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FAQs on Tapwater Filtration: Reverse Osmosis, Deionized, Distilled
Water Storage, Moving Related
FAQs: RO/DI & Distilled Water 1,
RO/DI & Distilled Water 2, RO/DI &
Distilled Water 3, RO/DI & Distilled Water
4, RO/DI & Distilled Water 5,
RO/DI & Distilled Water 6, RO/DI &
Distilled Water 7, Rationale,
Selection, For Commercial/Large Output,
RO Water Treatment,
Maintenance/Repair, Deionizing Source
Water Filtration, Kati-Ani DI Units,
Kold-Steril Units, Water Make-up,
Nitrates, Related Articles:
Water Purification Using Reverse Osmosis,
Reverse Osmosis, A Multipurpose Tool By Mark E. Evans,
Water Changes, Water Quality, Synthetic
or Natural Seawater, Nitrates, | 
As in hiking... the best place to store water... |
RO/DI Water Temp 10/29/07 Hi, I found many suggestions on
your FAQs about preparing RO/DI water, and it is suggested to heat and
aerate to drive off CO2, but could not find the suggested temperature we
should heat the water, not sure if you just mean heat to usual aquarium
temperature or you are suggesting more than that temperature, please
advise, <Heat it to usual aquarium temperature. This is so that when
you do a water change, or add top-off water, you don't shock your
fish/coral/inverts with a sudden temperature drop. RO/DI water is
usually very cold when it comes out of the filter (or it should be).>
Thanks in advance, Germán <De nada, Sara M.>
I want to make sure I have this water thing straight...
Mainly storing/using RO and synthetic SW 7/8/07 Hi
there everyone! First, I apologize this is so long - many questions,
all gathered over the last 2 weeks of intensive reading. I have been
reading your web site (made a a donation also, <Thank you :)>
because I feel like I have read a small book in the past few days) about
deep sand beds, skimmers, RO water, water in general, and other assorted
stuff. Whew, what a bunch of information!...thanks for providing this
site with all your answers to people's questions. However, I still
have a few questions I did not see answers for. After reading about
water, I want to make sure I have this straight: I have a Kent Marine
Pro Hi-S RO unit (installed Dec. 06, primarily because our water company
has regular outages (3-4 last year) that put us on boil water
advisories, and are not always the best about notification...this way I
have water to drink, as well as making my fish happy). This means I no
longer need to carry buckets from my LFS guy - nice. However, because of
low water pressure, it takes a few days (or more dedicated gathering
from me) to gather all the water needed for water changes (a 29 gallon
freshwater and a 29 gallon reef. If I read everything correctly, I
can put the RO water directly in my reef tank (3 fish, ~20 corals of
various types, although mostly SPS, somewhere between 25-40 lbs. LR,
deep sand bed) without adding anything - as long as I put it in a 1
gallon container and drip it over the course of 1-2 hours to replace
evaporated water. Correct? <That's a lot of work. If you just need to
replace a gallon, you can just pour it all in at once. Just make sure
your top off water temperature is relatively close to tank temperature.
If it's right out of the RO unit it could be really cold. Now, if you're
mixing Kalk solution or something like that, then it's prudent to drip
it in. > After reading about buffering, should I automatically buffer
it even before adding it this way? And if I store it while I am
gathering 5 gallons in a bucket (usually 2 days of gathering), it should
go into a covered container with a powerhead or airstone to circulate
the water and prevent it from becoming stagnant, right? Or how fast does
it go stale? <Are you doing all this just for top off water?
Buffering (if needed) and circulation are good things to do for water
changes, but usually unnecessary for small top offs.> As a Christmas
present, my brother presented me with ~10 5-gal. buckets that were once
used to keep kosher dill pickles. Will the pickle smell hurt anything if
I store water in these containers? <I doubt it. The smell is
probably from the vinegar and a little vinegar shouldn't hurt anything.
