|
FAQs About Newts & Salamanders, Amphibians
with tails...: Axolotls, Neotenic Salamanders
Related Articles: Amphibians, Turtles,
Related FAQs: Newts
& Salamanders, Amphibians 1,
Amphibians 2,
& FAQs by Groups/Species: Axolotls, Efts,
Fire Belly Newts, Hellbenders, Tiger Salamanders, Water Dogs, & African Dwarf Frogs, African Clawed Frogs, Rubber Eels/Caecilians, Amphibian Identification, Amphibian Behavior, Amphibian Compatibility, Amphibian Selection, Amphibian Systems, Amphibian Feeding, Amphibian Disease, Amphibian Reproduction,
|
See also on WWM:
Tiger
Salamanders, Water
Dogs,
|
Please help my axolotl!! 2/2/16
Hi! You guys!
<Sas>
Yesterday my axolotl has eaten the fish (the catfish or the cleaning
fish).
The fish has almost sharp spine. The fish is still in his throat and my
axolotl can't either swallow or take the fish away from his throat. I'm very
stressed and don't know exactly what to do. Does somebody have any experience
about it??? Are there possible to just remove it myself?
<Yes and yes! Do hold the Salamander in a wet towel and prize open its mouth
with your thumb and first finger placed on either side of the angle of the jaw.
Reach in with a blunt tweezers and depress the dorsal and possibly pectoral fin
spines of the stuck fish and pull it out of the mouth. >
I hope to here from you guys ASAP.
Best Regards,
Sasimaporn Skarstad
<Please report back post operation. Bob Fenner>
Re: Please help my axolotl!!
2/3/16
Hi again!
My husband and I tried to do what you have told and it seem it was so helpful.
My axolotl has some pain in his mouth while we tried to took the brockie catfish
out. Now the fish has taken and we took my axolotl back to aquarium. We just
keep an eye on him. and my husband put the special salt (credozon) for him. Do
you have some tips after treatment?
<Really to just keep the water clean... sulfa drugs might be suggested if there
was an obvious infection, but I would not use medication/s at this point>
We thank you and really appreciate your help!
Best Regards,
Sasimaporn Skarstad
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Please help my axolotl!! 2/3/16
Thank so much! We will do it. :)
<Ah good>
Have a nice day!
<And you, B>
Re: Please help my axolotl!! 2/4/16
Hi again! My axolotl not interested in foods. Han become very
thin now. I am so stress that he gonna to dead if he eat nothing. Is it maybe
normal after operated?
<Likely so; have you tried small (earth)worms?>
How i can do or just let him be that way?
Best regards,
Sasimaporn.S.Skarstad
<I urge patience; and for you to read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/amphibfdgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Dechlor vs. Axolotls 9/10/15
I had super strong and healthy axolotls, still pretty young but about 6 inches
long. I changed their water the other day and added DeChlor (removes
chlorine and chloramine)
<Mmm; no; not if this is the olde Weco (company) product or its formulation. It
was at least just sodium thiosulfate (hyposulfite) and water. ONLY removes
chlorine, NOT chloramine/s... the latter of which are what we have almost
everywhere in the US>
as I normally do (don't know if this is necessary but the pet stores advised
it).
<A good idea; a better one to treat or not and store new water for a week or
more...>
I usually wait a while to put them back in the tank but totally forgot to do
that and when I put them back, they looked like they were choking. I took them
out and put them in the water I kept them on while I was changing the tank and
they called down. I did the tank all over again because I didn't know if the
DeChlor hadn't neutralized yet or maybe I added too much. Either way, it's been
about three days...the ax babies are still eating but they are not swimming or
playing like they
normally do. They are only crawling around on the bottom of the tank and it
seems like they can't make themselves buoyant. I'm so sad and scared that I may
have caused permanent damage. Any suggestions?
<At this point/time, only to wait and hope... "the damage is done"... Going
forward, DO read on WWM re Dechloramination, and means to prepare water.
Oh! And do know that municipalities at times "pulse" much more sanitizer into
potable water.... Dangerous. Again, storing water to be used allows for
dissipation, neutralization.
Bob Fenner>
Axolotl on the floor
2/19/15
Help Neale
My axolotl jumped out of the tank landed on floor and was there for
don't know how long
When I discovered him he was all shriveled up
Not in good shape
Put him back in water but he is not looking good
<What will happen, will happen. Provided he's still alive now, and
especially if he starts feeding, there's some scope for optimism.
Axolotls can breathe air, and if secondary infections and serious
physical damage are avoided, they can recover from this sort of
accident. Optimise water quality, keep the tank cool and shady, and
offer the best possible food.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl 2/28/15
Hi Neale
Just changed water of my surviving axol and now he seems not to be able to
submerge. Looks like he has air in his tummy that makes him float to top
What do you think is wrong?
<Impossible to say. Constipation is a common problem, but so is swallowing
gravel (if present, which I don't recommend). The Epsom salt treatment (1-3
teaspoons per 5 gallons/20 litres) can be used, alongside lowering the
temperature (15-18 C is ideal). Lowering the temperature reduces their food
requirements, which gives time for any blockages to clear the gut without
causing the Axolotl to starve. Lowering the water level to a floating Axolotl
can touch the ground with his feet will reduce stress. Provided the Axolotl is
otherwise healthy, and especially if it is still feeding, the chances of
recovery are good. But it does take time, even 2-3 weeks.
Cheers, Neale.>
Axolotl Sys.
2/10/15
Hi
<Dora,>
I just read your answer as to amount of water needed for just one
axolotl as well as goldfish. 75 liters.
<Round about, yes.>
Wow. Standard aquariums don't even come that big where I come from. 35
liters the most. This means I have to have one specially made for just
one fish.
<Yikes. What about a pond? Surely in Mozambique an outdoor pond for
Goldfish would work pretty well. But just make sure there's NO chance of
the fish getting into local water bodies, e.g., after heavy rain.>
Did I get the calculations right?
<Yes.>
Also, can I give them fish fillets thawed from supermarket box bought?
<Well, yes, but not the only thing. Goldfish are herbivores more than
anything else. Cooked vegetables (peas, spinach, squashes of all sorts,
courgette/zucchini) and even cooked rice make useful staples, and
they'll also nibble on things like lettuce leaves given the chance.
Small amounts of meaty foods can be added; white fish fillet and prawns,
for example, but
in very small amounts. If at all possible (perhaps mail order?) Koi
pellets will make the best and cheapest staple. But mostly green foods,
as mentioned above, work great. Axolotls are predators, and generally
need meaty foods. Earthworms are excellent foods, if you can get them.
