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FAQs about "Polyps" 3
Related Articles: Blue, Pipe Organ Corals, Mat/Star
Polyps,
Related FAQs: Polyps 1, Polyps
2, Polyp Identification,
Polyp Behavior,
Polyp Compatibility,
Polyp Selection,
Polyp Systems,
Polyp Feeding, Polyp Disease,
Polyp Reproduction/Propagation,
A nice tall GSP colony in an aquarium... a good way to isolate.
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Brown Star polyp... English,
reading... 10/17/07
hi my green Starpolyp is doing great until today I saw a section
turning brown. All my water parameters are excellent. Is this brown
algae, and if so should I use a tooth brush to remove it. Or is it
dying?
<Uhh... a picture?>
Its been doing great so long and today this happens. This is a new
tank but I used water from the 2 year matured 140 gallon tank for
it. Its 12 gallons (nano cube)
Thanks for your help!
<... Water quality tests? Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Star Polyps and Possible Red Band Disease 9/19/06
Dear All - it's been a few months since I last wrote to your web
site, though I try to visit it every week or so. You (and some of
your books) provide excellent guidance. Alas, after I get that
monthly reminder from Uncle VISA, I wonder if my retirement plan
would benefit from failure.
<Ah, yes>
The following parameters usually apply:
salinity: 1.024
calcium: 380 - 410 ppm
alkalinity: btwn 9.2 and 12.8 dKH
pH: 8.0 (early morning - it seems to stay here no matter what I
attempted, and have decided not to bother with my pH level any more)
nitrites: 0 ppm
nitrates: 0 - 5 ppm
ammonia: < 0.25 ppm (I have difficulty distinguishing the 0 ppm
color even with fresh RO/DI water, though it's never quite reached
the 0.25 ppm)
0.5 - 0.6 mm daily dose with Kent iodine
<... I would only dose this once a week... with water changes
otherwise... unless you have a specific need, AND test for same>
temp: 78.5 F
4 maxi-jet powerheads for circulation (of which 3 operate at any one
time with timers)
one small hang-on refugium with 24-hour lights, Chaetomorpha algae,
and live sand
70 pounds live rock
12-gallon weekly water changes (one 2.25 gallon bucket Wednesday -
Sunday, with RO/DI water aerating Sunday - Wednesday) one canister
filter
A few months ago, I added some green star polyps (Pachyclavularia).
The polyps remained closed for several weeks
<A long time...>
after first entering the tank. One morning, I noted a few polyps on
the rock. Though they remain small - almost like the grass of the
putting field - the polyps appear healthy and spread on the entire
rock. The field started to expand.
<Oh yes>
They rest in the top third of my 54-gallon corner aquarium under 210
watts of pc daylight and 50/50 actinic lighting.
During Labor Day weekend, I experienced nearly simultaneous
canister filter and skimmer powerhead casualties. I replaced the
filter after one week, and fixed the powerhead (a small rock was
jammed in its impeller) after I noted no skimmate.
I wonder if this cause my current situation, which may be "red band
disease" as described in Borneman's Aquarium Corals. There is one
area (in which a hermit crab likes to rest) that has a red,
irregularly-shaped pattern. The surrounding area seems healthy.
However, the field also seems to have something similar to green
bubble algae connected with a light filament to the polyps.
<Necrosis/necrotic at any length...>
I thought it could be related to stress, though the local fish store
indicated it could be entrapped food or expelled waste. These items
do not appear all the time, and I do have some bubble algae in other
tank areas.
My questions:
a) Should I scrub the red area with a tooth brush or leave it alone?
<I'd do the latter>
b) Is dipping the rock in Kent's Tech-D Coral Dip & Conditioner for
5 minutes a worthwhile evolution?
<Not IMO>
c) Are these green "bubbles" related to the red spot on the coral
field?
<Yes, likely... opportunistic algae>
Are they an entirely different problem, or just a natural response
of the coral?
<Resultant from the death of same, space available>
d) Should I pick a different water-change regimen?
