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FAQs on Marine Velvet,
Amyloodiniumiasis, Diagnosis/Symptomology Related Articles: Marine Velvet,
Parasitic Disease, Copper
Use, Formalin,
Formaldehyde Use,
Related FAQs: Marine Velvet 1, Marine Velvet 2,
Marine
Velvet 3, Marine Velvet 4, & FAQs on
Amyloodinium/Velvet: Prevention,
Cures That Don't Work,
Cures That Do
Work, Products/Manufacturers... &
Marine Parasitic Disease, Parasitic
Marine Tanks, Parasitic Reef Tanks, Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich,
Biological Cleaners, Treating
Parasitic Disease, Using Hyposalinity to
Treat Parasitic Disease,
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Can you see them? Nope. Ragged fins? Mmm, not really
indicative? Rapid breathing? Could be a number of other things... even
non-pathogenic... Dashing, scratching, zooming about? Might be a host of
things as well... Microscope, sampling, staining: definitive |
Hippo tang with Velvet?
- 7/2/08
Hey guys,
http://www.zaita.com/Images/Hippo01.jpg
http://www.zaita.com/Images/Hippo02.jpg
<I see>
I noticed these marks on my Hippo today, she was fine yesterday. She
seems to have a scratch in front of them going up her body as well. I
thought maybe velvet, but I am thinking it's something more?
<Mmm, something different. Twere this Amyloodiniumiasis, all your fishes
would be dead>
Maybe she got stuck in a rock and had to wiggle free? It is only on 1
side of her body too.
<A possibility, but there is a much greater likelihood that this area is
resultant from a "brush" with the Cnidarian life in your system...
perhaps the Euphyllia just in view>
Tank is 125g, 12months old. She was first fish introduced and is now
about 15cm in length. No new additions for the last 12 weeks. She is
housed with 2 Scopas tangs who she bosses around, a few smaller fish and
a CBB whom she ignores. She rules the tank quite happily. Her appetite,
attitude and breathing all appear to be normal. She is fed Nori,
enriched Spirulina and enriched frozen brine. She has previously had
white-spot but it was only ever 1 or 2 spots that left after a week.
Apart from that she has been a healthy blue tang. She was looking
perfectly normal yesterday too.
Thanks heaps guys, really love the site and it's an invaluable resource.
Regards,
Scott.
<Thank you for your kind words Scott. I would "do" nothing extraordinary
here. Very likely this area will heal w/in a few weeks, the fish all the
smarter for paying closer attention to the "decor". Bob Fenner>
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Re: Hippo tang with Velvet? -
07/02/08
Thanks Bob,
I kept a close eye on her that night and made an amusing observation.
The scratch running her the side of her body was also lined with
bristles, very hard to see without a good light and the fish moving
slowly. I am guessing she was jabbed by a fireworm (Eurythoe complanata)
and then as you have suggested, must've run into a coral.
<Ahh! Ouch!!!>
She seems to have healed up for the most part already, so hopefully she
will be a bit wiser in which rocks she tries to play dead against :P
Thanks,
Scott.
<Thank you for your further input Scott. BobF>
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Oodinium Outbreak 3/22/07
Hello,
Great website, it has been extremely helpful over the last couple of years. I
also recently got a copy of CMA and it is wonderful as well.
<Lots of good help there, here>
I have a bad situation and would like some advice. A maintenance customer of
mine has a 210 FOWLR that is in my opinion over stocked and now seems to be
consumed with an Oodinium infection (white flaky dandruff like substance all
over most of the fish with some cloudy eyes as well).
<Yikes... no fun. I was in the service trade for about 19 years...>
All fish were quarantined before being put into the tank until last week when
the customer called me and said that he was taking home a new Blue Spotted
Stingray (which I had told him was a poor choice).
<Exceedingly>
Since all of the fish had been doing well up till then I would assume that this
is where the infection came from.
<Mmm, this or most anything wet... including marine foods...>
None of the fish have died yet and they are all still eating well.
<Mmm, might be Cryptocaryon then instead... Likely Amyloodinium would have wiped
out all otherwise by now>
But there are a lot of expensive fish that need some help. Would you suggest
taking out the live rock and treating with copper or formalin, hyposalinity,
just pray? Also would a
stingray, zebra eel, or map puffer be ok with copper or any medication?
<Mmm... I would treat all as proscribed on WWM... including for these
fish/groups... Prayer "helps" only those who "do and believe in it"... Not the
physical world>
Any help would be greatly appreciated. It has been a very depressing evening, I
feel very sorry for the fish that are suffering.
