FAQs about Dragon Moray Eels
Related FAQs: Dragon Morays 2,
FAQs on: Dragon Moray Identification,
Dragon Moray Behavior,
Moray Stocking/Selection, Dragon Moray Systems, Dragon Moray Feeding, Dragon Moray Health, Dragon Moray Reproduction,
Morays/Eels: Moray Eels 1,
Moray Eels 2, Moray Eels 3, Moray Identification, Moray Selection, Moray Behavior, Moray Compatibility, Moray Systems, Moray Feeding, Moray Disease, Moray Reproduction,
Morays, Freshwater Moray
Eels, Other Marine
Articles: The Hawaiian Dragon Eel
by Marco Lichtenberger,
Zebra Morays, Snowflake Morays, Ribbon Morays, The
"Freshwater" Moray Eels, Freshwater Moray
Eels by Marco Lichtenberger,
Dragon morays... Hlth. diag., sys. f's
I'm a little concerned about CO2 and O2 levels in a basement tank. Set
up is a 180 gallon 72x22x24 acrylic tank with
60 gallon sump large skimmer and lots of live rock in sump and
display tank. My return pump is actually for a pond.
<Hopefully w/ no metal to corrode, leach into the system>
I have to restrict it with a ball valve to control water flow.
<Mmm; I'd be checking (the stamp AND consumption directly) re watts
here. I live in a town w/ very expensive electricity. You may be better
off investing in another pump>
I also have a large chamber in the sump with a mass of Cheto to control
Nitrates. In habitants are two dragon morays
<Will need more room than this in time>
and a hand full of damsels, snails and crabs. So my one of my dragons
has always had a faster respiration then the other but both breath
harder at times then other morays I've kept? Is this a Enchelycore
<No and no; s/b about the same>
My tank is in my basement should I be concerned about C02?
<I hope not; but I would check, AND install a CO2 meter>
Not sure how to post videos for you to actually see what I'm talking
but here is a link?
<Mmm; the lighter colored animal IS respiring too quickly to suit me...
What is the water temperature here? I'd lower it to the mid 70's F...
slowing metabolism, increasing DO...), and the rock here? Appears to
have a bunch of BGA on it (likely too toxic)... See, as in READ on WWM
re limiting this. Do you have a DO test kit? I'd procure one
ASAPractical and test here... AND in the meanwhile use a pound or two of
GAC in your filter flow path and a pad or two of PolyFilter. Bob Fenner>
As always thank you not only for your reply but also for your service.
You guys are awesome.
Re: Dragon morays 5/4/17
Thank you Bob,
-Pond pump ( 2700 gph) is a sealed unit much like an aquarium pump no
metal and only 30watts.
<Ah, good; and a bargain watt-wise!>
-I keep the temp @78 maybe I should lower it?
<Yes I would; at least for now... 74-75>
Water quality is as follows ( 0 ammonia , 0 nitrites and below .005-.010
and rarely ever changes.
<How are Nitrates rendered thus? You may have a toxicity issue w/
-I will read up about BGA
But tank overall has very little algae.
<The purplish red material on the rock is my concern. Need to sample,
look under a scope...>
GAC will be added in sump.
<In a bag (likely Dacron/polyester), in the water flow path>
The lighter eel has always been like this but otherwise acts normal.
I do have the returns pointed to the surface and there is a lot of
turbulence/ gas exchange.
<Good; this and the skimmer should render DO at saturation (7-8 ppm)>
There is one more thing I didn't mention. I have a auto top off which is
feed through a 3 stage carbon filter. I do not have an RO unit. But I
would suspect a ton of algae of my phosphates were over the top though.
<Mmm; not necessarily. Again, it may be that other real algae
(Thallophytes) are being displaced, outcompeted by the Cyanobacteria>
I work in the auto field and understand trying to diagnose people's
issues without actually seeing everything so I appreciate your
willingness to give your opinion and expertise.
<Heeeeee! Don't you and I know it/this!>
And yes I will most likely have to re-home one of my beloved eels. Like
Marco I absolutely love morays especially Enchelycore sp. thanks again
<Cheers Brad. Will share w/ MarcoL. Bob Fenner>
Re: Dragon morays. Here's Marco!
Hi Brad and Bob,
both eels breathe rather fast for my taste, especially the lighter one.
As Bob notes , that's not an Enchelycore thing. I'd try slightly
reducing the temperature and increase the water flow on the surface even
more. In addition, check the pH. Should be at least 8.0, better 8.2-8.4.
Also, ensure that the basement itself gets enough fresh air.
<Thank you/Danke Marco. BobF>
Japanese Dragon Eel HELP!!!!!! Mysterious losses... env.
I was wondering if you guys could possibly shed some light on a problem
I'm having with Japanese Dragon eels.
<I will respond here and have sent your message on to MarcoL for his
I am currently on my 3rd specimen within a 2 year period. The other 2
passed away after being in my current tank after 1 year and about 7
months respectively. Unfortunately, the one in my tank now I fear won't
through the night, and has only been in the tank for 1 week.
<Mmm; something wrong here... environmentally likely. Do you measure
I have a 150 gallon display tank with a 20 gallon sump setup and
refugium. I run a protein skimmer, carbon reactor, and biopellet
<Why this last?>
Temp 78F, ph8.2, salinity 1.023-1.025, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate
There is about 130 pounds of live rock, sand bottom, and terracotta pots
(non glazed) in the main tank. There are also anywhere from 6-12
damsels in the tank at any given time, who do not seem to ever be
affected (3 of which have been in the tank since the beginning).
<A good clue>
Diet consists of haddock, striped bass, squid, silversides, shrimp,
krill, etc... Every eel has appeared to be in great health. Very active
during the day. Very social with anyone that walks up to the tank.
Great appetites. However, out of the blue it is like a switch is
flipped and they stop eating, begin "gasping",
become very lethargic, then die within a day or two. I have tried water
changes, antibiotics, antiparasitics, without any luck. The first 2 eels
were around 18-24 inches, while this new one is only about 12 inches.
Any ideas what could be going on and why it only affects the eels?
<The DO issue comes to mind most prominently. A 150 isn't much room for
a large eel... I'd add aeration... mechanically; and check to see that
O2 is near saturation (7 or so ppm) here. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for any advice or help, Evan
Fwd: Japanese Dragon Eel HELP!!!!!! 4/6/17
I forgot to mention I have a full cleanup crew of Nassarius snails, blue
legged hermits and peppermint shrimp that also appear to never be
<Also leading me to suspect gas solubility issue. BobF>
Re: Japanese Dragon Eel HELP!!!!!! 4/6/17
Thank you for such a quick response...sadly though, this eel has passed
as well. In terms of O2, how do I measure it?
<There are colorimetric assays like for much of what interests aquarists
water-quality wise; as well as more expensive electronic meters>
Would the protein skimmer add enough O2 into the system?
<Not necessarily, no>
Could the terra-cotta be leaching some sort of poison?
<Mmm; good question: A point of fact is that there ARE other possible
sources of morbidity, mortality here that would disfavor a large
Muraenid (over damsels, the mix of invertebrates you mentioned)... I
ALL that is questionable. I might avail myself of PolyFilter... as an
aid (via coloring) as to what might be trouble here>
If O2 related, why do you think the larger eels lasted so much longer
than the little one, who only survived 1 week and was doing great at my
LFS for months in a much smaller tank and a Kidako eel tankmate?
<Can't say directly... but this IS the case... that smaller eels are
more easily poisoned, die from env. stress vs. larger. I would
have you (it will take a while) read generally re such HERE:
AND the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Aquarium Build; and Enchelycore comp. Gabe's
I have a question regarding a future tank build.
<I have an answer regarding your future tank build :)>
I'm thinking about a 48"x48" cube ( 220 gallon) for two dragon morays?
<Hmm... Maybe not the best idea.>
I currently have one Hawaiian dragon alone in a 6ft 125
<Too small if you want to keep it long term>
but would love to have a pair. What are your thoughts on those dimensions
opposed to a 6 ft x 2ft 180 gallon.
<Brad, the problem isn't the tank as much as it is the eels. The eels may not
fight on an average day, but I can guarantee they will during feeding time.
Taking into consideration the price of these specimens, I wouldn't do it. I
would suggest the tank be larger as well if you decide you truly want to do
this. Think about 150-200 gallons for each eel? You might also
consider doing a really large tank and split it in half. Unless you can find a
confirmed pair that has been living together in harmony for a very long time, I
would steer away from keeping a pair. In the meantime, see WetWeb RE Dragon
Morays. Let us know if you have any further questions, Brad. Cheers, Gabe Walsh>
Re: Aquarium Build; Enchelycore 11/16/16
Thank you for replying.
I truly appreciate your service.
<Thank you. We appreciate you using WetWeb>
Honestly I have read as much as I can find on these morays. Ever since I was a
kid I have dreamed of keeping one.
<I too have wanted one for years. They're one of the reasons I changed from
freshwater tanks to saltwater. At 15 though, I can't afford one.>
I have a bit of an obsession when it comes to morays.
I have been lucky enough to have snowflakes, zebras golden tails and even a
green moray at different times in my life but Enchelycore sp have been out of my
reach until now.
<That's a nice eel résumé my friend. I have also kept all of the above with the
exception of a green moray. Where did you find yours?>
Space is always a factor and the 125 was the largest tank I could physically get
into my house/basement. If I go bigger I will have to build in place.
I have read 150 gallon tanks are ok for one but the dimensions are nearly the
same as my 125 ? Do you think I will be able to keep one alone in a 125.
Thank you again
<Brad, in the end it is up to you. I can only lend you advice. With top-notch
filtration and perfect water quality, you may be able to keep it for a little
longer. The dragon may not necessarily be too big for the tank, but it may
stress and die. How large is it now? They grow easily to three feet, which I'm
sure you know. If it were me, I would hold onto it as long as I could, but as
soon as I noticed ANY signs of stress that could be connected to tank size and
swimming space, I would look for a new home. Again, I can't tell you what to do
because it is your decision in the end. As long as the eel is happy and healthy,
a 125 could work for the time being. However, if you ever get the chance to
upgrade, you should definitely do it. I can see why you want to hold on to it as
long as you can, as I wouldn't want to part with an eel of that value. We'd love
to see some pictures of your setup too, Brad. Maybe a more efficient setup could
allow for a longer time with your eel. Thanks again for writing and feel free to
contact us again, as always. Cheers, Gabe>
Re: Aquarium Build
Thanks Gabe for all the advice.
<My pleasure. Write to us any time.>
The health of the moray is top priority. He or she is only about 18" and about
2" diameter. I purchased from BlueZoo aquatics in May.
<Ahh. Good old BlueZoo Aquatics. I order from them at least once a week. They
send the healthiest livestock in comparison to other companies.>
I have 100 lbs of live rock, a large skimmer and a Fluval 405 with carbon and
<This sound good for now. You may need to add/upgrade filtration once your eel
gets bigger. They produce a LOT of waste, as I'm sure you know.>
Water parameters are below safe levels. Right now the tank looks empty but I
know the effect a 30"+ moray has on a tank that size.
<Glad to hear you know what's coming.>
I'm serious in thinking a custom build tank will be my only option in the
<Makes sense. You can only fit so much through a door.>
Thank you again. It's always great to have a second opinion.
<Brad, thanks again for writing. That's a beautiful specimen you have. Hopefully
everything will work out nicely for you and the eel. Good luck in the future!
Dragon Moray in a 90 gallon... no reading, using WWM
I would like to have your thought on this set up. A dragon moray
with a school of damsels in a 90 gallon FOWLR.
