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FAQs about Fluorescent Light and Lighting for Marine
Systems, Standard/Regular (SO, NO) and High-Output (HO), and Very High
Output (VHO) Lamp Selection
Related FAQs: Fluorescent
Light 1, Fluorescent Light 2,
Fluorescent Light 3, Normal Output (NO),
High Output (HO), Very
High Output (VHO),
Compact
Fluorescents (CFs, PCs), Compact Fluorescents
2, T5, TN Fluorescent Lighting, & FAQs
on Fluorescent: Fixture Selection,
End Caps,
Ballasts, PC
Lamp Selection, T-5 Lamp Selection,
Lamp
Life-Span Issues, Power Consumption Issues,
Installation-Wiring,
Troubleshooting/Repairing,
By Make/Model/Manufacturer:
&
Metal
Halide Lighting, Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting, Small System Lighting,
Related Articles: Fluorescent
Light & Lighting, Spectral
Quality of Various Fluorescent Lamps by Dana Riddle,
T5 Fluorescent Lighting,
Coral
System Lighting,
|
AHSupply.com
www.hellolights.com
Vitalite |
Coralife 50/50 or just white? The latter 8/24/06
Hello crew,
<Mike>
I have a quick question I don't seem to find a direct answer on. I have a 10
gallon Nano-reef with green star polyps, frogspawn, Ricordea mushroom, a
small purple mushroom, green Zoanthids,
<... trouble...>
and a tree looking soft coral that had no name to it but it was $5 and it looks
really cool. I have two Aquaclear 200 filters with no media just for water flow
and 10-15 lbs. of
live rock. I have a Coralife 96 watt 20" light fixture on the tank that seems to
be working well for the coral but I was wondering if it is better to have the
50/50 actinic bulb in the Coralife fixture I have or would it be better to put
the 10,000k all white bulbs in?
<The latter>
I can get either bulb for the same price and the fixture came with 50/50 bulbs
but I was just wondering if my coral may need more of just all white light?
Thanks for all the wonderful help you provide.
Mike
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Home Center Fluorescent Bulbs
Not “Safe” for Aquarium Use?...Not So! – 09/04/07
Greetings!
<<Hello!>>
While buying some fluorescent lights at Home Depot, another customer told me
that "you have to buy aquarium lights at the pet shop because these regular
lights make a fire hazard since they're sealed differently."
<<Hah! No...but they sure are “priced” differently [grin]>>
I've been buying 'regular' fluorescent bulbs for many years now and have never
heard of this before.
<<Indeed, I will submit that this other “customer” is misinformed (or has maybe
been intentionally misled)...the manufacturing process is the same. If you get
them wet...whether intended for the pet trade or the workshop...they ALL pose a
hazard. The home center bulbs are no more hazardous than any other>>
I'm having some trouble finding some info on this- maybe because this person was
hopefully wrong?
<<They were>>
Please lend me your wisdom!!
<<If the bulbs from the home center/hardware store serve your purpose, then by
all means use them>>
Thanks!!
Kay
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>
Lighting Dilemma. fluor. lamp
choices 12/6/07
Hello,
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
I have been a long time reader of WWM. I recently registered as a user and am
sincerely grateful for this resource. <Great!> I have a 110 gal display tank
with a 20 gal refugium.
I originally set this up as a GARF bulletproof tank so it has a plenum, deep
sand bed, and lots of circulation. My lighting cycle is 12 on 12 off. Current
inhabitants include:
Coral
-Frogspawn
-Toadstool
-Cool orange sponge
-Lots of star polyp
-Bright yellow gorgonian
-Many assorted mushrooms
Other
-2 Perc clowns
-1 Sailfin
<Tang? If so it will need a larger tank in the future.>
-2 peppermint shrimp
-Reproducing Cerith snails
-Reproducing Nerite snails
-Large brown brittle star
-100+ lbs live rock (nice and purple)
I would like to start to branch into SPS.
<OK.>
My question is what combo of bulbs will suit me best I have a home made fixture
consisting of 8 48" bulbs with water proof end caps powered by two icecap 660's.
I have read until blue, and still think I am confused. I had been running 4 URI
super actinic & 4 URI Actinic white. I just read some thing about vita lights
that seemed good but they only come standard wattage (not VHO).
