New Print and eBook on Amazon:   Anemone Success Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Sebae Health        2/3/16
Ok have a 220 reef I have had this set up since 10-07-15. 1 Sebae which has thrived up until lately.
<Clown, anemone?>
A couple of months ago I introduced a rose bubble tip which within 30 days split. The sisters are doing great. So is a large Toadstool coral a few very small stony's way up in the rock work, some Zoos,
<The Sarcophyton and Zoanthids don't play well w/ other Cnidarian groups. >
IF there is some sort of physical, chemical challenge in the system there could be real trouble here>
feather dusters and 13 small fish, 300lbs of live rock, 40 gallon sump/refugium and 3 Kessil 360 W lights. Water parameters are great. Run big Skimmer plenty of flow with double overflows and Tunze Wave Box.
The Sebae a bout 3 weeks ago started to get smaller at times
<Oh, so, Heteractis crispa>
so I started feeding a couple of times a week with Silversides
>See WWM re feeding this species<
only about the size of the mouth. Fed the bubbles at same time too and they look great but the Sebae wants to sometimes completely shrink up and go into the sand briefly which never worried me but it seems to be more inflated in the morning and evening hours or in darkness. At peak lighting times it's smaller and not extended as much. It does host an anemone crab
but has for 90 days at least. It is about 22 inches from a bubble tip and maybe 10 inches from the Toadstool coral which is very healthy.
I do water changes about every 3-4 weeks and do 3+ gallons.
<What volume is this?>
Everything looks great except the Sebae not as prolific as it should although color is very fine so I now it can't be the lights and it is not moving at all maybe 5 inches on a lateral move over 3 months but never came up out of the sand just got more focused under the light I think.
<Please, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SebAnemDisDiagF.htm and the linked files above....>
I figure maybe not thriving due to chemical warfare or maybe I should back off the feedings.
<You should READ>
Comments? I know I pushed the envelope on the cycling but took it very easy on the bio-load with tons of live rock sand seeding and skimming nothing was stressed. The Sebae and 2 banded corals went in at 30 days after setup and never showed signs of stress
Thanks in advance
Mike Murphy
<Enjoy the reading. Write back w/ specific questions, concerns (should you have them), after. Bob Fenner>
RE: Sebae Health        2/3/16
Sorry meant to say 30+ gallons on water change
<Ah; that makes more sense. B>
Re: Sebae Health... more incompatible tankmates         2/5/16
OK. I've already read all of the suggested reading prior to posting.
<//// ? then why are you feeding silversides? Go back and re-read>
The only thing I have not tried is force feeding the Crispa with a dropper and vitamin soaked mysis shrimp as a treat as it has been accepting silversides all along.
<I like popcorn too... but not good for me to eat it exclusively>
Coloration is still very good but during day at peak lighting times it is shrunken and tentacles are deflated somewhat until my LED controller starts o diminish intensity around 4-4:30 pm. At this time the tentacles tend to inflate more and more so into the darkness hours. The oral disc remains normal I appearance and it is still buried well in the sand. If these new Kessil 360's can keep stony corals and the other soft corals and anemones in good health they should do the same for this specimen.
<Agreed>
I have a well-established 55 gallon with live rock, led's macro algae and a pair of Maroon clowns that I am contemplating moving the crispa to in hopes that no other Cnidarians will be there to wage any chemical war fare and will recover.
<Good>
It has been thriving for 3 months until now and nothing in the water parameters are out of line and all other specimens are fine i.e.. 2 bubble tip, toadstool , Torch coral, 2 small carpet anemones
<!? NOT compatible. SEE/READ on WWM re>
and a small rock anemone so maybe someone is not playing well .
I did clean my skimmer out as the fractionizing tube was dirty and it was not effective but with all the macro and live rock for the short period of time should not have hurt anything as even when at 100% it does not take a heavy amount of wastes out.
Maybe I should give him another 24 before moving?
<I'd move it stat! Bob Fenner>
RE: Sebae Health         2/5/16
On the silversides issue maybe I'm missing something? I see several recommendations that is a good source only maybe soaked in Selcon.
<...."ideal foods are very finely minced meaty foods of marine origin Mysids, shrimp, krill, etc. Please do research more about this anemone in the FAQs and articles on this our site www.wetwebmedia.com">
I did start using RO water from a filtration system I purchased and the
last 2 water changes have been using that and also same for top of water
which would coincide with the timeline of this slow decline but when
everything else is healthy as can be I keep coming back to ware fare issues
between specimens.

