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FAQs about Fungiid Coral Health/Disease 3

FAQs on Fungiid Disease: Fungiid Disease 1, Fungiid Disease 2, Fungiid Disease 4, Fungiid Health 5, Fungiid Health 6, Fungiid Health 7,
FAQs on Fungiid Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments

Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Fungiid Corals

Related FAQs: Fungiid Disease 1, Fungiid Disease 2, Fungiid Disease 4, Fungiid Health 5, Fungiid Health 6, Fungiid Health 7, & Coral Disease, Fungiid Corals 1Fungiid Corals 2Fungiid Identification, Fungiid Behavior, Fungiid Compatibility, Fungiid Selection, Fungiid Systems, Fungiid Feeding, Fungiid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral PlacementFoods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef CoralsStony Coral Behavior,

Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/09/09 I have been an avid reader of your site for a couple months now and would like some expert advice. Here is my current problem, my pink Fungia plate coral which has been doing well, started showing signs of white skeleton around the mouth are yesterday. <Yikes, not good. How long have you had this coral? If you've had it a long time (several months or more) and only just now started target feeding it, it might be starving to death.> I came home tonight and it was worse. I watched it last night in the dark and it was the first night it had not open it's tentacles at all. I tried target feeding it last night, but never saw it eat. It still has some color, but it has puked up a lot of it onto the sand bed. My parameters all checked out o.k. except two, salinity was at 1.027, I have since lowered it to 1.026. My calcium is high enough that I can't get an accurate reading to tell you, it's at 600 or more, <Calcium is too high... makes me suspect that your Alk is much too low.> I have changed out water, but calcium is still high, ph seems to reside where it always does between 8.0-8.1, is there anything I can do? Should I remove it. <No> Here are my tank specs. 65 gallon wide 4x96 watts 2 10,000k, two blue actinic, 1 flower anemone, 1 tube anemone, a pair of mated percula clownfish, 1 green Chromis, one hippo tang, 1 goby Firefish, 1 mandarin goby, 1 coral banded shrimp, several blue and red legged hermit crabs, 1 emerald crab(maybe 2), 1 anemone crab, 1 sand sifting starfish, a few Cerith snails, a few turbo snails, white star polyps, green star polyps, flower pot coral, Kenya tree frag, xenia colony, yellow button polyps, blue zoos(small colony growing on a half clam shell), green zoos, amour of god zoos(very small colony), colt coral, blue anthelia, purple, red and blue mushroom colonies, and my pink Fungia plate. My tank may be over stocked? <This is somewhat a matter of opinion, but yes, I think you have too many different types of coral in too small a tank... many of which are notorious for their toxicity to each other and other corals.> Did my high calcium level start to kill my plate? <Perhaps not by itself, but really high calcium usually means that other parameters are out of whack (such as alkalinity). Also, I suspend that maybe you haven't had this tank for very long. You may have added too many things to the tank too quickly-- and before giving yourself enough time to learn good aquarium maintenance... and to let your system age.> Is there any way to save it? <Time will tell. If you have a friend with an older tank and more reef aquarium experience, you might give it to him/her for awhile. Otherwise, I suggest you leave it where it is and concentrate on getting your water parameters closer to ideal (do this slowly). If/when it starts to recover> Do I leave it or pull it? I am running a skimmer, and several pumps, as well as a whisper 30 hang on filter with carbon. Everything else seems to be doing well, here is a picture of the tank layout. <A good sign at least...> Thanks for any help or advice in advance. Aaron
<De nada,
Sara M.>

