Questions and Queries... Goniopora... fdg., much more that's already on WWM to be read  – 1/2/08
Hello Again WetWeb, it's me again (Matt),
As always, I enjoy reading over all of your articles and find them very useful and informative. I have a new set of questions I am hoping you can shed some light on and answer!
<Ok!>
I have acquired a very beautiful Goniopora sp., green flower pot coral (yes, gasp). I was a gift from and I had (nor did she) no idea it was a difficult specimen to keep alive.
<Read on...>
It is beginning to perish it was given to me as one piece, fully covered with polyps and I am starting to see the white skeleton underneath in some areas.) I have moved it to my refugium, per the advice I read on here as well as putting it directly on the sandbed.
<Needs to have individual polyps fed...>
There is only a snail or two in the refugium with it. I am trying to understand what exactly to feed it... sites say phytoplankton,
<... no>
some Cyclopeeze, some brine shrimp. Well, I have tried all 3 and then some. Any ideas or thoughts?
<Yes... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/poritidfdgfaqs.htm
and the linked files above>
Also, it is close to the top of the aquarium with a moderate flow of water from the small pump pushing water into the refug.
Oh, just for reference...I have a 22 month old, 24G nano reef. I believe it to be well maintained. Water changes with Nutri-water every 14 days, an abundance of coralline algae growing, no hair algae. Steady water temp of 78 degrees. Readings on Nitrates, Nitrites, PH, Calcium all with in range and have been consistent for a long time. I have had a pair of True Perculas, a brittle star, sea star, cleaner shrimp & beautiful magenta Dottyback for almost 20 months as well. I also have hermits, snails, a limpet (that is what you suggested it was and from my research, it is. It just says on one rock & moves in a circle) and a few mini-starfish. I also have a leather coral, almost 18 months, and tree corals which have split twice!! They are doing great.
<Are likely poisoning the Poritid...>
I have had mushrooms and green polyps perish and I thought they were relatively easy to maintain!
<Ditto... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files...>
Sorry I am jumping around...can you give me some suggestions for what corals WOULD work in a nano tank? I am guessing not too many from my research. Is it because of the lights?
<Keep reading...>
Also, I would like to test for magnesium, iodine and alkalinity....what reading should I be seeing for my tank?
<Reading...>
More...
My sand bed...can I change it out? Remove some and add more? Or is it fine to leave it? It is about 2 inches in most areas.
I have attached a picture...I cannot identify the little black ball guy in the middle of the LR, I hope you can see it. It opens regular and sort of has the color of a porcelain crab the wavy black look of their claws). It appeared pretty suddenly ( or perhaps I did not see it right away). It does not move...thought you might have a clue.
Thanks so much for your "ear" and help! I always appreciate it!
Matt
<Please learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM... Your answers and much more ancillary info. are posted/archived. Bob Fenner>

Goniopora...   8/4/07
hello,
Today I just got a flower pot coral and my question where to place it. Now I have it on a piece of live rock and seems to do good had it for only half a day, should I keep in there or place it in the sand instead? thank you so much for you help.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/poritidae.htm
The linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Something good from an LFS for once, Goniopora hlth., WWM Plug 1/29/07
Hello Bob,
My name is Brandon as my e-mail address might have indicated.  
<Hello Brandon, Mich with you today, Hehe...though my email would indicate otherwise.>
I was in conversation with you and the other guys at WetWebMedia at one point trying to figure out how I was going to raise Centropyge Angel Fish.  I finally did figure out that the reason that the fry don't survive has to do with a lack of Omega 3 Fatty Acids.  I am thinking that a diet very similar to what one would feed Goniopora might help, or at least give one a better chance of success.  At any rate I have not been able to get any success as of late.  I will let you guys know if I manage to make this happen though.  
<I believe there has been some success breeding these in Hawaii.  It may warrant further research on your part.>
At any rate the reason that I am writing is because I wanted you guys to know that you are having an impact, I am sure that you know this already, but praise is good when it is deserved.  So without further adieu, on to the story.
<Always good to hear/feel one has made a difference.>
I was at my LFS today talking with a good friend that works there about the dreaded Sebae Anemone. Yes, I have read everything that I can at your site about them.  I bought it at my friend's store while he was not there.  So his first question was, "What color is the anemone?"  I told him that it was a tan color.  (I would not have bought it otherwise.)  He said well, don't light shock it and feed it every three days, and you will be fine.  He further went on to say that if it was white that it was dying.  I told him that I had read up on them at your site, and this is the same information that you guys had given me.  I mentioned you and Anthony, and I just wanted you guys to know that he (a fish store employee) said that you guys were "god" as far as the saltwater aquarium is concerned.  
<I assure you all here are mortal, complete with flaws and imperfections.>
I would like to thank you all for giving me the information that I need to run a 55g salt 100g salt and 65g fresh with more coral, plants, Sailfins, coral beauties, shrimp, anemones, and discus than you can shake a stick at.  
<Thank yourself, you are the one doing the work and researching the information.>
I thought that it would make you proud to know that a LFS is finally quoting you guys.
<Hehee!>
Also I have been able to keep Goniopora thanks to your site and http://www.gonipora.org.  You all are doing a great service to your partners in this hobby and my only hope is that I can control my impatience, and contribute something great myself.  
<You can with time and dedication.>
I will report my findings on the Goniopora after it has made it past one and a half years in my tank.  
<Please do.>
Again I thank you for all that you and the group at WetWebMedia have done.
<Thank you for your most kind words!  -Mich>
Brandon Foster

