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FAQs about "Polyps" 3

Related Articles: Blue, Pipe Organ Corals, Mat/Star Polyps

Related FAQs: Polyps 1Polyps 2Polyp Identification, Polyp Behavior, Polyp Compatibility, Polyp Selection, Polyp Systems, Polyp Feeding, Polyp Disease, Polyp Reproduction/Propagation,

A nice tall GSP colony in an aquarium... a good way to isolate.

Green star polyps -- a cautionary tale 11/11/08 Hello, crew. With some help from you folks over the years, I now have a thriving 120 gal mixed reef tank. <Hello Dan! Glad to hear we've been of service to you!> I thought I would share a recent experience for the benefit of others.  List this under, "don't take anything in your aquarium for granted!"  Chemical warfare is abundant, and nothing is completely benign. <Very true, an often under appreciated fact.> The tank currently has an over-abundance of green star polyps. <Uh-oh...> What started as a three-inch patch less than a year ago has blossomed hugely, starting to run into other corals (a Montipora capricornus on one side, a Galaxea on the other). So, when cleaning the tank last weekend, I reached in and culled quite a bit of the star polyps. It came away quite easily, and I established a three- or four-inch buffer zone between the corals. All was well. <...> Then, the next day, I noticed my hands were itching. A lot. Within a day, I had developed a really nasty eczema, mostly on the fingers I used to pull the star polyps away from the rocks. It's taken some pretty heavy duty topical steroids, and a lot of discomfort, to get rid of this. <Indeed, allelopathic compounds can be very, very troublesome. You are fortunate not to have experienced systemic poisoning or shock. Glad to hear you are on the mend, though> I never had thought of star polyps as "noxious". They look like grass after all, and don't seem to sting anything. However, they are struggling for survival just like everything else in the tank, and they will defend themselves! <Indeed. One of the most noxious of creatures we keep in tanks, believe it or not.> I went out and bought some good nitrile gloves, and put them to good use in my latest water change. <An excellent decision. I am of the opinion that anyone who works on a marine aquarium should wear long gloves while doing so, to prevent exposure to pathogens and toxins/allergens> And yes, I do run carbon in the tank :) <Good...will protect things from each other, themselves> Take care, <You too. Don't lick any zoanthids> Dan <Benjamin>

Green star polyp Question - 11-11-08 Hello Crew! <Lovely afternoon? Mike here, enjoying a day of no classes> I'm back again, just can't leave you guys alone. <I get that a lot, especially from the ladies ;) > Hope my email find you all in good health. <Yep - definitely sore, though> I have a green star polyp in my 10G nano reef. I bought him about 7 month ago. He's in very good shape.  Not too long ago I noticed a small bump starts to grow on the top of the mat. Now the bump is just getting bigger.  Looks like a new colony starts to grow there, but I'm definitely not sure.  I attached a picture I took a few hours ago. Should I panic? Thanks in advance, <Your colony looks very pretty, and is possibly (probably) attempting to expand, from what I can see in the picture. Are a few close-ups possible?  Wouldn't worry at this point> Sonny <M. Maddox>

