Rosy Barb Aggression
Hello, I learn a lot from your site.  I couldn't find the answer to the following problem I'm having, so I thought I'd send along a question.
I have a 150 gallon pond in my backyard. I live in Southern California, so the water temp tends to stay in the 60s (probably mid to high 50s in the wintertime).  The pond is densely planted--the bottom is covered with anacharis; water hyacinths cover about 60% of the surface; and watercress grows in the waterfall that feeds the pond.  The pond was built about 10 years ago (by previous homeowners, who left it as a "water feature," without fish or plants).  I have set it up for plants and fish over the last 3 months:  plants have been in for about 2 1/2 months, and fish have been introduced over the last 2 months.  I now have 9 Gambusia (introduced 8 weeks ago), 24 white clouds (introduced 5 weeks ago), and 6 rosy barbs (2 males and 4 females, introduced 2 weeks ago).  The guys at the LFS claim all these species will survive the So. Cal winter outdoors, but we'll see.
Here is my problem.  All was very peaceful in my pond until I added the rosy barbs.  They never pick on the other fish, but the 2 males can't seem to get along.  The pond is large enough that they often stay apart, but whenever they see each other, they end up going at it, and this lasts sometimes for 30 minutes at a stretch.  I have not noticed any injuries on either of them (although it is difficult to get an up-close view), and it also seems that neither of them clearly has the upper hand.  When they fight, they spin around in circles, with one going after the side of the other one, and they often end up flapping around sideways at the height of the conflict.  The female rosy barbs often come out to watch the proceedings and sometimes even swim right next to or between them.  This doesn't seem to have any effect on the males.  
Is this normal competition between male rosy barbs?  I didn't realize they would be so aggressive towards each other in a school of 6.  If this isn't normal, is there something I can do to make them settle down?  I'm worried that one (or both) of them is going to end up dead or maimed.  For their part, the females are very peaceful, as are the white clouds and Gambusia.
My pond test strips register no ammonia, no nitrites, and no nitrates.  The water is crystal clear.  At present, all the fish seem alert and healthy, including the male Rosies.
Thanks very much for your advice, Darius
<<Dear Darius; It sounds perfectly normal to me, good ole fashioned males fighting for females. I would not worry much about it. Even though it is a "school of six"  there are not six males, and the two males will surely fight for the four females. And with females present, the males have something to fight over. For a second, I entertained the thought of telling you to add more males, but then I had a thought... in a normal aquarium, the addition of other males would spread the aggression, but in a large pond it may not help at all, since the fish have so much room, they may only run into each other once in a while, with the ensuing half-hour skirmishes as each male runs into each male. If the aggression truly bothers you, you could leave the males, and remove all the females. (Good luck catching them!) However, if it was MY pond, I would simply leave things the way they are, chances are you may end up with rosy barb fry :) Let nature take its course. -Gwen>>

Barbs, something bunk with their environment
Hello, wanted to now could you tell me what this is my barbs keep dying they have there mouths stuck open no function?  then they get some sort of fungus its been going on for about two months started treating with MelaFix  no results then done everything to clean that up waited then did ick meds.  still sick   repeated clean up then waited then hit them hard with paragon by AquaTropics  for wide spectrum anti-parasitic and anti-bacterial control.. still have new case of  the mouth open stuck??????   i really don't now what else to do but dispose of these two so others wont get sick??? what  could i do.   thanks
< Barbs need clean well aerated water. Check your water for ammonia and nitrites, both should be zero. Nitrates should be below 25 ppm. If you are convinced that it is not bacterial or protozoans then you could try and treat for gill flukes with fluke tabs or clout.-chuck>
Kat..

High pH, Fighting Danios
Hi guys. You have the greatest website! I got my first tank two weeks ago. It is a ten gallon freshwater community tank, several plastic plants, 50 watts heater, two thermometers one internal and one external, one fake rock with 3 holes on it, one undergravel filter, two inch deep gravel strata (rounded and more or less pea sized), one aqua-tech outside power filter, one small sponge filter. The pH of our tap water is about 7.4 to 7.6. I added water conditioner (Tetra Aqua Safe), Stress Zyme, five teaspoons of salt for freshwater aquarium. At the beginning the water got a little cloudy. I waited one week and added 3 Zebra Danios Next day I added one ounce of Bio-Spira freshwater bacteria from Marineland. The water became clear again within 24 hours. The Danios (one small male, one small female and a larger older individual whose gender is a mystery to me) were fine. They were exploring and racing around. Then the two smaller Danios began to dance in circles at the bottom of the aquarium. The older individual took possession of the upper and middle part of the aquarium and began to chase and bump-fight the small male while the small female was hidden in the plants. Within 48 hours the small male stopped racing and eating and died. I examined the body. There were no signs of disease or injury. The older individual still chases the small female every time they meet. The small female is fine but she is confined to a corner of the aquarium that is covered in plants most of the time. She ventures out often, but she goes back when the larger Danio chases her. When I feed the fish, I feed them very little food, twice or once a day. I try to feed them the minimum amount of food possible. I underfeed them because they are too busy fighting each other to eat all of it. Although the Danios come immediately to the food, they promptly begging to fight and some flakes end up sinking and the fish remain hungry. I worry about the food sinking. My last pH reading is in the range of 7.6 to 8. My ammonia reading is 0. My nitrite reading is 0.2. I have several questions:
What could have happened to the small male Zebra Danio?
<<Aggression, high ammonia, nitrites. What did your ammonia test at last week? Must have been some, there has to be ammonia for it to be converted into nitrite. Do you have nitrates yet? You should be testing this tank everyday.>>
What is it with the large Zebra Danio (I was told they are peaceful fish)?
<<They are not. And a toxic tank will not make them any nicer, either...>>
Could the small female Zebra Danio be hurt by constant harassment?
<<Certainly>>
Is it a good idea to add other fish to the tank?
<<No.>>
If so is this list a good list: one male Beta, two more Zebra Danios, two female Guppies and two small Cory Cats? Are this fish too many (taking into account all my filters and that I am willing to do a 25% water change weekly and a mayor water change monthly)? Would they take my pH as it is? How can I modify this list to avoid disaster?
<<Do NOT add any fish now. Your tank is still cycling. Hence the high pH, etc. And certainly don't add all of these at one time! And definitely avoid putting guppies and a Betta into a tank with Danios. Disaster awaits if you do.>>
Until now I have resisted the impulse of applying pH-lowering product to my tank but What can I do with my pH (7.6 to 8.0)? Should I make a 25% water change now (taking into account that the food keeps sinking because of the fighting of my Danios)?
<<As I said, your pH is high because the tank is CYCLING. It will stabilize in a month or so. Have PATIENCE, please. Do not mess with your pH, you will not be helping your fish if you do. The pH will end up all over the place, and your fish will end up dead from a combination of pH shock, nitrite poisoning, and stress..>>
Finally, If Bio-Spira is so amazing, why are some dealers against it? Thank you for your help.
<<I personally like Bio-Spira, it's an excellent product when it's being used properly. However, results will differ from tank to tank. Dealers simply don't like it when people with no experience try to cycle with it and end up with dead fish, as in your case. Please do some reading, buy yourself some ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate test kits, and be PATIENT. Test your water regularly, do waterchanges when readings become high, and do NOT add fish until the tank has NO ammonia and NO nitrites left. Keep two small fish in the tank during cycling. TWO! not more! Keeping a written record of your test results will help. :) -Gwen>>