Thanks for your time,
Jeremy <><
<Read on my friend, read on:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Too much to state here. Bob Fenner> |
Re: Oodinium Outbreak 3/23/07
Hello again,
Thanks for your quick response. I have been reading over the FAQ's and
am still very confused as to what is wrong with the fish. As you stated
if it was Oodinium the fish would likely be dead now, or at least have
stopped eating. But it still doesn't look like ich to me (or at least
what I think ich looks like), of course I could very possibly be wrong
about this.
<There are actually several possibilities here... some other protozoans,
some non-pathogenic...>
I have attached a few pics of the Boxfish (Ostracion Meleagris) it looks
worse than any of the other and is actually in a different tank now
because of that. Again it is a very flaky looking white substance
covering the entire body.
<This appearance is due to the reaction of the host...>
The pics are not real good but maybe they will help. Thanks for your
time.
Jeremy <><
<Macroscopically this appears to be Crypt to me... if you intend to be
successful in the trade, I would get, learn to/use an inexpensive
microscope... and good reference works... For many fish pathologies...
my fave (w/in reaching distance) is Edward Noga, "Fish Disease,
Diagnosis & Treatment"... Expensive, but worthwhile. Bob Fenner> |
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Amyloodinium
problems
I discovered I had Amyloodinium in my tank on December 13th. I was
able to confirm this by looking at some scrapings from gills, scales and fins of
two fish that died recently (one frozen and one not). I checked these
under my microscope and verified it with microscope photos I found online. Other
symptoms included:
- labored breathing
- cloudy eyes
- loss of colour
- tiny powdery spots
- refusing food
- blood streaks and/or splotches
Some unusual behavior I observed:
- listlessness, hovering weakly in one spot, usually near the surface
- flashing, flicking, scratching on the substrate
- hovering in the direct flow of one of the pumps
I read everything on Wetwebmedia, and several other sites, about Amyloodinium
and decided I needed to act quickly. I lost 5 fish in a very short
time but still have 7 left. Dead are:
- 5" Pakistani butterfly (I suspect this is the fish that brought it to my
tank)
- 3" Red Sea Chevron butterfly
- 3" Red Sea Raccoon butterfly
- 7" Male Squarespot Anthias
- 1" Emperor Angel *sob*
On December 15th I removed the 7 remaining fish from the 300g tank and put them
in a 75g hospital tank with the following:
- bare bottom, no rock or sand
- plastic and resin hiding places
- huge Eheim canister filter filled with porcelain and ceramic biomedia (rings,
balls, etc. - running since last August)
- air curtain with large air pump
- Maxijet 1200 powerhead
- temp 84F (I read that this would speed up the lifecycle of the parasite)
- SG 1.018 (I read that this would be better for the fish, I normally keep
my tanks at 1.026)
- pH 8.0 (I have had to add Kalkwasser once a day to keep it up. Does
Cupramine lower pH?)
- lab grade filtered natural seawater (I use nothing but in all my tanks with
RO/DI for top off)
All fish had a freshwater dip on their way to the hospital tank. Dip
time depended on how each fish was tolerating it, minimum of 4 minutes, maximum
of 8 minutes. I am treating the hospital tank with Cupramine (copper)
and keeping it at a level of 0.5 and testing twice a day to be sure it stays
there.
<That is kind of high if the level is PPM.>
These are the fish in the hospital tank and their condition:
6" Copperband butterfly - Excellent, I've had this fish for years, raised
it from a 1" baby, she didn't show any symptoms at any point.
5" Golden butterfly - So this guy did have some powder on him, some
blood streaks and rapid breathing. He's much better now and is eating
well. The freshwater dip really seemed to help him. There
are still some very faint red streaks but his breathing is good and I don't see
any powder spots. He wasn't eating much before the dip but his
appetite is back to normal now.
3" Longnose butterfly - Excellent. I haven't had this fish long
but he didn't show any symptoms.
2" cleaner wrasse - Very good now but was going downhill before the dip. He
is eating but hides a lot more than he used to, could just be the new
surroundings though. Is eating well but not quite as much as he used
to in the large tank, he was a real pig.
2" cherub angel - Good now but has either major slime coat damage or could
be scale damage. Odd sheen to body overall but not really the powder
spots, just not quite right. No colour loss. Is eating
well.
2" royal Gramma - Seems to be coming around, I thought I was going to lose
this one. Has some clouding in the eyes still and one looks a bit
protruded but the fish is eating and the eyes seem to be improving. Is
eating small
amounts.
2" Lubbock's fairy wrasse - This fish wasn't showing symptoms before the dip
but really didn't tolerate it very well and is quite stressed in the new tank. Hiding
almost constantly but today she's coming out for short periods and has started
eating again. I don't see any Oodinium symptoms though.
I did a 30g water change on the 75g hospital tank yesterday (3rd day) siphoning
the bottom well while doing it to hopefully get as many of the parasites in the
tomont stage as possible and plan to continue to do this while they are in the
tank.