Brown Star polyp... English, reading...  10/17/07 hi my green Starpolyp is doing great until today I saw a section turning brown. All my water parameters are excellent. Is this brown algae, and if so should I use a tooth brush to remove it. Or is it dying? <Uhh... a picture?> Its been doing great so long and today this happens. This is a new tank but I used water from the 2 year matured 140 gallon tank for it. Its 12 gallons (nano cube) Thanks for your help! <... Water quality tests? Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypdisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Star Polyps and Possible Red Band Disease   9/19/06 Dear All - it's been a few months since I last wrote to your web site, though I try to visit it every week or so. You (and some of your books) provide excellent guidance. Alas, after I get that monthly reminder from Uncle VISA, I wonder if my retirement plan would benefit from failure. <Ah, yes> The following parameters usually apply: salinity: 1.024 calcium: 380 - 410 ppm alkalinity: btwn 9.2 and 12.8 dKH pH: 8.0 (early morning - it seems to stay here no matter what I attempted, and have decided not to bother with my pH level any more) nitrites: 0 ppm nitrates: 0 - 5 ppm ammonia: < 0.25 ppm (I have difficulty distinguishing the 0 ppm color even with fresh RO/DI water, though it's never quite reached the 0.25 ppm) 0.5 - 0.6 mm daily dose with Kent iodine <... I would only dose this once a week... with water changes otherwise... unless you have a specific need, AND test for same> temp: 78.5 F 4 maxi-jet powerheads for circulation (of which 3 operate at any one time with timers) one small hang-on refugium with 24-hour lights, Chaetomorpha algae, and live sand 70 pounds live rock 12-gallon weekly water changes (one 2.25 gallon bucket Wednesday - Sunday, with RO/DI water aerating Sunday - Wednesday) one canister filter A few months ago, I added some green star polyps (Pachyclavularia). The polyps remained closed for several weeks <A long time...> after first entering the tank. One morning, I noted a few polyps on the rock. Though they remain small - almost like the grass of the putting field - the polyps appear healthy and spread on the entire rock. The field started to expand. <Oh yes> They rest in the top third of my 54-gallon corner aquarium under 210 watts of pc daylight and 50/50 actinic lighting.   During Labor Day weekend, I experienced nearly simultaneous canister filter and skimmer powerhead casualties. I replaced the filter after one week, and fixed the powerhead (a small rock was jammed in its impeller) after I noted no skimmate. I wonder if this cause my current situation, which may be "red band disease" as described in Borneman's Aquarium Corals. There is one area (in which a hermit crab likes to rest) that has a red, irregularly-shaped pattern. The surrounding area seems healthy. However, the field also seems to have something similar to green bubble algae connected with a light filament to the polyps. <Necrosis/necrotic at any length...> I thought it could be related to stress, though the local fish store indicated it could be entrapped food or expelled waste. These items do not appear all the time, and I do have some bubble algae in other tank areas. My questions: a) Should I scrub the red area with a tooth brush or leave it alone? <I'd do the latter> b) Is dipping the rock in Kent's Tech-D Coral Dip & Conditioner for 5 minutes a worthwhile evolution? <Not IMO> c) Are these green "bubbles" related to the red spot on the coral field? <Yes, likely... opportunistic algae> Are they an entirely different problem, or just a natural response of the coral? <Resultant from the death of same, space available> d) Should I pick a different water-change regimen? <Mmm, nope... but do cut the Iodine habit> I had Chaetomorpha in my main tank and refugium, but found it too difficult to keep clear of food. Whatever I gained in nutrient export I seemed to lose in aesthetics and basic cleanliness.   It's difficult to get non-laminar flow on the rock, though I do have a Hydor rotating nozzle on a Maxijet 1200 at the top of the tank. The rock is not far from the skimmer-box inlet, and also sits in the path of the refugium's output. Thank you again for your help.   <Mmm... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clavulariids.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Star Polyps/Propagation/Control  7/11/06 How do I control this little bugger. It's taking over the whole left side of my reef tank. <Read here, Scott.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/polypreprofaqs.htm James (Salty Dog)>

Clavulariid polyps, reading   6/22/06 What's up guys long time no talk. any way tank set up is 55gal 50 lbs live rock wet dry filter 4 95w VHO's (2 day light and 2 blue ) 1 yellow tang 2 damsels 7 blue leg hermit crabs protein skimmer rated for up to 65 gal i <I> run carbon and phos-zorb i add purple up once a day per the instructions NH3 = 0 NO2 = 0 NO3 = 0 PH = 8.4 salt at 1.022 don't know my calcium (lost the instructions for test kit) ok my question is I bought a LR with star polyps on it 5 days ago for about 2 days they where nice and pretty and out and now they haven't been out for the last 3 days I did a 20% water change before I bought them and did another 20% yesterday. am I doing something wrong is this normal I need help don't won't them to die they looked so good. Thanks for any help you can give <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clavulariids.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Purple Clove Polyps  - 03/25/2006 Hello,  <Hello Michelle> My husband and I have a Purple Clove Polyp and it seems to be dying.  It was doing really good, then all of a sudden the polyps closed and are now brown.  Can it be saved??  Also,  I just today found a little animal (looks like a slug), on it, but I do not know where it came from since we did not purchase or put one in the tank.  Could this be the polyps problem?? <Possibly, when in doubt, remove the creature.>  The fish store we got the polyp from said it does not require feeding, is this the case?  <They do produce most of their own food through photosynthesis which leads to my question.  Is your lighting sufficient enough to maintain this coral?  Your tank size isn't mentioned so I cannot suggest the wattage required.>  Or should we have been feeding this all along and that is what is wrong?  <A small weekly feeding of DT's plankton or similar product helps growth some, but is not going to be the cause of life or death.  Maintaining high water quality will do much more for the corals than supplemental feedings.  Do search/read coral maintenance info on our sight.  James (Salty Dog)> Please Help, Michelle