<VHO would be recommended here.>
I would love if the almighty Bob or someone of similar caliber would just say,
"JUST GET THIS". Since I have the luxury of multiple bulbs I want a crazy combo
that does everything as far as spectrum.
Jacob MR Adkins
<I would simply replace six of the bulbs with VHO “daylight” (10K) and keep two
of the super actinics. You have the lighting, you will just need more usable
light. I would probably keep the SPS to the upper 2/3 of the tank (considering
110 gallon tanks tend to have deep configurations.) Happy reefing, Scott V, not
near the caliber of Bob.> <<Keep eating and drinking Scotter... You'll
get there! Heeeeee! RMF>>
Lighting
Hello.
I'm trying to figure out what to purchase for bulbs. I have a 30 breeder 36
(long) x 18(width) x 12 (height). My son and myself have made a stand AND hood
that can be seen here:
www.lamepage.com/lame_page/EmptyTanken.jpg
We installed three 36" FL fixtures (6 bulbs total) and attached a 3"
cooling fan on the back. They are approximately 6" from the surface of the
water. My question is this: Since we are going to attempt a shallow water reef,
what bulbs should I use?
<This is not enough light for shallow water corals, SPS.>
I have been thinking about 4 * 10000K Corallife and 2 * 7100K actinic. Will that
work?
<I much prefer URI to Corallife.>
I can't seem to find the Lumens per bulb for the Coralife AND I would sure love
to know! I expect @ a required minimum of 10,000 lumens per sq meter, My tank
requires 5000-6000, so each bulb I buy should output 2500 to give me 15000 total
lumens, cut that in about half, and I have what may be required to sustain the
reef. Any info on Lumen outputs for the Corallife bulbs would be much
appreciated.
<Please look through our extensive lighting section beginning here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
and following on through the linked files.>
Best Regards, Jon
<Have a nice day. -Steven Pro>
Re: lighting 50/50 no
Hi again. I suppose that last email was a bit badly worded (sorry).
<No problem>
I am looking at 6 x 36 watt NO fluorescents but was just after your ideas
between the Philips Colortone 50 and the Philips advantage (e.g. would I need
blue fluorescents as well with the advantage) or are they a 50/50 as well as the
Colortone 50?
<The Colortone 50 looks like a nice lamp from the information I got at the
Philips website, http://www.lighting.philips.com/. The Advantage lamp was listed
as a T-8 32 watt lamp, which may not work properly in standard aquarium
fixtures. They did not provide a spectral analysis of the Advantage lamp.>
It's just that the Philips advantage seems to be a lot brighter bulb that's all.
<Lumens is not a good indicator. It is my understanding that the measurement
lumens is skewed the light visible to the human eye and not a good determination
of light required for photosynthesis. I would use 3-4 Colortone 50's and 2-3
Actinics. -Steven Pro>
GE Starcoat T5 VHO Tubes
Hi there. Do you have you had any experience with the above mentioned
fluorescent tubes in marine aquaria?
<No, I do not. I understand this newer format fluorescent technology will be
coming out soon in the US.>
I have seen information from LFS's stating that these are comparable if not
better than metal halides,
<I find this blanket statement hard to believe. There is no fluorescent
lighting I am aware of that can get the same kind of penetration that MH's
can.>
when used in smaller tanks and tanks less than 400mm in depth.
<You are going to have to excuse me. I am American, so it is going to take me
a moment. 400 mm = 40 cm, 1 inch = 2.54 cm, so 400 mm = ~15.75 inches. Ok, there
are many available fluorescent lighting schemes that would be appropriate on
such a shallow tank.>
They are available in 6500k ratings and 20000k actinic. These might be the only
VHO tubes that I can obtain. Metal halides are very expensive so not really an
option.
<Really? Many times MH's compared to VHO or PC of the same intensity are very
comparable and cheaper over the long run when factoring in the cost of
replacement lamps and electricity.>
It would seem that the T5 offers me a solution.
<Perhaps, but I would continue to shop around and look at alternatives.>
Your advice will be appreciated, Hilton
<Good luck! -Steven Pro>GE Starcoat T5 VHO Tubes II
Hello Steven.
