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FAQs on Sebae, Heteractis crispa Anemone Health/Disease 3
Related Articles: Heteractis crispa/Sebae
Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones,
Anemones, Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs:
Sebae Disease,
Sebae Anemone Health 2, &
Sebae
Anemones 1, Sebae Anemones 2,
Sebae Anemones 3,
Sebae Identification,
Sebae Behavior, Sebae
Compatibility, Sebae Selection,
Sebae Systems, Sebae
Feeding, Sebae Reproduction,
Anemones,
Anemones 2, Caribbean Anemones,
Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones,
Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone
Reproduction, Anemone Lighting,
Anemone
Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone
Selection, Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health, Anemone
Placement, Anemone Feeding, Heteractis
malu,
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H. crispa Health . . . perhaps
too late 4-2-08
Good day to all of you at WWM, how are you?
<<I can’t speak for everyone but my status is up to par.>>
I have a friend that bought an Sebae anemone a few weeks ago and did no research
on the species before he bought it.
<<Unfortunate.>>
He had way to small of a tank
and not nearly enough lighting, and on top of that the species was already
bleached.
<<Not a good combination.>>
After I saw it I told him that it was soon to die.
<<Not an exaggeration on your part.>>
He asked me to take it home to see if I could nurture it back to health, I
reluctantly accepted knowing that his 2 CF bulbs over a 30g breeder was not
enough for
it in this state.
<<Judging by your desire description it will be difficult to save this specimen
even in ideal settings…..healthy specimens have difficulty adapting to captive
life for that matter.>>
With that said, it is really not doing well at all and I would like to know if
there is any chance of survival at this point, and what is the best
route.
<<See here;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm
.>>
My tank, 72g with 30g sump growing Chaeto, also live rock chamber and
protein skimmer. Lighting is 2x250w MH 14k's, 4x54w T5's 2 10k 2 actinic.
<<Is there a lot of surface area? Other Cnidarian life?>>
I have had experience in keeping anemones before and currently have two
larger RBTAs, I have also cared for three previous bleached BTAs with much
success. But this specimen is new to me and more than that it is looking really
bad.
<<And if those other anemones are in the same system, they are all in danger, if
the Sebae is in such bad health I would not risk the health of your other
specimens.>>
So on with the anemone, when I put it in the tank three days ago it did not want
to attach, but at the same time it did not attach for the entire time
my buddy had it.
<<Not a good sign.>>
So I put it in a spot with somewhat minimal flow as to not let it get blown
around and it also had a little bit of shade. Well he found his way to the
middle of an open spot of sand near the glass over the next couple of hours and
buried his foot. I thought this to be a good sign. He also eat fairly well the
first night and a few hours later looked like he
was disgorging the waste. I then woke up this morning to him with his mouth
almost completely inverted!
expelling possible organs. There is no whole you can see straight through but
this is obviously not good. In almost ten hours it has not gone down at
all or closed at all. I have attached a picture to help. Just looking to see if
there is any hope?
<<Well hope is an abstract idea I don’t completely understand so I’ll talk
logic. Statistically speaking you aren’t looking at a successful arrangement. As
cold as it may seem you may want to remove the Sebae before you place your other
livestock at harm. I would say your first responsibility is to the animals which
have the best chance at survival, don’t compromise their health. Give the above
link to your friend as well. Good luck, Adam J.>>
New Sebae
Anemone, Inadequate Environment, More Research Needed – 3/19/08
Dear WWM Crew,
Good day to all.
<Hello Shanon, Brenda here!>
I am in a bit of a dilemma. I set up my system, through a local dealer,
with the intentions of having a bubble tip anemone, a clownfish and
other soft (possibly hard) corals. My system was set up with cured LR a
2 in. sand bed (some live sand) and left to cycle, after 1 week 2 blue
damsels were placed in the system and my water tested regularly by the
LFS.
<Get in the habit of testing water parameters yourself.>
After 6 weeks I began to add some mushrooms, zoo's and a maroon gl
clown. When the system was 4 months old the bubble tip was added which
continually wandered the tank. I discussed this with the salesman and he
said this is common, that it hasn't found a spot where it is happy, but
this should improve.
<A 4 month old tank is much too young for an anemone.>
It didn't, and I lost the bubble tip after about a month. I had been
doing some research on the web, but I figured that it was a problem with
that particular specimen.
