SebaeAnDisF3

FAQs on Sebae, Heteractis crispa Anemone Health/Disease 3

FAQs on Sebae Anemone Disease: Sebae Disease 1, Sebae Anemone Health 2,
FAQs on Sebae Anemone Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments

Related Articles: Heteractis crispa/Sebae Anemones, Bubble Tip Anemones, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones,

New Print and eBook on Amazon:

Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Sebae Health 2/3/16
Ok have a 220 reef I have had this set up since 10-07-15. 1 Sebae which has thrived up until lately.
<Clown, anemone?>
A couple of months ago I introduced a rose bubble tip which within 30 days split. The sisters are doing great. So is a large Toadstool coral a few very small stony's way up in the rock work, some Zoos,
<The Sarcophyton and Zoanthids don't play well w/ other Cnidarian groups. >
IF there is some sort of physical, chemical challenge in the system there could be real trouble here>
feather dusters and 13 small fish, 300lbs of live rock, 40 gallon sump/refugium and 3 Kessil 360 W lights. Water parameters are great. Run big Skimmer plenty of flow with double overflows and Tunze Wave Box.
The Sebae a bout 3 weeks ago started to get smaller at times
<Oh, so, Heteractis crispa>
so I started feeding a couple of times a week with Silversides
>See WWM re feeding this species<
only about the size of the mouth. Fed the bubbles at same time too and they look great but the Sebae wants to sometimes completely shrink up and go into the sand briefly which never worried me but it seems to be more inflated in the morning and evening hours or in darkness. At peak lighting times it's smaller and not extended as much. It does host an anemone crab
but has for 90 days at least. It is about 22 inches from a bubble tip and maybe 10 inches from the Toadstool coral which is very healthy.
I do water changes about every 3-4 weeks and do 3+ gallons.
<What volume is this?>
Everything looks great except the Sebae not as prolific as it should although color is very fine so I now it can't be the lights and it is not moving at all maybe 5 inches on a lateral move over 3 months but never came up out of the sand just got more focused under the light I think.
<Please, please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SebAnemDisDiagF.htm and the linked files above....>
I figure maybe not thriving due to chemical warfare or maybe I should back off the feedings.
<You should READ>
Comments? I know I pushed the envelope on the cycling but took it very easy on the bio-load with tons of live rock sand seeding and skimming nothing was stressed. The Sebae and 2 banded corals went in at 30 days after setup and never showed signs of stress
Thanks in advance
Mike Murphy
<Enjoy the reading. Write back w/ specific questions, concerns (should you have them), after. Bob Fenner>
RE: Sebae Health 2/3/16
Sorry meant to say 30+ gallons on water change
<Ah; that makes more sense. B>
Re: Sebae Health... more incompatible tankmates 2/5/16
OK. I've already read all of the suggested reading prior to posting.
<//// ? then why are you feeding silversides? Go back and re-read>
The only thing I have not tried is force feeding the Crispa with a dropper and vitamin soaked mysis shrimp as a treat as it has been accepting silversides all along.

Coloration is still very good but during day at peak lighting times it is shrunken and tentacles are deflated somewhat until my LED controller starts o diminish intensity around 4-4:30 pm. At this time the tentacles tend to inflate more and more so into the darkness hours. The oral disc remains normal I appearance and it is still buried well in the sand. If these new Kessil 360's can keep stony corals and the other soft corals and anemones in good health they should do the same for this specimen.
<Agreed>
I have a well-established 55 gallon with live rock, led's macro algae and a pair of Maroon clowns that I am contemplating moving the crispa to in hopes that no other Cnidarians will be there to wage any chemical war fare and will recover.
<Good>
It has been thriving for 3 months until now and nothing in the water parameters are out of line and all other specimens are fine i.e.. 2 bubble tip, toadstool , Torch coral, 2 small carpet anemones
<!? NOT compatible. SEE/READ on WWM re>
and a small rock anemone so maybe someone is not playing well .
I did clean my skimmer out as the fractionizing tube was dirty and it was not effective but with all the macro and live rock for the short period of time should not have hurt anything as even when at 100% it does not take a heavy amount of wastes out.
Maybe I should give him another 24 before moving?
<I'd move it stat! Bob Fenner>
RE: Sebae Health 2/5/16
On the silversides issue maybe I'm missing something? I see several recommendations that is a good source only maybe soaked in Selcon.
<...."ideal foods are very finely minced meaty foods of marine origin Mysids, shrimp, krill, etc. Please do research more about this anemone in the FAQs and articles on this our site www.wetwebmedia.com">
I did start using RO water from a filtration system I purchased and the
last 2 water changes have been using that and also same for top of water
which would coincide with the timeline of this slow decline but when
everything else is healthy as can be I keep coming back to ware fare issues
between specimens.

Torn sebae anemone 6/17/15
Dear WWM
I don't hold out much hope but I must try everything before I give up on anything in my tank!
<Our values are confluent>
I have had a sebae anemone in my 100 gal mixed reef for about 4 months. We upgraded from a 30 gal, (4 yrs old at time of transfer) transferred everything over and then about 10 months later added the anemone. Appeared very healthy at time of purchase and remained so until 2 days ago when it began moving from its spot. It got torn I believe on a colony of tube worms, sharp little suckers. Once I saw the tear, I placed it in the PVC hoping to avoid more damage. Can he recover from this?
<Mmm; yes; IF conditions are optimal and stable>
His mouth also looks kind of like the tear, like guts. Just checked parameters. PH 8.1, salinity 1.025, temp 80°, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20ppm ( been dosing red sea NO3 PO4to help)
<Good>
phosphates on API test are more than 0 but not as dark as .25, which is the first color reading. KH is 13, CA 480, Mag is 1480. We have LED lights, run Aqua C urchin skimmer, use a PolyFilter. No carbon. Did I forget to mention anything?
<Not of usually discussed parameters; no>
Any recommendations for this poor anemone?
<To keep on as you're doing>
The picture of him healthy was taken only a month ago and he looked like that up until this incident. My camera isn't great but it was more than it appears.
Sincerely, Melissa
<Patience; and perhaps a little iodide-ate. Bob Fenner>

confused ... id please ..sabea anemone?? 12/18/14
Hi, pls confirm whether this is sebea anemone..??
<It is a dyed yellow Heteractis crispa; indeed; dying>
Also let me know whether
it is dyed..?? Feeling sick to know it may be dyed from some online sources.. Please help..
<Help yourself. READ on WWM re the species; DON'T send us 8 megs of pix....
READ here; my piece on this scam: http://wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: confused ... id please ..sebae anemone?? 12/19/14
Thanks Mr. Bob for quick reply,
<Welcome Anupa>
my god, didn't know they dye corals.. wonder how to find its natural colour or dye one.. had no clue when looked at it in LFS. Sorry for the pic size. will take care of the pic size next time on..
<Good>
Dying?? :( hope it have some chance of recovery?
<Small; not much>
any advice or care recommendation..
<The reading>
thought new to hobby, but will try my best to take care of these animals.. its a mistake i bought it in first place, have to blame my ignorance and impulse purchase..
Thanks again..
<And the false perceptions of the folks involved in making these animals, offering them thus. BobF>

dying Sebae anemone?
Hello,
<Howsit?>
I have been reading your site and am impressed. I have a Sebae Anemone that has not attached for the month it's been here, and I think it is dying. I am looking for advice. It looked like it was starting to fall apart so I took it out, but if it has a chance I'd like to try saving it before it's too late. Also, if it is hopeless, should I euthanize it?
<... can't tell w/o more data... a pic perhaps? If it's falling apart I'd flush it. Bob Fenner>
Please Help!
Rena
Re: dying Sebae anemone?
So sorry, I had meant to include this photo. Thank you for getting back to me.
<.... this Heteractis crispa is gone>
I did smell it and it doesn't smell particularly foul yet, just sort of saltwater-aquarium-y. I checked my water parameters and the ammonia is a bit off at .25. I put some Amquel in. Nitrates are at 40 ppm.
<... you're joking>
I am ashamed to say that it is in a 5 gallon tank that is very new with one Dottyback and a few small turbo snails. I know it is too small and young a tank, but I am afraid to put in my 75 gallon where it might die and kill my other fish. Besides, the 75 was just upgraded two months ago from a 6 month old 20 gallon. So, I know I should have taken it back to LFS and may still try if they would take it.
<Should have never purchased in the first place. BobF>
Best regards,
Rena

Purple mushroom problem... Just reading, using WWM 8/31/14
About 2 days ago I purchased a Sebae Anemone. He looked like he was doing well. He was not bleached, his mouth was closed tight, and he was opened up well. I ordered him through a friend who own a pet store who also has a passion for salt water. However my friend has no experience with reef set-ups only fish so he's not much help. Anyways, the anemone refused to eat. (Brine shrimp, dived silversides)
<These are poor choices. See/read the archived FAQs on WWM re Heteractis crispa foods/feeding/nutrition>
and if he did eat a little he would flip over
<Very bad>
onto his mouth and expel it. He hadn't attached to a rock yet.
<Also>
Soon his mouth was gaping and eventually today I noticed he was disintegrating so I took him out immediately and did about a 40% water change
<Good move... I'd add carbon...>
to try to remove any toxins that may harm my tank. During this whole process of trying to acclimate my anemone I noticed my corals, (that are still mostly frags) were stressed.
<Oh yes; poor choice of tankmates... See Actinarian Compatibility on WWM as well>
They would not open up. My mushroom even expelled his indides for mabey 3 minutes after the water change. I just
want to know if my reef is going to be ok. My wife just went out to buy a fake sebae for the clowns to live in until I am more comfortable trying a real one again. Advice?
<Keep reading; learn to use WWM. Bob Fenner>
re: Purple mushroom problem
Hey thanks. Good info, I really appreciate it.
<Welcome>

Sebae Anemone problems (H. crispa),,, starved chemically 8/7/14
Hello,
We have a 120 gallon saltwater setup that is almost 8 months old. We are having some problems with our anemone and was hoping to get your advice. I have poured over your website reading every FAQ related to Feeding, Diseases, lighting and almost every other category but have not found a similar issue (You have a great website with loads of information, a must for anybody in the hobby). We got a large anemone (about 12-14 inches when fully open) along with two clownfish that host it about a month and 1/2 ago from a colleague who was breaking down his tank. All three were drip acclimated for 2 hours and then introduced into the tank. They acclimated well, the anemone didn't move around much and just attached itself to a rock close to where we placed it. The anemone and fish looked great 3-4 days later. The anemone was a light brown/beige color and was doing very well until last week. It will shrivel up when the lights are turned on.
<Mmm; what sort of lighting here? Have you measured PAR, PUR near where the Heteractis is?>
It looks normal without the lights (i.e. deflated but large) but once the lights are turned on, about an hour later it has shriveled up to about 3 inches (and looks green in color). Its mouth is closed, it is attached to
the same rock that it first settled in with and feeds fine. We feed it frozen Mysis shrimp everyday (about 5-6 pieces). It expels a dark brown (almost black) gooey substance once almost everyday.
<Not good>
Below are the tank details - 120 Gallon w/t 55 gallon sump Skimmer, 2 powerheads (approx 4000 gph), 2 120 W LED full spectrum lighting (this is the exact light http://www.oceanrevivellc.com/goods.php?id=19 )