However, if you're really concerned, just test the water's pH before
using it.> Or should I try to clean out the buckets (don't know how,
it seems to have permeated the plastic - overwhelming smell if you close
the bucket up and then open it a few days later!). <Coincidently,
many aquarists use vinegar to clean out buckets and equipment because
it's a safe cleaner that dissolves calcium deposits. You should rinse
out the buckets well, but I can't imagine you'd need to worry about any
residual vinegar that might have penetrated the buckets.> Also, re:.
adding saltwater - if I only add 1-3 gallons (less than 10% on my tank),
I can mix up the water and add it without a 1-3 day prep, however, if I
have more, I need to create it, keep it heated, and aerated...again in a
covered container. Right? <This is the most prudent practice, yes.
That said, if you need to do a water change in a hurry or in an
emergency, just make sure the water is well mixed and close to tank
temp, salinity and pH.> Also, how long does it take for mixed
saltwater to go bad if there is no aeration? <I'm not sure what you
mean by "go bad." However long you let it sit, you can always re-aerate
it. If you're ever worried, you can always test the water's pH. Sitting
water freshly out of the RO unit can sometimes be acidic. Aerating it
should remedy this.> I read quite a bit mentioning this, but never
with any general timeframes - it makes me think the water will go stale
(fresh) or bad (salt) if I leave it unaerated even 24-48 hours, hence
the questions. <I think you may be over-thinking some of this. If
your water has been sitting for over 24hrs, just re-aerate it with a
powerhead. :) > Thanks again for all your inputs and your fast
answers to everyone's questions, <No problem. Thanks for writing.>
Kerstin DeRolf :-) P.S. I know my current tank is crowded - I am
hoping to upgrade soon. However, everyone is generally happy, so it must
not be too bad for them - I just know I would like to have more room for
all, so I am hoping to upgrade to a 92-gallon this fall (if my husband
doesn't have a conniption). Thx again, Kestin:-) <Overcrowding with
fish is especially bad for reef tanks. It will be good if you can
upgrade to a bigger tank. Just try to resist the temptation to get more
fish for the bigger tank. ;) Best, Sara M.>
Mainly storing/using RO and synthetic SW... Double-posted...
7/8/07 Try 2, in case it didn't go through the first time...I
want to make sure I have this water thing straight... <You'll learn
not to double-post here...> Hi there everyone! First, I apologize
this is so long - many questions, all gathered over the last 2 weeks of
intensive reading. I have been reading your web site (made a donation
also (FYI for those who don't realize it's possible), <Oh, yes. Our
Amazon "begging bowl" is at the bottom of most pages> because I feel
like I have read a small book in the past few days) about deep sand
beds, skimmers, RO water, water in general, and other assorted stuff,
and I know I have much reading left to do. Whew, what a bunch of
information!... thanks for providing this site with all your answers to
people's questions. However, I still have a few questions I did not see
answers for. <Okay> After reading about water, I want to make sure
I have this straight: I have a Kent Marine Pro Hi-S RO unit (installed
Dec. 06, primarily because our water company has regular outages (3-4
last year) that put us on boil water advisories, and are not always the
best about notification... this way I have water to drink, as well as
making my fish happy). <Good> This means I no longer need to carry
buckets from my LFS guy - nice. <Ah, yes> However, because of low
water pressure, it takes a few days (or more dedicated gathering from
me) to gather all the water needed for water changes (a 29 gallon
freshwater and a 29 gallon reef). If I read everything correctly, I
can put the RO water directly in my reef tank (3 fish, ~20 corals of
various types, although mostly SPS, somewhere between 25-40 lbs. LR,
deep sand bed but no sump or refugium) without adding anything - I do it
with a 1 gallon container and drip it over the course of 1-2 hours to
replace evaporated water. Correct? <Should be fine... If the changes
were a few gallons all at once, I'd suggest aerating the water... And of
course, making any chemical and physical changes to it ahead of use>
After reading about buffering, should I automatically buffer it even
before adding it this way? <If needed, yes> And if I store it
while I am gathering 5 gallons in a bucket (usually 2 days of
gathering), it should go into a covered container with a powerhead or
airstone to circulate the water and prevent it from becoming stagnant,
right? <A good idea> Or how fast does it go stale? <Mmm, never
really> On a slightly different topic...As a Christmas present, my
brother presented me with ~10 5-gal. buckets that were once used to keep
kosher dill pickles. Will the pickle smell (which has seriously
permeated the plastic) hurt anything if I store water in these
containers? Or should I try to clean out the buckets (open to a
suggestion how, am leery of using bleach). <Do give them a scrub with
"rock salt" or such... and a few rinses till there is no smell... I
prefer the Rubbermaid Brute trashcan series... maybe with a spiffy
wheeled cart, cover...> Also, re:. adding saltwater - if I only add
1-3 gallons (less than 10% on my tank), I can mix up the water and add
it without a 1-3 day prep, however, if I have more, I need to create it,
keep it heated, and aerated...again in a covered container. Right?
