T5's without Individual reflectors..not enough? 01/19/09
Crew,
<Jessy here>
Quick question about my 75 gallon SPS reef. I'm trying to be as patient as I can be with this …but I'm getting frustrated! I have a 9 month old SPS reef with around 5 Acros and 4 Montiporas. I run a current Nova Extreme 8 bulb fixture… 8 54 watt ATI bulbs without individual reflectors. My growth has been extremely disappointing! I see pictures on RC of Monti caps that grow an inch a month… time have grown half inch in 5 months. Some of my sps are showing decent growth though..My birds nest sits on the bottom and grows about 3/8" per month(it's in low flow, most of my other corals are in high
flow). My Acros are sitting high up, all are growing at a snails pace minus my red milli, it's grown about a ½ inch over the last 3 months. Colors are great and all parameters are in check(minus salinity that I address later) I'm considering upgrading to the new ATI sunpower. It's only 6 bulbs but has great individual reflectors. Will this be a lot more intense light than my 8 bulbs under 1 big reflector? Last question is about my salinity. I recently purchased a refractometer and calibrated it using the provided instructions. Last week it measured my salinity at 1.31!!!!! I've slowly been bringing it down and it's currently at 1.26-1.27. There's no telling how long my salinity has been this high..I've been using a hydrometer. Can high salinity slow growth? Thanks so much for your time and help!
Seth
<Seth, don't make the mistake of going out and buying more equipment to fix a problem with poor husbandry. Shedding more light on your corals will only lead to more problems with algae or worse, bleaching. 8 bulbs on a 75 gallon tank is PLENTY. I run only 8 54w bulbs on my 150g reef and have great growth on my SPS. To answer your question YES salinity is a HUGE problem for corals if it is as high as it was in your tank. That could be the singular problem right there. Since you didn't provide tank parameters I can't comment on what "all parameters are in check" means. But, you should also be testing for Phosphates in addition to Alk, Ca, and Mag. Get your salinity in order and make sure your tank is healthy and you'll see growth. Don't waste your money on new lights. Jessy>

Lighting Cnidarians, 75 gal., T 5s      1/7/09
Hi crew,
<Hi Marc, Minh at your service.>
Real quick one. Just would like your opinion. I have 220 watts of t5 lighting on a 75 gallon tank. One actinic bulb, two 18k bulbs, and one 10k bulb. Do you think this would be enough lighting for mushrooms, and leather corals? Cauliflower, Finger, and Toadstool leathers. Also do you think it would be sufficient for some LPS, mostly would like to add a Frogspawn, Torch or Hammer coral.
<Although there are many varieties of T5 lighting each with different performance capabilities based on the brand of bulb, type of ballast and reflectors used, the average T5 set up should be more than adequate for the corals you want to keep. To find out performance data on your particular set up, you can visit this excellent lighting information page:
http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com.>
Thanks again,
Marc
<You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>  

T5 Lighting 11/17/08
Hi guys. Ben from Sydney Australia here once again.
<G'day mate ;) Jessy here>
So sorry to post this question kind of twice but I made a mistake.
<Its okay. Let's see what you got>
Ok, so I finally got my 8x 54 watt T5 tubes over the top of my 120 cm 120 gal reef tank. And am running 2x 36 watt T8 tubes as well in between the two T5 fixtures.
<Now that's a lot of light!>
Now what I thought were 10000k tubes are not. There actually 14000k tubes.
I'm struggling to find an answer to this so here I go again. I have two questions.
The configuration I have done is 4x 14000k tubes and 4x 20000k tubes in a mix. so one of each beside each other. With 2 x T8 actinic tubes.
What do you think of this configuration? Will it keep corals growing nicely and is it enough light?
<Light is PLENTY and it should do its part in growing corals nicely, although lighting is not the only element in growing coral... water quality and flow should also be on your top priority list if your corals are to grow at peek efficiency>
Or should I add some different tubes? I have another 4x 14000k tubes left over as spares also.
<The color combo you have now is fine for healthy corals, any adjustments hereafter would be for color spectrum preference. I too have 8 T5 bulbs over my reef and have opted for 4 blue bulbs, ONE 12K bulb, 2 purple (true actinic) and one pink pro color bulb. This is a much bluer spectrum and it is how I prefer my reef to look. I still get great coral growth under this lighting system.>
Now my other question is can I keep SPS coral under these lights? Any ideas are much appreciated.
<Yes, you should have no problem at all keeping SPS under it. Just be careful if you are transferring any existing livestock to this new lighting set up. T5s are very intense and you don't want to bleach your corals.
Start them low and work their way up.>
Very sorry to rehash my question but I've been confused and found it hard to find a answer.
Thank you very much guys.
<Hope that helps>
Also I recently got back from my yearly 2 week fishing and diving trip on a remote island on the great barrier reef. As I work in a fishing tackle shop and love fishing as much as my aquariums. Both seem to cross over nicely.
It really is spectacular and I'm blessed to be able to spend time up there. We got some massive coral trout and large Trevally and other large reef fish.
All released as well to fight another day as we practice catch a release fishing as well as crushing the barbs.
<Sounds like fun!>
Anyways I'm rambling. Cheers for your time.
Thanks . Ben Smith.
<Regards, Jessy>

Lighting Help…T5s On A Deep Tank? – 10/16/08
Hello everyone.
<<Greetings>>
My question is, I have a 155 gallon saltwater tank 4 feet long by 2 feet wide by 2 ½ feet deep. Would I need metal halide to keep anything other than softies or could I get high output T-5 lighting?
Thanks
<<Though this tank is considered “deep” at 30” for reef keeping, the T5s can work. By maximizing the number of bulbs over the tank (use as many as you can)…keeping “blue” bulbs to a minimum (no more than 30% to maximize useful light penetration)…and utilizing careful placement of livestock in regards to their height within the water column (e.g. – lower light demanding species toward the bottom and higher light demanding species toward the top)…I think you could keep just about anything you could otherwise with MH lighting. Regards, EricR>>

T-5 lighting? – 06/29/08
I have a 90 gallon marine aquarium. It is 24 inches tall. How many 54 Watt T-5 bulbs do I need on this tank to keep lower light corals, such as
mushrooms, yellow polyps or green star polyps? Is four of these bulbs on this tank enough? I do not want to get into keeping the higher light corals, because I do not want to have the trouble of trying to keep the tank cool.
<I do believe this would be sufficient light for mushrooms and some polyps. For good pigmentation more may be needed for things like GSPs. Ultimately, color temperature of the bulbs will play a big part- 4 10k bulbs will go a long way toward photosynthesis, as opposed to a mix of color temperatures. Benjamin>

Yet another T5 lighting question 6/27/08
Good evening WWM crew.
<Hi Jo Anne, Pufferpunk/Jeni here with you tonight.>
I wrote a few days ago about my two maxima clams. Just a quick recap: We have had them for approximately 6 weeks. They seem to gape slightly after the lights have been on for about one hour. The tank is 125g Acrylic tank. (60X24X18 if I remember correctly) We currently have 4 80w T5, 2-10 or 11K Aquablue and 2-Actinic plus. The brand of light is Giesemann. A. Nixon felt the problem was our lighting. Being they were under T5's at the store and from reading about the clams, I learned that although MH is preferred but T5's can work. I believe WWM's recommendation is 4w/gallon of light, which we fall short of. I want to remedy the situation and give these clams a fighting chance. Our tank was originally a FO tank, so it is in a cabinet with a matching wooden hood. My husband decided he wanted a reef tank and we've slowly made changes. I have since become what he calls obsessed with this tank. I am not sure how I could modify this for MH lights economically. I also am not sure I how I can jam at the least 500w of T5's as this would be the minimum to meet the 4w/gallon rule, without starting all over with lighting. (And possibly being served divorce papers) Any ideas? Also I read in Dana Riddle's book that T5's actually have higher PAR than MH. Is that true? If that is the case is can 500w of MH be compared to 500w T5 or PC for that matter.
<It is my experience that T5s are just as good as MH. I am a big fan of T5s & keep clams & SPS under them. I do think you need more of them though. You need at least 1 Daylight bulb. I would think with a DIY kit, you should be able to fit several more bulbs under that canopy than 4. I have 6 bulbs over my 90g & probably room for 1 more. Be sure though that each bulb has an individual reflector above it.>
One more quick question, I read that keeping the cover over the top of the aquarium also can decrease lighting. I would pull them but I do have a blue tang. I read they can be jumpy. I want to do what is best for my charges.
<If you're speaking of a glass cover, then yes, remove it--the canopy should prevent your fish from jumping. Not only will it diffuse the light but it will cause your tank to overheat. You can screen in the open back of your canopy if you wish with nylon screening, although I haven't heard of tangs being common jumpers.
Don't forget to dose calcium for the clams. ~PP>
Thank you for your time, Jo Anne