But otherwise small pieces of white fish fillet (tilapia is ideal) and
occasional seafood (squid, prawns mussels, cockles). Prawns and mussels
contain Thiaminase, which causes health problems, so despite being
convenient, shouldn't be used more than, say, 20% of their diet.>
Thank you
Dora
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Re: Axolotl Sys.
2/10/15
Thank you Neale
My goldfish are Ok as far as food.
The axolotls are another story.
I was given pellets for koi fish and told they like it
<Uh, no. Would lions eat grass? Koi is basically salad in a pellet,
ideal for herbivores.>
Mine don't seem to want to eat them
<Indeed not.>
Will try the tilapia
<Good call. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl Sys.
2/10/15
Thanks Neale
<Dora,>
Makes sense but I want to tell you a story not related to fish. When I
arrived in Mozambique early 90s I joined a group of people that wanted
to look after animals in the zoo. There weren't that many. 6 lions all
bred in captivity and during their civil war. They were feed grass and
scraps of waste and had survived for 20 odd years
<Crikey! Doesn't really sound the ideal diet for Lions... Have just read
(online) an article called "Vegetarian Lions and a Smoking Chimpanzee"
and wow!>
Meat was new to them. But they got into it as if they had known what it
was. Last night I gave shrimp and tilapia. Its still standing there.
<The Axolotl? They're pretty hardy. Should do well given the right food
and cool water.>
Don't know when last they eat but am hopeful
<Cheers, Neale>
Axolotl mouth problem 10/30/14
Hi, i have an axolotl that is about 6 inches long. Lately, his
mouth stays open all the time like he is smiling a small smile.
He seems fine otherwise but his mouth never used to stay open. Any
suggestions?
<Persistent "gaping" behaviour in Axolotls is not normal and in some
cases can indicate incipient issues such as swelling of the jaws and
fluid retention (dropsy) caused by internal organ problems. A vet may be
able to pinpoint the problem, but before you call your local vet, let's
review their basic needs. Axolotls need a varied diet (but not too many
mealworms, and never, ever store-bought feeder fish). A variety that
includes earthworms, small pieces of fish fillet and seafood, and frozen
invertebrates such as bloodworms and krill should be good, ideally
supplemented with amphibian pellet foods from time to time. Some foods
are rich in calcium, such as krill, and these are an essential part of
their diet. You can add calcium supplements to any foods offered, and
this is an extremely good idea. They need hard, alkaline water chemistry
(soft water
can cause problems in the long term, as will high sodium levels, so
don't use water from a domestic water softener or add things like
aquarium salt unless you've been told to do so by a vet). Axolotls need
good water quality, so the aquarium must have a filter and regular water
changes. The tank shouldn't be too small either, 20 gallons for a single
adult is about right, but the water level lowered to about two-thirds
the way up the tank, so there's plenty of warm air above the waterline
(breathing cold, dry air from your room wouldn't do your Axolotl any
favours). Finally, they need to be kept relatively cool, room
temperature is usually ideal, i.e., around 18 C/64 F. Any warmer than
that can/will cause problems, and these amphibians do better kept cooler
than that for part of the year if possible, so don't keep your Axolotl
in a centrally heated room but in a cooler basement or at least
somewhere well away from sources of heat and direct sunlight. Review
this list, and anything you're not doing right may be a cause of stress,
and so fixing that problem might improve the health of your Axolotl.
Finally, I'd direct you towards Caudata.org, an excellent forum for
discussion of amphibian healthcare. While similar to fishes in some
ways, healthcare of Axolotls isn't identical, and some medications
suitable for fishes are hazardous to amphibians. Sign up, ask your
question, post some photos, and give detailed information about things
like diet, water chemistry, filtration and aquarium set-up for more
detailed help and commentary than I can offer here on the basis of what
you've told me (which isn't much). Cheers, Neale.>
<<Excellent Neale. RMF>>
Re: Axolotl mouth problem 10/30/14
Thank you for your quick response. I appreciate the help. If the problem
is caused by diet, is it reversible?
<Sure, but the foods you're offering sound fine. The main thing is to
avoid feeder fish completely (not an issue here in the UK, but still
used in some countries, despite all the evidence against their use) and
to use mealworms
only sparingly (while Axolotls like them, their tough exoskeletons don't
seem to be easily digested).>
I feed her with frozen bloodworms, a frozen carnivore fish food (with
fish and shrimp), brine shrimp and axolotl pellets. Also, she is in a 20
gallon tank filled about only two-thirds full with a filter and chiller
which keeps her tank about 67 degrees Fahrenheit.
<That's fine.>
Your notes below says it should be more like 64, so I will lower
that.<Well within their tolerance. The main thing is not to keep them
"tropical" as that shortens their lives. Room temperature, though away
from room
heaters or sunny windows, is usually fine.>
Nitrates and ammonia are at zero.
<Excellent.>
I don't know about the hardness, but I will pick up a test kit today.
<In short, do kettles etc. fur up with limescale quickly? Do you need to
de-scale kettles and other appliances? If you do, you probably have hard
water, so no need to test. But if you have soft/softened water, that
isn't ideal for Axolotls.>
There is not a vet locally that will treat axolotls, so I am unsure what
to try next.
<Depending on where you live, simply using Google, Bing or similar to
search for "vets" and "herptiles" or "vets" and "exotics" may reveal
some local vets who treat reptiles and amphibians. You can also visit
the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians website to do a
search by state, here:
http://arav.allenpress.com/arav/findavet
Mostly US vets, but some elsewhere are listed too. Most vets are able to
treat reptiles and amphibians, they're taught such stuff at university,
though some may choose not to for a variety of reasons. Expense
shouldn't
be a major concern though, since treating reptiles and amphibians is
nothing like as expensive as treating cats and dogs. Again, and I stress
this, Caudata.org is a very helpful place, as is herpetofauna.co.uk,
another excellent forum dedicates to non-mammalian pet healthcare. Since
I'm a fish "expert" rather than an amphibian specialist, I really would
encourage you to visit these forums.>
Again, I appreciate any help you can give. Thank you for your time.
<You're most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
Flint the Axolotl; fdg
11/14/13
Hello, i saw you had an axolotl section in this website and i wanted to
ask you a question. I have a 6 inch male axolotl that i have gotten
recently.
I've been feeding him 1 3 inch worm everyday since i got him and he is
mobile and happy as normal. Is this a suitable amount of food? Do i have
to feed him more or less or is that ok for my axolotl?