Porites lobata?/Coralline Algae Growth - 02/20/06
Hello again and thanks for answering all the questions that keep me up at night!
<<Hee!>>
About 3 months ago I decided it was time to move from the land to the ocean and set up a 20 gal saltwater tank.  Yes, the tank is entirely too small although I have not had any problems with it so far, but perhaps that is just a result of caring for it like a bear protects their young...
<<Indeed>>
Now to the question(s) at hand.  After setting everything up in my tank and letting it run for a few days, I went to one of my LFS's and purchased 13lbs of live rock.  Upon bringing it home and examining it, I discovered a growth on the bottom half that appeared to either be a sponge or some kind of coral.
<<One of the great things about live rock.>>
After searching through Google as well as WWM I gave up on identifying it and forgot about it.  Now I have decided upon further review that what I am looking at is some form of Porites coral, I'm leaning towards Porites lobata as this seems to be the closest to what I have.
<<Ok...quite possible.>>
My question is what kind of conditions (lighting, water flow, etc.) are needed to make this coral thrive?
<<'Moderately high' to 'high' light and flow.>>
Currently there are a few polyps open, but it seems to be the ones slightly under the edges of the rock that are open, while the ones exposed directly are closed.
<<Strange...for Porites...is a light loving coral.>>
I thought about flipping the rock over so the coral was at the top nearest the light and in the heavier flow of water, but all the coralline algae would be buried, not to mention a complete remodel of the aquascaping.
<<Mmm, this indicates to me the rock is indeed "upside down" at this moment.  Most coralline algae is found on the sides/underside of rocks exposed to high light levels.  If this specimen is Porites, then I suspect this to be the case here.>>
Any suggestions on care would be greatly appreciated.
<<Do have a read here, and follow the indices in blue at the top of the page:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/porites.htm >>
On the topic of coralline algae, what can I do to encourage its growth?  I've read that it can take up to six months to see new growth, however 2 months ago I added some coral skeleton rocks and am beginning to see little bright green specks pop up all over them.
<<Maintain proper levels/balances of calcium/alkalinity/magnesium (all found with a search of our site).  Some folks have reported good/accelerated growth using Seachem's Reef Calcium (a polygluconate complexed calcium).>>
Lastly, I am currently running a powerfilter as my means of mechanical filtration and have a question about oxygen levels. Currently, the tank is filled to about 1 inch from the top so that the water spilling from the filter produces bubbles to get air into the water.  This was fine, but now I have decided that the micro bubbles as well as splashing sound are a nuisance and was wondering if their would be enough oxygen in the tank water if I raised the level of water so it met the spill-way, thereby eliminating the splashing.  Any advice in this matter?
<<As long as you have sufficient water flow (10x tank volume, can be supplemented with a small powerhead), likely so.>>
I currently do not have a protein skimmer (blasphemy, I know), but I currently have no room for a sump and can't afford a good hang on back style skimmer.  Not to worry, upgrading to either a 40, 55, or dare I say a 75 gallon (if only my girl friend would allow it...) soon.
<<Hmm...perhaps time to upgrade the girl friend...<G>.>>
Thanks for all your help.
Joel F.
<<Regards, EricR>>