<Good morning Hilton!>
The life expectancy of the T5 tubes are stated as 20,000 hours without a loss of
quality or intensity
<I find that statement highly suspect. That is over four and a half years
using a 12 hour photoperiod. There is not a single lighting technology (NO, HO,
VHO, PC, or MH) that has not been proven to lose intensity and/or change
spectrum over time.>
A breakdown of the cost could be given as follows :
I live in South Africa and our currency is very weak at present - below is a
conversion from Rand to dollar - so this makes it even a better argument for the
T5.
<Ok>
Cost of 80 Watt 6500 k T5 tube - approx $10
Cost of electronic ballast able to run two tubes approx $50
Cost of end caps - approx $4
<These numbers are cheaper than we get for VHO supplies.>
Thus total cost for 160 Watts - less than $80. If you were to shop around for
ballasts this cost would come down considerably. This should also provide usable
light intensity for a minimum of 2 years
and as much as 4 years working on a 14 hour per day cycle.
<My math came out differently, but lets use your figures. 20,000 hours at 14
hour days is 1428.57 days or 3.9 years. I find that incredibly hard to believe
that this lamp does not lose any intensity or spectrum shift in that time.>
Compare this to metal halide where a 175 Watt bulb alone could cost as much as
$80. To this you still need to add the cost of the fitting and ballast and also
consider that the bulb has to be replaced every 12 months (at least)
<No, most can last over a year up to about a year and a half.>
A trade-off is also the fact that metal halides give of intense heat - our high
summer temp (above 30 degrees C) means that with halides a chiller becomes
essential.
<I have never bought the argument that MH's give off any more heat than any
other lighting technology when the light intensity is the same.>
I include a link to data sheets on the T5,
http://www.gelighting.com/eu/litlib/starcoat_t5_oem.html, for anyone who might
be interested.
<Something was wrong with the GE site because I could not download the PDF
file with the specific information.>
I do agree that the T5 will not have the punch to penetrate deep tanks but there
seems to be many things counting in favor of using them.
<Quite possible and for your shallow tank and with your prices they seem like
a reasonable alternative. I would just get a Lux meter and track the intensity
and be prepared to change the lamps in a year.>
I was hoping that someone had previous experience but it looks like I might be
the first to try it.
<Perhaps a reader of the daily page will weigh in with their experience.>
Your comments would be welcome.
<See above>
Thanks, Hilton
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
GE Starcoat T5 VHO Tubes III
Hello Steven.
<Hello Hilton.>
Thanks for the speedy reply.
<You are quite welcome.>
I have just a clarification of my statement that there is no loss of light
quality and/or intensity over a 20,000 hour period. A more accurate statement
would have been "little loss" as shown in the T5
data sheet - only 8% after 10000 hours of use. If they can be believed.
<That is a much more believable statement, but I would still like to see some
independent analysis before I believe completely.>
Thanks for your input. It has aided me in making up my mind.
<I am glad to have been of assistance.>
Considering the very high cost of metal halides in my country and the fact that
these are about the only VHO lights that I can get a hold of.
I have decided to use them.
<I would agree in this instance. It is amazing the difference in pricing
around the world.>
4 x 54 Watt 6500k full spectrum
2 x 54 Watt 20000k Actinic
For a total of 324 Watts over my 250 Liter tank.
Should be good enough for most invertebrate requirements ?
<This tank is less than 16 inches deep and about 65 gallons. That sounds
pretty good for many corals.>
Thanks again!
Cheers, Hilton
<Best of luck to you! -Steven Pro>
|
Replacement Fluorescent Ballast
Ahhhh!!! Ok, I've written a bunch of times now, and have always been helped-
now I really need it. After 2 years of successful reef keeping with many
successes and valuable failures, my biggest problem is finding a new ballast. My
old tankmate maker bought a compact fluorescent ready made kit from our LFS. It
came soon, and worked great. It's a four bulb, 2 at 10000k, an actinic and a
half and half, which I've heard is a mutant in the trade...ok, the big issue is
that we thought a bulb had blown, but it turns out to be a bad ballast. I had
our college electrician pull the kit apart to find no markings, serial #'s or
name brands anywhere-except the bulbs we buy. The bulbs are a straight pin
assembly and are 55 watts each, for a total of 220 watts. I have spent
probably a week straight trying to find replacements in online searches,
and the original supplier for some reason won't tell my very reputable LFS. Due
to the kit, it looks like it would be about 6" long, about 2" wide and
maybe an inch tall.- and I know that AHSupply.com won't do it- any ideas?