<This is best> Also, how long does it take for mixed saltwater to
go bad if there is no aeration? <Again... indefinitely good...> I
read quite a bit mentioning this, but never with any general timeframes
- it makes me think the water will go stale (fresh) or bad (salt) if I
leave it unaerated even 24-48 hours, hence the questions. Thanks
again for all your inputs and your fast answers to everyone's questions,
Kerstin DeRolf :-) <No worries re the water going "bad"... the same
molecules have been on this planet for billions of years...> P.S. I
know my current tank is crowded - I am hoping to upgrade soon. However,
everyone is generally happy (randomly checked levels, and other than an
elevated nitrate (am getting a new protein skimmer), all values are as
dictated (ammonia 0, nitrite 0, alkalinity 9dHK, pH 8.0 (before bright
lights on), spg 1.026, calcium 420) so it must not be too bad for them -
I just know I would like to have more room for all, so I am hoping to
upgrade to a 92-gallon this fall (if my husband doesn't have a
conniption). Thx again, Kerstin:-) <Heeee! Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: fish behavior, storing filtered water - 6/25/07 Thank
you kindly for your response. Since writing this, the Pseudochromis
has appeared, but unfortunately half eaten. The clown has not turned up
at all. It is very upsetting to know that the stress I created by
cleaning the live rock killed these poor guys. Another lesson learned
for me! <Ah, yes> I neglected to ask one question. I have been
reading up on storage of filtered water, as a Kold-Steril unit is on the
way for me. I have read that most people store aerated and circulated RO
water for their top off. I understand that it is best to let the water
aerate and circulate for several days before using. <Mmm, a few
minutes will generally do here> My question is what happens when you
get to the end of the stored water? Surely, you cannot go several days
without top off, and adding new top off to the existing storage seems to
defeat the purpose of circulating for several days. Do folks actually
keep two buckets of top off circulating so that there is always aged top
off available??? Regards, Kim in Boston <I don't... some can
be added w/o aeration... it's just the big changes that might cause
troubles with low DO here. Bob Fenner>
Water
Storage 11/28/06 HI guys, <Hi> I have a silly water
storage question for you! After I run my tap water through my
SpectraPure 5 stage RO/DI filter I keep it in a 30 gallon Tupperware
covered barrel for storage. <ok> I then take out 10 gallons of this
water once a week for my weekly water changes on my 55 gallon tank. I
mix the salt, heat the water and run a powerhead with the lid off of an
18 gallon tub that the 10 gallons sit in 24 hours before I change the
water in my aquarium. <Sounds good.> My question is, do I have to
run a powerhead in the large barrel of water 24 hours a day or can I
just aerate the 10 gallons of water 24 hours in advance of using it for
a water change. I'm trying to cut down on my exorbitant electric
bill! Thanks for your time. Lynne <Your current method
should work fine as long as you are not experiencing any problems.>
<Chris> RO/DI Water 11/28/06
<Greeting, Mich here.> I store my make-up water in a
utility closet in my laundry room. <covered or wide open?> Also in the
laundry room is my cat's liter box. From the initial smell, you would
think my cat only eats beans <I'm so sorry. Is your cat OK? Can be a
sign of health problem, may want to talk with you vet, consider a
different cat food.> (yes the box gets cleaned almost daily). Because
of this (air borne fecal bacteria) and other factors, such as other air
borne bacteria, <Ammonia would be my first concern.> should I have some
sort of carbon filtration along with the heater, buffer and
powerhead? <Wouldn't hurt, but don't know if it's necessary if you keep
the containers covered.> The reason I ask this question is because in
times past I have seen a pink film (I believe it's the early stages of
mildew growth <or iron/rust>) on unclean toilets, tubs and animal water
bowls. Should I even be concerned at all with this build up in my
storage container? <I would empty it and clean it regularly with water
and baking soda.> I only use about 5 gal a week to replace evaporation
and 15 gal every two weeks for water changes. Thanx, <welcome>
Duane A. -More on storing purified water- Thank
you for the quick response from my other question regarding premixing
saltwater. I find your website very useful. I do have a few more
questions and please correct me so I know I am doing things right. I
currently make my own distilled water and there is NO contact with
copper. How long should I aerate it to get the carbonic acid out?