<.... Nah; too small; and the damsels, food.... READ here:
and the linked files above>
The tanks filtration consists of a 55 gallon sump with an oversized
skimmer ( rated for 180 gallons) and some live rock.
I don't plan on any other fish but might like to add an
additional medium moray ( Jeweled(Muraena lentiginosa) or Golden tail).
I know larger is always better but I have this tank established and
ready to go.
Oh and one more thing, the tank currently has a yellow Edged moray
)in it. I had ordered a Jeweled (Muraena lentiginosa) but received this
one instead, but once it arrived in the mail there was no turning it
<I'd stick w/ this fish here. Not add others>
Seller wouldn't take it back either So I have found another home. Have
you ever housed one of these eels?
<PLEASE; use, as in search on WWM before writing us>
I have had many Morays in the past and this guy seems very docile. He is
only 20" now but seems to be growing every
time I look at him. Also I feed my eels fresh fish and squid from whole
Do you see any issues or concerns I need to know feeding grocery store
Thank you for taking the time to read this.
<As sincerely, Bob Fenner>
Question for Marco about eels
I currently have a 72x24x24 tank with a 72x20x20 sump with lots of LR.
Huge skimmer and plenty of flow in the tank with a gyre pump and 2 MP's.
The tank's LR formations were built specifically for eels, all caves from end to
<Sounds very good.>
Currently I have a 27" Japanese Dragon eel in the tank all by himself
for 2 months now so would I be able to add another one?
<This depends a lot on the specific individual. Some accept another eel, some
don't. Hard to give a proper prognosis. When both eels are added together and
none has established its territory it's more probable to work out. Adding
another eel months or years later is more risky in general. If it was my tank
and choice, I'd keep only keep one dragon eel per tank. In fact that's
exactly what I do with my larger eels.>
And if so, what size?
<Same size when referring to E. pardalis, slightly larger when considering some
If not, would I be able to add any other kind of eel?
<In general the same risk as with another E. pardalis.>
I cannot rearrange the rocks!
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraycompfaqs.htm for more cases/opinions.>
Thanks for your help, Bill
Sent from my iPhone while drinking & driving
Dragon Eel, Dogface puffer, Volitans Lionfish (mix) question... Earl
Clay Tres chimes in! 9/28/15
Hey guys. Long time reader, first time questioner here.
About a week ago I introduced a 18" Dragon Eel and a 6" Dogface puffer to a 150
gallon tank without any other fish.
<Be sure to use a powerful skimmer and possibly mechanical filtration for these
messy carnivores. Fascinating but messy!> The next day I added a Volitans
Lionfish to the tank that was slightly smaller than the puffer.
<This is likely to be a dangerous mix. As you mention, a puffer can be a fin
nipper and worse...eels and lions are relatively slow, low-key animals who are
easy pickings for a puffer. Puffers (and Tetradontiforms generally) are smart,
relative to fish, and have personality. This can backfire when they realize they
are in there with two captive compatriots. Those teeth are well equipped for
tearing up soft skin, fins, and even biting through the spines of a
lionfish...neither of which are likely to outmaneuver a puffer long-term. If the
puffer decides to get mean, neither of those fish has any protection from it. A
puffer can be like a battering ram with a beak and 6" is big enough to be ornery
and set in its ways...time will tell how this particular one will act. I have
met several people with nasty scars from puffers and triggers.
Keep an eye on your fingers. ;) >
The eel and puffer acclimated very well and began eating and swimming in the
open within a day. They even for lack
of a better term, "cuddle" together throughout the day and the puffer even
sleeps in the same cave as the eel. <Based on your decor/rockwork in my
experience, fish, especially largish ones that may have a harder time finding
good cover than typically smaller ones might, will gravitate toward the same
The lionfish on the other hand was very timid and wouldn't eat for 5 days.
<Not unusual, I recommend having the source of purchase feed a lion and see what
or if it's eating. You may have to wean
it off of live food. I have had luck with mysis shrimp for this.>
Last night we found the lionfish with bites taken out of his belly, and
unfortunately he has passed away.
<Sorry to hear it. The "forensic case" is clear here.>
We believe it was the puffer that did this, not the eel.
<Simple enough to tell: what do the bites look like exactly? Pointed teeth or a
"beak"? Pictures would help here...I recommend taking some post-mortem photos or
even putting the fish in a freezer (!) if you want to resolve these mystery
murders or diseases more concretely.>
I have read on your site, unfortunately after the fact, that puffers can nip at
Is this amount of aggression towards the lionfish normal, though?
Are the puffer and eel really "buddies" at this point, or are they displaying
some sort of "dominance game" with each other? <Fish act like "dive buddies" all
the time for a variety of reasons. I suspect at least part of it is as I
referred to before, they are both doing the same things for similar reasons and
their "hanging out" is a natural result. How much does the eel move around the
tank? They are normally pretty sedentary and should hole up in a semi-permanent
home. This seems like they are simply new fish to the tank that are
investigating, taking advantage of the other's discoveries (escape routes,
Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Evan.
<Sad to hear of your loss but with experience comes knowledge. My advice is to
study up as much as you can, especially with large possibly volatile predators,
before adding a new fish. WWM has some pretty in-depth info on triggers and
puffers. Another key thing with these guys is order of introduction: least to
The lionfish should have gone in first, then the eel, then the puffer imo.
The idea is to let the more timid or vulnerable guys to establish themselves
first and also when the new ones come along they have not already entrenched
themselves in a tank they consider their turf to defend.
I hope this helps! -E.C.3>
Moray eel tank. Dragon...
Hello to whom ever reads this at WWM! hope all is well :)
<Thank you Callum; yes>
I have a few questions that I was hoping you could answer as I have
searched for a good while and found little information to help me out
with a particular problem :)
Basically I now have a fully cycled 450 jewel vision bow-front aquarium
that I was hoping to create a predator reef if possible :)
Dimensions are;60"x18"x24" - 450 litres (120 US gal)
<Ah yes; a handsome set-up; and barely large enough for one Dragon of
Now I was hoping to get a Japanese/Hawaiian dragon moray eel in the next
few months but am not sure what to keep with it. In particular I was
wondering if in this size tank it would be possible to house both a
white mouth moray eel and a Japanese dragon together along with a few
fish tank mates?
<Mmm; really... best to keep this species by itself... and train it (via
feeding... with a stick!) to come out more often. It is a bonafide
piscivore. WILL eat most fish tankmates in time>
Also would it be possible with good filtration and skimming to keep a
few low care corals in this tank?
<Hard to do with this fish as well... It is given to periodic rambling
about its tank, knocking over most everything not securely fastened in
Here was the stocking list that I was thinking of :)
dragon moray eel x1. White mouth moray eel x1. Blue throat triggerfish
x1. Regal angelfish x1
. Yellowtail/Red Coris wrasse (gaimard) x1
. Blue/green reef Chromis x4
. Turbo snail x10
. Sand sifting star x2
<These might go with the Dragon>
. Green fluorescent mushroom coral
. Colony polyps
. Thick finger leather coral
. Brain coral – Favites
. Candy cane coral
<These stonies won't last long here>
TMC V2 pro skim 900 protein skimmer
TMC V2 Aqualumen 900 LED lighting system
FX6 Fluval external filter
<This filtration will need to be added to; as well as providing much
Various power heads
Thanks in advance guys! Any info on the white mouth moray would be
extremely helpful! :)
<Please read Marco's article re this species here:
and the linked FAQs files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Moray eel tank
Thanks bob! really appreciate the quick reply!
Think I will just stick with the dragon in a species tank :)
<This is best. A friend, Randy Donowitz at the Pratt Institute has an
almost puppy like one... DO BE CAREFUL however... this fish is prone to
leaving the tank if
it can, AND IT DOES BITE>
Just out of interest as I cant seem to find much information on it, how
does the white mouth normally do with tank mates?
<Okay if they're compatible with it>
Is it near the same as the dragon in terms of compatibility?
<Much more easy-going>
And by extra filtration do you mean more biological filtration etc or
I also thought the FX6 was a good choice as it was rated for up too 400
Thanks for your help! :)
<Better, for sure, to have redundancy here. BobF>
Re: Moray eel tank
Wow that's sounds awesome man! cant wait to get mine now :) and will
keep the tank locked down tight! wouldn't want to loose such a gorgeous
fish over something as easily preventable as that!
Thanks for your help again Bob and am sure will be needing your expert
advice in the future :D
Refugium dragon... eel placement/sys.
Hey guys I've got a question, first off I hope everyone is doing well. I
have a 240 with a 75 gallon sump and an extra 100 gallon that I was
going to use for a refugium, just a dsb rock and macro algae. The main
hopefully be some triggers haven't decided what kind yet.
<Do take care here; Balistids aren't really very "mix-able"
The question is, would I be able to put a Hawaiian dragon eel in the
refugium to avoid trouble with the triggers?
<In the 240, possibly>
I will mostly be using it for a nutrient export I guess what I'm saying
is, will a big messy eel negate the helpfulness of the refugium?
<Not really; if food/s, maintenance are matched>
The dt might just be one bruiser like a clown or queen trigger
<I wouldn't mix/place an eel with these. Too likely to be bitten>
so it won't be crazy overstocked. Well thanks for the help and for
listening to my ramblings.
<Rambling guy Bob Fenner>
Japanese Dragon eel and Cryptocaryon 11/30/10
Hi good day Marco
I am quite confused right now:) My dragon eel tank was infested by
<What other fishes are in there?>
I understand that I can't dose medication because of the eel, any
option that I remedy the current infestation of Ick? Hyposalinity to
1.009? Is it safe for the dragon eel?
<Yes, should work, but is not always a reliable cure (some
Cryptocaryon strains don't care that much about salinity). My
preferred method would be to remove other fishes into a hospital tank
to treat them separately and leave the moray eel in its tank without
other fishes for at least 4-6 weeks. Chances are good it won't be a
carrier, especially if it is healthy.
Please see http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm to get familiar
with this disease and its treatment.>
Thank you and sorry for asking you so many question. Kellvin Lim
<Good luck. Marco.>
Japanese Dragon eel 11/14/10
Hi crew of WetWebMedia,
Recently, I had purchase two 18- 24" Japanese dragon eel. I have a
6" Queen trigger and another 10" dragon eel. Can I transfer
both the juv dragon eel and queen trigger together with large dragon
<Usually Dragon eels get along well with each other. However, the
size difference of your eels is quite significant, so there some danger
for the smaller eel to get swallowed.>
With Regards Kellvin
Re: Japanese Dragon eel, incomp. 11/14/10
Thank for your reply. I understand that a bigger dragon eel will eat a
smaller dragon eel. How about compatibility between dragon eel and
queen trigger? Will they attack each other when kept together?
<The circumstances are not very good: Both are among the most
aggressive fishes generally kept in tanks and moray eels are also
believed to be one reason why the triggers developed their trigger.
Sometimes Dragon eels work with triggers, but in other cases they are
eaten or bitten badly at night.
It depends a lot on the personality and experiences of the fishes so
The queen trigger itself can also become a nuisance to the eels
permanently biting their dorsal fin. Given the eels have enough
adequate caves to hide this poses less of a problem for your larger
ones. However, if I was in your situation I would rather not put the
6" trigger with the larger, 2ft moray eels.>
Hawaiian Dragon Moray Issue, sys., hlth.
