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FAQs about Trachyphylliid Coral
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition Related
Articles: Trachyphylliid Corals,
Trachyphyllia Reproduction Report,
Related FAQs: Open Brain Coral 1,
Open Brain Coral 2, Trachyphylliid
Identification, Trachyphylliid
Behavior, Trachyphylliid Selection,
Trachyphylliid Compatibility,
Trachyphylliid Systems,
Trachyphylliid Disease,
Trachyphylliid Reproduction, Stony Corals,
Stonies 2, Stonies 3,
LPS Stony Corals, Coral System Set-Up,
Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral
Selection, Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation, Stony
Coral Behavior, | 
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Gut Rot!
Open Brain Coral/Feeding 3/23/09
Hey Bob and crew,
<Hiya Justin>
I feed my open brain corals every other day. All are very healthy. I
heard that feeding LPS corals and Anenomes to much can cause "Gut Rot"?
Is feeding them 3-4x/week to much???
<Never heard that term before, but to answer your question, a couple of
feedings a week is plenty as they derive most of their nutrition by way
of photosynthesis.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Trachyphylliid fdg. 10/8/08 Good afternoon
Crew, <Yawn... howdy!> Hope all are well, <Yes, thank you
Shawn> I have had an Open Brain Coral for some time, feeding his one
and only mouth 3 to 4 times a week. I recently purchased a second Open
Brain which has 3 different mouths. I have been searching your archives
but can find nothing telling me if each mouth must be fed or if feeding
1 will sustain the coral. I hope this is not a silly question, but I
would rather be safe than sorry. <Not silly, and a good idea to
proffer some food to all mouths> I would also like to say that this
is a fantastic site that has helped me through a multitude of problems.
Thanks in advance, Shawn <Glad we have been of assistance. Bob
Fenner> Re: Help with nitrates please!!! 9/22/08
I'll try smaller pieces. How much nutrition do brain corals get from
photosynthesis - enough to make it solely on that alone? <These
corals are photosynthetic. Feeding once a week or so is recommended,
some do not feed at all and rely on the refugium/system to provide food.
You will see better results with controlled feedings.> Thanks
John <Welcome, talk soon, Scott V.>
Trachyphyllia geoffroyi... and ... Wellsophyllia radiata (Feeding
Requirements?) - 04/01/08 Hi Crew - <<Howdy, Gene>> I
recently purchased two beautiful open brain corals; one a super neon
green the other a very cool tri-color. <<Neat!>> I did a lot
of research on these corals before purchasing them but much has
changed with regard to these corals and I am getting a lot of
conflicting information on feeding as well (dated materials).
<<We’re learning more all the time, but even so I’m sure you are
aware of the differing experiences and opinions that abound in the
hobby>> For example, it was well thought for some time that there
were two species the Trachyphyllia geoffroyi (the one thought to be
closer to the water’s surface and needed more light) and
Wellsophyllia radiata (the one thought to require lower light and
deeper water). <<Mmm, yes…and Bob describes the latter as “nomen
nudum” or “naked name” which in taxonomy means it has not been
adequately “described”>> Now it's pretty much understood that
both are really one species and light and flow requirements are the
same. <<And based on “where” on the reef the specimen was
collected…information sadly lacking in the trade as yet>> Also,
it was always understood that these corals need to be on a sandy
substrate and now it's understood they can be on rock as well.
<<Again dictated by……..>> None of this is concern for me and is
understood. Where I do have a question is feeding care. For example;
my coral provider does not target feed his brains. <<As a
retailer or as a hobbyist? As the former…likely reasons of
economics/turnover. As the latter…likely misinformed>> Then I
read, depending upon the publication, that they should be target fed
5 times a week, or 2 times a week, or 2 times a month ... or never
depending upon the tank. <<Hee-hee! We having fun yet!?>> In a
WWM search on this subject Bob Fenner writes: "I suggest no more
than twice weekly feedings of Open Brain Corals... other
authors/aquarists only advise one or two times a month. Meaty foods
(fish flesh, crustaceans, shellfish) or chunky size can be placed at
night right on the animal’s tentacles. Still other writers and
hobbyists apply or rely on their systems, refugiums to produce
sufficient planktonic food for their Open Brains... I encourage you
to expressly feed yours." <<Hard to go wrong with Bob’s advice. I
agree for the most part…though I prefer a “minced” diet to “chunky”
foods for these corals>> I use the Ecosystem method with a 65g DT
and 35g refugium feeding my tank DT's and freeze dried Cyclopes when
I target feed my orange Sun Cups each night. <<The Cyclops-Eeze
would also be a good food for the Brain Corals, in my opinion…along
with Mysis Shrimp, minced Clam, Glass Worms, etc.>> I also feed
my fish twice a day with a homemade source of sea foods, vitamins...