Re: coral fluorescence - Thank you... H. crispa hlth., comp.       4/30/13
Thank you both for responding to me. I read a little bit each day on a myriad of subjects. Everyone here has an amazing amount of knowledge. One last question if I may (or two, or three... ). I have seen some amazing pictures online of Sebaes brought back from the brink. I cannot tell however if the green sheen mine has means it will be green once Zooxanthellae return.
<Usually "the sheen" is telling. Many anemones begin or re-begin brownish from white... but can/do reincorporate Zooxanthellae that are capable of adopting pigments of a few hues>
Also assuming I do well with this one, I will likely want a couple others of differing color. Some say that because it is not a clone they will fight but others just say not to mix species.
<Best not to; or to take a long time (months) approach of housing separately, mixing water between systems to acclimate them to each other>
 I would think that the chemicals given off by two corals or anemones of the same species would be the same.
<Mmm, no; not the case... each individual, as with humans, have a distinct chemical signature>
 Wouldn't they be immune then to each other's allelopathic chemicals and or stings?
 <They are not unfortunately. Some species are FAR more dominant than others. Bob Fenner>

Saving a Sebae/Heteractis crispa/Systems/Health 4/7/12
Dear WWM,
<Hello Eric>
   I have used your site on a couple occasions and wanted to say thanks for providing such in depth information for beginners such as myself.
Unfortunately, I recently ended up with a white Sebae Anemone. I bought it from my LFS who is usually a pretty reliable guy. It looks and behaves in a healthy manner in all aspects except the color. Which I have come to find indicates bleaching after researching the care. From what I have been seeing feeding of fresh shrimp and other seafoods in a necessity in its current state. I am hoping that you can provide me with any other tips on saving it. Is it possible to restore the Zooxanthellae in its system or cause it to grow some more?
<A chance.>
Is there any hope of keeping it healthy even though its bleached? I feel really bad about buying and therefore supporting the trade of what appears to be a commonly mistreated anemone and, I would very much like to save it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Currently:
ammonia 0
nitrate less than 40
<Too high.>
phosphates unknown
lights ho full spectrum fluorescents
sg .025
temp 78
tank size 10 gallon
<Tank much too small to maintain health of the Sebae Anemone.>
clarkii clown, LTA anemone
<Is the LTA in addition to the Sebae (Heteractis crispa)?>
<Not a good move in the size of tank you have.  If you are referring to the Sebae as a LTA, they are not the same.  A LTA or Corkscrew Anemone is a Macrodactyla  doreensis.>
( doing very well in current tank ) small scooter blenny.
I am currently halfway through cycling my 55 gallon tank which is where everything will be going too which is outfitted with a four bulb T5 HO system on a timer. 2 actinic bulbs and 2 full spectrums. 10000k's. I do a weekly water change and  monitor my levels constantly. I know its a bit of a small tank. It was my first one and i fell in love with it so now everyone in there will be getting a nice big new home :).
<Mmm, strongly suggest you read here and related articles found in the header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
Thank You for any help you can offer.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
> Re Saving a Sebae/Heteractis crispa/Systems/Health 4/8/12
> Dear WWM,
> <Hello Eric>
Thank you for the link James.
<You're welcome.>
The LTA I was referring to is a Long Tentacled or Corkscrew Anemone which is doing well. The Sebae is a second anemone (which I impulse purchased) shame on me I know.  I however have read your article and will be speaking with my local fish guy about taking it out and having him hold it or take it back until my larger tank is ready
thus decreasing my bio load in my small tank. Thank you for the advice and keep up the good work. I will certainly be more careful with my livestock purchases in the future.
<Yes, best to read/learn before buying.  James (Salty Dog)>

Sebae anemone  - 01/03/2006 Hi there! <Hello Marni> I have read and re-read your responses to 'upside down anemones" but none of the letters seems to match my situation exactly. I have a 55 gallon tank that was set up approximately 2 months ago.  To start the tank we were given an 8 year old tomato clown because it was too aggressive for a friends tank.  We purchased a sebae anemone and after reading your advice, we now know it was unhealthy (white with purple tips).  However, within 2 weeks half of it turned brown so that was a good sign.  It eats Mysis 2 times per week (this Mysis is FRESH and not store bought as my husband fishes this commercially for a living). We were having a major issue with hair algae and we were advised to do a 30% water change, scrub all the live rock and place everything back in the tank - which we did the next day after preparing new water, etc.  After the water change the pH plummeted to 7.2 <Not good> and the ammonia was higher than before we did the change but still only at .25.  Nitrates were also registering but not high.  Everything was in the "safe" range still.  The tank had done its 'cycling' but even with the tank cycling it has never had any 'spikes' in the nitrates or ammonia or anything else - everything has remained in the 'safe' range this whole time. Since we did the water change (3 days ago) our anemone went up the side of the tank (half on the side and half on the bottom - which is live sand).  It came detached from the side of the tank and flipped upside down.  We noticed that the bottom was inflating and deflating regularly the next day and the anemone made its way to a chunk of rock and reattached itself BUT 24 hours later it flipped upside down again - which it seemed to do on purpose because of it inflating its bottom side.  All the tentacles are plump and moving.  The bottom is inflating and deflating.  The tomato clown is still actively 'nuzzling' its home.  The mouth of the anemone is right on bare glass.  Should we flip it and put it back on a its perch where it was before and monitor it to see if it flips itself again  or should we just remove it from the tank altogether? <Have you raised the ph of the tank to an acceptable level?  If not, this needs to be done.  As far as the anemone, I would place a divider in the tank to keep the clownfish from disturbing the anemone, then upright the anemone and give it a chance to anchor before reintroducing the clown.  James (Salty Dog)> Thank you for any info. Marni Murray