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FAQs on Marine Water Supplements,
Using
Related Articles: Marine System
Additives, Marine Maintenance,
Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity,
Related FAQs: Marine
Supplements 1, Marine
Supplements 2, Marine Supplements 3,
Marine Supplements 4, & FAQs on Marine Supplement:
Rationale/Use,
Science, Measuring,
Troubleshooting/Fixing...
Products/DIY & Brands, &
Biominerals,
Iodine, Calcium and
Alkalinity,
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Supplements are basically... any/every-thing you add in addition to water,
food, salt mix... Best to read labels, packaging... and avoid adding all at
once... and most not directly to the system, but diluted in new water,
during change-outs, top-offs |
Brain Coral Damage,
supplement use 3/3/08
Hello,
<Greg>
I recently made the mistake of adding some powdered pH buffer (Sea Buffer by
Aquarium Systems) directly to my tank.
<Such supplements should be added to and through water change water...
dissolved...>
Found out the open brain coral did not like this at all.? It began secreting a
lot of clear mucous.? I think some of the powder probably touched the coral
before dissolving.? I removed as much slime as possible and waited to see if the
coral recovered.? The slime production stopped and the coral re-opened.?
However, after a week or so I noticed a small part of the coral was not opening
fully.? There is a small (< 1/4") area that has developed a whitish patch with
something sloughing off.? Coral continues to open daily (except for damaged
area) and everything else appears normal.? I am thinking some type of infection
has taken hold in this area.? Is this coral toast from the pH buffer contact or
is there some chance the tissue will heal??
<The latter... with good care, time...>
Anything I can do to help the tissue heal?? Lastly, how and when will I know if
this is a no win situation and I need to removal the coral before polluting the
tank.
Thanks,
Greg
<Iodine/ate, improved feeding... See WWM re. Bob Fenner>
2 part solution: getting in
balance 10/16/07
Hello, need some more expertly advise. I have a tank and refugium totaling
about 65 gallons. Ca=340ppm Alk=3mEq/l and ph is about 8.8
<... I hope it is NOT this high...>
(hard to match color for Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test. I have choose
<chosen>
to use Kent cb 2 part solution. I have heard that you need your system to be in
balance in order for the 2 part solution to work.
<Should be close to start, yes>
Is it in balance enough to just add until both Alk and Ca increase as I would
like?
<Yes>
I have a frogspawn and thought my calcium should be above 400ppm I have heard
that you should do a big water change to help get system in balance before using
the 2 part solution. For 65 gallons total water how many gallon water change
would you suggest?
<... maybe twenty gallons>
Also, I have an r/o unit that I use for my water. I mix 20 gallons of salt water
each month into a container for water changes and 20 gallons of fresh each month
into another container for make-up water. Should I buffer these even with the
use of the 2 part solution?
<Yes, a good idea... use one of the two... wait a day, test... use the other>
Also on another note, I heard that when using r/o water you should add buffer
then salt?
<Mmm, not necessary generally>
The last batch of water I made I added salt and then the buffer. When I tested
it had Ca=340 Alk=4.5mEq/l and ph about 7.8 I thought the Ca would be would be
around 400 using instant ocean sea salt. Is the low Ca due to improper buffering
application?
<Shouldn't be... I'd check your test kits... and aerate the RO water before
mixing...>
Thanks for all your help! Without all of your help I would just have to accept
looking at pictures of aquariums in magazines and on TV :)
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Iodine and Additives 01/18/06
Hi Bob,
<<Hello Linda. Ted on this end>>
Wow I couldn't believe how fast you got back to me about my question re:
compatibility of different types of cleaner shrimps - thank you very much!!
I have a different question the aquarium stores [2 salt water ones in my
area] have not been able to answer for me to my satisfaction. The question is
about additives. I have a 40 gallon reef tank, with about 12 small corals, a
couple of crabs, 2 shrimp, 2 star fish, snails, a sea urchin, a cucumber & 2
small fish. I clean my tank about every 2 1/2 to 3 weeks [about 10 to 12
gallons change], use Instant Ocean reef crystal salt & distilled water. I add a
teaspoon of calcium as directed every day. Recently, I have been adding 8 mil.
[as directed] per day of an additive called "Reef Solution" by EcoSystems that
is supposed to have multiple minerals & minor trace elements found in natural
sea water so that you don't have to add any other additives.