Re: Upgrading from PC to T5?
Bye Bye PC- Hello T5 (cont'd.) 5/27/2008
Hi again...
<Hey there!>
I have been looking on eBay and found this fixture which is a T6HO... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330239301797&_trksid=p2759.l1259 ...Do you think this would work fine?
<Not familiar with this one.> Also, I've been reading that using individual reflectors for each bulb is extremely beneficial.
<Most good quality T5 fixtures incorporate individual reflectors. This is one of the keys to the quality of T5 lighting.>
Do you know if any are available for a T6 light?
<Good question. I'm really not sure of that one. You'll have to do some searching among online vendors and lighting specialty companies.>
Would the TEK light reflectors for a T5 work?
<I don't believe that the clips will work with T6's. I would contact the helpful folks at Sunlight Supply for more support on this one. Regards, Scott F.>

Lighting Choices, N.O. VS. T-5  – 04/16/07
Hello to all the crew!
<Hello.>
While reading some of the articles I noticed that Bob states that NO Fluorescent Full Spectrum Daylight/Sunlight in the 5000 to 6000 K range are the best light systems to use.
<Mmm...this is very dependant on the size and type of the system. And if there will be photosynthetic animals in the system, what type?>
Metal Halide and Actinic do not seem to impress him much.
<I haven't seen that myself in his writings, but I do think he tends to warn people against over lighting aquariums.>
I was wondering if this is still Bob's view?
<See my first comment...>
And if possible can you tell me what he thinks of T-5 lighting?
> what I have seen of his comments on these systems, I would surmise he finds them favorable.  I think T-5 HO systems are great personally.  The bulb life makes them economical, they don't produce much heat, and their low profile allows them to be paired with "awesome" reflectors.>
I am building a 24"L x 24"W x 22"H plywood system and the lights are the next thing to buy. If NO will work this will save some cash on the fixture I need. The option I am considering now is a T-5 retrofit kit from Nova Extreme using four bulbs.
> the height of the tank, and the proposed photosynthetic livestock you mentioned I would not go with the NO, go with the VHO or T-5 HO lighting..>
The Livestock, which are currently in a 55 gallon non-drilled system with no sump, will be Zoanthid and Mushroom Coral, fish will be a mated pair of Clarkii Clowns and a Bicolor Blenny.
<See above.>
Thank you in advance.
<Welcome.>
John.
<Adam J.>

Shedding A Little Light ON T5 Fluorescents
Hi folks,
<Hello! Scott F. with you today!>
Thanks for your excellent website ... it's become daily reading and I'm in serious danger of 'late arrival' if I treat myself to a quick (ha!) look before leaving for work in the morning.
<I can relate!>
Can I ask a very basic question? In the near future (I hope) I'm going to treat myself to a 5' x 2' x 2' tank to replace my Rio 180. This will be for soft corals and fish...
<Sounds like my kind of tank!>
and so I'm going for T5 fluorescent lighting, built into the hood. My LFS makes excellent tanks, and they come complete with sliding cover glasses. Providing I keep these algae free is their impact on lighting quality (e.g. filtering out UV) to be ignored. Thanks, Brian
<Good question, Bryan. I have not personally used T5's yet, but if we use some of the common "wisdom" applied to the use of VHO fluorescents, I'd venture to say that you might lose some qualities of the light (perhaps some spectral characteristics or intensity) if it is filtered by a cover glass. May be a better route to use water proof end caps and go sans cover glass. You may want to post on the WWM Forum to see what other T5 users are doing...Be sure to share your findings on this! Regards, Scott F

Lighting across the pond: T5 technology 8/7/03
Hi Team,
<cheers my friend>
Graham from Scotland here, I have been reading all your fantastic items on fw-sw conversions and have now changed my tank over and cycling at present,
<excellent to hear, mate!>
Tank is 42"x22"x20" with Fluval 404 filter, I will be purchasing an Aqua -c Remora in Orlando in September (holiday),
<ahh... very nice>
300w Visitherm, single 36" Aqua Glo tube, Substrate is coral sand and tufa rock, I will be adding LR as soon as I sort out my lighting which I am totally confused after reading so many articles, I fancy the Power compact route but we don't have such a thing here in U.K as far as I know,
<actually... it is my least favorite technology of the modern choices. While PC does produce very good quality light... it has very poor penetration of water at depth... and lamps are a poor value (lifespan). MH are a very good bang for your buck... but those brilliant T5s you have in the UK may be best of all!>
I don't want to go into MH system as I don't intend to go into sps corals, but I do fancy a couple of anemones for percula clowns which will be my first purchase when ready, We have over here ' T5' lighting which im not too clued up on, Do you know much about this,?
<yes... quite excellent by all measures. You would only need to use MH for a deeper tank (say 70 cm or deeper) and especially so with clams and sps corals>
would it be suffice or can I just buy another Twin starter for Actinicx1 & Marine white x1 (ordinary fluorescents), my tank is built into a wall in my living room with access to tank via a cupboard in hall, so I can make up my own method of hanging lights when I decide what to use. Many thanks in advance, Graham Easton
<alas... the standard output fluorescents really are dreadful for even the least demanding marines. Do consider those delightful T5s. With kind regards, Anthony>

T-5's... yes - seeing the light 4/28/04
Hey guys,
<Hiya>
I currently run power compacts on my 100 gal tank. My question is are the t-5 light setups worth the money for my reef?
<they are a much better quality and value IMO... yes>
Lighting now is 260 watts the t-5 I want are 440. Erik Lobe
<yes... likely to make a tremendous difference. Even with the 440 watts of t-5, you are just beginning to approach the average light needed for most inverts (4-5 watts per gallon). Your 260 watts at present is modest/too low for most corals. Anthony>

Lighting opinion - T5s for aquaria 3/26/04
Anthony, Thank you for your response. So it sounds like you are saying that T5's would provide better quality ( more intense ? )  light than the VHO's? Matt
<I feel that T5 lighting is the best fluorescent choice presently. Anthony>

LUMINAIRE T-5 LIGHTING 6/14/04
Hi what do you know about the a/m. Is this comparable to metal halide or VHO? Is it suitable for a marine reef system?  Brent D. Johnston
<I am not sure what you are specifically asking about, so I will answer very generally.  As long as the spectrum is acceptable (mostly an aesthetic choice, in my opinion) T-5's are excellent reef tank lighting.  Do keep in mind that the lamps are not yet widely available and I would suggest that you compare the replacement cost to that of VHO before choosing.
All fluorescent technologies get about the same amount of light per watt.  T-5's simply emit that light from a thinner lamp.  This makes them look more intense to the eye.  A thinner lamp also casts less of a shadow on it's own reflected light and allows for more efficient reflector designs.  More lamps can also be placed in the same amount of space.  If you choose T-5, look for an enclosure that is designed to capitalize on these advantages.
By using enough lamps, you can match the intensity of Metal Halides with any light source, but some T-5 fixture more accurately duplicate the "point source" nature of halides by packing a lot of lamps into a small area.  Hope this helps!  Adam>

VHO, T5, PC Lumen Comparison
Rob,
Do you know where I can find a lumen output comparison of VHO, T5 & Power Compact? Can't seem to find one anywhere. I was told the new T5 lamps actually have more lumen output than even Power Compact bulbs. Would love to see some stats on this.  Thanks, Rob
<I am not sure that such a comparison exists, and if it does only a few brands/models are probably compared.  The bottom line is that the differences in efficiency between types of florescent lamps in terms of lumens/watt is probably trivial.  PC's and especially T-5's are brighter because they pack the watts into a smaller package which also allows more lamps to be placed in the same amount of space and permits more efficient reflector designs.  Smaller lamps also cast a smaller shadow (this is not a trivial consideration), and double ended lamps (as opposed to the "horse shoe" design of PC's) allows light exiting the sides of the lamp to be reflected downward as opposed to shining onto the adjacent tube.  I hope this helps.  Adam>