QUESTIONS - Is there anything you would recommend I do in addition to this or
perhaps instead of what I am doing? I really want to give my fish the
best possible chance of surviving this parasite without doing too much damage
with the copper. <Do not freshwater dip the wrasses again. They
are very sensitive to freshwater dips. Make sure you are not over
dosing with copper. That too can be a problem.>
I'm also concerned about getting all the parasites out of the big 300g tank. I
am not treating it with anything but I have the temperature up to 84F and I'm
hoping that if I leave the tank fallow long enough with the UV sterilizer that I
can starve out the parasite. <That will take 6 to 8 weeks.>
300g Equipment:
300g (8'x2'x2.5') Tenecor Acrylic tank
6' LifeReef Protein Skimmer
40W Rainbow LifeGuard UV Sterilizer
350 Magnum canister filter with micron cartridge only (runs the UV Sterilizer)
VHO Lighting
2 Tunze Stream pumps (model 6100, pushes 3100 gph each)
Livestock:
The system was setup mainly for butterflyfish. It's not what I would
consider a reef tank but I do have a number of inverts, this is what's in the
tank now:
300lbs Fiji liverock
300lbs CaribSea sugar fine sand (approx. 3" deep)
4" blue reef lobster
2 cleaner shrimp
1 coral banded shrimp
40 Baja cerith snails
20 Nassarius snails
5 large turbo snails
5 small margarita snails
2 emerald crabs
2 strawberry conchs
1 long Spined Diadema urchin
1 pincushion urchin
assorted mushrooms & Ricordea
green tree coral
button polyps and Zoanthids
anthelia
yellow polyps
QUESTIONS - Is there anything else I should be doing?<No, I think you are
O.K.> Or something I shouldn't be doing? Are water
changes beneficial at this point?<As long as the water warrants a water
change.> How long would you recommend I leave this tank fishless
to be sure all the Oodinium parasites are gone?<6-8 weeks.> I
REALLY don't want to do this again.
Here's the kicker. I have a 20g quarantine tank that has been set up
for over 2 years. I didn't use it because I have a baby volitans
lionfish in there while I'm trying to teach him to eat frozen foods. Unfortunately
this lionfish may prove to be even more stubborn than myself and it's taking
forever. The 75g that I'm using as a hospital tank was meant to be
his permanent home. This has been a very hard lesson - I can assure
you I will not be skipping the quarantine procedure EVER again. Any suggestions
would be greatly appreciated. Susan
<Susan, you are doing everything correct and you know your mistakes. You
will be fine and hopefully your fish will come around. Put the live
food for your lion fish on a feeding stick. The fish will get used to
the stick and recognize that the stick means food. Then change the
food on the stick to frozen food or krill. This will take some time
but it has worked for me every time. good luck. MikeB>
Amyloodinium - need advice
Thanks Mike, I really appreciate your taking the time to
reply. At a time like this I want to be sure I'm doing all I can for
my fishy friends. The copper I'm using is Cupramine by SeaChem. 0.5
mg/L is the recommended dosage: http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Cupramine.html
Thanks so much for the advice for weaning the lionfish onto frozen
food. That's about the only thing I haven't tried! Now I
just need to figure out how to get a live ghost shrimp onto a feeding stick
:) The lionfish is a baby volitans, about 3" long. Susan
<Susan, I am glad to help and the copper dosage is right now that we have the
units. As far as feeding the baby lion I would take this
route. Buy some rigid airline tubing (the kind for an undergravel
filter) and wedge a paperclip inside it to make it like a spear. I
would then try and use rosy minnow or the ghost shrimp. It won't be
easy at first but it will work. The one thing you want to absolutely
do is to make sure the paperclip is strongly secured (so the fish doesn't pull
it out or eat it). Good Luck. MikeB.> Marine velvet
Bob, I have discovered that I definitely have marine velvet in my system. This is a mature system with a static population of soft and hard corals, live
rock, inverts and fish. The only source I can think of was a pre-used (still damp powerhead from another aquarist's tank?) as there have been no other
additions.
<Bummer>
Anyhow, I love my fish/tank dearly but I have a family crisis at the moment with my mother in the end stages of cancer, and this tank is in her bedroom in
our home. I cannot then really break it down/cause too much disruption. Can I achieve a long-term result for my fish by
removing all fish to quarantine tank and treat there with freshwater dips and medication
leave live rock in place in main tank and raise temperature and lower salinity?
What can I do with my shrimps/snails? There appears to be velvet on my blood
shrimp.
<What? No... this is something else>
I think if I have understood correctly, that salinity/treatments could harm them.
