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FAQs on Algae as Food: Culture
Related Articles: Algae as Food,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Culturing
Food Organisms,
Culturing Macro-Algae; Red Algae in
General, Marine Algae,
Algae Can Be Your Friend, Related
FAQs: Algae Foods 1,
Algae Foods 2, Algae Foods 3, & FAQs
on Algae Food: Rationale/Use,
Sources, Feeding Methods,
Troubleshooting/Fixes, Products,
& Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 1,
Phytoplankton,
Marine Algae, Coral Feeding, Brine
Shrimp, Vitamins, Nutritional
Disease, Frozen Foods,
Coral Feeding, Growing Reef Corals, Culturing
Food Organisms, Red Algae, See
also the individual groups of organisms feeding FAQs files | 
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Phytoplankton culture and culture density measurement 7/7/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
I would like to say thank you in advance for
your time. I have a few questions with regards to culturing
phytoplankton. The purpose is for a small look at invertebrate larvae
nutrition requirements. My primary reference is Dr. Toonen's 1996 "Home
Breeder's FAQ for Marine Invertebrates". I am not a "real scientist" I
originally only wanted to set up a nano-reef, but I got sidetracked
while reading.
<Sounds good>
In establishing my culture, I'm
planning to use local natural seawater (I'm on the coast of NC) that I
will pasteurize. I am also planning to use the commercial Micro-Algae
Grow formula as my nutrient. The phytoplankton cultured will be fed to
invertebrate larvae (species as yet undetermined) that are maturing in
aerated flasks (also pasteurized NSW, but no other nutrients added).
Larvae growth will be measured by optical microscopy.
1. In order to
determine if the larvae are feeding, I need to know the density of algae
in culture at different points in time following feeding. I can do this
by making cell counts, however: A Sedgewick-Rafter counting cell seems
too large (1mL volume) for the densities recommended, even a Palmer
counting cell (.1mL volume) seems excessive. There are gridded
Sedgewick-Rafter cells available, including one from Aquatic Eco-Systems
that is reasonably priced. Can I responsibly use a gridded cell?
<Yes, I have used these>
Or, because I cannot ensure an even
distribution of plankton across the grid is this a bad idea?
<Will
be able to get enough distribution that by randomly counting a number of
cells, you should be able to get good approximations>
2. Even
allowing for a gridded cell, a microscopic cell count will take time. I
know from your site and others, that it is not possible to get an
accurate density measurement solely by eying the coloration of the
culture, but I got the impression that this had to do with "eyeballing"
the culture. I have the opportunity to pick up a used spectrophotometer
cheap... If I measure take the absorption at x nm* for different
densities of algae, wouldn't I get a reasonably accurate count of algae
density?
<Yes... a simpler device, a colorimeter (one set wavelength
of light for absorption/transmission) will/would even work here. You
can/should develop your own "curve" for density (counted) versus
readings with this tool>
*-where x would be determined by trial and
error 3. This is the worst question I guess, and if you tell me to keep
searching I understand: I find it's easy to get life cycle information
(when it exists) for a species when you already know it's name, etc. But
I have not found a database of larval stage characteristics of
ornamental invertebrates. Could you recommend a test subject? Ideally it
would be: a. cheap and common, b. externally fertilizing, c. easy to
induce gamete release, d. has a planktotrophic larvae phase that lasts
less than 2 weeks.
<There is much known re "close" invertebrate
species, but this takes a bit of familiarity, practice in "searching the
literature"... I strongly encourage your visiting a large college
library (of a school with a Bio./Zoology dept.), and having a Reference
Librarian "show you the ropes"... Computer search bibliographies are
very productive here... and a lot of fun... "Time whips by"...>
Part
d. is the hard one to search for.
<Not too difficult as you will
find>
Again, thank you for your time. Your site is an incredible
resource.