Thanks and let's end the misery, mike Barrett
<Hi Mike, skip the misery and go with an Ice Cap 660 to drive those 4 CF
tubes. BTW, the bulbs are available in various colors, including actinic blue,
10K and 50/50. Shop most of our on-line sponsors for Ice Cap ballasts. They will
drive anything from NO (normal output) HO, VHO, Compact Fluorescent, T-5, etc.
These are nice ballasts, I have
two. Enjoy. Craig>
Doing the Fluoro Salsa.. or Was It a Rumba?
>Good afternoon! For Bob Fenner and other marvelous WWM FAQ crew.
>>Good day to yourself as well. How goes it?
>Recently, my full-spectrum (daylight) fluorescent tube had been out-aged and
cannot be used for more. After that, I ask my assistant to buy a daylight tube
(I know this is seems to be not wise, because handling an knowledgeable task
without supervising can make a wrong choice and creates one more problem) but I
haven't much choice, I'm too busy for my stacking homework.
>>Understood.
>So, when he go home and I see what type of lighting he bought, I see it's a
little bit different from the previous one. The light wasn't white-colored, but
rather violet hued and seems not too strong to support autotrophic organisms in
my aquarium. For example, my two Tridacna derasa clam (sorry -- it's not
Tridacna maxima, I realized the species shortly after
sending you the email) still exposes their broad mantles, but I'm not sure if
the zooxanthellae can tolerate another type of lighting.
>>I like T. derasa myself, my friend.
>Do you know the type of lighting and is it good for my clams?
>>I'm afraid not, my friend. What you would need is to look for
the manufacturer's specifications on the bulb. I am guessing that you
may have what is called a "warm white" bulb, in which case it will be
too high in the red end of the spectrum. You should be better getting
a "cool white" bulb, or better yet, possibly calling the shop where
your assistant bought the bulb, tell them what you HAD, and ask if they have
that same bulb.
>And also for my intertidal urchin, Colobocentrus atratus who seems to love
the atmosphere and always tries to creeps out of water. I'm afraid if they will
develop air bubbles in
their test cavity, and slowly dies.
>>No, I doubt they would harm themselves in that way.
>Should I constantly replace the urchin back to water or just leave it alone?
>>As long as it cannot escape from the display completely (and get lost?),
leave it alone. They know where the water is (DOWN!), and will go
back when they feel the need.
>Thank you very much for previous helpful emails !! Sincerely,
Anargha.
>>Alas, I, Marina, cannot take credit for those, but will offer that you
are welcome all the same. Marina
- Looking for that Special Bulb -
I have a 55 gallon marine aquarium with about 7# of live rock, an anemone,
several types of small polyps, and a handful of live plants. It's
obvious that with my current fluorescent lighting and natural sunlight (72 sq ft
of skylights providing mostly indirect light) are adequate, but the coloring of
the reef and inhabitants seems drab. <Then the lighting is likely not
adequate.> My fluorescent fixture only holds one bulb. I would
like a bulb that provides the best spectrum for coralline and invertebrate
(polyps, etc.) health and growth, while also bringing out the vivid colors that
I see in the aquarium shop, such as glowing tentacles on the anemone,
etc. Does such an all-around bulb exist? <Perhaps one of the 50/50
bulbs - combined white and actinic light.>
Thanks,
Dan
<Cheers, J -- >
Lighting questions - 1/29/04
Dear all,
Just a quick question for you on full spectrum fluorescent tubes. <I will do
my best> I am thinking of purchasing the following tube for my 40 gallon
FOWLR tank to try and get a good spread of coralline algae mainly (still looks a
bit to bare on on the rocks, with only a bit spread of coralline colouration).
<Well, coralline seems to do well in muted light with stable calcium levels.