T-5 Lighting
Dear Crew,
Firstly, love your site. After keeping freshwater tanks for over 30 years I've finally taken the plunge and have just set up a marine tank. Marine systems are so much more confusing than freshwater (i.e. there are so many different opinions as to how to set up a marine system), and your site has provided lots of information to help me understand what the alternatives are. << You're right, they are far more complicated. >> (Deciding which alternative to go with however was still confusing, but your help was wonderful!)
In the end I decided to go with a set up suggested by a LFS as I have been frequently admiring their marine display tank for the last 16 years. (Many of the LFSs in my area have only been carrying marines for a few years, and so I took comfort in a shop that has such a successful decade and a half old display tank!)
I have a 48x14x24 inch (length, width, depth) tank with live rock which accounts for about 15-20% of the volume of the tank. My filtration is a trickle filter with bio-balls and a protein skimmer. (I considered a DSB, but my wife freaked out at the thought of having a quarter of the tank taken up by sand. I'll see how things go, and may in the future get a much larger sump into which I can put a DSB or plenum filter if the current set-up doesn't keep the tank chemistry satisfactorily.) << I really like this idea. >> I plan on making a 5% water change every week (or 10% a fortnight). I also use RO water for evaporation replacement.
Anyway...after nearly a month of cycling I have just added my first fish 2 days ago, a coupled pair of clownfish (Perculas). The LFS suggested that I add an anemone as, although it is not essential, in their experience these fish are happiest (and healthier and more colourful) if they have one to play in. << I'm still not really buying that argument. >> I don't remember the name of the anemone (I know, I should have
written it down!) but its pink/purplish with bright purple ends to the tentacles which are themselves about one inch or more long. The anemone itself is about 10 inches wide. The clownfish seem very happy with it and don't stray very far or long from it. The anemone quickly moved itself to the side of the tank (half anchored to the bottom glass, half anchored to the side glass) where it has stayed.
Finally, onto my question. Lighting is the one thing that I haven't finalized yet. I currently have a single T8 Fluoro tube which is only a very short term stop-gap measure until I decide what lighting to get. (I hadn't bothered finalizing this issue as I wasn't originally planning on getting any invertebrates until several months later.) After a bit of research I thought I should get some MH lighting, but wifey is again adding her aesthetic 2 cents worth and does not like the idea of large lights suspended or lofted above the tank. << She needs to see halides on a tank and beautiful the tank will look. >> After reading up more about them, the need to add a chiller and the probability of much higher evaporation has also given me a few concerns (although I do love the light ripple effect that they give off!). After more research, I came across T-5 lighting and have been wondering if this is the compromise that will keep both my wife and anemone happy. << T-5 lights are fine, but you need a ton of them. >> I live in Australia and currently we only have NO fluors and MH in
common supply. T5 lighting is just starting to become available here and should be more common in the coming months. I was thinking of getting 4x55w T5 lights. I have been doing as much research on these as I can but most of the available info is from manufacturers. The only WWM references I could find were a couple of forum opinions, one stating T5 life is much shorter than claimed, and another stating that they are useless beyond 18 inches. In a question to WWM about a year ago, Andrew (or was it Anthony - I couldn't refind the question) stated that T5s should be fine up to a depth of 60cm.
As that reply was a year ago when the lights were very new, has any further information/views/opinions been formed on this lighting? Will 4x55w T5s keep << You can do just fine with T-5's but you need to fill your canopy with them.  I would recommend like 8 of them at 48 inches long on your tank.  When you add that up, you may be better (and I would advise you) to get 4 VHO tubes.  I really think you will enjoy them more than the T-5's. >>
my anemone happy in a 24 inch deep tank?
Thanks very much for your thoughts. << Good luck. >>
Craig
<<  Blundell  >>

How Many T-5 Lights
Thanks for the quick feedback. Unfortunately we don't have VHO down here, only NO fluors and MH, with T5s just starting off. You suggested that if I use T5s I should have 8 of them. Again unfortunately I don't think I can fit any more than 4 T5s (with reflectors) under my hood. Would 4 T5s keep my  anemone (a radiatus I've been told) alive, or do I really need to go for MH. << You don't need metal halide.  Four t-5's is fine, but I would still try to get as many bulbs in there as you can. >>
Thanks again. << Good Luck >>
Craig
<<  Blundell  >>

T-5 Lighting on a 72 gal
WWM Crew:
<< Blundell here. >>
Hope all is well.
As I hunt for my lighting answer my LRS explained that PC actinic bulbs loose useful blue spectrum very fast, and that VHO or HO would be a better choice for my goals (Hammer, Frogspawn, elegance). I am wondering what your opinion would be on the sunlight supply t5 fixtures over these corals in 20" deep 72 gallon tank. << I think they are excellent additional lights.  I would go with VHO for actinic, or even a 20k halide.  A 72 gal tank is big enough to warrant larger lighting systems in my mind. I do like T-5's, but would recommend you have 8 of them over a tank that size. >> Will the corals thrive on 4 of these HO bulbs?
<< I wouldn't say thrive.  They may live, but to thrive I would definitely up the lighting. >>
Thanks,
Eddie
<<  Blundell  >>

How many T-5's for my 40 gal?
Bob,
<< Blundell this morning. >>
I heard you were somewhat up to speed on the newest T5 HO bulbs. << I have had a few of them. >> I am trying to decide on a 4x39W unit or to spend the extra dough on a 6x39. My objective is to add a little more light than I have with my 2x96W pc and change up the spectrum a bit with the 4 or 6 bulbs. My tank is 36x18x16 and from the top of the water to the top of the sandbed is only 12" or 13" to top of edge. I only have soft, LPS and rose anemones in there now. However, would like to put in some moderate light SPS too. Would the 4x39W be enough light for my 40 gallon? Hard to judge with the lower wattage bulbs. I am afraid that the 6 bulb fixture being too big considering my tank is only 18" wide. << Well here is what I would do.  I would go with four.  You can always squeeze more in later if you want to.  With that being said, you can't have too much light, so adding six is fine.  But even if you add six, I would add four first, then add two more later.  That size tank (similar to what I have) is difficult to light.  You're correct that the small width of the tank will make it challenging, but I think adding four bulbs is a good idea. >> What is your opinion on the 4 or 6 bulb. Also, do you believe that the lumen output of the 39W T5 bulb is in fact more than a 96W PC as rumors say? << No, I don't.  But, you can fit lots of T-5's in a small space, so that makes up for it. >>
Thanks,
Rob
Charlotte, NC
<< Blundell, in the lab >>

T5 Lighting and Corals
Hi,
I have a question about light intensity of T5 HO lighting.
I have 29 Gallon 18" deep tank with 4 24W T5HO bulbs with highly polished reflectors. Bulbs I have are 2 6000K sun, 1 Blue and 1 Actinic. How many watts per gallon is 96 watt of T5 equivalent to or 3.3 watt per gallon of T5 light equivalent to. Most of T5 HO lighting discussions that I've read say that T5 Lighting has more light intensity per watt then other fluorescent lighting and I like to know exactly how much more light is more.
<Equivalent in terms of intensity... compared with VHO, HO fluorescents? PAR values? More by double...>
Actually, I wanted to know if I can add corals with moderate lighting needs in my tank with my current lighting.
Thanks you,
Hans
<Yes... even high light and quality stony corals will do well under your light regimen. Bob Fenner>

PC's or T-5's
Hello Crew,
I have a 55 gal.  tank with a pair of  false Perculas, a pair of Firefish and some basic corals (mush, polyps leathers). The  tank is currently lit with 4 - 55 Watt PC's.  The lights will need replacing soon and I would like to get a bubble tip anemone for the clowns.  I do not want to get into MH's for various reasons and have seen conflicting info about the feasibility of keeping anemone's without them. Question is  as I need to replace the bulbs soon anyway (cost about 100$) would it be worthwhile to convert to T5 lighting? << Only if you can fit more bulbs in there.  Otherwise, I don't really see an advantage to this. >> Cost for retrofit kit w/ 4 54 watt bulbs is 329$ I looked for Q & A onT5's earlier and could not find anything.  
<< Well if not halides, you may consider VHO.  But since you already have ballasts and a fixture, I'd go with replacing the pc's. >>
Thanks again - Kevin H.
<<  Blundell  >>

Assembling a T5 TEK Retro System 5/2/08
Hi, I just found your site and I need help.
<Hello, ok.>
I recently decided to upgrade from just power compacts on my 55 gal. saltwater tank. Making a long story short
I got a deal or thought I did) on a 36" T5 system retro system. Unfortunately, it arrived unassembled and I wondered if anyone has assembled one as the system arrived without instructions. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks, Mark
<A link below with the manufacturer’s step by step instructions. Have fun, Scott V.>
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/literature/retrofit_instructions.pdf