I'll try to make this short as I'm sure you have plenty to get
to. About a month ago I stumbled upon a 32" Hawaiian dragon moray
with tank and everything for a price I couldn't run away from
($500). Basically the lady didn't have any idea what her husband
had left her with. To get to the point, when I got the eel home and
moved (I took all the water with me) I checked the water and realized
that the nitrates were 100 ppm+ and all they had been feeding it were
silversides and krill. I immediately started with the water changes,
and have now got the nitrates down to about 30-40 ppm.
Still not great, I know, but it is getting there and I'm trying not
to do to much at once to avoid to much stress on an animal I know a lot
of people never get a shot at owning.
<This issue needs to be addressed. Changing from high nitrates to
low nitrates fast is not very stressful for a fish given a stable pH
(it's like getting some fresh mountain forest air for us), the
other way round is much
worse (this would be like coming from the forest and moving into a
hardly aerated basement office).>
My problem is, in the last week or so I have noticed that the nostril
flares on the front of the eels face were turning red. Today I checked
him over, and one is nearly gone with the other looking not to excited
still being there.
He also was eating like a champ when I got him, and now just acts
mildly interested but just twitches and turns away at any food I offer.
It has only been about a week and a half without eating, not much for
an eel I would imagine, but I can't help but think it is somehow
related to what's going on with his nose area.
<You are certainly right.>
One of his eyes is also slightly cloudy looking, but I had just chalked
that up to poor water quality for such a long period of time in his
past home, so I'm not really to worried about that at the
<Probably also a part of the infection.>
Anyways the ammonia is 0, nitrites are 0, nitrates are 30-40 as stated
(and getting better), salinity is 1.024, temp is 77 degrees.
The tank is 120 gallon with probably about 50-75 lbs. of live rock, 80
lbs. of black reef sand, and 10 or so assorted damsels. It has a
wet-dry filter, with an average protein skimmer, and a Hydor Koralia 1
powerhead in the tank for more flow.
<If this is the only powerhead in a 120 gallon tank it should be
close to the surface and almost parallel to force as much gaseous
exchange as possible without bringing air bubbles into the water. If
you have another powerhead available add it. In moray eel tanks of this
size I personally use powerheads moving about 2.500 gallons per hour or
sometimes more to move the surface in addition to a skimmer.>
Since I got him I changed his diet to clams, shrimp, haddock, and squid
(which he loved)....feeding him twice a week. I also began adding
Brightwell Aquatics Vitamarin-M, and Brightwell Aquatics AminoMega with
HUFA's to his food one time a week.
<What you feed sounds very good.>
It just drives me crazy, having improved everything about his
conditions and seeing him now acting lethargic, hanging his head over
rocks and just kind of laying (not supporting himself I guess). He does
sometimes seem to "scrape" the side of his face along some of
the rocks in the tank like something is bothering him. And there is the
obvious loss off the nostril flares and not eating. So basically I am
at a loss on what to do with this one.
<What I would do: One or two large water changes to get the nitrates
to 20 ppm or lower, probably re-think the surface current, check pH. If
this does not help within a week (not a good sign), a treatment with an
antibiotic such as Maracyn 2 might be necessary.>
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, Josh
<Good luck. Marco.>
Re: Hawaiian Dragon Moray Issue 11/11/10
Man, you are quick with the help, I really appreciate it.
I thought sure I had remembered to add the pH info......at any rate,
the pH in the tank is 8.2.
Upon reading your response I checked the pump coming up from the wet
dry, that they had on there, and it's only pumping about 400 gph or
so at the head pressure it is at. So, the next addition will be a
Supreme Mag 9.5 pump in the next week I think. I took the existing 400
gph Hydor powerhead and put it up at the surface on one end of the
tank, along with directing the wet dry return up towards the surface in
the middle. In addition I went and got another Hydor powerhead, the
1,050 gph and put it on the other end of the tank blowing across.
<This should help a lot with water movement and gaseous
Did a 50% water change today, and hoping to do another 1 or 2 before
the weekend is out. He looks a little better, showing less red in the
affected area of the nostrils anyway. And he seems to be a little less
lethargic and more alert.
<These would be good signs. Hopefully he will recover again.>
Probably going to try to feed him a little in the next day or two. I
really don't want to have to medicate, but I guess if that's
what it comes to it has to be done. Just makes me really nervous.
Anyways, thank you so much for the help. Any other thoughts, I'm
<Sounds good so far. I'd be interested in the progress of the
Re: Hawaiian Dragon Moray Issue 11/17/10
Hello again Marco.
I wanted to thank you for your help with my Dragon Moray.
I got the nitrates down to about 15, and now that he is mine, plan on
keeping then there. I went ahead and added the Mag 9.5 pump yesterday,
in addition to the powerheads I had already added last week. So the
tank is turning pretty good, especially at the surface. All of the red
has gone from the affected areas, and the other nostril flare never
<That's good news.>
It looks normal again, and the one that had gone away looks healed and
hopefully will grow back?
<Yes, very likely it will.>
One eye is still a tad cloudy looking, but I wonder if it's just
going to be that way.
<Probably this will go away, too, until both eyes look the
He ate a little squid last night when I tried to feed him, first food
in 2 weeks, so that was a relief.
All of his color is back, and he is back in his spot and acting normal.
I'm just glad I didn't have to medicate. Just goes to show one
doesn't always have to jump to "worse case scenario."
<Hope for the best, plan for the worst.>
Took care of the obvious, and the eel did the rest himself, pretty
tough bugger. The only thing I'm thinking about doing is investing
in a chiller.
With that Mag Drive pump my temp. is running at about 82 or so. I would
think he would probably like it a little cooler, but I could be
<No, you are right. Something between 72 and 77 F would be my
Anyways, thanks for the help and advice, if nothing else it kept me
from freaking out and over thinking things. Hopefully I won't have
a reason to be bugging you about this fella again. -Josh
<Have fun. Marco.>
dragon moray and zebra moray :) 10/30/10
<Hi. First of all I have bad news for you: Your shift key seems
I was wondering if you could answer my questions as I cant see to find
the answer first of all I can get a Hawaiian dragon eel for about
Â£400 is this a good price
also I will be purchasing a 5x2x2ft aquarium and will also have a zebra
eel in there with it is it possible for them to live together in that
tank or will it be like a battleground :)
I already have the zebra eel and he is about 24inch and the dragon
moray will be around 16inch apparently
<I do not recommend mixing them. It is probable the Dragon moray
will attack the Zebra eel as soon as it has reached a similar
also I have a Sailfin tang that is in need of a upgrade will it be safe
with them 2 in that tank
<Can be bitten by the Dragon eel, too. Depends a lot on the
individual eel you'll get. Many E. pardalis work rather poor with
most tank mates.>
thank you for your time
A hopeful Hawaiian dragon eel keeper :)
<The key seems to work again. Hooray! Cheers, Marco.>
Dragon moray and zebra moray :) 11/01/10
Thanks for the swift reply :) sorry about the grammar I'm not too
good with things like that :)
Just a couple more questions: Will the Hawaiian Dragon moray eat all
tankmates then or does it depend.
<Large tank mates that can stand their ground should be OK. Likely
you can also have success with cleaner shrimps and sometimes even small
fishes not worth a bite.>
and also how long do they live.
<Medium sized and larger moray eels can live more than 20
I think I may try it and as soon as I see any aggression I will remove
<The poor Zebra moray...>
I do love eels though and will be purchasing one about next summer. I
think maybe I'll let you know how its going and send pictures.
<Always good to get updates.>
When I asked the guy he said Â£800 but then said a medium
sized one is Â£400. I thought it was a steal.
Anyway thank you for your time and I wish you all the best. A hopeful
Hawaiian dragon eel keeper :)
Re: Dragon moray and zebra moray :) 11/01/10
One more thing extremely sorry. What tank mates would you recommend if
any I saw some groupers and such with a Hawaiian dragon eel at a
Sealife centre which was really cool :)
<Yes, this is a combination that can work given enough space for the
grouper. What I personally like the most is seeing them being kept as
pairs. This works especially well if two are bought and introduced to
the tank at the same time. Almost failsafe if the two have been caught
together as a mated pair.>
A hopeful Hawaiian dragon eel keeper :)
Dragon and Zebra Morays; tankmates 11/1/10
About the dragon eel again.
<Please use "I" instead of "I" in your emails to
us, I (or we) have to correct all of it to make these Email postable
and honestly I got better things to do. That's not a difficult
I also have a saddled puffer and I was just reading on a website that
if a eel eats a puffer it will die is this true?
<Not because of the poison, but it is possible that the Eel tries to
swallow the Puffer while it is puffing. It can get stuck inside its
throat and eventually both fish die. Try Google with "Puffer fish
kills big fish" or "Puffer fish kills Dolphin".>
if so I will give the puffer to a friend. I just love the Dragon eel
but I am now very concerned about the Zebra Eel. Do you recommend I
should give it a go or is there no chance it will work
<If they were my fish I would not try. I cannot exclude it could
work, but from my experience I would not be willing to take the
I would like to see if it works but I'm not sure if I would do at
the expense of my Zebra Eel. Would a Jewel Moray eel be a better
choice? (the Zebra moray is 28inch now)
<As a tank mate for the Zebra eel: Yes. As a tank mate for a Dragon
eel: No... too small... will be dinner at some point.>
Also thought that the Hawaiian dragon moray and the zebra eel would end
up at 4ft and the dragon moray 2.5ft as they would be growing at the
same rate or is this wrong?
<The Dragon eel will be much more massive with a significantly
larger girth, and by far more aggressive. They probably will get along
fine for some time, maybe even a few years, but at one point I'd
bet the Dragon will clarify who is the top predator in the tank. The
Zebra eel may be gone over night. I'd keep them in separate
I hope that you can give me some advice as I really want the dragon
moray :) Good luck in the future and I appreciate your advice and help
If I do purchase the eel I will keep you updated Callum :) (new tank -
5ftx2ftx2ft) (old tank - 4ftx20inchx15inch)
eels - 11/03/10
I am upgrading my tank as you may remember (still haven't decided
on that Dragon eel :) ) I will have to take all my fish out of the
aquarium and put them in buckets for a while. Do you recommend me
putting the filter and a heater in there?
<Yes. Don't let the filter dry out. It needs to keep its
Also they will be going into the tank straight away as the filter I
have is rated for 180 gallon or something like that and I
will be moving the same rocks over and the water with some RO water is
<RO water? You probably mean saltwater mixed from RO water and salt.
I'd definitely add some more live rock to the new system and use as
much freshly mixed water as possible. If the old water has significant
nitrate readings I'd dump most of it. The water itself contains not
much beneficial bacteria you want to transfer. It's mostly the
rocks, the filter and the sand/gravel that do. I'd transfer all the
rocks and a part of the sand/gravel (and dump the rest just like most
of the water). Transferring all sand/gravel will likely lead to very
cloudy water, because a lot of the fine organic material trapped in
between the grains will be released.>
The new tank is 5x2x2ft and the old one is 4ftx2ftx15inch is this
As the tank is going to be in the same place as the old one this has
created a problem.
<Yes. That is why you need all the old rock, possibly some new rock
and the filter. A skimmer would be very beneficial in this situation. I
guess you do not own a skimmer and do not intend to buy one (If you do:
good idea!). Borrowing a spare one from a friend would also be a good
idea for the move. Also, after the change you should definitely check
for Ammonia at least twice a day for about a week, to see if
transferring the beneficial bacteria worked as intended.>
Any advise on a better way
<See above and see http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movelvstkfaqs.htm
for other opinions.>
I have been talking to a guy at the shop about the Dragon eel with the
Zebra eel and he said give it a go and if I see any aggression remove
one but im
still not sure. Anyway this combo could work?