Pregnant Tiger Barb
I just bought 7 Tiger Barbs it looks as if one of them is pregnant.  I have a 10 gallon tank and do not want a bunch of baby Tiger Barbs.  If I do nothing will the baby's survive? or should I remove the pregnant one? any advice? Thanks, Maria
<<Dear Maria; if you do nothing, and the tiger barbs mate, chances are that the parents will eat the eggs and whatever fry happen to hatch. If you want to keep the fertilized eggs, you can remove them with a siphon hose to their own tank, and when they hatch, feed them newly hatched baby brine shrimp. IF the tiger barb in question is simply fat, and her scales start to stick out like a pinecone, then she is sick with an internal bacterial infection and will require medication or euthanasia. Please test your water for ammonia (zero), nitrites (zero) and nitrates (try to keep around 20-40ppm with weekly water changes). -Gwen>> 

Feeding Barbs the Wee fins o' Guppies -II
>Thanks for the response. I have gotten another 29 gallon and removed all but the swordtail, and guppies, and I put in 3 more female guppies, 2 more female swordfish, 2 female platy's, and some ghost shrimp, and some real plants. I have 3 guppy fry as of this morning.
>>Hi, you're welcome. So, as I understand it, you've separated all the livebearers from the barbs, et al.
>I knew they looked pregnant so I already had the breeder net. My other tank has the sharks, tetra's, and barbs.
>>Great, but I really MUST reiterate, the red-tail sharks are going to get *very* large, and when I say they're suitable for tanks with cichlids like Jack Dempseys, it means that they are quite aggressive and only fish that have similar propensities will be able to withstand their attention. You'll need to watch them closely, and when fish go missing, look to the red-tails first. The rainbow sharks can go into the tank with the livebearers, as they won't grow as large and are nowhere nearly as aggressive.
>I didn't buy the injected tetra, they were given to me by my brother.
>>Ah, fish gifting.
>But thanks for telling me , I won't be buying anymore of them, as I agree it is cruel.
>>A LOT of people have no idea how these fish come to be, and think that they maybe are painted with dye or similar. Can you imagine making your *living* taking tiny hypodermic needles and injecting fish with gaudy colors? Such is the way of things in poor countries.
>My husband hates how much attention I'm giving the fish, as I check online every day for information on my fish, plants, or general tank tips. He says I'm like a child playing with a Barbie house, but I just want my tank to be a happy little community, I watch my fish, and when I found that I have a shy platy. I rearranged the tank to give her a place to hide, I also put in plants, and a cave area for my ghost shrimp. There is also a large corner structure that I purchased, and when I couldn't find my fish I decided to turn it on it's side. This really opened up the top of my tank, and with the light from the back opening, I can still see my fish. My swords, platy's, and guppies, all like the cave this way, and even the ghost shrimp have burrowed under part of it too.
>>Oh yes, as a matter of fact, most fish will be happier and behave much more naturally, as well as spending *more* time out in the open if the tank is about 2/3 planted area, with some nice, thick plantings. Rocks and caves, driftwood (purchased from an aquarium shop is best) all adds to their sense of security. Tell your hubby that you're being a "conscientious aquarist" and that your responsibility to animals you take under your care is the same as if they were your children. (This is how I was raised.) They didn't ask to be placed in these glass boxes in people's houses, and you really *do* learn quite a bit engaging in this hobby. Marina 

Feeding Barbs the Wee fins o' Guppies -III 
>Thanks for the advice, after talking to my husband and daughter we are going to thin the herd. 
>>I think you'll be happier with the results. 
>I am giving up 7 guppies, both platies, and the tetras, and sharks, and will just get a few rainbow sharks as they are my husbands favorite to begin with. 
>>I would put in no more than two in a 29 gallon tank. 
>We gave one to my brother when we had the first guppy snacking session. but he got some bad advice and bought a red tailed after. thanks very much, and hopefully I'll have good news to share in the future. I also would like to know how long it will take the fry to grow big enough to be let loose? 
>>That depends on a few things, but when they're about a half inch long is when it *should* be safe. However, I would have some very thickly planted areas, going from the bottom to the top so they can feed in all parts of the water column. Be SURE to remove the females as soon as you have them identified or you'll have more guppies than you'll know what to do with! Same goes for the other livebearers, too. Best of luck and DO enjoy! Marina

Tiger barb
I have a tiger barb that wont live with any other tankmates. I had 4 in a 15 gallon and he ate or killed the others.....I tried to put some more in but he killed them too. Also now he hides all day and all night unless I feed him pls help me find a way to make him not so scared and frightened or having killing urges....thanks Sean
<<Dear Sean. How often do you do water changes? How long has this tank been running with fish in it? Is it cycling? You need to keep tiger barbs in groups of 4 to 6 fish. You should take a sample of your tank water to your Local Fish Store, and have them test it for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. These are toxins that can kill your fish in a new tank. Please have your water tested, and then email me the results. -Gwen
PS please try to type more legibly on your next email. I had a hard time understanding you this time. Thanks :) >>

Tiger Barb
>I have a tiger barb that wont live with any other tankmates. I had 4 in a 15 gallon and he ate or killed the others.....I tried to put some more in
>but he killed them too. Also now he hides all day and all night unless I feed him pls help me find a way to make him not so scared and frightened or
>having killing urges....thanks Sean
><<Dear Sean. How often do you do water changes? How long has this tank been running with fish in it? Is it cycling? You need to keep tiger barbs in
>groups of 4 to 6 fish. You should take a sample of your tank water to your Local Fish Store, and have them test it for ammonia, nitrites, and
>nitrates. These are toxins that can kill your fish in a new tank. Please have your water tested, and then email me the results. -Gwen
>PS please try to type more legibly on your next email. I had a hard time understanding you this time. Thanks :) >>
Re: Tiger Barb I took it to PetCo and they said every thing was stable in it my nitrates and nitrites are at 0. (sorry about the bad typing.) Anyways, the tank is cycling and I did have him with 3 other tiger barbs but as I said in the other email he killed them or ate them.....I talked to the guy who worked at PetCo and he said try to get some more tiger barbs that are bigger than him. I didn't really trust him....well I would like to now how to get rid of this behavior of hiding and attacking tankmates...thank you, Sean
<<Hello again, you are welcome :) I am very happy you got your water tested. I do agree with the Petco guy, you should add more tiger barbs, larger than the one you have left. They need to be kept in groups. One thing you can do is ask your pet store guy if they will take back your "killer" tiger barb. Tell them you want to buy  4 or 5, but you don't want the one you have now. Perhaps they will let you exchange him when you buy the new ones. Some stores will do this, some won't, but you won't know unless you ask them.
Good luck :) -Gwen