<The E. quadricolor (BTA), is the easiest to keep out of all the hosting
anemones. >
Several days ago I purchased a Sebae anemone (which seemed, to me, in
excellent health), it also is faring poorly, shriveled with mouth gaping
open.
<Based on the pictures, I do not consider the mouth to be gaping open.
Shriveling up is common with acclimation and expelling waste. What are
you feeding? >
I was told this was an African Sebae Anemone, does this exist?.
<No. However, I have seen this term used. It is best to use the
scientific name. >
I began doing some intense research and have quickly realized that a
salt water system is MUCH more complex than I realized. I have gone
through each likely problem with the Anemone (through research on your
site) and have corrected minor problems. The most significant problem I
found is the lighting (and possibly protein skimmer), which I think is
extremely low. This dealer is the only local dealer. I traveled to
Indianapolis and visited several dealers,
<Have you visited Premium Aquatics? See here:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com >
only to be blessed with more confusion (I was told that actinic lighting
is the lighting source I need.
<Actinic alone is not adequate.>
Another said that PC is the best lighting.
<Yikes! >
All seemed confused when I mentioned metal halides.
<Metal Halide or T-5 with individual reflectors is the best way to go
with this anemone. However, a 16 gallon is much too small for an
anemone. It will not do well in its current environment.>
I have spent much time researching the lighting, it is very complex and
time consuming.
<Yes. >
I fear the Sebae Anemone does not have the time.
<I agree. >
My system, as I understand it. Please excuse my lack of proper
terminology and my ignorance of relevant information.....it is rapidly
improving.
16 gallon,
<Much too small for an anemone.>
7 months old
15 lb LR
2 in. sand bed
Salinity 1.22
<Do you mean 1.022? It needs to be brought up slowly to 1.026. How are
you testing this?>
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrates 0
Calcium 540
<High>
pH ?
<Knowing your pH is very important. >
alkalinity ?
phosphates .7
<This is too high, see here:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm >
Temp 78
Lighting Current-USA model #1136-18" Nova Extreme 1 18watt T5 HO 10K/ 1
18 watt T5 HO 460nm actinic (no timer, not sure of proper cycle)
<This is not enough light for this anemone. Typical light cycle is 10-12
hours (assuming you have appropriate lighting).>
Marineland Maxi-Jet 900 power head for water flow
<Powerheads do not belong in tanks with anemones.>
I have no protein skimmer, I was told with this size tank I could use a
standard, hang on filtration (came with tank) .....(please advise if you
differ in opinion and what brand, model you recommend).
<I personally do not recommend any tank that is an all in one for
anemones. A protein skimmer is a very beneficial piece of equipment. >
Stock:
1 maroon clownfish, 1 Sebae anemone, 1 Ricordea mushroom, 1 pulsing
xenia, 2 zoos, 1 flaming scallop (am now aware of the issues) and some
snails and crabs.
<Crabs can be predators. If you must keep them, keep no more than 1 per
10 gallons. >
All is well (though possibly not exceptional) except the anemone. Please
advise on crowding/incompatibility issues. I hope to establish this tank
and eventually upgrade to a larger system (possibly turning this tank
into a breed specific (seahorse) tank. I would appreciate an answer as
to how I can rectify the lighting issue (including brand, model) (as
well as other issues I may not be aware of). Are larger wattage bulbs
available for this model?
<No.>
If not, what are my other alternatives?
<Returning the anemone until you can provide it with an adequate
environment, and lots of research.>
Unfortunately, though I absolutely love this hobby, money is an issue.
<This is an expensive hobby. >
I have already invested much more than originally anticipated, very
possibly, on equipment useless to my cause.
<Research before you purchase.>
I want to pursue this hobby, but possibly with other alternatives. The
beauty of the symbiotic relationship between a clown and its host is
unsurpassable.
<Yes. However, they are considered “difficult” to keep. Many rush into
keeping an anemone, resulting in the death of the anemone. >
My maroon clown is doing well. I have seen clowns host in a (what I was
told was) toad stool. Would the toad stool flourish with my current
lighting?
<Yes.>
Would my maroon gl clown accept it as a host?
<Possibly. There is never a guarantee that a clownfish will host in
captivity. >
Thanks in advance,
Shanon
<You’re Welcome! >
p.s. I do believe the information from the dealer was presented with the
absolute best of intentions.
<Very possible! I have found that most sales people are not
knowledgeable enough in anemone care. >
In comparison to the other dealers I visited, I would rank my local
dealer the highest. I think this is an industry with less than specific
standards. I am still left, at this moment, with this unsettling issue.
