Non-white Lymphocystis?
Hi, all,
My LFS has a nice looking Potter's angel that is eating and behaving well. I'm considering it for my 45G reef tank which has my Sebae plus some zoanthids and corallimorphs. I realize it might pick on the zoanthids but I'm probably going to pull those anyway.
However, this angel has some swellings or growths on its dorsal fin that, to my eye, look similar to Lymphocystis except that it is not white; just the normal potter's angel coloration (and perhaps not has rough surfaced as Lymphocystis; hard to tell). My LFS owner, who I've known for years and consider as reliable as anyone is who is trying to sell me something says he has seen this before and thinks it is swelling possibly related to capture and will go down on its own.
<Likely so... if it lives... This is one of the least hardy species of Centropyge for aquarium use...>
Any idea what this is? I'm only familiar with white Lymphocystis. Can it occurred colored?
<Rare... usually gray to white>
Or are there similar viral infections that leave the flesh colored?
<Tumors of different sorts, etiologies, yes>
The fish would be quarantined but should I leave at the LFS until this disappears on its own?
<Not a good choice... for a 45 gallon system...>
I hate to pass up an otherwise well adjusted potter's angel, they seem pretty touchy. And I think the tank would make a good home for it; plenty to graze on and lots of LR.
<Will likely do better in your care than the LFS's... Bob Fenner>
From your FAQ if it is Lymphocystis, it doesn't seem high risk but it doesn't look like Lymphocystis to me.
Thanks,
Marc

The Emperor's New...Disease?
Hello my name is Ryan.
<Hey, Ryan! Scott F. with you!>
This is my second time writing with a question and I would like to thank you for the quick response and great information on the first. My question this time deals with a sick fish. The fish is an Emperor angel and he has developed some white clumpy regions around his face and also going on down his back. I read about Lymphocystis on your website and that was my best diagnosis. The spots are larger than ick and they almost have a pattern to them as they are only on the face and a straight line down the back. I prepared to let it run its course but some of the spots have gotten to the point where blood is showing around them. He has also stopped eating and is hanging out around the return flow from the filter. This makes me think that he may be having some respiratory problems.
<Lymphocystis generally clears up on it's own. On the other hand, the fact that your fish appears to be listless, hanging in front of the filter return seems to be indicative of something more serious, IMO. In fact, the difficulty in breathing suggests the possibility of Amyloodinium. The spots may be the damage caused to the fish's tissue by the parasite. The tissue is essentially being liquefied. I would take the risk and operate under the assumption that this is the illness which you are dealing with. You must take quick action to save the fish's life.>
Should I quarantine and treat? If so, what should I use? I hate to stress him out any more. I really need some help.
<The first thing that I would do is read up on Amyloodinium to verify if this is what you're dealing with. Once you're satisfied that this is the case, I'd opt to remove the affected fish to a separate aquarium, and commence treatment with a commercial copper sulphate preparation, following the instructions of the product exactly. You may want to incorporate a freshwater drip prior to commencing the copper treatment. If this is Amyloodinium, it may be necessary to remove all fishes from the aquarium, and let the tank run fallow for about a month. This disease is highly contagious, and often fatal if left untreated. Monitor copper levels and observe the fish continuously during this period of time, maintain high water quality, and good aeration. Hopefully, with quick, decisive action, you'll beat this disease!>
Thank you so much for your help. Keep up the great website! I have learned some much from your wonderful work. Thanks again! ~ Ryan
<We're always glad to help, Ryan. I hope that, if we're right about this diagnosis, your fish makes a full recovery. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