Also a good way to "kick start" coralline growth is to get as much as
you can from various sources. Some online dealers sell these "coralline
packs> Do I need to have bright lighting to encourage this growth as I was
led to believe by my LFS that this algae can grow in caves, so lighting is not
that important. <Lighting is not "THE" key but plays an important
role. I wouldn't go bright, but it will grow regardless. I think coralline
sources and saturated stable calcium levels play a more important role in the
formation of coralline than lighting> Tanks inhabitants are a Shrimp Goby and
Pistol shrimp buddy, Six line Wrasse and a Firefish, along with a few Cerith
snails and hermits. <Not coralline eaters so you should be fine here> I'm
pretty new to the hobby (getting on for a year with the tank). The tube I had in
mind is an Activa 172 made by a company named Sylvania. <Sylvania is a fine
company but I am not familiar with their aquarium tubes> The description is
as follows:
Activa 172 Full Spectrum Tube 2ft 18W Daylight 6500°K full spectrum lamp with
near perfect colour rendering index Ra) of 98%. The Activa 172 range are ideal
for use in design, print and publishing where excellent light quality and
supreme colour rendering are paramount. <Sounds like this bulb is not an
aquarium specific bulb. So the problem may be the spectrum is more orange, red
and yellow which are used fairly quickly within the water, usually as heat. Go
with a 50/50 tube (manufacturer is not as important with N/O
florescent per se) See if you can't find a bulb made for aquariums>
Also emitting a tiny amount of UV light, these lamps are the closest available
alternative to natural daylight and ideal for counteracting the effects of SAD.
Specifications
18 Watts
Fitting: 2-pins 13mm apart (G13)
Length: 600mm
Diameter: 25mm
Finish: Full spectrum
Colour Temperature: 6500°K
The tank currently has one 10000K and one blue moon actinic, and I wish to add a
third bulb (on another ballast I have) and thought a full spectrum would help
the growth. <Likely will> My question is really, would it help or am I
wasting my time with the lighting? <See initial response. The answer
is.....well....maintain calcium levels and add more coralline algae from another
source. Lighting is the last thing I would add to the scenario. ~Paul>
Many thanks,
M. Wright
Marine Set-up Questions
Thanks for the advice on drilling my tank. I got my wet dry set up and
running. I got a few questions that I couldn't find in the FAQs. My first
question, are there any advantages/disadvantages to placing the heater in
the tank or in the sump?
<The tank provides more steady, evenly dispersed heating... and is a real
bonus location should the pump/circulation mechanism to/through the sump fail...
But heater/s in the sump are far less conspicuous and less-easily broken>
Second, I want to use diatomaceous earth in my
aquarium. Should I buy the swimming pool or food grade?
<Mmm, you don't want to "add" DE to your tank... perhaps for use in
a designated filter... either source will work for this>
And finally, I
probably need to replace my compact fluorescents (it's been about 6 months).
Are there any differences between the various brands for the bulbs?
<Some... best to chat over this issue with folks on the various marine
aquarium BB's>
I
noticed some people selling no brand name bulbs on eBay which are even
cheaper than www.thatfishplace.com or any of the LFS. Thanks for your help.
Thomas
<Yes... worth investigating here. Lamps are actually made by very few
companies on this planet... and relabeled by many others. Bob Fenner>
Marine Lighting
dear Mr.. Fenner,
saw your article
re: marine lighting. some questions here; a
6200K, 2600Lumens 36W at 48"L (Philips) but no idea if it's full spectrum or what
and the CRI rating does not indicated at the label. what's written was only
daylight and a sort of "Fluotone", what I understood about your article was that
bulb is close enough to natural daylight. is it good enough as a light source for
a reef tank? my tank is 72"Lx18"Dx19"H,please elaborate... thanks! -Arnold
<I would seek this information from the manufacturer. Believe me, they have
tested for these values. I strongly suspect however that the lamp is
full-spectrum due to the Kelvin rating (6,200). Look on the Internet for Philips
site, and if not posted, write them via their contact information re. Bob
Fenner>
VHO brand preferences?