<Return the anemone and continue researching. Brenda>
Re: New Sebae
Anemone, Inadequate Environment, More Research Needed – 3/20/08
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Shanon!>
Thank you for your response!
<You’re welcome!>
I'm sad to hear my tank is too small for the anemone. My LFS has a tank
that is yet smaller (maybe 10-12 gallon) which has a large bubble tip
and a maroon clown.
<Minimum tank size recommendation for this fish is 30 gallons.>
The bubble tip appears healthy.
<It won’t stay healthy long term and this is a poor representation of
how to care for these animals.>
Will you please tell me the reasons why the anemone requires a larger
tank (not to question your knowledge, but for my understanding) and what
size tank would be suitable?
<Anemones need pristine water conditions. The chances of this happening
in a 16 gallon tank are slim. With a larger volume of water, the water
quality decreases at a slower rate. Add the fact that you don’t have a
protein skimmer, the chances of survival have decreased even more.
Ammonia is extremely toxic to anemones. When an anemone dies in a tank,
it pollutes the water quickly. A dead anemone can wipe out even a much
larger system. In a 16 gallon system, you will likely end up with
nothing. Anemones also grow quickly. They can reach 18” or more. When
they have outgrown their space, they move to find a more suitable place.
There isn’t going to be any space available to move to in your current
system. This will cause stress on the anemone. Stress causes death. I
recommend 40 – 50 gallons of water volume, or more, for anyone new to
keeping anemones. I also recommend the tank be an established
environment.>
I am feeding krill to the anemone twice weekly, though he rejects it
about an hour later.
<Try smaller pieces until you can find the anemone a new home (1/8”
sized portions).>
I also feed Marine Snow twice weekly and Mysis shrimp every other day
for the clown fish.
<Mysis shrimp is also a good choice for the anemone. Marine Snow is
useless for anemones. Anemones need raw meaty foods, no exceptions
here.>
I did mean salinity 1.022.
<This is much too low for anemones; 1.026 is best.>
I test it with a hydrometer (is this adequate?).
<I don’t recommend using hydrometers. A refractometer is more accurate.>
The hydrometer says that 1.026 is out of the safe range.
<1.026 is closer to normal salinity of the ocean.>
I guess I need a lot more information to understand how the system
works.
<Keep researching. You will find many answers to your questions here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
also read through all the Related FAQs at the top of the above link.>
If not power heads then what should be used for water flow?
<Pumps need to be outside of the main display. I recommend a
sump/refugium. Either will add more water volume. A refugium will allow
you to grow macro algae. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
>
I thought I needed the hermit crabs to clean the tank and keep nitrates
down, is that wrong?
<It is not “wrong”. However it is not the best option in such a small
tank. I do keep hermit crabs. However mine are kept in the refugium.
crabs are opportunistic feeders. They are known to kill small sleeping
fish, eat polyps, snails, and bother anemones. >
I believe the toad stool is the way to go for now. I would still like
optimum lighting. I have not been able to find better lighting to fit my
18 inch tank width. Do you have a suggestion?
<Check with the manufacturer or the place you purchased the set up to
see if they offer a lighting upgrade. However, be careful that you don’t
add too much that you have heat issues.>
Thank you for the info on the chemistry.
<You’re welcome!>
I will start doing my own tests immediately.
<Great!>
I will be sad to see the anemone go but I think the toad stool is a good
solution until I get a better understanding of my system and upgrade to
a larger tank.
<Indeed.>
Best regards, Shanon
<Good luck to you Shanon! Brenda> |
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Bleached Sebae Anemone, Zooxanthellae – 3/14/08
<Hello Harold, Brenda here!>
I am hoping you can answer a question about a new Sebae anemone I purchased one
week ago.
<I’ll try.>
The Sebae was pure white with blue tips and from what I have been reading a
white Sebae is not a healthy Sebae due to the depletion of the needed
zooxanthellae. YIPES!
<You are correct.>
My tank is 120g (48x30x24) with 760W Metal Halide's. The Water parameters are:
NO2 = 0 ppm Ammonia = 0ppm NO3 = 0 ppm PH = 8.2 Alkalinity = 300ppm
<What is your salinity and temperature?>
So, I believe I have enough lighting and suitable water parameters but the Sebae
continues to slip onto its side. I have a mated pair of true Percula clowns that
have "bonded" with the anemone and it would break my heart to think that it may
not make it...
