
|
|
FAQs on Calcium Reactors, Operation & Maintenance
Related Articles: Calcium,
Understanding Calcium & Alkalinity,
Kalkwasser,
Calcium Reactors Related FAQs:
Calcium Reactors 1, Calcium Reactors 2, Calcium
Reactors 3, Calcium Reactors 4,
Calcium Reactors 5, & FAQs on Calcium Reactors:
Rationale/Use, Selection,
Installation, Media,
Measuring, Trouble-Shooting,
By Makes/Models, & Calcium and
Alkalinity, & FAQs on: The Science
of Calcium & Alkalinity, Importance,
Measure, Sources,
Use of Additives, Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Products, |
Opinions, and reality... will vary. When, where in doubt (run in
circles, scream and shout?), experiment with different media, flow
rates, CO2 injection feeding... Possibly supplementing in
addition... |
|
CA reactor and PH 8/25/09
Hello Crew,
<JD>
First, many thanks for maintaining such an excellent sight for reef
keepers!
<Welcome>
I have recently installed a CA reactor that is happily keeping the CA in
my tank around 450. The alkalinity is also staying in the 12 - 16 dKH
range.
I have noticed though, that the overall ph has been reduced to around
7.6.
<Dial the CO2 back... be happy with lower CA and KH>
Although this number is VERY stable with the reactor in place, I feel
like it should be up around 8.2. Am I worrying about nothing here?
<Worrying about something>
Should I look to raise the ph value in the tank?
<I would; yes>
If so, what is the best way to raise the ph without increasing
alkalinity?
<Less carbon dioxide feed likely... though some folks get involved in
feeding carbonate additionally to their reactor input>
Thanks in advance from a faithful reader,
Jd
<Please search/see WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Re: CA reactor and PH
8/25/09
Wow! What a privilege to speak directly to Mr. Fenner! :-) I just recently
got a copy of your second edition book, which I enjoy very much, and lives
on my coffee table. Many thanks for so many contributions.
<Welcome my friend>
I usually start to worry if CA goes < 400 or dKH < 10. Is this still the
proper thinking?
<Mmm; not really... as long as both are neither precipitously high or low,
there is not much to be lost>
I keep a few SPS, and some LPS in my tank. 2 250 MH lights over 130 gallon
half cylinder tank.
<Do see/read on WWM re biominerals, alkalinity... I'd let yours drop a bit,
check on Mg proportionality... not be overly concerned with these>
I will look to dial back the preferred PH of the out coming effluent from CA
reactor so that I use less CO2 to keep the PH lower in the reactor. Thanks
again for your advice.
-Jd
P.S. Attaching a pic of my tank to share with you. I couldn't have done this
without your crew, and hours of reading on WWM. :-)
<Ahh, very nice. Thank you for sharing, BobF>
|
 |
Re: Ca reactor 4/27/09
Scott V.,
<Matthew.>
I have patches of green hair algae that have been growing near the upper
top portions of my tank under my 400 watt 14k lights.
<How old are these bulbs? Over time these shift to the red end of the
spectrum and can fuel algae growth.>
I have taken tweezers to remove clumps of it every couple of weeks. Is
there an easier/natural way to rid the tank of this?
<Best to prevent its growth in the first place.>
Hermits don't seem to climb up that far to get it. Any recommendations?
<See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm and the linked files
above, all is there.>
It is becoming another chore to physically remove it. I have not added
hermits to my tank because I am dosing interceptor treatment to rid Acro
red bugs every few months, likewise with emerald crabs and green bubble
algae.
<Every few months? Are you consistently buying corals from a
contaminated system?>
Also, I plugged my co2 back in for my cal reactor, ca and KH are
maintaining..a good thing there.
<Yes!>
I'm just a bit concerned that my pH levels are not reaching 8.3-8.4
during noon hours like they were when the c02 was not actively on. With
co2 running it peaks at about 8.1 and dawn level is about 7.85, does
this excess concentration of co2 aid in the clumps or tufts of green
hair algae near the tops of my tank?
<CO2 does help out the plant growth and lower the ph as well. How about
aeration in your system? I know you have a skimmer and just added more
circulation, but what skimmer and does your circulation agitate the
surface much? You need more gas exchange.>
-Matthew
Calcium Reactors re: calcium reactor needs additives? 11/28/08
Hi.. Sorry I didn't ask this in my earlier email, but do you need to
use ANY additives when using a calcium reactor? If so which ones?
<Apart from using calcium media with a CO2 injection system in the
reactor, there are no other additives required.> Thanks <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Mohamed. <<Mmm... this question is a
bit open-ended... There are instances when using calcium reactors that
other supplementation is desirable... even more alkaline earth or
alkalinity (not to mention the plethora of other matter that folks find
themselves possibly adjusting). Even Daniel Knop reportedly adds
Kalkwasser to his large reef system, daily. The only way to assess such
"needs" is to test. BobF>>
Calcium, opinions re the use of reactors AND Kalk 8/22/08
Att: Anthony Calfo <Mmm, Antoine is no longer "here", nor associated
with such services as far as I know. You may be able to reach him at
ReadingTrees.com, but...> After reading your excellent article on
calcium and alkalinity, I have one clarifying question. If you have a
calcium reactor, do recommend additionally dosing with calcium hydroxide
"Kalkwasser"? Or do you suggest using one method exclusive of the other?
Charles <I happen to know his (and my) opinion/stance on this topic:
We both agree with this practice... have seen many professional
(including Daniel Knop) folks utilize both reactors and Kalk... Bob
Fenner>
Re: Calcium... suppl. reactor w/ Kalk... 8/22/08 Do
you feel, in general, that a calcium reactor is sufficient for a reef
system with stony corals, or would you get the system running, determine
if your calcium readings are acceptable, then take the step of adding
Kalkwasser only if necessary? Charles <The latter. B>
Calcium reactor, op. 6/5/08 Hello, Got a hopefully simple
question. I have a 180 g SPS tank and have always run a calcium reactor
(Deltec). When first set up their recommendation was to run the CO2 only
during lighted hours and not at night, so I placed a timer on the
solenoid to turn CO2 off when all lights went out. Over the last few
months I have noticed some of the growth tips on some colonies were
brittle and would easily break. After doing some research I am thinking
that by not running the CO2 24/7 I may be getting quite a ALK swing
which I have heard could cause what I am seeing. <Could be> I have
a refugium with macro and a light on 24/7. So my question is should I
run my reactor 24/7? <I would definitely do so... Diana/wife
distributed Knop Products (including their reactors) for five years in
N. America, and I handled her tech. calls... and have been a
promoter/stomper for Ca reactors for many more years.> Thanks Mike
Winston <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Calcium reactor fine-tuning - 09/24/07 Hi - it's been a few years
since I had a question for you, but here goes. <Hi Edward!> I
recently installed a Korallin C-1502 reactor on my 75g. I've read
everything in your archives and learned a great deal about calcium
reactors at this point. I should also mention that I'm only 3 days into
this process, dripping the effluent into a separate container and
testing constantly (2 times per day). I know it takes time to gain a
feel for it. I have the reactor teed off of the return from my Eheim
1080 (running constantly for 5 years, thank you very much Eheim). Per
the instructions, I have the 1st output (with a "non-dissolvable
excessive CO2 safety feature") dripping 60 drops per minute and the 2nd
output at 1 drop per minute (the instructions indicate to open this 2nd
output -- which has no safety feature -- if the input is supplied by a
pump rather than a siphon). I am bubbling beverage-grade CO2 at 15
bubbles per minute (more on this later). The effluent, which I am
testing twice a day, is at a pH of 7.2 (pinpoint monitor), 36 dKH, and
450 ppm Calcium (both Salifert). I'm guesstimating there is usually
about a half liter in the container each time. Which seems pretty good
from what I've read (although it's possible the actual effluent is a
lower pH and it is off-gassing over the course of the several hours it
sits in the open container between tests). Here's the rub: every time
I check on the reactor, the CO2 bubbling has stopped. The working
pressure on the regulator indicates about 30 PSI. Each time, I open
the main regulator valve a little more and tune it back in with the
needle valve to 15 bubbles per minute. Is this normal? Is the reactor
reaching a saturation point where the internal water/gas pressure
temporarily overcomes the pressure on the regulator (and will the
bubbling resume when this pressure lock is overcome due to effluent
outflow)? Or do I just need to keep upping the CO2 pressure until the
bubbling rate remains constant at all times? <from what I am
understanding is that you do not have the unit releasing the effluent
yet. If this is the case than the unit will build up pressure and stop
any further addition of CO2 gas. Once you begin to pump the effluent
into the tank's sump you can direct it towards the intake of the skimmer
so that you off gas any additional CO2.> I'm about ready to let the
effluent start dripping directly into my sump because the reactor seems
to be producing the sort of effluent I want. Or should I wait until the
bubbling stabilizes? Thoughts? As always, many thanks for the tremendous
amount of information on your website and the benefit of learning from
others' trial and error rather than merely my own. <The unit will
need several more "tweaks" to bubble counts and CO2 needle wheel
adjustments. This is known as "dialing in" the unit. This should be done
as the unit is discharging effluent into the system. Calcium levels
should be monitored in the tank and the effluent should be checked
regularly also. Make sure to check Alkalinity every time you check
calcium so no imbalance occurs between the two.> <Thanks, Rich aka
Mr. Firemouth> Ed Marshall Austin, TX
Re: Calcium reactor fine-tuning 9/27/07 Rich - thanks for
the quick reply. I am releasing the effluent, I'm just doing it in a
separate container so that I can be sure what's coming out is actually
good for my system (not too acidic but sufficiently high in dKH and
calcium) before I let it in. So in this sense, it's not "building
pressure" so to speak. In fact, I've been releasing the built-up
effluent in the container back into the system because it seems to meet
the general requirements for reactor effluent (and my aquarium is
currently maintaining around 12 dKH and 370 ppm calcium, although that
was the case before the reactor with regular additions of Kalkwasser and
buffer). But from your response I assume that I'm on the right track and
just need to "dial it in" better before I "let it go" and stop testing
multiple times per day? This is just new territory for me and I'm
probably overcautious when it comes to my animals. Ed <Hi Again
Ed, The DKH at 12 is the reason for the calcium being below 400ppm. A
DKH of 10 will have a higher Calcium level. I would suggest that you get
a Magnesium test kit and maintain that level at 1350ppm. This allows the
Alkalinity and Calcium to balance each other more efficiently. Here are
some more articles to help with this...
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm Also, Google Randy
Holmes-Farley. HTH, Rich>
Re: Calcium Reactor Tuning Thanks for the advice. <<I hope it
was helpful>> I am planning on turning off the reactor and bringing
up my calcium and ALK through a two-part supplement of Calcium and Alk,
then tuning the reactor to keep those levels where I want them. <<The
adjustment beforehand is good, but the tuning of the reactor is just
that… You can/should tune it for optimum efficiency…but whether or not
it will “keep those levels” is more a matter of whether or not is it
sized for your system and its load on the alkaline elements/bio-minerals
within. Use of these reactors is not an “exact” science, thus continued
monitoring, even occasional tweaking/supplementation is required>> I
do have a Kalkwasser reactor, but one other question I have is I am
using the dosage given to me with the reactor in the instructions, which
is about 2-3 cups of Kalkwasser…now is this a general assessment that is
up for adjustment based on my bio-load intake? <<It is…but is based
on usage/amount of evaporation (if used in conjunction with a top-off
system), and not on the demand of the livestock. The water in the
reactor will only dissolve so much Kalkwasser/saturate to a certain
point…how much Kalk-powder the reactor can use is based on how much
water is processed through it. The effluent from the Kalkwasser reactor
should have a “pH” of about 12. If this starts to fall off then it’s
time to add more Kalk>> Another question I have is after I acquire my
desired numbers through the two-part supplement should I tune the
Calcium Reactor or the Kalk reactor first to maintain the numbers?
<<See if you can “maintain” with just the Calcium reactor first as this
is the preferred method. If you find this is not enough, or you can’t
maintain pH, then add in the Kalkwasser reactor (slowly, and only “just
enough”)>> My Kalk reactor is connected inline through a top off
system so it is constantly being dosed whenever water evaporates from
the system. AJ <<Be chatting. EricR>>
Re: Calcium Reactor 12/20/07 Hey there, <Hello> So I have
come to the decision to ditch the calcium reactor and use an Aquadoser
quadro to dose calcium and alkalinity into the system each day. <...
Okay... is this message "en media res"? Where's the prev. corr.?>
Since I have 2 more dosing pumps I was thinking of dosing strontium and
magnesium as well, what do you think about dosing these two elements,
<... I would do this "manually" after testing every maintenance
interval... to avoid overdosing... Record your actions, test results...
you'll discern a pattern> are these two elements you would recommend
dosing into a reef tank on a regular basis, or would you recommend
something else? <Yes... for you to read. Here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/index.htm the ninth tray
down... and where you lead yourself through the embedded links. Bob
Fenner> AJ Supplementing Calcium
reactor 2/9/05 I was reading the latest FAQ on RO/DI. My question
is if I'm running a calcium reactor do I need to use Kalkwasser with top
off water like you mention? <Likely just a small amount of buffer
after aerating> Thanks TB <Just let your test kit readings for
Calcium and Alkalinity dictate this... that is the only measure that
matters. Anthony> Calcium reactor and new reef aquarium
questions... Hey guys I have a few questions I'd love to get
answered please... I'm in the process of setting up a 65 gallon reef
aquarium I plan on going LPSs, SPS, and a few soft route; I got a 2 150
watt HQI metal halide bulbs and 2 96 watt actinic pc.s, and a refugium
going on this thing. After taking a good look into what I'm doing I plan
on going with a calcium reactor to save me a little trouble. After
looking through reviews I've found that I like the Korallin reactors
reviews and I believe that's the one I'm going with. One thing I saw was
that they said that with their reactors that there is no need for a PH
monitor, would you think this is true or not? <If set-up properly,
not oversized for the system, mineralizing bio life stocking... no need>
Also is there a need for a Kalkwasser dosage after having a CA reactor
on a aquarium? <Some folks do... including Daniel Knop> If not
besides iodine is there any other supplements you would add to this
aquarium? <Maybe... depends... on what there is in the water, what
you're trying to do, with what livestock> Also I have CaribSea
reactor media available to me for easy access would you say that its a
good media to use? <In some cases, yes... in many, no... not soluble
enough, not a consistent product... not worthwhile IMO> Thanks guys
I just really want to get this thing right the first time that's why
I'm almost 4,000 into this aquarium and it doesn't even have water in it
yet, so any advice would be greatly appreciated... <Welcome. Bob
Fenner>
Used calcium reactor question 8/21/05 Was
wanting to check if I should have any specific concerns, before putting
a calcium reactor that has been used with another system. It was a diy
reactor, quite large as in about 4.5 ft tall, and has second
chamber. Its been sitting next to the tank disconnected for about 3
weeks. Should I be worried about the old reactor media, or should I
just empty it now and refill with all new A.R.M. for it? <Mmm, I'd
give the present media a freshwater rinse... that's about it... Am not a
fan of this CaribSea product (inconsistent, doesn't melt readily),
though I do like most of their substrate products> I'll be
re-fitting it as it is, since it apparently when put together has the
2nd chamber in the loop with the first, and not just downstream before
the effluent output. As in, the effluent output t's out of the
circulating pipe that connects the second chamber back to the first.