So, am I good with Bob's recommendation of "no more than twice
weekly feedings?" <<Okay>> Or should I do more like 5 times as
is also written elsewhere in WWM? <<Let the corals be the
deciding factor… Feed them twice a week for a while and see how
things go…if the corals are doing fine, then I don’t see any need to
increase the feedings>> Just your best recommendation is greatly
appreciated in this ever changing hobby! <<Ha! And that is the
“best” I can do>> Thanks so much. Gene <<Happy to share.
Eric Russell>>
Re:
Trachyphyllia geoffroyi... and ... Wellsophyllia radiata feeding
care? - Take II – 04/1/08 Hi Crew - Just found this on WWM;
note the recommendation to feed only one a "once every few weeks..."
or Bob Fenner at "twice a week"...? <Yes... So? BobF>
Trachyphyllia feeding - 1/24/08 Hello. I have a green "open brain
coral" (*Trachyphyllia geoffroyi** *I believe) that I have had now
for about 2 years. I feed it 2-3 times a week, usually a few Mysis
shrimp or frozen reef zoo plankton and on occasion fish food (New
Life Spectrum). I noticed that from time to time (maybe once or
twice a month) that the coral looks very deflated and "skinny" and
is expelling what looks like fish excrement into the water. From
what I understand expelling waste back into the water is pretty
normal, but I can't help but wonder if I am doing something wrong.
The coral just looks pitiful and starved with all it's "skeleton"
showing through it's tissue almost as if it's been slowly
deteriorating and dying over time. I always get worried but the
coral returns to its normal healthy "fluffy" self within a day or
so. Is this normal for it to look this way or is it a reaction to
something unfavourable in its environment or food? <Jon, it is a
common misconception that Trachyphyllia need feeding often, true
they benefit from feeding but this need only be every few weeks. It
may just be overfeeding leading to excess waste, as most of the
coral's energy will be gained from suitable lighting. It would also
be interesting to monitor if the reaction is linked to a particular
food source?! Frozen food is very high in Phosphate also and feeding
unwashed food may lead to high phosphate concentration exposure in
the digestive system of the coral. Many possibilities and unless the
skeleton shows through fully i.e. white calcareous visible, then all
should be fine (you've cared for it for two years so you're
obviously onto a winning formula), just lessen the feeding and enjoy
what are my favourite Genus of coral!> Thank you for help Jon
<Olly>
Re: Trachyphyllia geoffroy... and ... Wellsophyllia radiata feeding
care? - Take II – 04/02/08 Bob F. - Just confused by the
conflicting info on a good feeding cycle for my brains. Twice a week
then as you suggest or as was posted on WWM on 1/28/08 "the
misconception" and need to be fed once every few weeks? <Ahh! I
see> Seems like a big divergence here in the consult. <Mmm,
not so much... there are folks of the opinion not to expressly feed
most "corals" period... though all Scleractinians do "eat" to
degrees...> I do like twice a week BTW and they do seem happy.
Thanks, Gene <This "happiness" is most important. Cheers,
BobF> |
Trachyphyllia feeding - 1/24/08 Hello. I have a green "open brain
coral" (*Trachyphyllia geoffroyi** *I believe) that I have had now for
about 2 years. I feed it 2-3 times a week, usually a few Mysis shrimp or
frozen reef zoo plankton and on occasion fish food (New Life Spectrum).