Purple Clove Polyps what?   3/27/06 Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.  We have a 65 gallon tank with a 36" Outer Orbit 1x150W HQI-MH w/Actinic (Current) and it has one 150 watt 10,000k HQI metal halide lamp; two 96 watt Dual Actinic 460/420nm lamps; 4 Lunar Lights.  I am positive that this is plenty of light. And I test the water weekly and everything is right where it should be.  I will do some more research, but if you have anything that may help us let me know. <Should be plenty of light, at least in the center area assuming the tank is 48" long.  Michelle, read here and the linked articles for more help.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/soft.htm> Thanks again for getting back so quickly.  <You're welcome, luck of the draw. James (Salty Dog)> Michelle

Starburst problems I have a 2 year old tank 55 gallons, 190 watts of compact lights 20lb live sand 75lb live rock ph 8.4 alk 3.2 sg 1.024 temp79 ammonia 0 calcium 400 about a month ago I did a large 70% water change after I treated a red slime outbreak I only use Wal-mart distilled water <Man! I knew I should have bought their stock!> with instant ocean mix for my changes, I usually only do 10-15% water changes every month or two but decided I needed a big one this time , due to all the dead red slime ,,,Cyano ,,  I have 1 turbo snail 1 green brittle star 1 OC.. clown fish my tree coral, mushrooms and pulsating xenia are doing well but my green star polyps haven't came out in 2 weeks except for a few early in the am but then disappear, there is a lg amount of die off brown diatoms in the tank what is wrong with my starburst, they where the fastest growing coral in my tank? thanks <Very likely the post-Cyano let-down... the ill-effects of the massive die-off, removal of the BGA... did you poison it with an antibiotic? At any length, these polyps are TOUGH! And will very likely recover fully... within a few weeks. Bob Fenner> Feeding polyps, anemones, and clams Hello, I just purchased 70 pounds of beautiful live Fiji rock. I placed it in my uncycled aquarium to help it cycle. One rock is covered in green polyps with orange centers, a vast number of them have turned white but there is a few that have opened up. Will there be some die off then will they grow back? << Sounds like both.  If they are turning white, I'm assuming they are bleaching.  Although polyps don't lose all their color when they bleach.  Anyway, with proper conditions they will of course grow back and continue to spread. >> Also I have what looks like some sort of anemone. Its about 2 inches wide, white with neon green tips, do you have any idea what kind this could be? << No, lots of anemones out there.  I'll say some sort of flower anemone. >> I will have a digital camera within the week so I'll sends some pictures. I have a few oysters or clams on the rock to what do I feed them? << Lots of phytoplankton. >> They open and close and spit of stuff so I know there alive. thanks a lot <<  Blundell  >>