-Tony
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>
Phytoplankton, reactor 7/4/06
Hi folks. I have been
wondering if a AquaMedic Phytoplankton reactor would be useful in my
reef tank. I have a 180 gal. reef tank with a DSB (
275gal. total
system water). Two refugiums are also running on this system.
<Very
nice>
The first is a live rock with a DSB with blue light. The
second is an upstream fuge with Chaeto and no sand with light running
opposite. The tank
has been running for seven months and I have gone
thru the predictable algae bloom sequences. But the most fascinating
event is when the macro algae
vanished for no apparent reason.
During the fifth and the sixth month I was battling Derbesia turf in
numerous location on my live rocks. Early in the set-up I put two Emeral
<Bam! Emerald>
crabs in hopes to control this Algae. In addition I
put a Sailfin Tang and a bunch of Hermits crabs and a variety of Algae
eating snails to control it. Since the snails eat only Micro-Algae and
the Emeralds might eat the turf Algae I wasn't convinced that they were
guilty of eliminating all of turf Algae. My own theory is that I think
the loss
of algae was from the maturing of the whole system and the
uptake of nutrients from the two refugiums.
<Very likely the
principal factor>
All parameters of the tank are in normal range.
Phosphate were high in the first three months and then zero.
Currently my fish and coral list is Purple tang, Sailfin tang, Lemon
Peel Angel, Lawnmower Blenny, Mandarin Goby, Sandsifting Goby. Coral:
Ricordea,
Euphyllia ancora, Frogspawn, Mushroom, Feather Duster,
Crocea Clam, pulsing Xenia.
My questions is does the lighted
refugiums/scraping of algae off the grass provides enough Phytoplanton
to feed the tank on a constant basis?
<Mmm, plankton... is floating
not attached... but likely the reproductive events of the glass-attached
algae are contributing some algal plankton>
I like the Idea of the
reactor feeding some of my inverts plus provide foods for the
zooplankton in my refugiums.
<Me too>
But Is it already
happening anyway?
<To some extent, yes>
My other question is how
do Copepods travel from the refugiums to feed my fish and Corals?
<Yes... get "sucked up", pumped, or overflowed (depending on make-up of
your systems components...)>
Does it take some human intervention
like stirring of sand or shaking of the refugiums?
<Mmm, nope>
Thanks for taking the time to answer every e-mails that come your way
including mine.
Sincerely
Stephan
<Thank you for writing,
sharing. Bob Fenner> Growing algae 6/25/06 -
I
seemed to have read somewhere I could place my own rocks in the sun to
grow algae so that I would have a constant source of natural food for my
yellow tang. I am obviously doing something wrong, as I have had
several pieces of dead rock outside in a glass, and even tried plastic,
container
for over two weeks and nothing. Most days are very sunny
with 90° temperatures here. Any advice would be appreciated.
Laura
<<Laura: If I understand correctly what you are saying, you are trying
to grow algae on rocks outside in the air so then you can harvest the
algae off the rocks or put the rocks back in the water. Correct? Well,
I don't know where you read that; but, any algae that would grow on the
rock outside of the tank would probably pollute the tank or not be the
type of algae that the Tang would want to eat. The better way to get
algae to feed your Tang would be to buy Seaweed Sheets (called Nori)
that the Japanese use to make sushi. You can find Nori in most Asian
markets. In most pet shops they sell clips with suction cups that you
can attach to the inside of the tank and clip the Nori to. If you can't
find the clip, you can attach some Nori to a rock with a rubber band and
place it inside the tank for the Tang to feed on. Best of luck, Roy>>
Re: growing algae 6/25/06 -
Thank you for your
response. I actually have the clip and Nori strips, but I was trying to
give them a variety of food. I am most appreciative of your help.