Lamb chop Rasbora - a Harlequin Look-Alike
Hello WWM Team,
<Hi Craig, Sabrina here, today>
Hope you can help me. I recently bought fish labeled Harlequin Rasbora. The problem is, I know what a Harlequin looks like and the reason I bought these fish was they are a Rasbora I have not seen before. I am hoping you can identify them for me.
<Will gladly try!>
They have the same colouring as the Harlequin with some changes. The blue triangle is evident as in the Harlequin, however, the same blue is also displayed in a very thin line along the anal area. The iridescent orange is a definite mark confined to the edge of the triangle and then extending past the triangle towards the gill in a definite half-circular mark. The remainder of the body colour is golden  .The body is far more slender than the Harlequin and the fins are all translucent, unlike the Harlequin which are reddish/orange. The eyes are also golden and not orange...any ideas?  Craig
<This sounds unmistakably like the "Lamb chop" Rasbora, Trigonostigma espei.  The "Harlequin" Rasbora, Trigonostigma heteromorpha, as you've mentioned, is quite a bit more common in the US, but the lamb chops do show up a lot.  T. espei will only grow to about half the size of T. heteromorpha, and is a touch more sensitive as well.  More info from fishbase on the harlequin:  http://filaman.uni-kiel.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?genusname=Trigonostigma&speciesname=heteromorpha  and on the lamb chop:  http://filaman.uni-kiel.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?genusname=Trigonostigma&speciesname=espei .  Be sure to make use of all the links throughout those pages if you wish to learn more detail on the fish, there is a lot of info there!  Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Temporary Fish Housing (12/23/2003)
Hi-ya thanks for any help you can give me. I am wanting to move my community tank upstairs as a larger tank has been bought for the living room to host Discus. The tank currently running is a 35 gallon community tank. With around 15 fish, biggest of which are silver sharks ( a pair ) around 3-4 inch in length. <Are these Bala "Sharks" (Balantiocheilos melanopterus) or Hemiodus? Either of these will get bigger and need a bigger home. Depending on the projected adult size of your 15 fish, your tank may be overstocked.> The other tank is a 75 gallon which is not set-up as yet. It will have an Eheim 2026 pro II for filtration. I am wanting to move the fish into this larger tank temporarily. So I have a couple of weeks to clean out and replace various parts of the old tank. Just  wondering how quickly I can move the fish into this new tank without risking their health. I will start with just a couple of the more hardy fish like the mollies and the green tiger barbs. The tank is quite large for the fish going into it. <not really> How long should I leave the tank before any fish go in? assuming its free from chlorine. <Seed it with water & filter material from the 35, it will cycle very quickly and you should be able to start after just a few days transferring a few fish every few days. And how quickly should I add the rest? <No clear-cut formula here. Maybe 1/4 of the fish every 3-4 days. If you can get some Bio-Spira (check Marineland's website for info), you can cycle the tank instantly.> I will then of course have to slowly move them back to the original. <Consider Bio-Spira> Would greatly appreciate any tips or hints you could give me, in this stressful time for my little friends!! <Your "sharks" would be better off in a 55G tank than a 35--they need the swimming room of a 48" long tank. Good luck, Steve Allen>

FAMA article
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Tim-Uwe>
my name is Tim-Uwe Jandeck, I read your article "The Minnows Called Barbs, Danios & Rasboras" on the wetwebmedia site with pleasure. I am especially interested in the genetics of tiger barbs and found a very interesting reference to the following publication in the article:
Norton, Joanne. 1994. Tiger barb genetics. FAMA 9/94.
I tried to order/find/organize this article in many different ways but it seems to be nearly impossible for me to get it (I am from Germany (Berlin) and even our university libraries don't collect the FAMA Journal anymore). So my question is if you could copy/scan me the respective pages of this 9/94 Journal. I can pay you by MasterCard or PayPal. I think that it would be a great help for my further studies if I could get this article,
sincerely yours,
Tim-Uwe Jandeck.
<I do have the issue, and will ask Sue Steele of FAMA if she minds my sending it along, or better, if they will send/sell you an original copy. Bob Fenner>

GloFish Question
Bob,
<Yep>
Wondering if we can get your opinion on the GloFish fluorescent zebra Danios?  They look amazing, esp. for freshwater (n fact, even better than some marine species).  Could you comment?  If you haven't heard of them yet, they are at www.glofish.com and http://www.reuters.co.uk/newsArticle.jhtml?type=scienceNews&storyID=3873977§ion=news has a good article.
Thanx!
Sandi
<Have seen these transgenics... a whole bunch at last times Aquarama in Singapore... a neat scientific application... but para mi, "no sale"... too pricey. Bob Fenner>

Re: GloFish Question
Bob,
Thanks so much for your time.  I think I'll go with the GloFish even at the price.  They look to cool to pass up.
Sandi
<They are very beautiful, and a very interesting "story" to relate re their "genetic clip-on" technology. Bob Fenner>