In the past, BEFORE I used this product, I had been using the Kent products
- calcium daily [I still do] + a teaspoon of Iodine weekly + a teaspoon of
strontium/molybdenum 2x a week. The reason I switched products is because of
the distilled water - I was concerned my tank lacked iron, etc. as found in
normal water & I am afraid to use tap water as it caused my tank to crash with
my very first water change.
<<Why not use RO/DI water instead of distilled?>>
I am now concerned about Iodine for my shrimp & crabs. I read you have to
be careful how much to add because it may cause premature molting, but yet there
is no test I can find to test the iodine levels - not even at the aquarium
stores! What would you recommend for additives? Do you know of any test kits
I can buy & what are the optimal levels that will make everybody in the tank
happy?
<<I don't recommend the extensive use of additives. Instead, I recommend
frequent water changes. High quality salts (like Instant Ocean, Tropic Marin and
others) contain the appropriate levels of iodine and other elements. Small,
frequent, water changes using a good salt mix will provide the appropriate
levels and make everyone happy. If you supplement calcium, do measure the
calcium levels in your system and dose accordingly. As far as test kits, I
personally like Salifert and SeaChem brands.>>
Thank you for your time,
Linda Campbell, beginner coral tank enthusiast
<<You're welcome - Ted>>
My anemone is BURNED!! SW supp.s 6/13/06
Hey I have sent this once already and I didn't get a response so I re-sent
it,
<Thank you... We have ongoing issues with our webmail... Arggghhh>
I absolutely adore your website.... Since I am a newbie I need all of the
opinions I can get, and I trust your teams opinions the most. I have a purple
LTA and when I was adding a diluted portion of Seachem Marine Buffer to raise
the PH level to 8.3
<... best to do this through your water changes... not directly into the
main/display tank>
some of the solution got on my anemone. A small portion of her lower tentacles
now look as if they have been burned, they are small and shriveled, and
bleached. Will these tentacles regenerate themselves?
Lorri Thanos
<Can if not too badly damaged... Do add such supplements to your pre-made
saltwater for use during change-outs. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
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Some Feedback and a Question 8/8/06
Hi Guys (and girls),
<Chris>
Firstly just some good news feedback. About 6 months ago my new reef tank was
started. The WWM crew has really helped me a lot in identifying
issues with my previously failed marine tank (especially Dr Fenner), and also
with advice on the setup of the new one. I am proud to say that
things seem to be well on track - the tank went through some horrible phases
with diatoms, followed by various types of green algae, but
finally this has all disappeared and I am proud to say that I now see various
types of red and pink coralline algae starting to cover the live
rock, with no nasty algae in sight. The main tank is about 150gallons in size, I
have T5 lighting only with soft corals, only a few fish (yellow
tang, coral beauty, niger trigger, sixline wrasse), some inverts and all seems
to be healthy and doing well. Thanks again for all the help so
far. at the moment I am really positive about the tank and it is largely due to
your support.
<Good>
The one question I have is about supplements. Initially when I had an algae bloom
I did a lot of reading about it and decided to stop adding
any supplements, because frankly I was just pouring stuff in without knowing the
impact,
<Very common situation>
except for my calcium reactor which is still running. For the last couple of
months all I have been adding to the system is the following:
1. Monitor PH and KH closely and buffer top-up water to keep this constant.
2. Monitor calcium closely and dose a bit to keep it around 360-400. (Still
trying to figure if calcium reactor is working properly,
because calcium still seems to drop a bit every week).
I have added nothing else to the tank at all for months. I am a little confused
about whether I should start adding any supplements as I
continue to add more corals to the tank. The LFS will tell you to dose
Magnesium, Strontium etc. but I am not comfortable adding anything to
the tank unless I have a test kit to monitor the values precisely. The general
feeling I get when reading the FAQ's is that its probably better
to not add any supplements and focus more on regular water changes to add new
elements, but I would like your opinion on this anyway if its ok.
<Bingo... this is my position... Don't add anything unless you are testing for
it... know it to be deficient... Many chemicals have antagonistic and/or
synergistic effects with others...>
Then just one other question - there seem to be patches of red coralline algae
growing on the substrate itself. is this normal ?
<Happens, yes>
(I'm pretty sure I can identify it as coralline algae).
And lastly, can you perhaps identify the interesting looking 'thing' that is
growing out of my live rock ?