<Mmm, nope... but do cut the Iodine habit>
I had Chaetomorpha in my main tank and refugium, but found it too
difficult to keep clear of food. Whatever I gained in nutrient
export I seemed to lose in aesthetics and basic cleanliness.
It's difficult to get non-laminar flow on the rock, though I do
have a Hydor rotating nozzle on a Maxijet 1200 at the top of the
tank. The rock is not far from the skimmer-box inlet, and also sits
in the path of the refugium's output.
Thank you again for your help.
<Mmm... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clavulariids.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Star Polyps/Propagation/Control 7/11/06
How do I control this little bugger. It's taking over the whole left side of
my reef tank.
<Read here, Scott. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypreprofaqs.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Clavulariid polyps, reading 6/22/06
What's up guys long time no talk. any way tank set up is
55gal
50 lbs live rock
wet dry filter
4 95w VHO's (2 day light and 2 blue )
1 yellow tang
2 damsels
7 blue leg hermit crabs
protein skimmer rated for up to 65 gal
i
<I>
run carbon and phos-zorb
i add purple up once a day per the instructions
NH3 = 0
NO2 = 0
NO3 = 0
PH = 8.4
salt at 1.022
don't know my calcium (lost the instructions for test kit) ok my question is I
bought a LR with star polyps on it 5 days ago for
about 2 days they where nice and pretty and out and now they haven't been out
for the last 3 days I did a 20% water change before I bought
them and did another 20% yesterday. am I doing something wrong is this normal I
need help don't won't them to die they looked so good. Thanks
for any help you can give
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clavulariids.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Purple Clove Polyps - 03/25/2006
Hello, <Hello Michelle>
My husband and I have a Purple Clove Polyp and it seems to be dying. It was
doing really good, then all of a sudden the polyps closed and are now
brown. Can it be saved?? Also, I just today found a little animal (looks like
a slug), on it, but I do not know where it came from since we did not purchase
or put one in the tank. Could this be the polyps problem?? <Possibly, when in
doubt, remove the creature.> The fish store we got the polyp from said it does
not require feeding, is this the case? <They do produce most of their own food
through photosynthesis which leads to my question. Is your lighting sufficient
enough to maintain this coral? Your tank size isn't mentioned so I cannot
suggest the wattage required.> Or should we have been feeding this all along
and that is what is wrong? <A small weekly feeding of DT's plankton or similar
product helps growth some, but is not going to be the cause of life or
death. Maintaining high water quality will do much more for the corals than
supplemental feedings. Do search/read coral maintenance info on our
sight. James (Salty Dog)>
Please Help,
Michelle
Purple Clove Polyps what? 3/27/06
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. We have a 65 gallon tank with a
36" Outer Orbit 1x150W HQI-MH w/Actinic (Current) and it has one 150 watt
10,000k HQI metal halide lamp; two 96 watt Dual Actinic 460/420nm lamps; 4
Lunar Lights. I am positive that this is plenty of light. And I test the
water weekly and everything is right where it should be. I will do some more
research, but if you have anything that may help us let me know. <Should be
plenty
of light, at least in the center area assuming the tank is 48" long. Michelle,
read
here and the linked articles for more help. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/soft.htm>
Thanks again for getting back so quickly. <You're welcome, luck of the draw.
James (Salty Dog)>
Michelle
Starburst problems
I have a 2 year old tank
55 gallons, 190 watts of compact lights
20lb live sand 75lb live rock
ph 8.4
alk 3.2
sg 1.024
temp79
ammonia 0
calcium 400
about a month ago I did a large 70% water change after I treated a red slime
outbreak
I only use Wal-mart distilled water
<Man! I knew I should have bought their stock!>
with instant ocean mix for my changes, I
usually only do 10-15% water changes every month or two but decided I needed a
big one this time , due to all the dead red slime ,,,Cyano ,, I have
1 turbo snail
1 green brittle star
1 OC.. clown fish
my tree coral, mushrooms and pulsating xenia are doing well but my green star
polyps haven't came out in 2 weeks except for a few early in the am but then
disappear,
there is a lg amount of die off brown diatoms in the tank
what is wrong with my starburst, they where the fastest growing coral in my
tank?