<Yes>
Would this combined approach avoid me having to break down the system. I am truly struggling at the moment. I can leave main tank fallow for as long as
it takes. Appreciate your time and efforts. If I have missed what you have previously explained on-site, please excuse me as I am all sixes and sevens at
present. Jackie
<Mmm, I would NOT panic... take your time here... please explain to me exactly what leads you to believe your first sentence above... Symptoms? Appearances? Do NOT add anything to the water, do NOT change the environment at this point. Only fishes are affected by Amyloodinium, NOT invertebrates. Bob Fenner>
Re: marine velvet
Forgot to say...all fish still eating, food soaked in garlic, have attached U.V to tank.
Jackie
<Good moves... the UV will help. Bob Fenner>
Re: marine velvet
Hi
I appreciate what you are doing to try and help my fish! They have the following
symptoms:
* they have white specs, miniscule and across their bodies, looks like they've been dusted with flour
* they rub against rockwork/hard corals
* spasm every so often
* are breathing rapidly, my emperor angel is going a washed out colour
* their eyes are cloudy
* shrimps have some lesser speckling on the hump of their backs
<Mmm, does sound like Velvet... possibly Cryptocaryon/ich... the shrimp affliction is something else... possibly "just coloring">
My local fish shop visited and suggested it was velvet? The only problem we
have had in the tank is a Goniopora (2 years old) had self-destructed and mucus
broke off in tank as we removed it.
<Yikes>
Water parameters stable (tested by us and LFS using reputable test kits. Only one a bit out is calcium at 400.
We have recently put in a new calc reactor. Run a skimmer constantly and have a large sump with hydrocarbonate. Change
water fortnightly (10%) with salted ro water and top up with ro water. Usual salinity 0.25.
We had to remove an algae blenny who was being very aggressive to the clowns but no other problems before this. We feed frozen and
Nori at least twice a
day. Jackie
<Does sound like you're doing most all right... w/ the important exception of quarantine procedures.... You will need another system... to isolate fishes, non-fish livestock... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/amylloodiniumart.htm
and the linked files (in blue, above). Bob Fenner>
Re: marine velvet
Thanks Bob, for your patience ( I have flapped a bit!!!!!)
<Happens>
I am now in process of trapping/dipping each fish in freshwater dip, putting them in a quarantine tank.
Last questions: should I treat them with anything? I have asked chemist to get
Meth blue
ASAP. I was given Hex-a-Mit (Metronidazole) antibiotics but didn't want to be
hasty.
<Mmm, I would NOT use Metronidazole/Flagyl to treat Velvet... Copper compounds... better with formalin... as detailed on WWM>
Can I put shrimps in with fish (wouldn't have meds in quarantine tank)? Should I remove snails?
<Invertebrates need to be kept separate from the fish, treatment system>
As I cannot break down tank, in relation to Mum's condition, how long could
I leave main tank fallow to cure this problem from the system?
<At least a month>
Thanks for this. I have learned a valuable lesson re: not just quarantining livestock but the importance of not putting hardware such as powerheads in
without letting them stand fallow.
Many Thanks, Jackie
<Steady on my friend. Bob Fenner>
Crushing Velvet...(Amyloodinium)
Dear Crew of WWM,
<Scott F. at the helm tonight, Captain>
Thanks for the invaluable advice from the individual FAQs! They're
fantastic!
<We have as much fun bringing this to you as I hope you have reading it!>
Here's a question regarding fish disease. I flipped through the
disease section of WWM and several other books and couldn't find any pictures
like the one I attached. The Emperor belongs to my friend. He claims
that in the morning, his Emperor had these whitish blotches and by evening, it
was lying on its side. He claims that the fish was desperately gasping till its
death.
<Well, this sounds (and looks, from your picture) like the symptoms of Marine
Velvet (Amyloodinium). The gasping, blemished skin, and listlessness are classic
symptoms. The blotched appearance of the fish's skin is essentially the spots on
this fish where the tissue has been liquefied by the parasites...You don't
always see the "dusting" of the parasites themselves (They are really
too small to see individually). Most of the time, you only see the collateral
damage...>
I am particularly concerned, as I have had a French Angel, unquarantined (my
bad, my bad) that had similar symptoms - pale skin (as though the skin was
peeling off) and gasping. The French died and its tank mates -
Multicolour angel, flame hawk etc... died within the next 2 days of the same
symptoms.
<Yep...that sounds a lot like Amyloodinium...It presents all of the symptoms
that you described, and kills with horrifying rapidity if left unchecked...A
nasty disease...>
Question: What is what is this strange disease that acts so quickly and fatally? I
thought it was velvet initially, but I did not see discrete nodules on the fish,
neither did it seem like a light dusting... it was just blotches of whiteness
all over the fish. Fins were slightly tattered at the edges
too.
