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FAQs on Rosy Barbs

Related Articles: Barbs, Danios & RasborasA Barbed Response; Wrongly maligned for being fin-nippers, barbs are in fact some of the best fish for the home aquarium by Neale Monks

Related FAQs: Barbs, Danios, Rasboras 1, Barbs, Danios, Rasboras 2, B,D,R Identification, B,D,R Behavior, B,D,R Compatibility, B,D,R Selection, B,D,R Systems, B,D,R Feeding, B,D,R Disease, B,D,R Reproduction,

 

Bronze Cory Help!!! 10/17/09
First off I want to say that your site has been a great deal of help. As a first time fish owner I have used your site as a resource in having a happy and thriving tank.
<Thanks for the kind words.>
I have had my 35 gallon fresh water tank since end of April. I followed the beginner guidelines in circulating the tank before I put in any fish. Right now I have four rosey barbs, a rainbow shark, Pleco, and three bronze Corys and so far haven't had any problems until today.
<Sounds an interesting mix. While the Rosy Barbs and the Corydoras both appreciate somewhat cool water, Rosy Barbs can be "fin nippers" and work best in large groups (six or more specimens, a mix of males and females) so they busy themselves chasing one another around rather than other fish.
Rainbow Sharks can be feisty, and the Plec will get far too large for this aquarium. So you will have some problems to fix before too long.>
Icky, one of my Corys went missing this week. I searched the tank and he was no where to be found. Today, we did a 60% water change and put in some Columbian drift wood. After picking up a rock that was, until today, thought to be a safe tank decoration - out zooms icky the Cory catfish looking pretty rough. For the first couple of minutes of being free from his confines he was laying on his side. After a little more time passed he's sitting in his natural stationary, but upright, position. It looks as though the barbs made a meal of a few of his fins, and he has several spots that have been worn from trying to wiggle out from beneath the rock.
<Yes: Rosy Barbs will indeed nip at fish. For whatever reason, Corydoras are "sitting ducks" where nippy fish are concerned. I find that whereas Plecs and Synodontis keep out of the way, every time I've kept Corydoras with, say, Puffers or Ameca splendens, they've had their dorsal fins nipped.>
It looks as though he's on the track of pulling through, but you never know with fish. Do you have any advice on how to treat this situation?
<Beyond clean water, I'd not do anything else apart from separate them.
Corydoras fins heal very quickly, and like many catfish, they're likely to react badly to copper or formalin, so I wouldn't use either unless I absolutely had to. So move the school of Corydoras to an aquarium of their own, something 20 gallons upwards, and let them settle down and be happy.
Rosy Barbs sound like a poor choice of tankmate here. You might even get rid of the Rosy Barbs; when all is said and done, they're big fish (up to 15 cm/6 inches) not suited to 35 gallon tanks.>
I'm worried that icky may not make it.
Thanks!!!
Kristin
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Bronze Cory Help!!! 10/17/09
The rosey barbs and the Corys get along, they really mind to themselves or get chased every once in a while by the shark. Luckily the only issue we have had with the barbs is that they chase and nip at each other.
<What they do. If kept in large groups, six or more, and ideally more females (yellow-green) than males (pink) then they tend to settle down. In the right tank, a spacious subtropical system, they're superb fish.>
We are fairly certain that the reason why icky the Cory cat has had a good amount of his fins nipped off is because he was literally stuck under the rock but the barbs could still get to him.
<Whether he got stuck under the rock, or was hiding to avoid being nipped, is difficult to answer. Both explanations are possibilities.>
Right now the rough looking Cory looks as if he is acting normal, but he really looks rather rough.
<Indeed. Usually, Corydoras heal very well. The common species like Bronze and Peppered Corydoras have become so popular precisely because they are so durable.>
We know of the issue with the Pleco out growing our tank. We have a home for him when he gets big enough in a 300 gallon brackish cichlid tank at a restaurant that we frequent.
<A home perhaps, but a bad one. Plecs ARE NOT brackish water fish.>
There is also a home for him at the koi fish pond at the local botanical gardens.
<Unless this Koi pond is somewhere tropical, then that's not an option either. These fish die when exposed to water temperatures below 20 C (68 F) for any length of time. In the US for example, Southern Florida is the only place where these fish are likely to survive outdoors in an unheated pond.>
We've made sure that he will have a place to go when we can no longer care for him.
<Hmm... not impressed so far with the options.>
Looks as if we'll just have to wait and see how icky fairs. Keep your fingers crossed for us! Thanks for the tips!
<Happy to help.>
Also, about the barbs - we'll definitely consider trading them in for more suitable tank mates. Any recommendations??
<Depends, and the thing with many schooling fish is that if you don't keep enough, many species can become nasty, even Danios. One of the single best schooling fish species in the trade is the X-Ray Tetra (Pristella maxillaris). This species is very hardy and very peaceful; it is also rather pretty. I don't care much for the albino form, but it exists if that sort of thing amuses.>
Much appreciation, Kristin
<Cheers, Neale.>