Pink star polyp Cheers Crew! I was reading the archives and came across a reply from Anthony about a similar problem I am experiencing.. quote: <many causes for extended polyp retraction on Star Polyp. Common causes, lack of string random turbulent flow or too much linear flow, diatom algae or like nuisance coating the stolon mat (scrub off with a toothbrush and don't be shy about it), sudden change in light or salinity (bulb change, carbon change after long period without which cause sudden increase in water clarity in tank <yellow to clear water>, some say excess iodine supplements, perching fishes (new Hawkfish to the tank or like species without swim bladder, OK... now I'm stretching <VBG>. Water flow and Lighting changes really are most common. Best regards, Anthony> What I think happened to me was after a water change (and carbon change), my star polyp's have been retracted for about 3 days now, with a few of the fringe ones extending for any length of time.  What is the usual timeframe for them to be retracted, as I'm starting to get a bit worried, but do not want to do anything rash to try and "fix" a normal event. thanks! Craig >>The length of time of the retraction is variable - one time mine retracted for two weeks! Don't worry yet! Rich>> Advancing Green Star Polyp Greetings Crew! <Hi Ray, MacL here.> I have a question regarding one of my reef tank inhabitants.  I have a green star polyp (Pachyclavularia sp?) that started out as a 1"x2" frag 8 months ago and, thanks to help from the crew, now totally covers a 6"x10" rock with a beautiful mat of bright green polyps.    It has advanced in one direction partially covering another small rock (which will be removed eventually to a friends tank and another rock put in it's place to repeat the process...doing my small part to keep more coral in the wild). The problem is the other side.  The colony has somehow spanned a 3/4" gap between rocks (I thought would stop it's advancement) and has climbed another rock and is advancing towards my Anthelia Polyp colony.  The space between the two colonies is now only 1/4".  Moving the rock is not an option and I really want to keep both colonies happy because they are both doing great and are very beautiful. <In a battle I would think that the anthelia would win. Not what you wanted to here huh? You might try putting a rock between the two for it to climb on. Spread to as it were, similar to what you are doing on the other side. It will also climb on PVC or rocks or even shells if you can find some flat ones for it to climb up. And bizarre as it sounds I have friends who use a turkey baster to blow theirs every day to stop the advance. It works for them.  If  more radical methods are necessary, such as removing the rock or rocks on which the GSPs have set up shop, or regularly excising them with a razor blade> Any ideas on what to do? <Hope that helps Ray, MacL> Thanks -Ray Advancing Green Star Polyp Greetings Crew! I have a question regarding one of my reef tank inhabitants.  I have a green star polyp (Pachyclavularia sp?) that started out as a 1"x2" frag 8 months ago and, thanks to help from the crew, now totally covers a 6"x10" rock with a beautiful mat of bright green polyps. <Nice.  It will advance quite quickly under the right conditions.>   It has advanced in one direction partially covering another small rock (which will be removed eventually to a friends tank and another rock put in it's place to repeat the process...doing my small part to keep more coral in the wild). <Good for you.  Every little bit helps!> The problem is the other side.  The colony has somehow spanned a 3/4" gap between rocks (I thought would stop it's advancement) and has climbed another rock and is advancing towards my Anthelia Polyp colony.  The space between the two colonies is now only 1/4".  Moving the rock is not an option and I really want to keep both colonies happy because they are both doing great and are very beautiful. Any ideas on what to do? <I would try peeling it off by the mat.  Fortunately GSPs come off pretty easily this way.  Do it out of the water, preferably.  If this doesn't work, try using a chisel to get under it and remove.  These are pretty, but can turn into a real pain when they spread.  Hope this helps, Matt.> Thanks -Ray

Super Green Star Polyps! Good Day - <Hiay! Scott F. here today!> OK - I've searched but cannot find the answer among your previously answered questions so here goes; I have an established tank 2+ years and have had little to no problems. It is a 45 tall (I know tall isn't the best but it's what I'm stuck with) LR/LS set-up and I have it stocked mostly with octocorallians and fish. I purchased some star polyps about a year ago and they are growing out of control - stinging my Xenia and Colt corals to death. Is there any way to stop/slow the growth of the Star polyps? I have tried to redirect them only to have them grow over anything I put in their path and onto the adjacent corals. I have tried to "peel" them off of the rock with no success. They are a very bright green and look like moss or grass during the day but they are growing out of control. If I leave it alone, they will eventually cover everything in the tank. Any suggestions? <This is a problem that many hobbyists would like to have! I have always liked GSPs, but they can become a problem if left unchecked. I would have tried many of the same tactics that you did. In particular, I like to "passively propagate" actively growing corals like GSPs and Xenia by simply putting some rubble in the "path" of the Star Polyps, letting them "overgrow" the rubble, then removing the rubble and replacing it with a new piece or pieces (and, this will help you supply our fellow hobbyists with their own GSP starter colonies!). If you are impatient, then more radical methods are necessary, such as removing the rock or rocks on which the GSPs have set up shop, or regularly excising them with a razor blade (a tedious process, but seemingly the best way to go in your case). You really might consider propagating this beautiful coral and supplying fellow hobbyists and fish stores! When life gives you lemons, as they say....!> Thank you.
J.T. Craddock