The Emperor's New...Disease (Pt2)
Ryan again. Thanks again for the quick response. I did what you suggested and did a little research on Amyloodinium. I sure hope that is not what I am dealing with!
<Me, too!>
As of now I am a little unsure. Everything that I read said that Amyloodinium looks like a rusty like powder covering the fish's body and infected regions.
<That's usually correct...I'm a bit curious, though, about the apparent skin damage to the fish. I'm convinced that we may be dealing with some type of parasite here. maybe monogenetic trematodes, or, perhaps, even Microsporidean (a protozoan infection). >
This is not the case with my Emperor. He doesn't display any rusty discolorations, only the white raised regions that are about twice the size of ick spots. They do appear to be deep into the skin and he does have some cloudiness in his eyes. I am not sure where to go from here. Can Amyloodinium present itself in this way?
<Amyloodinium does cause cloudy eyes and labored breathing.> Also it doesn't seem to be spreading to any of the other fish and from what I have read Amyloodinium is highly contagious.
<Correct!>
I did a water change and it seemed to help but my water quality has never been a problem (pH: 8, NH3: 0, NO2: 0, NO3: 10). I
attached a couple of pictures.
<Sorry, Ryan, I couldn't get them to open...>
I don't know if they are detailed enough or not but I need all the help I can get. Thanks a lot for the expert advice. It is very much appreciated ~ Ryan
<Well, Ryan, since we still don't have 100% ID on the illness here, we may have to attempt some "broad and simple" treatments, at least to get the fish on the road to recovery, without further stressing it. I'd start with freshwater dips, removal to a separate tank, and use of Methylene Blue, which is a very gentle (albeit not super effective) treatment. Perhaps these methods will turn the tide for this fish. If, however, more symptoms appear, or the symptoms are getting worse, I'd make my best guess as to the cause (assuming that it's a parasitic infection), and utilize copper sulphate, as per manufacturer's instructions. With labored breathing, and other symptoms present, this fish needs some help soon. Keep in touch- Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Re: Ocellaris Clown (disease)
Hello Sirs. Thank you again for all of the info. I'm writing to get your opinion on diagnosis/treatment of my false percula. After searching the site, I found a post that seemed pretty similar to my situation (as far as the symptoms). It goes:  
Brooklynella, Microsporidium, or Lymphocystis?
Hello,
I recently made the mistake of purchasing a large (3") Amphiprion ocellaris (common clownfish) from my local fish store. They had just received the animal when I purchased it, mistake number two. I added the clownfish to my newly cycled reef tank (mistake number three, biggest one). Within 24 hours I noticed a white wart/cauliflower growth on the animal's right side, in the white band area, just behind the gills. The clownfish will not eat and appears to be stagnant although it is moving about somewhat. The animal does not exhibit any other signs of infection, no small white spots, glazed or popping eyes, scratching, fin rot, and the like. What has infected my fish? I've narrowed it down to either Brooklynella, Microsporidium, or Lymphocystis or ? ? ? What can I do to cure the fish and save my reef tank. Should I remove the infected fish to prevent the disease from spreading to the other tank mates (choc chip star, scooter blenny, 2 turbo snails, 6 reef crabs)? Please advise, I want to save my tank and the clown if possible. thanks,
Dan Rose
Thank you for writing so well, including with such clarity and humility... Glad to know that I'm not the only one who makes egregious errors in the hobby...
I would almost bet that what you are seeing is indeed the Clown-attacking protozoan Brooklynella... And would in any case follow these steps.
Do take the fish out and treat it in a separate "hospital" system... for it's sake, the use of the treatment "medicine", and the safety from the same of the rest of your system. The likelihood that the Brooklynella will affect your other livestock is minimal (there are no other Clownfishes...)...
Copper is of little use if indeed this is Brooklynella, but formalin dips/baths are efficacious. Buy a stock solution (my fave retail brand is Kordon, but any will do)... generally a few drops per quart of pH adjusted (just with sodium bicarbonate, baking soda is fine) freshwater... and move the fish from the main tank into this solution for about ten minutes... either add an airstone, occasionally splash the water around for aeration), move the Clown to the bare-bottom (but still filtered, aerated.... with a hang on, sponge, box filter...) hospital/quarantine system... Dump the treatment water... repeat every day for three days... and stop there if there is no further visible sign of the disease... If it re-shows or persists, wait two days and resume the dip/baths...
This will work....  Bob Fenner
Well I thought that the "wart/white cauliflower" part definitely defined what has appeared on the very tip of the dorsal fin of my fish. I've had this fish about a month. 2 weeks in QT and 2 in main display. About 3 days after introduction into the main tank, I noticed a white spot about the size/shape of a grain of table sea salt (yum). Wasn't sure so I've been watching and reading in the meantime. In the last 10 days the spot has maybe grown by 25-50%, but has not spread to any other areas. It also has not spread to Pac Blue Tang. He (or she I'd suppose) was eating normally until yesterday when he/she started "sampling" then spitting out food (similar CMA recipe). Seems similar enough to enclosed post to warrant an email. Would this be a Brooklynella infection that would require the above recommended treatment?
<Mmm, the wart-like growth on the Clown could be lymph, the spot on both fishes is likely crypt, tangs don't "get" Brooklynella>
Other info:
125 gal, 90# LR (more coming when the $$ does), 200# LS, 240W NO fluor. lighting @13 hrs/day (MH with more $$ again), 2x Rio 1100 plus return for circulation, TF 1000 skimmer, sump w/ 55W PC lit 'fuge, airstone and active carbon. Today's parameters were pH-8.2, Ammonia-0, Nitrate- <5 ppm, Alk- 4.8 meq/L, Ca-350 ppm, Temp 77, SG-1.025
Other livestock:
1- Pacific Blue Tang, 1-sand sifting star, 12 bumblebee snails(?), 6-turbos, 12-astrea, 1- hitchhiker clam as of yet un-ID'd, misc hitchhiker polyps/sponges etc, and very soon 1- cleaner shrimp to be determined
<I would hasten the acquisition of the Cleaner Shrimp/s... maybe get more than one>
Hope this is enough/ not too much info. Thank you for your help and dedication to helping the rest of us become as informed as we can possibly be.
<Perhaps add a Gobiosoma Goby to the Cleaner list as well... otherwise nothing "stands out" as real trouble/cause here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ocellaris Clown (disease, Lymphocystis?)
Just to clarify, the tang is clean. Only the wart like growth on the clown's dorsal fin. Off now to find out about lymph and get those cleaners. Thanks
<Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