Flipping Rosey Barb - 6/20/08
Hi,
My rosey barb will be swimming normal, then just start flipping and spinning, then go back to swimming normal again. Sometimes it's just 1 or 2 flips, other times it goes on for about 15 seconds. She (?) appears to be fine otherwise. Her appetite is good. I thought maybe she was constipated, so I tried giving peas for the dinnertime feedings for a week. (Morning feedings are either flakes or shrimp pellets.) She loved the peas, but it didn't stop the flipping. She shares the 40 gallon tank with a Pleco, 4 adult platies and 12 baby platies. The platies and Pleco are all fine. The water temp is 80, the nitrate is 0, nitrite is 0, water is soft, alkalinity is 80 and the pH is 7.0. I change the filter and 25% of the water weekly. The flipping has been going on for about 2 months. Any suggestions?
Lisa
<Hello Lisa. There are diseases that can make fish swim in odd ways, such as the 'Whirling Disease' caused by Myxobolus cerebralis, but to be honest these are rather uncommon, and usually introduced via live foods (especially Tubifex) and don't get "caught" by jumping between fish in aquaria. That's why they don't just appear out of nowhere. Also, given this fish has exhibited these symptoms for 2 months and remains otherwise healthy, I'm more inclined to put this down to (perhaps) genetics or nervous system damage. If she remains happy, then just assume she's a bit quirky, and love her all the more because of it. Cheers, Neale.>

Mysterious ailment, Rosy Barbs  1/15/08
Hi Crew,
<Leah,>
I've been researching the internet for hours trying to diagnose my new fish.
You guys (well mostly Neale) have helped me a lot in the past, so I'm hoping you can give me some advice now as well. I recently purchased 10 rosy barbs, 3 of which are a gold colored variety. They were labeled gold rosy barbs in the store, and they are identical in all respects to the regular rosy ones except for the coloration, and these 3 were housed in a different tank in the store.
<Hmm... sure these aren't just females? Male Rosy Barbs are orangey-pink, females greenish-gold.>
Having learned from my numerous past mistakes, I am quarantining all my new barbs before moving them into my main 55-gallon tank. I bought them last night. As of this afternoon, one of the gold rosy barbs seems ill.
It hovers in one place, either near the bottom or middle of the tank, and does not interact with the other fish (all of whom are, so far, active and healthy looking). It moves its gills rapidly and--here's the weird part--its mouth seems stuck open.
<Have seen this before. Sometimes caused by the jaws being dislocated, but other times genetic: these fish are bred in ponds, and often with little by way of quality control. Do check to see if the jaw is deformed (e.g., too short) rather than stuck open. On the other hand, given the hyper-ventilation of the gill cavity, it is entirely possible we're looking at a fish that is "suffocating" in some way.>
That is, it is not gasping for water; rather, it does not move its mouth at all. I read online that barbs are susceptible to velvet, so this is my first guess.
<Few fish aren't sensitive to Velvet; regardless, problems with breathing are a typical early symptom because the velvet parasite often attacks the gill membranes before it attacks any other part of the fish. So you can have a fish suffering from Velvet but not exhibiting any other external symptoms, such as the icing-sugar powder we typically associate with the disease.>
However, there is no flashing among any of the fish, and the sick one does not have clamped fins. It moves its tail and fins actively, although it does not move from the spot where it hovers.
It does not appear to have any visible velvet patches, but this fish is already a metallic gold color, so the velvet might be hard to see.
<Indeed. I'd treat for Velvet anyway, just to be on the safe side. Barbs aren't sensitive to copper or formalin, so this should work fine.>
The only symptoms seem to be the gill movement, the open mouth, and the staying in one spot. No other fish is (again, so far) showing these symptoms. Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are 0. What should I do? I have Coppersafe as well as salt on hand. Should I leave the sick fish alone or treat the tank?
<Treat all the new Barbs. If one has it, the others will have it by now, even if they are not yet showing symptoms.>
Should I remove the sick fish?
<Not yet. With schooling fish especially, moving sick fish often stresses them, reducing the odds of a good recovery.>
The problem with that would be that I don't have another filter for another hospital tank. Your advice is greatly
appreciated. --Leah
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Mysterious ailment 1/15/08
Hi Neale, thanks for the help. Unfortunately the one little gold one didn't make it, but I've treated the quarantine tank with Coppersafe, so now I'll just have to wait and see how the others fare.
<Hi Leah. Sorry about the loss.>
Thank goodness I quarantined.
<Indeed.>
I have one follow up question about the gender of my fish. You suggested that the gold ones are females, and after looking at photos online, I agree.
I did actually research this before going to the pet store, because I wanted a group of fish containing about 2 females per every male, after reading numerous sites saying this grouping reduces aggression. When I got to the store and saw the 2 types of barbs in 2 different tanks, I asked the guy working there if they were the same fish, and if they would school together.
He answered no to both questions.
<Then probably doesn't know very much about fish! Rosy barbs of both sexes have a very distinctive look to them, in particular the big, metallic scales. While there are "true" Golden Barbs in the hobby of various species, to the best of my knowledge, they don't have the big scales.
http://www.fishbase.org/summary/speciessummary.php?id=4714
The black spot close to the base of the tail is typical of the species, at least in its wild state.>
When I told him I wanted more females than males, he told me that the "duller" rosy barbs were females. Now that I've got them home and thought about this, I believe the duller one are simply younger males.
<This much is certainly true: Rosy Barbs don't get their full colours until they're mature, and that's well up to 14 cm/5.5" in length, much bigger than you see them in the shops.>
I also believe this pet store guy didn't have a clue about the fish he was selling :)
<Quelle surprise.>
Anyway, I bought 7 rosy barbs, plus the last 3 of the gold rosy barbs the store had, mainly because I knew they are a schooling fish and I felt sorry for the remaining 3. I hoped they would all school together, contrary to what the employee said. And, of course, they do because they are all the same species. But will I have aggression problems with my group of 7 males and 2 females? Are such problems inevitable, or
does it depend on the individuals' temperaments?
<Depends on many factors other than sheer numbers, though I dare say trying to swap some males for females, or add some more females as and when, would help.>
I don't believe these guys are sexually mature yet, but do you think the dead female was already the victim of male aggression?
<Unlikely.>
Thanks again. (PS - I was browsing magazines in a bookstore last week, flipping through Tropical Fish Hobbyist, and there you were! Good article!)
<Thanks, and happy to help. Neale.>