80 pounds of live rock, 60 pounds of sand Livestock - 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 3 Chromis, 2 Clownfish (1 percula, 1 ocellaris), 1 sebae anemone, 10 hermit crabs, 30 snails (a variety of them)
Parameters - Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate - 0 Phosphates - 0PH
<Ahh; here is at least some source of trouble... Actinarians are chemo/autotrophic... need HPO4 (and NO3...)>
- 8.4Salinity - 1.025Temperature - 79-80 F
We run the LED lights @ 50% (Blues & Whites) and for 8 hours everyday.
I have attached pictures of the anemone before this problem and pictures of it now. The first picture (RF_Jul25_2.jpg) is how it looked a week ago. The second picture (photo 1(1).jpg) was taken today without the lights on. The third picture is after the lights were turned on.
Appreciate any advice you can give us. Do let us know if you need any more information.
Thank you very much, Vidya
<This animal is at least being mal-affected by a lack of soluble phosphate, being driven photosynthetically sans absolutely necessary chemical nutrient/s... Whatever means you're employing to render [HPO4] zero, you need to remove/turn off. Feeding of your other livestock will/would highly likely provide sufficient N,P,K... but for now you might consider supplementing.
Do read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/AnemNutrDisF.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Sebae Anemone problems (H. crispa) 8/8/14
Thank you so much for your response, Bob. We are not using anything to remove the HPO4 specifically as such, only run activated carbon.
<Good quality, quantity of GAC will do this/it... I'd remove about half and increase feeding, targeting the anemone w/ a baster and small, meaty food items>
We also have a fuge with some Chaeto in it.
<Will remove HPO4 as well; and a good to great way to do it>
I'll include Cyclops along with Selcon in the anemone's diet.
<Good>
Do you think increasing the feedings from once a day to two small feedings a day would help increase the nutrients in the tank ?
<Yes I do>
Also, I was looking at the Brightwell replenish product,
<http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/replenish.php ... A trace element replacement product. I'd use a vitamin and this one... SeaChem's "Vitality" will get you both these>
would this help for the purpose ? We do a 10% water change weekly.
Thanks and appreciate your help, Vidya
<Ah, welcome. BobF>
Re: Sebae Anemone problems (H. crispa) 8/8/14
Thank you so much, Bob. I'll get to these right away. I want to do anything/everything it takes to get the anemone back (have my fingers crossed!).

Sabae anemone, bleached 4/12/14
Your website is very informative! I realize I should check on here before making any future purchases to avoid preventable mistake. From what I've googled, this is a crispa anemone. Water salinity and ph, nitrates, are all perfect.
<Oh... perfect>
Just got this anemone and it is quite content here....has been here since I purchased it two days ago, my clown love it (close to death). However, it
is not attached by it's foot? The foot is fully inflated, but just hanging (not attached to anything). You can see that it is attached to the rock
though by the underside of its tenacles?
<... not really; no>
I don't see any damage to his foot (and I realize from reading your site that I shouldn't have purchased a white one now). Is this normal for it
not to attach to something with its foot?
<... this specimen is badly bleached... not likely to live. Bob Fenner>

Re: coral fluorescence - Thank you... H. crispa hlth., comp. 4/30/13
Thank you both for responding to me. I read a little bit each day on a myriad of subjects. Everyone here has an amazing amount of knowledge. One last question if I may (or two, or three... ). I have seen some amazing pictures online of Sebaes brought back from the brink. I cannot tell however if the green sheen mine has means it will be green once Zooxanthellae return.
<Usually "the sheen" is telling. Many anemones begin or re-begin brownish from white... but can/do reincorporate Zooxanthellae that are capable of adopting pigments of a few hues>
Also assuming I do well with this one, I will likely want a couple others of differing color. Some say that because it is not a clone they will fight but others just say not to mix species.
<Best not to; or to take a long time (months) approach of housing separately, mixing water between systems to acclimate them to each other>
I would think that the chemicals given off by two corals or anemones of the same species would be the same.
<Mmm, no; not the case... each individual, as with humans, have a distinct chemical signature>
Wouldn't they be immune then to each other's allelopathic chemicals and or stings?
<They are not unfortunately. Some species are FAR more dominant than others. Bob Fenner>

Gaping mouth of new sebae anemone? 4/30/13
Hi! I have an issue with my Sebae anemone. My boyfriend really wanted it, from Petco, as he was in love with how it was white
<Bleached... this specimen has lost its (necessary) Zooxanthellae... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaeandisf3.htm
and blue tipped. So, I bought it. Our aquarium is about 5 months old now I want to say, and is 29 gallons.
<... not likely to live here. Read the linked files above the citation>
We have everything from pH, ammonia, nitrite and our salinity of the water at perfect levels. We have had our nitrate levels as high as 20, but we are working on lowering that as we have bought some new things to hopefully fix that issue.
<See WWM re NO3 reduction... many methods are more trouble than useful>
Water changes haven't lowered the nitrate levels for some reason. Anyways, our Sebae anemone isn't exactly what I expected.
During the night, it's perfect and beautiful! The tank is totally dark at night. However, when the lights go on in the morning? It's begins to shrink up.
<Yes>
The anemone does seem to be eating when fed krill.
<... see.... needs more/other than this>
The other issue is the gaping mouth. It's always wide open, and I know it's not a good thing, but I don't know what it could indicate really. Would you suggest that we return the anemone to the store?
<Yes>
I'm not even sure they will take it back.
<Mmm, check re your State... most compel such>
What would you suggest I do?
<Read>
Our clown has hosted to it, and I feel bad removing it if it comes down to it. Again, anemone looks very healthy in the dark, just not during the day with lights. The white color has turned to a dirty light brown too, which I have read is a good thing. I look forward to your reply!

Bleached Sebae Anemone Recovery 3/11/13
Hi Folks,
<Adam>
This is a pretty quick question - does a bleached Sebae anemone need protection from aquarium lights while it recovers?
<Mmm, no>
I purchased one that under the store's aquarium lights seemed to be a bit bleached, but was the darkest and healthiest of the specimens in the tank.
I paid a deposit and checked on it every day over a 4 day period to make sure it was consistently inflated and healthy looking before I purchased it. It wasn't until I got it home and saw it under much stronger lighting that I realized how badly bleached it was - not as bad as some I've seen on the internet, but definitely what I would call 'on the edge'. By comparison the others in the tank with it at the store must all be doomed. I've read that a badly bleached anemone is recoverable with TLC, so I'm hoping this one can pull through. I've been feeding it Mysis or chopped scallops every other day to make up the nutrition deficit from not being able to photosynthesize, and from the little refresh I just did on WWM, I'll make sure to chop or blend them even finer than I have been, but it has been accepting all food I've given it so far, and it is deflating to defecate in what I would consider a 'normal' fashion. When I initially received it, I placed it inside a cave, and it was fully expanded by the end of the day.
That was almost 2 weeks ago, and the anemone never moved. The bottom of the cave is sand however, and it never attached
<Won't to sand>
so any time a strong current hit it, it would flip half over with the bottom of it's foot (which appears undamaged) facing up.
<Bad>
If the current hadn't been pushing it in to the cave, it would have floated away. I have limited experience with this species of anemone, so I don't know how much self motivated movement to expect if it's unhappy with a certain placement.
I fed it nearly a full cube of Mysis by turkey baster yesterday, which it accepted. This morning, it was deflated and defecating fully digested food, so I take that to mean it's actually getting nutrition. I took the opportunity to move it to a substrate that it was more likely to attach to,
<Place a plastic strawberry type container over it... or lightly tie down with some cross threads to a rock>
but it's getting significantly more light where it is now. The foot has attached to the rock
<Ah good>
so it's no longer getting lifted up by the current, but it has remained extremely deflated for the past 6 hours, and I suspect it's the light it's reacting to. It's too attached for me to move it back now, but I'm thinking I could move some rocks around to give it more shade.

Not sure if that's the best course of action, or if it needs strong light to recover the Zooxanthellae. My tank is 6'x3'x27" and is lit by 8 Radions, so I know I have enough light for the anemone when it's recovered (I actually can't keep many LPS species as it's too bright for them), I'm just not sure how much protection it needs while it's recovering.
Thanks,
Adam
<Do you have access to a PAR or PUR meter? I'd measure the incident useful light where this Heteractis is. Bob Fenner>

Saving a Sebae/Heteractis crispa/Systems/Health 4/7/12
Dear WWM,
<Hello Eric>
I have used your site on a couple occasions and wanted to say thanks for providing such in depth information for beginners such as myself.
Unfortunately, I recently ended up with a white Sebae Anemone. I bought it from my LFS who is usually a pretty reliable guy. It looks and behaves in a healthy manner in all aspects except the color. Which I have come to find indicates bleaching after researching the care. From what I have been seeing feeding of fresh shrimp and other seafoods in a necessity in its current state. I am hoping that you can provide me with any other tips on saving it. Is it possible to restore the Zooxanthellae in its system or cause it to grow some more?
<A chance.>
Is there any hope of keeping it healthy even though its bleached? I feel really bad about buying and therefore supporting the trade of what appears to be a commonly mistreated anemone and, I would very much like to save it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Currently:
ammonia 0
nitrate less than 40
<Too high.>
phosphates unknown
lights ho full spectrum fluorescents
sg .025
temp 78
tank size 10 gallon
<Tank much too small to maintain health of the Sebae Anemone.>
clarkii clown, LTA anemone
<Is the LTA in addition to the Sebae (Heteractis crispa)?>
<Not a good move in the size of tank you have. If you are referring to the Sebae as a LTA, they are not the same. A LTA or Corkscrew Anemone is a Macrodactyla doreensis.>
( doing very well in current tank ) small scooter blenny.
I am currently halfway through cycling my 55 gallon tank which is where everything will be going too which is outfitted with a four bulb T5 HO system on a timer. 2 actinic bulbs and 2 full spectrums. 10000k's. I do a weekly water change and monitor my levels constantly. I know its a bit of a small tank. It was my first one and i fell in love with it so now everyone in there will be getting a nice big new home :).
<Mmm, strongly suggest you read here and related articles found in the header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
Thank You for any help you can offer.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
> Re Saving a Sebae/Heteractis crispa/Systems/Health 4/8/12
> Dear WWM,
> <Hello Eric>
Thank you for the link James.
<You're welcome.>
The LTA I was referring to is a Long Tentacled or Corkscrew Anemone which is doing well. The Sebae is a second anemone (which I impulse purchased) shame on me I know. I however have read your article and will be speaking with my local fish guy about taking it out and having him hold it or take it back until my larger tank is ready
thus decreasing my bio load in my small tank. Thank you for the advice and keep up the good work. I will certainly be more careful with my livestock purchases in the future.
<Yes, best to read/learn before buying. James (Salty Dog)>