Laura
<<Laura: Glad to hear you already know about Nori. I used to
feed it very regularly and then I noticed a lot of algae building up on
the rocks in my tank. I realized that the Tangs would just sit around
and wait for me to feed them Nori every day. Now, I only provide it as
an occasional treat and every one of them seems fat and happy. If you
don't have enough algae growing naturally to sustain them, and you want
variety, here are some other options. You can buy Julian Sprung's
Seaweed Selects. While fairly expensive (compared to Nori), they will
give you variety you can buy off the shelf. Another option is for you
to learn how to grow Gracilaria macroalgae (also known as Tang Heaven
because they like it so much) in a separate tank. Tangs will also
usually eat Chaetomorpha macroalgae, though I have read that some people
think it is not as good as Gracilaria for their Tangs. If you do some
more research, you may find other varieties of macroalgae that Tangs
will eat. Best of luck, Roy>>
DIY DT's
I want
to make my own DT's. From what I have found, all it is saltwater in a
jar that sits under light and kept warm for a week or two. The water
will turn green and then you have DT's. Is this true?
<Not exactly.>
If so how can they sell it for $16.00? There has to be more to this.
<Please take a look at the following articles:
http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/r_toonen_102500.html
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/ds/index.htm>
Thanks so
much for your time!
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
BGA in
algae cultures
The aquaculture facility I work for is
encountering problems with BGA in our batch culture system. The water
used is filtered down to .35micrometers and it is UV'ed. BGA is
predominantly in our T-Iso cultures and is becoming a problem for the
larvae it is being fed too.
Could you advise on how to eliminate
BGA all together? Any advice would be appreciated.
<The S.O.P. is to
bleach/acid wash the contaminated cultures and start over with
Cyanobacteria-free culture media and Isochrysis... You likely know this
already... sorry to be the re-enforcer of not-so-good news. Bob Fenner>
Cathy -Yummy, yummy Ogo-
I have a Naso tang and it
loves to much on "Ogo" (Gracilaria?). I know that people use it in
sumps for nutrient export, but currently, I don't have a sump (using a
skimmer and LR/LS and regular water changes). What would be the best
way to keep Ogo fresh? In a bucket with SW? Should I run a filter? <It
should be lit, kept at 76-82 deg, and filtered. You should be able to
keep it for weeks like this in a bucket or small aquarium. Your Naso
will thank you! -Kevin> Or just a powerhead? Thanks. Yun
Too LITTLE Algae??
>WWM Gunk Guru:
>>Surely you can't mean
ME.
>After months of fighting hair algae and Cyano-slime, I seem to
have suddenly reversed fortunes. I have a Lawnmower (Jeweled
Rockskipper) Blenny that has feasted for months since the setup of my
100 gallon reef tank on all kinds of single cell annoyances, gaining a
stomach that would make a Hell's Angel proud. To give him some buffet
dining partners, I added some small Sally Lightfoot crabs and a Rock
Boring Urchin (true name, it's not very exciting to watch) along with
100 small blue leg and red hermit crabs, and about two dozen snails of
various flavors. I've also upped my skimmer to an Aqua-C Remora Pro, and
setup a nice little ozonizer that spits out 100 mg of O3 per hour and
keeps the RedOx at about 310 mV or so. I've finally added a juvi Regal
tang (Doryiatus disneyus) that has a bottomless stomach for algae ...
and, I now have to squint like Clint Eastwood to find any algae at all.
The drawback it that I've noticed my Blenny is losing some weight, and
the Sally Lightfooters seem to have less and less to munch on. The Rock
Boring Urchin cruises over the entire landscape much more frequently in
what I assume is a heightened search for yummy green snacks. So (here's
the question, thanks for waiting)
>>Believe it or not, my pleasure!
>...have I over-controlled my algae?
>>It certainly sounds like it,
especially if you're relying on the algae alone to meet the dietary
needs of these denizens. Could it be time to consider setting up a
'fuge for macros?
>I could stand to give away or lose everything that
needs it, except for the Blenny, who was my first fish and has survived
major ammonia spikes and a 10-minute fresh air dip...