Acrylic Cover and Lights 4/9/08
Hello,
<Hello Mick.>
First, thank you for this wonderful site. I have picked up many helpful tips in the past.
<Good to hear, the site is an honor to be part of.>
I plan to upgrade my aquarium setup with a new acrylic tank. The acrylic tank has an acrylic cover (of course). My question is this...can I use a normal T5 light fixture (216 Watts total), sitting directly over the acrylic cover...such as the Nova Extreme T5 fixture, but without the mounting legs?
<I would use the mounting legs here.>
My concern is the heat of the lamps and the acrylic. Will it warp or discolor the acrylic, or worse....melt or catch fire? As you can tell, I am a total novice, and I don't have any experience with acrylic tank or T5 lighting.
Thank you for your time,
Mick
<These lights don’t produce the intense heat in one particular spot that the MH bulbs produce, but do generate a fair bit nonetheless (any lighting will per the wattage in the bulb). Mounting the lights on legs just a few inches of the acrylic is a good idea. Not only for the sake of the acrylic, but also for heat transfer into the tank, a few inches can make a huge difference. Welcome, Scott V.>

T5 options
Reef Lighting 3/31/08
Hello everybody, thanks for your website, and time, you guys are awesome!
<Thank you.>
I have what seems to be an uncommon T5 problem. I have had a Current USA 4-54 watt 48" fixture for 2 years now, and have enjoyed it overall. My problem is that it has a single fan on one end, so it pulls cool air in through the opposite end of the fan, across the bulbs, then out the fan end. The light has literally cooked and burnt the plastic connectors on the fan end, and parts of the plastic pieces have cracked and fallen out. It still works, but I don't like the overall way things are going in there!
<Mmm, the fan blades do need to be cleaned, at least monthly. Dust does accumulate and can hamper the efficiency of the fan.>
Up to now, the lights were on a mildly planted 90 gallon tank, but I got bored, and switched it back to salt a couple weeks ago (my real interest :-)). I want to keep it relatively simple. My last salt tank was relatively full blown with an AquaSpacelight 550 watt HQI halide setup, and it hung from the ceiling. I want to keep my system much simpler this time. I like the output of the T5s and want to keep enough light that I can handle some corals that aren't too light hungry (no clams or sps etc). With my light destroying itself, I have looked at potentially switching brands to one that has better cooling etc, or switching to the Current PC 4-65 watt fixture. The connectors in the PC lights seem very durable and I like how they connect better than the T5 connectors. BUT, how do the PC lumens compare to the T5 lumens? I've read on your site that most people think the T5s put out much more light than PC bulbs and I don't want to downgrade.
<Watt for watt, I feel the T5's put out more light/lumens.>
Are there any other comparable 4-54watt T5 fixtures that I should look at that have separate controls so I can control actinics and daylights
separately, and also have a fan?
<Most fixtures do have separate controls along with a cooling fan.>
I've scanned all over the internet looking for options and it doesn't look like I have many. I've looked at the Current USA Nova Extreme fixture, but I would kind of like to stick to a 4 bulb fixture for size and cost. I've also looked at Sunlight Supply Tek lights but I want to
keep it simple and want a "sit on tank" fixture.
Any opinions would be great.
<Have you looked at the Marineland fixture. It has 4, 54 watt T5's, two daylight and two actinic, two cooling fans and an electronic ballast. It also incorporates a four position switch which is top-mounted. It must be used over a glass canopy as no bulb protection is provided. The cost is very reasonable at $187.00 through Foster/Smith.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Scott Heck

T5 Bulb Selection 3/30/08
Hello all, thanks for fielding a question from an ambitious yet still budding reef keeper.
<Heee, me too!>
I've decided to put together a new reef tank (about 22 inches from surface to sandbed), and have decided on the ATI Powermodule ( 10 lamp X 54 watts ) to light my reef.
<Nice choice.>
My question is on bulb selection. ReefGeek.com sells the combo of fixture with bulbs, and I can't decide on a combination for my tank. I'm leaning toward staying with all ATI bulbs, but need advice on a good array of ten bulbs for a mixed reef.
<OK>
I know that ideally I should limit my selections from one area of the reef, however like most of us, my budget will allow only one tank and I've always liked a challenge. I'd like to keep mostly LPS (Acan, Micromussa, Chalice etc. ) and a few SPS that don't need extreme lighting ( Montipora, Acropora Lokani ). I may attempt a Crocea clam in the future.
<This will be fine with this lighting, especially towards the top half of the tank.>
Any recommendations on bulbs would be appreciated. Thanks again, you guys and gals are life savers.
Shawn
Baltimore, MD
<Well Shawn, this is a kind of loaded question. For the most usable light possible to your livestock, all daylight (10K or even 6500) spectrum bulbs will give you the most light. The reality of things is that some actinic bulbs will be needed to provide the bluer look that is desirable nowadays. I would opt for two or three actinics with the balance being the 10K bulbs. Keep in mind this is highly a matter of personal choice, and you do have the ability to swap out to find what suits you. The ATI line of bulbs are fine. Welcome, I hope this helps you decide, Scott V.>

Aquactinics solar flare, T-5s for a two feet deep, high intensity lighted reef?   3/15/08
Let me say in advance, I appreciate all the information you provide all of us who enjoy our own little pieces of the sea. I will be upgrading my current 46 gallon bowfront reef to a 120 gallon (4ft. by 2ft. by 2ft) tank. My current fish stock includes a purple tang, 2 tomato clowns, and a lawnmower blenny. Corals include a Australian Duncan, Acan Lord, Pulsing Xenia, Acropora Lokani and a Chalice coral. My question is actually a series of questions about the Aquactinics Solar Flare T5 light system. First, do you have any knowledge of the quality of the product.
<Have "heard" mostly good about it... As usual, for product surveys, best to cast ones net far and wide (the BB's) for first hand accounts>
Second, if it is a quality product, would it be suitable in the larger system for my current coral stock, and possibly moving into the more light demanding Acroporas and possibly crocea clams.
<Could be used... though, if it were me/mine, and my intent to maximize growth, color AND appearance, I'd go with two smaller wattage MHs here... the depth of water, livestock mix calls for it/this>
I'm not really sold on the metal halide lighting idea, due to cost to run, possible chiller, etc.
<As stated, the smaller wattage...>
Also, could you give me an idea of what combination of bulbs and from what manufacturers you would recommend. Any info would be
greatly appreciated before I drop $850 bucks on it. Thanks again! You guys and gals are always my first source for the best info.
<Take your time here... I am a big to huge fan of advanced fluorescent (and LED for that matter) light technology... but again, the size/shape of this tank, mix of described life... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Towards the bottom of the page. Bob Fenner>

Which T5 (Kelvin Temperature) Bulbs Are Best? (Little Useful Info…Generalized Responses) – 03/07/08
I have a 4 bulb T5 light fixture. It has 2 10k white and 2 10k blues.
<<Mmm…if these “blue” bulbs came with the fixture they are likely “Actinic”…a shorter and less useful wavelength than those provided by the true 10K bulbs>>
All the bulbs are 54w. I want to grow zoos and other easy corals.
<<Too general…you need to research your selections/be more specific as I have no idea what you mean by “easy corals”>>
There are so many different bulbs to get. Which combo of light bulbs would be best for me to get?
<<More “white” than “blue”…generally speaking>>
I like the tank on the bluish side.
<<Then keep what you have>>
Should I change a 10k white to an 18k purple?
<<I wouldn’t suggest this here…at least not without more/better information about what you plan to keep. But to generalize (again), if keeping deeper-water organisms (most Corallimorpharians, many Zoanthids/Palythoa), a mixture of 10K and 18K bulbs would likely be fine>>
I have a 72 bowfront with a SeaClone 100, 18w UV, sump rated up to 150g, 110 pounds of live rock, and 50 pounds of live sand. I don’t know if this matters.
<<Is all germane… And with the noxious mix of corals you have/will have, a better skimmer and some purposeful chemical filtration are highly suggested. EricR>>

Sad little corals
T5 Bulb Upgrade? – 03/01/08
Thank you for your help.
<<Let's hope it is…>>
I have a 4x54w Nova T5 fixture that is not overly nice. It has been a disappointment, but I am now looking for a replacement.
<<Okay>>
Before I commit to the IC 660 4 bulb retrofit, I was wondering if upgrading my current unit from the "Current Bulbs" to ATI would be a significant improvement.
<<Quite possibly…I seem to recall seeing/reading similar statements re>>
I would like to grow SPS at the top of the tank, but last time I tried it quickly bleached out and died.
<<This does not automatically mean the lighting was inadequate; many things could be responsible for the demise of the coral. It is even a possibility the coral was “shocked” from too much light/improper light-acclimation>>
It was a Montipora digitata.
<<Mmm, the output from the Nova fixture should have been “plenty” adequate for this species>>
Please advise if I am wasting money in upgrading bulbs or if I should simply change my entire system.
<<Upgrading the bulbs will be a much smaller investment…and quite worth trying, in my opinion>>
I am also concerned about the performance of the Current Nova fixture inside of a canopy that will be on top of the 75 in the next two weeks.
<<As related to what…heat buildup? No more of a concern than any other “fixture” I would think…and probably alleviated with the use of fans for ventilation through the canopy>>
Thank you again for your great service.
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