<Overnight, if you determine that you have some sort of a co2 problem
from distilling> After I aerate it, what brand would you recommend to
add back the important minerals and buffers before using is for top off
water or mixing salt with it? <Add nothing for mixing salt, add marine
buffer when you use it for top-off> Should I use the same method for
both the water I use for top off evaporation and water I use for making
saltwater. <No need to buffer it when mixing saltwater> I currently
use The Kent Marine Super DKH in my 55 gallon tank to keep my Alkalinity
and ph at par levels. Would this product be okay to use in the distilled
water to make it okay to use?. IF not what brand would you recommend.
<The Kent stuff is fine> In other words I make my own distilled water
and would like to know the steps necessary so that I can use the
distilled water for replacing water evaporation and using it making
saltwater. Remember I have a 18 gallon tank with a Aquaclear 500 filter
that I use to store my saltwater ready to used at any moment. <I
would store it as-is with no buffer in it. Only do something to it when
you're ready to use it. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks! Donovan
Sacramento, Ca - RO Water Storage - Hello, I keep a
90gal planted Discus tank. The tank is about 6 mo. old and mostly doing
fine. My question is regarding my water. I have a RO drinking water
system in my house so I upgraded it slightly and installed a 40 gal.
storage tank with float switch to store fish water. At each water
change I add about 30% tap (Well) water to my storage tank and let the
RO fill it back up. I have a heater in the tank keeping it at the
proper temp. This creates the proper hardness for the Discus and has
worked well. Recently however I have noticed some scum floating on top
of the water in my storage tank. I realize that I need to clean out the
tank periodically but my question is am I making things worse by adding
the tap water to the storage tank? <No, likely just stuff from the air -
would be best if you added a pump for circulation, perhaps a small power
head to stop the water from getting stale.> Should I be storing only
pure RO water and adding the tap as I do the water change? <Shouldn't be
an issue either way.> My only problem with that is the only tap water I
have that hasn't been through a salt brine water softener is cold so I
would have to have a way to pre heat the tap water as well. <Just your
regular heater should do the trick.> Should I be concerned or should I
just clean my tank and move on? <Uhh... just clean the storage tank and
move on.> Thanks for the help! Kurt <Cheers, J -- >
Float Switch ???? Hi bob Great site. My question is I have
an RO/DI system hooked up to an 55 gallon tank .However I have forgotten
the unit of twice now. My wife is very pi$%^ed because I have flooded
the downstairs bird, laundry room. The carpet is shot now. I need to
hooked an automatic shutdown for this RO/DI . Plus would like to hookup
float switch from 55 to my sump. Do you have a part ## or sites to get
this info. If I flood these rooms again she will kill me. Thanks Capt
Gene <Hi Capt. Gene, Join the club..... The float kits for the RO and
the switch for the tank level can both be purchased at our
WetWebMedia.com sponsors. Foster and Smith, Custom Aquatic, etc. all
carry these wife protection devices. Use a timer with a LOUD buzzer or a
water timer in the meantime! Craig> Re: ro/di Hi crew,
After, a long research endeavor and with the suggestion of Bob, I have
decided on a 100gpd ro/di system for both my 90g reef and my 110g fish