thanks
<Very likely the post-Cyano let-down... the ill-effects of the massive die-off,
removal of the BGA... did you poison it with an antibiotic? At any length, these
polyps are TOUGH! And will very likely recover fully... within a few weeks. Bob
Fenner>
Feeding polyps, anemones, and clams
Hello, I just purchased 70 pounds of beautiful live Fiji rock. I placed it
in my uncycled aquarium to help it cycle. One rock is covered in green polyps
with orange centers, a vast number of them have turned white but there is a few
that have opened up. Will there be some die off then will they grow back? <<
Sounds like both. If they are turning white, I'm assuming they are
bleaching. Although polyps don't lose all their color when they
bleach. Anyway, with proper conditions they will of course grow back and
continue to spread. >> Also I have what looks like some sort of anemone. Its
about 2 inches wide, white with neon green tips, do you have any idea what kind
this could be? << No, lots of anemones out there. I'll say some sort of flower
anemone. >> I will have a digital camera within the week so I'll sends some
pictures. I have a few oysters or clams on the rock to what do I feed them? <<
Lots of phytoplankton. >> They open and close and spit of stuff so I know there
alive.
thanks a lot
<< Blundell >>
Pink star polyp
Cheers Crew!
I was reading the archives and came across a reply from Anthony about a
similar problem I am experiencing..
quote:
<many causes for extended polyp retraction on Star Polyp. Common causes,
lack of string random turbulent flow or too much linear flow, diatom algae
or like nuisance coating the stolon mat (scrub off with a toothbrush and
don't be shy about it), sudden change in light or salinity (bulb change,
carbon change after long period without which cause sudden increase in
water clarity in tank <yellow to clear water>, some say excess iodine
supplements, perching fishes (new Hawkfish to the tank or like species
without swim bladder, OK... now I'm stretching <VBG>. Water flow and
Lighting changes really are most common. Best regards, Anthony>
What I think happened to me was after a water change (and carbon change),
my star polyp's have been retracted
for about 3 days now, with a few of the fringe ones extending for any
length of time. What is the usual timeframe
for them to be retracted, as I'm starting to get a bit worried, but do not
want to do anything rash to try and "fix"
a normal event.
thanks!
Craig
>>The length of time of the retraction is variable - one time mine retracted for
two weeks! Don't worry yet!
Rich>>
Advancing Green Star Polyp
Greetings Crew! <Hi Ray, MacL here.>
I have a question regarding one of my reef tank inhabitants. I have a green
star polyp (Pachyclavularia sp?) that started out as a 1"x2" frag 8 months ago
and,
thanks to help from the crew, now totally covers a 6"x10" rock with a beautiful
mat of bright green polyps.
It has advanced in one direction partially covering another small rock (which
will be removed eventually to a friends tank and another rock put in it's place
to repeat the process...doing my small part to keep more coral in the wild).
The problem is the other side. The colony has somehow spanned a 3/4" gap
between rocks (I thought would stop it's advancement) and has climbed another
rock and is
advancing towards my Anthelia Polyp colony. The space between the two colonies
is now only 1/4". Moving the rock is not an option and I really want to keep
both colonies happy because they are both doing great and are very beautiful.
<In a battle I would think that the anthelia would win. Not what you wanted to
here huh? You might try putting a rock between the two for it to climb on.
Spread to as it were, similar to what you are doing on the other side. It will
also climb on PVC or rocks or even shells if you can find some flat ones for it
to climb up. And bizarre as it sounds I have friends who use a turkey baster to
blow theirs every day to stop the advance. It works for them. If more radical
methods are necessary, such as removing the rock or rocks on which the GSPs have
set up shop, or regularly excising them with a razor blade>
Any ideas on what to do? <Hope that helps Ray, MacL>
Thanks
-Ray
Advancing Green Star Polyp
Greetings Crew!