<See last emails. I would not try. How often do you intend to ask
this question to get the very same answer from me? You won't get a
"Do it" from me. Period.>
Any fish you recommend to go with these eels and in this size tank?
<Since I cannot recommend the combination of the eels, I cannot
recommend adding anything else to this combo. The Zebra moray is
compatible with a lot of peaceful fishes, the Dragon Eel only with
large fishes that can stand their ground such as groupers or a second
Dragon eel (see last emails).>
Thank you for your time Callum :) I love your website I have been
reading it since I started my Marine aquarium keep up the good work
<I'm glad you like it! Cheers, Marco.>
re: eels; I like to move it... switching tanks -
OK but do you recommend me putting the fish in strait away after the
tank is set up as this is my only option.
<Better than being in a bucket. I'd transfer them when the
cloudiness is gone. As noted earlier a skimmer would be a good item in
this situation, because it will add oxygen and remove some of the
waste, which will be set free during the move of the rocks and possibly
sand/gravel. A move like yours can be done, even if other options like
cycling the new tank first for a couple of weeks are better. Just avoid
transferring too much dirty sand/gravel, avoid too much dirty water and
keep the filter and rock bacteria alive.>
What kind of size bucket do you recommend for a Zebra eel, Sailfin
tang, Yellow tang and a Valentini puffer (sorry for spelling)
<The bigger, the better. A good old 6 gallon salt bucket would be my
minimum per fish for about 6 hours, but if you have bigger containers
available use them. You'll need additional space for the rocks.
Keep the buckets well aerated and covered. Don't feed the fish one
day before the move.>
I don't think my LFS or my friends can keep my 28inch Zebra moray
in one of their tanks :) but if necessary I will ask So how much do you
recommend me transferring over ( water )
<If the water is clean (not probable in a FO tank) and shows
<5ppm you can transfer most of it, If the water is polluted
(nitrates>20 ppm) I'd transfer as little as possible. The filter
and the rocks contain the bacteria, the filter and surface bacteria
need to survive the move, the water is not so important.>
Sorry about asking about the Dragon eel again Thanks Callum
Re: eels 11/4/10
Hello Marco :)
OMG the questions never end :) sorry once again Should I put a heater
in the bucket ?
<Yes, but don't let it get too hot.>
Also you said about keeping the bacteria alive how would I do this?
<Simply by having the filter running. Don't clean it during the
move... wait at least a week.>
Could this create a ammonia spike?
<If you kill the filter bacteria by turning the filter off for a few
hours or by cleaning it this could cause an ammonia spike.>
Would Nutrafin cycle be a good idea to use because it says it has live
<I'd rather rely on the bacteria in your filter and on the rocks
(don't let the rocks dry). You can add a live bacteria product if
you want, but I do not think you need to.>
I'm just really worried about this move and can't have a safe
state of mind without your expertise
<So far you sound quite well prepared.>
Thank you so much
Re: dragon moray and zebra moray :) Chapter 27 -- 11/7/10
Hello Marco :) Again
Now I am thinking of getting a Snowflake moray for my aquarium as the
Dragon eel is unsuitable. Will this be ok?
<Most likely it should get along fine with all of your fishes. See
and in the linked FAQs.>
And how fast do Zebra eels grow because mine has grown like 18inch in 9
months. Is this normal?
<Very fast for a Zebra eel.>
I checked his length today and he's about 3ft and when I got him he
was 18 inch. I saw a Dragon moray in the shop today and it was
beautiful and scary at the same time. Still its not really worth the
hassle with my tank and all and I couldn't bare it if it died
Â£400-Â£1000 down the drain. Thank you for your
time :) again Callum
Re: dragon moray and zebra moray :) Chatting more 11/10/10
I am planning on a eel but am not sure which one yet so.
I can't upgrade my tank for about a year now so if I only had a
puffer and a tang in a 80 gallon tank with the 2 eels would this be ok
for a while.
<I'd wait for the second eel until an upgrade is
Thank you for your time
<No problem. Marco.>
Re: dragon moray and zebra moray :)
Thank you for the advice but would this be possible or would a fish end
<Overpopulated tanks often adjust the number of their inhabitants to
the available space over time... If you put too much fish in there,
your fish are going to suffer, possibly one or more might get sick and
die. Your 80 gallon tank is full in my opinion... a large eel, a medium
sized to large tang and a puffer are already pushing it. Therefore,
I'd stop adding more until an upgrade is possible for the sake of
your current pets.>
Thank you for your time
I like to move it... switching tanks... and some eel
tank mates II - 11/03/10
I am really sorry for asking so many questions but I really need
<No problem at all.>
By the way I have a protein skimmer rated for 180 gallon I think
that has been running on my 4ft aquarium for a year and a bit
<Very good . This will make the move much easier for the
My tank water is really clean with under 5 nitrates and sometimes
0 !!!!! :) which is really cool
<In this case you can transfer all of your clean water into
the new tank.>
I think that I'm not going to get the Dragon eel so do you
recommend any other eels? I appreciate your advice I love my
zebra eel too much :)
<There is quite a number of medium sized semi-aggressive eels,
which probably will get along with a Zebra eel and your tangs and
puffer: Most Echidna spp. would suit well such as Snowflake eel
(E. nebulosa), Chainlink (E. catenata), Barred moray (E.
polyzona). Also some members of the Gymnothorax genus such as:
Goldentail eel (G. miliaris) and the White eye morays (G.
thyrsoideus and G. griseus). Quite a list to choose from. Even a
Jewel moray (M. lentiginosa) should work with the Zebra eel, but
the other fishes may not be totally safe.>
I'll attach some pics of him now and one cool pic of my
puffer :) He's called THE KRAKEN :) Thank you for your
<Thanks for the pictures. Look great!>
Once again Callum :)
Japanese Dragon Eel and clown
My fish store is bringing in a Japanese Dragon Eel for me.
Currently I have a show Clown Triggerfish 25cm and a Banded eel
and some grouper. Can the dragon eel be kept together?
<Nothing I would recommend.>
Lastly, can dragon eel tolerate Seachem Cupramine?
<Although it might not die instantly, no moray eel should be
brought into contact with copper containing products of any
Thank you with God Bless. Kellvin.
Re: Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger.
Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger II, 09/15/10
Thank you for your quick respond. You mean that the Dragon eel
will attack the groupers 15cm to 20cm and the trigger? Thank you
<I rather see problems with the banded eel in the long run,
which may/will get eaten as soon as the Dragon eel is able to.
Groupers of adequate size are generally better tank mates for
eels than triggers. They often
accompany eels in the wild, the two even hunt together. In
addition, a Clown trigger of 25 cm can pose a severe threat to a
young (25-30 cm) dragon eel. Therefore, I consider the fish
community you asked about as not so ideal. This does not mean it
won't work in every case, but implies that the chances are
not too high. Consequently, I won't recommend it.>
Re: Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger.
Oops I forgot to ask you, can I add my Clown Trigger of 25cm on
my 300g tank consist of angelfish average size of 6-10 inches?
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clntrigart.htm.
Younger Clown trigger can often be kept with various larger
fishes, but once grown many if not most of them become rather
aggressive towards their tank mates.
Bob put it this way: "almost always becomes something of a
total terror with growth/age". Consider this when putting
the trigger with other fishes.
Re: Japanese Dragon Eel (comp.) and clown trigger. --
It's me again. Sorry for popping you so much question.
I have had my Japanese Dragon eel, it is only 20-25cm.
I had taken your advice seriously and sold off all my large
groupers and clown trigger. Currently in the Japanese eel tank, I
have a pair of 6-7 inches Meredith angelfish, a Six barred angel,
a Queen angel, a French angel and a Koran angelfish.
<Should work as long as your eel is so small, but an adult
Dragon Eel (in about 1-2 years) can pose a problem even to large
All are about 6-7 inches too. The Japanese eel did not bother
them like wise. I have a Banded eel (Echidna polyzona) maybe
3-5cm larger than the eel.
<E. polyzona is relatively harmless ('Snowflake Eel
league'), another banded eel, Gymnothorax rueppellii (also
called yellow head) would be a different story.>
I am afraid that it will attack my Dragon eel, what do you
<If they have enough caves (which is essential when trying to
keep several morays together) they should get along, sometimes
some small fight occur at the beginning. So, I'd monitor
their first meetings and feedings equipped with a net. However,
since the Enchelycore pardalis (Dragon Eel) gets much larger and
more aggressive than its cousin, it will endanger the banded eel
at some point in time. Remember, with about 3 feet total length
expected the Dragon Eel will become a large predator.>
And I have a Miniata grouper (Cephalopholis miniata ), a black
saddled coral grouper (Plectropomus laevis) and a Threadfin
Snapper (Symphorichthys spilurus) all of them were 5-6 inches
respectively. Can I mixed them with the baby Dragon eel? Please
<I'd let the Eel grow a few (2-3) more inches to be on the
safe side. In a large system (>>500 gallons) they might
even be long term compatible with your Eel.>
Re: Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger. 9/26/10
Thank you very much. I had learnt a lot from you.
<You are welcome!>
<Very colorful specimen. Cheers, Marco.>
Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger.; now angelfish
with Cryptocaryon - 06/10/10
It is me again. My angelfish is infested with Ick. I can't
dose any copper or medication because of the Japanese Dragon eel
in there. What can I do? Please advice me. Thank You.
<Separate them (for at least four weeks until the last
symptoms have disappeared) and treat the angelfish (as well as
all other non-eel tank mates) in another tank. See here (and in
the linked FAQs to learn about this disease and its treatments:
A healthy eel is quite unlikely to become a host (blood toxins,
<Good luck. Marco.>
Re: Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger.
Japanese Dragon Eel and clown trigger.; now angelfish with flukes
My angelfish have no Ick as mention previously. In fact they are
<How can one confuse these two diseases? See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm,
Trematodes (also called flukes) mostly occur only on freshly
So I am going to treat it with Praziquantel. Can dragon eels
withstand this medication?
<Eels have been treated successfully with Praziquantel.
However, to avoid negative consequences on the small and possibly
larger invertebrate life within the tank, I'd definitely
treat in a separate hospital tank. Cheers, Marco.>
Multiple Dragon Moray Tank 03/05/09 Hey crew,
<Hi Joe.> I assume this will go to Marco. Hey bud, hope all is
well. <Sure, everything's fine. Thanks.> After speaking with
you in the past about a Tesselata tank I think I have officially given
up on keeping one of these monsters, just can't justify that big of
a tank and those huge water changes for just the single eel. So I'm
writing today to inquire about my plan B. I'm considering this plan
in my existing 240g or downsizing to a 180g (preferred). Can a Dragon
Moray (Enchelycore pardalis) and a Brazilian Horned aka Whitespot Moray
(Muraena pavonina) be kept together in a 180g? <In terms of water
pollution, space required: yes, but with regard to their character this
can become problematic. Almost all M. pavonina I had with other eels
became aggressive towards their tank mates including morays at some
point. The E. pardalis can be quite comparable in the long run... or
stay quite peaceful.... hit and miss.> I'm thinking of these 2
eels and one display fish (maybe a Queen or Emperor Angel) <May be
attacked, interpreted as a big piece of food, may not be able to hide
from the morays. Probably should placed in before the morays to become
dominant while the eels are still freshmen.> along with a variety of
Damsels/Chromis/Clowns for activity/food/color. Think this is a
feasible tank? <Possible... but you should be prepared that one eel
may have to be removed at some point. Both should have the same size
and be put into the tank together. Lots of caves will also help to
reduce territorial behaviour.> I would of course have a HUGE skimmer
<Yes.> and wet/dry on it. <Not necessary in my opinion,
I'd rather invest into good live rock and power heads.> Thanks
for any thoughts or ideas or better main fish for a tank like this.