Candy Cane and Anthelia questions 8/1/04 Hello. I've spent many hours on your site and I must say it's a great resource. <Great to hear!> I have a question about a stony coral I have (candy cane). Last night I put a flashlight on it and noticed that between the stony columns is growing a yellow kind of "fuzz" or something. I am not sure if it is a disease or algae or what. Otherwise the coral looks healthy. Inflated during the day and tentacles out at night for feeding. You can only see this stuff at night when it's slightly deflated. I have attached an image so you can see what I mean.  We've had the coral for about 3 months now with no problems. <This is nothing at all to worry about.  It is an encrusting sponge and a very common occurrence between the branches of stony corals.> Several other corals in the tank are soft ones. This is the only hard coral. The tank is a 45 gal less than 6 months old, all readings are zero, calcium is at 440 and pH is at 8.2 (we originally started it from cycled water from our aquarist friend back then). I reduced the picture and have a larger one if needed. On another note, the anthelia has been struggling for days. I suspect it's the pH but I am not sure since it's not excessively low. Would it help to raise it and by how much? Also, there is a "life-form" attached near by and I wonder if this is affecting it. At first I thought it was a new colony of anthelia but now I wonder if it is an unrelated different coral. A picture of this is attached as well. Thank you for your help. Daphne  <A pH of 8.2 is perfect.  What about alkalinity?  IMO, Alkalinity is probably the most important parameter to test regularly in a reef tank.  The coral in the picture is actually Clavularia.  There are several things growing within and around it:  Valonia (bubble algae), hair algae, some Caulerpa and some kind of mushroom anemone.  Any or all of these things could be affecting the Clavularia.  I would try to move the mushroom, test alkalinity and correct with a good quality buffer if necessary and be sure that you have plenty of water movement.  This is a tough coral that should recover easily under good conditions.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>
Stony Coral and Anthelia part II  8/3/04 Hi, thanks for your response. I forgot to mention that I am seeing tiny pinkish white creatures swimming between the corals and LR with a tail, kind of like a tiny tadpole. Are these pods or some kind of shrimp? I assume they are a kind of shrimp.. are they good or bad? <They sound like some kind of larvae.  Probably good.  They don't do much, and probably won't survive, but they are good food for your other critters.> As for the "anthelia"- Clavularia and the mushroom thing, they came encrusted on a piece of LR, I didn't actually purchase it. I got rid of the Caulerpa and am working on getting rid of the other algae. The "mushroom" looks securely attached to the LR. Will I damage it if I pull it off? At night it shrinks to a very small size and I wonder if that's the best time to remove it from there. <The mushroom can easily be removed by working a knife or screwdriver under the edge, gently working it to scrape the mushroom off of the rock.  Don't worry too much about injuring it, they are pretty tough.  You can then drop it into a plastic cup with some rubble to re-attach to.> Also, what does IMO stand for? <Ooops..  Sorry...  In My Opinion.> Thank you. <No worries!  Adam>

My green stars haven't opened in the last three days,  I have had then for over a year and have spread considerably since I got them. It appears to have some white stuff growing between the purple stalks as you can barely see in attached photos. << I would blow them off with a powerhead, to clean them up.  After that, I think as long as your tank parameters haven't changed, I would just continue waiting. >> Please let me know. Thanks Ronald << Sorry, Adam B. >>

-GSP's reaching for me!!!- I have a large rock covered in green star polyps. They are opening fine and have been in my tank for about 6 months. The mat in several places is lifting upward about 1.5 inches. <Could be new growth?> I am not sure but I am afraid it is coming off of the rock. <If it does, tying it down lightly with fishing line will do the trick.> I have a mixture of power compact and florescent lighting totaling 210 watts. I Regularly add calcium, iodine and strontium. Is this anything to worry about and if so what can I do? <More than likely it's growing, and the new growth may be lifting off the rock to 'grab' onto another rock to further propagate the colony. If I'm wrong then I'm not sure what's going on, but it's nothing that can't be fixed with a little fishing line. -Kevin> Thank you, David Bradley 