Porites Coral Concern (2/4/05)
Hi. <Hello. Steve Allen with you tonight.> I recently purchased a Christmas rock <Porites lobata coral> with a lot of worms on it. <Cool> A few weeks ago I noticed a type of tan covering with lots of tiny pale green dots on a section of the rock, and recently I've noticed that the covering has extended to about half the rock. What is this covering and will it harm the worms? <If the Porites dies, the worms usually do too eventually.>
When I first bought the rock there were a lot of holes that had long very thin worms sticking out of them <probably spaghetti or peanut worms>, but it seems like the covering is going on top of some of those holes. Someone suggested that the coral may have been half dead when I bought it, but that now it's coming back to life, but that sounds a little strange to me. <More likely the coral is shedding (OK) dying, or has some sort of coral disease. Porites requires a lot of light and high flow. I's suggest studying the needs of this coral and working to adjust accordingly. It is actually rather resilient and can com back from near-death if properly nurtured.> Thanks, Kim <Hope this helps.>

Flowerpot corals
Thank you for your advice.  I completely disagree with you on  flowerpot
corals.  I know Bob Fenner holds the same opinion.  It was  the first coral I
purchased, and until I added my more powerful lights,  it  was thriving; it is
halfway out while adjusting to the new lights.  It is a  sensitive coral, and has
alerted me to problems in the water.  The  flowerpot and green star corals
have both survived my disastrous first attempt  at reefkeeping.  It is not
slowly dying, it has grown since I acquired it  over 8 months ago, even with
inadequate light and mediocre water chemistry.  PLEASE reconsider your view on
flowerpot corals, they are beautiful. << Oh they are beautiful, but I really do think you are in the minority here.  Just about every large site (ReefCentral and Reefs.org) have many many horror stories of these corals.  In fact in Borneman's book Corals he states "Goniopora have a long history of failing to survive in the aquarium, often going into a slow demise for no apparent reason." He then goes on to say "Goniopora frequently thrive for up to a year or more before declining".  You may be having good luck with yours, but I would still not recommend them to anyone. >>
James
<<Blundell >>

Re: new corals affecting old ones?-
Thank you for your advice.  I completely disagree with you on  flowerpot
corals.  I know Bob Fenner holds the same opinion.  It was  the first coral I
purchased, and until I added my more powerful lights,  it  was thriving; it is
halfway out while adjusting to the new lights.  It is a  sensitive coral, and has
alerted me to problems in the water.  The  flowerpot and green star corals
have both survived my disastrous first attempt  at reefkeeping.  It is not
slowly dying, it has grown since I acquired it  over 8 months ago, even with
inadequate light and mediocre water chemistry.  PLEASE reconsider your view on
flowerpot corals, they are beautiful.
James
<Do agree that these Poritids are gorgeous, and will have AdamB respond as well, but I assure you, after nearly four decades in the trade, this genus is a solid LOSER... the vast majority die within a few weeks of collection. Am glad yours is doing well... and will relate that the Goniopora that I've seen around the world do best in what folks consider "filthy" water conditions in captivity... the bottom of sediment, nutrient laden systems. Bob Fenner>

Another Goniopora... sigh :( 10/9/04
Hey there, I have a quick question about a Goniopora.  I just purchased one about a week ago, and am enjoying its appearance in the tank.  
<sigh...>
I was reluctant to get one for awhile (for known reasons..) but I'm deciding to try to test fate and keep it alive as long as I can, though I have learned that its death is seemingly definite!  
<it is beyond my grasp why informed aquarists still attempt to keep these corals casually (versus mature, deliberate species-specific displays at least). My harshest opinion is that it is disrespectful to life. My kindest opinion is that it is a flippant approach to aquarium keeping when so many other hardy and beautiful corals can be had instead>
I am noticing today within 4 or so hours its body has bloated up a lot, and then it had calmed down and appears to be doing well.  
<it was "doing well" when it was bloated too... it is an attempt at feeding. A strategy to increase its (mucus) covered surface area and trap nanoplankton, bacteria and other prey>
I have searched the internet for "bloated Goniopora" but can't find any explanation, so I figured I have learned so much from your website, I would give it a try and see if you had any ideas on this. Thanks for any and all help. Jeremy
<no worries on this count, a normal behavior again. Please do ponder future purchases seriously as a conscientious aquarist. Anthony>