What's That White Lump? (3/13/04)
  Hello, new to the hobby and your site has been my lifeline, thank you. <Welcome to the club. This site helps me daily too. Steve Allen today.> I recently purchased a yellow tang. I believe it may have marine ich. Ich is described as looking like salt grains however, the white matter that is on this fish does not look at all similar to a grain of salt.  The fish of concern has a small, white, fleshy looking material that is on the edge of his tail and dangles off. Hope that you may know what this is. <Sounds more like Lymphocystis to me, which is basically viral fish warts. Search this term on WWM for pix and info.>  If it is ich, and I copper medicate the tank, what will be the short and long term effects on the live rock, and my BTA? <Death> Thank you again for helping so many of us hobbyists, your site should be disseminated along with every marine item ever sold.  Keith Tallbe
<Keith. Never put any medication in a display tank. Copper is the worst--quickly lethal to all inverts. Always treat in a hospital tank. You did not mention quarantine. You should quarantine all new fish in a separate tank for 4 weeks before putting them in the display. I can almost guarantee eventual disease, misery, and sorrow to all who skip this vital step. Read more on WWM.>

Banggai Cardinal tumor or parasite
Greetings!
<Howdy>
I'm new to your web site and recently purchased "Reef Inverts...". I've been impressed with both and want to get your 'take' on a problem that has recently developed with a single, large, relatively old (at least 3 years) female Banggai that I've had for at least two years. This female is in a 125 gal community tank with 3 other Banggai's and a variety of other reef fishes that I've kept successfully, and disease-free for more than four years. Over the past month, the female Banggai developed more labored breathing and, subsequently developed a small, white, fleshy, hornlike protuberance on its upper edge of the left operculum.
<Good observations, description>
I, then, noticed more fleshy 'growths' of this material under both opercula that caused them to 'flare out' slightly and they were visible further down the fishes gullet. No other fish (neither the other 3 Banggai's nor the other roughly 12 different species of fish in my tank have shown any similar signs of trouble.
<Okay>
I am familiar with the tendency of Banggai's to develop fleshy sores on their lower mandibles due to battles with other individuals. These always heal and the fish remains in good health. The problem Banggai, although its behavior seems to be, otherwise, unaffected appears to have developed some milkiness in its eyes, which I think may be due to the internal growths in its head region. The growths are strictly confined to its head. Do you think that this might be a tumor due to age of the fish, or do you think I may have a parasite or fungal problem? Your advise would be greatly appreciated!
Smooth Sailin'!
Bryan 
<I would side with your conjecture re tumor, age here. Naught to do... not "catching". Bob Fenner> 