<Again- it sounds like Amyloodinium to me...Just think "collateral
damage"...>
Is there any cure for this disease? As a desperate attempt, I advised
that my friend isolate the fish and give it a pH adjusted FW dip as there was no
time to get medications of any sort. It didn't help apparently...
Thank you very much!
<Well, the FW dip may provide some relief, but once the disease advances, and
the damage really starts to become evident, you need to get aggressive...Copper
sulphate is really the best way to treat this disease, IMO. And- the display
tank just HAS to be left fallow for a month or so...This disease is SO
contagious, and so virulent, that you need to follow through on this
technique...Action must be taken immediately upon diagnosing the illness...Hours
can literally mean the difference between life and death...No garlic, no
hyposalinity (at least, not as a "stand alone" remedy)...this is one
disease where I am confident in the use of copper sulphate as the way to go. I'd
always keep a supply on hand, along with a good copper test kit...Best of luck
to you in your counter-attack efforts...Regards, Scott F>
Attacking Amyloodinium!
I wanted to let you know that today I noticed something different -
erosion of his gills. I did some more searching around and found that he might
be suffering from Oodinium. The description seemed to fit - loss of appetite,
uncoordinated movements, darting movements, respiratory distress as the gills
are targeted.
<Sounds like it...>
I inspected him again at night with a flashlight (as recommended to be the best
viewing time of these parasites), and did not see any white spots. Although, I
suppose it's a good thing considering this is a more progressed stage of the
disease.
<Usually, you'll see lots of mucous, and obvious tissue damage caused by the
parasites as they liquefy the infected fish's tissues...Seeing the actual
parasites themselves is unlikely...You're looking for the "collateral
damage">
I have CopperSafe, but am leery of using it after learning of the side effects.
I thought I would use Metronidazole or quinine hydrochloride. What about Revive?
Additionally, should I use Maracyn-two? Please advise. Thank you so
much!
<Frankly, I'd use the CopperSafe. If you follow the directions to the letter
(as you should with any medication), and test for copper concentration, you
should enjoy success. Metronidazole may also work...but I favor
copper. The Maracyn is an antibiotic, and really should only be used
if you experience a secondary infection after defeating the Amyloodinium. Alas,
be sure to run the main system fallow for a month or so, just as you would for
Cryptocaryon...This is a much more virulent and contagious disease than
Cryptocaryon, but it can be effectively treated if you act quickly...Good luck!
Regards, Scott F>
Crushing Velvet!
Hi Guys
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
Writing to you from South Africa
<Glad to hear from you!>
This is the first time that I am actually writing to you, I have been visiting
the website everyday and I have gained a world of knowledge from the questions
and answers.
<Glad to hear that you enjoy the site! It's a lot of fun for all of us!>
I am not new to the hobby and have been keeping marine's (fish & inverts)
for 10 years, Here is my problem. I have a 1000 Gallon Reef tank, this tank is
my pride and joy and I almost love it as much as I love my wife (I'm lying-
"maybe a bit more")
<Hope she doesn't read that! LOL>
It contains various inverts, too many to mention and various fish species. All
has been going well, water parameters excellent "I have a filter system
that friend at Sea World - South Africa designed and that most aquarist only
dream of, but this morning I noticed that some of the clown fish and angels have
what looks to me like marine velvet , I have no idea what to do as their is no
way in hell that I would be able to catch these fish in the reef, I have no idea
what caused the sudden illness. These are the symptoms please confirm if you
agree with me on the type of disease as well as what possibilities there are in
curing them without having to rip apart a reef that has been like this for a
good couple of years: Rapid gill movement
<Yep>
Cloudy eyes
<Possibly>
Body looks slimy
<Yep>
Eyes bulging
<Could be a secondary infection>
Scratching on rock and coral sand
<Yep>
I would really appreciate your help , I have never had to deal with sick fish in
this reef before, I did it the good old way Let mother nature take its coarse
and up to now I have been really successful and have not lost a lot of fish, I
hate medication but I have had these guys for a few years and they are like part
of the family I do not want to loose them "HELP"
<Okay- here is my thinking: It really does sound a lot like Amyloodinium
("Velvet"), which is an incredibly contagious and lethal disease...It
can and will kill rapidly if left unchecked. Regrettably, I cannot, in all
honesty, recommend a course of action that does not involve removing all of the
fish to a separate tank for treatment. Even the so-called "reef safe"
medications are dangerous and unreliable here...The best course of action (in
terms of success, IMO) is to remove all fishes to a separate aquarium for
treatment with a legitimate over-the-counter medication. Meanwhile, the main
tank would run fallow, without fishes, for a month or so. This disease is much
more difficult to attack than ich, and it is very tough to eradicate without
letting the system run without host fishes...As much as it pains me to recommend
tearing apart the tank to get to the fishes, I just don't see another way that
is more reliable. Medicating the tank would be an absolute mistake, IMO...I know
this sucks, but I really believe it to be the way to go here...>
P.S. I would recommend your site to anybody interested the hobby, They need not
look further for good advice. Regards, Robert
<Well, Robert. I hope that things take a turn for the better. This is an
agonizing problem...You can prevail, but it won't be fun for a while... Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
More Velvet Blues
>Hey Bob,
>>Wrong Bob, you've got Marina tonight.