Heteractis crispa Question, beh f' mostly 2/23/12
Hi WWM Crew,
<Abbasali>
I read your article on H. crispa and much of the anemone FAQs but couldn't find what I was looking for... I have a Heteractis crispa specimen in my tank now for over two months. Tank Specifications are 55g 48"X18"X15" fish only with live rock and invertebrates, with 25 gallon sump/DSB/Screen ATS/Carbon/Skimmer. Lights are 2X150W 14k MH. Flow in the tank is created by propeller pumps
<Screen these... to prevent a mishap w/ the anemone>
and the return pump. PH 8.0 - 8.3 Salinity 1.025 (with hydrometer. Can't wait to get a refractometer. Not found one here yet.)
Temp 28-29C Ca. 440ppm Alk 9-10 NO3 0 PO4 0. Live Stock 1 Xanthurus Angel (4") 1 Yellow Finned Blue Damsel 1 A. clarkii (1.5") 1 Centropyge multispinis (3"), Dancing Shrimp X 3, Blood Red Shrimp X 1, Coral Banded Shrimp X 1, Fromia elegans X 1.
When I got the anemone it was largely bleached and didn't look too healthy at all. However I have nursed it back to health and it has regained a lot of florescent greenish grey hue.
<A good sign>
Only a few outer tentacles are still white but they are no longer translucent. Normally during the day it is fully open, tentacles turgid and extended and at night it shrinks in size
<Natural... to avoid predation in the wild>
although it rarely ever closes at night. In the morning it is smaller and the concentration of colours is greater, however one hour after lights on it regains it's normal size.
There is plenty of current in the tank as the tentacles wave about in the water. It feeds well (fed piece of shrimp every other day to every two days) And it appears to have grown during its time in my tank.
This evening however I noticed that the anemone didn't look normal and some of the tentacles although full, turgid and not bleached appeared to be curled up and the colour in the centre section of the anemone seemed more intense than normal. Within five minutes of lights out the anemone was closed, very unusual. However, now, about 1.2 hours, after lights out it seems to have opened again and tentacles appear somewhat normal although the anemone is not fully open. Could it be that there is too much current where it currently is, since I changed this about two weeks ago until the anemone tentacles were swinging around merrily as opposed to gently earlier (however it is not receiving a direct jet of water).
<Not really; no. This animal would have moved if there was too much water movement>
Also the photo period has been reduced a week ago from 11 to 9 hours per day. This was done to control temp swings and also to combat algae growth in the main display and it has worked well in both these areas.
<No big deal; anemones can widely shift their nutrient sources>
What do you think? The anemone is firmly attached and shows no other signs of a problem. Water quality is as usual and the fish/invertebrates appear totally normal.
Also I am planning to take the Centropyge multispinis back from where I got him. He was damaged when I got him but has now returned to full health and fullness but I'd rather a more colourful fish given that there are no corals in my tank. Would it be possible to safely house a Powder Blue Tang in my tank given the dimensions?
<No... this volume is too small. You'd be "asking for trouble">
If not could you please recommend a fish that would eat micro algae and which is available in Sri Lankan waters as I am limited to fish from Sri Lankan waters as there are no imports for retail sale here.
<A small spinefoot/Rabbitfish species, specimen would be my choice>
Sorry for the length of this email and thanks for all the help your team have given me readily and when i have needed it...
Thanks.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Heteractis Crispa Question 2/23/12
Hi,
<Hello again>
Thanks for that reply. I feel much better and the Anemone too has opened more since i sent that email. The propeller pumps are screened :-D. This is my first anemone and I am anxious because I waited nearly five years before getting one, practicing good husbandry etc...
<Good>
Will the yellow spotted Foxface be a good idea? What about a bicolour blenny?
<Both can/could work... the Ecsenius might bother your shrimps...>
Thanks...
<Again, welcome. BobF>
Re: Heteractis Crispa Question 2/24/12
Hi,
<Good morrow>
Just to let you know the Anemone is doing fine this morning... I think I was just over reacting but thanks for bearing with me...
Warm Regards
Thanks.
<Thank you for this follow-up. BobF>

Sebae and clown fish/Heteractis Health 1/28/12
<Hello Sharon>
I have had my Sebae for several months and it has been doing great.
Started out white and began getting a nice color like I have read on your site. Thanks for all the info! After about 4 weeks my 2 clowns became its best friends. I think they are 'loving it' to death! I removed the clowns a few weeks ago and the Sebae seems to be doing better (sometimes I think yes and other times not so much). She used to eat but now is bulimic. I'm afraid to put my clowns back in with her but they can't live in my QT forever! Any suggestions? Please be gentle with me ;)
<Sharon, not enough info here for a helpful response. Size of tank, type of light/wattage/water parameters, etc. James (Salty Dog)>
Sharon
Re Sebae and clown fish/Heteractis Health 1/28/12
46 gallon tank, 10,000k & actinic lighting.
<Tank a little small for a Heteractis Anemone, parameters can change frequently. You did not give the wattage of your lighting.>
Tank has been just over 8 months, salinity 1.025, ammonia 0, pH 8.4, Alk in 'normal' range, nitrite 0, nitrates 20. I know that is high and I do a 10 to 50% water change weekly because my tank is 'new'. Does that help?
<Somewhat. Suggest you read here, related articles/FAQs found in header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Sebae and clown fish/Heteractis Health 1/28/12
I get an error message when I try your link, any suggestions?
<Mmm, what does the message state? Google our site, Heteractis crispa.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re Sebae and clown fish/Heteractis Health 1/28/12
It says the page cannot be found, will Google, thanks.
<You're welcome. Likely your browser giving you a problem. I copied/pasted the link below and it worked for me.
Might want to try updating your browser to IE9 or Firefox.>
I have been reading your site all morning, so much info I loose track of time.
<Easy to do, isn't it.>
Both my lights are T5 39 W, one is 10,000k and the other is actinic 420.
Is that not enough light for a 46 gallon tank?
<No Sharon, metal halide/HQI, or if you can afford it, suitable LED lighting. With metal halide or HQI, somewhere in the neighborhood of 150-175 watts. An LED fixture to do the job will be somewhere around $1,000 but there are many benefits to LED lighting.>
I have 2 Pajama Cardinals, Flame angle <Angel>, Lawnmower Benny,
<Did you name him Benny or did you mean Blenny? :-)>
Watchman Goby,
<Please cap proper nouns in future queries such as fish names.>
lots of live rock several inches sand, assorted snails and hermits, a Sand Sifting Starfish.
<This animal will slowly starve to death in your 46 gallon tank.>
Powerhead, Remora skimmer, Penguin bio 350 and baby snails everywhere (is that normal for snails to mate?).
<Does occur.>
I think they are turbo's. Plus my two ocillarios <Ocellaris> (sp) clowns that I have separated. I thought I did my homework setting this system up but knew I was pushing the envelope with the Sebae.

Any help would be appreciated. Don't want to lose anybody.
<If you do not plan on upgrading your lighting, I'd find a suitable home for the anemone and quickly. Do keep a close eye on it because if it dies unnoticed, you will likely lose everything. Dead anemones can poison the water quickly.
James (Salty Dog)>
Sharon
Re Sebae and clown fish/Heteractis Health 1/28/12
Any particular brand of lighting you recommend? There are so many to choose from and it seems I have already made enough mistakes.
<Coralife and AquaticLife are both decent brands and come with supplemental actinic lighting. I'd likely go with the AquaticLife as they use T5 lamps for their actinics while Coralife uses the older technology power compact tubes.
Take a look here.
http://www.marinedepot.com/lighting_metal_halide__subindex-ap.html
I'd carefully consider doing this, especially in your size tank. Would be better finding a suitable home for the anemone and save 600 bucks. Getting the lighting is no guarantee that the anemone will live for an extended period of time.
Might want to read this survey conducted by Joyce Wilkerson before upgrading your lighting.
http://www.athiel.com/lib/questions/anemone.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Sharon

Sebae Anemone Questions 1/3/12
Dear Bob,
<James with you today Abbasali.>
Good Morning/Afternoon/Evening. It's me again. After over 12 years in the saltwater hobby and having great success with it I finally felt I was ready for an anemone for my tank which has been running very well for over a year. So I acquired a Sebae Anemone (the only variety that was available)
I looked and got the specimen with the most visible colour, although much of the outer tentacles were white.
I acclimated it and introduced it to my tank. Within ten minutes it had found a nice place and buried its foot in the sand and has not moved until this morning, one week after introduction. The colour in the center has intensified and some of the outer tentacles seem to have begun regenerating their colour. The anemone is very responsive and accepts food (freeze dried krill) like a sponge, grabbing with the tentacles and passing it to the orifice. I have nearly six watts of 14000k metal halides per gallon, currently and very good flow in the display area (tentacles waving in the breeze).
Since introduction thin scraggly tentacles have become nice long turgid looking tentacles and the purple tips have become quite striking, along with the specimen opening up fully (to take in the light i assume). This morning however I find the anemone has moved about two inches and now lies practically entirely under a rocky overhang, although everything else seems normal. Is this normal behaviour?
<Can be. Anemones generally move to an area of their liking both in flow and lighting. It's possible the light intensity of the area the anemone was in may be a little too much for it's liking. Although Heteractis crispa appreciate strong lighting, it is a good idea to light acclimate the anemone especially with the lighting you are using.>
Is everything I have described before normal behaviour? What should I look out for to tell if an anemone has died so that I may avert a disaster of gargantuan proportions?
<Look for deflation for an extended period of time (two/three days),
refusal to feed, and to read here and related articles/FAQs.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
As I told you previously (not that I expect you to remember :-D) all my parameters are well in order and the fish show no signs of distress at all.
Please let me know if I should be worried.
<Not yet.>
Thanks and warm regards from perpetually sunny Sri Lanka! :-D
<You're welcome from cold and dreary Michigan.>
PS: My skimmer has stopped producing foam as of this morning and it seems that there is nothing to skim because bubbles are there in full force and I don't notice any foam in the filtration area where the surface agitates (normally if the skimmer has not worked for a period foam develops in these areas). Does this mean that there is nothing to skim or could this be a cause for alarm?
<Would give it a good cleaning, especially the venturi. Rising nitrate levels should tell you if the skimmer is not working efficiently.>
Re Sebae Anemone Questions, hlth f' 1/4/12
Hi James,
<Hello Abbasali>
Thanks for replying so quickly... I shall watch the anemone.
<OK>
As for the skimmer it was fully serviced last week and was working perfectly fine producing a thick foam and thick green liquid with a lot of gunk. I cleaned out the collection cup day before yesterday and tweaked it a bit to get a bit more skimmate. Could this be the issue?
<Possibly. By chance did you put anything new in the system made from acrylic?
Sometimes this can cause a temporary problem with skimming and/or if you cleaned the skimmer with a substance other than warm water. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Sebae Anemone Questions 1/4/12
Hi,
<Hello>
Nope, nothing acrylic. Just cleaned the skimmer with cold water. I don't normally use warm water. As for the anemone, it's still under the rocks. I can see the pedal disc. How do I tell if it is dying? It's just been over two days since it went under the rocks. Should I be worried?
<Mmm, seems like I just went through that with you. Read the thread again.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Anemone/Sebae/ >not< Condylactis Systems/Health 4/24/2011
Hello,
<Hello Chris>
thanks in advance for answering my questions.
<You're welcome.>
I recently purchased two anemones from a pet store franchise, which was probably my first mistake.
<Maybe.>
I bought a Condy anemone and a white sebae anemone. The pet store put both of the anemones in the same bag for transport home, which I found to be strange to begin with.
<Did you not realize this was not good?>
They were both attached to the glass when I got them and the sebae was a tannish color which I have read too be a sign of good health.
<Not necessarily.>
The car ride home was about an hour in distance.
<Oh boy, stinging each other for an hour.>
Since, then they have both been drip acclimated and placed in my tank. The Condy has attached to a piece of live rock where it first landed in the tank and the white sebae has seemed pretty much lifeless floating with the current until it hits a piece of live rock and semi attaches. They have been in the tank for about 24 hours and since then the Condy has stayed attached to the live rock in which it landed on, but has been about 80% retracted basically the entire time.
<Not unusual.>
The Condy has been retracting more when anything gets around it so I know it is still alive. The sebae seemed to stay attached at the spot where it landed until this morning where I noticed it pretty much rolling over due to the current. I am more concerned about the health of the sebae because it seems to be doing the worse of the two.
<Not surprising.>
I was thinking that they might have damaged or killed one another on the way home from the pet store and was hoping you could give me some insight to this.
<Kind of late now, isn't it. Should have researched these animals and their needs before you even bought them.>
I was also hoping you may let me know if there are any improvements I can make to my aquarium setup. I have a 40 gallon breeder tank
<Too small for the Sebae Anemone.>
with 55 pounds of premium Fiji live rock, 30 pounds of live aggregate, and run 2-36 inch t5 bulbs, which consist of a10,000k bulb along with a t5 actinic 460 bulb, for my lighting.
<Not enough light for these animals, soon to die.>
I run a canister filter that is regulated for up to 100 gallons and also have a 1050 gph powerhead. My protein skimmer is rated for up to 80 gallons and seems to do a good job except for the fact that I have to adjust the air water mixture about 2 to 3 times a week for it to start producing again. My inhabitants consist of 14 margarita snails, 4 hermit crabs, a coral banded shrimp, 2 juvenile clown fish, a coral beauty dwarf angel, and a yellow tang.(and the two unhealthy looking anemones)
<Tank too small for the tang as well and in this small space your fish risk a good chance of being stung.>
My parameters are continuously at zero with the exception of my nitrates which stay at about 10 ppm. I apologize for the long winded explanation and I appreciate the service that you provide and look forward to your advice and hopefully letting you know that they both have pulled through and are flourishing.
<I suggest to see if you can return these animals, is not going to work out in your system. Do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm
James (Salty Dog) Lake Huron Coast>
Chris Jenkins MS gulf coast