I noticed that from time to time (maybe once or twice a month) that the
coral looks very deflated and "skinny" and is expelling what looks like
fish excrement into the water. From what I understand expelling waste
back into the water is pretty normal, but I can't help but wonder if I
am doing something wrong. The coral just looks pitiful and starved with
all it's "skeleton" showing through it's tissue almost as if it's been
slowly deteriorating and dying over time. I always get worried but the
coral returns to its normal healthy "fluffy" self within a day or so. Is
this normal for it to look this way or is it a reaction to something
unfavourable in its environment or food? <Jon, it is a common
misconception that Trachyphyllia need feeding often, true they benefit
from feeding but this need only be every few weeks. It may just be
overfeeding leading to excess waste, as most of the coral’s energy will
be gained from suitable lighting. It would also be interesting to
monitor if the reaction is linked to a particular food source?! Frozen
food is very high in Phosphate also and feeding unwashed food may lead
to high phosphate concentration exposure in the digestive system of the
coral. Many possibilities and unless the skeleton shows through fully
i.e. white calcareous visible, then all should be fine (you’ve cared for
it for two years so you’re obviously onto a winning formula), just
lessen the feeding and enjoy what are my favourite Genus of coral!>
Thank you for help Jon <Olly> Feed Me
Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and torch coral feeding problem, 1/29/07
Hello guys, <Hi there Mark, Mich with you tonight.> Gotta say, I
found your site a couple of weeks ago and have been reading through a
lot of the FAQ's ever since and it's an amazing service that you
provide! Great job!! <Welcome to WWM, glad you found us!> I have
an open brain coral and a torch coral. The open brain seems to be doing
just ok. We've had it for about 2.5 months now and it hasn't grown at
all. It has these spikes (don't know the right word for it) that are all
around the circumference and some of them are white now. The store told
us to feed this phytoplankton powder stuff (please forgive the spelling
if it is wrong) for all of our corals. <Less than ideal.> I've
been reading on your site that we need to be feeding both the torch and
brain corals with meat like krill or shrimp. Is this phytoplankton stuff
sufficient? <Mmm, not really, there are better options out there.>
I've been trying the meat at night about an hour after the lights go out
but the little mouths aren't opening any more at night, and before the
corals have a chance at the meat, the cleaner shrimp come along and
steal the food. <Oh yes, been there, done that, and exercise in
frustration so sure.> The torch coral is fairing less. It is turning
white and the white is working it's way from the base of each torch and
working it's way out to the end where the mouths are. I've been having
the same problem with it since I've been trying to feed meat lately, the
shrimp come along and steal it. Do you have any suggestions for how to
feed these guys without the shrimp coming along and stealing it?
<Yes, you will need to temporarily move these corals to try to rehab
them. Frozen mysis shrimp soaked in Selcon would be a good food
source. Use only the meaty parts, the liquid will just produce excess
nutrients in your tank. They need to be somewhere that the shrimp can
not steal the food, one way of doing this is to place them high in the
tank and keeping vigil over them while you are feeding them, scooting
the shrimp away if need be. I've also tried temporarily covering them
during feeding time, but did not find this method terribly successful.
These corals are not doing well, tissue recession is never a good
sign. You will need to be pretty vigilant to bring them back to
health. How are your calcium levels? Have you been doing frequent
water changes? If not, now is the time to start.>
Also, I've been reading that the open brain coral should be placed
on the substrate, and it always has been, but the torch coral is placed
on some rocks about mid way up the tank. We have a 90gal with VHO
lighting, 2-40watt 10K blue actinic lights and 2-40watt 10K actinic
white lights. <This is contributing to your problems. This is not
enough light. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
Please consider adding light to you tank if you plan on keeping
corals. Your ballast should be able to handle bigger bulbs if you are
truly running a VHO setup and not just a normal output system.> The
blues come on an hour before the whites and stay on an hour after the
whites. Is this placement all wrong for the torch coral, should it be on
the substrate as well? <Not necessarily, at this point these corals
need intensive care.> Also, just FYI in case, the tank params are:
ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 25, <I hope you mean 0.25 ppm here.>
phosphates .2, calcium 460, alkalinity 4.5, <Elevated, less than 3.5
meq is desirable.> and PH 8.1. Thanks for all of your help!! <You're
welcome!> Mark Re: Feed Me
Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and Torch coral feeding problem 1/29/07
<Hello Mark, Mich with you again.> Thanks for the tips!!