>><GIGGLE!>
>Thanks, SLC
>>Would it be out of the question to set up a 'fuge or
otherwise supplement their diets? If not, consider either or both
options, with the additions of Nori and romaine lettuce. Otherwise, you
may very well indeed have to remove some of these animals, and I would
start with the Sally Lightfoot crabs and some snails. Crabs first, for
sure. I'd like you to keep the urchin, just because it's really
boring. Marina Growing Gracilaria
[*Note
to Bob: Chris has shared with us a nice summary of his experience
growing the popular macroalgae Gracilaria here. Perhaps we can place it
prominently I the archives or FAQs for easy access/referral by the crew
and WWM readers? Thanks, Anthony]
<Will do, Bob>
Growing
Gracilaria 11/11/03
Hi Anthony, Thanks for your advise in response my
previous email regarding the growth of Gracilaria.
<always welcome my
friend>
I am just reporting back to you some good results on growing
Gracilaria - Red Macro Algae.
<much appreciated... this will be very
helpful to add to the consensus for all to see/read and learn from>
In the first 4 weeks I have been very successful in acclimating the
seaweed as I have seen some steady growth... new fronds and full color.
I feel have established a very suitable
environment for this macro
algae to grow effectively. Here are the specifications...
1. A
separate tank - One with high nutrient levels. A tank dedicated to
feeding just the Algae... but high Nutrient Levels a must. I add a
silverside or formula 1 once a week.. but being careful to not overfeed
the tank; over feeding may allow growth of diatoms and other competing
micro
algaes.
<good points here: monospecific culture, as algae
and plants are competitive (chemically and otherwise) with each other
just like reef invertebrates. And the finesse of nutrients... not too
much or too little>
2. Trace Minerals - I dose about 7-8 drops of
both Chelated Iron and Magnesium daily and perform a small monthly water
change to replenish calcium levels and other trace elements.
<the
need varies by system... but you are finding your way here. Excellent>
3. Cold water - best growth for Gracilaria in between 60 F - 70' F.
<this is not necessary, although fine if it worked for you. Much
Gracilaria is grown commercially in the shallows (at surface level) in
the tropical seas on lines and tumbling in baskets>
4. Strong Water
Movement - I have a 800 GPH pump in the sump and it's return to the
hex tank at a 12 " vertical spray bar which pushes & tumbles the
Gracilaria around the tank in a circular motion (like a washing
machine). At no time is any of the seaweed just sitting.... it's always
tumbling.
<yes... excellent and often overlooked by aquarists>
5.
Strong Lighting - I have a 125 Watt Fluorescent Blue Actinic bulb
hanging directly above the water column. Gracilaria grows in deeper
waters and does better with Actinic Lighting.
<again variable here...
the commercial culture of Gracilaria ("Ogo" of food fame) is done so at
the surface of the water. But the genus is adaptable and wide-ranging. I
would suggest more/brighter daylight here to most aquarists>
Please
let me know of any individuals who are interested in purchasing 7-8
ounce portions of Gracilaria at a low price.
They can contact me
directly at XXXX@hotmail.com.
<do be sure to establish it well in
your local market through the LFS and aquarium societies so that you can
retrieve some if/when your colony crashes>
Thanks! Chris
<thank
you very much for sharing this Chris. Its always good to pay it forward.
Anthony>
Phytoplankton dosing schedule and amount? 5/29/04
WetWebCrew,
<cheers>
Thank you once again for your dedication to this
"hobby"!
<a labor of love :) >
We have a 75 gal saltwater reef
tank with a sump (total circulating volume of about 70 - 75
gals. We have been culturing Nanochloropsis from Florida Aqua Farms
in 2 liter plastic soft drink bottles.
<excellent>
After
about a week of starting the initial culture, I have moved half of
the culture to a second 2 liter bottle to continue the culture and
have started dosing the aquarium with the other half.