<It is best to keep the clownfish away from this anemone.>
The anemone is currently residing on the bottom of the tank next to live rock.
Should I move it to the top of the live rock or should I just leave it alone?
<Leave it alone.>
I fed it Formula 1 today and it took in a portion of the cube but the remainder
was ate by the clowns.
<It is good to hear the anemone is eating.>
What are some suggestions you can make to help me save my newest addition or am
I overreacting?
<You are not over reacting. A picture would help me a lot here. I do suggest
feeding Silversides soaked in Selcon. I would feed very tiny pieces daily for
now. Can you move the clownfish to another tank for a while?>
Thank you so much for your time and attention.
Harold
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Bleached Sebae
Anemone, Zooxanthellae... no referral... - 3/15/08
Thank you Brenda for your help!
<You are welcome!>
I picked up some Silversides soaked a piece in Selcon and fed it to the
Anemone this afternoon.
<Excellent!>
The Sebae ate the piece of Silverside but continued to leave his mouth
open and then "pucker up" for about two hours.
<I would not be overly alarmed with this.>
(I've been a "worry wart" so I continued to watch it....)
<I understand, I was once new to anemones also! I learned a lot,
quickly! However, I do recommend doing as much research as you can. Also
continue sending in your specific questions to us.>
The Salinity is 1.022
<Your salinity is much too low! Gradually bring up to 1.026. Do this by
topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater mixed to 1.026. Once you have
reached 1.026, go back to topping off with RO or RODI. I must stress
here, this must be done slowly. It will take days. Anemones do not like
change. Changing any parameters too fast will add more stress, likely
resulting in death with this one.>
and the temp is 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
<Perfect!>
I've included pictures taken during my 2 hour watch.
<Yes, I see them. The anemone is not healthy, but does have hope! I do
have some concern over the shrimp that is in the picture. Is it
bothering the anemone? They have a tendency to steal food from them,
several hours after the feeding.>
Thank you again for your guidance!
<You are welcome! If you run into any more problems/questions, don’t
hesitate to ask! I’m keeping my fingers crossed for you both! Brenda>
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<... RMF> |
Unhealthy White Sebae
Anemone, Expelled Zooxanthellae – 2/20/08
Hello,
<Hello Josh!>
I am new to marine fish keeping (4 1/2 months) and have gotten my water quality
to the point where I can now house corals in my tank. I have just a small 24
gallon nano-cube, 35 lbs live rock, 30 lbs live sand, protein skimmer, power
compacts for lighting. Livestock: Percula clown, possum wrasse, coral beauty,
and a brand new diamond watchman goby (to keep my sand looking nice and fresh).
My fish are all rather small and don't seem to make much of an impact on my
water quality since I perform water changes religiously.
<Great!>
My problem is that I recently purchased an all-white Sebae anemone.
<Yikes!>
He looked brilliant in the store, but shortly after I acclimated him to the tank
(24-48hrs) he began to shrivel up, and has stayed that way for two days now...
is he doing this because he is unhealthy or is he just possibly still adjusting
to the water in my tank?
<This anemone was unhealthy when you purchased it. A white anemone is an
unhealthy anemone. When they are white, they have expelled their zooxanthellae.
Zooxanthellae is an algae that lives inside them and is needed for their long
term survival.>
I took a sample of water to the store before I purchased the anemone, and the
clerk told me that my water quality was better than any of the tanks in the
store. If he is unhealthy and starting to die, when should I get him out of the
tank?
<I would return the anemone to the place you purchased it or find someone local
that is experienced with the recovery of anemones. A 4 month old, 24 gallon tank
with PC lighting is not adequate for this anemone.>
I have a business trip coming up in a few days where I will be away for almost a
week... I really do not want to come home to disaster in my aquarium. My
girlfriend can check on the tank while I am gone but she is not familiar with
this at all...
<Its time to find it a new home now. This anemone is going to continue to
deteriorate in its current environment.>
Thank you so much for your help.
Josh
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re: Unhealthy White Sebae
Anemone, Expelled Zooxanthellae – 2/20/08
Thank You for the advice Brenda,
<You’re welcome!>
I just returned from the store where I purchased it. They are willing to let me
bring the anemone in and keep it for me until I return from my business trip. I
purchased a very healthy looking bubble coral today that should take its place
nicely... If I return from the trip and the anemone is looking healthy again,
would it be a poor decision to bring it back home?