<Appears to be a type of Brown Algae... of the genus Padina. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brnalgae.htm>
Thanks and sorry for the long email.
Chris Cronje
<No worries. Bob Fenner>
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Dosing Question – 2/8/07
<Hi Scotty, Brenda here tonight>
First of all, let me say you guys are the best!!!
<Thank you!>
Now, I searched the forums and got some of my answer to this question, but
need you to finish it.
<I’ll try>
I add part 1 and part 2 of the Oceans Blend calcium and alkalinity
supplement. I have added over 48 ml in the last 72 hours, but my test kit
is showing no increase in calcium (stays at 350ppm). My pH has been rising,
even though I have added an equal amount of part II (alkalinity).
<I need actual results of pH>
I do not have an alkalinity test kit yet (will get one soon), so I have no
idea to see where that is, and am basing any decision I make on an unknown.
<Yikes! Please stop! You will also need a Magnesium test kit. Mg should
be in the 1300 – 1500 ppm range for everything to balance properly.>
So my question is should I continue with both parts until my calcium gets to
400 ppm.
<No>
Should I use one for a few doses without the other as a way to balance out
the pH? Or should I just sit tight and let things get settled?
<Sit tight until you get some more test kits.>
Best idea is to listen to what you guys <or gals> have to say.
<Never dose calcium, alkalinity or magnesium into your tank until you know
what your levels are. Please read for a better understanding: www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.htm
www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm
www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.php#3
Also, here is a calculator to help you with dosing. It sure makes my life
easier: http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html
>
Scotty, NY
<Good luck Scotty, and be patient! Brenda>
What's the Diff. between Magnesium and Molybdenum? 2/26/07
<Greetings, Mich here.>
Molybdenum and magnesium... are they diff. substances?
<Yes. Chemically notated MoO42- and Mg2+ respectively.> <<Mmm, just the
elemental Mo and Mg symbols for these? RMF>>
I think it is a yes...or is Molybdenum just another form of magnesium?
<No.>
Because Red Sea produces...Molybdenum...they don't produce magnesium...and
Seachem sells magnesium but not Molybdenum.... isn't it weird?
<Mmm, no stranger than anything else.>
What's the effect of Molybdenum to reef tank?
<Possibly a micronutrient.>
Which is more important ??
<Magnesium.>
I am using magnesium only...should I put in Molybdenum too?
<No.>
What's the effect to my corals if I used Molybdenum too? :)
<As far as I'm aware the science isn't well understood. RMF any
comment? -Mich> <<Not necessary in any system I've ever read about, encountered
to add this micro-nutrient... is only necessary in very small amounts...
supplied by salt mix, foods... RMF>
Purified water testing & trace elements Water Quality 4/8/07
Hello,
<Hi Greg.>
I've been testing my make-up water via a Salifert alkalinity test kit. The
water is purified via an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Purifier.
<A very expensive way to purify water. An RO purifier will save you much money
here.>
I always get 0 dKH when testing. The thing is though, recently I got close
enough to the aerating/stored make-up water to notice a fishy stink.
<Is the water being circulated/aerated?>
So I tested alkalinity and it read 0. So I'm thinking the alkalinity test
obviously isn't sufficient.
<???Alkalinity has nothing to do with water purity.>
I'm guessing a TDS meter will do the trick. What is the best way to catch the
purifier before it produces anything less than perfect water?
If you think a meter is the way to go, will the Pocket TDS Meter from Marine
Depot do the trick? The reason I ask is, it seems like it might be cheaply made
@ $29.95.
<Total Dissolved Solids testing is used to check the effectiveness of RO units
and I believe would also tell you the condition of the media in your water
purifier.
As for the meter MD sells, I'd ask them that question.>
Also, I use a Poly Filter and dose Seachem's Reef Builder and Reef Advantage
Calcium. Should I remove the Poly Filter for four days every time I add these
to my tank? Will the Poly Filter remove a significant amount of trace elements
from either of these two products?
<No. If regular water changes are carried out, you will replenish any lost
trace elements.>
I really don't care if it removes the magnesium, strontium, etc. All I worry
about being absorbed is the calcium and alkalinity.
<No worries here.>
How much, if any, will it remove from these two products?
<Would be negligible at best.>
One more question. My make-up water (for water change) only has 960 ppm of Mg.