T5 or Halide 2/15/08
Good day, Rogie here.
<Hello, Scott V. with you today.>
I’m in the middle of planning my 90gal SW tank. The tank will housed my current corals (zoas, mushrooms, LPS and few SPS) and will be adding more SPS in the future.
<OK>
My problem is on the lighting. I can’t decide which type of lighting will suit my coral needs. I am being torn between 2x250W MH (14k and with moonlights) or 48” 6x54W T5 HO. I have been doing my research reading posts/threads at different forums and the more I read, the more I become confused on which to get. To settle this dilemma, I need your professional advice.
<This has been a growing controversy over the last few years. The fact of the matter is that either will work, although if you go the T5 route you will likely need 8-10 bulbs to get the same intensity as the halides you propose. I personally like and use halides (primarily because of the shimmer effect they provide) over the T5, but others are just the opposite. You can have a very successful tank with either. Do keep in mind that you may need a chiller with the halides, although there is no guarantee you won’t anyway. >
Thank you in advance and more power.
<Welcome and thank you Rogie. I am sorry I could not be of more help here. This comes down purely to personal choice, you must decide. Have fun, Scott V.>

T5's or T8's and Arcadia? 02/10/2008
Dear Crew,
<<Hello Andrew, Andrew here>>
I've just been reading on your site about marine lighting, and it seems that I've been a bit stingy, so I'm rectifying this. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like I can get the light you've suggested (Vita lite), here in Australia, but I have found a popular brand - Arcadia, just double checking to make sure that this is a quality brand. Also, in your opinion, are T5s or T8s more appropriate?
<<Arcadia are a well established brand, and have to say, they are very popular and have a good reputation here in England, so, that brand is fine to purchase in my opinion. On the lighting type, T5 is your best choice>>
I appreciate your help, Andrew
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>

T5 Lighting   1/3/08
Hey there,
<Hiya! Scott F. in tonight>
I wanted to ask you guys for some advice about my new lighting. I have a 90 gallon reef tank with mostly SPS, but still has a few LPS and softies. I am planning on putting in T5's to replace my current metal halide setup, for several reasons. Electricity is too much, it evaporates to much water, and generally I think these lights are over kill.
<I would tend to agree...halides are great, but often overused.>
My first question is how many of these T5's do you think I will need to satisfy the needs of my SPS corals? My LFS told me 6 48" T5's with 54 watts per would be enough for what my tank requires, would you agree?
<Over a 90, this would be okay, but I would try to squeeze in 8-10 if you can. They are pretty darned efficient, and you get some serious "bang for the buck" with a T5 setup.>
Another question I have is my current canopy which I am planning on mounting these T5's in has about a 4 inch panel added to the bottom of it to give it extra height for the Halides, do you think I should remove these for the T5's? In other words is there an average heights that these lights should be off of the water? I appreciate your input...
AJ
<Well, AJ, I mount my T5's about 4-5" off the water surface. This seems to work well for me.. The reflectors are of paramount importance, so use quality ones. Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>

T-5 V-HO Lighting 10/16/07
Dear Crew,
I was looking at replacement bulbs for my Nova Extreme fixture, which uses 4 SlimPaq 54W T5 HO bulbs. I noticed that URI makes a T5 bulb that is designated "V-HO", or variable high output. This is not the same as "VHO", or very high output. The "details" of this bulb show the wattage as "54W/85W". I can't find any mention of V-HO on WWM. Would you please provide some insight as to what a variable high output bulb is, why it is (or is not) better than the SlimPaq bulb, and whether it's compatible with my fixture? As a supplemental question, I notice there are a few manufacturers of HO T5 bulbs out there, but I can't find much information on which, if any, are compatible with which fixtures. For instance, I can't tell whether a 48" D-D Geissmann bulbs will work in a 48" Nova fixture, etc.
<Andy, this is new technology again and I'm not familiar with these lamps. I have contacted Trevor at Marine Depot who etail these lamps, and he has provided information to help answer your questions.
I've pasted his reply below. James (Salty Dog)>
I appreciate the help.
<You're welcome.>
Andy
Hello James,
Thanks for contacting Marine Depot and its good to hear from the Wet Web Media. The new URI (UV Technology) Variable High Output T5’s are compatible with any system currently running T5’s. The Gieselmann T5’s will also work with any system running T5’s also. Both companies state the bulb length differently as URI’s short bulb is a 22” and Giesemann’s a 24”. These are the same length bulb and are intended for a 24” fixture.
The URI V-HO’s have a variable output meaning that they can be overdriven. If a URI 46 Inch T5 V-HO Super Actinic Bulb 420NM (54W/85W) was added into the Nova Extreme fixture mentioned below the ballast will run the bulbs at 54w just like any other T5 and just like the SlimPaq T5’s that were included with the fixture. If the same URI 46 Inch T5 V-HO Super Actinic Bulb 420NM (54W/85W) is wired into a ballast like the IceCap 660 it can drive the lamp to 85w each allowing a greater output.
I hope this helps explain the V-HO’s a little better. Please feel free to contact us at any time and let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you for choosing Marine Depot, we are always available for any type of support that you may need.
Trevor H.
Marine Depot Customer Service
www.marinedepot.com
714-385-0080

Re: T5 V-HO 10/16/07
Thanks. That's very helpful and what I thought might be the answer, but always good to get the facts before frying my fixture, fish or house.
<Agreed.>
Do you have any experience with SlimPaq vs. Giesseman vs. URI vs. any other T5 bulb as to which is "the best"?
<No, but I've always respected URI products and used their VHO's at one time.>
I'm trying to create the best environment for my fish and inverts without replacing my lighting gear, as it is fairly new (less than 1 year old) and wasn't cheap. If I had to do it all over again and I had done a little more research when setting up my system, I probably would have considered more seriously a metal halide fixture or an 8-bulb T5 fixture, but that's water under the bridge now and my wife is now on to my fish spending habits.
<Yikes, another wife problem!>
My tank is a 100g show that is 30" high, so that creates a bit of lighting challenge.
<With that deep a tank, MH/HQI would be necessary for SPS corals and Tridacna Clams.>
My sessile invert stock is limited to various mushrooms, a BTA that is doing very well (it stays at the bottom and has actually darkened from tan to deep red/purple in the 5 months I've had it), and a few tree corals.
<Good.>
I do not intend to try my hand at SPS or LPS. I really find mushrooms and tree corals to be very attractive/interesting and don't mind a tank that is limited to various flavors of the same.
<I've saw some pretty nice tanks with just softies.>
So, the thing I'm trying to work out is what I can do with my existing equipment to provide the best lighting possible. I was chatting with Brenda (of Crew fame) and she was telling me about the differences between fixtures with one parabolic reflector (like mine) and fixtures with individual reflectors for each bulb, and how the latter is favored because they can significantly increase the intensity of the light that gets projected downwards. She provided this info in connection with a question I had about my BTA's health, and she mentioned that she was surprised that the BTA was so healthy given my lighting fixtures and the fact that it has parked itself at the bottom of the tank for 5 months.
I am running 6x54W T5 HOs via 1 Nova Extreme 4-bulb fixture (two 54W 10,000Ks and two 54W 460nm actinics) and 1 Nova Extreme 2-bulb fixture (two 54W 10,000Ks). Again, I'm pretty much stuck with my gear, but if there are superior bulbs out there (or better temperature configs, like removing all actinic lighting or swapping one or more 10,000K bulbs with 12,000K bulbs) that would maximize favorable characteristics, that would be good to know.
<I'd probably leave well enough alone for now. If T5's become available in 14K, I'd replace all old tubes with 14K's and no actinics. As for the intensity advantage of the T5 V-HO, contact Marine Depot and ask what their opinion is on these lamps vs. T5 standard lamps. The T5's are relatively new technology and I haven't heard enough feedback on them to even form an honest opinion. For my money, for what it costs to set up enough T5's for growing SPS corals, I'd just as soon go with MH/HQI, besides, I like the shimmering effect.>
Thanks again.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Andy

Re: T5 V-HO 10/17/07
James,
<Andy>
Thanks again for all your help/insight. URI does make a 14,000K T5, and Marine Depot does sell it.
<Ah, great to hear, wasn't aware anyone was producing the T5, 14K lamp.
In a recent email, URI tells me the T5 V-HO lamps run their best using the Ice Cap ballast.
James (Salty Dog)>
Andy