Re: Mysterious ailment, new long-fin rosy barbs    1/25/08
Hi Neale,
<Hello again,>
I have a follow-up question regarding my new long-fin rosy barbs, who are still in qt. Back on Jan. 15, after one fish died and I suspected velvet, I added Coppersafe at the recommended dosage (5 ml per 4 gal). Since then I've been doing a 20% water change every day, or every other day, to keep the water quality high, and I've been replacing the Coppersafe accordingly.
<Hmm... this isn't usually what you need to do. Copper-medications break down very quickly, typically within 24 hours. If you "top up" the amount when you do a water change the next day, you're effectively adding an extra dose rather than replacing what's already there, because the stuff you put in earlier has broken down. Hence you have to be very careful. It's normally recommended you lay off water changes through courses of medication so that the precise dose is as per the manufacturer's intentions. Copper is toxic to everything, even fish, so you need to balance the dose between toxicity to the pathogen and toxicity to the fish.>
I have the API copper test kit, which tests for chelated copper such as what's in Coppersafe, but of all the hard-to-read color scales, this one takes the cake. However I do believe that I am between 1 and 2 ppm, which is within the levels Coppersafe claims to produce.
<OK.>
As of today, Jan. 24th, there have been no other symptoms of velvet. However, I have been seeing what may be ich, although it is very difficult to tell on these fish since they are iridescent. There are two fish with one white spot each, one on a tail fin and one on a stomach fin (not the scientific name for that one, I know),
<It's the anal fin if unpaired, and the pelvic fins if paired.>
but neither of these spots are unambiguously ich spots, and I've been noticing them now for at least 6 days.
<Ick/Whitespot looks like grains of salt; velvet tends to be golden rather than white, though not always, but the cysts look like icing sugar.>
They could just be the fishes' coloration. My question: How long is it safe to keep the Coppersafe in the water? I've read online that it's potentially very toxic, especially when improperly dosed.
<Correct. You want to use the minimum amount. I'd recommend doing one course of the medication, then at least two 50% water changes before beginning a second course. Do remember Velvet and Ick/Whitespot are only killed once the parasites become free swimming -- the cysts on the fish are untreatable.>
I measure accurately, but that test kit gives me no peace of mind. I've considered switching to Rid-Ich+, which I've used successfully in the past, but I haven't because 1) I'm not sure it's ich; and 2) I don't want to lose time on the ich cycle trying to remove the Coppersafe before using the Rid-Ich+.
<I tend to choose (and recommend) medications that work against Velvet and Ick equally well. There are several such medications.>
I should add that I also have 1 tsp of salt per gallon in the tank, which I added because I read that it was ok to use with copper, and because some of the long-fin barbs have torn fins. They came from the pet store this way. I'm not sure if it's fin rot, but I read that salt and clean water may do as much good as antibiotics, so I added the salt to be safe.
<Hmm... not sure salt is "as good" as antibiotics, but salt will (perhaps) inhibit infections from getting started and it does moderate any osmotic stress caused by the break in the epidermis.>
(I should say, too, that, so far, my biological filter has been ok, and ammonia and nitrites are 0, nitrates around 10). So now I'm just wondering how long to keep my barbs exposed to the copper.
<I'd run one full course -- no water changes during it -- and then wait a few days. If no result, run a second course with the same brand of medication. There are some resistant Ick strains that need two course to be dealt with. Wait a few more days. If *still* no improvement, try a different medication or therapy, perhaps the salt + warm water option described elsewhere on this site.>
I don't want to harm them with the
medication. Thanks for your help!
Leah
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Mysterious ailment  1/25/08
Hi Neale, thanks for the information. I'm a bit worried now about the amount of water changes I've been doing. The CopperSafe package says that its chelated copper is very "stable" and that one dose of CopperSafe will treat the water for over one month.
<Hmm... I'm not familiar with this medication, so I'd tend to be cautious here. Add the required amount. Wait a week. Do 25-50% water change as per normal. Since you have a copper test kit, test the copper level. If it's within the safe zone, add another dose. Repeat as required. In a tropical aquarium, the Ick cysts mature in about 3 days; after that point, the parasites are vulnerable to the copper and should be killed quite quickly.>
Other than that, it doesn't recommend a set "course" of treatment. Would one course be, then, just what I observe when looking for signs that the ich cycle is complete?
<Pretty much.>