I'm shooting for 1050. I've got Epsom salts and I'm wondering if I can just add
the powder directly to my make-up water after it's been aerated, buffered,
brought to correct spg and pH. If not, how should I do this? Dilute in
purified water and then add to make-up water? The tank's magnesium level is at
915 ppm and would like this also to be 1050 since I maintain calcium around 350
ppm. Am I going about this in the right manner?
<I would mix the Epsom salts in a separate container and add directly to tank
when needed. As for other additives, follow manufacturers directions. James
(Salty Dog)>
Take care, Greg
Live Concrete? (Live Sandbed Going Solid)
What would turn live sand into cement?
Cindy
<Well, I've seen this happen in systems where lots of Kalkwasser or calcium additives were used with little circulation and no sandbed surface agitation. Not exactly concrete, but hard just the same! Hence, one reason that a little bit of
stirring at the surface is not a bad thing. Regards, Scott F.>
R/O water treatment part2 2/22/05
One follow-up question: If I use B-Ionic, is there any reason not to use it to treat the ro/di water in the Brute, before that water is used to make synthetic seawater or to top-up the tank? Thanks, Tom
<B-Ionic and similar two part additives are shipped as two parts because mixing them will result in a useless insoluble precipitate. For this reason, they must be added
separately (I even suggest several hours apart), and cannot be mixed in make up water. Also, you could add one or the other part to your make up water, but IMO, this would be complicating a very simple process. Hope this helps.
AdamC.>
Additives and Such
Guys,
<Scott F. your guy tonight!>
I have recently added a 90 gal refugium with DSB and plenum and a Knop dH cal
reactor to my 450gal reef tank. Refugium been in use for one month,
reactor for 2 weeks. Tank is already showing big improvements. Do I still need
to keep adding supplemental magnesium, strontium, molybdenum, or will/should the
cal reactor and refugium, plenum, DSB, provide these chemicals?
<Coupled with regular water changes, these items will help, yes!>
Refugium, plenum, reactor etc. set up as learned on this site. All basic
test results have shown excellent water conditions and am doing water changes
biweekly. I have not tested for these chemicals but have added them per
instructions.
<I am a big believer in Bob's admonition to only add something in your system
if you're gonna test for it. Just following the label could still be a problem
if your system does not need it. Regular water changes, like you're doing-will
do the job, IMO!>
Trying to create as self sufficient, natural system as possible.
<An admirable goal!>
Main tank has 2 inches live sand, refugium crushed coral ,aragonite combo. Thank
you, Paul.
<Sounds fine, but I'd go with 3" or more or 1/2 inch or less of sand in
the main tank. Two is not enough to support complete denitrification, but can
create long term nutrient accumulation problems. Keep reading and learning.
Enjoy!>
Supplements
Hello all,
<Hi!>
I was hoping you would enlighten me as to what brand products you use for your
calcium,
<B-ionic two part>
iodine/iodide
<I don't use this>
strontium,
<Don't use this>
and pH buffer/alkalinity additives.
<B-ionic>
Also, are iron and magnesium necessary for a successful reef?
<Some people do use ALL of the additives that you mention. Iron is good for
plant growth. My macro algae grows fantastically without it (Halimeda,
Gracilaria and hair algae. HA!). I personally don't use an iron or magnesium
supplement. Magnesium can affect your calcium and this is why some aquarists use
this product. Read all of the available material on these issues and then decide
what makes sense to you. In my case, I don't want to test for all of these
components and in most cases their usefulness in aquaria (except for calcium and
buffers) has not be proven. Most of what you read on bottles is simply hype
produced by the company selling the product. A good salt mix will contain
reasonable levels of all of these additives. I use Instant Ocean>
Do you use these also?
<No>
If so, again, what brand do you use?
<Skip these miracle cures. Practice good husbandry>
How many times per week do you add each (all) of the above
supplements?
<I add B-ionic as needed to maintain the proper calcium/alkalinity...usually
several times a week...or everyday if I've been slack on water changes. I also
add a little Kalkwasser to the salt water that I use for water changes...I use
the slurry method for delivery a couple of days before I do the water change.
The slurry method is described by Anthony Calfo on WetWebMedia>
Am I missing any important or recommended supplements besides maybe a little
vitamin C?
<A vitamin supplement like Selcon that you can soak all food in...It will
help keep the fish healthy and avoid HLLE>
Thanks again for you time,
Adam
<You're more than welcome! David Dowless>
Aragamilk - Kalkwasser - PH, Alkalinity, KH
Hello,
Can anyone give me the basic parameters for Alkalinity, KH, PH for my reef tank?