Look before you leap, please! Goniopora 10/6/04
Hi, a couple of days ago I bought a Goniopora,
<oh, no!>
yep I know they could be a challenge but Anthony says in his BOCP1: "Goniopora are kept for years and even propagated in captivity by aquarist willing to look beyond the stigma and dark reputation" so, I want to look beyond the stigma! :)
<Carlos, my friend... it is not fair to me (the excerpt) or fair to yourself... and especially not fait to the animal you just bought. You clearly do not have the set up I recommended for keeping this coral (p. 246 - 600+lbs of aragonite in the refugium display with mature/established Seagrass [providing epiphytic matter). On those same two pages of BOCP1... the same two paragraphs even re: this genus, the coverage says "responsible aquarists will leave Goniopora to the most experienced individuals until more information about captive husbandry requirements can be determined." and "Goniopora species, as a rule, are best left tot he most experienced aquarists." Now I realize that you have said you more or less want to do what it takes to keep this coral. But your actions speak differently. I don't believe you have a mature sandbed and lagoonal biotope display. I fear that this is a mixed coral reef display with other species and genera of coral. I don't think you can describe what this coral actually eats ( and I will tell you that studies report that at best only 78% of this corals daily nutrition is derived from zooxanthellate symbiosis... 22% or more must come from alternate feeding everyday or your coral will slowly starve to death as most all do in captivity. Sigh... I know that you mean well my friend. But you have been impatient. And you are not prepared. Please tell me I'm wrong and that your tank is a species tank set up and mature/waiting just for this species of coral?>
The first step (quoted from his book) is the correct identification of my specimen, I try to look into the internet, and probably my decision would be G. stokesii.  Please, I'm attaching you a photo so, if you can help my in the correct identification I will appreciate it! Regards. Carlos Díaz (Guatemala, Central America)
<the pictures are not clear enough, but it does resemble G. stokesii. And yet, you bought the coral without even a clear identification. I do wish you well, Carlos. But I am disappointed to be honest. If it helps you for perspective (and you could have asked this and got this answer before you bought your coral)... my successful display (resembling others) was a 240 gallon Seagrass tank with over 6" (15cm) of deep fine sand... established for over 2 yrs before it was given to the Goniopora colony. Prior to the Goniopora there were small Acroporid frags in the tank, but they were pulled and the tank was a fishless refugium the entire time with a remarkable plankton population. FWIW. Best regards, Anthony>

Responsible use of resources: Goniopora 10/11/04
First, thank you very much for the help.  
<always welcome my friend>
My friend (who has helped me through the last year of working reef tanks) has had a Goniopora well and flourishing for over two years.  Is it really just chance? or could it be
careful attention to needs?  I'm skeptical of the "definite death" because his has done so well. JG
<please consider if you might not be rationalizing the purchase in all fairness. No one says that Goniopora have a 100% mortality rate. Some people have had good fortune like your friend. But 2 years is several decades short still of a natural lifespan. And his expedience is by far the exception and not the rule. If you/we are to be conscientious aquarists, we must make choices that serve the greater good of/for all... and in this case, the keeping of Goniopora speaks to responsible use of resources. Do you have any concept of how many Goniopora die before reaching the US mainland? And how many die by the time they travel another week or two through the chain of custody upon import to finally reach a retailer? I do, mate. I've been a wholesaler and a retailer for over ten years. And I can assure that many dozens (perhaps over 100) specimens die within six months of collection for every one that lives longer than that. Your friend's success is a fluke. I'm glad to hear it, but I could not in good faith encourage others to keep this coral casually when so many have to die to get one healthy one at a merchants display for you. Please reconsider... or at least do it right with a 1+ year established species tank (DSB, Seagrass refugium, etc.) waiting for it before you take on a live specimen. Anthony> 