<It's probably a bit much, three meals a week is the usual
recommendation, but provided water quality is good (use a nitrite test
kit) I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just make sure the Axolotl
doesn't get fat and isn't regurgitating food. On the other hand, *just*
earthworms isn't a good enough diet; vary the diet with strips of white
fish fillet (such as pollack or tilapia) and bite-size pieces of seafood
(cockles being especially good, while prawns and mussels are useful, but
vitamin-deficient, so to be used sparingly). Most Axolotls take good
quality pellets as well, and these make an excellent staple diet. I'd go
with something aimed at carnivorous fish (like Hikari Sinking Carnivore
Pellets). Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Flint the Axolotl 11/14/13
Thank you!
<Glad to help.>
I'm feeding him some of the pellets now. He likes them a lot! :)
<Good! Just take care not to overfeed. Cheers, Neale.>
Axolotl with blood blister
10/6.5/11
Help
My Axolotl has what appears to be a blood blister at the base of his
dorsal fin as joins the top of his body. He is feeding fine and does
not appear distressed. I panicked and did a complete water change and
he has been back in for two days now. A friend of mine showed a pic to
London Zoo and they said it was most likely to be an infected blood
blister and suggested Baytril; the anti-biotic. Two things is it safe
to purchase this on the Internet to save me vast expense of Vets and
secondly is Baytril safe for Axolotl's and what is the process?
Thank so much, really fretting about Lotl
Julia
<Hello Julia. I'd definitely go with the opinion of the guys and
gals at the London Zoo! Now here's the thing: dosing antibiotics
isn't easy. You need a certain concentration in the water, and
preferably, a dosage worked out for the weight of the animal being
treated. So, as a first pass, I'd actually try a fish-safe
antibacterial. I like something called eSHa 2000, which treats external
bacterial infections rather well. By guess here is that this blister is
a bacterial infection of a small wound on the skin. eSHa 2000 should
take care of that nicely. If this doesn't work within a week or
two, then contacting a vet makes a lot of sense. That'll likely
cost around £20 for the consultation itself, and then the
cost of the antibiotic if needed. Yes, more expensive than the
£5 for a bottle of eSHa 2000, but this time the medication
will be tailored for the animal in question, so the odds of success are
better. Your local branch of the RSPCA may be able to help get you in
touch with a reliable, inexpensive vet somewhere near home. Hope this
helps, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl with blood blister 10/11/11
Thank you so much for your time and help; I will get hold of the eSHa
2000
Julia
<Good luck! Neale.>
Ambystoma mexicanum; care, rearing
I am curious about Axolotls.
<Nice animals.>
I have the option to purchase a few eggs and am interested in learning
about care and rearing.
<Okay.>
The eggs were specified as being "black eggs" - Does this
mean purely 'wild type' or the dark coloration with pink
gills?
<Hard to know. Ask the breeder. All the colour of the eggs tells you
is if the Axolotl is an albino (white eggs) or not (black
eggs).>
Once they hatch, what is the best diet for them?
<Initially, brine shrimp nauplii are best, as you'd do with
newborn egg-laying fish. Very small daphnia might work too. After a
couple of weeks they'll take a wide variety of live and frozen
foods including live daphnia and brine shrimp, live or frozen
bloodworms, live glassworms, and so on. Once around 4 cm long they
should be slowly weaned onto whatever staple pellet food you intend to
use.>
As for rearing tank set up, what depth should the water be,
<10 cm/4 inches is fine initially, but as they become stronger
swimmers, you can deepen the water a bit. Axolotls don't gulp air
very much, and rely mostly on their gills. Provided you have a clump of
floating plants in the tank, e.g., hornwort, they'll use that as a
place to rest should they want to stay close to the surface.>
what temperature,
<Very slightly above room temperature is ideal for newly hatched
ones, 18-22 C, if you want them to grow at maximum speed. But room
temperature is fine, anything from 10-25 C being tolerated well by
adults, and the cooler end of the range actually being healthier for
them during the winter.>
and should there be a low out put aerator in the tank?
<An air-powered sponge or corner filter is certainly essential in
the breeding tank. Scale this upwards as the Axolotls mature, either to
a bigger sponge filter, or to something like an undergravel filter or
external canister filter for adults.>
I have read that in overcrowded tanks, newly morphing axolotls will
cannibalize.
<Yes.>
If there are 10 or less developing in a ten gallon rearing tank, is
this considered a crowded environment?
<Depends on how big they are. If 1-2 cm long, perhaps not; but
you'll soon see evidence of missing toes or nipped gills as they
get larger. Lots of floating plants will minimise problems by offering
hiding places, and obviously if they're well fed on alternative
foods, they'll be less likely to eat each other. The flip side to
generous feeding is poor water quality, so filtration needs to be even
more robust, and water changes even more frequent. You pays your money
and you takes your choice'¦>
For the full grown axolotls, are ten gallon tanks each acceptable?
<Nope. These are very big, carnivorous, territorial animals that
produce a lot of waste. If you want your Axolotl to look good, you want
the longest tank you can find, even if that means only half-filling it
with water. I'd be looking at a tank around 1 m/3.3 ft in length.
Depth isn't critical, but you want at least 20 cm/8 inches for
adults simply so they aren't half-exposed to the air as they
clamber about the plants, rocks and bogwood. So realistically,
you're after a tank around 110 l/30 US gallons in size if you want
to house a couple of adults safely without too much risk of fighting or
cannibalism.>
Thank you!
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Axolotl, beh., sys. -- 10/20/10
Hi,
I purchased an Axolotl about 3 months ago from a reptile store. She has
been going great, eats heaps and seems quite happy. The only problem
that I have found, and after doing much research before and after
purchasing her, is that her external feather like gills have not really
grown, nor were they there when I first purchased her. I did think that
they had started to grow but they have not gotten any longer than about
half a centimeter.
Should I be worried? I was also wondering if it is normal for them to
have quite 'old' looking, wrinkly skin? She was black when I
purchased her but her colour seems to have faded to a grayish colour on
her underside.
Kind Regards,
Louisa.