<Welcome! I hope they help, and if you figure out something better,
please share!> Here's some clarifications/questions to your
responses. I was incorrect on the lighting, they are not 40 watt, they
are actually the 48" 110 watt Coralife VHO bulbs. I must have thinking
of my garage lights, DOH!! <Heeheee! Something seemed
inconsistent...> That should be enough for the size tank we have I
would think... <Yes, much more appropriate.> We do
frequent water changes, 90 gal. tank about 18-20 gals changed per
every 2 weeks. <Very good.> For the alkalinity, the Sea Chem
test kit we have says it should be between 4 and 6 meq. I've been
buffering it up to just a bit into that range since it also says natural
sea water is between 2 and 3 meq. I figure it shouldn't be at the other
end of the 4-6 range. I can back off a bit, but then pH drops to
7.9-8.0, too low from what I've been reading. <Nah, keep doing what
your doing.> I will give your suggestions a try on the feeding. It
looks like the corals mouths are open tonight, so hopefully they
will eat good! <And well too!> Thanks for your help!! You guys
are great!! <You're welcome! Not great, just trying to make the
world a little bit better. -Mich> Mark Response to Feed
Me Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and torch coral feeding problem,
2/16/07 Hey WWM, <Hi there Johnny! Mich here.>
I was recently doing my nightly browsing of your site and came across
someone's question Feed Me Seymour!!! Trachyphyllia and torch coral
feeding problem, 1/29/07 and thought that I may be of some assistance.
Pretty sure other people probably use this method, but in order for me
to keep my fish and shrimp from stealing the food off my Trachy, I cut
off the top of a Gatorade Bottle about 4 to 5 inches down from the
mouth. I rinsed it thoroughly to get out all the additives and
glue from the label. Now, my open brain is bigger than the bottle
circumference but with a little coxing it will retract and allow me to
put the bottle over him and allow me to drop the chopped Shrimp or
silversides onto the mouths with out the thieves getting to it. Hope
this Helps... <Thank you for sharing. -Mich> Johnny Droste
Worried bout my open brain 10/2/06 Hey guys/gals, I
love reading your faq's they are very helpful. First my tank
parameters I have a 25 Gal tank with 2x 65 CoraLife Pc's 1 10K 1 03
Antic, my salinity is 1.025, PH 8.2, alk 11, ammonia is 0 nitrates
0, this is a coral only tank no fish. My question is about my
Trachyphylliid I have had him for over a month. I feed him 2 krill
2 to 3 times a week and i feed DT's once a week he has awesome
expansion and seems healthy, but the other day this white stuff came
out of his mouth (refer to pic) I blew it off with my turkey baster
gently and it has came back do you guys know what this is?
<Looks like egested food-waste... Cnidarians only have one
opening/exit to their lumens/gastrovascular cavities... I'd "fish
out" (siphon, net) this waste. Bob Fenner> | 
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Re: Trachyphyllia.. nutrition, health... RMF career 7/22/05 Good
day Bob or whoever I may be speaking to today....I hope all is going
great today... I have several things to throw your way today...I'm
sorry if I've got a repeat question thrown in here. In regards
to my Trachyphyllia: When food is offered to it, the mouths close
up. Except when I offered plankton. I haven't ever seen sweeper
tentacles come out (even when it was doing normal cycles), Do you
think it may be getting the nutrients it needs by me taking a
plastic syringe and gently directing fine meaty foods at it... even
without the presence of the tentacles? <Possibly, yes> The algae
that is forming on small parts of the skeleton... could I try to
gently remove it somehow or would this be advised against?
<Directing a stream of water... as with a powerhead or small submersible
pump is all I would do... don't physically touch> Is Iodide harmful
to any marine animals or corals if used properly (that you are aware
of)? <Not unless overdosed> I've got a rock that had several
mushroom corals growing, a piece of the rock broke off leaving one
of the mushrooms attached to the original rock as well as the broken
off piece. Is it best to let it be (it is hanging, I've propped it
back up but it wont stay) or someone recommended I should just tear
it off the original rock :( sounds painful but I'm not sure it feels
pain like that? :) <I would "tear it off", move it to someplace
safe, stable> Thank you in helping me on my journey, I swear I'm not
trying to be hand fed... I just need a little help with this
predicament (the brain). And the other questions are just thrown in
there... my main concern is my brain though! On a bit of a more
social level...what is your favorite dive location? <Mmm, there's a
bunch... overall, the Red Sea likely> Bob... do you go and speak at
seminars <Almost every month... for the last few decades... to hobby
groups mainly, in the pet-fish and dive/adventure interests> or am I
interpreting some info wrong.... at one point in one of your
responses to someone's questions it sounded like you do seminars, if
you do...have you ever found yourself in Indiana? <I think
so...> One more personal/social question... what is your career...