-Lymph?- 
Kevin, Thanks for writing back. <No prob> 
Just in case it is a case issue....try this: http://www.zoyzoy.com/aquarium/images/clownwithskinsores.jpg  
<Yikes, those are some serious gashes> 
I have put ZERO copper in my tank as I intend to have a reef at some point. <Well there's no way that this fish has lymph, which usually appears on the fins as white blobs. The picture is great, good detail. It looks like they are physical wounds or some sort of sub-scale fungal infection. I'd hit it with a general antibiotic so they don't get infected, other than that I don't believe there's much you can do. -Kevin> 
Thanks, Jeff

Cotton like growth / Is this fungus?
Howzit Guys:
<Fine>
I really enjoy your site and I refer to it as my living marine encyclopedia.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and all your support.
<Welcome>
I have a 5" Heniochus that has developed a white fuzzy cotton like translucent growth about 1/32" round on one of her fins. All the rest of my fish are doing well (flame angel, yellow tang & 2 clowns) in a 100 gallon tank with live rock, 40 gallon sump w/ refugium & Chaeto, 4" sand base and protein skimmer which has been running almost 1 year.
I would like to say it is a fungus because that's what it looks like, but understand that fungus on live fish is not that common or am I mistaken?
<Mmm, may be a fungus... but sounds like a case of Lymphocystis...>
She eats primarily thawed brine shrimp and will not take other food stuffs,
<Not good nutrition... but a good clue>
is very active and has nice colorations. I am worried about not providing all the nutrients to sustain her good health that may also contribute to this condition because brine shrimp has little nutritional value.
<Bingo>
I tested my water parameters and the ammonia, nitrate & nitrite are all in check. The salinity is about 1.020, water temp @ 74 degrees and the PH 8.3. She is the newest addition to my tank prior to a 2 week quarantine and a 10 minute freshwater dip with Methylene blue.
Please help me identify the problem so I'm sure I know what I dealing with, suggest a cure and provide me with some alternative foods that my Heni may take a liking to. I have tried a mash of thawed scallops, vitamin flakes, Nori, garlic, vitamins mixed with the thawed brine to no success.
Mahalo and Aloha,
Les
<Please see the pix and read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/viraldislymph.htm
on to the Related FAQs linked above... Bob Fenner>

Re: Cotton like growth / Is this fungus? Lymph on a Heni
Aloha Robert:
<Howdy>
Thanks for your prompt response.
I checked your link and can not say with certainty that it is Lymphocystis or not, because the pics on the site are not clear enough. In fact, I did check this link and read about Lymphocystis prior to emailing you. It does however resemble it. Well let's assume that it is, what steps should I take to treat my Heni. Also, please provide your thoughts on possible food stuffs that she may like that would improve her diet.
Mahalo,
Lester
<Posted on WWM... use the search tool or indices to find, read. Bob Fenner>