Not Condylactis sp... Trouble altogether... RMF

Re Anemone/Sebae/ >not< Condylactis Systems/Health 4/24/2011
My oversight on the Condy Bob. Meant to state this in the query but after I got into the message, I forgot, and clicky, sendy. I've actually had one of these anemones in the past.
James
<Do you know what this species is? BobF>
Re Anemone/Sebae/ >not< Condylactis Systems/Health 4/25/11
I do not know the name of this species but I believe it is a member of the Phymanthidae family but I'm not positive.
Cheers,
J
<Thank you for this. B>

sebae looks injured???, Heteractis crispa injury 4/20/11
Hi,
<<Hello Peter.>>
Yesterday I noticed that my sebae anemone decided to move, I thought nothing of it, until I noticed part of the anemone didn't look good. It appears to be injured in a small area, but the rest looks healthy, just not opening up as much as it used to.
<<Peter it's difficult to diagnose with such vague information to be honest, without more the best I can do is guess. Heteractis crispa has a dismal track record to begin with (See the WWM art; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm ). Can you describe the characteristics of the injury (i.e. a tear, discoloration) and where exactly on the animal it is? (Or better yet send along a pic). Also what type of system is this animal in? (lighting, chemistry readings, feeding regime...). How long have you had the animal? All of this is important as these animals usually suffer in captivity due to some environmental deficiency, assuming they were collected properly to begin with of course.>>
So I took a look at where it moved from, and no rocks or corals had fallen on it. Can you help me?
<<See above >>
-Peter
<<Adam J.>>

Sebae Anemone Trouble/Sebae Systems/Sebae Health 10/7/10
Hi,
<Hello Sarah>
Well, first let me say that your website has been a lifesaver for my fish!
Thank you for being so helpful!
<You're welcome. Sarah, before I can go any further, I'd like your tank size, lighting used, and tank parameters, pH, dKH, etc. James (Salty Dog)>
Now, I recently purchased a Sebae Anemone, and I'm starting to think it was a foolish move. I've had the tank cycled for several months now with live rock and a homemade sump tank and everything has been doing great. I have 2 false Perculas that I thought would enjoy an anemone. Well, for starters I think I bought the wrong one, but that's not my problem. The issue is that it has been doing great since I've had it. When I first put him in the tank after dripping him for about an hour, he almost immediately ventured for his spot in the tank, and has been there since. When I first got him, he was bleached white, and has slowly been turning a slight tan color since, so I was happy. Well, today when I went to feed him, I noticed one of my hermit crabs starting to trample all over him to steal his food. About an hour later when I checked him out again, he was all shriveled up and expelling a long piece of white stuff, almost looked like a thick cobweb, and it seemed to be all over the shell of the hermit crab that was harassing him earlier. Is this a sign of any kind of trauma?
Should I be worried about him? I know Sebaes are not the hardiest of anemones, but I didn't think they were that delicate.... I was hoping my clowns would notice it, but they haven't at all...but the more I read on your site, the more I've come to learn that the two are not a normal pair... but that's ok. If I can keep this one alive, I might get a second, or do a trade in.
Thanks for your help!!
Sarah

Re: Anemone ID... Not dying 7/1/10
update
Hey all
I believe/hope my bleached anemone is recovering. I attached before and after photos taken 6 weeks apart. I still am not sure what kind it is. (my clowns seem to like it regardless)
Am I correct in thinking its getting better? Can it now be identified?
Sebae?
Thanks for your help.
Steve
<Yes!, and likely Heteractis crispa. BobF>

Sebae Anemone/Health/Systems 6/29/10
Dear WWM,
<Nick>
Your posts and e-mails have always provided valuable advice.
<Thank you.>
I have read through many of the FAQ links concerning Sebae Anemones and cannot seem to locate specific information regarding a few things. Before I ask my questions, here is some information about my tanks (I have one Sebae in each tank):
Tank One; 14 gallon (I will be moving the Anemone to tank two once I know rather or not it is healthy) Oceanic Bio Cube (I do not know the exact lighting these are sold with; it has not been upgraded from factory lighting).
<Will not stay too healthy in this scenario, too small even if temporary.>
I have a UV, skimmer, heater @ 80.5 degrees, 20 pounds live rock, twenty - thirty pounds of live sand, one sexy shrimp (who loves the anemone!), one Maroon clown,
<Too small a system for this fish.>
one damsel (white with a yellow tail; don't know the name), 3 Nerite Snails, 3 nessarius (spelling?) <Nassarius>, 4
hermit crabs, a serpent starfish, and a Nano power head. I have the white and blue lights on for six hours, moon-light for 8 hours, and just blue lights for the rest of the time.
<The lighting in this system is no where near adequate for this anemone.
I'm quite sure you haven't read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
Tank Two; 75 gallons. This tank has a 120 gallon sump, a Red Sea Venturi skimmer, UV, 80 pounds live sand, 55 pounds live rock, three 1050gph power heads, a 4 bulb (2 blue, 2 white) T5 light with 216 watts total output (same
lighting hours as tank one), 1 False Percula Clown, 3 Damsels, 1 Turbo Snail, 3 hermit crabs, 4 Nerite / nessarius <Nassarius> snails, temp at 80 degrees.
Both tanks test 0-0.5 nitrates / nitrites, <?> 490 calcium, 8.5 PH, 15dkh (high), 0.5 phosphates (down from 2.0 last week). Water changes bi-weekly of 25-45%.
So here are my questions (finally!). I have read a lot of posts on your site about "bleached" anemones. How am I to know if it is bleached or normal colored? What color are they when they are healthy and if mine is not, how do I go about nursing it back to good health? Both of my anemones are white(ish) yellow with purple tips.
<Sebae (Heteractis crispa) have a gray or violet-brown appearance overall, depending on the concentration of its symbiotic algae, and will have a centered pink tip at the end of the tentacles.>
The anemone in tank 1 has grown 1-2 inches in the past month or two. I feed them phytoplankton and brine
shrimp; perhaps I should move up to something more substantial?
<Yes, found in the above link.>
As for my lighting (in each tank), is it sufficient?
<Tank 1 no, tank 2 may be borderline depending on the depth of the tank.>
My anemones rarely move around and seem to be content on their rocks at the bottom of the tanks. In my 75 gallon, the anemone actually moved into a cave I made for my fish; it could not get any further from the lights unless it buried itself!
<Not a good sign. Do read the article I linked you to.>
Lol
Do Sebae Anemones like a lot of current? I wonder if my current in tank 2 is too much?
<If the three 1050gph power heads are always on, yes, it is too much and may be why the anemone
settled in the cave which is not a good place to get the light it requires.
Better to set these pumps up with a wavemaker device. The Aquarium Systems model is very inexpensive and
works well.>
The fish do not seem to mind it. J
I know this is a very long post and I truly appreciate your help!!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
~Nick