<yes...
critical to cut and freshen the culture for continued
success/availability>
My goals for dosing phytoplankton are to
increase the biodiversity of the tank, feeding the pods, feather
duster worms (all of which have grown out my LR), sponges (which
have grown out of my LR and asexually reproduced), and my T. Crocea
clam.
<all good... although your tank if its like most needs
far more zooplankton. The culture of rotifers and refugium
micro-zooplankton is as good or better (more useful) than phyto
culture>
Currently I am dosing one half of a cup of the culture
each evening just before the lights go off - just pour the half of a
cup into the tank. We unplug the skimmer and leave it off for 2
hours when we are dosing the phyto.
<do consider a relay switch
to turn this back on automatically... Radio Shack gadgets>
The
dose rate and amount are just something that I decided to start with
since I could not seem to find a scientific consensus
from my
research. Since I am culturing the phyto, I do not know the density
of my culture.
<even still... near impossible to determine the
demand in your tank.>
Do you have any suggestions / guidelines on
the amount of phyto to dose?
<really experimental... like any
nutrient imported, dose in small, gradually increasing portions
until you find the threshold, as indicated by the beginning o a
nuisance algae boom or some such excess-nutrient indicator. Skim
hard after that and step back down to last "safe" dose and ride that
for a while. Periodically push the envelope to see if/when increases
are necessary (just like adding iodine)>
I assume that if I dose
too little then the effect that I am desiring will not happen. What
is the effect of dosing too much? Problems with water quality?
<yes... more or less, although slight if you increase feedings small
and slow>
Thank you in advance! John Bullard
<best of luck,
Anthony>Phytoplankton dosing schedule and amount 5/31/04
Mr. Calfo,
<just call me "Anthony" please my friend... much nicer
than what my family calls me at times <G>>
Thank you for your
time and knowledge to answer our questions!
<always welcome>
You mention:
<<<all good... although your tank if its like most
needs far more
zooplankton. The culture of rotifers and refugium
micro-zooplankton is as good or better (more useful) than phyto
culture>>>
I have a small refugium in my sump with crushed coral
(no macroalgae at this point).
<the macro is not needed unless
you wish to employ a species (avoid mixing species) for "vegetable
filtration" (nutrient export like a bog or bog filter on a garden
pond)>
I was hoping that the phyto dosing would help to increase
the pod population within my tank.
<not likely here... at least
not to any appreciable extent. The crushed coral is very unfriendly
to copepods and small smaller micro-zooplankton. The best you can
hope for are amphipods to grow in crushed coral. Amphipods, however,
don't eat phyto... they eat detritus and lean carrion (leaning
toward a meatier diet... they even prey on small live invertebrates,
larvae, eggs, etc.). While amphipods are great food for fishes, they
are too large for most corals to eat. A fine, deep sand bed is
recommended for copepods here (with or without mud/sediments)>
I
have also been considering culturing rotifers.
<excellent idea>
I wanted to get experience with culturing phyto before taking the
leap in to rotifer culture (since rotifer seems a bit more
complicated and one needs phyto anyway).
<do get a catalog from
Florida Aqua farms... they have all manners of kits and supplies for
rearing zoo- and phytoplankton>
Too increase the zooplankton
population what are your suggestions?
<it depends on what
exactly (mysids, copepods, amphipods, worms, etc.) you are trying to
grow. All do not fare well/equally in the same substrate. Its tough
to sum up in the brevity of an e-mail too. May I suggest you check
out our newest book "Reef Invertebrates"... it has the most
extensive coverage to date on refugium methodologies. With live
sand, live rock, plants and algae chapters, its over 100 of 400
pages>
What does the rotifers do for the system besides adding
zooplankton to the system (I am familiar with their uses with
feeding larval fish)? What is going to feed off the rotifers?