Lighting/T5 Question 8/8/07
Hi gang,
<Hi Chuck>
I have a reef with PC's. . . and am thinking about changing over to T-5's.
One thing I wasn't sure of in my reading of the FAQs. . . are the terms T-5 and VHO interchangeable? Or is the T-5 a subcategory of VHO's??
<T5 is another type of fluorescent lighting, a newer technology.>
Lastly, I know some of the larger Oceanic tanks come with VHO's standard. . . does this mean T-5's in this particular case?
<No, VHO's are "Very High Output", T5's are much smaller in diameter, 5/8" to be exact.
They do provide high intensity lighting and offer longer lamp life, generally 16 to 24 months, and emit less heat than the VHO's.>
Thanks in advance for any help on
this. . .
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Chuck

T5 Lighting For A 20-Gallon Nano With “Moderate?” Lighting Requirements – 08/05/07
I am planning a nano reef in a 20-gallon long (30" long, 12" wide, 12"
high). The corals I would like to keep are mostly low to moderate light (mushrooms, zoos, LPS, Montipora)
<<A quite noxious mix in such a small volume of water…>>
and are currently in my 125 under PC lights. I am interested in retrofitting 24w T5's into a canopy, but am unsure how many I should use.
<<Mmm, my preference is metal halide for most any setup, but I also think the T5s are a good choice here/for this tank. I would place at least four bulbs, more if there is room. Different bulb configurations can make this setup quite versatile>>
I want lighting that will sustain the corals I have in mind and also that will make the tank look bright and crisp.
<<75-percent 10,000K bulbs and 25-percent Actinic bulbs>>
I never felt like my big tank had a bright enough look under the PC's.
<<Indeed, just not enough “punch”…though you might be surprised at what a difference T5s would make here as well>>
I recently saw a 19" deep tank under 4x54W T5 and it looked great - that's about the bright look I'm hoping for. Would 2x24W be enough to do what I'm looking for? Or should I go for 3? 4?
<<Four bulbs I think…three 10,000K bulbs and one Actinic bulb at this wattage should work well here in my opinion. You could even experiment with swapping out a couple of the 10,000K bulbs for 20,000K bulbs (i.e. – 2ea. 20,000K, 1ea. 10,000K, 1ea. Actinic) for a more “deep water” look…but be cautious about adding any more Actinic bulbs. These may look nice to your/my eye but do little for the corals themselves>>
Thanks for any help you can give.
<<Hope you find it useful. EricR>>

Re: T5 Lighting For A 20-Gallon Nano With “Moderate?” Lighting Requirements - 08/06/07
Thank you for the quick and helpful response!
<<A pleasure to assist>>
If mushrooms, zoos, LPS, Montis are a noxious mix for this small tank, perhaps I need to leave some of them out - which of these would be most problematic?
<<Hmm...you don’t state which species of LPS corals you plan to keep but speaking in generalities, the Corallimorphs and Zoanthids are your worst offenders/most problematic here. Regards, EricR>>

T5 or T6?...Marine Lighting Q – 07/06/07
Hello,
<<Hi there!>>
I have searched your FAQs for any info on T6 lighting and came up with little.
<<Not one of the “chosen few” in the trade as I’m aware>>
Here is my question. I have a 55-Gal marine tank with a typical 48-inch Perfecto hood single 40-Watt light.
<<Fish-only I hope…>>
My tank is currently just fish only, as live rock doesn't seem to grow well, because of the low lighting I think, and I'd like to have some soft corals/anemones also.
<<Best to “leave-off” the anemones for now, these animals are not for “mixed” tanks…require specialized systems/care>>
I need to get new lighting, but I'm a little confused on what's available.
<<Metal halide gets my vote for most any application…can be quite adaptable and offers the most “bang for the buck” in my opinion>>
I know T5 is very popular,
<<Indeed…and well “supported” in the hobby>>
but I'm seeing T6 light fixtures now that claim to be "the next generation of T5" lamps which operate slightly cooler than T5.
<<Hmm…>>
What is your opinion on T6 fixtures?
<<They seem to provide no more output than the T5s with fewer selections re Kelvin temperature>>
I am deciding between two. A 48-inch 4 fixture (216 W) T6 or a 48 inch two fixture T5 (108 W). What would you recommend?
<<I would stick with the T5s for now, mate (and do consider a four-bulb configuration re). The T6s may or may not be better, but I would give them a bit more time to “prove” themselves/expand their options>>
Thanks,
Shayne McKean
<<A pleasure to share. Eric Russell…Oh yeah! I didn’t have to correct any spelling OR grammar…many thanks for that!>>

Re: T5 or T6?...Marine Lighting Q – 07/07/07
Sir,
<<Please…just Eric>>
Thank you so much for the quick response.
<<Quite welcome>>
I think I have decided on the lighting.
<<Oh?>>
I am looking at a Marineland or Current Nova. Each are 48" with four T5 54W (2 actinic, 2 10,000K) and 4 lunar LEDS.
<<Should be fine, though were this me…I would trade out one of the Actinic bulbs for another 10,000K bulb>>
My tank is 48" long, 12 1/2" deep and 14" deep.
<<…?>>
Will 216W be enough?
<<For what?... but, very likely yes…depending on placement within the system>>
Will this create enough heat to require a chiller?
<<Likely not…but a small fan placed to blow across the surface of the water provide some evaporative cooling if needed>>
I don't have a refugium where I could set one up, but I plan to have a refugium in the near future.
<<Always an excellent addition…in my opinion>>
When you say "mixed" systems, let me clarify. I have 3 Percula clowns,
<<Will likely become “two”>>
1 Watchman Goby, 1 Cleaner Wrasse,
<<Is this fish eating prepared foods? If not it will likely starve and/or pester its tankmates incessantly>>
1 Fire Shrimp, 1 Chocolate Chip Star,
<<The Sea Star is NOT a reef-/coral-safe organism>>
and 1 Black Brittle Star. My tank has 6" of live sand, a canister filter, a protein skimmer, and two powerheads for mechanical filtration and water movement. Am I able to keep any type of anemone (assuming I get the lighting) with this setup?
<<Possibly (sans the Chocolate Chip Star), but I urge you to spend some time learning/researching these organisms and their requirements yourself beforehand…so much to be learned/understood that I cannot possibly hope to pass on here>>
Thanks so much for the help.
Thanks,
Shayne McKean
<<A pleasure to assist. Eric Russell>>

T5 Lighting   6/5/07
Hi all. Your site has become my new favorite place to spend my hours avoiding work.
<Impressive! :) Scott F. with you tonight!>
I have a T5 lighting question that arises due to a hitchhiker that came on a piece of live rock I purchased over the weekend and to which I couldn't find a good answer on the forum (boy, is there a lot of confusing info out there!).
<That's the ULTIMATE understatement!>
My display tank is an Oceanic 110 gallon "show" that I don't think they make anymore--48" long x 18" deep by 30" high. When I set up my tank, I had read Bob Fenner's book and noted the general advice that you go for 1-2 watts per gallon
in a non-reef tank, and I purchased the Nova Extreme T5 4 x 54W HO fixture (2 460 nm actinics and 2 10,000K daylights), because I intended to keep only fish, live rock, and some shrimps, crabs, etc. So, I have 216W total, or just under 2W per gallon.
<I'm not really concerned about the watts-per-gallon factor. I'm more concerned about the quality of the light, the light temperature. PAR value, really. T5 is a fine lighting source, but is dependent upon good reflectors.>
Well, I bought I really nice piece of live rock this weekend that is covered in all kinds of macroalgae. When I got home, I noticed that this rock was harboring a small bubble tip anemone that I (and the shop owner) had not noticed (what a find!).
<Well done, sir!>
I'm concerned, though, that my lighting may not be sufficient to keep this guy happy. When I first introduced the rock to the tank, the BTA moved around a bit trying to find a good fit--spent some time facing up, on the side, etc.
<Not uncommon at all.>
Currently, however, he is parked upside down under a ledge of live rock out of any direct light, tentacles extended and a waving' (but not outstretched like he's looking for light) and seems perfectly happy. He has not moved in 2 days.
<Any change in lighting requires acclimation. Fortunately, anemones are capable of movement, and have the ability to seek a situation that they like. Trust me, T5's are bright! Corals can and do bleach out from light shock when introduced into tanks with T5 systems without proper acclimation.>
Last night I fed him a small piece of shrimp, which he readily took (on the third attempt, after my cleaner shrimps stole the other two pieces). Do you think my lighting is going to be a problem for this BTA?
<Hard to say, but time will tell. Personally, I'd switch to all 10,000 k bulbs for their useful spectrum, or "11,000k" bulbs if you have to have the aesthetics.>
If not, I will purchase a new fixture if I absolutely have to, but I was wondering if I could instead switch out one or both of the actinic bulbs for another 10,000K bulb to make a difference?
<Ahh- we're on the same wavelength here.>
Although the wattage wouldn't change, the temperature of the light will. I know you guys generally think that actinic light is useless, and I have no affinity for it one way or another.
<I would not say "useless"; just not necessary! Try the all 10,000k or 11,000k configuration and see how it goes.>
As always, I really appreciate the personalized help that you guys offer.
Andy
<Glad to be here for you! Regards, Scott F.>

