Tenecor - still in business? 10/13/10
Hello WWM Crew,
<Wendy>
I have a question maybe you can help me with. I work for a small aquarium maintenance company, and we have 5 orders placed with Tenecor, which are now 8-9 weeks out from date of order. They were supposed to be 4-6 weeks!
<Hmm, unusual>
I have tried unsuccessfully to contact Tenecor over the past 2 weeks, via phone, e-mail, even fax. I am beginning to wonder if this company has gone under.... have you heard anything?
<I have not, but just called, left a msg...>
Any whisperings you have heard would be greatly appreciated.
Wendy
<http://tenecor.com/
Bob Fenner>

Larger Sized Aquarium (96x30x30) -- Glass or Acrylic?   6/22/10
Hi Crew,
<<Hiya Rick>>
I'm in the design stage for a 96x30x30 aquarium (built into wall).
<<Neat, and is exactly what I did back in 2003'¦same size display tank and all!>>
After hours and hours of reading/research and evaluating the pros/cons,
<<Lots to consider>>
I was leaning towards acrylic (I was thinking Tenecor - we have a distributor here in Edmonton).
<<Mine is a Tenecor-built tank, I've had it since 2003. No complaints here'¦>>
But after recent readings, in particular on Jeff Turner's website (he is a strong advocate to glass), I'm having second thoughts...and Concept Aquariums (also here in Edmonton) make excellent glass tanks/black industrial strength silicone, etc.
<<There are certainly pros and cons to both. Do your research and go with what you are most comfortable/will be most happy with>>
My major concern is (as I suspect everyone's) a seam splitting/letting go.
<<Indeed (and have experienced this)'¦>>
Based on the Q&A section from your website, it occurs with both larger glass and acrylic.
<<Not just 'large' tanks at risk here>>
With modern construction methods, which has the better track record?
<<With quality construction of both, I would give the edge to acrylic. An acrylic tank will 'give' a bit more than a glass tank should there be a fault with the support structure (this is how my previous in-wall display ruptured). Regardless which tank material you choose, give much thought to the construction of a strong, level, and planar support stand designed for the material used>>
I also see comments about acrylic yellowing over time.
<<Has not happened with my 7-year old tank'¦though I have seen a couple 'older' and not as well/more cheaply made acrylic tanks that exhibited this. I suspect much has to do with the manufacturer/manufacturing of the acrylic, and the quality of the material used in the tank construction>>
Is this still a problem with the higher quality of cast acrylic now being used?
<<Not that I have heard about or experienced>>
Love the website and appreciate your feedback/expertise.
Rick Campbell
<<Happy to share'¦ Eric Russell>>

Re: Larger Sized Aquarium (96x30x30) -- Glass or Acrylic? -- 06/23/10
Eric,
<<Hey Rick>>
Thanks for the quick feedback.
<<Quite welcome>>
In regards to your tank, (in particular) have you had problems with scratching (hazing/crazing) - either the interior or exterior?
This is obviously the other fear with acrylic
<<Indeed'¦ This is one aspect of acrylic tanks that needs to be kept in mind any time you do any maintenance in or around the tank. Crazing is normal and usually doesn't cause any problems if the tank was assembled/manufactured correctly (e.g. -- a sufficiently wide radius used when cutting corners for openings in the top panel). You're still going to get some amount of crazing here and at the joints, but in my observations and experience, this has not proven to be problematic. Scratching is a more serious concern'¦ EVERYTHING can/will scratch an acrylic tank'¦this does include your livestock. I've had Urchins mar the acrylic while munching on the Coralline I let grow in the corners for too long (this too mars the acrylic), and I have a Powder Blue Tang that slap at its' reflection in the panels as the lights go out, leaving tiny marks with its 'scalpels.' But these are miniscule compared to the greatest danger to an acrylic tank'¦THE AQUARIST! You will do far more incidental damage than any other organism'¦and ironically, mostly while 'cleaning' the viewing panels. But fear not, this is not as dire as some may think. Most 'marks' left on the panels are insignificant (though they don't 'look' that way), and while unsightly, they can usually be easily rectified. There's a wonderful product called 'Micro-Mesh' that every acrylic aquarium owner should have in their arsenal. This micro-crystalline abrasive can be used 'underwater' without harm to your tank's inhabitants, and there are even 'magnet kits' for use with your Algae-Free or Magnavore cleaning magnet. It's not cheap, but I find keeping a fine pad of Micro-Mesh on my cleaning magnet at all times not only speeds up the chore, but also keeps those unsightly scratches at bay>>
...although I presently have an acrylic sump that I abuse, and there are NO signs of hazing/crazing/deep scratches.
<<As stated, scratching is a problem'¦though not as much as most think with a little careful thought given re. I will warn though, stay on top of those Coralline deposits. It is difficult to remove (best done with a heavy-duty scraper 'made of acrylic,' not plastic'¦can be DIY'd) and etches the acrylic, getting worse the longer it is left alone>>
Also, any signs of your tank bowing along the front panel?
<<None'¦ But this is due to the quality ¾' acrylic Tenecor used, as well as the robust support web of the top panel (also ¾'). Pay the extra dosh to go with an established and reputable manufacturer>>
Rick
<<Cheers'¦ EricR>>