Purple band disease Porites 10/2/04
Dear WetWebMedia Crew: Is there anything that can be done for a Porites with purple band disease? The reading I've done only says stress or injury can cause it and that it is common in Porites.......no mention of what to do for the coral once it gets the disease or whether or not it can spread to other corals.  Both I and the local fish store owner here are anxious to learn more about this disease........any help you can give is much appreciated. Janey
<I am not aware of any definitive treatment... but folks have tried with variable success a number of standard treatments. I feel that some can help. Starting with isolation in a bare bottomed QT tank... the application of ozone via a controller (target a conservative 350-400 mV). Topical swabs of the afflicted area/band may be effective too (iodine based meds). Short baths in antibiotics are du jour in kind: Nitrofurazone is a common drug of choice. Its all rather experimental. Please do share your results/experiences. Kindly, Anthony>

"Used" Flowerpot (8/31/04)
Thanks for the advice <Hope it helps.>, but I did want to let you know that I purchased this tank used.  It already had a flower pot coral (Goniopora) in the tank.  I have had it set up now for 5 months and seems to be doing okay.  Polyps extend daily.  Retract at night.  I am unsure how long the previous owner had it. I have done as much research as I can on this guy and if he does die I will not purchase another one. <With luck, yours will be one of the few that thrives. Do follow what you have learned from your research to maximize your chances of success. Most die in less than a year, so if you get beyond that you've accomplished something. Do let us know how it goes.> Thanks for all of your help!  I love your site.  It is of tremendous value! <My pleasure to play a small role here. Steve Allen.>

Unidentified worm, friend or foe? 8/12/04
Hey Guys!!  
<whassup G-money?>
Enjoying your site more everyday.  I have a question that I could not find an answer to.  It is one of those dreadful 'do you know what this might be without a picture?" questions.  We recently bought what the LFS called a 'flower pot' coral.  I have no idea what its origin or scientific name is but it was beautiful.
<ughhh... I must disappoint you terribly I fear. This was a dreadfully ill-advised purchase. The coral is Goniopora... and if you'll take the time to read about it in our archives and beyond, you will see that it has very little chance of surviving in captivity. Simply dreadful that the LFS sold it to you without advising you of its great difficulty (few live more than a year with most dying in 6 months or so). And alas... you must take responsibility for being a consumer that did not take the time to learn the needs of an animal before you bought it. It may cost this animal its life very soon because of it. I'm guessing furthermore too that you did not quarantine the coral but instead placed it directly into your display which may have compounded the problem by introducing a parasite, predator pest or disease. You should read and understand the need for QT (quarantine of all livestock without exception)>
However when we got it home we found a bristle worm poking around in it and promptly eradicated it from the aquarium (the worm, not the coral, and no, we stupidly did not use our quarantine tank as we have used this LFS many times without incident and this was our first coral so we got impatient.)  
<ahhh... yes. Many of us have made this mistake. You must understand my friend... no exceptions to the QT rule. Everything wet! Snails, sand, rock, corals, fish... everything! And I personally am not inspired by any/your LFS that sells a Goniopora coral (or even stocks them for impulse sales) to unprepared aquarists. As to the no QT thing because of luck with their past livestock.. a weak argument as you must know. It only takes one bad bug to get into your tank to wipe out serious qtys of other livestock. How do you/we know that an hour before you came to buy that coral that someone did not dip an algae scraper or a hand from another infected tank into the tank you just bought your coral from? For these reasons and more... always QT>
Now to the question at hand.  Today, we discovered another worm in the tank.  This one is about the length and thickness of a toothpick and is a red-brown color.  It is smooth, I saw no hairs or sections.  It looks like the intestines of a fish when you dissect them (Only it moves, of course!!).  I have google searched and read through your site but just can't seem to find anything that quite fits.  Any help would be great. Thanks for being there for us, Eric & Kim
<perhaps a spaghetti or medusa worm... likely a harmless detritivore regardless. The Bristleworms are quite helpful too... please don't remove them. Understand that they only become a nuisance if you overfeed or overstock your tank and make excess food available to them. Anthony>