<Sure! 4-5 meq/L total alkalinity of which approx. 1.5-2 meq/L should be
borate/hydroxide alkalinity. The result you are interested in is total
alkalinity using a balanced buffer/carbonate supplement. PH should
8.3-8.4. KH is carbonate alkalinity. 350-450 calcium.>
Also, I was at a real awesome fish place today that uses Aragamilk in all of
their reefs. They told me it's much cheaper than dosing Kalkwasser, as 1
drop is for two gallons of water and a 16 oz container would last me many many
months for a 55 gallon reef tank.
<This all depends on your carbonate usage, so a blanket statement about how
long a product will last isn't accurate. A few drops may not supplement your
system to the desired levels. As far as expense, Kalkwasser (also known as
pickling lime, hydrated lime) is far less expensive for dosing calcium and
supporting alkalinity. There may/is still a need to supplement for carbonate
alkalinity with both products, depending on testing/usage in your
situation. I would tailor the supplements to your specific use. The
only way to top the use of Kalkwasser is a calcium reactor.>
I know many on the forum are "old school" and do what they KNOW works,
and try not to deviate from the norm. Was wondering if anyone has had experience
with Aragamilk. Also would I need to dose Aragamilk at night similar
to the methods of dosing Kalkwasser?
<No, it doesn't have the high pH of Kalkwasser.>
Because I have a refugium that's on a reverse daylight schedule, would dosing
Aragamilk or Kalkwasser at night REALLY make a difference due to the fact my ph
will be relatively stable due to the refugium's reverse daylight methodology.
Thanks again,
Steve
<Likely not as the refugium stabilizes the oxygen/CO2 content of the water
and thus the pH and any advantage of nighttime/early AM dosing. For
more info on water chemistry check out the info in the marine section of
WetWebMedia.Com Hope this helps! Craig>
Novice at work!
Hello Robert,
I just read about feather dusters in the FAQ section of http://wetwebmedia.com/
But I am still uncertain what's going on with my invert. For about 2 weeks it began to stay in it's tube more than out. Now, for about 3 days, it hasn't come out at all. The tip of the tube seems to be 'sealed' up! I don't know if the color has changed, ( I'm
embarrassed to say) but in the middle of the tube it is a very dark brownish/maroon color.
<Yikes... often not a good sign>
I have a 55 gal, 60lbs. LR, crabs, T snails, a couple camel shrimp, and 4 damsel fish. I have recently added many supps every week consisting of,
Seachem's:
Reef Builder
Reef Advantage Strontium
Reef Advantage Magnesium
Reef Plus vitamins and amino acids
Reef complete
On the day after I add all these, I add Reef advantage Calcium
<How much of all this...?>
Yes, I have visited www.garf.org . This is where this novice has learned most of her stuff.
Am I all wet?? I need a site where I can find ANSWERS! So here I am, asking you for some help.
Thanks very much for your time!
Pam
<I will gladly help you (and all others) if I can... We may need to start "further back" in the set-up, history of this system. To expedite matters, get us ahead faster than "going back and forth" please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm
re troubleshooting... I would stop adding biominerals (Sr, Mg, even calcium) until you know about what these are concentration wise in your systems water... do you have an alkalinity test kit? A history/values of what this has been? I suspect this is low... The vitamins are fine to keep adding. We'll be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Re: Novice at work!
I went to the site Robert: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/suppleme.htm, and all I can say is,.........
WOW, lots of info, daunting, but I got the message! Maybe all my supplements are NOT a good thing.
<Decidedly not... many have negative reactions with each other...>
But it's very difficult when you are new to the Reef World.
There is so much info out there, it's hard to sort out the 'truth of the matter' .
<Everything... is difficult at first my friend.>
Maybe the best way to do this is to ask, "Is he selling something"? www.garf.org does sell, but they are also very
knowledgeable as far as I can see. I'll stick with you Robert for the time being,
<Do not "stick" with "either of us"... but decide always for yourself on the basis of your understanding>
you appear to be the most dedicated, informative, knowledgeable and passionate person I've seen out there in the great WWW. I love your site and have made it my Home Page. So, this means you'll be hearing from me often!
Pam
<I look forward to our sharing. Bob Fenner>
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