<What you plan can be done... may fail... will definitely depend on
the character of the two eels. Other moray combinations have higher
chances for success: Zebra eel, Snowflake eel, Banded moray (E.
polyzona), Mexican dragon (M. lentiginosa), Chainlink, Goldentail,
White eyed morays (G. thyrsoideus and griseus) are easier choices that
can be kept together. A divider would be another visually less
attractive option or limiting yourself to just one of the desired
species (one specimen or a mated pair).> Joe
Dragon Eel is slipping away -- 2/21/09 I have
had an 18-20 inch Dragon Eel for 6 years. He's always been
blind as a bat but is otherwise a hearty eater, healthy as a
horse. He is of course beautiful, and they are no longer
exporting this fish from Japan so he's essentially
irreplaceable. Tank is 240 gallons and is kept clean, and is
professionally serviced every month. Water quality has remained
good throughout (I am a big believer in over- filtering a tank).
He has survived a very wide range of tankmates. <And eaten
some likely> About 4 months ago the tank had to be moved from
a location about 7 miles away to its current locale. The only 2
fish that came along with the eel were a porcupine puffer (about
10 inches) and a Harlequin Tusk (5 inches). Not a lot of fish for
a big tank, but hey, the economy. Since the move, the eel lost
its appetite, eating only occasionally. Diet includes prawn,
silversides, and "Variety Supreme" (or as we call them,
"gumdrops"). <Mmm... not what I would use... Do you
supplement, add vitamins, HUFAs?> I chalked his loss of
appetite up to stress related to the move, since he otherwise
exhibited no symptoms. But then about 6 weeks ago one of the 2
heaters in the tank burned out and the tank got a little cool for
a few days (about 8 degrees F below normal). He stopped eating
altogether and started to experience some sort of seizures. Once
the heater was replaced he seemed to improve a bit (he finally
moved back to his hidey-hole for a couple days, for example) but
has demonstrated what I can only call neurological deficiency
ever since, having trouble swimming, not eating at all, and
occasionally hanging out upside down. <Bad> Now, 6 weeks
later, he stall won't eat, he lies upside down in the middle
of the tank. His breathing seems labored. He has lost lots of
weight. But otherwise, he is asymptomatic--no obvious disease, no
sores, no color change apart from being slightly paler --
nothing. Just starving and wasting away. I am contemplating
euthanasia at this point. <Mmm, not quite yet> I don't
have a sick tank or the budget to buy one, really, unless I
believed there was a really great chance of it being successful.
Do you foresee any hope at this point or should I admit the
inevitable and put the fish down? Or is there something obvious I
have missed? Thanks for your consideration, Brian Maffitt
<Look into one of the commercial "appetite
stimulants" sold in the trade... Selcon, Seachem's
"Garlic Guard"... and raise the temperature to 82-84
F.... This and other Muraenids can recover from long bouts of
non-feeding. Bob Fenner>
Re: Dragon Eel is slipping away 2/21/09
Thanks so much for your response. A follow-up--he has a white
curling emission coming from the opening in his midsection, is
could possibly be a worm, or maybe he's just pooping? I could
send a picture if it would be useful.
<Would be. B>
|This is fecal material... I would force feed
this animal... See WWM re if you are unfamiliar. BobF.
Parasitic worms I need some help! My Hawaiian Dragon Eel
stopped eating. I notice that he has thin, tan worms all over his body.
The worms are about an inch in size. The part that doesn't hook
into the eel ends in a point. Please tell me what I can do to treat
this. I know eels are sensitive to many forms of treatment. He is a
full size eel. Thanks so much for any advice you can give. Kelly
<Mmm, need to have a definitive identification of these worms... to
the phylum level. I suspect they're flukes of some sort, and could
be treated with an organophosphate. I suggest a pH-adjusted freshwater
dip (that will likely result in a bunch "letting go" for
microscopic exam.) at this point. Be careful with netting the specimen
and keep the dip tank covered and heavily aerated during this
procedure. The dip by itself will not effect a cure... as the worms are
likely of a type that have direct development and will still be present
in various stages in the main tank when/if you return the eel. Bob
Re: Parasitic worms Hi Bob, <Hi Kelly> Thanks for your
response. I did do the freshwater dip. It took 18 minutes for the
leeches to let go. (not die, just let go). Yes, I did say leeches. I
took some of the specimens to an aquarium today. I was told that they
were leeches. <Easy to see with some magnification (and
specimens!)> Unfortunately, these leeches like to live in the
substrate. I had 200 pounds of sand and crushed coral in my tank. Well,
with some help, I actually removed all the substrate and bought more
live rock. The substrate is totally infected with these leeches. Just
looking at them makes my skin crawl. I am treating the substrate with
Clout in a separate container. <This should "do it">
There are no more of these leeches visible in the tank. Although, he
does have two of the leeches on him. Compared to the hundred that were
all over him yesterday, I consider this a huge accomplishment. Once the
eel settles down and does not appear so stressed, I will try to pick
off the two remaining leeches. This has been a very long project, but
is well worth the effort to save this beautiful eel. <Yes> We
have a Titan trigger fish with the eel. She was sick in the past and
had to be quarantined. We now think she was being infected by the
leeches as well. Since last night when we gave the eel a freshwater
dip, the Titan has been extremely protective of the eel. She lies right
beside him. If I am working in the tank near to the eel, she goes
completely ballistic. I have to say a full size Titan trigger and full
size Hawaiian dragon eel are a nice match. Although, I would not add
anything else with them. Take care Bob. Kelly <Thank you for the
progress report. Bob Fenner>
Dragon Eel Hi Bob, I have a 75 gallon FO aquarium that is
currently stocked with: 4" Naso Tang 3" Panther Grouper
4" Foxface 3" Volitans Lion 3" Picasso Trigger 2"
Tomato Clown I would like to add a Dragon Eel (Muraena pardalis) to my
tank. <Yikes... in a 75 gallon system? Sorry to state, your system
is already going to be overcrowded with modest growth of what you
already have...> They are a bit pricey so I wanted to seek the
advice of a professional before I made the purchase. Would this
overload my tank?. <Definitely> I have a large wet/dry filter and
protein skimmer. Is the eel compatible with my other fish? <It would
likely eat the Clown> Will the eel be aggressive to me when I clean
the tank? <Not common. This is one of the more "peaceful"
fish-eating Moray species. Unfortunately it (and some of your other
livestock) need larger quarters. Bob Fenner> Thank you for your
help. Jim, Logan, UT
Eels Hi, <Good morning, PF here in the bright and early,
at least by my standards...> I am purchasing that book I have
already ordered it. <I'm assuming Michael's book on sharks
and rays.> I know a lot about epaulettes but no where can I find
information on how well they do with eels, in particular a Hawaiian
Dragon Eel or a Tesselata Eel. <Both eels are piscivorous, and if
there is a substantial size difference, I imagine one would eat the
other. That said, Tesselata eels reach almost 6' in length,
that's a lot of eel. Hawaiian Dragon eels reach about 32" -
1/2 the length. Don't forget the square/cube law: double the size,
4X the mass. > I have read everything on your website about sharks
and almost everything about eels but I didn't find any information
on Hawaiian Dragon Eels or Tesselata Eels. <I would recommend you
read Scott Michael's Reef Fishes Vol 1, there's an extensive
section on eels.> I also am looking into the blue dot stingrays. I
am not necessarily getting an eel or a stingray but I am definitely
getting the sharks. I have read numerous books on marine aquariums that
included information about sharks. I have also contacted the aquarium
about epaulettes. I am smart enough to know not to get any kind of
shark that is sharky-looking, like a nurse, lemon, white tip, leopard,
shovelnose, or hammerheads, which are available from time to time.
<Good for you, I can't believe someone would try to keep a
hammerhead, well, actually, sadly I can believe that.> I have read
lots of information about the sharks but I cannot find any information
on how they behave with the Hawaiian Dragon Eels or Tesselata Eels or
the blue dot stingrays. <The sting rays fair poorly in captivity,
and need a very different setup than either the Epaulette or the
Hawaiian Dragon eel - the ray needs a large, sandy area, while the
shark and eel need rock work. For the sake of the ray (not to mention
your wallet) leave it in the ocean, or go see one at a public
aquarium.> So I need to know if they can all be housed together or
with just an eel or just a stingray and sharks? <Think I already
answered that one.> I also need to know some information about the
Hawaiian Dragon Eel such as his behavior, what it eats, and if it is
hardy? <It's an aggressive piscivore, like all eels prone to
carpet surfing, and yes they are hardy animals. They are also known for
going on hunger strikes. Do pick up and read Michael's book.> I
also need to know if the sea life I listed above are compatible with a
woebegone? <Not in my opinion. The woebegone gets over 10' long
and is no more appropriate to keep than the hammerhead.> I know it
is compatible with an Epaulette but I don't know if it is
compatible with the other sea life I listed. Please help me. Thank you
very much. Sincerely, Versusdude320 <Well, I hope this helps. Please
do some more reading and research before making any final decisions.
Have a good day, PF
Avoiding Reef Jerky Dear WWM Crew, <Scott F. at the
keyboard tonight!> I am finally ready to stock my 437 gallon
(80"x36"x36") Acrylic Tank with two Hawaiian Dragon
Moray Eels, in a reef type environment. The tank has two openings each
measuring 16"x22". My concern is whether to leave these
openings uncovered in order to enhance air exchange or cover them with
acrylic panels to make the tank "eel proof", as well as
control evaporation. Lighting initially will be a 6 foot custom Sealife
ABS Fixture with four 96W P.C.'s. The tank is plumbed to a 150
gallon open sump and connected to a large Aqua Medic Protein Skimmer. I
would appreciate your advise on whether or not to cover the tank
openings. Thanks, Ron Well, Ron, as you have surmised, Morays can
slither out and around just about any form of confinement, if they feel
frisky. I've even seen them many times, when I was fishing, slither
right out of the water to eat fish that we were cleaning on the rocks -
an amazing sight to see! I'd opt for a cover of some sort- either
the factory supplied acrylic slot covers, or a finer eggcrate over the
openings. Either way, you do want to secure them, or they can
definitely become "reef jerky"! Regards, Scott F>
Tesselata Moray 9/8/05 Hi, I was wondering if
you could give me some guidance, I'm looking to have a custom tank
built for a Tesselata Moray eel, would 60" x 30" x 30"
be large enough. I'm planning to keep the eel on his own, with
plenty of hiding places. Also as the tank is going to look pretty empty
until he has reached maturity, how quickly to they grow if fed daily,
and how active are they through the daytime. Thanks Kev
>>>Greetings! That tank should be fine for quite some time.
Whether or not it will be appropriate as a PERMANENT home is open to
debate. This is due to the eventual size of the animal in question.
Moral eels are very sedate though, and don't need much swimming
room. Even still, I'd say you're on the edge here. I've
seen adult specimens in captivity, and they are quite large. I'd
shoot for a 72" tank if possible. Growth rate is tough for me to
pin down, depends on feeding regime and frequency of water changes
really. I'd say you'd be looking at an 50" animal in about
2-3 years though. Hope this helps. Jim<<<
Substrate for Dragon Eel/Freshwater Top Off
mix-up - 3/22/07 Thank you all in the process of getting my
aquarium off and running. I have learned so much since I stumbled
across this web site 1 month ago. <No problem friend, that's why
we're here. Glad to be of assistance.> I will be starting a 240g
(96x24x24). The Hawaiian dragon eel will be my center piece.