Enquiry on Goniopora 8/2/04
Hi there, Saw your website on Poritid Corals and would like to seek your advice.  
I bought a Blue Goniopora from a LFS 2 days ago. It was opening in the LFS, but when I placed in my tank, 
the polyps don't seem to expand.  
<Two days is not a long time for the coral to get acclimated.  It sometimes is many days or even a couple of weeks.>
Okay my tank is a 2.5ft by 18 inch by inch tank , with 2 X 24W T5 lighting (1 x 20000k white , 1x 420nm actinic).
Water parameters as follows;
    NH3, NO2 :0ppm
    NO3:25ppm
    PO4:<0.2ppm
    CAL: 400ppm
    Mg:1200
    Hardness:8dkh
    Temp:26 degree Celsius
Currently, my Gonio is placed in the bottom of the tank substrate, facing up with a lot of light on it, 
and water movement that sway the partially extended polyps. I also noticed that when I switched off my lights, 
the length of extension of polyps seems longer than if lights were on???  But, some web says that 
brightly colored Gonio prefers intense lighting? Can you help me out on this?  Thanks and Regards.  Alex  
<IMO, many aquarists overestimate the amount of light that their corals need, so don't buy into the notion
that you need a bazillion watts of light.  In your case, you probably have plenty, but not too much.  
I would suspect that this coral has been kept under very low light and will need some time to acclimate to yours.  
Other than your nitrate, your water parameters look fine.  Salinity should be 1.024-1.026.  Best Regards.  AdamC>

Goniopora care? 7/6/04
Hi Bob
<Anthony Calfo in his stead>
I was wondering if I could get some advice on my Goniopora Coral that I
introduced to my tank about a week ago.  I have a 360 liter Tank.  The
first few days the Coral's cones were all out.  The last couple of days
most of them are either inside the rock or slightly out looking a bit
dried out.  I restructured my Live rock and since then the Coral is
placed in a different location in the tank.  I was told to place this
type of coral half way from the top to the bottom.  There is not to much
current on the Coral.  My water levels are all good.  Please can you
advise. Thanks, Gary
<its tough to say/advise in part because I'm not sure which species you have. Goniopora stokesii is common in the trade and is a free-living Goniopora that lives on the sand bottom and must be kept there (they suffer long term if placed on rock). They are also one of the few species in this genus that have a prayer surviving in captivity (red Goniopora and the genus Alveopora are much better alternatives). Goniopora lobata is another common import, but they are cleaved from hard substrates and really have little or no chance of surviving in captivity with our present knowledge of necessary husbandry. There are good reasons to support the suggestion by some folks that few if any of these types of coral should be collected at all for the aquarium trade. Do read more on the net (in our archive and abroad) and fine books like Eric Borneman's Aquarium Corals or my "Book of Coral Propagation" [we both have Aussie distributors... see dealers list at readingtrees.com]. Best regards, Anthony>

Organism ID - low res original 5/31/04
Here's a bigger pic
<Mathew, the problem here is that the original was shot at too low a resolution. Enlarging it to the sizes sent only grossly pixelates it. Do look at the same size on your pc and you will see this my friend. It literally looks like a paint-by-numbers painting. I cannot discern anything from it. Could be invertebrate egg mass, could be encrusting sponge, tunicate... all bets are off at this point. I wish I could be of more help here.>
One other question, I have had a Goniopora for about six months and so
far it seems to be growing.
<do not mistake growth from expanding polyps, which commonly occurs as lights age, get dirty, canopy or lenses get dirty, water clarity degrades (lack of frequent carbon, ozone, etc. use) and simply inadequate light from go. I doubt you can/have seen actual calcification on this characteristically slow grower in a mere six months>
It's about a foot across now and its rubbing against the side of the tank when extended. Should I move it so its got space all around or do you think it will be ok?
<please do move it so that its polyps do not become abraded. Anthony>