<Hello Louisa. Yes, Axolotls do have wrinkly skin. So provided the
skin isn't bloody or has odd white patches, and assuming the
Axolotl is adequately fed (no feeder fish!) on earthworms and other
safe foods, the texture of the skin shouldn't be a major source of
concern. Colour does vary, and you do need to be sure that the paleness
is simply the animal changing colour rather than unusual amounts of
mucous, this latter being a sign of irritation, for example non-zero
levels of ammonia and nitrite, or non-dechlorinated tap water, or rapid
changes in pH and hardness. As with any other aquatic animals Axolotls
will be darkest when kept in shady tanks with a dark substrate and
floating plants, and become paler if there are no floating plants,
strong lighting, and/or the use of non-natural coloured gravels or
sand. Note also that these animals have eyes that are damaged by bright
lights, so if you don't have floating plants, e.g., Indian Fern,
don't use aquarium lights at all. As for the length of the gills,
these do vary in length. They should be at least as long as the
distance between the shoulder and elbow, and may be as long as the
distance between the shoulder and wrist. To some degree the size of the
gills varies with water temperature: because warm water contains less
oxygen, Axolotls have evolved the ability to grow larger gills when
exposed to warmer temperatures. However, the gills are easily damaged,
particularly by other Axolotls, fish or turtles pecking at them. Good
advice is to keep Axolotls singly unless the tank is very large and
never alongside fish or turtles. By the same token, handling Axolotls
can cause damage to the delicate gill filaments, so that should be
avoided too. Potentially, sharp sand, gravel and rocks can also cause
damage, so these shouldn't be placed in the tank either. Otherwise,
provided you stick with the ground rules for keeping Axolotls, you
should find them very hardy; in other words, i.e., 20 gallons for a
singleton and 30 gallons for a pair; a good air-powered undergravel or
sponge filter; hard, alkaline water chemistry; 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite;
and room temperature rather than tropical temperatures. Earthworms,
strips of
tilapia fillet, and chopped seafood all make good foods, and as stated
earlier, don't use feeder fish, partly because of the risk of
introducing disease, and partly because fish that aren't eaten can
damage the Axolotl
itself. Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl... fdg.
Thank you, this information has helped put my mind at ease.
<Glad to help.>
I do usually feed her cut up seafood and occasionally add some small
fish (not feeders though as she doesn't seem to like them, usually
neon tetras)
<No! Don't do this. Really, incredibly unwise. Live fish are
single easiest way to make your predator sick. Even ones from the pet
shop. In fact, *especially* ones from the pet shop. Strips of tilapia
will make excellent meaty supplements to the diet of your Axolotl.
Earthworms should be the staple food as these are extremely well
balanced in terms of vitamins.
Seafood is good, but make sure to limit things like prawns and mussels,
as these contain thiaminase that creates problems in the long term.
Cockles are okay, as is tilapia, which is cheap as well, and well worth
using. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm
Many reptiles and amphibians die long, slow deaths from poor
diet.>
for her to eat if she wants. she has left some of them and they have
stayed in the tank.
<Would rehome them ASAP; they don't belong here. At best,
they're tropical fish in a coldwater tank, so bound to die for one
reason or another. At worst their little disease incubators. Keeping
exotic pets is hard enough without throwing needless variables into the
equation.>
I do have a pH testing kit that I have been using, but have never
checked the ammonia or nitrate levels. I am assuming that a similar
testing kit would be used to test these levels also.
<Sure. Assuming you have a biological filter, you only need the
nitrite with an "I" test kit. Ammonite test kits are nice,
but not essential. Nitrate -- with an "a" not an
"I" -- is not essential at all. Weekly water
changes of 20-25% should take care of nitrate automatically, assuming
you're not overfeeding. As I hope you realise, Axolotls do not need
daily feeding.>
Would you be able to suggest to me where I would be able to get a
testing kit for ammonia and nitrate levels so that I can test these for
myself at home?
<Any aquarium shop should have a nitrite with an "I" test
kit. The liquid ones are generally more accurate and better value than
the paper strip ones.>
Thank you,
Louisa.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Axolotl - 11/01/10
Hi,
<Hello,>
I took your advice and all seemed to be well until a couple of days
ago.
<Oh?>
Due to the hot and cold weather last week I thought that Alex being a
little off colour wasn't too bad and that she would be back to
normal in no time. However a couple of days ago she stopped eating and
seemed to have no interest in food what so ever.
<Does sometimes happen, and Axolotls certainly shouldn't be fed
daily. If your specimen isn't eating -- don't feed it, check
the water quality, check the temperature, and wait 3-4 days before
offering some more food.>
I didn't think much of it the first time it happened. But when it
happened two days in a row, I began to become worried.
<I see.>
Then as well as not eating, she began to float on the top of the tank
and couldn't seem to stay on the bottom.
<That isn't normal.>
At this stage she was still quite active. I checked the pH levels in
the tank and they seemed to be fine.
<pH isn't really important, provided it's between 7 and 8.
What about water quality? In other words, either ammonia or
nitrite?>
She seemed to get worse through the day so I took a water sample down
to my local aquarium where they tested it and told me that all the
levels were fine.
<What's "fine"? Pet shops are notoriously unreliable
when it comes to being clear about water quality values. So until you
give me the actual numbers, the fact your pet store said the water is
"fine" means nothing at all to me. If you have a biological
filter, but your own NITRITE test kit, test the water, then tell me the
number. If it isn't zero, then that's very likely why your
Axolotl is stressed.>
I explained to them what had been happening and they suggested that she
could have a digestive parasite for which they sold me some tablets to
add to her water.
<Note how the pet store sold you something. Always the way. It's
crucial to understand that pet shop staff range in quality from the
excellent to the hopeless, with the majority somewhere between the two
extremes. You MUST be able to test the water yourself, so you can use
the results to diagnose problems. For an Axolotl, assuming you have a
filter in the aquarium, and the aquarium is at least 20 gallons/80
litres in size, then a nitrite (with an "I") test kit and a
pH test kit are essential.>
She did however die later on tonight. I was wondering if maybe I had
done something wrong or something to make her so sick so quickly.
<Hard to say without further data.>
I would like to get another axolotl in the next few weeks but want to
know if there was any more I could have done for her or if in your
opinion I did something wrong. I don't want the same thing to
happen to my next pet. I was also wondering if in your opinion, the
diagnosis from the aquarium was the correct one from the information I
have given you as I told them the same thing.
<Honestly, I doubt parasites were the issue, so forget about that.
Most Axolotls die because of a poor environment, a poor diet, or a
combination of the two factors. Let me recommend you buy or borrow a
book called "Keeping Amphibians: A Practical Guide to Caring for
Frogs, Toads, Newts, and Salamanders". This is a very inexpensive,
nicely produced book that you can buy used at Amazon.com for one whole
cent. It covers Axolotls in depth, including their housing and diet. In
the meantime, review environmental conditions in the tank, change the
water, stir the gravel, but remember to keep filter bacteria alive by
adding a pinch of fish food every 2-3 days or a small chunk of fish
fillet once a week. These will decay, produce ammonia, and keep the
bacteria happy. Obviously if you let the bacteria die then the filter
won't be ready for the next Axolotl you buy.>
Kind Regards,
Louisa
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl - 11/01/10
Hi Neil,
<Hello again Louisa>
Your emails have always been helpful, so I thank you for that.