>Hope the holidays were parasite free for you.
>>Indeed.
>I myself on the other hand believe I have some nasty parasites in my tank.
>>Not good.
>Clowns and Damsels appear to be coated with little spots that look like
sugar.
-rapid breathing
-scratching
-hanging out near top of tank
>>You sure make it sound like velvet - you'll need to act FAST.
>I have my 20 QT tank running a cycle ( I cycled with live sand, bacteria,
and the old filter pads from main tank)
>>Cycling is a moot point when medicating, especially for something such a
velvet. Handle nitrogenous wastes by water changes.
>-Ammonia is .5 ppm and nitrates are 15ppm (On way down. Was
at 1 for ammonia and 20 ppm for
nitrates). I am waiting for the levels to go down before I
quarantine. Do not want to take the fish from parasite tank to
ammonia tank.
>>You wait they die. The bacteria are going to die during
medicating anyway. Search our site on "velvet" for
treatment options - they would include hyposalinity and freshwater dipping,
copper and/or formalin treatments.
>Anything to speed up this process???
>>Treat your fish ASAP!
>Or in theory could I just do a water change from main tank to QT
tank.
>>No. You're re-infecting the q/t with the velvet
parasites. This creature is VIRULENT, and not at all easy to
eradicate.
>I think this would defeat the process of a QT tank though in this case
considering
the disease is in the main tank.
>>You think correctly.
>My plan for you to comment on (Once QT tank is ready)
-Remove all fish from main tank
>>Check..
-Freshwater bathe fish
>>Check..
-Add fish to QT tank
>>Check..
-Add copper treatment to QT tank (SeaCure)
>>Cupramine is my choice, otherwise, check..
-Continue to perform routine maintenance (water changes) on both tanks
>>You left out the hyposalinity for the treatment
tank. Otherwise, check..
-After 60 Days return bathe fish (freshwater) and return to main tank.
>>Check.
Questions: Background
- In main 55 gallon tank I will have
-Live Rock
-Cleaner, Blood, Coral Shrimp
>>If coral banded, do watch these for aggression towards the Lysmata spp.
-Emerald Crabs
-Sifter Starfish
-Arrow Crab
-Snails
-Colony Polyp, mushroom coral, yellow polyp (Fiji Coral)
>>You sure you're comfy with an arrow AND an emerald? Search on
Mithrax/emerald crabs as well as arrows to be sure you want these in a reef
system. Both known troublemakers.
1. From what I read I can increase temp to say 80 degrees to speed up
life cycle of parasites. Is this bad for main tank inhabitants?
>>They should be fine. Don't use hypo in any system with the
inverts. (Hypo for the fish would be 1.010 - 1.007.)
2. Do I apply copper just once to QT tank?
>>Follow the manufacturer's directions and test to ensure maintenance of
proper levels. You WILL need to correct dosage post water
change! The easiest way to do this for some folks is to add copper to
the make up water, test and match levels.
>My assumption is my water changes to QT tank will dilute copper treatment
>>Yep.
>3. Should I add some Amquel to QT tank to help control
levels?
>>I wouldn't. I strongly advocate using water changes to
eliminate nitrogenous wastes.