I have a question regarding one of my reef tank
inhabitants. I have a green star polyp (Pachyclavularia
sp?) that started out as a 1"x2" frag 8 months ago and,
thanks to help from the crew, now totally covers a
6"x10" rock with a beautiful mat of bright green polyps.
<Nice. It will advance quite quickly under the right conditions.>
It has advanced in one direction partially covering
another small rock (which will be removed eventually to
a friends tank and another rock put in it's place to
repeat the process...doing my small part to keep more
coral in the wild).
<Good for you. Every little bit helps!>
The problem is the other side. The colony has somehow
spanned a 3/4" gap between rocks (I thought would stop
it's advancement) and has climbed another rock and is
advancing towards my Anthelia Polyp colony. The space
between the two colonies is now only 1/4". Moving the
rock is not an option and I really want to keep both
colonies happy because they are both doing great and are
very beautiful.
Any ideas on what to do?
<I would try peeling it off by the mat. Fortunately GSPs come off pretty easily
this way. Do it out of the water, preferably. If this doesn't work, try using
a chisel to get under it and remove. These are pretty, but can turn into a real
pain when they spread. Hope this helps, Matt.>
Thanks
-Ray
Super Green Star Polyps!
Good Day -
<Hiay! Scott F. here today!>
OK - I've searched but cannot find the answer among your previously answered
questions so here goes; I have an established tank 2+ years and have had little
to no problems. It is a 45 tall (I know tall isn't the best but it's what I'm
stuck with) LR/LS set-up and I have it stocked mostly with octocorallians and
fish. I purchased some star polyps about a year ago and they are growing out of
control - stinging my Xenia and Colt corals to
death. Is there any way to stop/slow the growth of the Star polyps? I have tried
to redirect them only to have them grow over anything I put in their path and
onto the adjacent corals. I have tried to "peel" them off of the rock with no
success. They are a very bright green and look like moss or grass during the day
but they are growing out of control. If I leave it alone, they will eventually
cover everything in the tank. Any suggestions?
<This is a problem that many hobbyists would like to have! I have always liked
GSPs, but they can become a problem if left unchecked. I would have tried many
of the same tactics that you did. In particular, I like to "passively propagate"
actively growing corals like GSPs and Xenia by simply putting some rubble in the
"path" of the Star Polyps, letting them "overgrow" the rubble, then removing the
rubble and replacing it with a new piece or pieces (and, this will help you
supply our fellow hobbyists with their own GSP starter colonies!). If you are
impatient, then more radical methods are necessary, such as removing the rock or
rocks on which the GSPs have set up shop, or regularly excising them with a
razor blade (a tedious process, but seemingly the best way to go in your case).
You really might consider propagating this beautiful coral and supplying fellow
hobbyists and fish stores! When life gives you lemons, as they say....!>
Thank you.
J.T. Craddock
Candy Cane and Anthelia questions 8/1/04
Hello. I've spent many hours on your site and I must say it's a great
resource. <Great to hear!>
I have a question about a stony coral I have (candy cane). Last night I
put a flashlight on it and noticed that between the stony columns is
growing a yellow kind of "fuzz" or something. I am not sure if it is a
disease or algae or what. Otherwise the coral looks healthy. Inflated
during the day and tentacles out at night for feeding. You can only see
this stuff at night when it's slightly deflated. I have attached an
image so you can see what I
mean. We've had the coral for about 3 months now with no problems.
<This is nothing at all to worry about. It is an encrusting sponge and
a very common occurrence between the branches of stony corals.>
Several other corals in the tank are soft ones. This is the only hard
coral. The tank is a 45 gal less than 6 months old, all readings are
zero, calcium is at 440 and pH is at 8.2 (we originally started it from
cycled water from our aquarist friend back then). I reduced the picture
and have a larger one if needed.