<This anemone will not be healthy again any time soon. Recovering a bleached
anemone takes months, and a lot of dedication. I don’t recommend it.>
Thanks again! Josh
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
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Health of Sebae
Partial Zooxanthellae Recovery – 2/2/08
Keep up the great work on this site guys!
<Hello, Brenda here, and Thank you!>
Anywho, to the question.
<Okay!>
I got this Sebae when he was completely bleached.
<Ouch!>
Mail order, not a good idea.
<Not always the best! Shipping is very stressful. However, this anemone
may have been bleached before it was shipped. We unfortunately will
never know the journey of this anemone.>
Anyways, most of his tentacles are a deep brown. The pictures do not do
his color justice, but the only part of him that hasn't turned into a
light brown is in the left side of the second picture I believe.
<Yes, I see this. This is a bit unusual. How long has this anemone been
in your care? Typically when I see this sort of color pattern in
anemones like this, I have to consider that this anemone may have
previously been dyed. However, I am not convinced that this is the case
here. If you would be so kind, I would like to see regular updates on
this anemones progress.>
Will he turn into a deeper brown then this, or is this as dark as he
will get in a home aquarium?
<It does appear to have some color, so I do believe zooxanthellae are
recovering in this area. What are you feeding? How often and what sized
portions? What are your water parameters, specifically, temperature,
salinity, pH, and alkalinity? What size tank, and what lighting are you
using? How long has this tank been set up?>
Thanks a bunch!
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Re:
Health of Sebae,
Partial Zooxanthellae Recovery –
2/7/08
I usually switch feedings of frozen mysis, plankton, prime reef,
mega marine and formula one.
<I would stop using any food that contains algae. Anemones are meat
eaters. Mysis shrimp, Silversides, Krill, Lance Fish etc. are good
choices.>
I usually feed the tank 1-2 times per week. The anemone gets a piece
about half the size of his mouth.
<Good!>
Temperature is 77-79, salinity is at 1.024(I've been raising very slowly
to .026 for awhile now).
<I recommend bringing the temperature up a bit. I would target 79 – 80
degrees.>
pH is almost always steady at 8.2, and alkalinity is at 10 dKH. It is a
30g tank, with 250w MH. The tank has been set up almost 10 months now.
The Sebae has been in there for about 2. I think that is about it!
<It sounds like it has come a long ways in two months! Great job!
Brenda> |
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Sebae
Anemone, Possibly Regurgitating, Stressed from Collection/Shipping –
01/21/08
Hello.
<Hello Pam, Brenda here!>
I bought a Sebae Anemone about 3 weeks ago. I didn't realize it when I
bought him, but when I bought him, he was bleached. (see attached
picture). I didn't realize they are supposed to be tan or brown. He has
been doing very well. He settled right into the spot where I put him in
my tank. He's very tacky. He seems to be eating. I have him on the sand
bed, and he has butted himself against the wall of my rock structure. He
hasn't budged from this spot since I put him there 3 weeks ago. I have
150w Metal Halide and 4 24w t5's.
<What size tank? How long has the tank been set up?>
10 days after I brought him home, my Percula started hosting in him.
That was about a week ago, and the Anemone has been doing fine. I left
for work this morning, and the Sebae looked beautiful. My 15 year old
son just called me and told me something was wrong with him and it was
freaky looking (my son rarely glances at the tank, so something has to
be really wrong). He said something really big is coming out of his
mouth... big as in a couple inches. Could he be expelling his stomach?
<It sounds like it is expelling waste, or has regurgitated. What are you
feeding, how often and what sized portions? What other livestock do you
have in the tank?>
My son tried to take a picture on his cell phone to send to me, but I
couldn't make out anything in the picture. I will get out of work as
soon as I can and run home, but I'm an hour away. Is there anything I
can do for this Sebae if it's his stomach? I can send a picture later.
If it's his stomach...does that mean he's dying?
<It may be stressed from wild collection and shipping. This is often
times deadly to anemones. Providing an adequate environment and time is
all you can do for it.>
My son said the rest of the Anemone looks ok, just something coming out
of the mouth and the clown is still hosting it.
Parameters: Salinity 1.026 PH: 8.3 Alk: 8 dKH Nitrites, Nitrates and
Ammonia all zero. Phosphates: between 0 and .1 Calcium 390 Magnesium
1170, Temperature 80 degrees, Flow: 25x display.