Re: Tenecor simplicity plus 90 gallon skimmer upgrade  7/12/09
Thank you so much for the reply and opinions. As far as the lighting I was wondering if the whole unit was strong enough for soft corals such as the Goni and Rhizo. I was looking to replace it with a 48" 8 bulb T5 unit. The Zoa seem fine but I would like to provide a enough light to assure these two thrive well. The actinics are on 12 hours and whites on for 10.
<I would trade in all, or at least all but one of the actinics>
Going to contact aqua c this afternoon (which I did and the housing of the Urchin Pro will not fit) and will see what Gary from ETSS has to say about hooking up the refugium this morning(no answer) but think the refugium would be more beneficial to the animals . If the aqua c can fit back there perhaps I can create a 10 gallon refuge in the back with some Chaeto and power heads. If not I may just pull the sump out and square off the overflow box. leaving the rest open and possibly create a wall with rock to give a backdrop on the tank versus a clear wall. how much rock may I add?
<As much as seems reasonable>
Is there too much as far as a limit. another issue I think with the tank is my fault with overfeeding. Although the fish are only fed twice a day.
They are like dogs and always beg for food. I know the rule of feeding what they will consume in a couple of minutes but their begging and comical antics seem to invite a little more. They are being fed 2 krill a pinch of flake brine, pinch of formula 2 and occasionally frozen mysis shrimp drained. Is there any inverts that would stir up the substrate and aid in the cleansing process although I do vacuum the best I can?
<Please see WWM re sand stirrers>
Do the coral skeletons hurt the system or would it be better to add live rock in its place.
<?>
Sorry for the abundance of questions and grammatical errors, but I admire and honor you opinions. James also in the parameters I forgot to add sal is 1.023 temp is 78-80 regulated by fans and ph 8.2
<BobF>

Re: Tenecor simplicity plus 90 gallon skimmer upgrade  7/12/09
Thank you so much for the reply and opinions. As far as the lighting I was wondering if the whole unit was strong enough for soft corals such as the Goni and Rhizo. I was looking to replace it with a 48" 8 bulb T5 unit. The Zoa seem fine but I would like to provide a enough light to assure these two thrive well. The actinics are on 12 hours and whites on for 10.
<I would trade in all, or at least all but one of the actinics>
Going to contact aqua c this afternoon (which I did and the housing of the Urchin Pro will not fit) and will see what Gary from ETSS has to say about hooking up the refugium this morning(no answer) but think the refugium would be more beneficial to the animals . If the aqua c can fit back there perhaps I can create a 10 gallon refuge in the back with some Chaeto and power heads. If not I may just pull the sump out and square off the overflow box. leaving the rest open and possibly create a wall with rock to give a backdrop on the tank versus a clear wall. how much rock may I add?
<As much as seems reasonable>
Is there too much as far as a limit. another issue I think with the tank is my fault with overfeeding. Although the fish are only fed twice a day.
They are like dogs and always beg for food. I know the rule of feeding what they will consume in a couple of minutes but their begging and comical antics seem to invite a little more. They are being fed 2 krill a pinch of flake brine, pinch of formula 2 and occasionally frozen mysis shrimp drained. Is there any inverts that would stir up the substrate and aid in the cleansing process although I do vacuum the best I can?
<Please see WWM re sand stirrers>
Do the coral skeletons hurt the system or would it be better to add live rock in its place.
<?>
Sorry for the abundance of questions and grammatical errors, but I admire and honor you opinions. James also in the parameters I forgot to add sal is 1.023 temp is 78-80 regulated by fans and ph 8.2
<BobF>