How do you make it possible to go on all these wonderful diving
journeys? Thanks guys!!! Codie S. <Good, friendly
questions... I do five "things" for money, including two that are
petfish related... am a content provider, selling writing and
photography... But really, am retired in terms of having to "do" work...
invested a part of what I earned, in stocks in good companies, real
property... so I can/do travel about half the year. And I do encourage
you to take up the dive, travel habit as well! Thank you for asking,
sharing. Bob Fenner>
Coral questions Hi, <Graham at
your service.> I have a couple questions and can't find the answers
in your FAQs. The first one: I have read about open brains and
different scientific names. I have a Wellsophyllia; is this an open
brain? <Yes. Most likely your brain coral is in the genus
Trachyphyllia.> Also, does my Wellsophyllia need to be fed, and if so
what? <The Brain coral will benefit from regular feedings, however,
it's not needed. If you wish to feed your coral, you can try to feed the
coral at night when its feeder tentacles are out. Once these tentacles
are out, you can place several small pieces of krill within these
tentacles and the brain should consume the food. Silversides and
lancefish may also work.> Another quick question. What do you
recommend to feed Fungia and what do you find to be the best method.
<If you feed your fish regularly, most likely the plate will be catching
food particles. You can also place small pieces of meaty foods (krill,
silversides, squid, etc.) within the plates tentacles. The tentacles
should then push the food towards the central mouth where the food is
then consumed.> Do frogspawn need to be fed as well or is good
lighting sufficient (I have 1 250 watt metal halide and two 36 watt
actinic bulbs in a 75 gallon corner tank). <As I stated above, they
will benefit from regular feedings, although it isn't necessary. If you
choose to feed the coral, do so the same as you would as I described
above with the plate coral.> Thanks!! <Take Care, Graham!>
Andrew Coralline Algae Growth Hello Crew! <Hello,
Ryan with you today> Just can't seem to find the answer to these in
the FAQ's (sometimes TOO MUCH good information to find a specific
question). <I know! It's a bit overwhelming at times> 1. I have an
open brain coral that I feed meaty treats (shrimp, clam, squid) 3
times per week. I noticed that it has 3 mouth-like structures that I
put the food directly into and it gets sucked in. I have to stand
guard else my ever hungry clowns will snatch the food up. Is it
necessary to feed each mouth? Can I just feed one or two of them and
the nutrients will get shared to the entire organism? The third is a
little hard to see/reach and this direct feeding method is the
only way I have found to feed it without others in the tank (clowns,
shrimp) snatching the food for themselves. <The more each mouth eats,
the better the entire colony will grow. Corals grow in a very
deliberate way; To make the most of a certain environment. This said, I
would either move the brain so that you can feed the entire thing, or
make the extra effort. As for snatching, it's highly frustrating. Will
a fish feeding just before will keep them distracted long enough?>
2. On my live rock, I have tons of coralline algae growing. Colors
of purple, maroon, red, green and pink. On my glass, pumps and base
rock (Tufa), I only have one shade of purple growing. I would really
like a mix of colors. Any ideas on how to encourage this process
or why only one is spreading from the live rock to other areas?
<One is outperforming the others at this given time. What's your
calcium level? Some varieties of coralline won't grow unless high
calcium levels are met. It's just a matter of luck, time and
patience. Perhaps you could graft the variety you like to unclaimed
territory before the more aggressive types have the opportunity?>
Thanks a lot. You guys are a real credit to the hobby and I would be
lost without you (or it least I would not have such a wonderful
tank). <Great to hear! Hope this helps, and good luck- Ryan> -Ray
Can I feed my brain too much? Hi there- May I say again how
much I love your site? <Sure!...and Thanks!> I really
appreciate the resource. I actually have five questions for
you. My tank is about 5 months old, 46 gallon, protein skimmer,
Eheim filter, halite lights. I do weekly 10% water changes. Ammon,
nitrates, and nitrites are 0, salinity is 1.024. I have two
perculas, one magenta Dottyback (eats my little Bristleworms, by the
way), a cleaner shrimp, and various blue-legged hermits and
snails. I have a frogspawn and a hammer and a brain and some star
polyps. They have all seemed to have adjusted well, and colors and
extension are good, and they have all grown a little bit. Here are
my questions: 1) My brain coral is a pig. I feed the corals Mysis
shrimp weekly, and I'm not sure how much the brain would eat at one
sitting. It is about 4" in diameter, and I give it about a dozen
shrimp. Should I keep feeding until it stops engulfing? It is
growing the most. <I would err on the side of caution here, and
underfeed. If it's growing, it's happy, and overfeeding can pollute
your tank.> 2) I had not been feeding my star polyp shrimp because I
thought it was a vegetarian. I accidentally dropped one on it a
week ago, and it snatched it up, so I gave it about 3 more. Now it
doesn't look so perky. Did I make it sick? <Doubtful. GSPs go
through cycles of closing up for no apparent reason sometimes. If it
stays closed up for long, then start to worry.> 3) My cleaner shrimp
has molted 4 times in two months. Is this bad for its health?