Thanks, Pam
<Hope this helps! Brenda>
Re: Sebae Anemone, Possibly
Regurgitating, Stressed from Collection/Shipping – 01/21/08
Hi Brenda
<Hello Pam!>
Oh my goodness! This is so funny. I came home, and the Anemone had moved
into a cave. I looked at him, and he looked fine except that he had
moved (strange because he hadn't moved in 2 weeks since I put him into
my tank). I asked my son, if maybe the Anemone was upside down, and he
was looking at his foot. My son said..."OH...yea...that's it.. I didn't
know they had a foot". He must have flipped upside down, then flipped
himself and moved into the cave, or the current took him in there. He
wasn't expelling anything at all and looks fine!! Yay!
I don't know if I should have left him in the cave or not, but I moved
him back to his regular spot.
<Unfortunately, when an anemone of this type starts flipping itself
upside down, it is usually bad news.>
Now if the darn clown would stop stealing his food! It's not that the
clown is eating it...he's just kicking it out. I stood guard for a
while, but as soon as I took my arm out of the tank, the clown went and
dug out the small piece of silverside I had put in. I thought he was
trying to eat it, but he isn't. He just threw it away.
<Try placing a strawberry basket that you find at the grocery store over
the anemone until it is able to eat. Since your anemone is stressed,
feed small portions daily. I would start by trying a 1/8” piece once a
day. Gradually increase the size, but never feed anything larger than
its mouth. Once the anemone has recovered, you can feed 2 – 3 times a
week. I would suggest using silversides, krill, or mysis shrimp. Stay
away from brine shrimp, it is not nutritional enough for anemones.>
So anyway, the Anemone is fine. It isn't regurgitating anything. He had
just flipped himself upside down....or the current did. Thanks! Pam
<You’re welcome and good luck to you! Brenda>
Thank you Brenda.
<You’re welcome!>
The strawberry basket is a great idea. I'll give that a try. I have been
cutting up the Silverside and only feeding it about 1/8 of a whole
silverside.
<Try a 1/8 inch piece. You don’t want to stress the anemone any more
than collection and shipping has already caused.>
I also bought some krill. He deflated SO much last night several hours
after I got home, and I thought oh, this isn't good at all.
<It does not sound good.>
He was probably only a 10th of his normal size. Woke up this morning,
and he was nice and inflated again. I have a feeling it's going to be
touch and go for a while, but I am determined to be patient and nurse
him back to complete health. Have a great day.
<You too!>
Pam
<Good luck to you Pam! Brenda> |
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Sebae Anemone
Failing Quickly, Inadequate Environment... Brenda... refer – 1/5/08
Hi,
<Hello, Brenda here!>
I really need your help. My tank has been running for three months. I
have a 55 gal. w/approx 60 lbs live rock, 1 blue tang, 1 clown, 3
damsels, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 2 peppermint shrimps,
7 Ricordea, mushrooms, and 1 hammer. We do weekly water changes of 7
gallons at a time. My problem is my Sebae who is deflated and has a
white liquid coming from the bottom and what appears to be a fleshy
tissue that almost looks like cotton.
<Yikes! Your tank is not ready for an anemone. Anemones need an
established environment, 6 months to one year minimum. How long has this
anemone been in your tank? What are your exact water parameters,
including temperature, salinity, pH, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia,
calcium, and alkalinity? I need to know what equipment you have on the
tank, including your lighting, skimmer, amount of flow, etc.>
He had been eating fine up to 2 days ago when he began to not take the
food in. He has been eating krill because that is what they were feeding
him at the store that we purchased him from and since he didn't accept
that we tried brine and Mysis shrimp and also plankton.
<Brine shrimp is not an appropriate food for anemones, unless it is
newly hatched brine shrimp.>
Nothing worked until last night when he did take in 2 pieces of krill.
<This is too much food for one feeding. With unhealthy anemones, I
recommend food portions to be about 1/8” in size (or less). Over feeding
can cause regurgitation, leaving the anemone with no food.>
Today he looks awful almost a grayish color. I have sent a few pics of
before and after and I just don't know what to do with the little guy.
If you could help me I would be eternally grateful. We are new to this
and your web site has been a huge help in problem solving.
<Unfortunately, your anemone is in very poor health. It is best to
return it to the place you got it, or find someone with an adequate
environment, that is experienced in the recovery of anemones. I also
suggest you research all of your livestock before you purchase. More
information on anemones can be found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
I also recommend reading through the FAQs.>
I appreciate all that you do for us out here! Keep up the knowledge
because we need you! Thank you again!
<You’re welcome! Brenda> |
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