<a
majority of corals and other filter feeding reef invertebrates
including some of the small(er) polyps species>
Thank you! John
Bullard
<best regards, Anthony> |
Kole
Yellow Eye, feeding stones
I read your article on wetwebmedia.com
and I was particularly interested in the section on feeding. I have a
yellow eye that caught ich but I was able to treat him in a quarantine
tank for a few weeks. He has been back in my main 75 gallon reef tank
for three weeks but seems to be on the skinny side and very pale. I was
interested in the sentence that you stated "My favorite "gimmick" with
these fishes is to utilize an algal covered "feeding stone" as a site
for engendering food-taking behavior".
What exactly is a feeding
stone and where might I get one? If you have any other advice on getting
him enough food would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Cauley
<"Feeding stones" are actually made by the aquarist... either in an
aquarium (sans algae eaters) or in other containers (like large jars
near a window), but you won't want to wait to make these. Do look into
buying some palatable macro-algae... either from an online vendor like
Inland Aquatics or Indo-Pacific Sea Farms, or perhaps a local retailer
or hobby-club member. Bob Fenner>
Phytoplankton reactors
9/18/04
I was able to meet Bob Fenner recently in Raleigh and
really enjoyed this.
<he is larger than life... blessed
to know him>
I also now have Anthony's propagation book and it is
outstanding. I was hoping to get feedback about a phytoplankton
reactor.
<all good... but do realize that in aquaria, the
overwhelming demand is for zooplankton. Very little phyto is needed to
support this. It is commonly abused as a supplemental staple IMO>
My
interest is in diversity and nutrition, especially nonphotosynthetic
animals. I'm trying to replicate cryptic environments. The Dendro
thing fascinates me (as it does everybody).
<do consider
other/better aposymbiotic cnidarians like Scleronepth.s and Chile
corals>
My background is clinical neurology. The experimental system
I have consists of a 120 connected to an Ecowheel with a wave 2K, a 120
with Turbelle stream 6200 on controller set up for laminar flow around
a central divider, two twenty five gallons for experiments with
refugia, and a 75 sunlit and compact fluorescent tank DSB currently
culturing Chaetomorpha. I am underwhelmed by the Ecowheel. The system
has a 75 gallon sump with a large Reef Concepts skimmer; automatic top
off and water changes via LiterMeter, SG 1.026. I have tried feeding
Corals and Clams cryopaste and am still working with it. I have plans
to construct a small greenhouse to continue this type of research.
<fantastic to hear... do let me/us know if we can be of help with shared
opinions>
I do think that stirring the sand bed is the best thing
going for nutrition.
<very helpful... agreed>
The
detritus is recycled not added, and interestingly I have noticed that
the sand bed diversity is clearly greater in areas that are gently blown
off twice daily compared to nonstirred areas. I really think a little
storm activity is good for the sand bed. I drain off the turbidity
slowly over the overflow into the sump, and then to the tanks.
<the
reef is quite dynamic even in the calmest parts... much more than our
tanks>
My question is about a phytoreactor that I have going in one
of the 25s. I have grown green water for years- sometimes
unintentionally!- and this is my first attempt at a phyto reactor. I
used DT's to start; I currently add no nutrients. I am not stirring-
this setup reminds me of the saltwater tubs Joyce Wilkerson described
that she keeps outside for rotifer cultures, and that emboldened me to
try not stirring, no airstone. The pH gets high and slows down the
growth. I think the pH is more steady when the lights are turned off at
night allowing some digestion and co2 release. Perhaps the lack of
stirring will help phyto diversity. I am concerned about toxins
generated from this reactor.
<weak issue... no worries>
I'm not sure of the benefit compared to Reed Mariculture cryopaste.
<live is better than any processed product IMO on one glaring point -
particle size. Most always smaller with live (no clotting or coagulating
in time)>
The green water probably contains lots of things-
ciliates, bacteria- and it does seem (Bob Stark) that there is already
plenty of bacteria in our tanks. The reactor does seem to pull out
nutrients well- discarding the stuff seems to be an effective microalgae
scrubber. I think we know a lot about many of the filter feeders- and
the ones of most interest to me, the "Dendros", seem to only take SOME
of their nutrition from phyto.