Sick tiger barbs?
Hi. First thanks so much for this website. I have just started to taking care of some tiger barbs and your site has helped ease much of my worries.
<Great to hear, thank you for the kind words!>
My two 20 gallon tanks have just finished cycling (one took a full month while the other took two weeks) and thankfully, I did not lose any of the barbs. (7 and 6 barbs on each tank, I only found out about the odd number tip last week.)  This past week however, I noticed that in my new tank, two of the tiger barbs looked like their black markings are slightly green. I noticed this in some of the tiger barbs on my first tank as well but now, these greenish stuff are gone without any treatment. In one of the posts here, one of you said that it may be Costia (Ichthyobodo).
<Costia/Ichthyobodo/Chilodonella/other 'skin slime disease' causatives really don't fit what you're describing.  That would appear more gray and be visible all over the sides of the fish, not restricted to only where the black is, and it would appear as though the skin were sloughing off.  It sounds to me like normal coloration for tiger barbs, truly.  There is even a green morph of the tiger barb, in which the black bands run together and are quite green instead of black.  I do not believe this is anything for you to worry about.>
Because of what happened to the tiger barbs in the first tank, I am thinking of waiting and see if it will disappear especially since the water conditions are much better now, but I am concerned that they might not be feeling too well. I am not sure if it is normal behaviour for two fishes to rub together (looks more like jostling for a ball, or trying to squeeze into a tight door but without the door).
<Hmm, this is probably just dominance struggles, trying to establish their pecking order.>
My first thought was that one of the fish was feeling itchy, and second thought was one of them (actually, Prince, the most playful one in the 2nd tank) was just trying to play with Spot (one of the "sick" fish) but Spot didn't want to.
<This probably isn't a concern, just keep an eye on them, and watch for any other issues.>
What do you think I should do? I am afraid of treating Spot and his/her other friend needlessly and subjecting them to stress again.
<Agreed.  I would not do anything until you see strong evidence convincing you of a particular illness.  All sounds well so far, just keep observing and enjoying your fish.>
I am thinking of getting a hospital tank but I can't seem to find info on what size is ok to use. Due to space constraints, I am thinking of getting the smallest one without being stingy on the comfort of the fish.
<Just about anything can be used in a pinch, so long as it is inert and watertight.  If you can swing space for a 10g, great, go for it.>
Another...How do you check if the fish are bloated because of overfeeding or if they are sick? I still haven't figured out how much to feed them that I am afraid I may be starving them (I feed them 3x, they seem to eat more though if I give them bloodworms so I am not sure if I am feeding them enough of the pellets).
<Oh my.... feeding them three times *daily*?  Well, if they're fat, consider that the reason.  Cut back to once daily.  While you're getting them back down to 'normal' sizes, it would be fine to skip a day here and there.>
Lastly, any recommendation on what materials I should be reading? I want to buy some more books but since they can be expensive (and some are not value for money) I'd like to check first before I buy. The aquarium books in the library are checked-out!
<Well, a couple of good beginners' books are "Setting Up a Freshwater Aquarium" by Gregory Skomal and "The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums" by David E. Boruchowitz.  In the Boruchowitz book, the only thing that I wholeheartedly disagree with are his stocking suggestions in the back of the book; I really, REALLY disagree with some of his suggestions (such as keeping an Oscar in a 29g tank).  Beyond that, these are both decent books.  If you're up for a challenge, you might consider "Tropical Fishlopedia" by Mary Bailey and Peter Burgess; an excellent book, but I don't usually recommend this to children or beginners, it's really quite a lot of info to bombard oneself with when just starting out.>
Thanks so much and sorry for the long email.
<No apologies necessary, this is why we're here.  Wishing you and your barbs well,  -Sabrina.>
Jade

Danio deaths
Hi Sabrina!
<Hi again, Tom, hope the algae battle is going well!>
It's me again.  Today I discovered that I had three deceased danios!  I've also noticed that the rest of the fish seem to be breathing awfully heavily.  I am worried!  
<Understandably so.>
My NO2 = 0.3 (maybe a tad higher),
<Eek, that's not a good thing; nitrite is toxic to fish, can burn gills/skin, generally not fun.  Some water changes will help get this down to zero.>
my NO3 = 2.5 ppm,
my NH4 = 0,
my KH = 5,
my pH = 7.0
my O2 = 12.  
Upon closer examination, I noticed the gills on the Danios were red.  I'm clueless as to what's going on.  
<I'm assuming that the nitrite is (at least partly) to blame.  Though, danios (if I recall rightly, yours are zebra danios?) are very sturdy fish.  Are any of your other fish having trouble?  Have you added anything to/stopped adding anything that you usually use to the water?  Any possibilities of any toxins getting into the system (cleaning stuff, anything un-fish-ish)?  Or possibly, are any other fish harassing the danios?>  
Help!  Thanks!  Tom Lenzmeier
<Hmm, hope some of this helps find a direction for you to look.  -Sabrina>

Danio Deaths Deux
Hi Sabrina,
<Hello, Tom>
It turned out to be a case of CO2 poisoning.  I had my Carbo-Plus system turned up too high.  When I turned it down to the medium setting, things improved considerably.  
<Good to hear.>
I did do water changes.  Isn't that generally the first response to any crisis?  When in doubt, get the old water out!  
<Yes, absolutely!  I wish more people would understand that.  Water changes are our friends ;) >
Thanks again.  Tom Lenzmeier
<No prob.  -Sabrina>

What it IS! Goldfin tinfoil barb, that is.
>Hi it's Paul again,
>>Hello Paul.
>Thanks for your advice.  I looked into fishbase.org & established that my fish is in fact a Goldfin tinfoil barb (Poropuntius
malcolmi) & grows to 50cm from same family order & has similar habits.  This problem has bugged me for quite a while so many thanks again for sending me in the right direction.
Best regards P Mitchell.
>>Very glad I could be of help, Paul.  May you never again be so bugged.  ;)  Marina

I need help fast for my zebra danio
I'm not really sure what the problem is.
<Sabrina here, to try and help>
He or she, I can't tell, has just over the past few days shown any of the listed symptoms. swollen belly, hunchback tail, head pointed upward, won't eat, but he swims normal hangs out at the top with the rest of the zebras.
<Hmm, this isn't a lot to go off.... Can you give us some more specs about your tank?  How big is the tank?  What other fish are in with the danio?  Do you test your water for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate?  If so, can you let us know the values?  What you describe could be a number of things, but what sticks out most to me is the swollen belly - are his scales sticking out, pinecone fashion?  I'm afraid you *might* be dealing with dropsy, which is extremely difficult to cure at best, but perhaps there are other possibilities, too.  Let us know more about your tank, and we'll be more able to help you figure out what's wrong.>
Thank you for your time.
<No problem - I wish you the best.>

Is it a tinfoil or what?
>Hi,
>>Hello, Marina available for a short time today.
>I possess what I believed to be a tinfoil, however I did at one point looked after two Tinfoils in same tank.  The problem is the two Tinfoils are Tinfoils but my one has larger scales more streamlined body but has same colouring.  Is there a variant or is it an uncommon type of barb.  
>>Difficult to say, as there are many similar barbs available in the trade.  I would venture a guess that this is actually a different species, and it's quite difficult to determine further without a picture what species it is (the problem with common names, eh?).
>It was bought as a tinfoil but I'm unsure of its id.  Also I have read that Tinfoils are best kept in groups as my one is on its own & seems to be quite happy.  Is that ok?
>>Generally true, but keeping fish is as much art as science, and if yours are happy then don't rock the boat, is my philosophy.  You can try looking at http://www.fishbase.org (though I've only used this site for saltwater specification), or use the Google bar at the bottom of the homepage for our site--MANY pictures are available, and you might find the animal you actually possess.  Best of luck, Marina