It's the "treats water for one month" claim that's confusing me, because I don't want to just leave it in the water indefinitely when the symptoms of any illness are still unclear. I'll wait to hear from you, but I'm thinking that since the water's been treated for 10 days now, I may run some carbon today and start removing the CopperSafe.
<Sounds fair to me. Actually, remind me again what fish we're talking about here. Rosy barbs? I'd probably go with heat + salt and be done with CopperSafe. 2-3 teaspoons of salt per US gallon, with temperature at least 82F. Make the water and temp changes gradual (couple days) and leave running thus for at least 7 days. Then slowly return things to normal. This is the standard approach for dealing with Ick on things like Clown Loaches which tolerate copper poorly.>
I'll then wait and see if what may or may not be ich materializes any further, and then switch to a different treatment if it
does. Thanks again.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Type of Catfish Compatible with Rosey Barbs  1/5/08
Hello,
<Hello Vera,>
First of all, thank you for being such a wonderful information source! I've been reading the web site for some time now although I cannot find any exact advice regarding my issue.
<Oh...?>
I have a 14 gallon tank with 4 Rosey barbs that has a brown algae outbreak. Two days ago, I returned home to find the heater "cranked up" to 90 degrees F. Luckily, the barbs all survived but the brown algae is becoming worse.
<Hmm... 14 gallons a bit small for Rosy Barbs (Puntius conchonius); maximum size is 15 cm/6", though typically only about half that in aquaria.>
I purchased an Emerald Corydoras but the barbs attacked him so bad that I moved him to another tank with 3 bronze Corydoras.
<Very unusual behaviour. Usually these barbs are quite well behaved. Ordinarily, I'd expect subtropical Corydoras (e.g., Peppered, Bronze, Bearded Corydoras) to do well with Rosy Barbs.>
Do you advise getting an algae eater for this issue or attempting to treat the algae.
<The easiest way to treat algae is to improve the growth of live plants by adding more light. Floating plants are easiest for this, but any fast-growing plants will do. Algae-eaters generally have moderate to no effect, and in the long term only increase the pollutants in the water, helping algae grow faster. Besides, your tank is a bit overstocked already.>
I have performed a 50% water change; and turned the temperature down to 76 degrees F.
<Too warm: these are subtropical barbs. Aim for 20C/68F.>
The tank has plastic plants, a resin tree stump, a "real" rock from an established tank and light colored medium river stone.
Thank you so much for the assistance!!
Vera
Have a good day!
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Ich and the scaleless barb   8/14/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Dear Claire. Tom here this afternoon.>>
Congratulations on your fantastic and informative site - it has been an invaluable resource as I set up my first tropical tank.
<<Very glad to hear it, Claire.>>
Unfortunately that tank has now come down with ich (due to an unquarantined new arrival - long story, and I've learned my lesson...) - I saw one or two spots on fins this evening.
<<An Ich infestation is a pain in the backside to have to deal with but it’s a far cry from other problems that might have occurred. Sorry you learned the hard way but all of us have learned something in this hobby the hard way so welcome to our club.>>
I have Nox-ich to treat it with but would like some advice on dosage, due to the presence of a 'mutant' fish. The tank contains 6 female rosy barbs (rescued feeder fish), five tetras and a Bristlenose catfish (gradual stocking still in progress). One of the rosy barbs has no scales.
<<Hello? Haven’t heard of that one, Claire. Interesting…>>
She is in all other respects a perfectly healthy (before the ich) and active fish. I assume the lack of scales means that I should treat the tank at a lower dosage level, but would like your input before I do.
<<Not to send you back to the LFS unnecessarily, Claire, but neither your Tetras nor your Bristlenose Pleco are going to appreciate the Nox-Ich formula which contains sodium chloride (salt) and malachite green as its active ingredients. Even at half-dosages you’d really be putting yourself on “aquarium watch” for signs of stress with your pets. Additionally, as I see below, you have a planted tank. Plants don’t much care for salt, either. I don’t want you wasting time here – nor your money – but Kordon’s Rid-Ich may be the better choice of medications given the circumstances. It’s a combination of malachite green and formalin but, in combination, at lesser concentrations than would be found with other medications using one, or the other, exclusively or nearly so. In combination with each other, these are very effective even when “dosing down” (one-half the prescribed) because of scaleless fish.>>
Tank stats:
150 litres, live plants
pH 7.4
ammonia and nitrites nil
nitrates 5
Thanks!
Claire.
<<Tank stats look quite good, Claire. Be sure to read the directions of any medication carefully and followed them to the letter. Best of luck. Tom>>