only tank. My question is two fold... 1) should I START both
tanks with ro/di effluent or can one use tap and then use ro/di for
changes and top off after cycling! <I'd use the best water to start
with> 2) my 90g is right next to a slop sink so no problem in
having access to the ro/di water, yet my 110g fish only is about twenty
feet away from this sink. so having said that, how do I combat that
distance... putting change and makeup water in a tub or Rubbermaid bin
is not feasible, in that not only would it be too heavy to bring over to
the tank but I can not wheel it over either in that there is a Bump of
sorts in the floor I would not be able to get a dolly over.....Do you
all know if there is an attachment of sorts that would help here..... or
maybe have a real long 20 ft tube from the ro/di effluent product water
over to the FO tank??? <I would get/use a designated "fish only"
plastic bucket or tub, dump the R.O./D.I. water into it, and use a small
submersible pump or good-sized powerhead and length of vinyl tubing (and
plastic clamp to hold it in place) to move the water from the utility
sink (with the bucket/tub in it) to near or in the tank. Bob Fenner>
Thanks Guys.... HI ANTHONY! Storage Water - 6/12/2003
Crew: <Don here today> I am a little behind on my reading, but I
just read a FAQ from 4/18/2003, titled "- Re: Pervasive Nitrates -",
from Sheri. As it relates to my storage water, the aeration question
was answered like this: "...it takes very little time to aerate a
container of water". I am a little confused, as I constantly have an
airstone, heater and powerhead in my storage water container, which is
about 35 gallons and lasts me about a month. Should I turn off the
airstone a day or two after mixing a fresh batch of water? <I leave
the airstone and power head on all the time. Don> A Little
Confused...Still - 06/14/05 Thanks for answering ALL my
questions.............just a few more. <<Did you think I wouldn't
<G>?>> If I do switch to using RO water should I gradually do that
with my routine water changes and topping off water? <<This will
work fine, yes.>> I should let the RO water sit for a few days
before I use it right? <<My suggestion would be, as a minimum,
aerate for 24 hrs. and then add buffer and mix/let stand for a couple
hours before use as top-off...if adding salt mix (after adding/mixing
buffer)...aerate and/or mix with a pump/powerhead for another 24 hrs.
before use. If you have the space/forethought, it's best to mix your
saltwater and let it "age" for a few days before use.>> If I use RO
water what buffers do I need to add? <<Can be done with simple
sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), though I prefer to mix it (2 to 1)
with a manufactured buffer for the benefit of the carbonate and borate
salts of the latter.>> Are you talking about a pH buffer?....what
else? <<pH and alkalinity, yes.>> And please recommend some
brand names that you trust. <<I'm quite fond of the Seachem buffers
(Marine or Reef...either will do) for quality and price.>>
Ok.....that's it for now :) <<We'll be here if you need us <G>,
Eric R. RO water storage Hello, <Good morning to you>
I have a few questions about storage of RO water. Tonight I purchased a
RO unit from Sears and also picked up a Rubbermaid trashcan. I have to
pick up some compression fittings from the hardware store, but other
then that I almost have everything set up. As for the questions:
1) how long can I keep the prepared water in my basement in the covered
trashcan with a heater, aeration and powerhead for circulation?