Spirobranchus giganteus & Porites SPS - 5/24/2004
Anthony:
<cheers Rich>
To review our last correspondence, you said the Porites needs very, very bright lights & high water movement. 
<yes... true for some Porites species, but not all. The growth forms (stout and boulderesque/massive and/or dense corallums indicate high water flow)>
I have a 250W MH HQI Pendant w/Aqualine 10K bulb (on one side, lower light on the other) in a 55 gal (48x13), preparing for SPS and clams. I have about 42lbs. LR, 4" DSB (time to add more), Calcium around 375, dKH at 10,
<all good>
pH 8.07 (just before lights on) - 8.31 (at lights off) (Pinpoint Monitor). 
<do try to get this higher... 8.3 minimum for low at night. Better calcification and stability in the system>
In an earlier FAQ, someone asked you: "Do you think a bright yellow Porites coral gets adequate lighting if approx. 10 inches straight below a 150W AquaLine HQI bulb?", and you said "likely yes, close if not." Anyway, with my 250's, how far down IYO can I keep one? 
<no idea... it depends on your water clarity, lamp age, reflector style, etc. That said, I'll make an educated guess that it will be fine in the top half of the tank>
You also go on to say: "They are adaptable and will survive lower light... they just wont stay yellow". 
<correct>
Is this also true if you keep it too close to the MH lights ("ankle-deep" comment notwithstanding)? 
<nope... they will/may pale in color instead. Rather dangerous too to apply too much light. Low light can be compensated for with additional food/feeding, but excessive light will not do the same. It may instead lead to photoinhibition/death of the coral in time. Error on the conservative side and feed the tank well (refugium in this case for the SPS)>>
BTW, I am running an Iwaki 40RLXT through a closed loop manifold. Thanks, and welcome back. Rich.
<thanks kindly my friend :) Anthony>

Goniopora Ailment 4/12/04 
Hello folks and thank you for taking the time to perhaps help me. I have a Goniopora stokesii, that has been in my tank for about six months and seemed to be doing well. 
<they are free-living species and need to be on the sand bottom. If they are placed unnaturally on rock (like folks regrettably sometimes do with Trachyphyllia open brains) they seem to suffer in time (lack of micronutrients from substrate, abrasion from polyp cycles on rock, etc?). Most will go about 6 months on rocks ;)> 
The problem is that when the lights are out and the polyps are retracted I have noticed that there is an area of missing polyps. I first noticed this about three weeks ago but as the area was very small and the coral expands beautifully I felt the coral was in no real danger. Over the last three weeks, however, the area of lost polyps is becoming larger. The rest of the animal opens very well, so well in fact that you can only see the damaged area after the polyps are retracted. There is never any 'jelly' infection and no slough tissue. Might there be something that would eat the polyps and section at a time? 
<yes, but just as likely could be an injury from a fish or invertebrate that nipped it... expanding now> 
The coral is in a 125 gallon SPS aquarium that is lit by 250 watt metal halides. It receives moderate to strong flow and as I said the rest of the coral opens completely and covers the damage. My water conditions are as follows: NH3, NO2, and PO4 are all zero as per Salifert tests. 
<do allow some nitrates for good coral health/color. About 5 ppm is fine> 
Calcium is around 450 ppm, pH ranges from 8.1-8.2, and alkalinity is 2.5 meq/l. 
<your Alkalinity is flat because the Ca is so high (not needed). Do consider allowing the Ca/Alk dynamic to be more even keeled. 8-12 dKH for ALK and no more than 420ppm Ca (350-420). Neither should be at the high end of either range at the same time (no worries)> 
There are sally Lightfoots, red leg hermits, two camel shrimp and an arrow crab. 
<none of the above are truly reef safe. All are cited as nipping coral... the sally lightfoot in particular. Read about it in the archives FAQS> 
The only fish are two lawnmower blennies and a Scopas tang. 
<no trouble here likely> 
Any insight you might be able to offer or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again. Matt Hall 
<best regards, Anthony>

The worm that 8 Goniopora 4/4/04 Crew of Wonders, <wondering in Pittsburgh, Anthony Calfo in your service> In my 175 reef I have a Goniopora, healthy and BIG for about 5 1/2 months now. I acquired it before I was to bask in the collective knowledge of WWM. I now know better. <good to hear, as they say "Every day, a better way"> But over the last 2 days it has been closed with little extension; I figured it was the beginning of the inevitable. As I was preparing the pyre, I noticed what looked like an arm of a serpent star entwined throughout the stubs and "flowers" of the Goniopora. I noticed that MY serpent star was across the tank so I tried to grab it with a pair of tongs. It looked about 4 inches long as it meandered around the coral. As I touched it recoiled swiftly. After 3 tries I got the bugger and placed it in a container. It has contracted to about 1 1/2 inches and swimming with a "sine" movement. It also "slimed" the water when I messed with it, a whitish discharge that floated on the water. Attached is a small pic of the suspect, to the left you can see the goo it oozed.  Any insight would be appreciated, especially if it was the culprit of the Goniopora's ills. I searched the FAQs and no mention of the goo... Walter <I cannot make a specific ID for this worm or even confirm that it is predatory or simply scavenging an already (albeit suddenly, dieing or necrotic Goniopora. I can say that is it is the former, it did not likely arrive on import with the coral, but rather appeared recently from the introduction of a coral, love rock, snails, sand, etc without a proper quarantine period. Hard to explain a decided predator any other way with 5+ months of good behavior. Kindly, Anthony>