<Not at all. Good sign that it's growing and thriving.> I do
supplement with iodine and the calcium level is about 600 (high, I
know. Trying to solve) Should I be doing anything else for it? It
eats like a pig, too. I thought these guys were supposed to by shy...
<The iodine addition is completely unnecessary IME, but it could be
helping. If paired with another shrimp these guys can molt as often as
two weeks after they spawn. Just need to feed them well.> 4) The
tank has developed a bad hairy algae problem. Do I have room to add
something that would eat it, and if so, what would you recommend?
<Rather than adding something to consume it, consider fixing the root of
the problem--nutrients in your water. Do you use RO/DI for top off and
water changes? What size skimmer do you have? Are you overfeeding?>
5) My tank evaporates almost 2 gallons a day (probably because of the
hot lights). Does this replacement water count towards water
changes, by chance? <Nope. Are you adding any type of
calcium/alkalinity supplement?> Thanks again. By the way, my frog
spawn continues to excrete brown goo after shrimp feeding day. (I
asked earlier if it was coral excrement) It seems to be doing really
well, too. My perculas have started to host with it. <Possibly
'coral poo', yes.> --Jill <Cheers, Matt>
Feeding of open brain coral (Trachyphyllia) Hello, <Cheers,
Anthony Calfo in your service> I purchased a nice green open brain
coral this past Saturday. In going over the archives, I saw a
recommendation by Mr. Fenner that they be expressly fed a few times per
month. <not correct... reread, my friend. He suggests twice weekly/8
times monthly: "Foods/Feeding/Nutrition: I suggest no more than twice
weekly feedings of Open Brain Corals... other authors/aquarists only
advise one or two times a month. Meaty foods (fish flesh, crustaceans,
shellfish) or chunky size can be placed at night right on the animals
tentacles. Still other writers and hobbyists apply or rely on their
systems, refugiums to produce sufficient planktonic food for their Open
Brains... I encourage you to expressly feed yours."> I purchased a
package of frozen chopped clams. Last night, around 10:00 PM, I cut off
a piece of the chopped clams, defrosted it in a Dixie cup of water from
my tanks sump, and drained it through a stainless steel strainer (used
exclusively for my tanks). I then gently placed the chopped clam onto
the brain coral, over where the tentacles are. The clam stayed put
for about three minutes before water currents finally carried it away to
the bottom -- where about five or six Nassarius snails had a banquet!
<first of all...make sure all food is finely chopped... LPS coral will
often regurgitate large chunks of meat in the night and die of attrition
much to their keepers surprise who thought they were feeding well.
Secondly, simply add a tiny bit of meaty juice fifteen minutes before
feeding to get feeding tentacles to come out so that the brain can sting
and draw food later> The tentacles were not open when I fed it. I
have noticed that the tentacles are open during the day. They come out
within minutes of my turning on the lights in the morning. If they do
open at night, it may be at some ungodly hour when I am not awake. I do
not believe that I can feed the brain coral during the day because if I
do, the fish will undoubtedly go after the clams. <fine... use the
juice feeding trick just prior to the organismal feeding> The coral
is not on the substrate. I have it placed in a section of my Marshall
Island rock about 4-5 inches above the substrate. <wow... most
likely a very bad place. Unnatural, risks to soft tissue from daily
polyp cycles and the animal also derives necessary nutrition from the
microclimate on the substrate. Please place the skeleton in the sand as
it no doubt occurred naturally> It is facing straight up. I placed it
there to make sure that it was getting good lighting. The tank it
came from at my LFS was much shallower than my tank. Did I do something
wrong? Any advice on how to best go about feeding my open brain coral
the frozen chopped clams? <please do feed a better variety of meats
than just clams> My plan is to feed the brain coral once per week.