>Thanks for your help. Hope this works. Or please stop me if I am
making big error in plan. Cheers -CPN
>>See above, and do search our site ASAP to work out your plan of attack,
it needs to be quick, my friend. Marina
Possible Velvet Problem
Bob, I think I may be having a problem and I think it is marine velvet. I
have a six line wrasse, a dragon wrasse, a blue angel, a tomato clown, and a
Foxface. All have been doing fine and all my parameters for water quality
are good. What I have been noticing though for a while is very small white
spots on my blue angel and tomato clown. When I first noticed this I thought
it might be ich but I thought the spots looked too small and they had
disappeared by the end of the day. This went on for some time. I would
notice the fish would have spots in the morning but they would be gone by
the time I came home from work in the afternoon. I initially thought that
the white spots in the morning might just be sand sticking to the fish when
they slept at night. They all lay on the bottom at night so this seemed to
make sense especially when the spots were gone by the afternoon. It has been
about a month now though and I have noticed that my blue angel has started
scratching himself against the rocks and seems to be breathing a little
faster. He occasionally has fits where he seems to spaz out as if something
is really bothering him. My tomato clown has started to get cloudy eyes and
he skin is started to look gray as if his color has faded or been rubbed
off. At this point I figured something must really be wrong so I took the
blue angel and the tomato clown out of my main tank, gave them a freshwater
dip, and put them in my hospital tank. I have since treated them with
CopperSafe. They both seem to be doing fine although I occasionally see the
angel scratching himself. The clown doesn't seem to have that gray color
anymore. His eyes seem to have cleared up too. The rest of my fish in my
main tank seem to be unaffected. All the fish have been eating well and the
angel and the clown have always eaten well and still continue to have good
appetites. This morning however, both the angel and the clown had a lot of
white spots on the similar to the ones they used to get in my main tank
except there is no sand bottom in my hospital tank and they didn't have the
spots yesterday. Are the having some sort of outbreak of ich or something in
the hospital tank?
<Maybe... the report you render did/does sound like velvet/Amyloodiniumiasis
in the first... but you may well have both parasites here>
Are they having some reaction to the copper?
<Doubtful that this is the cause of the latter white spots...>
The copper
level is good. What else can I do to treat these fish and is there anything I
can do to make sure that my main tank is clear of all remaining parasites if
there are any.
<Environmental manipulation in the main and quarantine/hospital systems for
sure... and the use of purposeful non-obligate cleaners when the copper is no
longer in use... See the marine parasite pieces, FAQs and links posted on the
www.wetwebmedia.com site... there's a bunch there, so do take your time>
I am worried that the only reason my wrasses aren't
affected is because they may be more resistant or something.
<Yes, very astute>
My main tank is
125 gallons with plenty of live rock and a couple of mushrooms and polyps. I
would appreciate any help or advice you can give me on this. Thanks,
Gianluca
<Do read over the WWM site my friend. And don't despair. Your fishes
salvation is in your hands and you have the ability to reason this through and
cure your system. Bob Fenner>
Possible Oodinium
Hello again Robert,
Thank you for your last e-mail concerning lighting. I decided to get the
130 watt fixture for my 80 gallon tank and add it to the 70 watts I
already have. The lights should be here on Tuesday! Once I get it I am
going to add some macro algae from my smaller tank.
<Sounds like a plan>
Now I have another concern / problem. When I first set up my 80 gallon
tank, I had a bad case of Oodinium which killed most of my fish. I have
not had any problems with it for several months now (since March). Well,
yesterday I noticed some of the fish breathing kind of heavy, and one of
my Sharpnose puffers scratched a few times. I have not seen him scratch
since, and he is not breathing heavily, but the other Sharpnose puffer
does seem to be breathing heavy, and my gobies look like they are
breathing a little bit heavier than usual as well. Is there something
else other than Oodinium that would cause them to breath heavy? What
should I do?
<A few things... maybe "biological" as in infectious, parasitic... but maybe just dissolved gas related... do increase water movement if you can... perhaps add an airstone... execute a water change, removing some water from the surface (the little aerosol, oils from cooking, what have you inside homes/offices can play the devil here...>
The water parameters are great (ammo 0, nitrites 0, pH 8.1, nitrates
about 15, I don't have a phosphate or calcium test kit). The temperature
in the tank has been pretty high lately (84 or 85).
<Ah hah! A likely clue... elevated temperatures reduce gas solubility, and increase metabolic rates...>
The tankmates are
two Sharpnose puffers, 3 gobies (1 scissor tail, and 2 of the one that
have the yellow heads and blue cheeks and sift sand), 2 blue damsels, a
maroon clown, a yellow tang, a mono, a chocolate chip star fish, and one
huge turbo snail (that only comes out at night). There is 60 lbs of live
rock in the tank.
<Look to reducing temperature in the meanwhile... turn lights off, float a bag of ice... set up a fan to blow across the tank surface (careful here those gobies can/will jump out)... and add an airstone, pump...>
Thanks again for all of your help!
Jim Moss
<You're welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>
Re: Possible Oodinium
Robert,
Thanks for the advice on the heavy breathing. I followed your
suggestions and it took care of the problem.
<Very good news. Congratulations on your success. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Jim
Marine velvet?
Bob,
Sorry to keep pestering you, but a couple of months ago I wrote to you about
a problem I was having with a new reef tank: 75 gal with 100# of Fiji LR. I
had lost all of my fish: mandarin goby, 2 Firefish gobies, Kole eye tank,
bicolor blenny. At first I thought it was due to gas bubble disease, but
have ruled this out.