Lymphocystis on A. ocellaris 4/15/05 Hi WWM Crew, First of all thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience on this site and helping other Hobbyists around the globe. I have learned a lot from the WWM site since I first discovered it 2 months ago (shortly after I set up my first marine tank).  <Thanks for the kind words! Knowing that you and your pets have benefited makes this a very satisfying job!> So far I have always be able to find answers to my questions by reading the articles and FAQs. However this time I think I need some additional help. I bought a Amphiprion Ocellaris 5 days ago and acclimate it to the quarantine tank with a quick fresh water dip. It looked well and started eating the same day. However 3 days later I discovered a small round patch on its tail, which has now grown 3 times bigger to about 3-4 MM and spread to the underside of its body. It has not lost his appetite and feeds eagerly, but is not as active as the first two days. It stays around the same spot except when feeding.  <This all sounds good. Do keep in mind that FW dips less than about 5 minutes are probably ineffective. A target of 10-15 minutes (or even longer), especially for very tolerant fishes is ideal.> After some research and reading through your site, I think it has Lymphocystis but the lesions pictured in the following two links do not look the same, and are different to those in the pictures I took. I am hoping that you can confirm my thoughts, or otherwise point me to the right direction. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/viraldislymph.htm  http://www.enaca.org/Health/DiseaseLibrary/LymphocystisDis.pdf  <The white "wart like" appearance of lymphocystis is very distinctive as is the fact that it occurs almost exclusively on the EDGES of the fins or mouth. It is not likely to be confused with another kind of disease or lesion. Lymphocystis is also common to a small number of species and very uncommon in most others. It is unusual in clowns. If you are confident that it is lymphocystis, I would not worry... it is rarely life threatening and goes away on it's own. My guess is that your fish suffered an abrasion or similar injury. Well fed specimens in good quality water usually heal well and quickly.> Here are the tank parameters as of today: pH 8.2, Temperature 79F, Ammonia 0.005 mg/l (I was surprised to see this as the tank has been running for over a month and I quarantined two yellow gobies for 2 weeks right before the clownfish, both yellow gobies are now doing well in my main tank), Nitrite not detectable, Nitrate 20 mg/l. <Any measurable Ammonia is cause for concern but before you start to worry, please verify your result with another kit, preferably of another brand. (a friend or good LFS should save you the expense of buying another). Although it probably has little to do with your problem, I suggest that all marine aquarists regularly test and maintain alkalinity, even in fish only tanks.> I have cut back feeding and done 30% daily water change for the past three days. This has brought down Ammonia level from 0.01 mg/l to the current level. Should I just keep doing this to improve the water quality? Or should I take further actions? Your help is very much appreciated. Best Regards, Damien Kwok, Hong Kong  <If you verify the results of your ammonia test kit (the change in level suggest that it may be correct), then you need to address the biological filtration problem. In the mean time, please make sure you fish is getting enough food. It will need the energy to heal. Water changes are a good idea, but make sure that the new water has been aerated over night. Also, ammonia becomes more toxic at higher pH, so I would suggest that you check the pH of both the tank and new water immediately before the change. If the pH of the new water is higher than the pH in the tank, it should be carefully adjust it down (check your local fish store for "pH Down" or similar products) so that it is the same as the tank. Best Regards. AdamC.>

Lymphocystis on A. Ocellaris FOLLOW-UP 4/15/05 <Damien, I am following up because I missed your pictures the first time I replied. I still don't think that your fish has Lymphocystis, but that certainly isn't a simple abrasion either. I am asking the other crew members to take a look, but in the mean time, I am not going to alter my advice, except to suggest that if it continues to get worse, I would move the fish to a hospital tank for antibiotic treatment. AdamC.> Hi WWM Crew, First of all thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience on this site and helping other Hobbyists around the globe. I have learned a lot from the WWM site since I first discovered it 2 months ago (shortly after I set up my first marine tank).  <Thanks for the kind words! Knowing that you and your pets have benefited makes this a very satisfying job!> So far I have always be able to find answers to my questions by reading the articles and FAQs. However this time I think I need some additional help. I bought a Amphiprion Ocellaris 5 days ago and acclimate it to the quarantine tank with a quick fresh water dip. It looked well and started eating the same day. However 3 days later I discovered a small round patch on its tail, which has now grown 3 times bigger to about 3-4 MM and spread to the underside of its body. It has not lost his appetite and feeds eagerly, but is not as active as the first two days. It stays around the same spot except when feeding.  <This all sounds good. Do keep in mind that FW dips less than about 5 minutes are probably ineffective. A target of 10-15 minutes (or even longer), especially for very tolerant fishes is ideal.> After some research and reading through your site, I think it has Lymphocystis but the lesions pictured in the following two links do not look the same, and are different to those in the pictures I took. I am hoping that you can confirm my thoughts, or otherwise point me to the right direction. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/viraldislymph.htm  http://www.enaca.org/Health/DiseaseLibrary/LymphocystisDis.pdf  <The white "wart like" appearance of lymphocystis is very distinctive as is the fact that it occurs almost exclusively on the EDGES of the fins or mouth. It is not likely to be confused with another kind of disease or lesion. Lymphocystis is also common to a small number of species and very uncommon in most others. It is unusual in clowns. If you are confident that it is lymphocystis, I would not worry... it is rarely life threatening and goes away on it's own. My guess is that your fish suffered an abrasion or similar injury. Well fed specimens in good quality water usually heal well and quickly.> Here are the tank parameters as of today: Ph 8.2, Temperature 79F, Ammonia 0.005 mg/l (I was surprised to see this as the tank has been running for over a month and I quarantined two yellow gobies for 2 weeks right before the clownfish, both yellow gobies are now doing well in my main tank), Nitrite not detectable, Nitrate 20 mg/l <Any measurable Ammonia is cause for concern but before you start to worry, please verify your result with another kit, preferably of another brand. (a friend or good LFS should save you the expense of buying another). Although it probably has little to do with your problem, I suggest that all marine aquarists regularly test and maintain alkalinity, even in fish only tanks.> I have cut back feeding and done 30% daily water change for the past three days. This has brought down Ammonia level from 0.01 mg/l to the current level. Should I just keep doing this to improve the water quality? Or should I take further actions? Your help is very much appreciated. Best Regards, Damien Kwok, Hong Kong  <If you verify the results of your ammonia test kit (the change in level suggest that it may be correct), then you need to address the biological filtration problem. In the mean time, please make sure you fish is getting enough food. It will need the energy to heal. Water changes are a good idea, but make sure that the new water has been aerated over night. Also, ammonia becomes more toxic at higher pH, so I would suggest that you check the pH of both the tank and new water immediately before the change. If the pH of the new water is higher than the pH in the tank, it should be carefully adjust it down (check your local fish store for "ph Down" or similar products) so that it is the same as the tank. Best Regards. AdamC.>