down here at left
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/09/09 After testing the calcium several times(new test), seems to be somewhere between 580-600, so it is high and I just changed out some water with fresh water to lower the salinity, (my salt has calcium in it, so I don't know if a further water change will help or hurt.) Did high calcium levels lead to my dying plate coral? Wouldn't other corals in my tank suffer first? <Please see my response to your first query for answers to these questions. -Cheers, Sara M.>
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/09/09
Thanks Sara! The tank is about 9months old, transferred with most of the water and new substrate to a bit larger tank 3 months ago. The tank has done really well in the last couple of months, outside of the plate coral(recent) and the high calcium levels. <I can't say for sure, but sometimes LPS and soft corals (especially leathers), just don't mix.> Is there anyway to bring the calcium down and raise the alkalinity safely and easily? I know I can do water changes, but unless I buy cheaper salt, this is just going to add more calcium to my tank. <You can add baking soda to slowly raise the alkalinity... this will lower the calcium. Please see here: http://www.asira.org/practicalchemistrybasics> How does the layout look in the pic? <Looks fine, but expect some (or a lot) of warfare once these things "take off" growing.> I think I have things separated and positioned properly for what I have. I could move some things to another tank eventually. I can send you more pics if that would help. <Thanks for the pics. I think your tank is fine for a soft coral set up. Just don't be too surprised if you continually have troubles with stony corals amongst all those softies in such a small-ish volume of water. You could add to water volume by adding a remote refugium.> Thanks, Aaron <De nada, Sara M.>
Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/10/09
Thanks for the great advice and links, one last question, in your opinion should I remove some of my soft corals if I want to try and keep a plate coral, I do have a large sump that I was planning on turning into a refugium <Unfortunately, moving the soft corals to a sump or refugium might not help much since their toxins can travel between tanks. If it were me, I would remove (entirely) at least the leather corals. Also, you might try moving the Fungia to the sump (if it's well lit). For whatever reason, *sometimes* they do better there.> at some point. I really think plate corals are fascinating <I do agree... they are great corals!> and would love to keep one or do I need to have a second tank for this? <I would advice you to first get your water parameters right and stable for awhile. I'm not entirely sure which is the problem here. So best to get everything else in order, and stable. Then by process of elimination, think about what the problem might be.> Is it possible having the amount of softies I have may be a problem in itself without trying to keep anything else. <You might have to remove some things (like the leathers). But it is certainly possible to keep soft corals and Fungia together. Some of these things can get along, especially if you run a lot of activated carbon. However, you might have to remove some of the softies.> Still learning, at least I am slowly learning from past mistakes. <We are all still, slowly learning. :-) Best, Sara M.>

Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/10/09 One last question, this is about the dumbest mistake I have ever made in this hobby, I read my thermometer wrong, since I have set up this tank, about two-three months since I transferred my tank to this one, I got a new thermometer and have been reading it wrong, my temp is at 85-86 consistently, <This is too warm. My advice, get 1 or 2 more thermometers... of any type (they don't have to be for aquariums necessarily, just anything reliable and accurate that you can dip in water). Aquarium thermometers are often unreliable. I personally have about 5 and they all read slightly different temperatures. I usually just average them.> which everything seems to be happy with, should I try and drop my temp a bit and how slow. I know I should attempt to drop it no more than 1 degree a day I would assume. <Yes, do drop the temperature (slowly, 1 degree a day) to closer to 80 to 82F. Best, Sara M.>

Re: Pink Fungia Plate Coral 01/10/09 I am concerned, lowering the temp could cause more problems, especially if it lowers too quickly. It's hard to control this precisely. I have three heaters in the tank, I lowered the 150 watt quite a bit and left the two 100 watts as is, so far in 5 hours the temp has gone from 86 to 85 I won't be able to check it again until morning, everything still looks well. <good> I added two extra thermometers to be sure the temp was correct. I suspect the temp combined with high calcium killed the Fungia as well as perhaps irritation from the leather, however I think it's strange that the star polyps, yellow button polyps, anemones, and xenia <The star polyps, yellow buttons, xenia... these are all extremely hardy corals. In fact, many seasoned reef aquarists consider them "weeds" because they grow so fast in healthy tanks and are actually often difficult to kill/abate. As an experiment, I once threw some Zoanthids (button polyps) in a 10g tank with no light (except for a little ambient sunlight) and didn't top it off or do anything to the tank for over a month. By the time I finally remembered they were in there, about 1/3 of the water had evaporated, the salinity was through the roof. The water was actually cold and I'm sure the parameters were all completely out of whack... even the algae had died... but those Zoanthids hung in there. They weren't happy. They were skinny and brown, but they were alive. I guess my point is... these are difficult corals to kill. Just because they are doing well in your system, that doesn't necessarily mean you're doing everything right. Fungia are different. They are more sensitive. That said, they are also known for their seemingly miraculous recoveries. So unless there's no tissue at all left on the coral, I wouldn't consider it dead yet.> are all doing so well along with everything else. <Best, Sara M.>