<You're most welcome.>
As for the nitrite and ammonia levels, the guy at the aquarium told me
that they both were at zero.
<Good. Numbers are what we need!>
My pH levels were around 7.5 which was the same as I had tested earlier
that afternoon.
<Again, good. Axolotls need hard, basic water similar to that
you'd use for Central American fish like guppies and
Platies.>
I will most certainly take a look at that book before buying my next
pet. I think it will be useful, even though I did do quite a bit of
research before I bought Alex, pet shops and aquariums were useless at
answering questions.
<As I say, varies from shop to shop. Some stores are run by real
experts, and I know lots of aquarium book writers who worked in
aquarium shops. But some stores are less useful, and it's hard to
tell if your pet shop is one of the good ones or the less good ones. So
having a book that allows you to double check facts is very helpful.
For what it's worth, shops specialising in reptiles and amphibians
tend to be rather better for advice that aquarium shops that happen to
sell a few frogs or axolotls.>
Thank you, Louisa.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Axolotl farm! 5/14/10
Hello,
<Hello Michiko,>
I am trying to raise 100+ baby axolotls.
<Good luck with that...>
At first there were a few deaths each day, then went for a week with no
deaths.
<Cannibalism is an issue, as is water quality.>
I have them in separate trays and I am hand feeding them newly hatched
brine shrimp via pipette.
<OK. But brine shrimp is useful only up to a point, and you will
need to switch them to a wider range of foods quickly.>
I had a set of twins which had made it all the way to having front legs
and looked to be doing really well. This morning I found one of the
twins dead, as they are see through, it looked as if he had a bubble in
his gut.
<The bubble is likely not the cause of death, but merely a sign of
decay within the animal.>
There was also another death in one of the other colonies. I'm
trying to figure out what killed them.
<With tadpoles, other than cannibalism, usually the killers are
starvation and water quality problems. Remember, even if they fill
their bellies with brine shrimps, if vitamins are lacking, they'll
still starve. That's why offering a variety of foods is
important.>
I know that there will be deaths for many reasons, but was a bit
alarmed that one of the "well cared for" twins died. now they
can't grow up together :(
<Not that they'd care. These animals are not at all
social.>
So here are my questions: 1. how big an enclosure will each axolotl
need minimum?
<If you want a permanent home, and don't want to be constantly
cleaning the tank, then allow 130 litres for a male/female pair of
adults. Under lab conditions single adults can be kept in as little as
40 litres, but that will require daily water changes otherwise the
water will get foul pretty fast.>
1.5 what are the risks of using small enclosures?
<The same as with fish: sudden changes in water chemistry/quality;
insufficient oxygen; insufficient dilution of CO2 and waste
products;
nitrate concentration between water changes. These animals are
"grumpy" as well, and if they're overcrowded they will
bite at each other.>
2. what is your recommended amount in each enclosure?
<See above. As pets, I wouldn't keep more than a male/female
pair together in 130 litres. If you're prepared to clean the tank
daily, then you could keep more 4-5 adult specimens in 130
litres.>
3. when should I move them into more individual enclosures?
<As soon as you can. Cannibalism and aggression are both
problems.>
4. how long does it take on average for them to sprout all four
legs?
<Depends on water temperature. At tropical temperatures, they should
have
all four legs within a month.>
5. should I be changing their water every day, or will this stress
the
animals?
<As with rearing baby fish, the more water changes the better.
Provided you dechlorinate the water before use, daily 10-25% water
changes are fine.>
6. when can I shift them to dead food/pellets
<As soon as possible. Try suitable small foods, such as daphnia and
microworms, immediately. As they mature you will switch them to bigger
foods such as earthworms. Once 2-3 cm long they should take pellets and
other foods they can detect by smell -- supposedly, tadpoles only find
food by detecting movement, which is why they ignore pellets.>
7. what are the associated dangers?
<Cannibalism and water quality issues.>
I have spent weeks reading everything on the web I could find, and most
cases people only elect to raise 6-10 of the 100+ eggs.
<Correct. Selling 100 juvenile axolotls is difficult, and housing
them together would require an enormous aquarium.>
I wasn't sure which eggs would hatch and once they did I wasn't
sure which ones would survive, and once many of them seemed to
stabilize, I had problems killing them off!
<Indeed.>
Is death by bubble in stomach quite common, or an indicator of
something seriously wrong?
<No idea.>
I don't want to lose the entire colony!
<Unlikely to do so. But make notes of what you are doing.
Fish/amphibian breeding is ALL about trying things out until you find a
protocol that works for YOU.>
I appreciate any help I can get, and suggestions to other resources on
raising axolotls that I may not have found!
Regards,
A.Farmer
<Cheers, Neale.>
Axolotl not well 12/16/2009
Hi
<Hello Dani,>
Love your website is great!!!
<Thanks>
Please help me I have 2 axolotl's one golden with pink gills and
one is black. The golden one has begun to look sunburnt and has what
appears to be blisters or peeling skin?
<On the whole Axolotls are very hardy, but poor water quality can
cause them to become sick. Check the ammonia and/or nitrite levels.
These should be zero. If they're not, then think about why
that's the case. Make sure you aren't feeding them too much,
that the biological filter is appropriately sized for the tank and the
size of the animals, and that the tank is big enough for the two
Axolotls. A good filter to use for Axolotls is the old fashioned
undergravel filter. So long as the gravel on top of the filter plate is
5-8 cm deep, and there is a good strong water current, this should
provide a low maintenance filtration system that works well. To keep
clean, simply stir the gravel once a week and siphon away the
dirt.>
I have gone to extremes and did a complete water change but I checked
the water before emptying and the PH wasn't too high. We live in
Rural Qld in Australia and temperature gets up to around 33 - 39c on
any given day.
<These are coldwater animals, and anything above 25 C is going to
stress them. Direct sunlight will also harm them, especially the albino
specimen.>
I have them in a cool corner where there is no sun. I am getting very
worried as the golden one hardly ever eats the black one lets me hand
feed him any food bloodworms or pellets but the golden one just waits
for it to drop to bottom, he sometimes will look for it and swallow it,
(I have changed to big rocks as had a problem when the golden one ate
gravel he had a blue belly)
<Gravel doesn't normally cause problems.>
I have tried a few different filters but the pet shop here is only
small and is hard to find what I really need for them. How full should
you have the tank?