I'm thinking the 2nd chamber should be out the effluent of the first, in
order to help bring the pH back up a bit prior to it going to the sump.
<Mmm, not generally a concern... many folks gauge flow, utility by the
effluent pH... being low... about 6.8...> As mentioned, it is used,
and when was disconnected has a fairly repugnant odor to it. Which is
main reason I'm asking. <Good point... do rinse it very well then...
toss the media if you have doubt/s. Bob Fenner>
Oh Jeez, It's
"Him" Again - Oxygen reactor?? 10/15/05 Hi guys, it's me again. I
have an AquaMedic Ph controller monitoring the PH inside the JetStream..
I also have my Aquacontroller Monitoring the PH in the tank. If the tank
PH falls below 8.20 the Aquacontroller shuts off the AquaMedic PH
Controller which shuts off the CO2. <Mmm, the
pH shut-off setting needs to be lower> I have the drip rate into my
sump pretty low. I also have the CO2 bubble count
as low as I can. I have a Euro-Reef skimmer running 24-7, 2 Tunze Stream
pumps 24-7. I have a Mag-12 circulating through the sump. If the
excess CO2 is as easy to blow off as you say it
is, then why does my ph drop like a rock when the 20k 250w HQI's go off?
<Mmm, the "countervailing" effects of photosynthesis... think about the
"light reaction"... when the algae are "really going" they are taking up
a bunch of the available CO2... which if not would
be going, staying in solution (longer) as carbonic acid... lowering
pH... Understanzee?> Within 3 hours the tank ph is somewhere around
7.90. At 2am it's at 7.73.. I just tested everything before I hooked up
the CR. Also these are the readings before I did a 20% water change..
Any idea's on why my ph swings so much? <... the carbon dioxide
you're feeding it... likely your best solution here is to incorporate a
timer to shut off this feed during the "dark hours"> ALK total: 2.5
meq/L or was it mg/L.. Seachem Reef status. ALK: 80 PPM.. MOTT test
kit.. MAG: 1250 meq/L.. Seachem Reef status test kit. CAL: 420
MG/L.. I can't keep these meq's and MG's straight.. What is MEQ?
<Milliequivalents (per liter)... a measure of relative concentration...
please see a H.S. level chemistry text, the Net> Salifert test kit..
Cal: 299.28 PPM.. MOTT test kit Thanks, Tommy <You've got the
fancy toys, test gear... just need a bit of useful knowledge to go
with... Bob Fenner> Re: Oxygen reactor?? 10/15/05
PS. So you think the 2nd chamber with an air stone, or the 2nd reactor
just circulating air "no Bubbling Oxygen" would Precipitate the Ca?
<... not likely much. But... of what use, what would you be trying to
accomplish by this? Bob Fenner> Re: Oxygen reactor?? 10/15/05
My thoughts on the 2nd chamber is to raise the effluent from the Ca
Reactor to a higher PH before I drip it into the sump by blowing off the
excess CO2.. <Ooohh, I see> I am on a quest
to keep the PH above 8.00 at night.. I think Making sure the CR is not
just polluting the water with excess CO2 is a good
start.. I have been reading about the problem with CO2
buildup in houses that limit CO2 exchange..
<Yes, happens... carbon dioxide is much more water soluble than most
gasses> I am going to try Plumbing an air pump outside and pumping
air into the skimmer.. If that doesn't help maybe my skimmer isn't big
enough.. it's a Euro-Reef CS6-1 rated for 80 gal, and I have a 72gal
tank.. Thanks, Tommy <Thank you, Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor Building Pressure? - 11/22/05 Hi great site guys
I could read for two days straight!!!! <<Don't stop now!...>> I am
in the process of setting up a Precision Marine calcium reactor. <<A
nice piece of engineering...I have the 622.>> I am in the process of
setting up and getting the bubble-rate and effluent rate correct. My
question is... I am using an Aqualifter pump to feed the calcium reactor
from my sump. <<ok>> If I am pumping in that much water with the
lifter and only letting the effluent drip back to the sump at a rate of
40 drops per minute... Will that create to much pressure in the calcium
reactor from the lifter putting in more than I am letting back in the
sump? <<The pump is not that powerful...nothing to fear here, other
than maybe shortening the life of the pump from excessive back
pressure.>> I do not want it to bust anything or pop off a hose
connection anywhere. <<Put your finger over the pump outlet...I think
you'll see just how little "real" pressure this pump develops.>> I
know that it is not much water coming in from the lifter but thought
that maybe over time the pressure could build from not that much
effluent coming out. <<No worries mate, what little pressure there
might be maxes (is this a word?) <<Not officially, but it's been in
use so long... MH>> out very quickly and will not continue to
"build" from that little flapper pump.>> Or does the back pressure
coming from the reactor only let enough water get in from the
Aqualifter. <<Now you're getting it. <G> >> Thanks so much!!!!
<<A pleasure, EricR>>
Oxygen... Calcium Reactor? 10/13/05
Hi guys, I just hooked up a Schuran Jetstream 1 Calcium reactor.
<Oooohhhh... Fancy!> I haven't got it dialed in just right, but I can
see I am going to have to do something about the residual CO2..
The PH is fine until the lights go out, then it drops like a rock.. I
had the PH controller turning on the CO2 when the
PH in the tank was 8.10.. That apparently isn't high enough, as the PH
was dropping to 7.70 during the night.. I have since reset the CO2
to come on and go off at 8.20 so I will see how it goes. <Residual CO2
is rarely a problem in tanks that have adequate water movement and a
decent skimmer. Your problem may be a result of trying to control the CO2
flow to the reactor based on the tank pH. Since changes in the tank pH
will lag behind changes in the reactor, CO2 laden
reactor effluent will continue to flow into the tank for a while after
the controller shuts off the gas. Also, it takes a huge amount of CO2
to change the tank pH, while it takes a very small amount to change the
reactor chamber pH. I would suggest setting up the controller to measure
the effluent from the calcium reactor and maintaining an effluent pH in
the range of 6.5-7.0 This will temper the swings you are seeing now.
After you get a stable effluent pH, measure the alkalinity and make sure
it is at least 15-20 dKH. If the alk is lower than that, adjust the pH
down a bit.> Meanwhile, I have been brainstorming.. I was first
thinking of getting a Precision Marine Effluent canister to make it a
dual stage Calcium Reactor.. With a little pondering with that idea and
some people stating that the ph of the effluent coming out of a dual
stage is still below 8.00 closer to 7.60.. So then I started thinking of
putting an air stone in the bottom of the PM effluent canister.. That
sounds like a good idea, but then I had a really really good or bad
idea.. Here it is.. I could get a Schuran Pico calcium reactor hook it
up in series after the JetStream 1 and instead of bubbling CO2
into it, I could bubble Oxygen.. I could get another PH controller and
have the effluent getting to my tank at 8.20.. What do you guys think?
Thanks, Tommy <Well, first of all I think that I wish I had your
equipment budget! Bubbling oxygen would have no advantage over bubbling
air. There is so little CO2 in the air that each
would work equally well to scrub out CO2. Also,
aerating the effluent aggressively and raising the pH would cause the
dissolved minerals to precipitate, therefore eliminating the benefit of
the reactor. I really do think your problem will be solved by
controlling the reactor based on effluent pH rather than tank pH. If you
continue to have problems after this change, then I would consider if
you have adequate water movement and gas exchange in the tank. Also, if
you live in a very new house, some are built so tight that CO2 can
actually accumulate in the house! You can verify this by aerating a
sample of water for several hours INdoors. Measure the pH. Aerate the
same sample for several hours OUTdoors and measure the pH again. If
there is a change of more than about 0.2 pH units, you need to get some
fresh air into the room where your tank is. Best Regards. AdamC.>
High Bubble-Rate Calcium Reactor – 10/25/06 Hello all,
<<David>> I've searched for a couple of weeks now for someone else
having the same issue I am with my Knop S-IV CA reactor. <<Okay>>
I have to pump 90 bubbles per minute of C02, and drip 4 drops/sec of
effluent @ a PH of 6.8 to reach 10 DKH and 400ppm Calcium in my 150
Gallon tank. <<Hmm, do you have a large amount of calcifying
organisms in this tank? Maybe you need a larger reactor...or maybe
just better/new reactor media>> I started off with 30 BPM, and 2
drops/3 seconds and I've slowly tweaked the outputs up to this level
over the past few months. I was using a larger Korallith media, and
now I'm using the medium (course) size grain. <<I would suggest you
experiment with some other brands/types of media>> I'm not sure if I
should be concerned with this amount of CO2 being injected. <<Not if
you aren’t experiencing a large depression of your pH>> Everything
seems to be doing well, and my coralline algae growth is impressive.
<<Well then...>> Could I achieve these same results with a higher pH
if I went with the smallest of the Korallith media? <<A higher pH in
your tank or in the reactor?>> My tank parameters: pH 8.15 -
8.25 Ca 390 - 400 NO3 - <.2 (usually undetectable) P04 - <.2
(usually undetectable) SG - 1.025 Temp - 78 - 80 Nitrite - 0
Ammonia - 0 DKH - 9 -10 <<No problems here with the amount of
CO2 you’re using>> Circulation: (about 40x - 45x per hour after head
loss) Sequence Barracuda - Upper spray bar "manifold" with (6) 3/4
adjustable Loc-line outlets Dolphin 4000/3000 - Lower spray bar
through (8) ½-inch PVC outlets Iwaki 40RLXT - Main Return from sump
Top-off water: RO/DI with Silicate membrane - circulated and heated for
24 hours before use. 1" Aragonite substrate (sugar size) AquaC
EV-180 with Mag 9.5 Magnum 250 with Denitrate - used as needed maybe
once a week in the sump Magnum 250 with Phosphate remover - used as
needed maybe once a week in the sump ESV granular carbon or
Chemipure in the sump changed weekly Rowaphos or Poly-Filter in sump
where skimmer returns water, and changed weekly Lighting - Ice Cap
HQI Pendants (2) 250-Watt 10K Ushio MH with (3) 95-watt URI Actinics
Chiller - Pacific Coast Imports CL650 175-Lbs of Live Rock (Fiji and
Tonga) Animals: (Moving slowly) Pincushion Urchin (Lytechinus
vaniegatus) 20 hermits, 30 Astrea snails 6 line wrasse Coral
Beauty 3 small Acropora frags - doing well 1 med leather - Also
doing well, and way far away from frags 3 or 4 mushroom colonies
15% water changes every 2 weeks I know, lots of info for my issue,
but thank you in advance. -David <<I don’t see anything wrong
here other than possibly the reactor is having trouble keeping up with
demand. Do try some different media to see if you can get the bubble
rate down...if only to keep from having to refill the cylinder so
often. Regards, EricR>>
Coralline Algae/Alkaline
Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/07/06 Hi Eric, <<Hey
Ken!>> I hope all is well with you. <<Indeed it is...thank you>>
Things have been going well with the tank, but I have a few questions.
<<Ok>> The tank is set up 6 weeks now. The few soft corals and
star-polyps look good. <<Excellent>> I did buy a clean-up crew
about 10 days ago. I feel like I should put the snails on the
payroll. In the first two days they cleaned all of the greenish algae I
had on the rocks. <<Cool!>> The tank looks good. My nitrate is
less than 1-ppm and phosphate is zero using LaMotte Colorimeter.
<<Very good>> The pH is usually 8.10 to 8.20 and ORP has been about
415MV. <<More good news>> I also have gotten more and more pink
coralline algae on some of the rocks. My first question has to do with
that in the last couple of days I am getting areas of a burgundy color
on the rocks. <<Coralline algae comes in "many" colors>> It
looks to be more on the areas that have some of the pinkish coralline.
<<Conditions in those locations are likely "optimum" for both
species...everything competes for space on the reef>> Also I notice
the burgundy color is all of a sudden on a lot of the turbo snails.
<<Very common>> Is this just another color coralline? <<Indeed
it is>> I am hoping that it is not like red Cyano or something.
<<Can usually tell the difference>> I don't see this on most of the
rocks and none on sand, powerheads, sand etc. I tried scraping it off
with my fingernail and it does come off somewhat. It doesn't seem as
hard as the pink coralline algae. <<Differences in
structure/composition>> I'm not sure if this is coralline or not.