Breeding Kribs, aggressive/sick barb   4/26/06
Greetings Staff- FYI - I have a 54 gallon tank with UGF (I'm old school),  AquaClear 300, and a Penguin BioWheel 200 (I might be old school, but I love redundancy). Temp 78, water conditions good - Tap water here in Portland, Oregon is great for our fish - they LOVE  IT!  
<Ah, good.>
General community tank with tetras, loaches, a pair of angelfish, and some white clouds, etc. I vacuum once a week and clean out one of the two hang-on filters once a week (oh yeah, and change 10 -15% per week). It's planted with Anubias, amazons, Bacopa (for the fish to eat), and Cabomba (I LOVE saying that: CA-BOMB-A).  
<Heh!>
1. I have a pair of Pelvivachromis pulcher who were a 'mating pair' when we bought them.  I don't know if they successfully bred at the LFS; but they were clearly pair bonded. After an ich outbreak last fall their pair bond deteriorated. I am sure 16 days in quarantine was not romantic. We think the ich was due to a dip in tank temps one day we had the window next to the tank open and it got chilled; I am now really careful about opening the window when it is not warm enough. The female still displays for the male, but he seems uninterested in her shameless flirting.  We provided several 'condos' for them to select for their boudoir. Would adding another female excite the male?
<Possibly, yes.>
If a new girl was added would we have to remove the other?  Could they just work it out with time?  I am not really looking set up a breeding tank; just to see them restored to their original state.  Sure it would be cool if they raised a few fry; but I am not trying to go nutso or anything.  
<Once the pair is bonded, the "leftover" female would likely have to be removed.>
2. I had a very naughty male rosy barb ( http://www.fishbase.org/Eschmeyer/EschPiscesSummary.cfm?ID=4714 ) who harassed one of his girlfriends into her grave (we had a set of three females and one male).  After she died he became the bully of the tank - taking off one of the rays of an angelfish and scales off of anyone who got too close to him.  We went to our LFS and asked them for a larger female who might help calm him down.  We came home with Brunhilda, named at the LFS because of her size (a hefty 3.5 inches nose to tail!)
<Holy mackinaw!>
and because she was a favorite of the staff.  She, to put it lightly (hah!), is huge.  She definitely seemed to school the male - yes another bad pun (although he still always wears his full mating regalia) and things have been peaceful for several weeks.
<Ah, good.>
Overnight she developed a large (7 mm square) wound on one flank just above the tale - I have some OK pictures of it - it looks larger and scarier in real life.  
<Yeeee-ikes!  I am given to think you didn't quarantine her prior to adding her to the tank??>
It was initially bloody and swollen.  I also discovered that another of the harem had a similar (though much smaller) wound near her anal-genital area - photos also included.  I have set up a QT, out as yet both seem healthy and happy aside from their wounds. Other than keeping water quality as perfect as possible and keeping a weather eye on them, is there anything else I can do?
<I would consider medicating this.... it's pretty significant.  If you cannot remove the injured animals to a quarantine system for treatment, please consider a food medicated with Oxytetracycline rather than medicating your main tank; an online store called "Florida Guppies Plus" (Google that) sells one such product.>
Would adding additional females diffuse his aggression or give him more targets?
<Possibly.... but no guarantee.  He doesn't read the books, y'know.>
Our QT would be a bucket with a small BioWheel, heater, and some shelter.  I do not want to medicate, or traumatize them by netting and QTing them unless necessary.  
<Either risk it, or obtain a medicated flake food for them.>
Could it be that Mr. Rosy Barb (his common name in our house is unprintable)
<HAH!!>
got up his gumption and made a run at these two females
<Possibly, though it is also possible that Brunhilda brought a bacterial infection with her and shared it with the other damaged female.>
that resulted in some rough sex - was it rape??!!?
<Likely not, no worries.>
Should I report his randy behavior to the authorities?  
<CSI Aquarium?>
Photo of Brunhilda's and other female wounds attached and I am also including my photobucket link:
http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d98/leahfranceswade/Brunhildas%20trauma/
<Good, clear images.  Thank you for sharing these.>
(I included one pic of my krib female (I think she's a kinke, she's so pretty).  
<Pretty indeed.>
PS the female rosy barbs have been decimating the Black Beard Algae (Audouinella?) that grows in our tank in the winter (lower sun angle = more direct sunlight on the tank.  They keep it totally in check.
<Excellent!>
Thanks and keep up the good work.  
<And thank you for your kind words.>
And I forgot to say, "Long time reader, first time emailer."
<Glad to hear from you.>
Sincerely, Leah Frances Wade
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Rosy Barbs and Tiger Barbs Oh My!
I am new to fishkeeping and I have questions about the tiger barbs. I have started with 4 tigers to cycle the tank and I discovered that I like them.
<A very nice fish, a little nippy at times, but pretty.>
At the instruction of my dealer I have 3 rosy barbs in my quarantine tank waiting to go in the main tank
<Be still my beating heart! You have a quarantine tank for your freshwater display. God bless you sir! You will surely be rewarded!>
instead of buying 2 or 3 more tigers as most books suggest.
<I would be happy as long as you have three or more.>
He says its because I have only a 29 gallon tank and there won't be enough room for other fish if the schools are too big.
<A fair point.>
He also says that since they are in the same family the Rosies and the tigers will not harm each other.
<I would prefer to put it as they will be able to put up with each other's abuse.>
I am a little skeptical. Is 4 ok for a school of tigers?
<Sure>
Is 3 ok for Rosie's?
<Yes, these are a little less prone to school, at least not as tightly as the Tiger Barbs.>
Is it boring to have just 2 or 3 schools swimming around?
<You will be able to fit more than these seven fish in your tank.>
I don't want the tank to look too "busy". Also, what other fish do you suggest adding for variety? Stephen
<Giant Danios are another of my favorites. Various Gouramis would work, too. -Steven Pro>