<Almost to top, but leaving enough space that they can poke their
noses out of the water should they want to. The water should be at
least 30 cm deep, but deeper water than that is even better. A good
aquarium for them would 75-100 cm long and 30-45 cm deep and broad. In
smaller tanks they tend to fight, biting at one another's gills and
feet. Bullying will prevent the weaker specimen from eating properly.
They are best kept singly or in matched pairs; males have a swollen
cloaca at the base of the tail, while females tend to have shorter and
broader heads.>
The pet shop only had them in shallow water? Would they prefer
that?
<No.>
There names are doodle and noodle and they are my little boys pride and
joy please help, we do love the little critters and are hoping that
they will be ok.
Thanks for all your help.
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl not well 12/17/09
Hi
Thanks so much for speedy response, am on net now and trying to order
online a new filter as my local pet shop doesn't have a big range
and thinking they might not know a lot about axolotls...
<Maybe so. There are some good, cheap books out there about Axolotls
and amphibians in general. One I happen to like is called "Keeping
Amphibians" by Andrew Gray. It's a very easy read, but with
lots of very practical
information as well as activities and facts that will expand your
hobby.>
Again thank you have bought more tests kits today so hoping can keep
water ok for them.
<Good luck. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Axolotl not well 12/18/09
Hi Neale
I am devastated my albino axolotl (doodle) just passed away. Will my
other axolotl (noodle) die too? Am very worried checked water and all
levels are neutral so they say? I can't believe noodle was laying
on doodle
protecting him was very upsetting.
Danielle
<Hello Danielle. I'm sorry to hear about this. It's always
sad when a loved pet dies. I would certainly do a 50% water change just
to be on the safe side, and I'd double check that there aren't
any potential sources of poison in or around the tank (e.g., insect
sprays, paint fumes, careless children dropping things into the tank).
But assuming conditions are good for Axolotls, there's no reason
why the healthy specimen should sicken and die. Just to recap,
we're looking for 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, a pH around 7.5, water that
is "moderately hard" to "hard" (i.e., 10+ degrees
dH), and a temperature between 15-25 degrees C. Bad things for Axolotls
include very warm water, soft water, acidic water, and water that
hasn't been dechlorinated. If you can, use a dechlorinator that
doesn't just remove chlorine but also chloramine, ammonia, and
copper, since all of these things can occur in some tap water supplies.
A good tip is to test the pH of some water the moment it is put in a
glass, and then again 24 hours
later. If the pH is about the same, that's good. But if the pH is
very different, that can imply you have unstable water chemistry. This
sometimes happens with water from wells. You'll need to leave such
water for 24 hours before use, and ideally add some Rift Valley cichlid
salt mix at about 50% the dose needed for cichlids. Note that this
isn't "salt" salt, but a mix of minerals that raises the
pH and stabilises the hardness levels.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Help, my pet axolotl wont eat. 12/07/08 <Oh?
Well, without a little more information, there's not much more I
can say than "too bad". So help yourself but reviewing the
environmental needs of these animals. Chances are, you're failing
on one or more of them, and consequently your Axolotl is sick. Axolotls
need clean, relatively cool water. The tank should certainly contain at
least 30 gallons of water and be equipped with some type of filter,
rated at not less than 6 times the volume of the tank in turnover per
hour. In other words, if the tank contains 30 gallons of water, the
filter should be rated at 6 x 30 = 180 gallons per hour. The tank and
filter need to be so big because these are potentially large and messy
animals. Keeping them in smaller tanks when young is possible but
really a bit stupid, because if healthy they grow quickly and will
either pollute the small tank (getting sick) or outgrow it so rapidly
you've wasted a bunch of money on a small tank and filter of no
further use. Next up, the water should be not too warm. Room
temperature is usually fine; anything around 15-20 C will do. Make sure
the tank isn't much warmer than this, and in particular take care
not to put the tank in direct sunlight or near a room heater, warm air
vent or whatever. Conversely, if the room gets very cold in winter,
adding a fish tank heater set to its minimum setting (typically 18 C)
should keep the water warm enough. It's a good idea to place a
heater guard (a plastic mesh) around the outside of the heater to
prevent burns; some heaters come with these anyway, otherwise buy one.
Just as with any fish, water quality is critical. Amphibians generally
are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite, and if the water isn't
filtered and regularly replaced (50% weekly) they develop a variety of
infections and diseases that are difficult and expensive to treat. So
check (at minimum) the nitrite concentration if you have a filter, and
if you've not yet installed a filter, check the ammonia instead.
Nitrite tells you how well (or not) a filter is working, while ammonia
tells you how poisonous the water is thanks to the waste the Axolotl
has produced. When feeding Axolotls, take care to offer a variety of
things, but sparingly. Don't overfeed, and don't use pellet
foods day in, day out. Pellets are fine a couple times a week, but vary
the diet with chopped seafood, earthworms, bloodworms, and so on.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: help... Axolotl fdg. 12/9/08 my pet
axolotl (Wooper) has stopped eating, I fed him beef and sinking
pellets. He used to happily munch down both, now he barely even eats
his beef. Though he is metamorphosing, he is losing his gills and the
webbing on his tail. I wonder if the metamorphosis could be affecting
his eating. <Hmm... didn't I answer this question a day or two
ago? Do look here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdailyfaqs.htm Look at the
question "help, my pet axolotl wont eat" and you'll see
some comments. In any case, Axolotls do not metamorphose under normal,
home aquarium conditions. If he is losing his gills and webbing, it is
MUCH more likely you are seeing Finrot. As the bacteria destroy the
skin, the gills and fin membranes erode. This is almost always caused
by either [a] poor water quality; or [b] aggression between
individuals, with poor water quality making things worse. Review water
quality ensuring that you have ZERO ammonia/nitrite levels and a steady
pH; check your filtration is adequate; ensure water temperature
isn't too high; and if anything doesn't seem right, then act
accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Primitive fish? ID... Axolotl likely
11/27/2007 Hi there, I was a sushi restaurant tonight and they have
a tank (~50 gallons) with an eel-looking fish in it, but it has two
feet (with little bitty toes) up front in place of fins, no fins in the
back (one long caudal fin/back fin?) and it has external lungs (I
think?) they look little flowers instead of ears. It has a flattened
head with two nostrils on the underside also. No one at the restaurant
knew what it was. One girl said it is a water salamander. I have done
searches since I got home, and no luck yet. She said it also buries
itself/wedges itself bc it seems to float otherwise? I saw it just
sitting on the bottom. It was in a tank with some other fish
(Arowanas-I think, and some angelfish -looking things). Just wondering
if you could help me out. I know it is not a mudskipper, and the
pictures you guys have of Ropefish and some bichirs and lungfish look a
little bit like it, but no external lungs?? <Greetings. The feathery
structures you are calling "lungs" would be external gills.