<Wonderful choice, and an excellent configuration for such.> It
will be a FOWLR system with a 90g sump, 250 lbs live rock and a
2-3" live sand bed or crushed coral. Could you please offer me
your expert opinion on which type of substrate would be best suited for
this system? <A sugar-fine oolitic sand always wins out in my books
-- not only is it easier to maintain, I think it just looks better!>
would you also recommend a refugium for this setup? <Absolutely,
though no reason to add more to the tank -- a section of your sump will
happily suffice.> Further more, I was reading the section on
specific gravity. Mr. Fenner advises (if I understand the article
correct) that one should not refill evaporated salt water with
freshwater. <Mmm, no, I do believe this is a misunderstanding on
your part. You should always top off evaporate with freshwater.> He
advises that one should do a water change when the water level
noticeable evaporates. <Which article are you referring to? This
seems to counter everything I've ever read from Bob...> So my
question would be, is a freshwater top off system necessary?
<Depends on your diligence and laziness levels! If you would like
the majority of your tank to be blindly run to you, then an auto top
off is a worthwhile investment.> When I notice the water level
decrease a little should I do a water change? <You should perform a
water change regularly on a schedule of maintenance (a good 'rule
of thumb' is once a week.)> How much can I expect my tank water
to lose over the course of a week? I live in Calgary, Canada and it is
very dry. <This all depends on several factors, such as your ambient
home temperature, the tank temperature, the lighting scheme used, the
type of cover you employ, etc. I would say a safe estimate would be a
half a gallon a day, give or take. Again, don't trust this as a set
in stone factor, this is entirely determined by your configuration.>
My original plan was to buy a auto top off system and use RODI water
and do weekly 5% water change. What would you recommend? RODI auto top
off and a 5% weekly water change or when the water evaporates a little
just do a water change? <Weekly 5-10% water changes, with whatever
water top off scheme you choose will be sufficient.> Thank you for
your time, Brent <Anytime, Brent. Glad to help. -JustinN>
Hawaiian (I'm here!) Moray Eel, sys.
3/28/07 > Hello all! > Thank you for all your help thus far.
You guys must be avoiding my emails because I send them so often. I do
not try and waste your time. I do as much research as I can before I
bug you with my questions. <Mmm, something wrong here Brent... our
mail server keeps returning outgoing to you...> > My first
question is, what is the girth of a full grown Hawaiian dragon eel?
<Mmm, about the size of your forearm at its thickest> >
Second, I will be buying an aquarium that is 96x24x24 (240g). What size
of intake and return holes are needed in the overflows to get the
proper water movement? I will also be using the Durso standpipes.
<This, and much related material is archived here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm Scroll down...>
> Third, the aquarium will house a Hawaiian dragon eel as the center
piece. All other fish are subject to the eels compatibility. How much
water should be turned over in 1 hour? <10-20 times is about
right> > Forth, I will be using a 90g sump with a refugium built
in. How many gallons should the refugium be? What should be in the
refugium for a FOWLR system? <Also posted... see the above
index...> > Fifth and final question, I will be employing the use
of a Euro-Reef RC250 skimmer. Would you recommend that I put the
skimmer in the sump or plumb it externally? <In the sump, first
area... with a weir to keep the water level constant, about the right
level> Would the Euro-Reef RC250 be an appropriate size for the
aquarium? > Thank you very much for all your knowledgeable replies.
> Brent <Mmm, I think it will do fine for here. Bob
Japanese Fishes. Centropyge interruptus, Enchelycore
pardalis sys... 6/30/07 Hello and thank you for your extremely
valuable site. I have searched and not found references to my
questions. I'm a long time owner of a 200g reef setup and have
learned many lessons first-hand and from sites like yours. I'm now
embarking on remodeling my house around my dream setup. A 500g reef
tank and a 170g eel tank (one specimen). <How nice!> I have one
question that affects both tanks. I would very much like to keep a
Centropyge interruptus in my reef tank. Also, I have planned the eel
tank entirely around a Japanese Dragon Moray (Enchelycore pardalis). My
understanding is that the dragon moray has more stunning color when
collected from Japan than Hawaii. <Mmm, yes... or the Marquesas...
though both/all "color morphs" are gorgeous...> My LFS has
told me that both fish require significantly cooler water than other
fish. Is this correct? <Mmm... define "significantly"...
My answer is no... both are tropical fishes, both collected in warm
water... though the small Centropyge does occur in water in the upper
sixties F. in places> I can cool the eel tank easily as it is a
separate system, but the angel will be mixed with fish from all over
the world. I have not been able to find a recommended temperature range
for these animals. Will a warmer tank temp (~80F) affect the viability
of the angel? Any suggestions? <Should be fine... You can find, see,
infer this information by looking up these species on the site
fishbase.org Cheers, and good-life with your projects. Bob
Dragon Moray, sys... 1/1/08 Hi, I currently have
a 2 year old 400 litre marine aquarium with a 30 watt UV steriliser,
Eheim wet/dry canister filter, Fluval external filter, plenty of
liverock, and a AquaMedic protein skimmer with a sander ozonizer. Its
currently stocked with a 5" sub adult queen angel, a 5"
dogface puffer and a 6" great barrier reef harlequin tusk.
<Yikes... you're a good candidate for a larger system and much
more filtration> I have recently seen a 2ft dragon moray at my LFS,
I have been looking for one for 3 years and this is the first one I
have seen. <Sometimes there are a few more of these to be found
underwater, but most years... in diving a hundred, two hundred times in
their geographic distribution I'll maybe see one> The store
owner assures me I will not have a problem, but as the fish is 800
pounds ($1600 at current exchange rate) so I would appreciate your
advice. <Where's my collecting gear!?> Thanks Kev Manchester,
England <A good species, typically good specimens, but... your
system is too small as it is, to house the fishes you have at what will
be their about full size per the setting. I would go forward with the
acquisition if you have a tank at least twice this size. Cheers, Bob
Dragon moray compatibility I have an 18"
Hawaiian dragon moray in a 65gallon tank. He is doing great and eating
well. He is the only fish in the tank with the exception of some
damsels I get about once a week for him to chase around and eat. I want
to put a fish in there that actually swims around. The tank looks
pretty empty most of the time. I really want to put a clown trigger in
the tank with him. I know this fish will eventually out grow my 65 but
for now the one I saw at my LFS is the perfect size. Too big to be
eaten and too small to have an adverse effect on the tank quality. My
biggest concern is if the trigger will pick on the eel? It's the
eels tank and I don't want to get something that will hurt him.
Thanks. <Mmm, well, this tank is already too small for just the
Dragon Moray... and it has now been "trained" to eat what
comes into its system... I would NOT place a trigger in with this fish.
Could you tell us what are the natural predators of the Hawaiian
Moray Eel? 1st Grade Report 11/15/05 Aloha, Could you tell us what
are the natural predators of the Hawaiian Moray Eel? Any help would be
appreciated. Mahalo, George <Mmm, the resident sharks, including the
White Tip Reef, Triaenodon obesus mostly. Bob Fenner>
Japanese Dragon eel and
Volitans lionfish -- 11/24/2007 Dear WWM crew, <Bill.>
Love your website, it's the best website in this hobby for
this hobby. <I'm glad you like the site.> I have a 120
gallon tank with about 100 lbs of live rock and a 30 gallon sump
with a ETSS skimmer. The lonely inhabitant is a 30" Japanese
Dragon eel and since he is always at the bottom of the tank (only
comes up when hungry), I think the tank could use another fish so
I was thinking about adding a V. lionfish but I'm afraid that
it could sting the eel since the eel might get the wrong idea and
try to eat it or would he? <Dragon eels (Enchelycore pardalis)
can be a real pain for tank mates due to their long teeth,
enormous power and fish eating tendencies. Fish large enough to
be safe on the other hand may be a threat to the eel. The
lionfish is both, a possible threat to the eel and possible prey.
I would not risk losing this rare and expensive moray by adding a
lion.> Do eels know to stay away from Lionfish? <In the
confined space of an aquarium this may not always be possible.
Since the eel was in the tank first, it may well interpret the
addition of a lion (and most other fish) as feeding. Can work if
your eel is exceptionally peaceful, but the risk is too high in
my opinion.> So if too risky to put in a Lionfish, what other
fish would you suggest? <Mmm'¦ have many eels
together with other eels of the same size without major problems,
but eels will stay at the bottom, too, and dragon eels are not
among the eels seen sharing their caves in the wild'¦
robust groupers work well with many eels, too, but they need a
lot of swimming space and I do not think a 120 gallon system
could support a half a metre grouper'¦ Tiny fish like
some gobies work quite well with large eels. To be honest I would
not try another fish in this tank.> I don't want to deal
with Angelfishes or Puffers. <I'm sure the dragon would
love dealing with them'¦ pricey food and if the puffer
puffs possibly a dead moray.> I really love the Sohal tang and
the Harlequin tusk but they would have to be huge since the eel
can eat filet of fish (6" long x 2" height) which is
pretty big, huh? <Oh yes, and they can take out chunks of
larger fishes by forming their body into knot.> Thanks for
your time, Bill. <Sorry if it is not what you wanted to hear,
but personally I would not try tank mates. Rather enjoy the
dragon in his own tank. Much more relaxing. Take care,
Re: Japanese Dragon eel and Volitans lionfish -11/27/2007
Dear Marco, <Bill.> Thanks for your quick response. <No
problem.> I actually forgot to mention that the eel is going
to be transferred to the 120 gallon tank so, if that's the
case, would I be able to put the Lionfish in 1st and then the
eel?? Do you still think it might not be worth the risk to the
eel? <Chances are better when you add the Lionfish first.
Anyway, I personally would not risk the life of this pricey and
wild caught Moray eel. It is possible they will live together
peacefully, but the probability is rather small. Chances are good
the Eel will kill or eat the Lionfish at some point. Worst case
scenario is the Eel is stung to death while killing the
Lionfish.> Thanks, Bill. <Welcome. Marco.>
Dragon moray comp. -- 01/04/2008 Happy new year
and thanks for the quick response <Happy new year to you,
too'¦ please attach earlier e-mails to new queries, so we know
who answered your last question.> , I did forget to mention that I
am planning to upgrade to a 1000 litre tank within the next 12 months
as I love my Queen Angel and I know it could reach 45cm. The only thing
stopping me at the moment is the size of my apartment, which will not
be an issue for much longer. I would normally wait, but this is the
first Dragon Moray I have come across in the UK after 3 - 4 years of
searching. Do you think if I improve the filtration as you suggested, I
would get away with keeping the eel in my current set up for the short
term until I upgrade. If so what upgrades would you recommend? <I
would not risk the lives of your beloved Queen Angel, your puffer or
any other fishy inhabitants by putting a Dragon Moray in the same tank.
Even other morays of similar size often flee from Enchelycore eels.