<Indefinitely> 2) I use Instant Ocean mix, do I need to add anything
besides maybe pH buffer before I mix the salt or are most/all of the
trace elements in the Instant Ocean mix? <Nothing to add, all in the
mix> 3) I was thinking of using a submersible pump and a garden hose
to pump the water from the trashcan to my tank for water changes. Would
this work or is this just a bad idea? <No, a good idea. In fact, a
simple powerhead may do double duty here... with a bit of flexible
polyethylene hose to conduct water to your tank/s> I don't think it
would destroy the submersible pump if I flush it out after each use. I'm
just not sure if using one could harm the fish. 4) Can I just keep
the heater, aeration and powerhead running all the time? Or is there
such a thing as too much aeration? <You can. Do rig up an extension
cord you can turn all off at once, while you're moving water> Thanks
in advance for your time! And thanks for such a great site for a one
stop source of information! Tony Merlo <You're welcome. Bob
Fenner> R/O water and salt water storage Hi
Anthony or Bob, hope all is well. <with hope of the same for you
and yours> I haven't sent a question for a while! All is well with my
tanks no problems or issues, everything growing well and chemistry has
been fine. <excellent> A friend of mine is building a really nice
reef set up with the main reef 84"x24"x28" and his sump/refugium is a
180 gallon 72x24x24 tank. Due to this size he purchased two 55 gallon
containers to provide R/O and salt when required. I like his idea, we
built the containers up on a stand about 30" put bulkheads in the bottom
with 3/4" ball valves with tubing. With gravity you have a nice
delivery system that can make water changes a breeze. So I just
purchased two 55g containers to do the same. One will supply R/O water
to sumps in my two main tanks a 125g, and a 90g. The question is with
55g of R/O water, evaporation is about 3g a day, even with a small
powerhead in the container won't the R/O water harbor bad bacteria or
stagnate? <minor but can in time. Covered and dark is usually best
for keeping most water. Aeration of RO will be necessary at least one
day prior to use> What about the salt water. How long can I keep the
55g of salt water going with a small power head in the bottom. <I
don't know that you need to mix constantly with the PH. Just at first to
dissolve and then again one day prior to aerate. The trick of full time
aeration is the formation of insoluble calcium carbonate from all of
that turnover> If I only use 20g for water changes then refill to the
55g top, then add salt required will this be O.K. sitting for 3 to 4
weeks? <sure> This will be repeated month after month, so there
will be partial water that may be very old in the 55g drums. <not a
good habit/practice but no big deal either> One last question, I
noticed the web site has a new email address
crew@wetwebmedia.com should I be sending my questions there,
<yes...please do. As mail increases, so does our crew size
(hopefully!).> I am still using the old email (Bob's) one and don't
want to inconvenience anyone. Thanks in advance Larry <no
inconvenience, bub... just progress. Kindly, Anthony> Re: New
Tank David, I'm sorry,...I should have re-read my message that I
sent to you...I didn't just set up a 75 gal...I moved up to that from a
40 gal. Since I moved the live sand and rock , my new 75 gal. didn't
cycle. <Possible. However, if the sand was, is deep and it gets
adequately disturbed, it could cause a short cycle...quite easily>
But I think the new sand I added caused the ick break-out. I hadn't had
ick for 8 or so months in my old tank. I didn't add any new fish, but
was just asking how many I could add without affecting my tank water,
and the fact that I had an outbreak of ick. I have added two fish at a
time in my old tank and everything seemed ok. <You must be a fish
gambler...you know..."Throw it in and see how it swims." If this is the
course that you have already decided on then do it. But I
wouldn't...especially if you're not quarantining> I get my RO water,
and store it in containers until I need it. Can I put a tsp. of Clorox
in 6 gal. containers if I let them sit for a couple days? <You can
clean containers with a Clorox/water mix, empty the Clorox/water, let
the empty containers air-dry completely for a day or so, rinse them, and
they will be fine. This is the process that I use. Never use any kind of
soap. Only bleach>> I heard that the Clorox dissipates after 24 hrs.
Is that true? <You mean out of the Clorox/water mix? I have no idea
why you need to know this but I certainly wouldn't use the Clorox/water
mix for anything except cleaning...then down the drain> Thanks for
the info. <You're more than welcome! I hope you will consider my
suggestion to read more about aquarium husbandry and tank setup. A good
place to start is Wetwebmedia.com. Check out the "setup" section and the
"maintenance" section...There are hundreds of fact for each section.
David Dowless> Question on
RO/DI System I just purchased a Coralife 3 Stage RO/DI System
which produces 50 gpd. Unfortunately, the instructions on this "stuff"
doesn't explain the average ratio of time it takes to produce that 50
gallons.<<Huh? 50 gallons per day/gpd... divided by 24 hours per day...
RMF>> Is the average 1 gal / hr., 1 gal every 3 hours? In my case, it
seems like a whole day event just to get enough to do a water change on
a 75 gal tank. <Under optimum conditions, your RO should produce just a
tad over two gallons per hour. Water pressure and temperature have a
lot to do with the amount of water you will get out of the RO in an
hour. Get yourself a couple plastic five gallon pails and make your
water ahead of time.> James (Salty Dog) Please advise.