Certain amphibians have gills throughout their life, the most famous of
which is the Axolotl. Oddly enough, *baby* Bichirs do in fact have
external gills, but they lose them once they are more a couple of cm
long. It's almost certain this animal was an Axolotl. The varieties
kept by hobbyists are usually either grey or pink. Axolotls have broad
mouths and short stubby arms and legs. Typical size for an adult is
around 20-30 cm. Axolotls are essentially salamander tadpoles that
never metamorphose into adult terrestrial salamanders, and just stay
being tadpoles, getting bigger and bigger but otherwise not losing
their juvenile characteristics. This process -- neoteny -- is
surprisingly common in the animal kingdom, and there's good reason
to believe that humans are in fact neotenic apes, since in many ways we
have the physical attributes of juvenile apes (lack of body hair, big
head, flat face, constant learning ability etc.). I hope this helps.
Cheers, Neale.> <<Great, Neale... RMF>>
Axolotl hlth., no useful info. -- 03/18/07 Hi
I have an axolotl he has been vomiting all day
no its more like dry reaching because nothing comes out All my water
levels are fine <Data, not subjective evaluations> I have large
rocks on the bottom but I'm thinking maybe he has swallowed one
what are the changes that he has. <Possibly> He also goes up for
air and then tries to vomit again I have owned axolotls before and
I've never seen this. Any advice would be appreciated
Therésè <You've presented no useful
information... on system, maintenance, water quality, foods/feeding...
Can't read minds (that well)... Bob Fenner>
Re: axolotl 3/19/07 My ph is sitting at 7.4
My ammonia levels are at 0 nitrate is at 0.05 <Good> He is feed
every 2 days aqua master axolotl food about 5 pellets we had feeder
fish in the tank <A very poor idea. Not suitable prey, and carry
disease...> but he took no interest in them so they were removed my
tank is 600mm by 300 by 400 just over half full I'm
using a crystal clear aquarium 380 filter with 3 stage
filtration at 100 litres an hour his water is changed at 1/3 every 10
days I'm using A.C.E ammonia chlorine eliminator <I would stop
using this product (used to contain Formalin... toxic), and just let
new water set about for a few days ahead of use> and aqua plus water
conditioner all my rocks are the size of a 50c piece or bigger there
are no plants in he tank he has one round barrel to hide in I don't
use a light and I have no water temperature gauge hope that is enough
information for you Therésè <Other than doing
away with the "treatment" above, I would try more
"lively" foods... Worms of appropriate size, and insect
larvae... e.g. Blackworms (Ambystoma means "cup mouth"; they
scoop up their food), earthworms, mealworms... Bob Fenner>
Axolotl - damaged limbs 1/6/07 Hello
Crew at WWM. I have a sad but true story, and am hoping that you may
have some advice to help. We have an adult female Axolotl which was
attacked by an Australian Bass that was temporarily placed in her tank.
<A mistake> Her hind feet are now gone, as are most of her front
legs and a large part of her tail. She now remains in one spot in the
tank, but on the very odd occasion will try and move (with difficulty),
and her frilly gills still 'wave' every now and again. She
hasn't eaten for 5 days now. I wasn't sure of the likelihood of
her regenerating the limbs and tail given the extent of the damage and
her age? <Mmm, one can only do their best, be patient, and hope>
The damaged limbs and tail turned white and eventually the white part
'disintegrated' over the space of two days. Is this what
usually happens to damaged limbs in water or could it have been some
sort of bacteria? <Yes> I have done a water change and am
monitoring the water to keep it as clean as possible to give her a
better chance of recovery. I have heard that salt baths can
assist with some Axolotl infections, though wasn't sure if it would
do much good given the extent of her injuries in this case? <I would
be careful re the amount of salt administered here... Perhaps a level
teaspoon per ten actual gallons of system water> My main concern is
that she is not interested in her food. She is hand fed, usually frozen
blood worms, and she normally loves her food. Since she was attacked, I
have literally been holding food right up to her mouth, but she turns
her head away. Is there something else I could feed her or place in the
water at this time to help her eat? <Perhaps some live (other)
insect larvae and/or freshwater worms (tubificids)... an occasional
earthworm/nightcrawler of small size... I would administer a
vitamin/food stimulant product (these are packaged/sold for aquarium
use... either marine or freshwater, doesn't matter here... And I
might consider adding a source of useful iodine/ide... to possibly aid
repair, conversion...> If you have any other suggestions that would
help in regards to her comfort or the healing process I'd be
grateful. Thank you. <Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>
Axolotl trouble - 4/20/6 This is the first time I
have ever tried to contact any of your crew, but I really am in need of
some advice. Firstly I have a 4ft x 1ft x 2ft coldwater
tank, how many gallons is it? <<It is a nominal 60-gallon, but
holds a few gallons less than that.>> Secondly all my fish who
cohabit with my two seven year old axolotls are fine except for one,
which recently has presented what looks like a few scales missing on
one side, but more worryingly doesn't seem to be able to open his
mouth, what on earth could this problem be? <<Could be a myriad
of things. Do you mean the axolotl is experiencing this? Do
the standard tests for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, to be sure these
aren't the culprit. Make sure water quality is high,
temp is in the low 60's.>> And how should I go about helping
him? <<Read here: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4301/axolotlhealth.htm and
browse through the topics on the left hand side menu. You
should find what you are looking for.>> Thank you very much for
your trouble. <<No trouble at all, I'm glad to help.
Lisa.>> Emily-Jane, Lancashire.