Goniopora daughter satellites/buds 4/5/04 
Hi All, I have kept my Goni for over a year. Recently it budded of a baby and has about 20 more on parent. 
<excellent to hear!> 
Any ideas on what to do next, thanks a lot Simon. 
<I have cultured many of these myself (a few hundred at least) from a colony of G. stokesii I kept in my greenhouse. There is a picture of one of the active parents on my Book of Coral Propagation. For the buds, do not cut or collect them prematurely. Leave them to mature and drop off on their own. They are free-living at that point and need no different care than the donor. Best of luck, Anthony>

Another dying Goniopora 3/23/04
Hello Everybody
<cheers>
My Goniopora coral started getting this translucent brown film over it and it has been covering the piece more and more each day. I sent a poor picture of it and I hope you can make out what's going on. Is this coral dying and if so what could of caused this to kill this piece?
<this is how most Goniopora end up within weeks/months of import... they die in most tanks and really should not be collected/purchased (by you/us being educated consumers and denying them at retailers)>
thank you  Kirt Joseph
<please do a keyword search with the google search tool on our website/home page at wetwebmedia.com
you will find numerous FAQs and other information on this sad topic for perspective. Please do buy/use a proper QT tank to isolate this sick coral... and be sure to employ quarantine for all new fish, coral, rocks, etc in the future. It is critical for your success and their lives. I cannot emphasize this point strongly enough. Read more on QT in the archives... some excellent and recent articles by Scott Fellman, et al. Anthony>

Sick Goniopora Hello guys and girls I emailed a very poor picture of some sick Goniopora. It had a brown translucent covering all over it.  It started out on one corner of the piece and quickly spread over the entire piece. I took the piece out of the tank to wash away the brown covering and it disintegrated in the tank. I did manage to wash some of it away in a bowl filled with the tanks water and put it back in the tank. much of the piece looks dead and had a little foul odor after I cleaned it smelled ok and it looks like there are some tubes trying to blossom. Will this piece come back? I included the best picture I have of it. I have included a picture of the piece after I cleaned it and it is Jpeg 014 it shows it on top to the left of the bubble. Will this fragmented crap floating around in my tank effect the other corals, worms, polyps?  I also included JPEG 008 that shows what looks like hair algae (red) growing on a rock can you identify and tell me if this is bad stuff and how to get rid of it if it is bad? Thanks Kirt Joseph <please send only downsized images to friends/folks like us as a courtesy to our mailboxes, my friend. These images are huge and clog mail space for other folks in need. As per your query... there is much information in our archives on this subject... please do take the time to read and do keyword searches to focus on your topic of interest. Go to the index page wetwebmedia.com and type in search words/phrases at the bottom of the page in the google search tool like "sick Goniopora", "infection", "brown jelly" [the infection you have], "Goniopora", etc. kindly, Anthony>

Sick Coral - Help
I have a large green Goniopora? (flower pot coral) that is covered in brown goo in several spots....disease?
<yikes... a highly infectious condition>
I was told to dip the coral in a partial hydrogen peroxide dip and watch the goo bubble away and hope for the best.
Is this wise or just toss the coral?
<perhaps helpful, as are iodine dips and freshwater baths. Still... the coral is not likely to survive this aggressive infection. And you really do need to understand, appreciate and use a quarantine tank to put all new corals, fishes and other critters in first before adding them to the display... and to use at times such as this. The infection you are observing can easily spread to healthy coral in the tank and take a heavy toll. I'd hate to see you learn about the importance of QT tanks this way. Please do read up more on this ASAP. Anthony>