<<Likely so>> I would say that I see this burgundy color mostly on
places that had pink to begin with pretty much. My next question has to
do with my AGA Mega Flow. Their isn't really any algae on my rocks or
tank, but I do have some thick greenish layers of it in the overflow box
only. Should I leave it their, or manually remove it, or can I put a
couple of my turbo snails in there to eat it. <<Can remove or leave,
whichever you prefer...I would not put turbo snails in the overflow box
(will probably get there sooner or later anyway, but...) as they will
get in to the overflow pipes and restrict/block flow>> I thought
about snails and overflows but the Durso pipe and the return pipe are
sealed unit and nothing could get in there. What do you think? <<If
you have some kind of "screen" on the Durso then this may be fine>>
By the way, if I manually remove the algae will anything? <<...?>>
I don't want to spread it around the tank? Also is it possible that
this algae is in its own "container" and it can act like a refugium in a
way? <<Sure...on a very small scale. If nothing else, it is
removing nutrients...but I'll bet close observation will reveal some
tiny crustaceans living there as well>> My last question and most
perplexing and bothersome to me has to do with my calcium reactor. I
have an MTC Pro-Cal calcium reactor. I don't run it all of the time as
my tank is only 6 weeks old and there isn't much in the tank to take up
the Alk and Ca. When my alk gets down to 8dKH, I turn on the CO2 and
run it at 1 bubble per second and the effluent at .02 ml as per the
instructions. This is their starting point. <<And as good as any>>
I will shut of the CO2 once the alk hits 10 or 11 dKH. My Ca usually is
in the 410 to 425 ppm range. The strange thing is that once I run the
Ca reactor for a day or so, I see some of the rock (usually more evident
where the coralline algae is) start to get a whitish tone to it. It
does not blow off. Also, and more importantly, when I take a turkey
baster, I can blow off what almost looks like ash. <<Sounds as if
you may have some carbonaceous material falling out of solution>>
This has happened all three times I ran it. <<You may want to
consider experimenting with different reactor media>> I was
wondering if it was calcium precipitate, but how could it be? <<Easy
enough...the water can only "hold" so much material. Maximizing
alkalinity (11dKH) and calcium (425ppm) over saturates the water with
carbonaceous material. Try test your alkalinity AND calcium after one
of these events...likely BOTH have fallen as a result>> All of the
parameters are in check. I am not using limewater or any additive and I
do 20% water changes weekly with Reef Crystals. Do you have any
ideas? <<The reactor is probably "too large" for the system (right
now anyway) and is producing to much alkaline and calcium reserve than
the tank can "use." I would turn to one of the two-part
alkalinity/calcium supplements for now. Based on your future stocking
levels/specimens, you may find you don't need the reactor>> By the
way, I am using CaribSea Geo Thermal aragonite for the media. <<Mmm,
I see...this product is likely soft/more soluble than others...try
adjusting the reactor effluent to a pH of about 7.0 the next time you
use it and see what results>> I did buy a Kalk stirrer and plan on
using it with my dosing pump and float switch for top off water once I
have the time to set it up in a few days. <<Proceed with caution
here...for now anyway>> I appreciate your help. Regards, Ken
<<Always happy to assist. EricR>> Re: Coralline Algae/Alkaline
Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning – 12/07/06 Hey Eric, <<Ken>>
Thanks for the reply. <<Welcome>> With regards to the calcium
issue, is it possible that my magnesium could be too low? <<Testing
would tell...but no, this is not the reason your alkalinity rises so
fast when the reactor is operating>> If so, what supplement do you
recommend? <<I prefer the Seachem product...though “small and
infrequent” adjustments can be made using simple Epsom Salts>> By
the way, the person at MTC said that I should switch to Instant Ocean
instead of Reef Crystals. <<tomAto-TOMaTO...made/distributed by the
same company. But the Instant Ocean will be fine (is what I use) and
will save you a few bucks to boot>> He said why use salt with all of
the extra ingredients in it when you are supplementing the tank anyway
with a Ca reactor? What do you think? <<The difference in the mixes
is of small consequence here...in my opinion>> Also, I have been
doing 20% water change per week. <<Ah...though water changes are the
single best function you can perform, you might consider reducing this
to every 3-4 weeks to better give this “new” tank time to
stabilize/reach a balance between these changes. Once the tank has
“matured” for a year or so, and if stocking levels warrant, you may find
you need to “up” the frequency>> Do you think this is too much at a
time? <<Too much too often at this stage, yes>> I can tell you
that after the water change, the corals close up for a while and my ORP
drops quite a bit. <<The salt mix is quite “reactive” and irritates
the corals/fish...best to let newly mixed salt mature for a week or two
while being aerated/moved around with a powerhead>> All goes back
eventually of course. <<But not without exacting a “toll” in energy
used/lost>> With regards to a two-part supplement, what do you
recommend? <<E.S.V. or C-Balance>> Do I need to use both parts
together to make it work? (Sorry for the dumb question). <<Yes...do
follow manufacturer’s instructions closely>> Lastly, wouldn't the
addition of limewater as top off and no further supplementation or Ca
reactor work for me at this point as long as I watch the alk and don't
let it go over 11 dKH? <<You need to monitor both alkalinity AND
calcium...these elements are mutually exclusive at the high end of their
ranges, which is why you experience the precipitation events>> I am
at 7.5 dKH right now. <<A “tad” low>> Why did you note to
proceed with caution? <<You are already having problems with high
alkalinity and calcium when running the Ca reactor...utilizing
Kalkwasser in conjunction will compound the issue>> By the way, I
evaporate approx 4 or 5 quarts per day right now. Thanks again.
Regards, Ken <<Cheers mate, EricR>> R2: Coralline
Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/08/06 Hey
Eric, <<Ken>> All noted. <<Cool>> You did mention that I
had high alkalinity but the testing doesn't bare this out. <<...?>>
It was high when I first set up the tank, but has been in the 11-12 dKH
range ever since. <<And this is the "high" end of the acceptable
range...couple this with calcium levels above 400ppm and you have the
"potential" for precipitous events>> I waited until the alkalinity
hit 7-8 dKH before turning on the CO2. I measured morning and
night. The alk never hit 8dKH but I still got the precipitate.
<<Mmm...pretty sure you stated in a previous query your alkalinity had
reached 11dKH and with calcium at 425ppm>> Something is odd here I
think. <<Hmm, maybe...though likely much to do with the
newness/instability of the system>> Oh yea and Ca was about 415 ppm.
<<Again, on the high end...>> I didn't even have the CO2 running for
24 hours? <<I'm still guessing the reactor needs more
tuning/backing-off on bubble/effluent rates>> I am definitely
confused. Good thing that I can rest on the fact that this is a
relaxing hobby. :) <<Ha! Indeed...>> Regards, Ken <<Be
chatting, EricR>> R3: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca
Reactor Tuning - 12/08/06 Hi Eric, <<Hey Ken>> I did
have alkalinity at 11 dKH and calcium at 425 ppm, however the alkalinity
was at 8 dKH when I turned on the reactor. <<Understood>> I was
just confused at the precipitate in the tank. <<As previously
explained...I think (?)>> I also thought that 1 bubble per second
and effluent of .02 ml was not a lot. <<Is all relative...may very
well be/appears to be too much for "your" system>> I guess I am
wrong? <<Just new...and learning...>> Anyway, I ordered a new
solenoid as the one I have now I cannot adjust under this amount of 1
bubble per second as it doesn't seem to be too fine. <<Mmm, I
see...might have been able to use a simple pinch-clamp on the hose in
conjunction with the current solenoid/metering valve>> Also from
what the Ca reactor maker said, it should be running all of the time and
not off and on. <<Bull...how can the "maker" know what your system's
needs are/what's best for your tank? Only by testing can you/anyone
determine if the Ca reactor needs to be fed CO2 on a full-time
basis. To help with pH swings, I have my Ca reactor on a timer that
turns off the CO2 when the lights come-on on my vegetable refugium
(refugium is on a RDP)>> I will try it at maybe 30 or 40 bubbles per
minute and watch the tank and test morning and night for a few days and
see what happens. <<Once you reduce the bubble-rate, adjust the
effluent until the effluent pH is about 7.0 with the CaribSea media>>
If I still have issues, should I use something like ESV two-part or
Kalkwasser (watching pH of course) until my tank has more of an
alkalinity and calcium demand? <<Try the two-part over the
Kalkwasser for now...but honestly...with your current stock
list/stocking density, monthly 20% water changes should be quite
sufficient for maintaining the tanks earth elements>> Also the Ca
reactor maker recommends aragonite for his reactor, is this a good
choice? <<It is, most all reactor media is a "form" of
aragonite. Do look in to the larger "European style" (10mm nominal)
medias as carried by 'Premium Aquatics' and 'Aquarium Specialty' (the
latter is owned by a friend of mine). Scott at Aquarium Specialty also
has a Magnesium granulate that can be added to the CA reactor and may
help with maintaining this element as well>> Lastly, I will cut back
on my water changes as per the last email. <<For the best I
believe>> What percent and how many times a month do you recommend?
<<With the tank so new and lightly stocked, I think 25% per month would
be just fine>> Thanks, Ken <<Always welcome. Eric Russell>>
R4: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/12/06
Hi Eric, <<Hello Ken>> The tank looks good, but I am still
trying to figure out the Ca and alk deal. I haven't added anything to
the tank in a week. <<Good>> My alk was 9 dKH and Ca was about
385 ppm last night. <<Both excellent values>> I changed about 5%
water last Friday. <<...thought we agreed to cut back on this and
let the tank find its "balance" *grin*>> Right now I guess there is
no need to do anything. <<Agreed>> At what reading do you think
I need to take action? <<As long as alkalinity stays within 8-12 dKH
and Ca between 350-450 ppm; and keeping both from being at the high end
of their respective range at the same time, then you need do
nothing. If any adjustments do need to be made then make "small" ones>>
I don't want to get involved in that two-part addition additive.
<<Ok>> I have the Ca reactor and the Kalk stirrer and I would rather
go that route when the time comes. <<Indeed...both are better
methodologies. And you could probably go ahead and use the calcium
reactor...with a different (harder) media and "fine tuning" of the
reactor effluent>> By the way, I had checked my Mg and it was
somewhere between 1230 and 1260. So this doesn't appear to be low.
<<Nope>> You mentioned about a larger media for the Ca
reactor. What would the purpose be for using this over the CaribSea
aragonite that I have? <<Slower dissolution...as it appears now, the
calcium reactor is overwhelming your system> By the way, I did get
myself a better Co2 controller for better control over how much is
added. I will hold off on the reactor until for the present. <<I
would try a different media, crank-back the output, and see what happens
now>> With regards to the Kalkwasser stirrer, can I dose some amount
with my top off water? <<You can...if the system will handle it...>>
I have a Liter Meter and it administers is whatever you want to set it
at. It just takes that amount you want to deliver in a 24 hour period
and divides it into 150 doses. <<Understood>> That looks to be a
dose each 9.6 minutes. So if I dose as per my evaporation rate of a
gallon per day, this would mean it would dose .85 of an ounce every 9.6
minutes. I could also set with a timer and only have it dose for the
12-hour lights-off period. I would then tell the Liter Meter that it
doses 2-gallons a day so that it can dose the 1-gallon in that 12-hour
period that is needed. <<Mmm, better to run 24/7 for better system
stability if will be your only means for top-off>> I could also use
a timer and have it dose 1/2-gallon in 12-hours with limewater and then
does the other 12-hours with just my ro/di water. What do you think?
<<Ah, even better to run/dose separately. I would set the meter to add
the fresh top-off water (minus whatever volume of limewater you decide
to dose) throughout a 24-hour period, and then set the limewater to be
added during "lights out">> Getting back to my "ash" debris on the
rocks. I had mentioned previously that I noticed this after I ran the
Ca reactor. <<Maybe another indicator that the CaribSea media id
being dissolved "too fast">> However I have not run it in a week and
I still noticed it when I blew off the rocks the last few days.
<<Likely the material will not go back in to solution and is
resettling...along with detritus in the tank...this is not
uncommon/unusual>> Maybe it is not from the CO2 reactor and maybe
not calcium precipitate? <<Possibly detritus>> It's hard to
describe what it looks like on the rock except debris. Almost looks
like blowing ashes. <<Does sound like "precipitate"...hmm or
maybe...you haven't added a flocculent to your system have you?>> It
is not powdery like what I get when I use the turkey baster and blow out
the holes in the rocks. <<I see>> Could the rock be breaking
down at all? <<Doubtful>> The tank itself looks good. The two
tangs and the few soft corals/star-polyps look good. Phosphate is still
zero and nitrate is .15ppm using LaMotte. <<All good>> Thanks
and regards, Ken <<I'll wager everything will "settle
in/stabilize" with time and less "fiddling" of the system. Regards,
EricR>>
R5: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor
Tuning - 12/14/06 Hey Eric, <<Hey Ken>> The 5% water
change was not planned. After having the tank set up for 7 weeks,
having the powerheads blow all of the initial stuff around etc, my sump
was a mess. The only way to get it out was with putting a tube on the
suction side of a powerhead and send the stuff to a bucket.
<<Ah...ok>> I ended up going through about 5 gallons of water. I
saw no negative in this at all. <<Agreed>> I will check into the
other medias for the Ca reactor but before I do, I want to see if I can
adjust the CO2 bubble rate with what I have now. <<A good plan>>
The aragonite I am using now has been used successfully for many people,
and maybe I just don't have it set right for my tank presently.
<<This is my primary suspicion...that the reactor is not "tuned" to your
system>> I will wait for the alk and/or Ca to drop and then try the
limewater dosing that we discussed (12 hr for ro/di and 12 hr
limewater). <<Ok>> You mentioned flocculent. I'm not sure what
this is. <<It is often sold as a "clarifier" to rid the water column
of small suspended particles (no place for it in a reef tank in my
opinion). It will "clump" matter together that may resemble the "ash"
you mentioned previously>> Note though that I have not added
anything to my tank at all. <<Noted>> Thanks and regards,
Ken <<Cheers mate, Eric Russell>> R6: Calcium Reactor Issue -
11/09/06 Hey Eric, <<Hey Ken>> Well I tested ammonia and
nitrite last night (48 hours after the water change). I got .14 ppm on
LaMotte Colorimeter. I also used Fastest and it looked like the color
at the lowest (which could be zero too on this kit). <<Go with the
LaMotte kit's reading>> Ammonia on LaMotte was zero on Monday
night. Nitrite was 0.792 (after multiplying by 3.3 to convert). Using
Fastest, it was a faint pink color. It seems to me maybe that the
readings are higher than the previous night. <<Maybe so>> Was
the cycling thrown back maybe? <<Maybe...marginally>> Does this
mean that the rock won't perform as well, or just that things are
delayed? <<The rock will be fine/unaffected>> Also to get zero
for nitrite, does there have to be perfectly clear in the tube with no
tint of color whatsoever? <<Hmm...whatever the instructions for the
particular test kit tells you>> With regards to calcium and
alk. I'm sure my calcium can't be too high if my alk is, as I don't
think chemically that can happen. <<Um...generally mutually
exclusive, agreed...but both can be pushed beyond their limits resulting
in a precipitous event as you experienced...best to test>> If I am
going to keep mostly LPS and soft corals, (not sure about SPS at this
point), is my calcium reactor a waste? <<Not at all...LPS have
calcareous skeletons and many soft corals utilize calcareous "spicules"
for support>> Am I better off with a Kalkwasser reactor instead?
<<Can be useful...but probably not needed for your system as planned
right now>> Or is a calcium reactor a benefit period to a reef tank.
<<Many times...yes>> Thanks, Ken <<Regards, EricR>>
Calcium Reactor Adjustment/Potential for Earth Element Overload –
01/23/07 Hi gang, <<Hello Chuck>> I just bought a
Korallin 1502 calcium reactor for my reef. . .and am seeing almost
immediate improvement in the health/appearance of my corals after an
over-the-holidays stretch of having trouble maintaining calcium/PH.