Hello,
Thanks before hand for the quick response and great advising. I just
was wondering if you guys over there have a preference for a VHO bulb brand? <<
I do like the URI bulbs because they have those built in reflectors, and I think
that is awesome. >> I'm replacing my old bulbs soon and was wondering if there
is any type you'd recommend over what I was using with is URI bulbs. In CMA Bob
gives a recommendation for Vita-Lux tubes and from what I've found online they
make some VHO tubes. If you guys have any preference let me know :) << Nope, I
think you're fine. >>Thanks again
Chris AKA "fishtank"
<< Blundell >>
NO and VHO bulb differences
Hello,
Now I'm more confused. I have Coralife 50/ 50 and 10,000 k but the wattage is
only 40. << As in 40 watt normal output fluorescent lights? I'll assume so. >>
I was under the impression that these were VHO, at least that's what I've been
told. << Are they 4 feet long? If so, they are not VHO but are NO. Four foot
VHO bulbs are 110 watt. >> I do not think I've seen wattage higher than 40 watts
in this area. Can you the recommend somewhere to find higher wattage, maybe on
the internet. << Oh boy lots of areas. If those lights are like 18 inches long
and are 40 watt, then they are VHO, but not if they are four feet long. I hate
to recommend an online store, but I guess you asked me to. I'll recommend Hello
Lights because they have supported my work and online articles. Know that you
will need new ballasts and end caps and everything if you switch bulbs. You
can't just take out NO bulbs and replace them with VHO bulbs. >> thanks
Jennifer.
<< Blundell >>
72 radium bulb
hi guys,
just wanted to know if anyone makes a 20k radium VHO bulb...preferably
72 inch...do you know where I could buy them if so??
thanks, << I don't know if anyone makes them, but I'm sure www.hellolights.com
would be a good place to check. >>
Rick
<< Blundell >>
I have a 55gal fish/soon to be reef. I have 2 24" strip lights that hold 18" bulbs. Id like to know what type of lighting/bulbs I should get just to be able to keep a few small corals. Such as a brain or two and a torch or two.
I'd also like to be able to keep a derasa clam. I want the most inexpensive I can get. The bulbs in there now are 15w fluorescents. I was told that I could use a 50/50 in each strip light and one large blue bulb, is this true? I don't want to buy PC lights, too much $$ for my budget right now. Any info is
appreciated!!
>>
Hmm, well as big a penny pincher as I am (I've made tears come to a buffalo's, Bison bison, eyes by squeezing old nickels), I must remark that this isn't an inexpensive hobby... and that the tridacnid clams need lots (intense), full spectrum light of high Kelvin rating, high CRI... that generally can only be rendered (in a tank of the depth of a 55, 22") via VHO fluorescents, CF's and/or Metal Halides...
The lighting you have now is, as you know/suspect, entirely under-powered...
The least (initial) cost that can get you near what you want support (not much growth) wise is a couple of double 4 foot shop lights (very cha-heep) with full spectrum, RO (Regular Output) lamps... like 3 Dura Vita-Lites... and one Actinic... your choice of manufacturer...
However, do/should point out the "false economy" of this approach... in the long haul (a couple of years)... you would/will be better off... cost of power, looks, function, replacement of fixtures... "just" saving up, investing in Compact Fluorescents...
Bob Fenner
Light Reports - GE & Sylvania?
Recently GE and Sylvania have been advertising lights "10,000 k
saltwater fluorescents". The prices are so low ($10 - $13.00 for 48", 40
watts) they raise suspicions - either these are cheap & useless, or we
have been ripped off by the other "premium" suppliers. Has anyone seen
any tests on these lights?
Charlie
>>
Actually, these lamps have been "with us" for decades for other purposes... and the same companies (and two others) make the "premium" (i.e. relabeled/otherwise labeled) lamps... and the cost differences are mainly due to added layers of distribution.
The actual cost of production of fluorescent lamps is... quite low, the gear to make them, a few million dollars U.S.... just like oil/petroleum products, they're "free", until you go through the costs and mark-ups of production, packaging/labeling, marketing/sales and distribution.
Bob Fenner, who begged Dura Corp. to allow marketing of their products in the industry for many years (the Vita Lite debuted in 1967).
Standard Fluorescent lights
Hi Bob.
I have been reading on the GARF web site about the bullet proof reef
system.