Sebae Gaining Brown Then Shriveled 5/31/2010
Dear WWM,
<KT>
First of all, thank you for providing such wonderful site for everyone.
I've been a reader for the past year and today I am in an emergency and decided to write to you in hope to rescue my Sebae.
My tank is a 28 gal Nano Cube with the following parameter:
pH - 8.15
Alkalinity - 5.5
<In what units?>
Nitrite - 0.075
Nitrate - 0
Ammonia - 1.0 :-( what can I do about lowering the ammonia? I do 10% water change every week.
Phosphate - 0.75
<High>
KH - 12 dKH
Calcium - 420
Mg - 1025
<Low relative to [Ca]>
These numbers have been the same since I introduced the anemone about a week ago. When the anemone arrived, it was pretty white (not quite translucent) but seems in "full bloom". The tentacles were short and stubby though. I read that they are suppose to be long?
<Oh yes>
From Day 3 to Day 7, I can see the anemone gradually gaining some brown.
But a couple days ago, it all of the sudden expelled all of its water and stayed shriveled since. Last night, it begin to "vomit" entrails and the skin of its foot is so shrunken that its "internals" are exposed. I kept testing the water and all numbers stayed the same. Nothing has been introduced to the tank.
Note: from Day 1, it has been showing "attempts" of feeding. But every time, it would hold onto the food (1/8" fresh fish/shrimp meat), spit its stomach out, stay like that for about 3 minutes, then drop the food and tuck its stomach back in. My baby Maroon
<This species gets too big for such a small volume>
has been dropping little bits of food on it as well but same result, it tries to eat but then wouldn't.
I found Mike's reply to a 9/4/05 post. His words of "Never give up" (never surrender! :p) were very encouraging. I followed his suggestion/instruction and force fed the anemone. (I thought I read somewhere else on WWM to never force feed a nem but at this point, I'd rather try something than letting it die.) It balled up and held the food with it. I don't have the Selcon so I just mixed one drop of Garlic Xtreme with Cyclop-eeze (freeze-dried powder form). I'll try to find the Selcon tomorrow. How much Selcon should I mix into the food?
<Just "a drop">
I gave the anemone about 1 ml aquarium water mixed with a (woman's) pinky nail portion of the Cyclop-eeze powder. Is this an okay amount?
<If consumed...>
I read that Selcon contains Vitamin C & B12 plus Omega-3 fatty acid. If I can't get the Selcon quickly, is there another substitute & how much of that should I use?
<There are several... including "baby vitamins"... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/vitaminmarfaqs.htm
I realize you receive tons of inquiries everyday and thank you very much in advance for your time. For your reference, I've copied the 9/4/05 post at the bottom of this e-mail.
Looking forward to hear back from you soon.
Best Regards,
Katie
<Do keep your eye on this specimen Katie... and re-review what is archived on WWM re Heteractis crispa. Bob Fenner>
Re: Sebae Gaining Brown Then Shriveled 6/1/10
Thank you for such prompt reply, Bob! My alkalinity unit is in meg/L.
The phosphate level is actually 0.075, not 0.75. (Sorry, when numbers drop below 0.1, I get confused.) I'll try to bring up the Mg level and use the vitamins suggested in the provided link. Is there anything I can do about
lowering the ammonia level?
<... see WWM re>
Should I do an even more frequent water change?
<... likely so...>
Thanks again!
Katie
<... B>

BTA demise 5/13/10
Hi to all WWM crew, Its the first time I ask/write a question to you, usually I find the answer or something near to it in the website, Ill try to cover all the details, completely cycled aquarium,70 gal, plus 30 more of sump, DIY skimmer in urgent need of perfection, evaporative cooling device (fan) to maintain water on the 24/28 °C right now its 26°C, it evaporates a lot of water, I replenish it daily with treated tap water, no RO yet.
SG is 1.1025,
<1.025 likely>
Calcium is 450 ppm,
<Mg?>
nitrates are 5 ppm, nitrites 0, pH 8.4. A deep sandbed about 5 inches consisting of crushed coral an a
1inch or more aragonite sand, lots of live rock and really don't know how much, full of sponges, coraline algae, two varieties of Caulerpa racemosa and the other one that is more common,
<Likely C. taxifolia... both too toxic for casual use. See WWM re>
under control, just two little patches of green color, GAC in the sump and also phos sorb from API, sump is also full of live rock, this live rock has been with me in other aquariums for more than 2 years now. Drilled tank, two 1-1/2 inch outflow and two 1 inch inflows also two Koralia 3 pumps for creating water movement. Lighting is comprised of 2 -56w pc 50/50, and two HO t-5 10,000k and actinic blue lamps making it about 200 w of light, also aquarium gets some nice sun light from the windows in the mornings and midday. I used to have some 30 gal aquariums near this windows and anemones, Condylactis that time used to love the light, or at least I supposed that.
Now with the livestock, there is only one sand sifting goby, one little toadstool soft coral, about 3 inches high and about 1-1/2inch wide, one little piece of cup coral that I'm trying to salvage from the LFS, he
gave it to me free, I think its making its comeback slowly, (daily feeding trying to get the little tentacles to get something), three turbo snails about 1 inch each, some Aiptasia on the live rock, and the purpose of this email, a new green BTA.
<May not get along w/ the other Cnidarians here>
On the LFS it had already three weeks on the holding tanks, good color, extended not all but about what I would thing 3/4 it size, it was housing one little maroon clownfish, was the only inhabitant of that tank, its foot was strong, no visible tears or anything suspicious, when I bought it I took much care for the store guy to don't separate it from the rock it was, so I got all the piece together, BTA and rock, perfect condition at my home, made the dripping method to acclimate the anemone and then to put into the aquarium I never got it out of the water, I positioned the rock and BTA the about 2/3 from the bottom of the aquarium, right now it could have chosen any spot it liked, everything looked fine, stayed extended, mouth normal no gaping, then next day it started some inflating deflating cycles, inflated by night deflated by day, but then it started to look like those clocks from Dali, hasn't moved from the spot, there is good circulation there, well now It looks worse 4 days from the introduction it seems like something has ripped some tentacles apart, they seem like detaching, and mouth is ok but beside the mouth there is this "open wound" , with stringy things coming out, it really doesn't looks good. Right now it is contracted and on the foot about half its way there is an open wound also, I haven't been able to understand what is going on here, seems like there is something picking on it but I cant see it, the crabs are small and have been with me about 2 years also, always sifting sand and algae, or staying put where a current is to get some food from it. Well that's all I could think of, I don't know what to do my QT tanks aren't ready, and I'm afraid If I move the BTA it will get worse, I'm in the process of stocking these new tank (3 months now, about 1 with the livestock) and well with almost no inhabitants in this tank I saw little problems for the BTA. Any helpful hint, piece of advice, or alike would be greatly appreciated.
I'm attaching some pictures of the BTA.
Thanks in advance
sincerely
David Bulnes Abundis
<Allelopathy is the most likely trouble here, though there are a few other possibilities. Read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/BTADis8.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

BTA Demise pictures 5/13/10
Hi, I just wrote about 10 minutes ago, my laptop was crashing and to avoid losing all the long email I had written I sent the email without the attached pictures. By the way, the bta has just moved up and now is more in front of a current. Hope the pictures are all right and my anemone can get healthy but it really looks bad. Thank you again wwm.
<... this animal has been artificially dyed... and appears to not be an Entacmaea, but a Heteractis crispa... The likelihood of it living is about zip. I'd siphon it out to waste now. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>
Has recibido 3 imgenes.

Re: BTA Demise pictures 5/13/10
Just did that about 1 hour ago (siphon it out) really sorry for the poor thing, I´ve been reading the links you stated, how can you tell from the picture it is a dyed animal, I mean, when it was all opened up and "happy" (if it ever was), it had this tan color nothing very colorful I even though It was lacking Zooxanthellae owed to lack of lighting, jut this slight green hue on the tips, but when it started shrinking the green color started to appear more intense as in the photos.
<... this fluorescent green is due to Rit dye applied in the orient... One of a few stock phony colours>
I´ve seen this tan colour, not the super green, in a very healthy Condylactis so
<There is a lighter, more pale green of this hue that occurs in C. passiflora; true>
It made me not suspicious of a dyed animal. I would love to learn to distinguish these specimens as I know the people of the LFS and I highly doubt they even know they are trading dyed specimens, I would love to do something to stop this practice, at least at a local level. I've read and own lots of literature including your book, the conscientious marine aquarist, coral propagation from Calfo, Julian Sprung´s the reef aquarium series, Sea Anemones as a hobby of TFH, and the like, in fact I think I have a very good reference book collection. I used to have a little LFS but my PhD consumed all my time and never started with saltwater trade.
<Ahh! I salute your efforts at educating yourself, and doing what can be done to improve practices in our trade, interest>
Really big thanks for your time and the time of all WWM crew, great site in deed. Sorry for my English and lack of good use of punctuation marks. I´m just really bad at writing English or Spanish in fact, my GF always corrects my research papers.
<No worries. I understand you perfectamente>
Sincerely,
David Bulnes Abundis
<Nos vemos. Roberto Fenner>

Pictures of the "BTA" 5/14/10
I´m attaching more pictures of my poor anemone, I wanted to know if by this pictures it is possible to tell it is not E. quadricolor and it is H. crispa,
<This is almost assuredly Heteractis crispa... judging by the shape, position of tentacles and their red tips... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm
scroll down to the articles by myself re all Actinarians, this species...>
and more important to me, not that knowing the species isn´t, but I find disturbing that I couldn't spot a dyed animal. Any piece of advice will be very welcome. Hope I'm not being too insistent with this new email. Thanks for your quick responses. Saludos y gracias.
Sincerely,
David Bulnes Abundis
<And the article and FAQs file on Dyed Anemones. BobF>

Heteractis Crispa/Systems/Health 5/13/10
<Hello Robert>
My 90 gallon aquarium is mixed corals and has been set up since November 26 ,2009. I have a 10 gallon refugium with macro algae and aragonite sand lit with a florescent full spectrum bulb in addition to the sump and protein skimmer. The 90 gallon is lit with 2- 250 metal hides and 2- 24inch actinic pc compact bulbs.
<Yowsie, you could grow sun with that.>
I have about 80 lbs of live rock that I received from a retiring aquarist complete with all of the mixed corals and 1 Bubble Tipped Anemone <on> December 10,2009.
January 15, 2010 I added 1 Yellow Tang 2 Perculas and a Six Line Wrasse and some brittle stars. Everything is growing very well and I have learned something new almost every day.
<Great!>
So here comes the most recent lesson. I added a piece of live rock with some mushrooms on it and discovered a completely bleached Sebae Crispa
<Heteractis crispa>
as well. Before you say always check before you drive, sometimes things happen. So here is my dilemma; I could bring the whole mess back to the incompetent LFS that the incompetent reef keeper(me) purchased ( I had store credit from freshwater plant sales.) it from so they could kill it or sell it to someone else. Or I could set up a 10 gallon Quarantine tank with metal halide lighting (light can be raised well above aquarium). Or I could leave it in the 90 and pray that the two anemones do not attack. Or I could just remove and destroy. The Sebae Crispa looks very happy and healthy other than being snow white with purple tips.
Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
<A pic of the anemone in question would have been nice, but to answer your question...Moving the Sebae Anemone to a small system will be a big step backward and will result in almost certain failure as this 10 gallon tank will not be aged enough and/or large enough to satisfy it's needs. If the anemone appears
healthy, he can be in no better spot for recovery than in your 90 with twin MH lamps. The risk you will take is the possibility of losing fish/invertebrates to it's sting, the chance you would have to take.
If you decide to keep the anemone, twice daily inspections should be carried out to ensure the anemone is healthy/improving, and not dying. A dying anemone can poison the entire tank's
inhabitants. Do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm>
The LFS I purchased this rock from has about 10 salt and 300 freshwater Aquariums and is not normally a go to source for me primarily because of my 20 years of freshwater experience and feedback they have given others conflicts with my experience.
<Happens all too often. James (Salty Dog)>
Robert