<<Glad you found a solution to the problems>> My questions are
these: (1) Since the aragonite media is being dissolved in
pressurized-and CO2-enriched tank water, is it difficult (or preferably
impossible) to create a 'snowstorm' effect as long as I don't add other
tank additives which would affect alkalinity? <<I think it unlikely
as long as the reactor is not grossly oversized for the system. In
other words, if the unit was to provide calcium/alkaline material faster
than the system could utilize it then there might be the potential for
overload...though I can’t say I’ve ever heard of a precipitous event
attributed to the calcium reactor. But even so, these are not “install
and forget” pieces of equipment. You still need to monitor earth
element/bio-mineral content and make adjustments to the reactor as
necessary>> (2) Are some of the other minerals (strontium,
magnesium, etc.) which are in the media being released in bio-available
form for use by the corals and other occupants of my system? (I've
heard/read both 'yes' and 'no' on this.) <<This stands to reason,
yes...though content will vary with differing medias and all elements
don’t have the same range/rate of solubility so who’s to say “how much”
of the available elements in the media are being reintroduced. As with
alkalinity/calcium, these to need to be tested periodically and
supplement as/if necessary>> BTW, after a bit of trouble finding the
right CO2 bubble rate vs. effluent drip rate for best effect on the
smaller Korallin model, the tech guys at Marine Depot advised 15-20
bubbles per minute with about 60 drops of effluent. . .scaling it back a
bit once the desired levels are reached. <<Good advice this last>>
I bring it up only because it's not something that was in my owner's
manual. <<Thank you for the input>> Chuck <<Regards, Eric
Russell>>
CA Reactors…Calculating Dissolution - 12/31/06
Good morning, <<Hello>> I would like to ask a question
pertaining to the "Calcium Reactor without CO2? - 12/14/06" thread.
<<Ok>> I have been considering the same thing as the original
inquiry. I have well water with a pH of 5.7-5.8 after RO/DI. <<I
see>> I know enough chemistry to be dangerous, which is not much. I
seem to remember it would be possible to calculate the amount of Ca
liberated by raising the pH from a given point to the point it will no
longer react with the media. The problem is I cannot find the equation
anywhere. Thanks <<Hmm, don't know what that equation would be
either...I'm sure Bob will chime in if he knows. But so you know, the
media will "react" at "any" pH level...it's just that at the higher pH
more bicarbonate has been converted to carbonate leaving less "room" for
the media to dissolve before reaching the point of saturation where the
reaction stops. According to Randy Holmes-Farley... "At a pH of 6.5,
about 50 times less carbonate is present than in the same solution at pH
8.2"... The difference here being the lower pH allows "much more
calcium" to dissolve before reaching saturation. Regards, EricR>>
<There are solubility product constants... and I do believe/think that
these can be calculated further for different pHs... the KOH for
carbonates being? Perhaps a go with a CRC reference... or trip to a
large (college) library, help at a Chemistry dept... Am out in HI, and
too bushed from traveling to do much more than make these vague
generalizations. RMF>
- kH and Ca question -
Greetings my lords... <Oh please... I'm just a regular old human...>
I just want to ask a few simple questions: 1) Am I right that Calcium
reactor increases kH but Kalkwasser increases Ca? <The calcium reactor
is good for both Ca and kH - the Kalkwasser is good really only for the
calcium.> 2) Now I'm using only Ca Rector. My kH is 8 dKH and Calcium
~ 400 mg/l. Is it ok? <I think that is fine.> 3) If not what should i
do to increase kH (using only Calcium Reactor and/or Kalkwasser [i mean:
not using any other solutions like KENT etc.]), if it's possible of
course? <It is possible, but is it necessary - I think if you've got
some calcium-greedy inhabitants, and you can keep those Ca and kH
readings consistent, the system will do just fine.> 4) I'm adding
water from Ca reactor with 1,5 drop / second and 0,5 bbls / second > Is
it well calibrated or should i recalibrate it? <While that seems like a
lot of CO2 to add, I'd say that all reactors are different and if you
can keep these results consistent, you will be doing just fine. Perhaps
keep your eyes on the pH of the system for stray CO2.> Tanks for
answer in simple words ;-) Great website by-the-way <Is the result of
contributions like this.> Peter <Cheers, J -- > - Calcium
Reactor and Kalkwasser Slurry - Hi... <Greetings, JasonC
here...> I've recently added a calcium reactor, and have tweaked it
to the appropriate dKH (11) and calcium (~470) that I was looking
for. As happens with reactors, though, my pH has suffered a tad - 7.8
in the morning, 8.0 in the afternoon. I've had recommendations of using
a light Kalkwasser slurry with my nighttime RO top-off, and was
wondering if you had a recommendation on that, or any other additive
that I could use with the top-off to help raise the pH ~0.2 or so. <I
would just add buffers to the top-off and for the most part skip the
Kalkwasser. Perhaps add the Kalkwasser once a week - test for calcium,
don't add more than your system needs or you may precipitate the
calcium.> I know that some advocate a calcium reactor as well as a Kalk
reactor, but I really can't sink more money (or under-tank space) into a
Kalk reactor. <I don't think the Kalkwasser reactor is necessary. You
might also consider turning off the CO2 via the solenoid over night to
avoid the corresponding pH drop.> Thanks... Arthur <Cheers, J
-- > Calcium reactor and Kalkwasser Hic! Good evening
guys, it's 8.00pm over here on this glorious st pats day, and I've just
got in from the pub with 5 pints of the best Guinness this side of
Dublin firmly tucked up inside, i am sat here with my beer goggles on so
if my typing goes a little astray you'll know why, after my email this
morning i have tested my water parameters are as follows: Nitrate
12mg/l SeaTest Phosphate 0mg/l SeaTest Nitrite 0mg?l Ammonia
0mg/l ph 8.08 Could I be right in thinking that the nitrate might
be depressing the ph slightly and ultimately the dKH, as the dKH of the
tank is 8 (German) and the effluent leaving the reactor is 19.
<Doubtful it would depress dKH/alk. More likely to depress pH, which is
only slightly depressed.> I have only had it running like this for
about 2 weeks as a lot of reefers over here like to have the dKH leaving
the reactor at about 35 degrees (German) this is virtually impossible to
achieve using a Knop, so I visited Bobs site on Knop reactors and
altered the parameters as per his instructions (effluent about 1 litre
per hour/gas about 20 bubbles per minute). So I am hoping that in a
couple more weeks the dKH will rise, if this doesn't work I was
pondering purchasing a small aqua medic denitrator, my tank is chock
full of Fijian live rock and I change 5 gallons every weekend, using
instant ocean with r/o water (but i do not use any buffer). <I would
lower nitrates but I doubt it is depressing alk. How about top off? RO
as well? This may be your issue. No mention of total volume here, but
top off and new water with low alk/dKH could off-set reactor while you
are trying to actually elevate alk. I would aerate and test new water
and ad buffer/carbonate supplement as needed to get alk/dKH in proper
range.> Lastly with regard to the Aragamite, I will still use it but
can it be used in the same water as the Kalkwasser? <I would dose
separately.> Sorry about the length of the mail but its the ramblings
of a half p-----d Manchurian. Paul <Hope you are having fun Paul.
Happy St. Patrick's day! Craig> - Calcium Reactor Question -
<Good morning, JasonC here...> I have a K2R Calcium Reactor in my
sump. I have a powerhead running it. Right now I have it set up so the
powerhead and the recirculating pump are running all the time. The
controller turns the CO2 off and on. I think from reading on the web
site that you are supposed to turn off the pump the feed's the reactor.
<Nope.> I have tried this but the reactor just back siphons into the
sump. <That's why you don't want to do it.> Do you have any suggestions
on how to stop the back siphoning? <Leave the pump running, turn off the
CO2 with the controller like you have it now... is fine.> Thanks a
lot for your help! <Cheers, J -- > WWM new book and CA
reactor 7/8/03 Anthony, GREAT BOOK YOU TWO, and to the rest of
the contributors. Thanks for the signed personalized copy!! <our
pleasure... thank you!> Do I understand it right when you say this is
only the 1st in a 3 volume set? <quite correct... Fishes and then
Cnidarians to follow> Anywho, I have a 90 gallon reef with one maxima
clam and about 10 LPS corals, and hooked up to it a Knop model C calcium
reactor. Here's my readings: tank: Alk.-10dkh, CA-330-340,
PH-8.1-8.2 . <all good except the pH is a little flat. Do consider
a second media chamber on the outflow of the reactor to temper this>
Reactor readings are: Alk-17dkh, CA-440, PH-6.6 . Is this reactor
going to push up the calcium in the tank ? <can be finessed yes...
but your moderate readings if kept consistent will be better/safer for
coral growth than difficult and inconsistent spikes to idealized high
end extremes. No worries> I've been running it for about 5 months and
changed out the Korallith media once already. <good> I thought I
might be able to stop adding Kalkwasser everyday, and maybe just once or
twice a week with a CA reactor but that doesn't look like its going to
be the case. <can be... but then... Kalk still has huge benefits>
Any ideas to get some more of this CA from the reactor into the tank?
<definitely the second reactor chamber will help> Or is that all I
might be able to get out of it? Also I know my tank PH is a little low
, any ideas on getting that up? <do check to see that it is not an
aeration issue (accumulated CO2 in the system)> Thinking about adding
a second chamber to this reactor setup, but I don't know what to use for
it, <same media if you like> or what kind of readings I would want to
get for the effluent out of the second chamber (do they want to be the
same as for the first? ) <a higher pH for sure> Maybe a simple
plan on what to use for the second chamber would be a good start for
me. And one more thing , I know I know, I have the reactor feed off a
tee from my mag. 9 , and I think I might be over-pressuring the reactor
because I shut off the co2 and RA for water changes and then when I turn
it back on the gas has a hard time getting out of the bubble counter
without my help, (a couple power outages and I noticed that the co2 was
not going in, it was just stuck in the bubble counter tube.) Should I
go to a dedicated powerhead for this supply and if so what one and size
would suffice? <hmmm... not sure the dedicated PH would do the
trick... but it is a safer and more sensible strategy. I agree. Do
consider adding a proper Eheim as a dedicated pump. Best regards,
Anthony> - Calcium Reactor Solenoid - Got another
question I was told that when the lights go off on the aquarium so does
the calcium reactor... I was told that it stays on 24/7 ... I'm not sure
need help <All depends on what is going on with your pH and how your
system is setup... systems with algae refugiums tend to have more stable
pH overnight so it's a safe bet to leave the calcium reactor running. If
your pH takes a dive overnight, it works out better for your system to
turn off the reactor with the lights so the reactor doesn't drive the pH
down further. If you're not sure where to go from here, run a bunch of
pH tests at many times of the day and night - if your average pH
overnight is dropping below 8.0 - 8.2, run the reactor with the lights.
Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor Adjustment - Anybody
and all of WWM Crew, I have to know you're opinion on a couple calcium
reactors. I currently own a Knop C reactor and I find it very
troublesome, There is a lot of air that gets trapped at the bottom of
the reactor, the effluent valve keeps clogging and I can never get it
set to a constant rate, water comes in and back-fills the bubble counter
when I loose power or shut down the solenoid valve, the calcium is at
450 at the effluent but the tank wont' go above 350, I've had it for
about 7 months and I just don't really care for it. <Sounds to me like
it's not adjusted properly and/or you're not using the Knop media.> As I
said though my biggest concerns are the CO2 build-up at the bottom and
that effluent valve that just doesn't seem to work for me. <Try
increasing the effluent drip rate.> I'm wondering if any of you have
used the Korallin reactor and had any problems with it, and also if
anyone has any problems with the Knop S IV reactor. <I've used the Knop
type C and the S-IV.> Those are the 2 reactors I'm thinking about
getting, could someone tell me if one or the other is a better running
one, or if one of those has had any similar problems as I have with the
Knop C. <I really like the S-IV and I am aware of some of the
shortcomings of the type-C [bubble-counter filling up when the CO2 is
off, but I've used one for over a year without other issues - it is a
fine reactor. If I were you, I'd spend a little more time trying to
tweak the reactor before I ran out and bought another one. You can cause
yourself the same problems with a maladjusted S-IV.> Steer me right,
thanks <Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor & Rising pH -
Hello, I have a question that seems just the opposite of all that I have
read on your site, I just set up a calcium reactor made by "My Reef
Creations" it is a dual chamber reactor. The bubble count is 22 per
minute and the drip rate is 3 drops per second. <Seems a little fast to
me on both counts... should be about 15 bpm on the CO2 and 3 drops per
two seconds on the effluent... but not a rule set in stone.> The
effluent out from the second chamber is as follows: PH 7.2, alk 16 DKH
and Calcium 500ppm. <These readings seem good enough.> I have been
monitoring the tank parameters and alk and calcium are rising, but I
have also seen the tanks PH rise daily sense the installation from 8.25
to nearly 8.5 over a weeks time. My question is will this stabilize or
just keep rising? <Well, I'd like to say it would stabilize but it may
not. What else is in your care regimen that you've not mentioned here -
do you add Kalkwasser? Do you have an algae refugium?> The drip is going
into my sump through a overflow bulkhead and is getting mixed with some
air so I am thinking any excess CO2 is getting released into the
atmosphere. <With a second chamber on your reactor, I doubt seriously
that you have any excess CO2 at all. In fact, I would test the effluent
before the second chamber... should be in the range of pH 6.5-6.7. If
not, make some adjustments... it would seem in this case that you can
afford your final effluent to be a slightly lower pH.> Will alkalinity
from the reactor keep increasing the PH? <Not forever, but you do
understand that the presence of buffers makes the maintenance of a
higher pH much more easy. As I mentioned before, you should look to
other things you might be doing - buffering top-off water, Kalkwasser,
two-part additions as sources for a pH boost [as the most common trend
in aquaria is towards a depressed pH] and stop those practices. A
calcium reactor all on it's own won't raise the pH but the additional
buffers along with the aforementioned practices could cause some
problems.> Thanks Mike <Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor
& Rising pH, Follow-up - Since the reactor has been set up I
stopped using Kalkwasser, I do have a refugium inline, My PH prior to
the reactor never climbed that high 8.2-8.35 was the normal range. The
only additives I add is iodine. I do add buffer to my water before
adding salt when making water for changes, but add no buffers to tank
since setting up the reactor. I will try making some adjustments to the
reactor to lower the effluents PH. <Sounds good. Let us know how it
goes.> Thanks <Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor Tweaking
- Hi guys, Hope all is well. <It is indeed, thanks for asking.>
Wondered if you would mind answering a couple of questions for me. <I
can certainly try.> I have just made a calcium reactor, partly from
OZ reef Diy plans (great site), and similar projects. After some
tinkering it works a treat. The calcium level is coming out of the
reactor at around 550 ppm, and the alkalinity is around 35 KH in dKH, or
approx 11.50meq/L! <Egads, that is a little high... best to shoot for a
dKH of about 15 to 17.> Bubble rate is around 12-15 p/min., pH is
6.70. Here's the problem. I have been reading up on the amount to
dose the system, and I know that every tank is different, but I would
really appreciate your input on the amount I should drip in to the tank.
The tank and sump is 200 litres capacity, there is 20Kg of live rock
heavy coralline, and around 6-8 soft corals of different descriptions. I
have estimated, although I am in the process of doing this again without
adding remineralized RO top up water, to be around 0.305 meq/L per day.