<What makes these "bullet proof"?>
There are many links on there that show absolutely beautiful reefs
grown with standard fluorescent tubes. They even show gorgeous 55ga. tanks
ran on as little as three tubes. Highly recommended are the Triton and Blue
Moon tubes. 2 Tritons to 1 Blue Moon. As the tanks mature they add one or
two more tubes.
<Yes, all possible>
How plausible is this? Does it really work? One lady has over 40 tanks
running by this method that she used to propagate corals for sales. It would
sure be nice if it were true and it really prospers as they say on GARF.
<Matching other factors and taking more time are all part of these formulae>
Another topic on S.O. tubes. A few years ago in FAMA a gent hooked up
S.O tubes to Ice Cap ballast and had a much higher output coming from them.
<Yes>
If I remember correctly, almost as high as the VHO tubes.
<Not of PAR>
He was blown away by
the results. Do you remember reading that? Did he ever do a follow up report
and put it in FAMA?
<Why not investigate on your own?>
Your thoughts on this Mr. (World Traveler) Fenner.
Zimmy
<Start saving and come out with us. Plenty of room. Bob Fenner> Vitalites, Dura Corp.
>They're Back!<
I have been looking long and hard for the Vita-Lite locally. I called
the 800 number and left a message. No response yet.
<The manufacturer (Dura of NJ) is no more... you might find some old stock about though>
What I finally found from
a local lighting shop is the General Electric Chromoline 50 .... F30 T12
C50RS
I read over all of the lighting information you have on the web site
and you do list this as an OK light source.
<Great product>
I hope that my reading
comprehension is working for me. My tank is 65 gallons and slightly tall. I
have room for 4 of these in a 36 inch length. Should I add a blue light as
well? What brand/type should I pursue.
<I would make one of the four an actinic 003 lamp>
Someone bought the monstrous sea slug at the local store. I noticed
when I went in to look at lighting.
<Mmm, it might have perished>
No one there can really help me, they
know as much as I do...nil to nada. For all your help if you ever get to
Southwest Missouri I will have to feed you (own a restaurant).
Thanks Bob,
Trisha
<Yum. Bob Fenner>
SO Bulb Color
Dear Robert,
<Sorry, but you got Steven Pro. Bob is out of town for a while and he asked Anthony Calfo and I to fill in for the weekend.>
Can you tell me if the G.E. Aqua Rays Aquarium Tube that comes with the
Oceanic Systems Nature View Deluxe Strip Light is a full spectrum bulb? I have checked with That Fish Place and others, but have not been able to get a definitive answer. Hopefully you have the resources to find the answer.
<I have used the GE bulbs. They are good for a fish only tank, but I would not recommend them for photosynthetic plants and animals.>
Thank you for your time, Mike
Lighting question for 55g reef
Hello Bob. I have a question about lighting for a
reef. I plan to get four NO bulbs for my 55g, and
other than the lighting, the tank is reef ready. My
question is, should I go with the normal 2 10,000k and 2
actinics, or a different combo?
<I would use three of the 10K lamps and just one actinic... more of the wavelength, photons you want>
I was thinking maybe
the two actinics, and two sunshine bulbs, from GE that
are 5000k 90cri. Would this make the tank look ugly
and too yellow? What do you recommend?
<These should be fine... for all but high-intensity light organisms (like tridacnid clams, many SPS corals)... otherwise, I'd be saving up for compact fluorescents. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>Re: lighting question for 55g reef
Thanks Bob. One more thing. What company would you
recommend for the bulbs, like Coralife, zoomed, Hagen,
or INTERPET?
<Any of these company's lamps are fine (none of them actually make them)>
Also, if I did the two actinics and two
5000k's, would the tank look yellow?
<Not "that yellow" to me, but would look for 6,700K temperature or higher. Bob Fenner>
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Fluorescent Lites
Robert and colleagues,
What is your opinion of the Ott full spectrum fluorescent bulb. It is 5000K
and a CRI of 96. Any good for marine applications (zooxanthellae, etc.)?