<I believe the coral will starve to death in time on this schedule...
Twice weekly feeding minimum IMO> Your help is, as always, greatly
appreciated. Sincerely, Mark Schwartz <best regards, Anthony Calfo>
Re: Feeding of open brain coral (Trachyphyllia) Anthony, Thanks
for the reply. I tried again tonight and -- success!! <excellent!>
It ate. I'm psyched! After it took in all the clams, there were more
tentacles out than I have ever seen. It was pretty wild. <and so
beautiful in a whole new dimension that many folks rarely see> I will
place the clam on the substrate tomorrow morning. I will also be sure to
feed twice per week, and I will make it a point to purchase other food
items, chopped squid, etc. <yes...variety is the spice of life>
Thank you *very* much for your assistance. <my pleasure> It's
rather hard to believe that feeding a 5 inch wide green lump some clams
could make me happy!? <your modesty is enviable> Sincerely, Mark
Schwartz <best regards, Anthony>
Feeding of Trachyphyllia radiata Gentlemen, <cheers> I
purchased a Trachyphyllia radiata two days ago. My question concerns
feeding. I have a red open brain that clearly exhibits feeding
tentacles at night, <the deeper water variety... green is more
shallow water. T. radiata and T. geoffroyi are now synonymous species>
which is when I feed it (at least twice a week -- chopped clams
and/or shrimp). <almost certainly not enough food for the coral to
live 5+ years (although likely enough for a couple of years. 3-5 times
weekly if not daily for most> The Trachyphyllia radiata is *much*
larger during the day than at night. <it is more effectively
photosynthetic (by variety not by virtue of its size)> In fact, I am
amazed that the amount of 'flesh' that is exhibited by day can be
successfully withdrawn into its skeleton at night. It's only been
two days, but I have not seen any feeder tentacles. <much more time
is needed for many corals to acclimate to new light and water quality...
be patient> At a LFS, they have an Elegance coral that must be
fed by day, as it closes up at night. <all such corals can be
enticed to feed most anytime with the right food/attractant> Is
the Trachyphyllia radiata the same way, i.e., <nit by nature at
all. All of these LPS feed on zooplankton by night> I must feed it
during the day while it is 'fleshy', or will it normally display
feeding tentacles nocturnally, like my red open brain. <only the
feeding tentacles will effectively sting and draw organismal matter.
Careful not to feed large chunks of food either... very finely minced is
critical else the coral will draw it in but regurgitate it later and
still starve> I am anxious to make sure this specimen feeds on a good
meal of clam or shrimp. <more variety in the diet too please:
frozen Gammarus, mysids and Pacifica plankton for starters> Also, the
clerk who sold me the Trachyphyllia radiata said that he uses a
technique in his reef tank that consists of taking freeze dried
shrimp pellets and soaking them in Selcon or Vita-Chem, and
feeding these to his corals. <OK> Once fully saturated, they sink
quite easily and stay in place quite well. I just haven't had any
luck getting the Trachyphyllia radiata to take these or finely
chopped clams. I was just wondering about your thoughts on vitamin
soaked freeze dried <whatever> as a food adjunct to go along with
finely chopped clams, shrimp, squid, etc. FD foods are strange fare
to offer and the risk of air trapping is mild but worth mentioning.
Soaking the food in Selcon is an excellent idea though. Rely on thawed
frozen meats of marine origin> Sincerely, Mark Schwartz <best
regards, Anthony PS: if it interests you... see the following article
on Trach reproduction http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyreproart.htm>
T. radiata brain coral Anthony, <cheers!> The other day I
wrote in regarding my new T. radiata. I have been watching it at
night, and I have noticed fine hair-like tentacles (?) coming out
from it. At first I thought it was stringy feces, but I see it
every night. <perhaps simply sweeper tentacles... released when
stimulated by another coral nearby (guaranteed for those within say 6")>
Last night I placed some finely chopped clams onto the "strings". They
grabbed and pulled in the clam, but it remained tethered to the side
of the coral -- it never actually tried to eat any of the clam.