Which is not a lot really I know, but as soon as I can afford good
lights I plan to stock some SPS corals. Current tank levels are 3.09
meq/L, and calcium is at 400 ppm (still working out the demand for calc
at the mo) I have had problems past of depressed pH in the main tank,
and with great advise from you sourced it to poorly prepared RO water. I
am therefore a little hesitant of dripping the effluent back into the
tank straight from the reactor, so I have been bottling it and aerating
it before dosing, which kind of gets rid of one of the benefits of not
having to dose manually! <Indeed.> So really to get to the point! I
would like your opinion on what I should set the effluent drip rate at,
<Three drops every two seconds should be about right, but this is
different for every system... test a lot and make adjustments as
necessary.> should I concentrate on keeping the alkalinity at the right
level, or the calcium using the reactor). <Concentrate on alkalinity and
the resulting pH in your tank - the calcium will take care of itself.>
If the alkalinity is at the right level and the calcium falls, should I
dose with other supplements to bring it back up, or just reduce the CO2
input& or increase effluent and do it that way. <Typically, unless your
calcium demand becomes very high, you should be able to keep up with
demand using just the reactor. Again... testing is the key and you don't
want the pH of the effluent to be too low so be careful how much CO2 you
put into the reactor.> I know you receive many mails about this topic
and I have spent many an hour going over them. <The answers were there,
my friend.> I have built this reactor for a cost of 40 pounds, but don't
really want to stress my tank which cost around 1000 pounds! <Just
because good things bear repeating... test, and test some more... make
small adjustments and then test again.> Any help/advise always greatly
appreciated Many Thanks Rob (UK) <Cheers, J -- > -
Calcium Reactor Tweaking - G'day guys me again. <Hi, Stu.>
Just a quick few questions: Firstly I have connected my Calcium
Reactor up and things are working okay. Just wanted to know how to raise
the PH in the Effluent, as at the moment it is about 6.2-6.3 and from
your info it seems 6.6-6.8 is ideal. <Either turn down the CO2, or
increase the drip rate of the effluent.> Secondly with a solenoid now
connected to the CO2 unit and on a timer as the lights, is it okay for
the calcium reactors pumps to still be operating when the solenoid is
switched off with no co2 being pumped into the system. <Yes, you want
this pump to be operating all the time.> And when the CO2 turns back on
via the solenoid being activated in the morning will the pH, Ca and kH
resume back at the same level? <After a couple of minutes, yes.> So in
short term once I find the right pH, ca and kH, the unit should continue
to work at that level every day? <Yes.> Lastly after 2 years I want
to remove the existing sand from the bottom of the tank and put in some
new live sand. Any complications with this? <Just clouding/dusting up
the entire tank, but not a big deal... will go away in a day or two.>
Thanks Stu <Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor and
Kalkwasser - Hi, I have a 210 gallon tank with a calcium reactor
and do 38 gallon a week water changes. After aerating and adding the
salt can I use Kalkwasser alone to adjust the ph in my 38 gallon
replacement water mixture? <Wouldn't do this. Although the Kalkwasser
will raise your pH, you're adding calcium at the same time. Could be a
lot to add in one dose via the water change, if tank chemistry is right,
could cause a precipitation event. Best to add Kalkwasser as a drip or
in small amounts first thing in the morning.> Thanks Greg
<Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor Operation - Hi Folks,
First I would like to thank you for your reply on the Paint Ball gun CO2
bottle. I did go with a standard 5 Lbs bottle and I now have my reactor
bubbling away with some 4th day questions after its operation and
reading as many articles as possible from your site. To begin I have a
90 gal reef Tank with mostly the light living type corals...exp:
Elegance, Hammer, Fox.. etc. My water is at 7.9 ph (Low I know) hardness
of about 9 DKH (Also Low). I run my outlet from my reactor to a 1/2
liter hang on holding cup with holes drilled half way up. I do this to
filter sediment out and is a good place to get a test on effluent.
<Sediment? There shouldn't be any.> Recently I have placed about 2
inches of Aragonite (ARM) in the bottom. I figure it can't hurt whatever
CO2 is still present can work on this and kind of act like a second
stage. <Ok.> My Ph levels in the effluent cup are 6.9 with a hardness
that is off scale. I have a Knop C reactor with a bubble count of aprox.
24 and a effluent drip of about 1 to 1.5 drops a second. Ok the
questions. I understand that there are 2 output variables 1) CO2
flow 2) Effluent Flow We have 3 result factors 1) Tank Ph
<Uhh... effluent pH which will affect tank pH, but must start with and
consider effluent pH.> 2) Carbonate Hardness 3) Calcium I read
your FAQ's about the Marble Theory My question if you get a high
Hardness and a lower Calcium content, what do you adjust to turn it
around? CO2 flow or effluent Flow? <Neither... calcium reactors are
really alkalinity reactors. The main byproduct is highly alkaline water
with some calcium added. If you're not getting much calcium out of the
reactor, you might want to try something other than ARM, and perhaps the
Knop Korallith, which is recommended for this reactor.> Or how do you
increase both to correct levels with out adversely affecting the Tank
Ph? <You've got to address all in concert - one reason why turning CO2
off over night is an option worth considering... won't drive down the pH
over night. If you've only just gotten this reactor running on the tank,
then you won't see system-wide results for a week or so... give it some
time.> If your tank is lower in pH then you still have a choice of
increasing CO2 flow and decreasing the Effluent drip. <Uhh, no. For
starters, don't make both adjustments at once - doing one or the other
will accomplish the same result - doing both will produce the same
result in much greater quantities. If you increase the production of
carbonic acid in the reactor, this will drive down the pH in your main
tank.> Or would you opt to go with a lower CO2 flow and increase the
effluent Drip. <This is a better option, but again - one adjustment or
the other should bring you into a useful range.> I will soon be
getting a Ph controller and then this will be more like a doser,
injecting CO2 to a certain lower Tank Ph and then allowing it to return
to a higher Ph value as the effluent does not have the CO2 influence.
My Corals have never been happier right now even with my numbers off a
bit but I am sure this must be the introduction of some CO2, for Light
living types this must be like happy gas for them. Still a bit
confused... <Keep on reading.> Thanks, Fred <Cheers, J -- >
- Calcium Reactor Operation - Hi, I recently purchased an ALS
CR-500 Calcium Reactor. Currently I supplement 1 1/2 scoops of Tropic
Marin Bio-Calcium in order to keep my calcium level at 425ppm, PH
8.0-8.4. I don't recall the alk but it was within the accepted
levels. I was wondering, when I setup my reactor and start dosing, I am
assuming that I will have to stop using the Bio-Calcium. Correct? <Yes,
you should adding other calcium additives with the exception of
Kalkwasser - you can add that in small amounts.> My other concern is
that I do not have a PH controller. <Not really a concern if you set up
the reactor carefully, spend the time to learn its nuances.> I have read
on your site where you suggest running the reactor when the lights are
on so that the PH does not get too depressed. <Again... you won't know
until you run the reactor on the tank, how the two work together. Not
all tanks have this problem - if you have an algal sump that is lit
opposite of the sump for instance, you'd have no trouble running a
calcium reactor 24/7.> The manufacturer suggests a certain drip rate,
but that is for the full day operation. Am I better off running when
the lights are on only? <Perhaps you misunderstood - you turn only the
CO2 on and off with the lights. No need to adjust the drip rate of
anything... just turn off the CO2 and the reaction will stop, the
remaining carbonic acid will slowly be replaced by regular tank water
due to the continual drip. Leave the reactor's circulation pump running
24/7.> Does this mean I have to increase the drip rate and effluent rate
to compensate for the fact it is not running all day? <No.> Thanks,
Jo <Cheers, J -- > New Calcium reactor 3/28/04 Hi
gang- <howdy!> I just finished setting up the 265 (phew !). The
110 gal is getting broken down :( One addition to this system is the MTC
calcium reactor. It too is up and running but my calcium levels are low
currently (320). <actually...they are just fine. It's more/most
important to simply keep Ca levels steady. A steady 320 ppm will grow
reef creatures faster than a spiking 420ppm> DKH is 10.2 which is a
little higher than I would want it ideally (9.8 or so). I have been
using the B-Ionic 2 part system which I may discontinue in the new
setup. My question is this. How do I boost the Ca level without risking
lowering the pH ? <you mean raising the pH I presume... and as such,
temporary use of Calcium Chloride will do the trick> It is currently
8.2 which is ideal... Last time my Ca levels got this low, I started
losing some coral... <I can assure you that was not because the Ca
was low, but from other dynamics that worked in concert
(business/laziness that led to overall neglect of other aspects of water
quality beyond Ca supplementation> Can I add only part 2 of the 2
component system ??? <you can... although its too expensive to make
that a habit IMO <G>> Dan <best regards, Anthony> Kalk -
calcium hydroxide use 3/8/04 HI: I just started using Kalk in my
seventy gallon reef a month ago. Until I read some of you faq's I see
dosing is best at night. <yes... a must because Kalk is caustic (high
pH) and pH climbs by day and falls at night. Its the best time to dose
it> My question is do I ever stop feeding the Kalk and if so for how
long. <you must test for you daily need of calcium (test kits) and
then calculate how must Kalk (or any calcium supplement) is needed to
meet that need.> If I bring in my water for testing and I an told the
pH and alk is ok do I still dose. <this is not about pH, my friend,
although Kalk does help to support pH and alkalinity. It is a calcium
supplement and is to be dosed and finessed as such> I use purified
water when I dose, I was told never to add tap water to a salt tank.
What do you advise? <purified water should be aerated for 24 hrs in
advance to increase the pH and then it likely should be buffered before
salting or using it for evap top off. Leave plain if its for Kalk use
though. It sounds like you really need to buy and read a good book on
reef husbandry my friend. Seek Paletta's "New Marine Aquarium" for
marine basics... and read the first half of my "Book of Coral
Propagation" for reef keeping coverage. Thank You, Richard Levine
<kindly, Anthony Calfo> - To Add the Reactor, Or Not -
Folks, Having saved my pennies long and hard I was about to buy a
calcium reactor, prior to adding clams and some LPS to my 5 x 2 x 2.
However testing has shown that my current DKH and calcium levels are
bad. DKH at about 6, calcium at 280. I suspect that if I add a reactor
now it might make things worse... <Why would it do that?> should I try
to get a better balance before I add one. <I wouldn't - the calcium
reactor will bring things into line over time - just don't rush.> How
would you recommend I go about it... currently trying 25% a week water
changes. <Go ahead with the reactor - let it run for a month or so an
test your calcium then.> Thanks Brian <Cheers, J -- >
Kalk and calcium reactor combo? OK! Bob, I am currently running
a 500 gallon reef tank with mostly SPS. Due to some algae outbreak I
have recently added Kalk through a night drip method. <OK... I agree
with the night dosing of Kalk... but wonder why the direct correlation
with algae outbreak and lack of it? Ultimately I agree that it may help
as high pH and the precip of Calcium phosphate by Kalk is indirectly
helpful... but a nuisance algae outbreak requires address of the
nutrients causing it (need for better nutrient export: cleaner source
water, better skimming/daily, etc)> It seems as if some of the
coralline has recently turned white. <the coralline bleaching can be
caused by many things... change in light from new lamps or a sudden use
of carbon, water change, exposure to light in air (water change left
algae high and dry under baking lights), skewed Ca/ALK dynamic (one high
one low)> Is this combo a long term problem in the works. <not at
all... Daniel Knop himself has suggested that Kalk can compliment a Knop
reactor. I agree... but Bob doesn't think it is necessary. The advantage
of using Kalk with the reactor is that Kalk will indirectly support
alkalinity while providing calcium. The reactor is mainly boosting ALK
and with the redundancy of both the system is likely to be more stable
if you test and tweak regularly/as necessary. Again, I see no problem.
Kalk has advantages over reactors too... besides saponification
(enhancing protein skimming)... Kalkwasser is self-cleansing: almost all
impurities in Kalk prec out in the high pH solution (like copper and
other metals)... however, the media in a calcium reactor simply
dissolves and bleeds those impurities into your system. Hence, a bad
media for the reactor can contribute to a nuisance algae bloom.>
Would appreciate any thoughts on the matter. Thanks Terry Using a
Knop reactor at all times and night drip of Kalk. <I use a Knop
reactor myself. Love it. Best regards, Anthony Calfo> Calcium
Reactor Gentlemen, I have a calcium reactor and have some basic
questions. The two components that you can change are the bubble count
and the outflow. What are the ramifications of each? Does a higher
bubble count increase alkalinity, a higher outflow or does both?
<Increasing the bubble count adds more CO2 to the reactor, lows the pH,
and increases the amount of material dissolved. Slowly the reactor
effluent increases the contact time of the water in the media and also
increases the amount of material dissolved.> Likewise reducing the
bubble count and outflow would have what effect? Second, if your sand
been becomes depleted and/or is lower in some areas, is it better to
replace it with additional live sand from a store or just gradually
build it up with the Caribbean Beach Play sand out of the bag? <It is
best to do both. You can build up the majority of the depth with dead,
dry sand, but it is beneficial to periodically add some more live sand
or detritivore/sand bed recharge kits to increase and diversify the
population of the critters.> Does it matter? Thanks in advance.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro> - Retrofit Calcium Reactor -
Dear Crew <Greetings Jim, Jason here...> I have a 130 Gallon reef
tank with various species of Stony Corals in it. These include :-
2 colonies of trumpet coral 1 Faviid 1 Euphyllia Halimeda
calcareous Caulerpa various leathers I will possibly be adding a
Trachyphylliid brain in the new year. I have managed the stock I have in
currently with calcium, and alkalinity supplements; but i am thinking of
adding a calcium reactor to remove the need to keep throwing in these
buffers as they are quite costly. <I'm sure if you added it up, you
could have purchased the reactor already.> I will be using an old
aqua-medic De-nitrifying unit as the main unit (a device in my opinion
that no-one should ever need, it leeched hydrogen sulphide into my tank
originally; no offence to aqua-medic or their products). First of all is
this retro fit ok? <I'm not familiar with this exact unit, but unless it
seals air-tight, I wouldn't do it.> My LFS says all that is required is
to buy a C02 dosing kit with a solenoid and bubble counter and fill it
with the required media. <A CO2 dosing kit? That's not going to provide
sufficient CO2 for a reactor - I think you would find yourself spending
as much on dosing kits as you were on two-part additives. Best to
purchase a CO2 tank and regulator to go along with that bubble counter.>
Second of all will it leech Hydrogen sulphide into the tank as it did
when it was a De-nitrifier? <It shouldn't unless you are using something
other than a calcium-based media in the reactor.> My water parameters
are calcium 380 alkalinity 8.2 PH 8.4 Lastly, do these units
require lots of maintenance? <Not really.> I know you have to shake the
media etc, and change it every 6 months. Is that about it? <For the most
part, yes... perhaps check the effluent valve/fitting to make sure your
drip rates stay constant - sometimes they slow down, which would affect
the dKH and pH of the effluent.> I've also read that to stop C02 leakage
into the tank you can get the effluent to drip into the outflow of the
skimmer is this correct? <That is correct, but it's better to determine
that you are even having the problem first. Most modern reactors,
adjusted correctly, consume most of the CO2 in the reaction process. Any
additional CO2 will most likely be blown out by skimmers and overflows.