<true... some take none
at all... bacteria, floc, other nanoplankton>
So, the
questions-
1) Do you know anyone who has long term success with a
phyto reactor like mine? Any suggested improvements based on this
experience (stirring/air, UV, getting rid of it and using cryopaste)?
<phyto culture is a science... many people have refined techniques to
learn from. Have you chatted with the folks at Florida Aqua farms?
Pioneers and suppliers>
2) Any news about successful experience
with Dendros from somebody knowledgeable?
<none I am aware of
recently... rather that not all aposymbiotic Nephtheids in the trade are
Dendros... which is a good thing. Seek Scleros instead when you can find
them>
3) I am going to visit GARF, inland seafarm, and Tropicorium
in February for my 50th birthday. Do you know of any really
professional greenhouse outfits I might also need to visit?
<I like
Tropicorium and Inland Aquatics very much. medium sized scale but
quality personnel. Most of the outfits farming reef inverts in the US
are cottage industry sized. But you may want to see about a visit to ORA
in Florida some time... after they recover from hurricane damage>
Thanks so much for your advice Charles Matthews MD
<best of luck,
Anthony> Tang food/algae? 2/11/05
I have recently purchased
a Sailfin tang as soon as he was in his new home he proceed to eat a
green plant that had came on the live rock which I think is Caulerpa.
Could I grow this in a small tank 12 by 10 by 10, using the old water
from weekly water changes and lighting with a full range Fluorescent
light,
<it could... but there are much easier and less noxious algae
to grow. Gracilaria would be ideal tang food... sold as "tang heaven"
from IPSF.com>
would I need a heater or a filter maybe a little live
rock?
<yes... bright light too. At least 5 watts per gallon>
I
would like to do this as the Sailfin seemed to like it but there's not
that much of it and I thought it would be a nice supplement to its diet,
<a nice idea, but not necessary. Do look for "Nori" seaweed at an Asian
grocery store or sushi supplier>
assuming it's ok for it to eat it.
If it's not is there any thing else I could grow with a similar method
that would be ok?
<it is somewhat to very toxic over time (Caulerpa)
in large portions. Do avoid IMO>
Thanks, Andy
<best regards,
Anthony> Pyrocystis fusiformis - 12/11/05
Greetings
from snowy Pittsburgh!
<<Hello from a bit more temperate SC!>>
I
just wanted to thank you all for your efforts.
<<Very welcome>>
I'm new to the aquarist lifestyle and I'm happy to report that my 90gal
FOWLR has been quite successful in the past 4 mos. largely due to the
wealth of information you guys
<<and gals>>
provide (the site
frequently keeps me up till the wee hours of the am).
<<Hee!>>
I
have one quick question (for now): I came upon an interesting suggestion
in the Phyto FAQs, where a man suggested growing Pyrocystis fusiformis
in a FOWLR tank. I was wondering if there has been any update on his
activities or if you have encountered any new information regarding its
toxicity to fish, LR or even SPS/LPS corals (before I try my own
culture/controlled experiment).
<<If you didn't find any on the
site, then likely no new info/updates.>>
The web info I usually find
references the plankton as a "neato" school experiment.
<<Let me
suggest you try contacting some of the commercial fish/seahorse breeders
('Ocean Rider' comes to mind). These folks culture their own
phytoplankton from necessity, and if willing to share info, may be able
to help.>>
Many thanks, I'll be writing again soon.
Regards
Brandon
<<Regards, EricR>> Gracilaria parvispora culture
- 02/16/2006
Hi,
<Hello>
I would like to start growing
Ogo as a food source for a few yellow tangs. My problem is it is
expensive and a screw up would be costly.
So I would
like to run my plan by you before I start. I will put the Ogo in a 10
gallon tank, lighting will be 96 watts from power compact bulbs, and
water motion will be provided by power heads pumping a total of 560
gallons per hour (more if needed).