Sebae, anemone gen., reading 3/10/10
Please help me. I have a very established salt water tank( 1 yr +), 20 gal
<Too small a volume/world for anemones...>
and I just purchased a Sebae anemone, approx 1 wk ago.
<Return this animal>
Did not know that they are not supposed to white until I read your articles. What I don't get, however, is how to make this animal healthy? Can I get Zooxanthellae(sp) to feed it?
<Not as such, no... can house with other animals that contain... that may be incorporated in time... but not likely at all to live here>
It is small, 2-4 inches, and isn't really eating that I can tell. Is it big enough for silversides?
<Return it>
I have brine shrimp, which I'm guessing from the articles is wrong, sigh. I really don't want this to die. My Fiji Tomato Clown loves it!
<These also require a larger world>
BTW, the clown is only about 1 so it's not loving it to death.
<Good, and good point>
It is currently starting to shrivel somewhat, not turning brown, which I'm guessing is what they need to do, but is sticky and has not moved in the last week from the live rock it has attached itself to. I fed it some brine shrimp today, but can't tell whether it really ate it or the clown ate it. He's really not good at feeding it. What do I do?
<... return>
Yes, levels are fine, nitrates a little high, 30 ppm or so, calcium perfect, ph a little low, still acceptable, but added a buffer to bring it up some. Lighting is good, I have a Coralife t5 ho lighting system, directly on the glass on the gtank, and there is moderate movement in the tank. I have 2 damsels, 1 clown (already mentioned), a camel shrimp, 2 hermit crabs, 1 emerald crab, 3 snails and a pajama cardinal. Also, about 20 lbs of live rock. What do I do to save my little creature?
Sara

Sebae Anemone, hlth, no data 7/15/2009
I'm truly baffled by the behavior of my sebae anemone. When I first got this anemone he was a white/pale yellow in color with purple tips.
<The one pictured is badly bleached... starving>
Then I thought it was normal, now I know it was most likely unhealthy.
Since he has been in my tank he has started turning colors. First it started developing a tan tone so I thought he was on the road to recovery.
But the color is getting weird now...almost a pink in tone and instead of being folded inward like a cup he is protruding out from the middle? Still actively eating, just doesn't look right at all. What is going on here?
<Summat is amiss... chemically in this system... perhaps a negative interaction with some other Cnidarian life>
This tank has been up and running for 14 months and the sebae was added about 3 months ago. All of my parameters are within normal range and everything else in my tank is thriving beautifully. Please help me figure out what's going on here. Thank you.
<Need data on water testing, other tankmates, history of operation. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaeandisf2.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

anemone 6/21/09
Hi,
<Hello pa loose!>
I sent you a picture of my anemone...
<Mmm, no, not an Actinarian... look at the prominent corallite skeleton under the translucent bits...>
can you tell me what to do...
<Is tempting...>
I have a clown that host it, and the anemone still eat.. .but it don't look fine :(
thank you
<... This is a solitary Caryophylliid... See WWM re?
Bob Fenner>

Re: anemone, not 6/21/09
Hi, thank you for your fast reply...
<Welcome>
but I don't think I understand... this anemone is a sebae no skeleton at all
<... is not Heteractis crispa... or, at least not the pic you sent... will attach what you sent us here for your review>
and right now it's look like her mouth is too big but it still eat it's start looking like that only a couple week back ( I have it for about 5 months) I tried searching for "solitary Caryophylliid" on your website, but the search engine doesn't seem to work
thank you
<See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/caryidfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Anemone 6/22/09
Hi,
<Noel>
I sent you a picture of my anemone...
<Pardone moi... I mistook another image of an anemone sent in as yours... I see it now... A Heteractis crispa with the mouth everted...>
can you tell me what to do...
<We need information re your set-up, water quality tests, other tankmates/livestock, foods/feeding... the history of care of this animal and system>
I have a clown that host it, and the anemone still eat.. .but it don't look fine :(
thank you
<Bob Fenner>

April 12, 2009 6:08 AM
> To: crew@wetwebmedia.com
> Subject: magnifica or crispa?
> Hi,
> <Hello>
> I need your help again :)
> can you help me telling if this anemone is a Heteractis magnifica or a Heteractis crispa?
> <Yes... the latter, though badly bleached>
> it was sold as a Heteractis magnifica, but the anemone was white with blue tip... but now it getting some brown on it
> <A good sign... likely re-incorporating endosymbiotic Zooxanthellae>
> could it be that the anemone was bleach?
> <Yes, this is so>
> thanks again for your help!
> <Welcome. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaedisfaqs.htm
> and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Sebae Anemone/Health 3/30/09
I just received a sebae from a friend of mine, it has no tentacles anymore but he said it should be regenerating them or growing them back some how? Not exactly sure how. what would you recommend to help bring this invert back to life?
<A magician. A pic would help describe "no tentacles"....None at all, or retracted into the column? These anemones are not easy to keep to begin with. See here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Vince

Sebae Anemone Swallowed a Snail 12/07/08 I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been running smoothly for almost 2 years now. I have a sebae anemone that I acquired about a year ago, and it has been extremely happy in the tank and located in place. It has grown from a tiny 4" to almost 18" now when he is fully open. <Nice!> That now brings me to my problem. When I got home last night, I noticed that he had begun to shrivel up. Upon further inspection it appears that he had ingested a reasonably large Trochus snail that may have fallen off the live rock, as I could see the last of the shell as it was being taken into his mouth. I didn't think there was any way to pull it without damaging the sebae, so I left it to take its course. <This is best at this point...> Today he is completely deflated, but I have seen him shift up and lay back down. My question is this, will he ultimately be able to purge the snail shell or is there something that I should try and do to help him out? <This animal may be able to push the shell out by itself... but if a bit of it large enough to grab shows itself... I would give it a gentle, steady pull and remove it myself> I know there is a third potential, but would rather not go down that path as my kids think of him as much of a pet as the couple of fish I have in the tank. Thanks -Rick <Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Sebae anemone, bleached, resurrected! I bought a sebae anemone 2 months ago that was beached white. I don't have a question I just want to tell you guys with all of the info I received from your site I was able to bring this anemone back. <Yay!> I fed it Mysis shrimp and kept it under my 250 watt metal halides and this anemone has doubled in size and is every sticky now ,but most important of all he is brown in color. I just want to say thank for the help! Keith c <Congratulations on your success. Bob Fenner>

Anemone ID- Possible H. crispa / E. Quadricolor / Health Issue 6/14/08 First off, I've learned so much from your site. <Good to hear! > Thank you for providing such a knowledgeable service. <You're welcome! > It's my first stop when I have a marine aquarium issue or question. I've tried to ID this anemone but have had little success. It was sold as a Sebae but looks nothing like the pictures of Sebae's that I've researched. So simply, can you ID this specimen? Picture attached. <It has some similar characteristics of both the Sebae and the E. quadricolor (BTA). How long have you had this anemone? What are you feeding and what sized portions? What are your water parameters? What equipment do you have, and what size tank. Im leaning more towards the Sebae here, but Im wondering if it is not stressed and/or possibly lacking nutrition. The color variations makes me wonder if this anemone was dyed, or if it was bleached and is now regaining its Zooxanthellae. > Thank you for any info. Karl <You're welcome! Brenda >

Re: Anemone ID, Possible H. crispa / E. quadricolor / Health Issue 6/14/08 Thank you for the response Brenda. <You're welcome! > I know better, I should have provided more information. I've had the anemone for 2 weeks now. I took advice from the WWM site (concerning Sebae's) and feed it a portion of Silverside every other day no bigger than its mouth. Water parameters are almost perfect. NH3-0, No2-0, No3-5, Calcium 460, Phosphate 0, 9 DKH . SD-1.024 10% water change weekly. <Gradually bring the salinity up to 1.026 by topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater. This is closer to the normal salinity of the ocean. > 55 gallon reef setup. Remora skimmer, wet/dry sump, 500 gph return, <Is there any other flow? A 500 gph may not be enough after you calculate head loss. > 265 watts of 65k and actinic. <Power compact lighting is border line at best for this anemone. I would consider an upgrade to T-5 or metal halide.> 60lbs LR and aragonite substrate. It had been moving around but looks like it has settled down in the substrate with good current. <Is likely a Sebae then, as the E. quadricolor typically does not settle into the substrate. > Purple Tipped anemone (very healthy!) <No, unfortunately, it is not healthy, but it can be saved with some effort.> Coral beauty Maroon Clown Algae Blenny Cleaner Shrimp Many snails and blue leg hermits. <Be careful with the shrimp and crabs. Crabs can become predators, and shrimp can remove food from inside the anemone several hours after feeding.> I tend to agree with you, I think it was bleached and is regaining Zooxanthellae. <This unfortunately is not uncommon. Collection and shipping is very tough on anemones. Because this anemone is stressed, I recommend feeding about 1/3 of what you are feeding now, but feed daily until the anemone improves. Soaking the Silversides in Selcon will also help. Ideally you want to see longer tentacles, and some color. A white anemone is not a healthy anemone.> There you have it. Thanks again for any info. <You're welcome! Let me know if you need any further assistance. Brenda > Karl

H. crispa Health . . . perhaps too late 4-2-08 Good day to all of you at WWM, how are you? <> I have a friend that bought an Sebae anemone a few weeks ago and did no research on the species before he bought it. <<Unfortunate.>> He had way to small of a tank and not nearly enough lighting, and on top of that the species was already bleached. <<Not a good combination.>> After I saw it I told him that it was soon to die. <<Not an exaggeration on your part.>> He asked me to take it home to see if I could nurture it back to health, I reluctantly accepted knowing that his 2 CF bulbs over a 30g breeder was not enough for it in this state. <<Judging by your desire description it will be difficult to save this specimen even in ideal settings..healthy specimens have difficulty adapting to captive life for that matter.>> With that said, it is really not doing well at all and I would like to know if there is any chance of survival at this point, and what is the best route. <<See here; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm .>> My tank, 72g with 30g sump growing Chaeto, also live rock chamber and protein skimmer. Lighting is 2x250w MH 14k's, 4x54w T5's 2 10k 2 actinic. <<Is there a lot of surface area? Other Cnidarian life?>> I have had experience in keeping anemones before and currently have two larger RBTAs, I have also cared for three previous bleached BTAs with much success. But this specimen is new to me and more than that it is looking really bad. <<And if those other anemones are in the same system, they are all in danger, if the Sebae is in such bad health I would not risk the health of your other specimens.>> So on with the anemone, when I put it in the tank three days ago it did not want to attach, but at the same time it did not attach for the entire time my buddy had it. <<Not a good sign.>> So I put it in a spot with somewhat minimal flow as to not let it get blown around and it also had a little bit of shade. Well he found his way to the middle of an open spot of sand near the glass over the next couple of hours and buried his foot. I thought this to be a good sign. He also eat fairly well the first night and a few hours later looked like he was disgorging the waste. I then woke up this morning to him with his mouth almost completely inverted! expelling possible organs. There is no whole you can see straight through but this is obviously not good. In almost ten hours it has not gone down at all or closed at all. I have attached a picture to help. Just looking to see if there is any hope? <<Well hope is an abstract idea I don't completely understand so Ill talk logic. Statistically speaking you aren't looking at a successful arrangement. As cold as it may seem you may want to remove the Sebae before you place your other livestock at harm. I would say your first responsibility is to the animals which have the best chance at survival, don't compromise their health. Give the above link to your friend as well. Good luck, Adam J.>>