Tinfoil barb
Hi,
    I possess what I believed to be a tinfoil however I did at one point looked after two Tinfoils in same tank. The problem is the two Tinfoils are Tinfoils but my one has larger scales more streamlined body but has same colouring. Is there a variant or is it an uncommon type of barb. It was bought as a tinfoil but I'm unsure of its id. Also I have read that Tinfoils are best kept in groups as my one is on its own & seems to be quite happy. Is that ok? Many thanks P Mitchell
<I am sure there are some variations from fish to fish, but the should look pretty similar, search for tinfoil barb on fishbase.org for a positive ID.  Depending on your tank size, and assuming it is a tinfoil barb, I would go with at least 3.  Best Regards, Gage>

Tiger barbs
I bought 5 tiger barbs in one shot about 2 months ago.  One now seems larger in the belly than the others.  I read that they are not easy to breed but should I isolate it in a breeder net to see what happens. <You could> If you actually look at the tank for a while you will see the noticeable difference.<oh>  It is still as active as the others so I don't think it is a worm or illness.<yea, it could be just a fat fish. and it also could be pregnant. I doubt that it would do any harm if you setup a breeding net inside the aquarium and placed the fish in it for a while>  What do you guys suggest.  I will be off this Thurs. to Sunday so will be able to monitor the fish and tank more.....Any Suggestions?<good luck, IanB>

Tiger barbs acting oddly (06/21/03)
<Hi! Ananda here today....>
I have a ten gallon tank with Tiger Barbs (2 male?), Black Mollie (I think a balloon, 1 female), Pineapple Swordtail (2 female), Cory (copper?1), Frog(1), a fry net hanging off the side with two baby mollies, and a few plastic plants.
<Ouch! Your tank is quite overcrowded....I would suggest a substantially larger tank. Both the tiger barbs and the Corydoras fish are happier in larger groups.>
I have two questions, first, the barbs occasionally sit nose down in the tank, is that normal?
<Nope.>
The smaller of the two has recently gotten into the habit of doing that more often, I'm worried that it may be sick?
<Check your water quality: ammonia, nitrites, nitrates... if you have *any* ammonia or nitrites, do water changes to get the levels down. The fish can take some nitrates, but you should try to keep those levels under 40.>
My second question is just recently one of my swordtails turned belly up on my and i was thinking of replacing her with a male, but i don't know if i should do to the barb nasty fin
nipping.
<Nope! You need another tank, first. One for the barbs, one for the fish with fancy fins.>
Let me know what you think, any help would be appreciated!
Thank you
Dave
<You're welcome. --Ananda>

Aggressive little barbs
This is driving me crazy trying to find why my male black ruby's mainly 2 of them chase each other from head to tail in a complete circle for hours at a time nipping at each others fins but only after they have gotten darker in color. please can you tell me the reason for this i only have 3 females in tank to 6 males plus 2 tiger barbs <Stock and maintain them in small, odd-numbered schools; 3, 5, 7... this non-even arrangement tends to reduce aggression between the barbs and their tank mates. These fish are fin nippers and tend to chase each other around. Do read this page on Barbs and the FAQ's to go along with it 
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BarbsDaniosRasborasArt.htm,
good luck with the barbs, IanB>
Arnold

Nervous Tinfoils
Hi there,
I've searched your site but can't find any answers to my problem. I hope you can help.
<I’ll definitely try>
I have four tinfoil barbs (currently about 7 cm long) in a 350 litre tank. The only other fish are three platys and two small Plecos. My problem is that the Tinfoils are very nervous. When I walk by the tank they scatter to the back corners and appear very disturbed. Even when watched from a distance the hug the gravel and are ready to run away. They are damaging themselves, (loosing scales etc) banging into rocks and the tank sides.
However, when I feed them they will happily eat from my fingers. When I get this opportunity to look at them they appear generally healthy.
I have tested the water and ammonia, nitrite and nitrates are all OK. There is free swimming space in the middle of the tank, but either end has plenty of rocks and plants for cover. Water temperature is 24c. Filtration is a large Eheim external power filter
I have had them about 8 weeks and thought that it would wear off as they got used to their new environment. This hasn't happened.
Have you any idea what might cause this, or what possible solutions there may be?
If you need any more information to aid diagnosis then please let me know.
Thanks in advance. Steve
<Have there been any changes in the environment that may have caused this? Sometimes something as simple as the addition of a new plant or changing the placement of the return flow from the filter can cause this behavior. Since these are relatively new fish I’m assuming this isn’t the case but it’s something to consider. If it were me, I would give them a while longer to settle in and see if they calm down, they may not though, some fish are just this way. You may have to remove some of the rocks and such that they are damaging themselves on. Also, make sure your Plecos aren’t picking on them. This does happen once in a great while and would cause the nervousness. Sorry I can’t provide more help. Ronni>

Pregnant barb
I am adding my address for a response.  t.k.lewis****.   I have what I believe to be a pair of gold finned barbs, and it appears that one is pregnant.  Now I want to try to let them lay the eggs and hatch out, but do I leave them in with the eggs?  I am going to put a divider in the 20 gallon tank so no one else will eat the eggs or hopefully babies, but will the parents? And this may seem like a silly question will a female barb produce eggs without a male in the tank with her? Thank you and hope to hear from you soon. Theresa
<There’s a good article on breeding gold barbs at http://www.aquariacentral.com/articles/goldbarb.shtml and it should answer all of your questions. Ronni>

Re: Sick Zebra Danios
HUGE THANK YOU RONNI! for your time, knowledge and caring.  Marty
<You’re very welcome Marty! Glad I was able to help! Ronni>

Tiger Barb Question
Hi.  Been checking out your site since we started keeping tropical fish.  Very informative!!
<Thank you!>
My question; I've had a couple tiger barbs for a couple of months.  It almost looks like there is a very, very light film on them at times. The black bands don't seem as "black" as they used to.  When I looked at them with a flashlight, I could see a green color on the scales in the black bands.  I don't know if that is the normal color or not.
<This sounds as if it may be Costia (Ichthyobodo), Please see http://www/wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfshparasites.htm for more info on the disease and for treatment.>
The tank they are in is just about done cycling. They seem to be doing very well otherwise.  Eating, chasing, etc.
<This is very good.>
Is this a fungus or disease?  Or have I just been staring at the fish too long?!?
<Most likely a parasitic disease>
Appreciate your help!! Jan Emerson
<You're welcome! Ronni>