Tek 2 T5s   6/5/07
Hi WWM crew,
I recently purchased the Tek 2 T5 retrofit kit and am wondering what types of inhabitants I can keep. My set up is two 20 gallon tall tanks put side by side. One is a freshwater planted tank, and the other is a soon to be reef tank with 35lbs of live rock in it. The lights are two 54watt 48"long t5's. I don't know if you are familiar with the different types of t5 bulbs but they are ATI, one is Aquablue and the other is Blue +. Are these lights sufficient for most SPS/anenomes/LPS, or am I going to be confined to softies.
<Will support most all Cnidarian life offered in the trade>
I would really like to keep some SPS and maybe a BTA
<Uh, not in this same small volume, no>
because my other tank is a 100 gallon softie. The tank will also be very lightly stocked with just one firefish and maybe one more small fish.
Thank you in advance, and I hope I didn't write too much.
Taylor
<Read on my friend... This and so much more related information is archived on WWM... the search tool, indices... Bob Fenner>

How Much Light Is Enough?  5/30/07
Hi Crew!
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight!>
Thanks for all your help in the past. I have been working on my upgraded tank and had a question about lighting. The tank is a 160G rectangular acrylic. I am going with retrofit T5 bulbs with reflectors.
<Excellent lighting sources. I use T5 myself extensively, and am very pleased with them.>
Right now, I have a pure actinic 54W and 54W midday in one bank, one 80W actinic blue bulb in a single strip, and a bank of 3 80W aqua blue bulbs. This gives me 428W or 2.7W/gallon. I can't fit more bulbs in the canopy but my watts/gallon seems low vs. the suggested 4 to 5W/G.
<I'm personally skeptical about "watt-per-gallon" rules in regards to lighting. Really, in my opinion, the most important measure is the PAR value of the lighting system. Borrow a PAR meter if you're skeptical. I would really simply look at the way the animals under your care react to the lighting, and use that as a determining factor. You can always increase feeding to compensate for less intense lighting.>
At the same time, I would prefer more blue in my tank and visually, the tank seems quite bright. Any suggestions of what I can do? Thanks.
<I really like the Geissmann "Aqua blue" bulbs myself, and fins T5 actinics to be well- ugly, if you ask me! I'd eliminate the Actinics and just use the Aquablues, maybe with a mix of UV 10,000ks for visual balance. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

Adding a T-5 fixture, Which bulbs to get?   4/21/07
Hello,
I have finally decided the lighting fixture I am going to purchase. I chose a 36 inch Nova Extreme fixture with 4 bulb sockets and moonlights. My tank is 30  inches long though and 18 inches high, so I not only need to support it above  the water level, but support it somehow on the sides since 3 inches of the  fixture will stick out on each side.
<Mmm... I'd rather go with a shorter fixture, lamps... 24 inchers will/would do here>
Since the whole fixture is on there, will  it affect the light being sent into the tank?
<Mmm... affect? It will not "look" good... too much light on the outside edges...>
The tank is 36 gallons by the  way. The bulbs part confuse me. I know I need an actinic light,
<Mmm, no...>
but not sure  
whether to purchase a 50/50 or all actinic light, nor do I know if I should get  a 7k or 10k bulb. I have four sockets, and believe that the more blue the better  for a reef.
<Again... not really>
The corals I plan to keep will probably we low light and easier maintenance. I have only some corals in mind, and need to purchase a good book
<Bingo!>
about corals to help me out.
<My choice? Eric Borneman's Microcosm/TFH work on Aquarium Corals or Anthony Calfo's self-published tome on Coral Propagation>
I so far like Ricordea mushrooms, brain coral, Sun  coral, and zooanthids.
<Mmm, do read re the Compatibility, Systems of these on WWM:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm>
I was suggested to a T-5 fixture, since people I have  talked too have had much success from using it.
Here is the fixture
_http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm? pcatid=12772&ref=3969&cm
_mmc=LiveAquaria_DFS_Links-_ -Fish_Supplies-_-LiveAquaria
_Gen_Page-_-Lighting&subref=AA&N=2004+113175_
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12772& ref=
969&cm_mmc=LiveAquaria_DFS_Links-_-F
ish_Supplies-_-LiveAquaria_Gen_Page-_-Lighting&subref=AA&N=2004+113175)  
Thanks again,
Joe
<Do read Joe... also re marine light, lighting on WWM... You'll do fine. Bob Fenner>

Re: Adding a T-5 fixture, Which bulbs to get?   4/22/07
Hello again,
Hopefully you will be able to read the re: applied message since you are know what I am talking about, since there are a bunch of you answer  e-mails.
<Mmm, better to use carats... doubled, inverted... but can remember this from yesterday>
If I go with that 24 inch fixture, it only gives 96 watts, which means I would need to have multiple 10ks and without actinic, of which I would like to have at least one in my tank, because wattage is so low.
<Mmm, the actinic is more aesthetic than functional... for looks>
I will purchase a book for deciding what corals I am going to keep, but still will keep ones with moderate to low lighting. It has been difficult for me to find a 24 inch fixture  that provides the necessary amount of like that I need for around 4 watts a  gallon. I don't know the difference between T5s, PC, and VHO.
<Mmm, then read... posted on the Net, WWM>
I saw a good power  compact system and VHO system which would provide around 4 watts a gallon, but  don't know how more efficient they are.
<Posted... NO, HO, VHO, CF/PC, T5... T N... are the order of "efficiency" in terms of useful photonic energy per cost of fixture and energy...>
I also figured that VHO and PC would  overheat my tank, and therefore having to result into a chiller, something I  don't know where to fit since a fuge will be taking up the space and don't  know where to pick up the extra cash.
Thanks once more,
Joe
<Good considerations... Which will you choose and how? Bob Fenner>

Re: Adding a T-5 fixture, Which bulbs to get?    4/23/07
Hello again,
I found a fixture on eBay. The person who sells it has sold many other products and has had much approval rating. The fixture is a 24 inch Metal HQI   Halide 150 watt and 2 x 24 watt T5 sockets. He said it is a Jebo 2007 model,  new, and tested to see if it is functional. I Googled Jebo and found nothing but   his post on EBay. Not sure if he is a company of some sort or what. It appears as if it would be great for my tank. But the problem is mounting it on my tank.  Since its width is 11.5, my tank is exactly 11.5 in width from the sides and  right up to where the tank bows. I can support it in the back, but was wondering  whether or not I can find legs or something to support it on the sides. I asked  the guy questions, and seems like many people have be satisfied with what they  purchased. I am trying to be very careful and asking him questions, so far it  looks good. But I have never purchased anything on eBay. How do you think the  fixture would do for my tank? Would it be sufficient?
Link to the fixture -
_http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem& item=330110552662&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1_
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem& item=330110552662&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1)
Thank you again Bob, or whoever will help me with this e-mail. I am very  grateful for all of your assistance.
Joe
<Can be clipped on... but is going to overheat your system likely... Bob Fenner>

Lighting; MH and T5 - 02/07/2007
Hi Adam,
<Hey Gin Josh.>
Thank you for the fast response.
<We try our best.>
I probably would be looking at going for a shallow water bio-tope. If I went with the 175 or 250W pendant, how high above the tank should it be hung?
<Mmm...depending on how bad/good your heating problems are about 12"+...at least 8"...you don't want to cook your animals.>
I would be interested in the "more reputable models/brands out there" that you mentioned.
<Mmm...Sure I will list a few: Hamilton, Giesseman, PFO, Sunlight Supply (Just a personal plug I love the simplicity and effectiveness of the S.S. pendants)....>
Yes fluorescents would be tough on this but I may ask, What about T5/HO instead of metal halide?
<Ummm, I think they are different types of lighting for different types of applications but without going into too much detail...I am a huge fan of T-5's, great bulb life, very efficient when paired with the proper reflector.>
Thanks again.
<No prob.>
Josh Rosenberg
<Adam J.>