<Don't have personal experience with these folks lighting (their lamps are very likely OEM'ed), but the values stated for temperature and CRI are very good... and full spectrum... likely of good aquarium use. Please read over the articles on light, lighting and related FAQs files for the type of application (freshwater, marine...) posted on WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner>
Dave B
Lighting Question
Hi Bob or Anthony,
<tweedle-dum here...>
Another quick question: (I got such great advice the first time I figured I'd pester you folks again).
<we make half of the stuff up, but it's convincing>
If I was going to upgrade from standard fluorescents to HO or VHO bulbs
<no HO...a dying technology. VHO or Power compacts please>
would it be possible to get a strip light fixture from a place like the Home Depot to operate them in?
<a reflector yes, but nothing else. Need specialized end caps and ballast>
And would I still need to invest in a good ballast too?
<yes... and Icecaps have good customer service>
I figure the brighter light would not only be great for the fishes but also for casting some cheer during the gray winter
(Feb.'s the worst on the east coast). Thanks guys. "Warm" regards, Adam
<alas, an expensive but worthwhile investment. Cheers from "sunny" Pittsburgh PA. Anthony>
Lighting
Hello Bob, Tony, Steve
My question concerns lighting for my 180 reef tank. Currently I'm using 2 VHO 160 watt actinics plus 2 VHO 50-50 bulbs to light the tank. What I'm wondering is if there is a combination of bulbs that would give me a deeper blue hue to the tank? I know that they make 1000k and 2000k bulbs in VHO now, and wonder if they wouldn't be better than the 50-50's? Probably the highest light demanding
animal in my tank is either xenia sp. or a Squamosa clam. I get really great coral growth now, but would like a deeper blue look to the tank. As always your help is greatly appreciated.
<The easiest thing to do is change to three actinic and one full spectrum if that is your desired look. One word of caution, what you desire to see may not be the best lighting for your animal. Also, I will give you a tip. I love URI lamps and in particular the combination of two
actinics, one white actinic, and one
AquaSun (full spectrum) lamp. This has a nice blue tint and has also demonstrated healthy growth.>
Be talking, Joe G
<Talk to you later. -Steven Pro>
VHO replacement question
Hello Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
Long time no talk, how have you been?
<so busy that he has had to graciously solicit friends to help out with the
uber-site that we all know and love as WWM <smile>>
I am getting ready to order and replace my VHO bulbs on my reef. I have always been using URI VHO bulbs, 2 actinic white 50/50, and 1 super actinic blue.
<a most excellent combination...and I love the brand. Before my coral greenhouse, I had gone through tens of bulbs indoors and settled quite happily on the URI products (I especially love the blues)>
Although I notice that there is one called an AquaSun daylight 10,000k also made by URI. Should I keep the combination I have been using for my 30 gallon mixed reef, (hard and soft corals, clams anemones and live rock) or change it up a bit?
<you definitely have the best combination for a mixed garden display...I would not recommend a change>
Also 8-10 months still good on replacement time of bulbs?
<exactly for VHO lamps>
As in the past, I really respect and appreciate any and all advice you share with me.
<Bob is truly a great guy and one heck of a team player... he is a jewel in the aquarium industry. With kind regards, Anthony
Calfo>
Take care, Rob
Lighting
WWM Crew,
What comments do you have about Full Spectrum Solutions' full spectrum bulbs?
Spectra 5900: CRI 93, 5900K, 2500-3100 lumens
Maxum 5000: CRI 91, 5000K, 3600 lumens
http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/Fluorescent.htm
I know Bob loves the Vita-Lites and was curious as to whether or not anyone knows anything about these.
Thanks again. ~Rob
<Sorry, but I have never heard of them. URI is my brand/company of choice. -Steven Pro>
Lighting
A quick couple of questions. I am purchasing some new URI VHO 36" 95W
lighting for my 55gal fish/invert. This is a three bulb system. The question is
which bulb combination do you suggest. The available bulbs are Actinic White
50/50, Actinic 03 and Aqua Sun.
<I would use one of each. All are great lamps for a good company.>
Also note that I may add a 4th in the future as my IceCap ballast can support
this. These bulbs have an internal reflector, do you think I need to add a
reflector?
<Not absolutely necessary, but will increase the amount of light into the
tank somewhat.>
Thanks, Dennis Vigliotte
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
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