It is typically not a concern, but if you are worried, just test first.>
cheers Jim Griffin <Cheers, J -- > Re calcium reactor
Dear all <Greetings, Jim, JasonC again.> Just as a reply to my
e-mail sent yesterday. The De-nitrifying unit by aqua-medic is totally
air tight and has a slow pump within it to circulate the media. The C02
doser I was on about is in-fact as you correctly state a gas bottle with
a solenoid and bubble counter. <Ah, good one on the CO2 bottle, although
I would just quickly point out that a penny saved is sometimes two
pennies spent later on. I'm still not completely sold on the idea of
using this unit as a calcium reactor - but still... good luck.> I
will proceed ahead with the conversion of the unit to a calcium reactor.
I currently have a very large profusion of purple calcareous algae (its
even plating in some places). Will the calcium reactor make this algae
growth go out of control? <Properly adjusted, it will certainly boost
their production.> Should i scrape it all off my tank back and sides?
<Only if it annoys you.> My dKH is currently 8.4, and I'm worried if
the reactor pushes this to 12 or 13 that the calcareous algae population
will explode. <Nothing to be afraid of, just may need to step up the
glass cleaning. No harm is done by coralline growth.> Also as an aside,
I was wondering if you could tell me whether my tank is over stocked,
the tank is 110 gallons (including displacement for live rock). The tank
has become more 'reef' in the last six months or so, with the addition
of corals (leathers and stonies). I have : 1 Hippo tang 1 Flame
angel 1 Midas blenny 1 Banggai cardinal 1 pyjama wrasse 1
sand sifter goby 1 maroon clown 1 tiny red eye goby (1 inch long)
I am thinking of removing the hippo tang (as he is large) and maybe the
wrasse. <Doesn't seem crowded to me...> cheers, Jim Griffin
<Cheers, J -- > Calc Reactor Q's Hello Jason, <And
hello to you.> I've read part of your FAQ about CalcReactor and it
was very helpful. <Ah good, glad it was useful for you.> Maybe I can ask
you some other question... When I want to buy e.g.. AquaMedic
CalcReactor should I buy any other equipment (ph Computer or Sth)? <And
perhaps a CO2 bottle and regulator. I don't think the pH "computer" or
controller is necessary but because you will need to measure pH quite a
bit at the onset, a digital pH probe will save you a lot of time.>
And the second one: are soft corals need Ca to live? <Not to the extent
that stony corals and clams do, but most all soft corals contain
sclerites, small slivers of calcium which help them form and maintain
their various shapes. Free calcium is needed to form these sclerites,
but certainly not in the quantities needed for stony corals.> Thank
for answer <You are welcome.> P.S. I saw that you have probably
Polish surname. I'm living in Poland and if you want you can answer me
in Polish. <I'm afraid that my Polish is non-existent, and many
generations removed. Sorry.> Bye, Piotr <Cheers, J -- >
Calcium Reactor affects on tank alk/Ca level Dear WetWeb Crew:
<Greetings, Kevin, JasonC here...>> Once again I need your experience
in answering a question I have; your previous responses to my past
questions have always resulted in success for me with my 2 yr. old 100
gallon reef tank. After several months of non-use, I have started to
again use my Korallin Kalkreactor with a 75%/25% blend of Korallith and
CaribSea reactor media; prior to restarting the reactor, I was using 2
tsp of Kalkwasser/1 gallon distilled water to maintain alkalinity and
calcium, but with the reactor running, I have decreased the amount of
Kalkwasser I added to the distilled water to 1 tsp. I also do a 10
gallon water change every week. After 2 weeks of running the reactor I
was hoping you can help me with some questions regarding the properties
I have measured. Tank water: Alkalinity - 4.2 meq or 11.8 dKH
Calcium 320 - 330 ppm Reactor effluent (drips into sump water over
a submerged Aqua C skimmer Rio 2500 pump): Alkalinity 13.8 meq or
38.7 dKH Calcium 480 490 ppm I mentioned that the reactor
effluent drips into the sump into water that is over my skimmers pump; I
do this to insure that any excess dissolved carbon dioxide is pulled
into the skimmer and vented off by the agitation. Tank pH is 8.3.
After always reading that tank level calcium needs to be maintained 400
ppm or higher, I was concerned that my calcium level in my tank was to
low, but since using the reactor my Tridacna derasa and squamosa are
showing increased shell growth, my just added Caulastrea coral is plump
and extends feeding tentacles at night, coralline algae is covering all
the rocks and has to removed from the sides and front tank glass
regularly, small polyp corals that had disappeared prior to the use of
the reactor have started to show themselves again and the fish continue
to be active and feeding aggressively (even my powder blue tang). The
only possibly negative change is my two Sarcophytons do not extend their
polyps as fully as they did prior to the reactor, but the main body
of each becomes fully erect once the lights come on in the morning and
both Sarcophytons are getting larger, taller, and plump. My question
(sorry for the long introduction!) is am I worrying to much about my
tanks calcium level vs. what is said in popular literature and in
reality, based on the reaction of the tank inhabitants, is everything in
good stasis. <I would say yes. If you had the opportunity to go and
measure dKH and calcium levels around the world, you would be hard
pressed to find the high numbers which people tell us we need. There is
balance somewhere in the middle as evidenced by the growth of your clams
and coralline algae. I know that high alkalinity: I calcium are mutually
exclusive, but why is the reactor effluent calcium level not affecting
the tank calcium level as much as the reactor effluent alkalinity level
is affecting the tank alkalinity level? <My thinking here is that the
effluent dKH is too high. You need this to be in the range of 15-ish.
Anything higher will make it difficult for the calcium to go into
solution, and more likely will precipitate out, forming deposits on the
effluent valve and elsewhere. Do recall that the enhanced alkalinity
brought about by the reactor will cause the calcium in your sandbed and
live rock to add to available calcium. I would try just a little less
CO2, and continue with the same drip rate. Ideally, you want the
effluent to be at about 15 dKH and the pH to be about 7.6> Is it that
the calcium level in the tank is being used up at a greater rate then
the alkalinity? <That is a factor, but I'd try lowering the dKH of the
effluent first - much easier to affect changes here.> Any input you
can supply on this would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Kevin <Cheers, J -- > - Calcium Reactor Question -
And hello to all those in the know! <Greetings, JasonC here...> I
haven't even set up the tank yet...135 gal. Obviously this will be a
reef tank and to start it off I will have 135lbs of rock in it to
cycle. From there I assume it will just be a mix of fish, and many
different corals. <Uhh... don't assume - plan.> Since I will be cycling
the tank with the rock, when should I be setting up the reactor?
<Depends... I wouldn't bother until you have stony corals or clams to
worry about - the fish don't really need calcium. I will reiterate,
because I think it's important - do formulate a plan for all this, don't
make assumptions unless you have money to throw away.> Do I set the
thing up when I set up the tank and run it while cycling the tank, wait
to cycle then hook it up? <Don't bother with it during the cycle - if
this is your first marine tank ever, then your hands will be full
getting the tank through the cycle.> And how do I go about setting the
rate? <Start by reading the directions that come with the reactor - they
are all different, but if that fails, read this article and use it as a
guide:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm > Do I just monitor
and let that be a guide assuming that I will only be using a small
amount since I will only have rock to start? After getting redeye from
surfing for info, I guess the consensus is to set up the reactor when
everything is in balance. <That is correct.> So, would it be fair to say
that soon after cycling I should fire up the reactor and continue on
from there? <I wouldn't bother until you've got something in the tank
that has high demands for calcium, and I would predict that is several
months away if you do it right.> Eventually I feel the tank will be
loaded with coral and will need the reactor. <Eventually, sure.> OR
should I just go with dosing from a jug o' calcium until I get more
corals in the tank? <Now you're thinking...> Man, that was a lot of
text for the simple answer I know is forthcoming! Thanks again
buds! <Cheers, J -- > - Alternatives to CO2 bottles -
Hello there, <Hi, JasonC here...> I was reading several sites that
describe a DIY CO2 injector (basically for freshwater plants). I was
wondering if it is possible to use this method in conjunction with a DIY
Ca Reactor. I know that a downside would be weekly addition of yeast in
the CO2 reactor to create CO2. But is this a possible alternative to
using an expensive CO2 tank??? <Not typically. The amount of CO2 needed
for a freshwater, planted tank is not as high as required for a CO2
reactor. Practically speaking, you can pick up a 10lb bottle of CO2 from
a local tank supply - when I lived in Western Massachusetts, it was
Miriam-Graves - for roughly $100, filled. You end up owning the tank and
refills are less than $10. I ran my reactors for almost a year and never
emptied the bottle. So really... over the long haul, they aren't that
expensive. I really wouldn't recommend a DIY project to supplant a CO2
bottle for a calcium reactor.> -Randy M. Yniguez, MA <Cheers, J --
> Calcium reactor and aquarium pH Dear Mr. Fenner, I
have gone through the FAQ's of wetwebmedia and could not find and answer
to my specific problem. <Okay... not surprising... many lifetimes
more material to be placed> I have a 75 gal reef with LPS, soft, and
a SPS coral and a few fish and other inverts. I installed a Korallin
1501 calcium reactor a few months ago. With a rate of 16 bubbles per
minute and a effluent rate of 40 drops/min my effluent pH is 6.35 and my
tank has stabilized with an alkalinity of 3.28-3.35 and calcium 420. My
pH has lowered however and runs at 8.15 during the day and reaches a low
of 7.89 at night (previously it was 8.3 during the day). I have noticed
that my tank substrate aragonite) has been dissolving and I have
recently replaced several pounds of it. I am not using any other
Ca/alkalinity additives. The animals seem to be doing well and growing.
<The most important criterion> Do I need to worry about the pH and
its swings? <Not much... would be nice, better if feeder stock melted
more readily... all else being equal... and pH was higher, in-tank
substrate not going away so quickly...> Should I try to push up my
alkalinity and if so how? Will increasing bubble & effluent rate further
depress the pH? Should I use some sort of additive? <I would first
try simple additions of baking soda... a teaspoon per ten gallons...
about once a week, blended in with system water, poured about the
surface> Want do you recommend for Ca reactor substrate? I am using
Super Calc Gold now and previously Korallith with similar results?
<Would keep experimenting... your reactor may improve by some
tweaking... are you able to show, accumulate some gas in the upper part
of the contact chamber? Perhaps by tilting the unit? Mmm, there are
better designs.> Thank you for your response. Your web site has been
extremely helpful for the last few years since I started reef keeping.
<Ah, glad to hear my efforts are of service. Bob Fenner> Sean
New Calcium Reactor Bob, <You reached Steven Pro today.> I
just set up a MARS DIY calcium reactor with a Ph controller. It's been
up for 48 hours and my KH has shot up to 15. 13 yesterday 15 today. The
calcium has always been low, less than 300, and does not seem to be
climbing like I was hoping it should/would. The controller starts the
CO2 at a Ph of 6.60, inside the reactor, and brings it down to 6.35
before shutting off. Will the calcium and KH come into line over time
with the reactor or should I give it some additive assistance? And, how
are the proper levels maintained with the reactor? <It is best to
have your alkalinity and calcium levels at the proper levels or in the
proper proportions to one another and then maintain them with the
calcium reactor.> What would you recommend for the settings on the
controller? The tank is 135 gal, lightly stocked with a drip rate of
2gph from the reactor. <You are going to have to play around with
the reactor settings and closely monitor the pH, calcium, and alkalinity
until you have everything properly adjusted. -Steven Pro> As always
any assistance is appreciated. Thanks, Jim Ph/alkalinity
Hello & (Thank You!) to the tag team answering Bobs fish tank e-mail
questions, many of us greatly appreciate this effort. <Appreciate
it... hehe, we're grateful that folks are tolerating it <smile>.
Seriously...thank you. Anthony> My question is about Ph. I started
running a calcium reactor about 8 weeks ago and had the effluent ph set
at 6.8 (after reading Bobs faq's on this topic). My tank ph always
hovered around 8.2, never below 8.0 or above 8.25. <indeed... a nice
piece of equipment and your pH needed to be a bit higher> I'm still
wondering, after reading the stored FAQs on this topic, how I can raise
the ph to be in a more acceptable level. My dKH now, after refilling the
reactor with Carib sea ARM and some old coral skeletons on top is 20 dKH
in the tank. <whoa!!! Please retest your alkalinity with another test
kit. You are in a very dire straight (no... not the band Dire Straights,
although now I have "Sultans of Swing" in my head which is not likely to
leave anytime soon) if this is even accurate! Natural seawater is 6-7
dKH, but most reefs fare better at 7-10 dKH (Sprung/Delbeek) and SPS
dominant tanks can even be a bit higher (towards 12 dKH). You are in
serious risk of precipitating free calcium from the severe imbalance of
carbonate in your system (like a reverse snowstorm from the common
crystalline carbonate precipitation from Kalkwasser abuse). If this
happens, you just might kill most of the living creatures in your tank
within 24 hours of a precipitous event. But do not make a knee jerk
reaction either... back off of the reactor (what is your bubble count on
the effluent?) and do some small but frequent water changes until you
get down towards 12 dKH. It isn't easy to maintain high free calcium
concurrently, but at nearly 400 ppm you have managed to do so and are at
great risk for it> I've slowed the drip rate from the reactor to
bring this high dKH down. <brother...this has to be monitored
closely from go for the first couple of weeks until you get it tweaked>
Calcium by the way is at 396. Before the Calc. reactor the DKH was
always around 14 but the ph was 8.0-8.2. <agreed...something had to
be done with the pH> The tank has been up and running 6 months and
the specs are; 110 gal with 30 gals in the sump. The main tank has about
115 lbs of live rock and about 2" of aragonite "sea floor" from Carib
sea. <see other posts or write back but a 2" substrate is
problematic in the long run... not deep enough for anoxic activity
(denitrification) but too deep for aerobic activity. The rule is 1/2
inch or less or three inches or more... never in between> In the sump
I have ~ 30 gals of water with ~ 15 lbs live rock, 20 lbs of a pre
packaged live sand and 3lbs of Red Gracilaria,) "Tang Heaven" algae.