Wilted plate coral -09/05/08 I have checked out the web trying to find an answer, I have a 150 gal. reef fish and reef tank I have many corals soft and stony coals for about four years all corals are fine my water is good I have a large filter my fish do not pick at my corals my corals are so well they reproduce all the time but I have a large long tentacled plate coral (Heliofungia) that I have had for about four months it looked great for maybe a month or two and now for a while it looks like its tentacles are almost wilty looking I have moved it I have under a more bright but not too bright with a slight current but not strong area in my tank I feed it about two times a week I usually feed it sinking fish food pellets it does eat them all the other coral seem good with that food please help it is beautiful I do not want to lose it. <Unfortunately, these corals just don't do when in captivity. People often get them thinking they are as "hardy" as their cousins the Fungia, but they are not. Sadly, there's likely not much you can do to save this coral. Best,
Sara M.>

Heliofungia actiniformis -09/05/08 Hi Crew, please look at the picture on the attachment. I have 2 of these LPS for 3 months which opens fully and this 1 is been like this for +-10 days. I cannot see any jelly or dead flesh on the LPS, except for stinging cells. Path of the LPS tentacles is extended, picture 035. Is this a dieses, do I need to do something, please advise? <Unfortunately, these particular corals (Heliofungia) just do not do well in captivity. Sorry, but there's likely not much you can do.> thanks
Sara M.>
Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/4/08 I am new to this site and am not sure where this will end up on the site---it appears to be a bit confusing to me. I have 2 questions. <Okay! > I found several articles on bulb tipped anemones and found some great information. Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has just decided last night to fill with water and float all over the tank. I understand this behavior means she is not happy and is looking for a prime spot. <Correct> Also, she seems a little lighter in color---perhaps she is not getting the proper nutrition/lighting. <It has expelled some of its Zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of lighting, nutrition or another form of stress. > However she refuses to stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle stimulation---and refuses to eat anything. <This does not sound promising. > I used tongs to target feed some fresh shrimp, then brine shrimp---she may have eaten a small amount of a shrimp pellet. <Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly hatched, or enriched. Discontinue the pellet food, and try small portions of Krill, Mysis Shrimp, or Silversides. > My tank parameters have been consistent and good, and all of my critters are doing very well. How long do they usual do the float? <Until they find a suitable spot. If one is not available, it may float around until its death. > I know no one that has a different/better set up. Any ideas I can do? I also was given a small tentacle coral plate. <Fungia? > I also have read about their behavior----swelling with water at times. However-mine lives on a sandy substrate and the only indicator I see that she is alive, is that she is still orange. I see no tentacles and no food moving towards her mouth and refuses target feeding. She also has mucous around her. <Is it getting any flow? What are you feeding? How long have you had it? > I hope to hear from you soon-in the meantime I will continue to read more on your website! <Good! > 38G, live rock---mushrooms and polyps (1/2 the tank)---"shelf" model---rest is sand and small shells Nova extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue, 2 VHO-Led light at night Penguin BioWheel 150 filter and a protein skimmer <What kind of protein skimmer? Do you have any other flow? > 2 Percula clowns, 3 green Chromis, 1 black and white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail Damsels <That's a whole lot of Damsels! > Several species of snail and hermit crabs, <Crabs can be predators. > 1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle star, 1 shifting sand star T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022, <This is much too low of salinity for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by adding pre-mixed saltwater as your top off daily. > ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10, <Work on getting nitrates down to zero. > calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14 dKH, <Your calcium is a bit low and your dKH is a bit high. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium level? > phosphates=.5 <Needs to be zero. > I also perform a 5 gallon water changes weekly and rinse filters daily. <Filters do not need to be rinsed daily. How old is your system? How much live rock do you have? > Thank you! Christina <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/4/08  6/9/08 Thanks for the reply Brenda! <You're welcome! > Annie (BTA) is still alive-I am not sure how-unless she is getting minimal nutrition from the shrimp that I feed the fish. <It is likely getting some nutrition from the waste from the fish. > I lightly squished her into the live rock before bedtime-and hoped she wouldn't die---But she actually likes the spot!!! <Perfect! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it stays. Just be careful when handling the anemone. They are very delicate creatures.> Today I am going to buy some Krill, Mysis shrimp and silversides. <Great! > Re: the Fungia-I have no alt flow-I can buy a powerhead also. <You will need the added flow. This may have been what the anemone was looking for also. Be sure to cover the intake to protect the anemone.> I am feeding-frozen brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh shrimp (small chunks), and Nori. The Fungia is still bright orange. I have had her for 4 weeks. My tank overall is a new tank---approximately 9 months old. I put in 19 lbs live rock when I set the tank up. I am bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a lot of Damsels---a couple have a "gig" next week-to help cycle my mom's tank. <I don't recommend using fish to cycle a tank. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm The parameters are better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH) Plan: Get Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead Slowly increase SG Get Magnesium tests I am trying with frequent water changes to bring the nitrates and phosphates down. <Have you considered a refugium and/or macro algae. More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm  > What is the best food for Fungia-I have heard many different opinions. <Meaty foods such as the Mysis, Silversides or Krill. > I will have to get back to you about the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks again!! Teena <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/11/08 Just a quick update--The Anemone is eating the Silversides and the Fungia is eating (I now actually see it) the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if happy with the increase in flow! Thanks again and I will talk to you soon! <That is great news! Brenda>

Orange Plate Coral Missing Mouth -- 5/3/08 Dear Masters of The Waterverse, <Heeee!> Your website is the best with the most information out there, keep up the awesome work. <Trying> I am a newby to the salt realm. I used the search and it seems like there was a case similar but his picture looked somewhat different. I started about 7 months ago. Most of the time it feels like I'm a glutton for punishment so here is my latest escapade that hopefully any one there can help me out with. I have a 30g tank, Aqua C HOT skimmer, Whisper 40 filter, Compact USA Power Compact Lights 186 W, Hydor Koralia 2. My water parameters are: Salinity : 1.024 Ammonia: 0 Nitrate: 0 Phosphate: 0 PH: 8.4 Temp: 80 F 30 lbs live rock Calcium 400 ppm KH/GH:10 I do 2 to 3 gallons water change per week. Although tank is 30 gallon the water inside is 20 gallons. I started using ro/di water two weeks ago due to algae, red slime, green slime, brown diatoms. I have hermit crabs 4 big(1 inch) striped legged, 4 blue legged, 2 cleaner shrimp and 1 peppermint and various snails, Cerith and Nerite. Fishwise I don't have anything that can harm the coral. Yellow tang (I know, but it's small), <Mmm... this tank is too small> Clown fish, Chromis, blue neon goby. I have small frags of some zoos, 1 Ricordea, 1 polyp of candy cane, 2 small open brain (3 inch), 1 red mushroom. About 5 days ago I bought an orange plate about 2.5 inches diameter, I drop <A fox pass... Faux pas... you would do well... much better to have/use a separate system for acclimating/isolating new livestock> acclimated for over 2 hours and dipped it in Lugol's solution according to the directions. the first 2 says were great tentacles were out, I could see the mouth open and shut, but on day 3 Wednesday the mouth looked missing and I did not see any tentacles, I did see some white filaments for a short period of time. Last night day 4 I did see the peppermint shrimp picking at the mouth area <Bad...> , but did not see it do that the previous 2 days. And when I look I look for a long time (my wife hates the fish tank) <Not good... I'd be recruiting her> during the day and at night and did not see anyone bother it. The coral has been placed on the sand. I moved it closer to Hydor Koralia 2 pump so that it could get a slightly stronger water flow. I've attached some pics so maybe you have some advice for me? Is this normal for the coral? Should I put it in a protective box and spot feed? <I would> Is it the moving around causing it stress? <Yes> Is the mouth severely retracted or gone (with open brain I can always see a mouth but this is just a cavity)? <Just retracted> What should I do? <Read> I don't think I have the tissue recession as the other guy on the post but I could be wrong. The pictures are pretty blurry (old school digital camera). If they are so horrible and can't determine let me know and I'll get a better camera and from someone and redo them. I would appreciate any and all advice. Thanks. Steve Chen
<An intermediate setting Steve... Bob Fenner>