Tank size and water flow 3/28/04 Hi this is Jonathan I haven't emailed you for a while, I have a few questions for ya . First I was wondering if you could tell me if a Black spotted grouper and a Niger Triggerfish (both babies) if they could be housed together. <if the tank is large enough. And please do not add small fish to a small tank thinking/hoping it will work out long term. They need appropriate sized aquaria for good health and growth if not survival from the start. A 90 gallon minimum here to begin with> I was also wondering if you tell me your opinion on this matter that I have. I have a Star Polyp coral that has not been  coming out the past few days (3-4). I can not figure what's the problem my water is completely normal and I have the same kind of light that I have had the past 2 1/2 years a 50/50 ref and sun (put same light in just a new bulb, put it in about  two months ago) thanks for your help    <star polyps often respond to an increase in water flow... do so and wait several days to see. Random turbulent flow is best (avoid direct laminar flow). Anthony> Help with Clove Polyp 3/25/04 Hi,  I have a clove polyp rock that has what at first appeared to be algae growing on it.  Lately, in the last week it has not been opening at all.  My water quality dropped while I was in the hospital with my son for about a month.  I did a full change and continue to keep it up.  I have a before and after picture attached.  Any ideas?  I would appreciate your advice. <I would suggest that you simply continue paying attention to water quality and water movement.  Clavularia are remarkably hardy corals and should come back nicely when conditions improve.> Thanks,  Patrick Phillips <Glad to! Adam>

Sea mat article link/s Mr. Fenner: <Blane> Thanks again for the opportunity, I'm really looking forward to the publication. <Me too> I tried to keep the first piece a bit light as to not overwhelmed anyone who wants to take the first step. <Agreed> On a side note would I be able to include links to my sites on the articles? If you run the Zoanthus piece I actually wanted to change the link to my online store. When I had written it the first time around it was not complete so I just listed thesea.org <Yes. Please send a note along anytime re what link/s you want placed with your work. Bob Fenner> thanks again Blane

Stinging Hydroids 1/23/04 Hello WWM Crew! First of all I want to give your guys Props for your web site. <thanks kindly... tell a friend <G>> My Current system. 55gal with at least 50lbs + of live rock 40 breeder divided into 3 sections as sump/return/refugium. new EV180 skimmer new DIY calcium reactor 3 @4' standard 10K, actinic PH 8.2 salinity 1.025 ammonia 0 nitrites 0 nitrates according to red sea's nitrate test kit is 2.5ppm.  My nitrates have never dropped below this value, however, they increased to 5ppm once and with a water change, dropped back to 2.5ppm.  I believe its the test kit here. <yes... although impurities from sea salts are not unheard of (including ammonia)> Maroon clown Bubble tip, which I shocked over a year ago, causing it to turn white.  It is still hanging on, but is only the diameter of a 50 cent piece now. 2 yellow tail damsels Feather Duster Cleaner shrimp Over the past 2 months, I have been doing a 10% water change weekly.   I'm having a problem with a green star polyp colony that I have had for about 6 months now.  After about 3 months the polyps would not open except on occasion. After 4 months the colony started to shrink in size. <not for lack of feeding... this is one of the few corals that really does not need to be fed much at all... just good lights (although your light intensity is weak here and a problem if this coral is much below 8" from the surface of the water).> After 5 months, the purple mat started to change to a orange-ish mat.  I preformed a l=Lugol's dip as directed on the bottle and I have not really seen any change in the polyps or mat. <for weak polyp extension in Star Polyp (Briareum), it is very often inappropriate water flow. Usually not enough (10-20X tank turnover at least) although avoid laminar flow (blasting it with a power head). Mix it up instead> Yesterday I found a reference to Stinging Hydroids and I have identified about 10+ colonies in my tank.  My tank initially was a FOWLR and these colonies which were multiplying never alarmed me.  They were a bonus.   Is it possible that these hydroids are releasing enough toxins into the water to kill the Star Polyps? <although the hydroids are aggressive and can be a problem... Star Polyp is fiercely aggressive. More likely water flow here> If so, what would you recommend as a means to remove them?  If I scrub them out with a small tooth brush,  will that cause a flux of additional toxins in the water? <a tooth brush tied to and extended slightly forward of a running siphon tube will allow you to scrub and slurp at the same time> I'm now researching and building a 120aga, with 2 30 gal refugiums (one on each side of the 120) , a 50 gallon underneath for a DSB and a sump for my skimmer etc..., so please bear with me.   I have spent so much time researching new set-ups that I really have not had time to research ever aspect of the star polyps, except that I probably will not put them in the new set-up, I'm looking to do SPS, however I do not want to kill them. Eric Barlow

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