<cool> I run a Turbo flotor 1000 Multi and inject ozone for an ORP in
the main tank of 340 - 400. <nice...and reasonable> I change 5
gals of water every week that is aged using RO water and Tropic Marin
salt mix. <hmmmm perhaps the source of your original low pH problems:
did you aerate the R/O water for 12-24 hours before buffering it (mixed
completely) and then later salting it. If not, you wasted buffers in the
salt mix by not off-gassing or neutralizing carbonic acid from R/O
water... and your 2" sand bed is hardly a significant buffer> I add
10mg of Seachem iodide every other day <very good> The livestock
in the tank is; 2 juvenile false perc clowns, 2 fire fish, 2 juvenile
Heniochus, 1 juvenile Hippo tang (2"), 1 yellow tang(2"), 1 small bubble
tip Anenome, 1 serpent star, 1 long spined urchin and 2 nice sized
corals; elegance and hammer. with 3 small frags of Acro. The water
parameters are: ammon=0, nitrite=0, nitrate is non detectable using
Fastest, 0 phosphates, dKH =20, Calcium= 396, Temp 77 degrees. <I'm
not a high temp fan... but you could come up a bit higher...78-82F> I
feel as though the alkalinity is sufficient enough to hold my ph to a
desired level but getting it the desired level is the problem for me.
<yes...above comments> I always feel I'm too generous with the food
but the fish go nuts, acting as though they are starving to death. Only
one looks thin, a "heiney" but not sickly. <honestly...feed small
portions freq and as much as you can without causing nuisance algae and
nitrates> the poly filter I have around the over flow pipe shows no
sign of excess food and is changed weekly. Sorry for the length of this
e-mail but I wanted to give you the full picture so you be well informed
before offering your much respected advice. Any help would be greatly
appreciated. <you have your work cut out for you, my friend. Anthony>
And Steve's Reply to the above question... Hello & (Thank You!)
to the tag team answering Bobs fish tank e-mail questions, many of us
greatly appreciate this effort. My question is about Ph. I started
running a calcium reactor about 8 weeks ago and had the effluent ph set
at 6.8 (after reading Bobs faq's on this topic). My tank ph always
hovered around 8.2, never below 8.0 or above 8.25. I'm still wondering,
after reading the stored FAQs on this topic, how I can raise the ph to
be in a more acceptable level. My dKH now, after refilling the reactor
with Carib sea ARM and some old coral skeletons on top is 20 dKH in the
tank. <This is pretty high, about twice as high as it should be.>
I've slowed the drip rate from the reactor to bring this high dKH down.
Calcium by the way is at 396. Before the Calc. reactor the DKH was
always around 14 but the ph was 8.0-8.2. The tank has been up and
running 6 months and the specs are; 110 gal with 30 gals in the sump.
The main tank has about 115 lbs of live rock and about 2" of aragonite
"sea floor" from Carib sea. In the sump I have ~ 30 gals of water with ~
15 lbs live rock, 20 lbs of a pre packaged live sand and 3lbs of Red
Gracilaria,) "Tang Heaven" algae. I run a Turbo flotor 1000 Multi and
inject ozone for an ORP in the main tank of 340 - 400. I change 5 gals
of water every week that is aged using RO water and Tropic Marin salt
mix. I add 10mg of Seachem iodide every other day The livestock in
the tank is; 2 juvenile false perc clowns, 2 fire fish, 2 juvenile
Heniochus, 1 juvenile Hippo tang (2"), 1 yellow tang(2"), 1 small bubble
tip Anenome, 1 serpent star, 1 long spined urchin and 2 nice sized
corals; elegance and hammer. with 3 small frags of Acro. The water
parameters are: ammon=0, nitrite=0, nitrate is non detectable using
Fastest, 0 phosphates, dKH =20, Calcium= 396, Temp 77 degrees. I feel
as though the alkalinity is sufficient enough to hold my ph to a desired
level but getting it the desired level is the problem for me. I
always feel I'm too generous with the food but the fish go nuts, acting
as though they are starving to death. Only one looks thin, a "heiney"
but not sickly. the poly filter I have around the over flow pipe shows
no sign of excess food and is changed weekly. Sorry for the length of
this e-mail but I wanted to give you the full picture so you be well
informed before offering your much respected advice. Any help would be
greatly appreciated. <It is not unusual for people to experience
lower pH levels when using calcium reactors due to excess carbon dioxide
in the display tank. Dial your reactor back to allow your alkalinity to
come down to an acceptable level. At the same time, add calcium only
products to keep your calcium level when it is. You are going to have to
monitor your conditions closely. Once you have both where you want them,
slowly increase the CO2 to maintain these levels. Hopefully, then you
will no longer have excess CO2 in your display. Also, look up the
excellent writings of Craig Bingman on the topics of calcium,
alkalinity, reactors, and Kalkwasser. -Steven Pro> Calcium
Reactor Supplementation? hey bob, still fiddling around with
my calc reactor; random, perhaps silly question. if ph only below 7 is
acidic, above 7 is basic, does that mean the effluent ph has to be below
7 to be dissolving the media in the calc reactor? <Mmm, actually
no... the pH only needs be below the pH of the substrate being
"melted"... However, I believe what you may be asking is best responded
to as: there is an ideal pH for rates of dissolution that doesn't waste
CO2, provides about right resultant pH, alkalinity, biomineral
content...> i have an AquaMedic, and would like to keep my effluent
closer to 7-7.1, so that my ph is higher than just 7.9-8.0. will i still
get substantial benefits at this effluent ph? <Yes... as you will
find> thanks. (FYI: I'm still using the hydrocarbonate included with
the unit). thanks! Javier <A good idea... I would use some
Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide) and calcium chloride in most
applications/types of set-ups as well. Bob Fenner> Calcium
Reactor Dear Bob & Co., In my quest for the ultimate 135 gal
Reef system I have decided to upgrade my hardware to include a calcium
reactor. However as we hobbyists know, cost can spin out of control. To
save money I bought an unused reactor that looks to be a K2R knock-off
(DIY). In a side by side comparison, physically they look exact. To
compliment the reactor I purchased a Pinpoint Ph controller, a M-3
regulator with solenoid, and a 5lb CO2 canister. My problem is that with
the purchase of the reactor, I am without manuals. After reading your
Q&A sections on CRs, I quickly learned that the CO2 bubble rate should
drop the PH of the water in the reactor to 6.8, while keeping a PH of
above 8.0 in the main tank...My question is with the use of the solenoid
and controller. Assuming I adjust my bubble rate to reach this 6.8 PH
value in the reactor, then put the monitor in the sump to measure the
display tank PH. Do I set the PH controller to shut off the solenoid
when the tank PH drops below 8? <Could, yes> Do I control tank PH
through the flow rate from the reactor? <In a manner of speaking,
yes... Please see below> I'm a little confused regarding parameters
and how to control them using the reactor, solenoid and PH controller.
Do I plug the solenoid into the high limit or low limit on the
controller? Can you please enlighten me? <You could. Best to go very
slow here... in establishing the use of your reactor and system
together. DO keep a log book of your initial chemical measures (esp. pH,
calcium and alkalinity), your adjustments to your drip rate, pH of
effluent, bubble-counter... And determine what's "about right" per your
gear, the reactant (media you're melting down), and biota. You will soon
know what works here. Bob Fenner> Sincerely, Dennis pH
and Lime Reactor, second chamber Hi WWM Crew I had problem of
low Ph, I had the same problem I been using K2R and added another
canister of K2R with CaribSea aragonite to hopefully increase my PH
to 8.1 but it has been 7.8-8.0, ideally the PH should be 8.2-8.4 am I
correct. <agreed or even a whisker higher> Recently I also been
adding Kalkwasser to the fresh water for evaporation, but has not
change, LFS recommends adding super DKH to increase PH, I'm afraid it
might messed up the Ca/Alk biomineralization. <partly agreed,
although I like using Kalkwasser with the reactor...many benefits to it>
I don't think I'm over injecting CO2 since it has been at 3psi, which
the manufacturer recommendation, effluent output is at 6.8 of PH, DKH is
3.5, Ca at 450 ppm, oxygen saturation at 420, could this be an
indication of not injecting enough co2 to increase PH, but DKH/Ca is
fine and don't want to make it worst. My SPS are flourishing fine.
Bi-weekly water change of 15%. <no worries my friend... a very simple
and incredibly effective solution lies in adding a second inline chamber
of Aragonitic material after the primary reactor. Does wonders for the
systems and will probably temper the weak pH you are experiencing. Not
hard to DIY either...many plans on the net abroad. Best regards,
Anthony> Calcium reactor output Dear Crew, The first
thing to do is thank you for such an informative site, I've spent many
hours getting good information. Here's my question, I run a 65 imperial
gallon reef tank, overflowing with Fijian live rock, good skimming with
metal halides and marine actinics, I have a good mixture of hard and
soft corals along with dwarf angels and 1 Flagfin all of the tank
readings are good, ph at 8.2 during photoperiod ammonia and nitrate are
0, phosphate at 0, I use ROWAphos in an external canister filter to
capture phosphates which then feeds through a UV sterilizer before going
into my chiller unit, water temp is constant at 78f, I use ozone in my
skimmer which is controlled to give Redox at 350 I also have a Knop
model c reactor which I fill with CaribSea arm media, (great stuff) I
changed the media about 6 weeks ago since then I can't get the dKH to go
above 7degrees (German) and the calcium is at 370, prior to this media
change I was running at dKH 11.2 and calcium was at 470, my co2 bubble
count is 13 a minute and effluent is at 6 drops per minute, the CaribSea
packing states that a reactor ph of 7.5 is sufficient whereas the Knop
site states that a reactor ph of 6.5 will give the best results, any
ideas guys? Many thanks Paul <Sounds like a very nice system... I
encourage you to either experiment with lowering the pH effluent to
about 6.8 or going back or switching reactor media to return to higher
dKH and calcium concentrations. I do want to admit to the fact that my
wife (Diana) distributes Knop Products in North America. Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor Questions Sorry to bother you again today,
promise my last question. <no worries> A friend of mine is
upgrading his Reef to a nice 180+. he is going with a calcium reactor,
and has peaked my interest. I read your site but have a question. He has
been told that even with a calcium reactor he will still need to drip
Kalkwasser. <arguable, but I personally agree that there is great
benefits to this> I thought the whole point of getting the reactor
was to be able to stop this time consuming practice. <nope... but
that is a common misconception among American aquarists. Europeans have
known/promoted Calc Reactors as Alkalinity boosters (carbonates) not
calcium boosters, although they do some of both. Even Daniel Knop of
Knop reactors has said that Kalkwasser supplementation is helpful to
reactors (among other things, it indirectly supports alkalinity while
providing free calcium). And Kalkwasser is not time-consuming at all..
you just haven't been shown an effective application. Please do review
my comments in the WWM archives on dosing with Kalk slurries (easy mix
with cold water, dosed at night in one fast shot at measures that spike
pH not more than .1-.2 This was detailed at length in my book as well
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bkcoralprop.htm> What are your thoughts. I
guess one more question should we go with single or dual chamber
reactors. Our feeling is the dual systems are more efficient. <The
duals are MUCH more efficient and I strongly recommend that second
chamber for pH stability among other things.> Thanks Larry <best
regards, Anthony Calfo> Calcium Reactor Valve Hi Bob,
<You got JasonC this time, howdy...> I have a K2R Calcium Reactor
that is currently being fed from my main display tank via gravity flow.
The effluent from the reactor flows into my sump, again, via gravity
flow through a 5/8" vinyl tube. <ok> The effluent recommendation
from the manufacturer is around 100 ml/minute for my 300 gallon display
tank. <A quick word here... these should both be adjusted for your
system - is different for everyone. Use the manufacturer's suggestions
as a baseline and test very frequently.> However, when I set the output
valve to give me this flow, it works for a few days and continues to
clog. The flow stops completely and requires that I open the valve fully
and then reset the flow rate every few days. <Not an uncommon problem at
all, so much so that I need to check the very same valve on this
morning's maintenance march.> Originally, I fed the calcium reactor
from a tee off of a small powerhead submerged at the top of my main
tank, but this small amount of extra water flow caused the water to go
right through the reactor (as opposed to being recirculated in the
reactor via the reactor's circ pump...) <That doesn't sound correct at
all - perhaps a design flaw in the K2R? Water shouldn't be able to flow
out any faster than permitted by the outflow valve. Everything in the
reactor should continue to recirculate.> Because of this, I needed to
adjust the CO2 such that the output effluent was around 6.5 in order to
get my alkalinity up to 400. This achieved the correct alkalinity but
caused excess CO2 in the main tank followed by hair and other algae
problems. <This can be addressed by letting the effluent run out into
your skimmer... the foam fractionation process will blow out the excess
CO2.> Is there a better way to plumb, place, adjust or feed the
calcium reactor that would cut down on output valve clogs and maintain
the correct flow rate? <Hmmm... is a good question. I've tried them all,
and I prefer a dedicated pump over a T-fitting in the return pump over a
siphon feed. That being said, I just received a new Knop reactor who's
tubing is set up specifically for a siphon. In addition, there are
problems with T-fittings regarding line pressure. So... I'd say that
each solution depends most on your installation and manufacturer. I'm
going to try the siphon on this new reactor because the manufacturer is
recommending that I do it this way. I would suggest you do the same
unless it just isn't working at all. As for the clogging of the effluent
valve, several online retailers carry an external pinch valve which will
accomplish the same task, but won't get clogged by accumulating salts.
You might want to give that a try.> Thanks! Charles T. Spyropulos
<Cheers, J -- > Re: Calcium Reactor Yes, I've read the
CalcFAQ on WWM.. . . quite a few times actually, quite long and looks to
be an oft discussed topic :-). <OK.> Anyhow, I'm familiar enough with
the concepts of the calc reactor. Just not sure how it would tie in with
a controller. <Ugg... Jim, this is discussed in that FAQ. Did you really
read it?> Aquadyne recommends that you set the calc reactor drip rates,
etc, and then set the controller to open the solenoid on the CO2 bottle
until the pH drops to 0.15 below your desired pH level. That would mean
setting the pH controller to about 8.05 (desired level is probably
around 8.2). <Sounds fine to me.> Now here are my issues/questions. I
know the effluent out of the reactor will be low in pH. What level
should that be in a dual reactor using ARM media ? <Each piece of
hardware is different, and I'd say it is what it is. Get the reactor
running and test - this is the best way to get the right answer.> They
recommend 7.5, most other media types are around 6.5-6.8. <Yes, but what
would be best for your tank?> I have a dual reactor column both with
ARM, effluent of one gets pumped through bottom to top of another
similar canister. <Is pretty standard.> Now that being the case, here
is the tricky part. If you set the controller as per mfg spec, that
means you dose until you drop your pH to 8.05. That's fine and dandy,
but will that ever stop the reactor if you have a high turbulent sump
and skimmer? <I would think so - why wouldn't it stop the reactor.> As
far as I understand, the CO2 actually lowers pH, but if you work it out
(similar to degassing it) of the water, the pH will rise back up again.