New Sebae Anemone, Inadequate Environment, More Research Needed 3/19/08 Dear WWM Crew, Good day to all. <Hello Shanon, Brenda here!> I am in a bit of a dilemma. I set up my system, through a local dealer, with the intentions of having a bubble tip anemone, a clownfish and other soft (possibly hard) corals. My system was set up with cured LR a 2 in. sand bed (some live sand) and left to cycle, after 1 week 2 blue damsels were placed in the system and my water tested regularly by the LFS. <Get in the habit of testing water parameters yourself.> After 6 weeks I began to add some mushrooms, zoo's and a maroon gl clown. When the system was 4 months old the bubble tip was added which continually wandered the tank. I discussed this with the salesman and he said this is common, that it hasn't found a spot where it is happy, but this should improve. <A 4 month old tank is much too young for an anemone.> It didn't, and I lost the bubble tip after about a month. I had been doing some research on the web, but I figured that it was a problem with that particular specimen. <The E. quadricolor (BTA), is the easiest to keep out of all the hosting anemones. > Several days ago I purchased a Sebae anemone (which seemed, to me, in excellent health), it also is faring poorly, shriveled with mouth gaping open. <Based on the pictures, I do not consider the mouth to be gaping open. Shriveling up is common with acclimation and expelling waste. What are you feeding? > I was told this was an African Sebae Anemone, does this exist?. <No. However, I have seen this term used. It is best to use the scientific name. > I began doing some intense research and have quickly realized that a salt water system is MUCH more complex than I realized. I have gone through each likely problem with the Anemone (through research on your site) and have corrected minor problems. The most significant problem I found is the lighting (and possibly protein skimmer), which I think is extremely low. This dealer is the only local dealer. I traveled to Indianapolis and visited several dealers, <Have you visited Premium Aquatics? See here: http://www.premiumaquatics.com > only to be blessed with more confusion (I was told that actinic lighting is the lighting source I need. <Actinic alone is not adequate.> Another said that PC is the best lighting. <Yikes! > All seemed confused when I mentioned metal halides. <Metal Halide or T-5 with individual reflectors is the best way to go with this anemone. However, a 16 gallon is much too small for an anemone. It will not do well in its current environment.> I have spent much time researching the lighting, it is very complex and time consuming. <Yes. > I fear the Sebae Anemone does not have the time. My system, as I understand it. Please excuse my lack of proper terminology and my ignorance of relevant information.....it is rapidly improving. 16 gallon, <Much too small for an anemone.> 7 months old 15 lb LR 2 in. sand bed Salinity 1.22 <Do you mean 1.022? It needs to be brought up slowly to 1.026. How are you testing this?> Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrates 0 Calcium 540 <High> pH ? <Knowing your pH is very important. > alkalinity ? phosphates .7 <This is too high, see here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm > Temp 78 Lighting Current-USA model #1136-18" Nova Extreme 1 18watt T5 HO 10K/ 1 18 watt T5 HO 460nm actinic (no timer, not sure of proper cycle) <This is not enough light for this anemone. Typical light cycle is 10-12 hours (assuming you have appropriate lighting).> Marineland Maxi-Jet 900 power head for water flow <Powerheads do not belong in tanks with anemones.> I have no protein skimmer, I was told with this size tank I could use a standard, hang on filtration (came with tank) .....(please advise if you differ in opinion and what brand, model you recommend). Stock: 1 maroon clownfish, 1 Sebae anemone, 1 Ricordea mushroom, 1 pulsing xenia, 2 zoos, 1 flaming scallop (am now aware of the issues) and some snails and crabs. <Crabs can be predators. If you must keep them, keep no more than 1 per 10 gallons. > All is well (though possibly not exceptional) except the anemone. Please advise on crowding/incompatibility issues. I hope to establish this tank and eventually upgrade to a larger system (possibly turning this tank into a breed specific (seahorse) tank. I would appreciate an answer as to how I can rectify the lighting issue (including brand, model) (as well as other issues I may not be aware of). Are larger wattage bulbs available for this model? <No.> If not, what are my other alternatives? <Returning the anemone until you can provide it with an adequate environment, and lots of research.> Unfortunately, though I absolutely love this hobby, money is an issue. <This is an expensive hobby. > I have already invested much more than originally anticipated, very possibly, on equipment useless to my cause. <Research before you purchase.> I want to pursue this hobby, but possibly with other alternatives. The beauty of the symbiotic relationship between a clown and its host is unsurpassable. <Yes. However, they are considered difficult to keep. Many rush into keeping an anemone, resulting in the death of the anemone. > My maroon clown is doing well. I have seen clowns host in a (what I was told was) toad stool. Would the toad stool flourish with my current lighting? <Yes.> Would my maroon gl clown accept it as a host? <Possibly. There is never a guarantee that a clownfish will host in captivity. > Thanks in advance, Shanon <You're Welcome! > p.s. I do believe the information from the dealer was presented with the absolute best of intentions. <Very possible! I have found that most sales people are not knowledgeable enough in anemone care. > In comparison to the other dealers I visited, I would rank my local dealer the highest. I think this is an industry with less than specific standards. I am still left, at this moment, with this unsettling issue. <Return the anemone and continue researching. Brenda>

Re: New Sebae Anemone, Inadequate Environment, More Research Needed 3/20/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Shanon!> Thank you for your response! <You're welcome!> I'm sad to hear my tank is too small for the anemone. My LFS has a tank that is yet smaller (maybe 10-12 gallon) which has a large bubble tip and a maroon clown. <Minimum tank size recommendation for this fish is 30 gallons.> The bubble tip appears healthy. <It wont stay healthy long term and this is a poor representation of how to care for these animals.> Will you please tell me the reasons why the anemone requires a larger tank (not to question your knowledge, but for my understanding) and what size tank would be suitable? <Anemones need pristine water conditions. The chances of this happening in a 16 gallon tank are slim. With a larger volume of water, the water quality decreases at a slower rate. Add the fact that you don't have a protein skimmer, the chances of survival have decreased even more. Ammonia is extremely toxic to anemones. When an anemone dies in a tank, it pollutes the water quickly. A dead anemone can wipe out even a much larger system. In a 16 gallon system, you will likely end up with nothing. Anemones also grow quickly. They can reach 18 or more. When they have outgrown their space, they move to find a more suitable place. There isn't going to be any space available to move to in your current system. This will cause stress on the anemone. Stress causes death. I recommend 40 50 gallons of water volume, or more, for anyone new to keeping anemones. I also recommend the tank be an established environment.> I am feeding krill to the anemone twice weekly, though he rejects it about an hour later. <Try smaller pieces until you can find the anemone a new home (1/8 sized portions).> I also feed Marine Snow twice weekly and Mysis shrimp every other day for the clown fish. <Mysis shrimp is also a good choice for the anemone. Marine Snow is useless for anemones. Anemones need raw meaty foods, no exceptions here.> I did mean salinity 1.022. <This is much too low for anemones; 1.026 is best.> I test it with a hydrometer (is this adequate?). The hydrometer says that 1.026 is out of the safe range. <1.026 is closer to normal salinity of the ocean.> I guess I need a lot more information to understand how the system works. <Keep researching. You will find many answers to your questions here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm also read through all the Related FAQs at the top of the above link.> If not power heads then what should be used for water flow? <Pumps need to be outside of the main display. I recommend a sump/refugium. Either will add more water volume. A refugium will allow you to grow macro algae. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm > I thought I needed the hermit crabs to clean the tank and keep nitrates down, is that wrong? <It is not wrong. However it is not the best option in such a small tank. I do keep hermit crabs. However mine are kept in the refugium. crabs are opportunistic feeders. They are known to kill small sleeping fish, eat polyps, snails, and bother anemones. > I believe the toad stool is the way to go for now. I would still like optimum lighting. I have not been able to find better lighting to fit my 18 inch tank width. Do you have a suggestion? <Check with the manufacturer or the place you purchased the set up to see if they offer a lighting upgrade. However, be careful that you don't add too much that you have heat issues.> Thank you for the info on the chemistry. <You're welcome!> I will start doing my own tests immediately. <Great!> I will be sad to see the anemone go but I think the toad stool is a good solution until I get a better understanding of my system and upgrade to a larger tank. <Indeed.> Best regards, Shanon
<Good luck to you Shanon! Brenda>

Bleached Sebae Anemone, Zooxanthellae 3/14/08 <Hello Harold, Brenda here!> I am hoping you can answer a question about a new Sebae anemone I purchased one week ago. <Ill try.> The Sebae was pure white with blue tips and from what I have been reading a white Sebae is not a healthy Sebae due to the depletion of the needed Zooxanthellae. YIPES! <You are correct.> My tank is 120g (48x30x24) with 760W Metal Halide's. The Water parameters are: NO2 = 0 ppm Ammonia = 0ppm NO3 = 0 ppm PH = 8.2 Alkalinity = 300ppm <What is your salinity and temperature?> So, I believe I have enough lighting and suitable water parameters but the Sebae continues to slip onto its side. I have a mated pair of true Percula clowns that have "bonded" with the anemone and it would break my heart to think that it may not make it... <It is best to keep the clownfish away from this anemone.> The anemone is currently residing on the bottom of the tank next to live rock. Should I move it to the top of the live rock or should I just leave it alone? <Leave it alone.> I fed it Formula 1 today and it took in a portion of the cube but the remainder was ate by the clowns. <It is good to hear the anemone is eating.> What are some suggestions you can make to help me save my newest addition or am I overreacting? <You are not over reacting. A picture would help me a lot here. I do suggest feeding Silversides soaked in Selcon. I would feed very tiny pieces daily for now. Can you move the clownfish to another tank for a while?> Thank you so much for your time and attention. Harold <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Bleached Sebae Anemone, Zooxanthellae... no referral... - 3/15/08 Thank you Brenda for your help! <You are welcome!> I picked up some Silversides soaked a piece in Selcon and fed it to the Anemone this afternoon. <Excellent!> The Sebae ate the piece of Silverside but continued to leave his mouth open and then "pucker up" for about two hours. (I've been a "worry wart" so I continued to watch it....) The Salinity is 1.022 <Your salinity is much too low! Gradually bring up to 1.026. Do this by topping off daily with pre-mixed saltwater mixed to 1.026. Once you have reached 1.026, go back to topping off with RO or RODI. I must stress here, this must be done slowly. It will take days. Anemones do not like change. Changing any parameters too fast will add more stress, likely resulting in death with this one.> and the temp is 80 degrees Fahrenheit. <Perfect!> I've included pictures taken during my 2 hour watch. <Yes, I see them. The anemone is not healthy, but does have hope! I do have some concern over the shrimp that is in the picture. Is it bothering the anemone? They have a tendency to steal food from them, several hours after the feeding.> Thank you again for your guidance! <You are welcome! If you run into any more problems/questions, don't hesitate to ask! Im keeping my fingers crossed for you both! Brenda>