Rosy Barbs and Tiger Barbs Oh My! II
Hey Steven, thanks for replying so fast!
<No sweat, you caught me at a good time.>
Do you think fish look better in larger schools?
<I think schooling fish should be kept in schools. Depending on the size of the tank, a large, tight school of fish is impressive to me.>
About the quarantine tank: My dealer is reputable. Their tanks look great and the Rosies looked healthy all 4 times I visited the store in the past month. How long do they need to be in my quarantine tank?
<Two weeks in perfect condition minimum for QT to be effective.>
I see that you find various Gouramis compatible with tigers. Most books say the same, but the stores all say not to do it. Why?
<You would have to ask them.>
I would love to have one. Is it the blue and gold Gouramis (Trichogaster trichopterus) that are tough enough to deal with the barbs?
<These are the most common ones and the ones I use often.>
Thanks! Stephen
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Rosy barb
3 years old,, turned gray,, acts normal should isolate?
<if acquired as an adult, the change may be "old age". Else diet related. Unlikely that QT is necessary, but do so if convenient if and until further symptoms are observed. Also try some color enhancing food pellets. If your diet for the fishes has been dry food only, this is a problem. Do add a variety of frozen fare as well (bloodworms for example... but never brine shrimp... nutritively poor!) Best regards, Anthony>