T-5 lighting choices   1/29/07
HI...
<Hello.>
I have a 125 gallon tank. For lighting I have a six bank HO T5 fluorescent fixture. It's a FOWLER setup. I have mainly Zoo's coral wise and appr.
<So not completely a FOWLR…..>
120lbs of Live rock. What would be the best mixture of lighting?
I have available 56 watt 6500 k's,10,000 Ks and actinics. What would be the best combination for both growth of Zoo's and LR along with some aesthetics reasons...
<For growth wise lighting 10,000K and less would be fine and 20,000K would meat the aesthetic needs, 4 of the 10,000/6,5000K and two of the 20,000k would be my choice.>
I like the bluer look.
<Most do, if the bluer spectrum is more appealing to you utilize 14,000k….would be an ok compromise in this case.>
How would you place them in the fixture?
<The actinic/20,000k on the outside, (daylight) bulbs toward the middle.>
My LR and Zoo's are pretty much in the back 2/3 of the tank. Thanks for your time...appreciated...Pete
<Welcome, Adam J.>

Re: Ich, Low pH, Low Calcium, Possibly Elevated Magnesium, system improvements... lighting now...   1/24/07
<Hello again Jennifer!>
No way! That would be great but each bulb is only 15 watts so that gives me a grand total of 30 watts...blinding.. I know.. haha!
<Yes, I'm pulling out my sunglasses just to reply to you! This minimal amount of light is sufficient for a FOWLR set up.>
It would save me a bunch of money (not to mention my marriage).
<Hopefully both are good things!>
I'm going to check into that. The LFS here said that I need to have at least 1 white and 1 blue bulb for live rock even if I didn't want corals.
<This is incorrect.>
I was looking at a Nova Extreme w/ T5 bulbs and lunar lights at Drs. Foster. It gives off 216 watts...which I believe is a little more that what I have now.  
<Yeah, just a tad...>
Have you heard of these?  
<T5's...yes, Nova Extreme...no>
If any one had told me I had to be a chemist, mathematician, electrician and plumber in order to do this hobby I would have rethought it!!!!  
<Yes we do tend to become Jack's of all trades!>
Thanks Mich!!
<Welcome!  -Mich>
Jennifer

T5 How much is enough?    1/10/07
Hi there,
<Hi Michael, Graham T. here!>
   I've a question regarding a rather confusing issue.  I'll try and make it as simple as possible.  I have 2 reef tanks right now (29 gal and 46 bow tank).  Both of these tanks are lighted by PC lighting.  In these tanks, I have LPS, Softies and a RBTA in each.  I'm getting ready to set up a 75 gallon system and want to have more flexibility with inhabitants.  I originally wanted to go with MH lighting but after doing some research, I've come to the conclusion that I really don't want to deal with the heat issues, the cost to run issues and the cost to purchase issues...lol.  I've come across T5 lighting, which I'd never heard of.  The actual system I'm looking at is a 48" Tek Light: 6-54W T5 HO Fluorescents manufactured by Sunlight Supply.
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/Sunlight_Supply/Tek_Light_Fixtures /48_inch__Tek_Light:_6-54W_T5_HO_Fluorescents_(Black)_by_Sunlight_Supply
<I know there are other manufacturers out there that specialize in aquarium lighting rather than greenhouse and others, but I think Sunlight Supply is a great company. Back in 2000, I purchased a hood from them that had been CAD-built and the light spread was incredible! This light looks very capable.>
   The tank is a standard 48"X18"X20".   I would like to be able to keep LPS, Softies and Anemones as I do in my other tanks, but I'd also like the option of keeping some types of SPS and maybe a smaller clam or 2.  Do you see any reason why this lighting set up wouldn't work?  I do understand that I may have to keep the SPS a little higher in the tank.  I've also thought about a possible addition of a clamp on style MH fixture of some kind to "spot light" a specific area in the tank for SPS.  However, the MH would come in the future.  For now, would the T5 fixture work?  I will also add that there's a 8 bulb fixture option available as well but I'm thinking that may be a bit overkill.
    Any help or advice you're able to provide would be appreciated!!  Thanks so much.
<Mike, I see no reason why this fixture would be insufficient for your needs/wishes. That is a lot of light, and well built as far as I can tell. You will probably wish there was a moonlight option, but that's something you can look into later on anyway. One thing I like to push, is up-selling lights, skimmers, and tanks. If you can, get the 8 bulb strip and leave some bulbs out unless you need them. The only problem with the 8 tube light is that it is actually bigger than the top of your tank! Even the 6-bulb model is 16" to your 18". The bottom line: Six bulbs is enough in my opinion, as long as you pick the right bulbs.>
Michael
<Stay bright, buddy!
-Graham T.>

Which T5 bulb to buy?    1/5/07
Hello, I am getting t5 bulbs for my tank and was told that JBL t5 bulbs are the best in the market, the problem is that here in Mexico they cost about $50dlls for each 80watt bulb.
  But I could also get the following 80watt bulbs by ATI for half the price:   
  T5 ATI 60" 80w Sunlight
T5 ATI 60" 80w True Actinic
<I would definitely go with the ATI's here for the money... Do make sure they are of a "higher" Kelvin rating... like 11,000... Please see here: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2004-43,GGLD:en&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=80+watt+bulbs+by+ATI&spell=1>   
  So I was wondering how do both brands compare, which one is best?
  Thank you.
<Mmm, chances may be that they're made by the same manufacturer... just labeled differently. I would skip on much of actinic... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the last tray at the bottom... on Marine Lighting. Bob Fenner>

Lighting Combos- Many Bulbs-Many Possibilities   1/3/07
<Hello to the Wet Web Media Crew
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I have a 55g aquarium with a 400w 20,000K bulb for lighting.  All of the corals that I am keeping are mainly Acropora and really like the bright illumination.  I am looking to upgrade my lighting a bit by adding some T-5's.  I am constantly researching about reef aquariums and read that corals prefer and grow better under 6,500-10,000K lighting.
<Well, many of the high-light-loving corals do; the PAR values afforded by 6500-10,000k lighting is important to many for growth.>
My plan right now is to keep the MH and then add 4 48" (54w) T-5's, but I am not sure what combination and Kelvin ratings to use.  There are 3 different K ratings I would like to fit into the hood 6,500K  10,000K and actinic.  What combination do you think would be best?  Right now I am thinking either a 6,500K MH with 2 10,000K and 2 actinic T-5's or a 10,000K MH with 2 6,500k and 2 actinic T-5's
<I like the one with 10k halide with actinic better. In my opinion, the 6500k halide is just too visually yellow, and the addition of T5's in actinic "flavor" will add a nice touch.>
There are really too many combinations that I could go with and was wondering if you could give me your input to help finalize my decision.
Thanks in advance
<My pleasure! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Overheated Lighting Fixture...Dangerous Situation – 11/20/06
Hello Cam here again.
<<Hi there Cam!>>
I would like to thank you guys and girls for replying to all my previous messages (except when I add a picture as an attachment, but I can understand, bandwidth and all).
<<Am sure all would say you’re quite welcome>>
This might seem a bit weird, but I think my lights are fuming, because there is a burning smell coming from my canopy’s (Jebo R119) light switch.
<<Mmm, not good...you may want to consider discontinuing use of this unit until it can be checked out>>
I am a bit worried that the 2 new T5's (about 30W to 100W, can't remember the actual amount of Watts) are too close together, about 5mm from each other, and there is a risk that the T5's will explode or fracture, because of the heat.
<<I wouldn’t expect the bulbs being close together to be a problem.  But...are you using bulbs of differing wattages?  The unit should specify which wattage bulbs to use...if you are mixing/exceeding wattages this may be the problem>>
I also think that the wiring could be the culprit here.
<<...?>>
I have used normal security wiring.
<<Hmm, I’m a bit of a DIYer myself, but “security” wiring is not familiar to me.  I hope you aren’t referring to the “very light gauge wire” used to for some security/alarm system connections, sometimes also referred to as “bell” wire, as this is not appropriate for wiring an AC light fixture such as you have>>
The smell is coming from my light switches (on the left side of my canopy).
<<I think you should disconnect/replace this fixture>>
I also can't remember who the manufacturer of the T5's is, so please give me the safest estimates (I have a small canopy (1200mm x 60mm x 60mm).
<<Estimates of what?  The safest thing to do at this point is not use this fixture>>
My real questions are:
1) What is the minimum recommended distance between T5 lights?
<<Shouldn’t be an issue>>
2) What sort of wiring should be used for T5's?
<<As a minimum, 14-guage copper...in my opinion (I am not a licensed electrician)
3) Should I change the light switches to some that can take the heat or current or is there no such thing as to much current when using digital/electronic ballast?
<<If these switches came with the fixture they should not be heating up.  You need to have someone who is qualified to do so, assess the problem with this fixture>>
I know that these questions seem a bit silly, but I am in quite a pickle here.
<<Not silly...and you have a potentially hazardous situation.  I would stop using this fixture and get it fixed or replaced immediately>>
Thank you so much for your time.
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>