Re: Tiger Barb Question
Thanks for the quick reply!
<You’re welcome>
Another question I have is regarding using Aquarium Salt. Some say do & some say don't.  Is this something that might help the barbs?  I do have some salt and am planning a partial water change today or tomorrow.  Should I put some in today and do the change tomorrow?  I have a 20 gal. tank with 4 tiger barbs, 2 black neons, 2 Gouramis, 1 Chinese algae eater and a
Danio (?).
<With the other fish you have in there I wouldn’t recommend adding salt. Just stick with the way you have it now and do your water change as planned.>
There is way too much info on the internet, and it gets very confusing.
<Yep, it really can. The internet is a wonderful thing but overwhelming at times too!>
Thanks again for your help!! Jan
<You're welcome! Ronni>

Cherry Barb
Dear Mr. Robert Fenner,
<You got Ronni today.>
I am writing to ask your advice.
I have a 3ft community fish tank with
Zebra Danios
Lemon Tetras
Black Neons
Neon Tetras
Pearl Gouramis
Platys
Silver Tips
I have seen some Cherry Barbs in the shop, do you think they would be O.K. with what I have already got?
<Temperament wise they should be fine as long as you have enough room.>
Because I have heard that all barbs are fin nippers, also would white clouds be O.K. with them?
<Some Barbs are horrible fin nippers but many are very peaceful. Cherries can be either way, the ones I have are peaceful but I’ve heard of others who nip constantly. White Clouds prefer a bit cooler water than your current fish but they can be and often are successfully kept with many of the species you currently have.>
I am looking for a peaceful community tank.
<Looks like you have it with maybe the exception of the Gourami’s. They can sometimes be quite aggressive but if they’re not causing any problems yet I’d keep them.>
Would be grateful for all your help. Thank you Robbie
<You’re very welcome.>

Re: Cherry Barb
Thank you for reply. I found your advice most helpful. Really appreciated. Cheers
<Glad to be of service. Ronni>

Danios Hogging all the Food!!!!!!!
Hello Gents, I have a quick question. I have a 20 gallon freshwater setup with Danios (I'm cycling) and Tiger Barbs. The problem is that when I feed my fish, the darn Danios eat up all the food before the Tiger Barbs can get any. Do you think I should pull the tiger barb and put him in a separate bowl for feeding and then put him back? Any help would be greatly appreciated. K-Fletch
<I would try just feeding them a bit more and then hopefully the Barb will get to eat too. Catching him to separate him just for feeding is probably going to cause him too much stress and then he won’t eat anyway. Ronni>

Tetras & Tinfoils
Hello, my name is Julie. My mom went on this site about my 4 black skirts and how one was fat in the same aquarium their is another problem, I have 4 tinfoil barbs and their eating my neons we had 15 and now we only have 10, and I wanted to know if it is smart to give them away? (they are not feeding neons) Julie (9 years old)
<Julie, giving them away or putting them into a different tank would be the best thing you could do for them. Ronni>

Tinfoils, Neons, & Guppies
Hello, it's me again. Julie Forino My tinfoil are getting along with the neons but if my tinfoil get bigger will they eat the guppies (male)
<Tinfoils are pretty non-aggressive but there is always the possibility of this happening. These types of fish really shouldn’t be mixed due to their size. And unless it is a large aquarium (55 gallon or more), you’re really better off to stick with the smaller fish like the neons and guppies.>
P.S. They’re not full grown yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<Nope, and Tinfoils can get very large, very fast. Ronni>

Tiger Barbs and plants, oh my!
Hey guys and gals!
<Howdy!>
I am happy to say that I accidentally stumbled across this site while searching for some information on freshwater fish.  This is one of the best places I have found information that I need for my new money sink, err, hobby. :D
<We’re happy you found us too! Terribly sorry for the delay in replying.>
Anyways, to the problem at hand.  I need your advice concerning a school of 5 Tiger barbs (Puntius tetrazona) I have in my tank.  It is a 20 gallon (24"x12"x18") utilizing a Whisper 20 (with a Triad retrofit kit), water heater, and a basic hood with lighting.  The living contents of the tank consist of 5 Tiger Barbs (on the small side - ranging in size from just under an inch to just over an inch), 2 Leopard Corys (Corydoras julii), an
assortment of live plants, and some of those useful bacteria that help do the nitrogen cycle thing. The tank is 6-7 weeks old.  I had plastic plants in the tank until two days ago when I changed them out for live plants.  (I was having a problem getting the nitrogen cycle closed.  (It's a long story - don't think it has anything to do with the problem I am having with the barbs, but if you think it does I will be more than happy to give the details.)  I have to say that the fish seem happier.  The down side is that the barbs appear to have become more aggressive in the process.
<Interesting>
The Corys are coping by hiding in the plants and coming out when food is available or when the barbs seem to be lazing about.  However the plants have no where to go.  The barbs appear to be nipping at my red wendtii (Cryptocoryne wendtii), biting off small chunks and generally terrorizing the foliage.  The behavior stops once they are fed.  I started thinking that the problem could be controlled by ensuring they are fed enough.  However, the other part of "fed enough" is overfeeding which would result in a variety of different issues in the tank. My question is this: what should I do with the barbs?  I would rather not get rid of them - I am responsible for them after all.  I do not think getting rid of the plants is a good idea either.  Would feeding enough be counter balanced with the plants in the tank?  Would adding some other type of fish help regulate their behavior?  Are the plants tough enough to handle the abuse?  Are there any other options available to me?
<Overfeeding is still going to cause lots of problems, even in a heavily planted tank. I would suggest removing all of the fish from the tank, rearrange the plants & decorations, and then add the fish back in. Put the Corys in first and let them be alone in the tank for an hour or two, then add the Tiger Barbs back. This will mess up their territory and putting the Corys in first will give them a short time to adjust to the new arrangements before the Barbs are added back. If they do still nip at your plants I wouldn’t worry about it too much, they most likely won’t do enough damage to matter. If the plants start looking pretty poor then you’ll have to either remove the plants or the Tigers but I doubt this will happen. You might also put in a soft plant that you don’t care if they eat. Anacharis works well for this as it’s inexpensive and soft/tasty enough that most fish will chew on it some. Maybe then they’d leave your others alone. Not positive on this but it might be worth a try.>
My future plans for the tank are to add a Cory to bring the total to 3.  I am also contemplating adding a school of Rosy Barbs (Puntius conchonius) in several months (assuming there is "room" in the tank) as well as some sort of algae eating critters if the need arose.
<Rosies may not be a good choice here. They tend to be very non-aggressive and would get picked on by the Tigers. Your tank isn’t going to hold too many more fish, maybe 2-3 more plus a small pleco at the most so if you’re set on adding more you’d probably be best to go with more Tigers, maybe of the Albino or Green varieties. These will school with your current ones but would give you a bit of a color variation.>
In closing I would like to thank you guys again for having a fabulous website.  I look forward to your advice. --Ted
<Thank you! Ronni>