They can take chunks out of large fishes and fold angels to fit them
into their stomach.> All my fish are really healthy and I do regular
water checks and changes with R.O.. water. I am even considering
trading my black coral sea puffer against the eel if you think it would
be a risk to keep them all, but I am very reluctant to part with any of
my fish as they all work really well together. <The Dragon would be
a typical case for a specimen only tank. Not much I can think of --
aside sessile invertebrates, snails, hermits -- is safe with this type
of moray, even other Moray Eels may fail.> Thanks, Kev. <Cheers,
Moray Eel order of introduction to the new system --
01/07/2008 I am planning consolidation of White Mouth (18 in) and
Hawaiian Dragon (15 in) into the same system. Both are pretty laid back
and fed mostly frozen silverside fish. <Usual warning: Feed a varied
diet with clam flesh, mussel flesh, prawns, scallops, squid, fish, and
add vitamins from time to time. Your eels will probably thank you by
having a long and healthy life.> What order would you suggest for
moving them? My plan is to move the white mouth first and introducing
dragon a week later. <This coincides with my recommendation.
Although I would have kept the Enchelycore preferably in its own
system, what you suggest has been done successfully at least for some
time. Be prepared to remove the White Mouth or the Dragon in the case
of severe aggression, though. In addition provide enough hiding spots
for both of them and ensure the tank is 150 gallons or larger. It's
good the Dragon is slightly smaller. The first nights and the first few
feedings will be the most critical moments.> Thank you in advance
for your help. Steven <Good luck. Marco.>
Eel on Diver's Den. Muraena ID, comp. 12/20/08
Hi Crew, and Happy Holidays <Hello Kirk.> Diver's Den has had
what they term a "West-African Horned Baby Moray Eel" (7
inches, but they have had it over a month), they are saying Muraena
melanotis <Correct, I've seen this species on this page.>
which if I am not mistaken is typically the Brazilian Dragon Moray?
<No, these are mostly Muraena pavonina, a much smaller species. The
name Brazilian dragon moray has been used for M. melanotis in the past,
too, a typical problem with common names. I am aware there is an awful
lot of misinformation on this group of Muraena species (M. pavonina, M.
melanotis, M. retifera and even M. lentiginosa) in hobby and even
scientific literature (even Michael, Debelius?). Let me know if there
are any questions on their ID or taxonomic status, I've dealt with
them in detail in the past and still keep M. pavonina.> Do you think
this would make a decent community Moray? <Hehe? no. They get well
over 1 m and as thick as a strong arm. Really voracious eaters when
settled in and healthy. Think of them as being quite similar to G.
favagineus or G. undulatus in terms of character, basically its the
same ecological niche this species fills in the tropical, mostly
Eastern Atlantic.> I have a 8 foot 240 with the following...Sohal
Tang, Asfur and Coral Beauty, Sunset Wrasse & Harlequin Tusk,
Sargassum & Redtooth Triggers. The Coral Beauty might be a worry as
the Eel grows older (I could put him in my other tank), other than that
do you think this Eel would work? I have heard favorable results with
the Brazilians in "aggressive community set-ups". <With M.
melanotis, the possible loss of the sunset wrasse and the coral beauty
is obvious. But even the larger fish may be bitten, ripped apart. I
cannot completely exclude it might work, it depends a lot on the temper
of this specific eel, but I would not be willing to take the risk.>
Would I be better off to look for a Jeweled Moray (Muraena
lentiginosa)? <Yes, MUCH better.> I am still a little confused on
the difference between melanotis and lentiginosa as I have gotten
conflicting info. <Yes, I've been there. M. lentiginosa has
smaller hornlike rear nasal tubes, its yellow spots are bordered by a
dark rim and it has tiny hair like structures on the top of its head.
M. melanotis has white spots on a dark grey background and the longer
horns are generally more white (due to white spots) than black. If you
still feel unsure you, can always send a picture prior to purchase.>
Appreciate any help, Kirk <One of my favourite topics. Cheers,
Concern for Hawaiian Dragon... beh., hlth. 1/24/07 I
purchased a 20" dragon for my LFS and he is currently in QT at the
LFS. I go up there almost everyday and feed on Wed and Sat (grouper,
snapper, shrimp). I have noticed that sometimes he is only using one
pouch to breath. <Not atypical... not a large concern> I have
smaller eels at home and they have never done this so I am really
concerned. The guys at the LFS don't know a whole lot about eels
and I am getting scared. Please Help!!! Thanks D <I would not hold
off on buying, moving this Moray on this basis, and would feed it more
like twice a week at this size. Bob Fenner>
Dragon Eel I was thinking of buying a Dragon Eel for my 180
FOWLR. What do you think about this eel? Does he get fairly big? Long?
Will this type of eel go after everything? I really can't find that
much information about this specimen. <Enchelycore pardalis? About
three feet maximum length... a fish eater. Will eat what it can/does
catch> If I did buy this type of eel will I be able to put my hand
in the tank to clean it. <Yes, carefully... watching where the Moray
is... keeping your hands out of its way> Your opinion will be
greatly appreciated. Could you also give some examples of some other
fish that I should be able to place in the tank. I'm assuming that
all other fish in the tank should be 7inches or bigger correct. When
buying fishes of this I'm sure my selection is limited due to the
fact that most fish do poorly when you purchase them at that size.
<Hmm, depends on the starting size of the Moray... do read over the
selection pieces and Moray cover article posted on the
www.wetwebmedia.com site. Bob Fenner>
Re: Dragon Eel Does this go the same for the Cortez Dragon Eel?
Does this eel look similar in color (markings)? Would this be a better
choice? Will this eel come out and show itself during the day? <Yes,
yes, about the same in choice, and eventually. Bob Fenner>
Cortez Dragon Eel I was wondering do you think that I could add a
10' Cortez Dragon Eel to my 200 gal FOWLR tank with these following
fish already in occupancy? 12' Snowflake Eel, 6' Vlamingi Tang,
5' Pink Tail Trigger, 5' Paddle Fin Wrasse, 5' Twin Spot
Coris Wrasse, and 6' Red Coris Wrasse. The Cortez Dragon would be
the last addition to the Tank. I know that the current tank size seems
like I will be overcrowding the fish but I'm waiting on my 360 gal
tank that is on order. I know that Eels hunt at night and was wondering
if you think that I would wake up one morning to find my Paddle Fin
missing? My Snowflake missing? <Hmm, well, if these fishes were
consumed by the Cortez, it would take a couple of years for this to
happen. I'm more concerned that the trigger or Coris wrasse might
harass this young Muraenid... but give you good odds that this addition
will/would work out> I'm looking for an Eel that I could start
off small and probably wont be a total terror as it gets larger to my
current set-up. I don't want anything like a Zebra moray, but
something different that you don't see often in the pet stores. Any
suggestions? Already tried looking on the WetWebMedia site and various
dealers. Any extra information would be appreciated. <Please look
over the section "The Fishwatcher's Guide to... Tropical
Eastern Pacific" posted on the WWM site, and consider picking up a
copy of this book... need to get them out of the living room. Bob
Morays Hi Bob, I am looking at getting a 125 gal tank and was
wondering if I could house 2 of the following a Zebra/snowflake/dragon
together? <Yes, they can be kept together in such a system> Or
what would be allowable tankmates. (clowns with anemones?)>?? <If
the anemones were placed high enough in the water column. Likely on
live rock> I read the long article on the Zebra moray, is there any
literature online about dragon morays? <Don't know... search by
the genus name... some on fishbase.org> Kurt <Bob Fenner>
Dragon Eels and Tesselata Eels Hey guys, My first question is
about Dragon Eels. How easy are they to keep? <Very much so. Same
old challenges of not letting them get out of the tank... getting big,
being messy...> I currently have a Chainlink eel and a Blackedge and
they are pretty easy to take care of. Both were really easy to switch
to frozen food and are fairly fun and personable. Is a dragon the same
way? <Yes> Or am I looking at something that is going to be more
difficult to care for? My second question is that I have fallen in love
with Tesselata eels. I currently have an empty 75 gal that if I got one
would go into until he outgrew it. How fast do these guys grow? <Not
that quick... a few inches a year... given "just" feeding for
maintenance (as opposed to growth, satiation> I have heard that they
can be pretty aggressive and I have heard that of the larger morays
they are one of the best to keep. Any info on them would help. Thanks
for your help, Wade <Please see the various references to the Moray
Eels posted on the materials archived re the group on WetWebMedia.com
Adding an Eel - Dear Bob, I came upon your site last evening
and tried to read as much as I could about this eel. We have a 400 gal
tank with: large porcupine puffer, rainbow puffer, 14" French blue
angel, 14" gray angel, 5" queen angel, 5" emperor
angel.10-12" Naso tang, 4"yellow tang, 6" blue tang,
5" Huma Huma trigger, blue line trigger,7" white face angel,
8" blue ring angel and some small ( 2-3") damsels that were
the starters. The guy who takes care of the aquarium and our fish wants
to add a dragon eel. I am not sure of it's current size but he says
it grows to 18" and is docile. I have read so many conflicting
articles, letters and statements that I feel unsure of this addition.
Are my current fish going to be in danger?
<Not necessarily, but I think I'd forgo this choice in your
situation. While this is a very good looking and docile eel [in eel
terms] your tank sounds like it has enough going on without the added
bonus of an escape artist in residence. I think you'll also find it
won't be exactly cheap. If you can live without this, I would.>
Please respond ASAP if you could as he would like our answer by Monday
10/04/04. Thanks for your time! Sincerely, Linda <Cheers, J -- >
- Adding an Eel, Follow-up - Dear WWM FAQ Crew, Thanks so much for
your rapid response! <My pleasure.> I completely agree with you.
This was not a specimen I was looking into, but offered by our
"tank caretaker". <All the more reason to pass on it.>
This is a seasonal home so we are not there much through the winter. I
just did not want any problems with the other fish being in danger. I
also don't know exactly how large it would get and basically want
to keep the "peace" in my aquarium! <You can expect the
Dragon eel to make it to about two feet.> Thanks for your quick
reply, I really appreciate it. Will stay tuned to your wonderful and
informative site! Sincerely, Linda <Cheers, J -- >
Re: Tesselata Moray in a 60" x 30" x 30" tank
9/11/05 Thanks for the quick response, In light of your opinion I
have decided to reconsider, my LFS also say the Tesselata Moray in
their experience is the most aggressive Moray. Would a Dragon Eel be
more suitable? and if so could I pair it with a Lion fish?. I have
contacted my LFS in England, and they say they could source me a dragon
eel in 3-4 weeks for 600 -700 English pounds, would you say this is a
fair price? (Tank size 60" x 30" x 30")
>>>Hello again, I'd say that is expensive, but about what
I'm used to seeing nowadays for that animal. I paid $100 for mine
(roughly 200 pounds?) 10 years ago. They are a better choice in the
size department for sure given your tank size. How about a zebra moray,
a dragon moray, and a Mexican dragon? You could put all three in a tank
that size. He should be fine with a lion fish. Cheers
Mexican dragon eel 10/21/05 Hi, I've wanted to setup a
saltwater tank for many years and was given a 55 gallon tank by a
friend so I decided to jump in. I've always wanted eels so I've
been reading everything I could find and came across your web site.