Barb Sickness
I have a ten gallon tank. I have two rosy barbs, three guppies, three platys, one snail, one Otocinclus, and two African dwarf frogs, two
plants. After a bad start, everything is going well. Three days ago one of my barbs turns up with what looks like a big red zit near the base of his back bone near his tale. No other fish are sick and he seems to be fine eating and all that. Do you have any idea what it is? I think it's probably a parasite. What's your take and what do I treat with? I am pretty much limited to anything from Mardel.
Annie M.
<Could be several things. Probably not parasitic although it could be an anchor worm. Do you see something coming out of the eruption? Anchor worms are more common is pond fish, though. More likely bacterial in nature and a broad spectrum antibiotic is your best course of action. -Steven Pro>

Long-Finned Red Rosie Barbs vs.. Peaceful 29 Gallon Community 
Dear Bob Fenner,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I was delighted when I found your WetWebMedia website yesterday. I found it very informative and very helpful. I thank you! In trying to locate it again today I found that I had best be more careful to have the absolute correct address for future reference (don't leave off the media -- good grief!).
<hehe... how about setting the WWM page as the default homepage in your browser <wink>>
In a nutshell, I have had fresh water tropical (and cold/goldfish) community fish aquariums on and off since I was a kid. I am now in my fourth decade with four kids who have each tried their hand at same. Most recently, we moved our 29 gallon aquarium from one end of our home to the other at a point when it was fishless and only had a few plants. I've restarted it. It is in pretty good shape except that the Ammo-Lock that I put in it (that I was told I probably never needed since it sat there for at least a couple months in only a few inches of previous aquarium water with only plants and no fish) causes any readings to show high ammonia content; 
<you can get an accurate ammonia test reading if you use dry tab reagents instead>
and the ph is bit high; about 7.8. I put some PH Down in there today. We'll see how it reads tomorrow. What I have now are three (3) beautiful Long-Finned Red Rosie Barbs. 
<yes...gorgeous>
I purchased them at Petsmart eight (8) days ago. They seem in very good health. However, two of the three have come to have some shredded fins. One of them I figure to be the champ. He looks great! After doing some more extensive reading after the purchase, I realize that I purchased some fish that are more aggressive than I wanted for this tank. I phoned Petsmart. They said I may return them within 14 days of the purchase. I figure I have six (6) more days to decide whether or not to return these beautiful Barbs and go for some more peaceful fish. My 15-year-old, 10-year-old (the two of my four kids that are still at home), and my 49-year-old (my husband) have expressed that they would like to see Angelfish in our tank. I know these beautiful Barbs won't get along with Angelfish. I also know my ph is way too high for Angelfish. I'm told my ph should be 7.0 for Angelfish. I would like a peaceful, yet interesting aquarium. I think my best bet is to bring down my ph, and return the beautiful, yet too aggressive, Long-Finned Red Rosie Barbs to Petsmart. 
<I hate to see them go too... but, yes... I agree>
I believe what I would eventually like to see in my aquarium would be some Angelfish, Red Sunset Gouramis, Corys, White Long-Finned Tetras (?), maybe a Pleco.. (Rock Fish) (?), more plants, and some Mystery Snails. I'm not sure what else might fit well into this type of tank. I am open to any good suggestions and advice.
<harlequin Rasboras, gold tetras, dwarf ram cichlids...so many choices>
I do have a couple more questions. I wonder if you would know why I actually have a hard time keeping snails alive in my tank. For some reason they never last long. I live in the northern Maryland suburbs of the Washington-Metropolitan area. Could it have anything to do with my water? 
<sure lack of minerals...too much of a given metal/mineral, etc>
I do use dechlorinator, and I do let the water sit for a day or two before putting it in the tank.
<not really necessary. Just dechlorinator is fine>
My last question (for now) pertains to Corys. I love Corys -- any kind of Cory. I lean toward the less expensive, less popular kind. I have always had at least (and usually) one in any tank I've ever kept. I never knew this before, but I am told they like to school. I am told I should have at least three. 
<absolutely>
The problem I have experienced (more than just a couple of times over the years) with Corys is that whenever I added a second Cory to my one, the first one (that had usually been there for months to years) has always died very shortly thereafter (days to weeks). Can you think of any reason why this would happen? 
<a bit odd if there are no other new fish deaths>
Maybe one is okay, two is bad, three is better? I've never tried having more than two Cory's in my tank at a time. I never heard before last week that they liked to school. 
<even three may not be enough if you get too many males. more than three would be nice for a shoal>
Thank you very much for any help you can be. Yours truly, Marianne db
<best regards, Anthony>

Gender of my rosy barbs
I bought 3 rosy barbs and am trying to figure out their gender.  I have looked at different sites and find conflicting information.  So I thought I would ask. Two of my fish have many of the same characteristics, and one is a bit different.  So I think I might have one female and two males. The possible female has fins that have barely any black on them, just a small strip on the top fin.  The other two have quite a bit of black on their fins. The possible female gets chased the most even though it is the biggest. The top fish is the one that might be a female.  The bottom one is a male and my other one looks like him but with almost completely black fins.  Even thought the possible female looks as rosy as the other one in this picture, it usually looks more pale and not as of a bright rosy color as the others in person. They all may just be males, but it would be nice to know either way!
thanks a bunch
Liz
<Hey Liz, from the picture they appear to be the same color,  the male Rosy Barbs have red/rose bodies and the females are
more orange colored.  Hope this helps, Gage>

Rosy Barb Gasping for Air
I have a 44 gallon tank with 4 rosy barbs (2 male, 2 female) 6 Danios, 2 keyhole cichlids, and 3 Otocinclus.  
<Sounds like a fairly balanced tank, not to overstocked.>
In the last couple of days I've noticed one of the barbs constantly gasping and moving its gills which are bright pink inside . . . normal?
<No, that really isn't normal.>
She keeps hiding out at the bottom and isn't eating anything.  All of the other fish seem active and fine.  ph was 7.6. Ammonia and nitrite were 0, but I don't know about the nitrate.
<You can always have your Local Fish store test the water for you, most nicer places do it for free if you really want to know about your Nitrate.  I think that you might have a bit low oxygen level in your water.  Which happens quite frequently during the warmer summer months.  Higher temp means less amount of diffused oxygen in the water.   I would add an air stone and air pump and see if that makes a difference with the fish.  If not, you should start setting up a hospital tank and allow it to cycle so if the fish should get worse you have a separate tank to treat it in.>
Thanks, Julie
<Good luck. -Magnus>