Looking For Aquatic Herps - 2/21/2006
I'm interested in acquiring axolotls for a home aquarium as pets
and hopefully breeders. However; while I have found plenty
of information about them and their care; I have had no luck in finding
out how to actually obtain one as a pet. I've only
managed to find biological labs which will only sell to
researchers. Could you tell me where to find a
dealer/breeder for axolotls, or perhaps a classified/auction site where
they are likely to be available from private hobbyists? Any
information would be much appreciated. < Kingsnake.com is like eBay
for snakes, lizards frogs, turtles and salamanders. You will find
someone there to sell you one.-Chuck>
Amphibians in aquarium? and freshwater plenums,
anemone questions I was skimming over your site again; this time
the fresh water section and I saw the amphibian part. <Yikes... yes,
another "section" started... to fit a few incoming FAQs...
that needs/deserves serious/non-serious "skull sweat"...
input, imagery...> There's only a little about aquatic frogs so
I was wondering if you could help me with something else. Could you put
Axolotls in an aquarium with fish? <Hmm, yes... have seen these
neotenic salamanders placed, kept with peaceful fishes in private,
public aquariums> I've got 2 in a 20g upright with no heater or
anything for filtration, there are 3 Cory cats in there too they're
doing great but I was wondering if I could set up my 180 as a
freshwater-tropical and put them in? <Not so much tropical... Though
my fave hobby sites for Ambystoma:
http://www.fortunecity.com/Roswell/chupacabras/4/calixto.htm states
they can/will live at 75F... I would use this as an "upper
limit" temperature wise.> Is there an average temp that the
fish and axolotls will tolerate together? I know cannibalism could be a
problem with smaller tetras but I'm willing to take that risk.
Also; have you ever heard of using a plenum in a fresh water system?
<Yes, have even done this... for decades...> How well would/does
it work? are there drawbacks? <Same sort of arrangement as
marine... an hypoxic water area on the bottom (good to have a drain
arrangement for here...), a grade or two of media above separated by a
screen (I put soil mix in under the screen with coarser gravel...).
Downsides: some chance of anaerobiosis...> My saltwater plenum works
great but there is quite a bit of Cyanobacteria lately (the tank's
a year old), is that an issue in a fresh water tank? <A
possibility... but with regular "good" maintenance, use of
live plants... a calculated risk...> my last question is in regards
to my anemone. I bought it as a "corn" anemone. It's
Bright green with orange tips and it's bubbled (just like a bulb
anemone) but I haven't seen any bulbs anemones with this
coloration. It's scientific name started with R., so it definitely
wasn't labeled as e. quadricolor. <Mmm, maybe a
"Radianthus" species, or one that is labeled as such...
Please take a look through our general coverage of Anemones:
http://wetwebmedia.com/anemones.htm ... You may see this species, and
find that Clowns will pair up with ones that they don't do
naturally in captivity...> My maroon lives in it too. And one more
-sorry-. What's normal growth rate for anemones? This one's
almost doubled its size in 2 months (I feed silver sides too) it's
also got funny division around the tentacles; some are splitting up to
4 times on each one. Is that normal. <Normal under highly favorable
conditions... or it may be this specimen was/is "just
expanding"... get squeezed down for shipping...> Sorry for the
length. Your advice is appreciated as always. Dustin <Thank you for
writing. Bob Fenner>
Axolotl with a belly full of? Good morning! I have
a long question that might not have a very happy answer. I
recently purchased an axolotl at a local pet store, he seems to be in
good condition and he acts normally. (He's really nearly the
neatest thing I've had in my freshwater tank) but
he's got a large mass in his stomach, it's
black. I'm well aware that anything they can fit into
their mouths, they will, but are they able to pass anything they can
fit in? The place that I bought him from admitted they
didn't know a whole lot about him, just the basics,
"They're freshwater....and I guess they'll eat just about
anything" And that was it. I bought him and
spent the evening doing research (I know I know! that's
the wrong order, but he was so cool!) So in my reading I
found out that they shouldn't be kept in gravel bottom tank because
they have a tendency to swallow gravel, and therein lies my
problem. The tank at the LFS has a gravel bottom, as does my
own tank, I quickly moved the gravel to only one side of the tank (the
side that I don't put the food on) but I think he swallowed a fair
amount of gravel regardless. This particular axolotl is 4-5
inches long, he's been eating normally and I haven't really
noticed anything weird except for that his belly looks like its full of
something black. I haven't seen any evidence that
he's passed anything since I brought him home (god knows he's
been eating though - two dozen white cloud and more brine pellets than
I can imagine.) I'm not sure if I should just wait it out or what I
should think. Forgive me for my lack of
preparation! You're advice would do me
wonders. Thank you for your time.
Rachael
<Not much to do at this point with this neotenic salamander. I would
just keep up its maintenance and hope for the best. Bob Fenner>
He Put the "Otl" in Axolotl.. My axolotl's
gills are badly damaged! What can I do?!?. <The best thing to do
with any sort of amphibian/salamander/axolotl when they have body
damage is to simply make sure that the animal has freshwater in which
to live in. They usually heal themselves quite quickly when
given a bacteria free environment with nice freshwater.> Can the
water's PH balance cause this? Can he repair himself? <The pH
shouldn't have effected the animal in that way, unless the water
levels are extremely acidic. If his gills are damaged by
tears then hi might have an aggressive tankmate that's hurting
him. Or perhaps he has some skin/gill parasites that are
making him rub on things damaging his own gills. There are
some great sources online to learn more about axolotls. here
is one with some brief info. http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4301/axolotlhealth.htm
Hope that helps.-Magnus>
Axolotl Hi guys, Your site really helps heaps! Anyway, I got
an axolotl a while ago and named him Chips. Chips is gold, and eats
those frozen blood worm blocks, anyway, at the fish store they told me
to hand feed him, otherwise he wouldn't eat much, so I went home
and stuck my hand in the water with the food. He then tried to hide in
the corner and his tail touched my hand, He then freaked out and
started swimming round the tank like mad, he then hit his head on the
glass and sat on the bottom of the tank for ten minutes hardly
breathing. He recovered and I've decided not to hand feed him again
until I find out how. <good plan, they will need to become
comfortable with their surroundings first, then recognize you as the
one who brings the food. Even after that, getting your hands
in the tank is a slow process.> I now try to push the block down
into the water so it will sit on the bottom, in the hope that he would
find it and eat it. But as you should know, The blocks start to
disintegrate and the worms fly everywhere. He then spends ages trying
to push his head between the river pebbles, in an effort to grab
whatever he can. <Use finer gravel, and searching for them is part
of the fun. Try different foods, formula one is good and meaty and
sinks, beef heart, live Night crawlers, etc.> I'm worried that
he's not eating what he should, and that I'm missing out on
being an axolotl owner, how do I "train" him to trust me?
<In the words of Otis Redding "Try a little
tenderness". It may be a while before he adjusts to
hand feeding, just focus on the husbandry aspects at first, then once
he gets used to you can move in for the hand feeding. I
found this site, you may find it of some use. http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4301/axolotlfood.htm
Best Regards, Gage> Thanks, It would really be appreciated
Chip's Owner++