On another note, the anthelia has been struggling for days. I suspect
it's the pH but I am not sure since it's not excessively low. Would it
help to raise it and by how much? Also, there is a "life-form" attached
near by and I wonder if this is affecting it. At first I thought it was
a new colony of anthelia but now I
wonder if it is an unrelated different coral. A picture of this is
attached as well. Thank you for your help. Daphne <A pH of 8.2 is
perfect. What about alkalinity? IMO, Alkalinity is probably the most
important parameter to test regularly in a reef tank. The coral in the
picture is actually Clavularia. There are several things growing within
and around it: Valonia (bubble algae), hair algae, some Caulerpa and
some kind of mushroom anemone. Any or all of these things could be
affecting the Clavularia. I would try to move the mushroom, test
alkalinity and correct with a good quality buffer if necessary and be
sure that you have plenty of water movement. This is a tough coral that
should recover easily under good conditions. Best Regards. AdamC.>
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Stony Coral and Anthelia part II 8/3/04
Hi, thanks for your response. I forgot to mention that I am seeing tiny
pinkish white creatures swimming between the corals and LR with a tail, kind of
like a tiny tadpole. Are these pods or some kind of shrimp? I assume they are a
kind of shrimp.. are they good or bad? <They sound like some kind of
larvae. Probably good. They don't do much, and probably won't survive, but
they are good food for your other critters.>
As for the "anthelia"- Clavularia and the mushroom thing, they came
encrusted on a piece of LR, I didn't actually purchase it. I got rid of the
Caulerpa and am working on getting rid of the other algae. The "mushroom" looks
securely attached to the LR. Will I damage it if I pull it off? At night it
shrinks to a very small size and I wonder if that's the best time to remove it
from there. <The mushroom can easily be removed by working a knife or
screwdriver under the edge, gently working it to scrape the mushroom off of the
rock. Don't worry too much about injuring it, they are pretty tough. You can
then drop it into a plastic cup with some rubble to re-attach to.>
Also, what does IMO stand for? <Ooops.. Sorry... In My Opinion.>
Thank you. <No worries! Adam>
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My green stars haven't opened in the last three days,
I have had then for over a year and have spread considerably since
I got them. It appears to have some white stuff growing between the purple
stalks as you can barely see in attached photos. << I would blow them off
with a powerhead, to clean them up. After that, I think as long as your
tank parameters haven't changed, I would just continue waiting. >> Please
let me know. Thanks Ronald << Sorry, Adam B. >> |
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-GSP's reaching for me!!!-
I have a large rock covered in green star polyps. They are opening fine and have been in my tank for about 6 months. The mat in several places is lifting upward about 1.5 inches. <Could be new growth?> I am not sure but I am afraid it is coming off of the rock. <If it does,
tying it down lightly with fishing line will do the trick.> I have a mixture of power compact and florescent lighting totaling 210 watts. I Regularly add calcium, iodine and
strontium. Is this anything to worry about and if so what can I do? <More than likely it's growing, and the new growth may be lifting off the rock to 'grab' onto another rock to further
propagate the colony. If I'm wrong then I'm not sure what's going on, but it's nothing that can't be fixed with a little fishing line. -Kevin> Thank you,
David Bradley
Tank size and water flow 3/28/04
Hi this is Jonathan I haven't emailed you for a while,
I have a few questions for ya . First I was wondering if you could tell me if a
Black spotted grouper and a Niger Triggerfish (both babies) if they could be
housed together.
<if the tank is large enough. And please do not add small fish to a small
tank thinking/hoping it will work out long term. They need appropriate sized
aquaria for good health and growth if not survival from the start. A 90 gallon
minimum here to begin with>
I was also wondering if you tell me your opinion on this matter that I have. I
have a Star Polyp coral that has not been coming out the past few
days (3-4). I can not figure what's the problem my water is completely normal
and I have the same kind of light that I have had the past 2 1/2 years a 50/50
ref and sun (put same light in just a new bulb, put it in about two
months ago) thanks for your help
<star polyps often respond to an increase in water flow... do so and wait
several days to see. Random turbulent flow is best (avoid direct laminar flow).
Anthony>
Help with Clove Polyp 3/25/04
Hi, I have a clove polyp rock that has what at first appeared to
be algae growing on it. Lately, in the last week it has not been
opening at all. My water quality dropped while I was in the hospital
with my son for about a month. I did a full change and continue to
keep it up. I have a before and after picture attached. Any
ideas? I would appreciate your advice.