<... RMF>

Follow up from 2/2/08 Zooxanthellae recovery in my Sebae. 6/22/08 Hello! I am following up from a long time ago about the Zooxanthellae recovery in my Sebae. He has gotten quite a bit darker, and has grown to about 9-10 inches in diameter. <Ahh, much better!> The only thing that is slightly weird is his mouth is ALWAYS SLIGHTLY open. Not gaping, just opened up a little bit. I have attached a picture of him right after feeding, and his mouth in the picture is open a little more then it usually is. <No worries> Sent you guys emails before, specifically Brenda and asked about Clownfish mating habits, but for some reason it didn't dawn on me about following up on the health of the Sebae. Whoops. Anywho, enjoy the pic! Thanks!
<Thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Unhealthy White Sebae Anemone, Expelled Zooxanthellae 2/20/08 Hello, <Hello Josh!> I am new to marine fish keeping (4 1/2 months) and have gotten my water quality to the point where I can now house corals in my tank. I have just a small 24 gallon nano-cube, 35 lbs live rock, 30 lbs live sand, protein skimmer, power compacts for lighting. Livestock: Percula clown, possum wrasse, coral beauty, and a brand new diamond watchman goby (to keep my sand looking nice and fresh). My fish are all rather small and don't seem to make much of an impact on my water quality since I perform water changes religiously. <Great!> My problem is that I recently purchased an all-white Sebae anemone. <Yikes!> He looked brilliant in the store, but shortly after I acclimated him to the tank (24-48hrs) he began to shrivel up, and has stayed that way for two days now... is he doing this because he is unhealthy or is he just possibly still adjusting to the water in my tank? <This anemone was unhealthy when you purchased it. A white anemone is an unhealthy anemone. When they are white, they have expelled their Zooxanthellae. Zooxanthellae is an algae that lives inside them and is needed for their long term survival.> I took a sample of water to the store before I purchased the anemone, and the clerk told me that my water quality was better than any of the tanks in the store. If he is unhealthy and starting to die, when should I get him out of the tank? <I would return the anemone to the place you purchased it or find someone local that is experienced with the recovery of anemones. A 4 month old, 24 gallon tank with PC lighting is not adequate for this anemone.> I have a business trip coming up in a few days where I will be away for almost a week... I really do not want to come home to disaster in my aquarium. My girlfriend can check on the tank while I am gone but she is not familiar with this at all... <Its time to find it a new home now. This anemone is going to continue to deteriorate in its current environment.> Thank you so much for your help. Josh <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Unhealthy White Sebae Anemone, Expelled Zooxanthellae 2/20/08 Thank You for the advice Brenda, <You're welcome!> I just returned from the store where I purchased it. They are willing to let me bring the anemone in and keep it for me until I return from my business trip. I purchased a very healthy looking bubble coral today that should take its place nicely... If I return from the trip and the anemone is looking healthy again, would it be a poor decision to bring it back home? <This anemone will not be healthy again any time soon. Recovering a bleached anemone takes months, and a lot of dedication. I don't recommend it.> Thanks again! Josh <You're welcome! Brenda>

Health of Sebae Partial Zooxanthellae Recovery 2/2/08 Keep up the great work on this site guys! <Hello, Brenda here, and Thank you!> Anywho, to the question. <Okay!> I got this Sebae when he was completely bleached. <Ouch!> Mail order, not a good idea. <Not always the best! Shipping is very stressful. However, this anemone may have been bleached before it was shipped. We unfortunately will never know the journey of this anemone.> Anyways, most of his tentacles are a deep brown. The pictures do not do his color justice, but the only part of him that hasn't turned into a light brown is in the left side of the second picture I believe. <Yes, I see this. This is a bit unusual. How long has this anemone been in your care? Typically when I see this sort of color pattern in anemones like this, I have to consider that this anemone may have previously been dyed. However, I am not convinced that this is the case here. If you would be so kind, I would like to see regular updates on this anemones progress.> Will he turn into a deeper brown then this, or is this as dark as he will get in a home aquarium? <It does appear to have some color, so I do believe Zooxanthellae are recovering in this area. What are you feeding? How often and what sized portions? What are your water parameters, specifically, temperature, salinity, pH, and alkalinity? What size tank, and what lighting are you using? How long has this tank been set up?> Thanks a bunch! <You welcome! Brenda>

Re: Health of Sebae, Partial Zooxanthellae Recovery 2/7/08 I usually switch feedings of frozen Mysis, plankton, prime reef, mega marine and formula one. I usually feed the tank 1-2 times per week. The anemone gets a piece about half the size of his mouth. <Good!> Temperature is 77-79, salinity is at 1.024(I've been raising very slowly to .026 for awhile now). pH is almost always steady at 8.2, and alkalinity is at 10 dKH. It is a 30g tank, with 250w MH. The tank has been set up almost 10 months now. The Sebae has been in there for about 2. I think that is about it! <It sounds like it has come a long ways in two months! Great job! Brenda>

Sebae Anemone, Possibly Regurgitating, Stressed from Collection/Shipping 01/21/08 Hello. <Hello Pam, Brenda here!> I bought a Sebae Anemone about 3 weeks ago. I didn't realize it when I bought him, but when I bought him, he was bleached. (see attached picture). I didn't realize they are supposed to be tan or brown. He has been doing very well. He settled right into the spot where I put him in my tank. He's very tacky. He seems to be eating. I have him on the sand bed, and he has butted himself against the wall of my rock structure. He hasn't budged from this spot since I put him there 3 weeks ago. I have 150w Metal Halide and 4 24w t5's. <What size tank? How long has the tank been set up?> 10 days after I brought him home, my Percula started hosting in him. That was about a week ago, and the Anemone has been doing fine. I left for work this morning, and the Sebae looked beautiful. My 15 year old son just called me and told me something was wrong with him and it was freaky looking (my son rarely glances at the tank, so something has to be really wrong). He said something really big is coming out of his mouth... big as in a couple inches. Could he be expelling his stomach? <It sounds like it is expelling waste, or has regurgitated. What are you feeding, how often and what sized portions? What other livestock do you have in the tank?> My son tried to take a picture on his cell phone to send to me, but I couldn't make out anything in the picture. I will get out of work as soon as I can and run home, but I'm an hour away. Is there anything I can do for this Sebae if it's his stomach? I can send a picture later. If it's his stomach...does that mean he's dying? <It may be stressed from wild collection and shipping. This is often times deadly to anemones. Providing an adequate environment and time is all you can do for it.> My son said the rest of the Anemone looks ok, just something coming out of the mouth and the clown is still hosting it. Parameters: Salinity 1.026 PH: 8.3 Alk: 8 dKH Nitrites, Nitrates and Ammonia all zero. Phosphates: between 0 and .1 Calcium 390 Magnesium 1170, Temperature 80 degrees, Flow: 25x display. Thanks, Pam <Hope this helps! Brenda>

Re: Sebae Anemone, Possibly Regurgitating, Stressed from Collection/Shipping 01/21/08 Hi Brenda <Hello Pam!> Oh my goodness! This is so funny. I came home, and the Anemone had moved into a cave. I looked at him, and he looked fine except that he had moved (strange because he hadn't moved in 2 weeks since I put him into my tank). I asked my son, if maybe the Anemone was upside down, and he was looking at his foot. My son said..."OH...yea...that's it.. I didn't know they had a foot". He must have flipped upside down, then flipped himself and moved into the cave, or the current took him in there. He wasn't expelling anything at all and looks fine!! Yay! I don't know if I should have left him in the cave or not, but I moved him back to his regular spot. <Unfortunately, when an anemone of this type starts flipping itself upside down, it is usually bad news.> Now if the darn clown would stop stealing his food! It's not that the clown is eating it...he's just kicking it out. I stood guard for a while, but as soon as I took my arm out of the tank, the clown went and dug out the small piece of silverside I had put in. I thought he was trying to eat it, but he isn't. He just threw it away. <Try placing a strawberry basket that you find at the grocery store over the anemone until it is able to eat. Since your anemone is stressed, feed small portions daily. I would start by trying a 1/8 piece once a day. Gradually increase the size, but never feed anything larger than its mouth. Once the anemone has recovered, you can feed 2 3 times a week. I would suggest using silversides, krill, or Mysis shrimp. Stay away from brine shrimp, it is not nutritional enough for anemones.> So anyway, the Anemone is fine. It isn't regurgitating anything. He had just flipped himself upside down....or the current did. Thanks! Pam <You're welcome and good luck to you! Brenda>

Thank you Brenda. <You're welcome!> The strawberry basket is a great idea. I'll give that a try. I have been cutting up the Silverside and only feeding it about 1/8 of a whole silverside. <Try a 1/8 inch piece. You don't want to stress the anemone any more than collection and shipping has already caused.> I also bought some krill. He deflated SO much last night several hours after I got home, and I thought oh, this isn't good at all. <It does not sound good.> He was probably only a 10th of his normal size. Woke up this morning, and he was nice and inflated again. I have a feeling it's going to be touch and go for a while, but I am determined to be patient and nurse him back to complete health. Have a great day. <You too!>
Pam
<Good luck to you Pam! Brenda>

Sebae Anemone Failing Quickly, Inadequate Environment... Brenda... refer 1/5/08 Hi, <Hello, Brenda here!> I really need your help. My tank has been running for three months. I have a 55 gal. w/approx 60 lbs live rock, 1 blue tang, 1 clown, 3 damsels, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, 2 peppermint shrimps, 7 Ricordea, mushrooms, and 1 hammer. We do weekly water changes of 7 gallons at a time. My problem is my Sebae who is deflated and has a white liquid coming from the bottom and what appears to be a fleshy tissue that almost looks like cotton. <Yikes! Your tank is not ready for an anemone. Anemones need an established environment, 6 months to one year minimum. How long has this anemone been in your tank? What are your exact water parameters, including temperature, salinity, pH, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, calcium, and alkalinity? I need to know what equipment you have on the tank, including your lighting, skimmer, amount of flow, etc.> He had been eating fine up to 2 days ago when he began to not take the food in. He has been eating krill because that is what they were feeding him at the store that we purchased him from and since he didn't accept that we tried brine and Mysis shrimp and also plankton. <Brine shrimp is not an appropriate food for anemones, unless it is newly hatched brine shrimp.> Nothing worked until last night when he did take in 2 pieces of krill. <This is too much food for one feeding. With unhealthy anemones, I recommend food portions to be about 1/8 in size (or less). Over feeding can cause regurgitation, leaving the anemone with no food.> Today he looks awful almost a grayish color. I have sent a few pics of before and after and I just don't know what to do with the little guy. If you could help me I would be eternally grateful. We are new to this and your web site has been a huge help in problem solving. <Unfortunately, your anemone is in very poor health. It is best to return it to the place you got it, or find someone with an adequate environment, that is experienced in the recovery of anemones. I also suggest you research all of your livestock before you purchase. More information on anemones can be found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm I also recommend reading through the FAQs.> I appreciate all that you do for us out here! Keep up the knowledge because we need you! Thank you again! <You're welcome! Brenda>

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