Rosy Barb Aggression
Hello, I learn a lot from your site.  I couldn't find the answer to the following problem I'm having, so I thought I'd send along a question.
I have a 150 gallon pond in my backyard. I live in Southern California, so the water temp tends to stay in the 60s (probably mid to high 50s in the wintertime).  The pond is densely planted--the bottom is covered with Anacharis; water hyacinths cover about 60% of the surface; and watercress grows in the waterfall that feeds the pond.  The pond was built about 10 years ago (by previous homeowners, who left it as a "water feature," without fish or plants).  I have set it up for plants and fish over the last 3 months:  plants have been in for about 2 1/2 months, and fish have been introduced over the last 2 months.  I now have 9 Gambusia (introduced 8 weeks ago), 24 white clouds (introduced 5 weeks ago), and 6 rosy barbs (2 males and 4 females, introduced 2 weeks ago).  The guys at the LFS claim all these species will survive the So. Cal winter outdoors, but we'll see.
Here is my problem.  All was very peaceful in my pond until I added the rosy barbs.  They never pick on the other fish, but the 2 males can't seem to get along.  The pond is large enough that they often stay apart, but whenever they see each other, they end up going at it, and this lasts sometimes for 30 minutes at a stretch.  I have not noticed any injuries on either of them (although it is difficult to get an up-close view), and it also seems that neither of them clearly has the upper hand.  When they fight, they spin around in circles, with one going after the side of the other one, and they often end up flapping around sideways at the height of the conflict.  The female rosy barbs often come out to watch the proceedings and sometimes even swim right next to or between them.  This doesn't seem to have any effect on the males.  
Is this normal competition between male rosy barbs?  I didn't realize they would be so aggressive towards each other in a school of 6.  If this isn't normal, is there something I can do to make them settle down?  I'm worried that one (or both) of them is going to end up dead or maimed.  For their part, the females are very peaceful, as are the white clouds and Gambusia.
My pond test strips register no ammonia, no nitrites, and no nitrates.  The water is crystal clear.  At present, all the fish seem alert and healthy, including the male Rosies.
Thanks very much for your advice, Darius
<<Dear Darius; It sounds perfectly normal to me, good ole fashioned males fighting for females. I would not worry much about it. Even though it is a "school of six"  there are not six males, and the two males will surely fight for the four females. And with females present, the males have something to fight over. For a second, I entertained the thought of telling you to add more males, but then I had a thought... in a normal aquarium, the addition of other males would spread the aggression, but in a large pond it may not help at all, since the fish have so much room, they may only run into each other once in a while, with the ensuing half-hour skirmishes as each male runs into each male. If the aggression truly bothers you, you could leave the males, and remove all the females. (Good luck catching them!) However, if it was MY pond, I would simply leave things the way they are, chances are you may end up with rosy barb fry :) Let nature take its course. -Gwen>>

Rosy Barbs mistakenly mixed with another species?
I have a 29 gallon tank with (among others species) 5 Rosy Barbs (1 male and 4 females).  One of the females is considerably smaller than the others (she is also younger, so at first this did not bother me) and she is a different shape.  Rosy Barbs are more or less symmetrical from nose to tail; she is shaped like a Rosy in her top half, but nearly flat along her bottom half (she's almost shaped more like my clown loaches, although much smaller!)
<Interesting>
I became alarmed when, in addition to being smaller, I noticed that she was behaving oddly.  She swims listlessly, and then will suddenly perform a series of aerobatic maneuvers in just a small area of the tank. (upside down, sideways, back and forth, loop-de-loops, etc.)
After a few minutes, she goes back to being listless.  
She doesn't race to the top of the tank to eat like the other Barbs do either.
I looked online, wondering if she was another species accidentally mixed in with Rosies, and her behavior was as a result of being a schooling fish with no "friends", and found this photo:
http://www.jjphoto.dk/fish_archive/aquarium/puntius_bimaculatus.htm
which is similar, but not quite identical to my fish.
<Okay... another Puntius species>
When I researched this fish, I found they are native to Sri Lanka, and not much else.  But I thought Rosy Barbs were native to Indonesia, which makes my accidental theory not very likely.
<Mmm, likely both or at least the Rosies were cultured... so not wild-collected in the country of their origin>
So my question is, is it possible that she is a different species, and if so, any theories on which one?  And, is she sick, lonely, or simply nutty, (or perfectly normal for her species), and how do I deal with it?
Thanks,
Paul
PS: Wonderful website!!
<Thank you Paul. Yes to being (likely) a "contaminant"... an accidentally mixed in species... not able to say of course, which species... but likely another minnow/barb... can/will live with the others very likely. You can trade in, look for others of its kind, or keep and enjoy. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rosy Barbs mistakenly mixed with another species?
Thanks.
About the behavior, (assuming she is a Puntius species of Barb) is that likely a sign of illness?  Or possibly normal?
<Possibly normal, but if illness, not contagious, but genetic, developmental in nature>
"She swims listlessly, and then will suddenly perform a series of aerobatic maneuvers in just a small area of the tank. (upside down, sideways, back and forth, loop-de-loops, etc.)
After a few minutes, she goes back to being listless.  
She doesn't race to the top of the tank to eat like the other Barbs do either."
Thanks again,
Paul Lord
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>






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