I now think it was caused by Amyloodinium - velvet. The symptoms were: light
white powdery dusting (not the 'salt grain' ich - I've seen that), with
occasional 'bursts and dashing' and rapid breathing by the afflicted fish.
Then, at the end, a sudden loss of body mass (in a day) with an almost fuzzy
white dust covering of the fish and lethargic behavior (sit at bottom
panting). The disease just 'appeared' two mo.s after initial tank set up (all
fish were fresh water dipped with methyl blue for 10 min, but alas, no
quarantine prior to being added to the main tank).
<Does sound like Velvet... good description>
Anyway, all my SPS, leather, LPS corals are doing fine, and so are my 2
bubble anemones. And I have one fish - an Australian clown - that was never
affected. Is it possible that this fish was immune, or have I misdiagnosed
my problem?
<It is possible the clown was unaffected. Again, I do agree with your diagnosis>
Could the anemone have given it immunity by eating the velvet
before it could attach/damage the clown's gills/scales?
<Hmm, yes... in a manner of speaking.>
The clown is
completely invisible 90% of the time due to the anemone's tentacles - it
truly buries itself, but does come out to feed and peek out occasionally.
Anyway, my tank has been fish-free for 2 mo.s (except for the unaffected
clown). Would it be wise to start adding fish (after FW dip with Methyl
blue, and 2 wk quarantine) if I also put a 25 watt CSL U2 UV sterilizer on
the main tank (for 2 wks prior to adding the new fish)?
<After this period of time, you will have gotten about as much benefit as you're going to get from not having other fish/hosts present... I would definitely quarantine or at least dip/bathe new fish livestock... and do assure me you have biological cleaners in place already.>
I'm not sure if the UV is enough to give the fish a chance, or if the 2
months of being fish-free (except for my 'unharmed' clown) would have allowed
the velvet to die out.
<Both definitely "help">
Should I remove the clown from the main tank, and let the tank stay fish-free
and on a UV for a couple of months before trying to add new fish?
<This would help as well...>
Any other
recommendations?
<The dips and cleaners: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnrfaqs.htm>
Thanks!
<Thank you for the follow-up... Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
Velvet pics
hello again bob,
I have a 5inch imperator and I'm suspecting that it has velvet.
its eyes are beginning to cloud a bit but now much, skin has white
smudges( not visible sideways, like painted on) on the other side...
its not scratching, is eating very well. it seems that its the only
fish affected in the aquarium.
my emperor killed my bicolor and keyhole. I never really see some
serious aggression when I'm viewing the tank but I think he's the
suspect.
what I really want to make sure is
1 how to diagnose velvet
<See our site re Marine Diseases (www.WetWebMedia.com)>
2 do you have pics?
<yes, there>
3 is it fatal?
<Can be, easily>
4 treatment
1,2,3 I seem to have not found these on your website... can you fill
me in on these? thanks bob
<Time to go back... perhaps use the "Google Search" tool there. Bob Fenner>
Re: Possible Oodinium
Hello again Robert,
<Howdy>
My fish have been having problems again lately. Several of them have
been scratching (a Toby, the tang, and one of the gobies) quite a bit
today. There are breathing a little bit heavy, and they look annoyed by
something (jerking their bodies, more irritated with each other). The
temperature is still running a little bit high, but it hasn't gone above
84 (that may still be too high though). I have powerheads circulating
the water, and an airstone. I did a 15 gallon water change (80 gallon
tank) making sure that the temperature and salinity matched. The water
quality is fine (although the nitrates have been around 20 lately).
My question: If I do have a parasitic infection, how do I know and what
can I do to treat / stop it (without destroying the live rock / fish's
health etc)?
<Best is to learn to do a simple skin/slime scrape test... with a microscope, a glass slide... a less than willing fish... No staining necessary... but maybe helpful. Are you using cleaner organisms? Bob Fenner>
Thank you again for all of your help in the past!
Jim Moss
Marine velvet
Hi Bob,
Great web site, it's very informative and ideal for a newbie to
keeping a reef aquarium.
<Ahh, great to hear, thank you.>
My tank has been up and running for 8 weeks and
all water parameters are spot on. I have been gradually introducing some
live rock, no fish so far but I have added some turbo snails, bumble bee
snails and a blue legged hermit. Recently I have begun to notice some white
spots on the aquarium glass, they seem to be oval shaped with a small tails,
they are less than 1mm in size. I'm just a little concerned that these are
velvet parasites as they seem to fit the description on your website
although I have no fish in the tank. What do you think? Could they be velvet
parasites and will they die off without a fish for a host or I'm I worrying
about something harmless.
<Nothing to worry about... very likely a transient form of worms, possibly crustaceans or mollusks... will pass with the aging, development of your system... not a problem>
Any advice much appreciated
Regards, Chris Young
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
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