Today I came across an eel that I really liked and was informed by the
owner that it was a Mexican dragon eel. My questions are, is a 55 gal
tank big enough for this eel and say a lionfish? <Mmm, no... not
even just for this species of eel... needs at least twice this
volume> Is this type of eel hard to find normally and usually
expensive, because I know Hawaiian Dragon eels are. <Is about the
same retail in most places in the world... a bit cheaper closer to the
source> And lastly how must live rock/and what type of filtration
should I go with? <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm
and the linked files above> A friend is going to give me a wet/dry
system that he was going to use on a 120 gal tank and I was looking at
an Aqua C Remora hang on protein skimmer. Is the wet/dry system needed
for just these two fish? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you Larry
<Please read on WWM re wet-dries, marine filtration... Bob
Moray Eel Species Only tank for a 75g suggestions
12/28/07 <Hello Joe> I had been planning on making my now 75g
grow out tank as a species only tank for a prized Japanese Dragon Moray
eel. I know this eel max's out at 3' so I'm a little
concerned that the tank may be too small even if he is the only one in
it. If it is too small for a DME what size eel should I be shopping for
to place in a 75g species only tank and do you have any good
suggestions? <This tank should be fine for the eel as it will spend
a majority of its time in a cluster of live rock waiting to ambush some
prey. The main points of concern are not the 75g tank size which is the
smallest tank I would use, but that water parameters are kept as
constant and close to Natural Sea water (NSW) as possible. Keeping
Nitrates and Phosphates as low as possible too will aid in the long
term survival of this animal. Finally, feeding it appropriate foods is
also very important. Train the eel to take frozen Saltwater Fish (as
Freshwater fish will be too fatty) and thawed frozen shrimp from the
grocery store. These are much cheaper than aquarium prepared frozen
foods for predatory fish) Frozen foods are best as they will limit any
introduction of parasite or disease that live foods could introduce.
Hope this helps-Rich...aka...Mr. Firemouth> Thanks Joe
|Re: Green Moray Eel, now Gymnothorax castaneus
(Panamic green), sel. - 04/14/08 Hey Marco, <Hi.> Yes I
do really like Gymnothorax castaneus as well but heard they were
horribly shy and hide all the time so I took them off my list. Have
you had any experience with them? <Not from the aquarium trade,
it's not imported over here so far. <Germany> I strongly
doubt it is generally much shier than G. funebris given how many
photographs of it in nature exist, and how often they are seen by
divers. This is among the top predators in the rocky reefs of its
distribution with not many enemies as adults. I'd expect
exactly the same as with G. funebris: The young often hiding, but
the adults quite outgoing and curious. These two species are
closely related.> I have a Japanese dragon eel in one of my
tanks and they say they can be shy as well but he's always out
and a bout and one of the least shy eels I've ever owned so
guess just comes down to the individual. <Exactly. There are
general statements possible and published about each species, but
not all moray individuals seem to read what we write.> I sent a
picture of my dragon eel with his purple Rhinopias roommate cause
you seem to be a pretty big eel nut like me lol. <How did you
come to this conclusion? Mmm'¦ looking around you may be
right. Thanks for sharing the picture!> Anyways thanks again for
all the advice always like to have all the info before I start a
new tank. <Very good. Cheers, Marco.>
Expensive tastes! RMF
Moray ID 9/14/03 Greetings, I was wondering if you could help
me with a Moray eel Id. The animal in question is shaped much like a
Dragon Moray. The pattern of the animal is chocolate to black with nice
sized white pearl circles all over the body. The eel also has a pair of
horns much like that of a Dragon Moray, and the head is elongated.
Overall the animal looks much like a Dragon Moray without the
spectacular coloring. I have searched everywhere and have not seen any
photos or descriptions of this animal. Any info. would be of great
help. Thank you. Best Regards, Michael Castiglioni <Michael...
without a picture, it is nearly impossible for us to say. Let suggest
you do a search of fishbase.org using the genus Muraena. I suspect you
will fin what you are looking for from this group of horned morays.
An expensive Moray Eel Gamble hey guys- I've got a 265g
set up for about a week now. There is a sale at my LFS that has a
healthy 2ft. Hawaiian dragon moray for $600 (good deal, for me any
way). am getting a shipment of 90lbs of live rock in on Tuesday, but if
I get the eel, I have to get him tomorrow (before the live rock). is
this a hardy fish, do you think he will fare well and survive my tank
or is this fish to risky to gamble that money? please let me know your
opinions and quick, like I said, I have to act on this tomorrow.
thanks, Justin <I caution you to wait here... though this species is
tough, it will likely suffer tremendously being placed in such a new
system... AND then suffering through live rock curing... better by far
to be patient... another such "deal" will come along in
time... when your system is well-enough aged and stable. Wait. Bob
Dragon eel I looking for a eel that called a dragon eel. My
friend said its yellow has a horn on top of it head. If you can tell
maybe when I can get this eel from or maybe help me find a location
that sell them. I'm in the New York area. Thank you. <Likely
Enchelycore pardalis. Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm
Can be special ordered through LFS or check with The Marine Center
(linked at top of page). Bob Fenner>
Sexing Hawaiian Dragon Moray Eels Dear Mr. Fenner, <Hi
Ronald> I currently have one Hawaiian Dragon Moray Eel and now have
an opportunity to purchase a second specimen. I would most appreciate
any information you could provide relative to determining the sex of
Dragon Moray Eels as well as breeding information. I recognize that
this would be a difficult challenge and am prepared to do whatever is
required. I am currently in the process of setting up a 437 gallon tank
to hopefully house these two Morays. Your anticipated response is most
appreciated. <Have looked through my print references and
fishbase.org... No external differences between the sexes. Have seen
(rarely) morays in "pairs" (and on occasion more than one,
two species in a hole/cave) while diving, but never Enchelycore
pardalis. Bob Fenner> Kindest regards, Ronald Allard
Hawaiian dragon eel; searching for information 03/18/07 Hello
all!! <Hi Brent. Marco here.> With all of your answers to my
previous questions I go into this hobby with a lot of confidence! So
thank you for your knowledgeable replies. <You are welcome.> I am
starting up a 240g (96x24x24) aquarium. <Nice size.> My fish list
is an emperor angel <This fish will get a little large for your
system. Search WWM for Pomacanthus imperator. Provided you have a very
good filtration and no other large fishes, it may work.>, clown
trigger (I am aware of the trigger's tendencies and am financially
prepared to move the trigger to another large system) and a snowflake
eel. I was browsing over the Internet for different eel species and
came across a Hawaiian dragon eel. I tried to find some info in the
FAQs about this eel but couldn't find any. Maybe I was not looking
in the right places. <Try WWM and also check Fishbase.org. Using the
search feature at WWM I stumbled over several posts regarding this
species. Also try searching for Enchelychore pardalis.> Would the
Hawaiian dragon eel work in the setup I am getting? <If you can
remove the trigger just in case and provide high water quality I'd
say: yes.> If it does, I would replace the snowflake with the dragon
eel. How big do the Hawaiian dragon eels get? <Size is posted. Will
get about 1 m.> Are they aggressive? <They are predators that
will eat smaller fishes. But be prepared they also may bite larger
fishes. In that case you probably will not have any problems finding a
new home for him.> Perhaps you would be so kind as to direct me to
the proper link that could help me answer these questions? <As noted
above please use the search feature>. I am sure that you have
answered all of my questions a hundred times before and I don't
want to waste your time. Thank you for all your hard work and
dedication. Brent. <You are welcome.>
It's A-Moray! Hey Bob, sorry to trouble you but I do have
a question that I would like your knowledge to handle. <<Not Bob,
but JasonC - Bob is away diving.>> Hopefully I have a Dragon
Moray coming in soon for my new 125 it's being kept at the store
till I have the tank ready for it. It's from Okinawa, not Hawaiian,
is there any difference in care requirements? <<none that I can
think of>> My main question is compatibility. What sort of fish
would go in with this guy? Will it be possible to keep other large guys
< dragon wrasse, Hawaiian black trigger, Volitans lion, large
puffers, etc> or will he end up chomping them, and as such being
better with large school of Chromis like fish? <<depends on the
size of the eel, but the first list - these are tough customers,
potentially your best match for an eel neighbor.>> thanks for any
help, I'm still amazed you give out such personal service.
<<you are quite welcome. Cheers, J -- >>
Re: lionfish/porcupine puffer compatibility Thank you so much
for the info! I will have to refrain from getting a lionfish, as
beautiful as they are. And I also really appreciate the information on
my peppered moray eel -- I've been hunting all over the place for
info. One last question -- why doesn't any sell these beautiful
eels? Are they rare in captivity or is there something important I
should know that would explain their absence in the trade?? <Mainly
a "founder effect" likely at work here... Because there is no
established market for this species, divers don't collect them...
and the Catch-22, people don't order them because of lack of
exposure!> He is an easy feeder and isn't real picky (gets a
diet of snails, small crabs, shark meat, krill, silversides, beef heart
as a treat, scallops, squid, etc...). Thanks again, Bryce. <Folks do
go out of their ways (night collecting for instance) for "desired
species" of Morays like Dragons... can be found. Bob
Large Moray eel Species only tanks -
Need an eel expert Large Moray eel Species only tanks --
01/07/09 Afternoon crew, <Morning Joe.> Over the
past several years I have found myself falling in love with
Morays more and more... <Happens.> and what's not to
love (no sickness, easy to feed, not picky about water, long
life, and on and on and on). I currently have a 30" Dragon
Moray in a 75g (pic included) with a shoal of yellowbelly damsels
(I know not ideal), but he is very happy, as well as a large
30" SFE and 18" Brazilian Golden in a 240 Community
tank. Sorry, back to my question at hand..... I want to
eventually do one of several tanks, but I'm not sure what is
feasible. Need some guidance and recommendations. <No problem,
I'm a fellow moray eel fan.> 1. For my other favourite
species a Tesselata (I know 6' and killers), Can 1 be kept in
these size tanks for life? 240sq (48x48x25) 240g (96x2x24) 375g
(96x36x25) 500g (96x48x25) Bigger???? <I'd say the 500g is
the minimum. 600-750 would even be better. I've done what you
plan in about a 240 gallon and after a few years it's already
becoming time to upgrade.> 2. Can multiple Dragon Moray eels
or multiple Tesselata Moray eels be kept together in a species
only tank if the tank is big enough? If so how many and what size
tank? I have personally seen 2 large Tessie's together in a
LFS, but not sure if that will work long term. I have also seen
videos of multiple dragons in 1 tank, but again not sure if it
would work long term. <Yes, for the E. pardalis. Especially in
cases where two have been caught and imported together (mated
pair), they generally can be kept together. In very large tanks
(>800 gallons) even several pairs can work. Just adding a new
one to a existing setup is more risky and can result in extensive
biting. It's essential to provide a sufficient amount of rock
work and caves and I would consider a 240 as the minimum for a
pair. The new one should be slightly larger and adding the eel
should be combined with a change of decoration. The G. favagineus
is more difficult and rarely kept as pairs in home aquariums. In
public setups of several 1000 gallons it should be possible to
keep a pair. In smaller tanks I would not try this. It's best
kept as a single specimen.> 3. Lastly with a Tessy if I wanted
to add PVC pipe behind the LR to reduce the chances of him
crushing himself when he gets huge how big of a diameter pipe
would need to be used, I've yet to see a FULL size adult.
<There you go:
.> I was guessing 3" PVC but was not sure if that was
enough. <Diameter of an adult is greater than 3'. 7'
are more adequate. The rocks should be fixed with concrete to
avoid them tumbling over again and again.> I like the
simplistic approach of pick your favorite species and give him a
tank with lots of small & cheap Chromis and Damsels. Easy to
feed and care for. I would buy the absolute biggest skimmer and
wet/dry I could for this tank and add tons of Live Rock and
caves. Thanks for all the great information and wonderful site,
hope to see one of you guys up at ThatFishPlace in April for the
Spring Open House, I know Anthony has been there several times.
Joe <Good luck with your endeavour. It's good you are
planning ahead. Cheers, Marco.>