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VHO end-cap and bulb question
2/20/07 Will a regular t12 end cap for a hardware store work with
VHO bulbs? Moisture isn't a problem as I have been
running CF for over 3 years without moisture proof end caps. Thanks
<Hey Shaun, JustinN with you this morning. Yes, regular T12 end caps
will fire VHO bulbs, however, I cannot condone the use of non-moisture
resistant end caps in an aquatic setting -- there is a LOT of juice
running through those end caps! -JustinN>
VHO End-Cap Meltdown...A Case For A
Splashguard?...Or Just The Wrong Type Of End-Cap? -- 08/15/07
Good evening crew! <<Hiya Goldie! [flashbacks of 'Sin
City' going through my mind... Uh-oh, I think I've caught
Marv's attention...time to run!...]>> My VHO lights
went out last weekend, and I first thought it was the harness
shorting out. <<Oh?>> So I ordered a new one and took
the lights down to prepare for the repair job ahead. Once I got
them down, I noticed that one of the bulbs was nearly black, and
the cap was melted! <<Yikes!>> My guess is water got
in the cap, the cap overheated, and eventually it all shorted
out. <<Actually, the short caused the
overheating/melting...and one can only guess the cause here, but
if these were not three-piece 'hard' plastic end-caps
then the heat from the VHO bulbs themselves may have
softened/melted the end-cap leading to the short>> Good
thing I ordered new caps with the harness... <<But what
kind?>> So my question is this: what kind of splash shield
can I use? Can I just put an aluminum shield around the ends to
protect the caps? <<Mmm, I think a clear Plexiglas shield
along the length of the light fixture would be better than a
'partial' shield that will likely not prove effective.
But the best option is to use the correct type/style of
moisture-proof end-caps such as these
(http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=737)>> Or should I
do something bigger, like a Plexiglas or glass shield on the tank
itself? <<This too is an option...though be aware
'any' type of splash shield is going to reduce the
efficacy of the lighting>> I am concerned that if this
happens again, it won't just be caps I am replacing -- it
will be the whole kitchen or house as the result of a
VHO-triggered fire!! (That would probably top the list of
expensive mistakes I have made with this aquarium...) <<A
valid and serious concern. You must do what makes you
comfortable, but in my experience the three-piece moisture-proof
caps have always proven safe/effective>> Thanks! Goldie
<<Hope this helps. EricR>>
Re: VHO End-Cap Meltdown...A Case For A
Splashguard?...Or Just The Wrong Type Of End-Cap? -- 08/16/07
Thanks for such a quick reply! <<Quite welcome>>
These caps WERE the three-piece waterproof caps-- they were ARO
brand, meant for use with the ARO ballast that they connected to.
<<Hmm, too bad...these end-caps generally perform quite
well. Perhaps this one was defective/faulty...or maybe even the
problem was with the bulb. Or...maybe the nose of the cap
wasn't tightened/had worked loose allowing moisture to enter.
Admittedly, all speculation on my part>> Maybe one just
worked its way loose and water got in that way. <<Oh!
Yes... (should read ahead I suppose)>> Not sure.
<<Nor am I>> Anyway, would Plexiglas overheat?
<<I have used this for splashguards on DIY fixtures
myself...should be fine. Just make sure your fixture has adequate
gaps/vents to allow trapped heat to escape>> I may put a
splash guard on even though the light efficiency would be
reduced. <<Okay>> The life I have in my tank (or had,
before the lights went out...) doesn't require extremely high
light levels; it's mostly live rock, some random inverts like
mystery clams and worms (most of whom either live in crevices or
caves anyway) and a lone piece of coral whose name right now
eludes me. <<I see>> I should get my new caps
tomorrow (and then I'll see how many bulbs I need to
order...). Hopefully that will take care of it! <<My
fingers are crossed...!>> Thanks again! Goldie <<A
pleasure to assist. EricR>> PS I wish I could look like the
Goldie in Sin City -- but with more clothes on... :) <<Hmm,
I may have to watch that movie again... ER>>
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Questions on Lighting Recommendations Bob, <Steven Pro
answering a few questions before heading out to dinner with the family
and Antoine.> I was just about to pull the trigger on purchasing an
Icecap VHO retro kit when I saw your article recommending Duro
Vita-Lites RO fluorescents. <A great lamp! Shame they are not made
anymore. I wonder why no one has purchased the name and lamp to
remarket, similar to Corallife now selling Tetra's Luft air
pump.> I plan to use the 48" length (T10?). I have a couple of
questions: 1. Can you tell me who makes a good electronic ballast for
RO bulbs? <I believe Icecaps will light Normal Output (NO) lamps,
too.> 2. Are there any water-tight end caps available for these size
bulbs? <Hard end caps are required for VHO, while you can get away
with the soft variety for NO.> 3. What is a good source to purchase
these components and bulbs? <Champion, Ahsupply.com, Marine Depot,
and many more I am forgetting. Take a look at the links page on WWM for
the various e-tailers.> 4. Will these bulbs be available long-term
since Duro-Test is gone? <I do not believe they are available now.
URI is my brand of choice.> Thanks, Darrell Heflin <You are
welcome. -Steven Pro>
VHO Lighting WetWebMedia Crew, I'm in the planning stage
of my DIY light project. I've decided on the IceCap 660 ballast for
my 120 gallon tank that is 24" deep. I am going to run four
48" bulbs for a total of 440w, do I need 4 end caps, or eight?
<You need eight end caps, four pairs.> Does IceCap make a good
end cap or are there better ones? <Most any hard end cap will work.
I get whatever my vendor carries.> Does the stock wiring harness
have the capabilities to run all four bulbs, or do I need to purchase a
different one? <If the 660 is capable of running four lamps, the
stock wiring will work.> Thank you. <You are welcome. -Steven
Pro>
End caps Bob - I need to get some end caps (waterproof)
immediately. I currently have the white ones that consist of
three pieces that all screw together. I can never get the bulbs
to fire up without at least 2 hours of messing around. It is
driving me crazy. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Rebec >>
Yes! And this is important... as annoying as it is to you to have to
fiddle with the end caps, it is also a hazard to the lamps... and maybe
you. I take it these are T-12 ("regular" fluorescents)... if
you're not happy/satisfied with the fittings and ballast system en
toto, do look into the lighting systems sold by Aquarium Systems and
Energy Savers (ESU)... if only the end caps are bothering you, maybe
contact Champion Lighting (http://www.championlighting.com/)... And for
the hot tip of the day, before inserting your lamps, smear the pins and
metal end pieces with a thin coat of silicon o-ring grease (like for
camera gear, pool pumps...). This will help make a secure, water tight
connection and ease their removal at a later date. Bob Fenner
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