Thanks for your help. Sheryl Weaver
RO storage Dear Mr. Fenner: A quick question(s) for you. What
do you recommend to use for my RO water storage? Rubbermaid, Sterilite,
etc. will these brand containers be OK? <These are fine... a
Rubbermaid Brute with matching cover and wheel base is ideal for most
applications> I just don't want any contaminates leaching into the
water storage. <Almost all human-intended use containers are fine
here. Bob Fenner> Regards, Jim Storing R/O Water Ok,
First off... thanks for the great site, and all of your (3) help! Q#1
- I'm contemplating the R/o thing as I'm moving to an area (LA) with
very hard water. I've seen many of these setups in homes and they all
have puny storage tanks so I see the need for that garbage can setup
you've mentioned in earlier posts. My question is this: What exactly
is your set up from R/O unit to the "garbage can/storage container"? Do
you use a float valve? <No, I just run the line right to the can and
keep track of the time.> (all details please). I'd like to hide the
garbage can in a closet near the kitchen where, I'll be hooking up the
R/O. Q#2- Can you suggest any particular brands of R/o makers or all
they ALL good?? <I prefer SpectraPure. We have a link to the webpage
on our links page.> Q#3- Is there anything that's already been
created as an entire unit for aquarium use or would it be easier/less
expensive to put something together for myself (from home depot for
instance)? <I always buy the 32 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans from
Home Depot. I also highly recommend the four wheel dolly for moving the
can around.> Thanks, J <You are welcome. -Steven Pro> RO
water storage Dear Mr. Fenner: I have a quick simple question.
Should I aerate my RO water storage? <Yes, for sure> I would use
water from this storage to top off, make Kalk solution, and any water
changes necessary. Also should I use a RO water conditioner before
adding to the tank (top off), Kalk mix, and mixing salt (water changes)?
Thanks <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm
and the links, FAQs listed at top of this article for more detail,
input. Bob Fenner> Best Regards, Jim in Florida Re: RO
storage Thanks for the quick reply, you and your crew are great!!
Jim Sarasota, FL <always welcome my friend... please pass along a
good word about our Wet Web Media site to help educate our fellow
aquarists... for the love of it!> RO water Hi Bob. I
just ordered a Kent RO unit and have a question. I always age the salt
water I do water changes with, but is it okay to have the RO unit empty
the water it makes right into the sump for water top-off, or should it
be aged, also? Thanks in advance! <Good question... and no problem
with "not aging" (i.e., I would just have it go "right into the sump"
w/o storage... most all "bad stuff" that can be removed by storage will
have been taken out by the contactor and RO parts of the unit. Bob
Fenner> Jason RO or RO/DI I have a few questions
about RO and RO/DI units. 1. Do I need RO/DI? Will RO be just as
good? I want the best for the fish and inverts. <R/O wastes a lot of
water.. plain DI would be best. Combo if your water is really bad> 2.
I have read that you should not turn off RO units, turning them off will
decrease the filters life. If this is true, What about RO/DI units?
<no experience and dubious if the units are flushed regularly> 3. I
have also been told that RO waste a lot of water, does RO/DI? <yes...
an obscene amount> 4. If I purchase a Rubbermaid can with lid, how
will I be certain that no ill chemicals will be leaching into the water
being stored from RO or RO/DI? <they are commonly used safely but
come with no guarantees> 5. How long can I store RO or RO/DI water in
a rubber maid with lid? <aerated and dark for weeks> 6. I have
seen attachments for drinking water on RO units, is there a way of
getting an attachment to work with RO/DI units? <no idea... please
check with mfg> 7. Which units would you recommend for a 120-gallon
marine tank? I Will eventually be adding inverts and fish. <I like
the Kati Ani brand DI units> I have been doing a great deal of
reading on your site and others, but I am having no luck finding these
answers. Your direction and help would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you, Jesse <Best regards, Anthony>
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