<I would suggest that you simply continue paying attention to water quality
and water movement. Clavularia are remarkably hardy corals and should
come back nicely when conditions improve.>
Thanks, Patrick Phillips
<Glad to! Adam>
Sea mat article link/s
Mr. Fenner:
<Blane>
Thanks again for the opportunity, I'm
really looking forward to the publication.
<Me too>
I tried to keep the first piece a bit light
as to not overwhelmed anyone who
wants to take the first step.
<Agreed>
On a side note would I be able to
include links to my sites on the
articles? If you run the Zoanthus
piece I actually wanted to change
the link to my online store. When
I had written it the first time around
it was not complete so I just listed
thesea.org
<Yes. Please send a note along anytime re what link/s you want placed with
your work. Bob Fenner>
thanks again
Blane
Stinging Hydroids 1/23/04
Hello WWM Crew!
First of all I want to give your guys Props for your web site.
<thanks kindly... tell a friend <G>>
My Current system.
55gal with at least 50lbs + of live rock
40 breeder divided into 3 sections as sump/return/refugium.
new EV180 skimmer
new DIY calcium reactor
3 @4' standard 10K, actinic
PH 8.2
salinity 1.025
ammonia 0
nitrites 0
nitrates according to red sea's nitrate test kit is 2.5ppm. My
nitrates have never dropped below this value, however, they increased to 5ppm
once and with a water change, dropped back to 2.5ppm. I believe its
the test kit here.
<yes... although impurities from sea salts are not unheard of (including
ammonia)>
Maroon clown
Bubble tip, which I shocked over a year ago, causing it to turn white. It
is still hanging on, but is only the diameter of a 50 cent piece now.
2 yellow tail damsels
Feather Duster
Cleaner shrimp
Over the past 2 months, I have been doing a 10% water change weekly.
I'm having a problem with a green star polyp colony that I have had for about 6
months now. After about 3 months the polyps would not open except on
occasion. After 4 months the colony started to shrink in size.
<not for lack of feeding... this is one of the few corals that really does
not need to be fed much at all... just good lights (although your light
intensity is weak here and a problem if this coral is much below 8" from
the surface of the water).>
After 5 months, the purple mat started to change to a orange-ish mat. I
preformed a l=Lugol's dip as directed on the bottle and I have not really seen
any change in the polyps or mat.
<for weak polyp extension in Star Polyp (Briareum), it is very often
inappropriate water flow. Usually not enough (10-20X tank turnover at least)
although avoid laminar flow (blasting it with a power head). Mix it up
instead>
Yesterday I found a reference to Stinging Hydroids and I have identified about
10+ colonies in my tank. My tank initially was a FOWLR and these
colonies which were multiplying never alarmed me. They were a bonus. Is
it possible that these hydroids are releasing enough toxins into the water to
kill the Star Polyps?
<although the hydroids are aggressive and can be a problem... Star Polyp is
fiercely aggressive. More likely water flow here>
If so, what would you recommend as a means to remove them? If I scrub
them out with a small tooth brush, will that cause a flux of
additional toxins in the water?
<a tooth brush tied to and extended slightly forward of a running siphon tube
will allow you to scrub and slurp at the same time>
I'm now researching and building a 120aga, with 2 30 gal refugiums (one on each
side of the 120) , a 50 gallon underneath for a DSB and a sump for my skimmer
etc..., so please bear with me. I have spent so much time
researching new set-ups that I really have not had time to research ever aspect
of the star polyps, except that I probably will not put them in the new set-up,
I'm looking to do SPS, however I do not want to kill them. Eric Barlow
<do re-examine your lighting scheme mate. Any number of standard fluorescents
is still going to be weakly intense (not penetrating very deep into the tank).
Two 100-watt double-ended HQI halides would be a nice and gentle upgrade here.
Easy power use, not too bright, and good value/longevity. Best regards,
Anthony>
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