Another Follow-up, Remarks to the Lymphocystic Clown 
<snip> The reason I am writing everyone is because I also completely missed the attached photos when I replied and they are scary! The person described an Ocellaris with a white patch on it's tail that spread a bit.  They thought it was lymphocystis. They sounded pretty newbie with a young tank and reported a trace amount of ammonia. The fish was acting and eating normally. I replied that I doubted lymphocystis because of the species and the location of the lesion and made suggestions for proper water changes.  It sounded more like the fish got banged up a bit, so I also suggested that abrasions usually heal fine on their own with good food and improved water quality.
However, when I did go back and look at the pics.... yikes! Whatever it is sure doesn't look like lymphocystis, although it is understandable how they came to that conclusion. Whatever it is is pretty ugly looking, but doesn't look like anything I have ever seen before except for some pics that one of the crew (Jeni I think) shared with us of a puffer condition where spreading patches of the skin turns grayish until the fish perishes.
If anyone is inclined to take a look, the original message is in the "emails with images" folder. I will be curious if anyone has any insight.
Thanks!
AdamC
<Have looked at image, text... does look like some sort of tumorous growth... diag/prognosis, about the same as lymph... BobF> 
<<Adam, I've answered some queries quite similar to this, and in my research I did find that, while very uncommon, Lymphocystis can indeed occur on the body like what is pictured. In my own opinion many, if not MOST, instances of disease are more due to water quality, nutrition, and basic husbandry issues than anything else. Lympho is no different in this respect. Marina>>

Lymphocystis on A. ocellaris Part 3 4/17/05
Hi Adam, Thank you for the response. Unfortunately my clownfish's condition deteriorated rapidly, stopped eating and moving around, and finally passed away yesterday. 
<Sorry to hear.>
Looking back if I did not diagnose the illness as Lymphocystis and treated with antibiotics right away, it might have made the difference. Anyway I guess this is part of the experience and how we learn. 
<I polled the Crew for input about your clownfish, and got a few replies. One indicated that there are occasions when lymphocystis does occur as a body lesion. Another agreed it probably was not lymphocystis, but has seen similar lesions which eventually went away without intervention.>
I hope someone can identify the true cause of the lesions in the picture and recommend the appropriate actions. Not only I can learn the lesson and know how to deal with it next time, the information can be useful for other hobbyists as well. 
Best Regards, Damien Kwok 
<For all of the reasons you listed, I wish I had a more definitive answer. In the mean time, I would suggest that you don't add any new fish for a couple of weeks, just in case this was caused by a communicable disease. Best Regards. AdamC.>