WTF is this plate coral doing? HELP... Using WWM 04/22/08 See WWM re Heliofungia (actiniformis)... an inappropriate aquarium specimen... this one is dying rapidly, being overgrown by Cyanobacteria. Bob Fenner>

Fungia coral hlth -04/06/08 Is there any chance in saving this coral? <As long as there is still live tissue, there is a chance.> Well established tank, over 9 years. I got this coral from someone and it wasn't looking good when i got it. There is still some flesh on it, I reduced the light on that side of the tank. Water is all good <Why did you reduce the light? That might not necessarily help here. Best,
Sara M.>

Fungia Plate Coral/Health 2/4/08 I purchased a Fungia Plate Coral (short tentacle) a few days ago. In the shop it looked quite smooth and very happy, it never looked like that again ever since I've brought it home. I moved it yesterday and I accidently moved one of my hands too quickly which sent some sand up which stuck to the plate coral. I then used a pipette to squirt water onto it to remove the sand. I didn't know what to do. And now it looks very ill, it is completely retracted and its mouth is wide open and it spits out brown stuff. I don't know what to do please help. Would I have done something to make it ill? <The coral is more than likely expelling it's Zooxanthellae. This occurs when water conditions/parameters are not to it's liking. You mention nothing of your water parameters and lighting so I cannot comment more on this. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's on this subject. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm  James (Salty Dog)>

Disintegrating Helio 12/19/07 Hi guys, another problem has occurred. I have a Helio Fungia that has been doing very well for over 12 months. <Unusual for this genus/species... a poor survivor in captivity> 3 or 4 days ago I moved a powerhead (Tunze) to change the flow around a little. I noticed yesterday that my Helio was losing flesh and that parts of the skeleton were showing. I thought maybe that the flow had been too forceful and had torn the poor guy. I have 4 questions: 1. Would the force of the water be enough to do this? (the Helio was on the opposite side of a 95 gallon tank to the Tunze and it was "directly blasting it"). <Not likely... it would move if so> 2. If this was the cause will the Helio recover? <Not the cause likely, nor recovery likely> 3. Is there anything else I can do for it ( I have already moved it to a quieter part of the tank) and 4th. <Possibly... Perhaps iodine/ide/ate administration... I don't proscribe fragmentation of Heliofungia> If it is not going to make it, does it pose health risks for other inhabitants? <In this size/volume, with good filtration, circulation, not likely> I am quickly trying to put a hospital tank together to move it to. Thanks once again (in advance) for your wealth of knowledge. Olly <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/fungiiddisfaqs.htm  and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

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