Tiger barbs
<Ananda here, answering the freshwater fish questions...>
Hi I have three tiger barbs in my tank at the moment and hope to get three more at the weekend. I have been told they can be semi aggressive (although they look like pussycats in the tank)
<Appearance can be deceiving, especially with these fish.>
Also I have two mollies which I had hoped to put in this tank.
<Their fins and tails will look like tasty treats to the tiger barbs, who will be unable to resist nipping them.>
Some people say its ok as long as I have a least six barbs. Others say its a no no. What is your opinion.
<While multiple barbs may reduce some inter-species aggression, they will remain fin-nippers. Please read the good information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/BarbsDaniosRasborasArt.htm.>
I was hoping to free the present tank with the mollies to keep for any fry. Confused with all the conflicting advice. I have got attached to the mollies and I would hate for them to die at the same time I rather like the barbs as well.
<Hmmm... "attached to" vs. "rather like"... sounds like you prefer the mollies. They are one of my favorite fish species, too, for their beautiful coloration and finnage. I would keep them separate. Mollies rarely eat their fry, so raising them in the same tank as the parents is usually possible.>   
Totally confused. Margaret
<Hope this helps ease the confusion. --Ananda>

Re: tank mates for Barbs
WWM crew,
I was looking through your barb FAQs, and noticed that you recommend Gouramis for tank mates with barbs.  I have a 400 gal. tank, and would like to have more variety than just barbs and Gouramis.  Could you please recommend a few more?  Thanks!
<Certainly. The larger, faster (related minnow-fishes) rasboras, Danios would be great... and maybe the freshwater angelfishes in such a large system, as well as many choices in dwarf South American cichlids (like the Apistogrammas). More? Bob Fenner>
Rochelle

Tiger barbs and Otocinclus
I just brought home 3 Otocinclus and 1 twig catfish for my 29 gallon tank containing 4 tiger barbs.  The tigers are ganging up on the otos and chasing them all over the tank.  I am worried that the stress will kill them!  They have not spotted the twig cat yet but I have just read that the twig cat is easily harassed.  These are the fish that were recommended by the aquarium store (Old Orchard Aquarium in Skokie, Illinois) knowing that I have the
barbs.  I was going to buy a clown Pleco having read up on them.  The guy in the store said they were not good algae eaters and to get the twig cat instead.  I am ticked!  I don't want these fish to suffer but what if the store won't take them back tomorrow?
<Hello, Tiger Barbs sure can be terrors.  If you provide plenty of cover and dark hiding places they should be ok.  Live plants are great.  If the tiger barbs do not ease up on them after a while you may want to consider removing the Otocinclus.  Please be sure that there is enough food to go around for the otos and the twig catfish.  Have you checked out the article below, good stuff.  Best Regards,  Gage
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/otocinclusart.htm>

Rosy Barbs and Tiger Barbs Oh My!
I am new to fishkeeping and I have questions about the tiger barbs. I have started with 4 tigers to cycle the tank and I discovered that I like them.
<A very nice fish, a little nippy at times, but pretty.>
At the instruction of my dealer I have 3 rosy barbs in my quarantine tank waiting to go in the main tank
<Be still my beating heart! You have a quarantine tank for your freshwater display. God bless you sir! You will surely be rewarded!>
instead of buying 2 or 3 more tigers as most books suggest.
<I would be happy as long as you have three or more.>
He says its because I have only a 29 gallon tank and there won't be enough room for other fish if the schools are too big.
<A fair point.>
He also says that since they are in the same family the Rosies and the tigers will not harm each other.
<I would prefer to put it as they will be able to put up with each other's abuse.>
I am a little skeptical. Is 4 ok for a school of tigers?
<Sure>
Is 3 ok for Rosie's?
<Yes, these are a little less prone to school, at least not as tightly as the Tiger Barbs.>
Is it boring to have just 2 or 3 schools swimming around?
<You will be able to fit more than these seven fish in your tank.>
I don't want the tank to look too "busy". Also, what other fish do you suggest adding for variety? Stephen
<Giant Danios are another of my favorites. Various Gouramis would work, too. -Steven Pro>

Rosy Barbs and Tiger Barbs Oh My! II
Hey Steven, thanks for replying so fast!
<No sweat, you caught me at a good time.>
Do you think fish look better in larger schools?
<I think schooling fish should be kept in schools. Depending on the size of the tank, a large, tight school of fish is impressive to me.>
About the quarantine tank: My dealer is reputable. Their tanks look great and the Rosies looked healthy all 4 times I visited the store in the past month. How long do they need to be in my quarantine tank?
<Two weeks in perfect condition minimum for QT to be effective.>
I see that you find various Gouramis compatible with tigers. Most books say the same, but the stores all say not to do it. Why?
<You would have to ask them.>
I would love to have one. Is it the blue and gold Gouramis (Trichogaster trichopterus) that are tough enough to deal with the barbs?
<These are the most common ones and the ones I use often.>
Thanks! Stephen
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Rosy barb
3 years old,, turned gray,, acts normal should isolate?
<if acquired as an adult, the change may be "old age". Else diet related. Unlikely that QT is necessary, but do so if convenient if and until further symptoms are observed. Also try some color enhancing food pellets. If your diet for the fishes has been dry food only, this is a problem. Do add a variety of frozen fare as well (bloodworms for example... but never brine shrimp... nutritively poor!) Best regards, Anthony>

Barb Sickness
I have a ten gallon tank. I have two rosy barbs, three guppies, three platys, one snail, one Otocinclus, and two African dwarf frogs, two
plants. After a bad start, everything is going well. Three days ago one of my barbs turns up with what looks like a big red zit near the base of his back bone near his tale. No other fish are sick and he seems to be fine eating and all that. Do you have any idea what it is? I think it's probably a parasite. What's your take and what do I treat with? I am pretty much limited to anything from Mardel.
Annie M.
<Could be several things. Probably not parasitic although it could be an anchor worm. Do you see something coming out of the eruption? Anchor worms are more common is pond fish, though. More likely bacterial in nature and a broad spectrum antibiotic is your best course of action. -Steven Pro>