<hmmm... supports the sweeper (defensive not feeding) tentacle idea>
I have had my red open brain for about 5 months, and I know what it's
tentacles look like. I also have a tongue (plate) coral, and I know
what it's tentacles look like. <understood... they are
conspicuous> (Side note -- I will up my feeding frequency to 3 days
per week, minimum. In your opinion, is squid any good as a food
source? <squid is reasonable... but do include crustacea in the
diet... more natural/necessary as like substitutes for zooplankton:
Gammarus, mysids, Pacifica plankton, shredded krill, etc)> I can get
frozen clams, shrimp, and squid quite easily. My only concern is
that squid can be, or actually is, rubbery.) <no worries here...
protein> Exactly what should I be looking for, feeding tentacle wise,
with my T. radiata? If those stringy, hair-like 'things' are
tentacles, how do you recommend feeding it? They look awfully
delicate. <watch your hands too... if one of those modified tentacles
finds a small wound (hangnail, paper cut, etc) it will light you up like
a Christmas tree. Small risk of anaphylactic shock from repetitive hits>
Sincerely, Mark Schwartz <kindly, Anthony> Re: T. radiata
brain coral Anthony, I don't suppose you broke into my home
and looked at my tank? :-) <yep... you are almost out of milk and
there's no more minced garlic in the fridge, by the way> I noticed
that as soon as the lights went off, two things happened: 1) My red
open brain shrank back into it's skeleton. 2) Those long tentacles
(of the T. radiata) were reaching and touching the open brain. They
were spaced about 5" apart. <just familiar/experienced... The essence
of an educated guess I suppose :)> I moved the red open brain out of
range this morning. <very fine, my friend> You guys don't miss
much -- which is good -- because I am quite sure that I have a few more
mistakes left in me! <no problem... we can talk for hours> Anyway,
are the feeder, not sweeper, tentacles of T. radiata similar to those of
T. geoffroyi? <the two Types that you refer to are now classified as
synonymous. The genus Trachyphyllia is monotypic... one representative:
T. geoffroyi As you have noticed, though... two members of the (now)
same species do not necessarily tolerate each other. In fact, most
corals are not tolerant of a member from another colony> What should
I be looking for? Appearance? Location? <just a matter of acclimation
and time before it too puts out feeder tentacles. Acclimation to new
light and water flow> I acquired a small eye dropper with which I can
target feed Mysis shrimp and Sweetwater zooplankton. <very
cool... remember to thaw food in saltwater and to feed from a distance
(bursts of water scare some corals in)> Thanks a bunch. Sincerely,
Mark Schwartz <best regards, Anthony> Green Open Brain
Starving Hello there, My green open brain coral that I have had
for about 3.5 months has taken a drastic turn for the worse. Up until
about 2 weeks ago it was opening up and looking real good. As of
tonight, it looks as though I can see the skeleton all the way around
it. <this is a very common symptom with unfed brains... although
they have symbiotic algae, they are one of the "hungriest" corals (they
regular feeding several times weekly with VERY finely minced meats of
marine origin) just to survive, let alone grow. Try mysids, pacific
plankton or shred your own meats. They must be less than 1/4" in size
(very fine)> My water checks good, ph@8.1, dKH@8.6, ca@400, specific
gravity 1.025. My iodine level is at 0.06. <that pH needs to be
higher if that is a daytime reading (drops even lower at night)> I
looked all around the outside and didn't see any signs of gel or
something that might be drilling into it. It is sitting about 1/3 of the
way up in the tank, under 2 10000k metal halides (175w), and 2 40w
florescent actinics. Don't know what's going on!!!! <although green
open brains are higher light loving than red open brains (deep water),
they are still a low to mid light coral. Still... yours has probably
acclimated and if no paling or bleaching has occurred, please leave it
where it is... a move right now might kill it (change in light: bad)>
Any advice will certainly be appreciated. Thanks, Charlie Ehlers
PS I started feeding it frozen Mysid shrimp at about the same time.
It seemed to take the shrimp well. I only fed it 3 times in a period of
2-3 weeks. Did I feed to much? <there is the problem my friend. Not
enough feeding by far. In a lower light aquarium, 3 times weekly might
still not be enough food for this animal to survive (reach its
compensation point). More feeding! Anthony>
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