<Not needed... circulation can be
much less vigorous>
Nutrients will be provided from water from the
main tank, and possibly from frozen food juice added once a week. I
write this because after reading from your archives I am kind of
discouraged from others not so successful attempts. Any tips or
suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Aron
<? Not
difficult to culture... I would boost (through new water additions) the
alkalinity and biomineral content... 12 dKH, 450 or so Calcium, about
three times whatever calcium is in Magnesium concentration... and keep
out other algal species... Bob Fenner> Ogo and quarantine
03/07/06
Hi,
<Aloha>
I ordered some Ogo from Indigo
<Hee! Will send to Gerald, Heslinga... Indo->
Pacific Sea Farms
about a week ago. It is currently in a 15 gallon qt tank. It is under 96
watts of PC light,
and it is being tumbled around by a powerhead
which might be too powerful. Salinity is 1.025, temp is 80 degrees, PH
8.3, no ammonia nitrite or nitrate, calcium 400, and the water is RO/DI.
My problem is I don't know if it is doing all that well. The plants
<Algae>
are still red, but the tips might be turning slightly white.
<Not atypical>
Is this from two much light?
<Likely "just"
shipping, stress>
I would hate to lose the Ogo before I had a chance
to use it, so is it safe to add some to the tank for food for my tangs,
<Yes>
or should I wait the two week quarantine period.
<Are you
concerned re Aiptasia, or? I would search through it, feed a bit off,
move some to other quarters for culture (if you have them)...>
I
contacted IPSF and they said quarantine was not necessary, but I am
still a little leery about putting it in the tank. So do you think this
okay, or should I wait?
Thank you,
Aron
<I wouldn't likely
wait. Bob Fenner, who will eating Gracilaria in po'kes on the Big Island
in another day or so>
Harvesting Chaetomorpha 03/07/06
Hello Crew,
Once again I would like to thank you for the fantastic site. Your
hard work is greatly appreciated and I advertise you to all at the
LFS and friends in the hobby. Most think with good reason I am a
WetWebMedia junkie.
<I look forward to your joining us in
responding>
It has been suggested that several of us at work
join A.A. ( Aquarist Anonymous). I am always referring them to do
queries on your site when they ask a question of me. You previously
helped me out with plumbing my upstream 30 gallon acrylic
sump/refugium. The refugium has been up and running for about one
month and all is going well. I had a very mild case of BGA after the
first week it was running but increased the flow and vacuuming out
the BGA reduced it to nothing quickly (thanks to reading your
suggestions to others.)
<Very good>
Many copepods,
amphipods, and worms thriving and are gravity fed to the main 55
gallon display tank. My original double softball size Chaetomorpha
macroalgae has grown into what is now basketball size or better.
<Keep trimming, feeding, trading...>
The ammonia, nitrite and
nitrate levels are now undetectable with my Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
Saltwater Master liquid test kit. Ph is holding steady as a rock at
8.4 with the reverse lighting cycle.
<Simple, eh?>
I
continue to do 5 gallon water changes twice a week and Aqua C Remora
attached to the refugium is still producing skimmate but I might add
not as much since the refugium stabilized. Now for my question about
harvesting the Chaeto. I looked thru the many pages of refugium and
macroalgae area questions and answers but did not see a definitive
description of pulling out the Chaeto properly. I know I need to do
this on a regular basis. I am unsure what is and when is the proper
time and procedure for doing this? Do I just grab a handful and pull
it out?
<Yep>
I have attached a couple of pictures of the
refugium and Chaeto. The dimensions on the refugium area of where
the Chaeto is are 15" x 12" x 17" (height x width x length). Do I
need to start harvesting now or wait until it has covered the entire
refugium area?
<I wouldn't wait... keep pulling...>
Thanks
you so much for your educating this want to be aquarist.
Ernie
from Kansas
<Weekly is a good interval, while you're "fooling
with" other maintenance. Cheers, Bob Fenner> |  |
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