Long-Finned Red Rosie Barbs vs.. Peaceful 29 Gallon Community 
Dear Bob Fenner,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I was delighted when I found your WetWebMedia website yesterday. I found it very informative and very helpful. I thank you! In trying to locate it again today I found that I had best be more careful to have the absolute correct address for future reference (don't leave off the media -- good grief!).
<hehe... how about setting the WWM page as the default homepage in your browser <wink>>
In a nutshell, I have had fresh water tropical (and cold/goldfish) community fish aquariums on and off since I was a kid. I am now in my fourth decade with four kids who have each tried their hand at same. Most recently, we moved our 29 gallon aquarium from one end of our home to the other at a point when it was fishless and only had a few plants. I've restarted it. It is in pretty good shape except that the Ammo-Lock that I put in it (that I was told I probably never needed since it sat there for at least a couple months in only a few inches of previous aquarium water with only plants and no fish) causes any readings to show high ammonia content; 
<you can get an accurate ammonia test reading if you use dry tab reagents instead>
and the ph is bit high; about 7.8. I put some PH Down in there today. We'll see how it reads tomorrow. What I have now are three (3) beautiful Long-Finned Red Rosie Barbs. 
<yes...gorgeous>
I purchased them at Petsmart eight (8) days ago. They seem in very good health. However, two of the three have come to have some shredded fins. One of them I figure to be the champ. He looks great! After doing some more extensive reading after the purchase, I realize that I purchased some fish that are more aggressive than I wanted for this tank. I phoned Petsmart. They said I may return them within 14 days of the purchase. I figure I have six (6) more days to decide whether or not to return these beautiful Barbs and go for some more peaceful fish. My 15-year-old, 10-year-old (the two of my four kids that are still at home), and my 49-year-old (my husband) have expressed that they would like to see Angelfish in our tank. I know these beautiful Barbs won't get along with Angelfish. I also know my ph is way too high for Angelfish. I'm told my ph should be 7.0 for Angelfish. I would like a peaceful, yet interesting aquarium. I think my best bet is to bring down my ph, and return the beautiful, yet too aggressive, Long-Finned Red Rosie Barbs to Petsmart. 
<I hate to see them go too... but, yes... I agree>
I believe what I would eventually like to see in my aquarium would be some Angelfish, Red Sunset Gouramis, Corys, White Long-Finned Tetras (?), maybe a Pleco.. (Rock Fish) (?), more plants, and some Mystery Snails. I'm not sure what else might fit well into this type of tank. I am open to any good suggestions and advice.
<harlequin rasboras, gold tetras, dwarf ram cichlids...so many choices>
I do have a couple more questions. I wonder if you would know why I actually have a hard time keeping snails alive in my tank. For some reason they never last long. I live in the northern Maryland suburbs of the Washington-Metropolitan area. Could it have anything to do with my water? 
<sure lack of minerals...too much of a given metal/mineral, etc>
I do use dechlorinator, and I do let the water sit for a day or two before putting it in the tank.
<not really necessary. Just dechlorinator is fine>
My last question (for now) pertains to Corys. I love Corys -- any kind of Cory. I lean toward the less expensive, less popular kind. I have always had at least (and usually) one in any tank I've ever kept. I never knew this before, but I am told they like to school. I am told I should have at least three. 
<absolutely>
The problem I have experienced (more than just a couple of times over the years) with Corys is that whenever I added a second Cory to my one, the first one (that had usually been there for months to years) has always died very shortly thereafter (days to weeks). Can you think of any reason why this would happen? 
<a bit odd if there are no other new fish deaths>
Maybe one is okay, two is bad, three is better? I've never tried having more than two Cory's in my tank at a time. I never heard before last week that they liked to school. 
<even three may not be enough if you get too many males. more than three would be nice for a shoal>
Thank you very much for any help you can be. Yours truly, Marianne db
<best regards, Anthony>

Heavy Breathers
<Maris... Anthony Calfo here with bells on, in Bob's stead>
Could you tell me why my tiger barbs all time very fast breathe and very often stand with the heads to ground, fast breathing?
<Perhaps because they know that the Pittsburgh Steelers are going to win the Super Bowl (I'm feeling and acting the same way myself)... but all joking aside, the symptoms you have observed are not necessarily normal or healthy. So many things it could be... high water temperature, gill damage from medication or infection, impending outbreak of a pathogen, toxin in the water, etc. Do the fish act normal at feeding time or through most of the day with other fishes? What readings do you get with water chemistry test specifically? How old is the tank and how well is it stocked? Please reply with more info. Thanks kindly, Anthony>

Re: Tiger Barbs
<Maris... your English is very good. My apologies for making the joke about football that was not familiar to you (smile). It is a pleasure to hear from you from so far across the world!>
And so you said me to give more info about my tiger barbs. I have 45 litres tank, the temperature is about 27-29 0C. I don't now how much it is in the Fahrenheit scale. 
<good but perhaps a tiny bit warm. I would maintain 27C as the maximum temperature... especially in a well stocked tank to allow for more dissolved oxygen>
But maybe you know. I have only 2 these tiger barbs in my tank, I have 9 other fishes living in this tank. I now that they don't have enough room, but I don't think that this could be the reason of so strange behaviour of barbs. 
<yes... a bit overstocked which makes it more difficult to maintain water quality. Check the pH if possible. If it is lower than 6.5, that may also cause such strange behavior from acidosis with this creature>
I don't have the this water chemistry test equipment. I live in Latvia (If you know this country. It lays at Baltic sea), where this water chemistry test equipment that costs not so little money, how it could cost in America. My tiger barbs at feeding time act normally, they only catch food very fast. In other time my 2 tiger barbs all time try to catch each other, I own them almost 2 years,
<wonderful and mostly normal>
and they stand with the heads to ground very often all these 2 years. 
<again... not terrible, perhaps normal. My main concern is the rapid breathing>
And I know that they are healthy. My tank is clean too. Maybe you didn't understand something of my story, because my English isn't very good. But I hope you understood something.
<very clear and understood, Maris. I wish I could do you the honor of speaking in your language
p.s.: Maybe you could tell me how often it is necessary to change the water of tank and how much?
<25% monthly is a good start for water changes. With heavy fish loads you may want to try 10% weekly which is even better>
I hope I didn't bother you much. I see you love bowling or maybe it is football.
<no bother at all... my pleasure! And yes, I am a good American football fan and we have a championship event coming up... Go Steelers! Best regards to you, Anthony>

Red glass barbs
Bob, I love working with the barbs, have raised cherry, gold, red glass,
rosy, Odessa, and love finding others to work with. My next project is the
checkerboard barb and the red ruby.
<Both great fishes>
Setting up tanks for these tomorrow. I keep a journal of all my spawns and write articles on them.
<Ah, commendable>
I was fortunate to breed and now am raising the Amano shrimp. I sent a copy of this article
to the TFH magazine. I am building a web site which will have articles on my
spawnings. If interested will send you the URL.
Wilma
<Please do. Will gladly pos