<What is more accurate is to say - if you stop adding CO2 the acid/base
reaction stops, the calcium carbonate [acid] becomes normal tank water
and the pH will rise up again. Most modern reef systems don't have
problems with excessive CO2... this is also covered in that same FAQ.>
And if the effluent is at 7.5 with the ARM reactor, it's close enough
that with heavy aeration, is the possibility that the pH may never rise
possible? <I think you misunderstand the nature of the effluent from the
reactor. It is calcium carbonate, an acid. This is only related to the
CO2 in that the CO2 was part of the acid/base reaction. Any CO2 in
excess of what is in the calcium carbonate effluent [CO2 would be
saturated at this point] and this excess of CO2 would pull down the
tank's pH further, and this is what is typically discussed in
association with calcium reactors. There are some very simple tests to
determine if this is a problem in your system - also covered in that
FAQ.> Will this open the possibility to inject too much calcium and
raise the alk level to levels that I may not want? <No, when the CO2
supply is shut off, the acid/base reaction stops and the effluent
becomes normal tank water.> Also, with the low point on the
controller, presumably the calc reactor doesn't run at all at night,
since the pH will probably slowly creep below that level, correct? <This
is quite possible, yes.> I've used a calcium reactor before, just not
with this media and controller. . . Thanks <Well then you know...
test 100 times - make one adjustment. Cheers, J -- > Jim
Calcium Reactor Ignore that last email. <too late.> I saw the
powered solenoid on the regulator a few minutes after that. <ok.>
Anyhow, now there are two methods to 'control' the reactor. Some
advocate measuring the affluent and controlling the solenoid to output a
ph of 6.5-6.7. <I would not recommend this method.> Others have the pH
probe in the sump and measure that way, but I'm not sure if you keep it
there, whether the reactor will actually work. <Yes it will... if you've
read my FAQ, then you know that the 'issue' here is that the low pH of
the effluent of the reactor can drag the pH of your tank down, and
anything below 8.2 pH isn't really desirable in the main display.> Isn't
it possible for the reactor to keep running and raise the alk quite
high, but the pH never rises to stop the reactor from running ? <Only if
you set it up incorrectly. You should be able to adjust the controller
so that it will shut off the CO2 solenoid when the pH in the main system
goes too low.> The main reason is that if you have a nice controller,
why in the world would you want the pH reading to be reading 6.5. You
would want it to report on the actual pH in the tank in the displays,
rather than the effluent ? <I'm not sure I follow...> Thanks, Jim
<Again, if you haven't, please read that URL... I do think it will
answer your questions. Cheers, J -- > Re: Calcium Reactor
<Greetings, Jim, I've also read your other email, but there was some
input I wanted to add here... hope you don't mind.> I just got a
calcium reactor. I also have a controller (ph/Octo). Anyhow, wondering
what the best way to operate this reactor is. <Well, besides following
the basic directions, you should always have calcium, alkalinity, and pH
tests available and then run the reactor to match your tank.> It looks
like the manufacturer just advises setting it and running it constantly.
<For most intents and purposes, this is how it should run. Is how I run
mine.> Is this better, or should I hook it into my controller? <This
will depend on how the reactor impacts the tank.> However, it looks like
the controller bases it on a CO2 valve discharge. <The controller will
'base' it on anything you want, where ever you put the probe.> If I do
it that way, I guess I have to get one of those, as you can't just run a
reactor pump to turn on when the ph values fall (The CO2 keeps
discharging even though the water doesn't, right ?). Any ideas?
<Plenty.> Thanks, Jim <I've got a URL I'd like you read... you will
find many answers there: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm
Cheers, J -- > Calcium Reactor (when to implement) Bob,
I have purchased a Calcium Reactor for a new reef tank that I'm setup
up. Being that I don't have facilities to cure my live rock I will be
curing it in the tank for a week or so then doing a 80%+ water change
adding live sand and starting the cycling of the tank. When would be the
best time for the implementation of the Reactor, should I have it up and
running during the curing of the rock, wait until after the rock has
cured and the cycling starts, or wait completely until the cycle has
completed and livestock is begun to be introduced. Thanks, Jason
>> If it were mine... right now. As soon as possible... ahead and
during the live rock cure... Bob Fenner Not cycling a
calcium reactor Hi bob, i hope you enjoyed your trip...i ordered
the Knop calcium reactor which should be here any day, how long till the
tanks water conditions are stable, do these reactors need to cycle like
regular filters?...will the cycle kill what i have in the tank
now?...when i finally buys corals, do they need to be acclimated like
fish do? >> No cycling involved... more like a chemical feeder...
Acclimating some of what the trade calls corals is a good idea... to
ascertain whether the specimens are healthy/going to make it... and
possibly to isolate unwanted "hitchhikers" that may inadvertently be
traveling with them. Bob Fenner Calcium Reactor Mr.
Fenner: Last month you suggest a DIY Calcium Reactor in your answers
about my questions involving Calcium Chloride and Carbonate. In the
net, OZ Reef, I found a "Recirculating Calcium Reactor" made by Chris
Paris for Reef Aquarium Information Depot. It seems good to me, but I
wish to know your opinion about the mentioned device. Thanks in
advance for your help Flávio Ribeiro <I am a very big fan of
calcium reactors and this design is very workable... definitely the
better route to go to assure alkaline reserve, pH stabilization,
biomineral availability... Kalkwasser, other additive systems don't even
come close in terms of efficacy and safety. Bob Fenner>
Starting a New Calcium Reactor Mr. Fenner I've installed a
home made calcium reactor in my system. It has a 2 litres capacity of
aragonite, a small Eheim circulation pump (300 l/h), and a plastic
needle valve to control the effluent water to the sump. The Co2 is food
grade, in a 6 litres appropriated tank, with a pressure regulator and a
small needle valve. <Sounds very nice> Initially I tuned the CR
like this: - CO2 - 40 bubbles/min. - Effluent - 40 ml/min. <Did
you measure the effluents pH? The size of bubbles of course is important
with the "count", the outflow sounds a bit high...> Tank initial
data, before the CR starts working: - PH - 8.1 and 8.5 at night -
dKH - 6 - Calcium - 340 mg/l After 2 days: In the tank: - PH
- 8.1 and 8.4 at night - DKH - 8 - Calcium - 360 In the
effluent: - PH - 7.3 <This should, could be a bit lower... less
flow and a lower pH... right about 6.5 would be ideal> - dKH - 30
With this values I add 40cc. Calcium Chloride in order to balance the
ratio between calcium and alkalinity. <One possibility... I wouldn't
do the calcium chloride adding as a regular routine though... should be
unnecessary with an established routine of melting the aragonite... with
which I would experiment as to source/type, size of material... variable
in composition, solubility, overall utility> Also I tuned the reactor
for 80 CO2 bubbles in order to achieve the recommended PH value less
than 7.0 : <And/or slow down the rate of flow/effluent...> In the
tank: - PH - 8.1 and 8.3 at night - dKH - 15 !!! <No worries
here> - Ca - 400 In the effluent: - PH - 6.8 <Ah, now that's
better> - dKH - 50 - Ca - 600 The corals and the fishes are
greater than ever. I don't see signs of stress. ( seven days) <Yes,
well done> Because the amount of "alkalinity" is so high I reduced
the CO2 rate for 20 bubbles and the effluent flow rate for 20 ml/min.,
and the result is now: PH - 7.4, Ca - 400 and KH - 15 in the effluent.
In the tank the PH is 8.2 and 8.5 at night, Calcium - 450 and dKH 13. I
am worried about the KH. <Don't be> Mr. Fenner, what do you think
about this values? The hardness is too high . I would expect some
raising but not so suddenly. How could I decrease the high hardiness
slowly? <Allow the system to re-center itself... this hardness is not
too high... a great deal of the mineral can/will be "used" by
photosynthates... not a worry> Could you give me some "soft starting
approximated values". <Hmm, you've already stated them yourself
here... Bob Fenner> Thank you for your attention and precious
advice Flávio Ribeiro PS : I notice today, that the calcium value
inside the reactor was 400 mg/l and in the tank was 450. Is there a
reason for that? <Likely the soluble portion of your reactant is
decreasing... time to switch it out for some new Aragonitic matter...
though there are solids in your contact chamber, their solubility is too
low for practical use now.> The amount of bubbling CO2 was
intentionally very low ( 10 bubbles) and the effluent about 30 ml/min.
Obrigado. <You're welcome my friend. Life to you. Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor Mr. Fenner: First thing, I want to thank you
for your answer about my new (DIY) calcium reactor. Secondly, tell
you that, with your advice, the reactor is functioning much better:
<Ah, good> Effluent : ( flow rate - 1.2 litres/hour and 130 CO2 small
bubbles/min) PH - 6.8 dKH - 45 Calcium - 700 mg/l Tank:
PH - min. 8.2, max. 8.3 dKH - 15 Calcium - 480 mg/l (too high?)
<A tad, but no problem... keep it under 500ppm> The problem was my
ignorance about the KH expected values. I thought that 12 is the maximum
level tolerated. I will continue testing the tank and effluent KH and PH
just to find the best tuning. <Yes, a sound plan> Finally, ask you
for a comment about my system. All the animals are great. Sometimes I
must deal with some microalgae in excess, mainly over the non-sand
bottom and on the rocks that aren't yet covered with coralline algae.
<Very typical, and not really a problem... just a nuisance> - Volume
- 420 Litres (diluted marine natural water). DI from a TWPurifier.
Salinity 1024. - 2 Aqua Medic protein skimmers (airstone) Weekly dark
liquid production : about 200 cm3 - About 1/3 of the aquarium volume
with live rock - About ¼ of the bottom with calcareous fine sand (1
cm) The other part is covered with coral gravel (1 cm) - Mechanical
filtration with medium and fine foam. - Activated Carbon monthly?
when I remember.... and only during 24 hours. HW U.V sterilizer -
Sump with 60 litres - Eheim 1060 pump - Lighting - 5 full spectrum
fluorescent. 1 actinic. 15 litres Refugium with little pieces of live
rock, calcareous white sand (10 cm) and a growing fast but yet small
Caulerpa taxifolia (not for sure). Little organisms are growing there,
copepods and tiny red-brown worms. This refugia is "working" about 3
weeks ago. One 15 watts full spectrum fluorescent is on 24 hours. The
water - flow is about 18 litres per hour <Would be nice to have a
larger sump...> - DIY Calcium reactor. - Livestock: 1 Zebrasoma
flavescens, 1 Zebrasoma xanthurus, 1 Zebrasoma veliferum, 1 Mandarin 1
clarkii, 1 Centropyge acanthops, 1 Centropyge loriculus, 1 Gramma
loreto, 2 Tridacna crocea, around 40 small Hermit crabs (Calcinus spp.
collected here in the island coast) , and 2 big ones (Clibanarius spp.)
, 2 Lysmata amboinensis, 1 red local "Atlantic" seastar? (similar to
Linckia), 1 Tubipora musica, 1 Catalaphyllia jardinei, 1 Clavularia
viridis, 2 Turbinaria sp., 2 Palythoa sp., 1 Sarcophyton sp., 1
Tubastrea faulkneri, Several Actinodiscus. Mr. Fenner, I admire very
much your work. You are doing a great job for this marvelous hobby and
for the nature protection. Your web site is full of precious information
about what we must not do or buy. Your explanations are clear and
simple, an exclusive attribute of people who have good knowledge. I hope
that your care lasts for long ! Happy New Year Flávio Ribeiro
<Thank you for your kind, encouraging words... mean much to me. Bob
Fenner> Re: Depleting Alkalinity & Calcium (a new reactor
proponent) Hi Bob, <Hello there> Thank you for your
suggestion regarding the consideration to procure a calcium reactor.
After intense research via internet, LFS, publications, and others
(i.e., Bob Fenner), I brought the Knop calcium reactor Model acan.A
The entire package cost $552 (Knop calcium reactor, media, CO2
regulator, CO2 canister, Pinpoint pH monitor, Rio 800, and shipping).
<A better purchase, perhaps never better made.> However, during my
research, a couple of sources indicated that the water parameters (pH,
calcium, alkalinity) should be ideal reef water quality parameters
before initiating the calcium reactor. A Otherwise the system will be
continuously off kilter (i.e., extremely high alkalinity but low calcium
initially....will continue to have high alkalinity and low calcium post
reactor). A Is this true? <Only to a degree... with a few weeks
time/use, the system will center itself with the reactors help> A
What is the best course of action since my system is not balance, as
stated in my previous correspondence (alkalinity = 2.8meg/L and calcium
= 320ppm)? Should I artificially increase the alkalinity and calcium
prior to initiation? A Or perform a significant water change (25%-30%)
without adding supplements and allow the calcium reactor to balance and
stabilize itself through time? Or a combination of both water change and
adding supplements/buffers to reef conditions? Thank you, Dan <If
it were me, I'd simply rig the new system up and fire it over... You
will see. No problems/worries. Bob Fenner> Calcium Reactor
Hello Bob, <Hi there> I am still new to running my calcium
reactor, a Knop model C with an UltraLife regulator. <A nice combo.>
At this time I only use a PH monitor and I try to keep it running with
PH 6.5 and an effluent at 2-3 gals per min. <Hmm, this is a bit
low... would shoot/select for an effluent pH of about 6.8...>
Although I notice that during the week the regulator constantly jumps up
and down @ the PSI which affects the LPM gauge on the left side, causing
my effluent PH to jump or drop low leaving air pockets of CO2 in the
reactor even though I have a solenoid valve on it. Is this normal for
reactors or do I have a bad regulator? <Hmm, no... more a "design
defect"... that I've mentioned to Daniel (Knop) on more than one
occasion...> Or is this a simple problem that can be fixed by
purchasing a PH controller? <Hmm, well... possibly... or tweaking
flow rate... for now, please just try the not-so-low pH setting... >
Also if I should purchase a controller which do you find to be best to
work with, Accu-Max Controllers or PinPoint Controllers. As always thank
you very much for your input of knowledge. <The latter...> Rob
<You're welcome my friend. Bob Fenner> Calcium Reactor
Hello there Bob, I have been reading your section on calcium
reactors, and notice you say to keep the effluent PH at 6.8. Although
the instructions I received with my Knop calcium reactor state to keep
an effluent PH between 6.3-6.5 ideally 6.5. I have a mixed reef of clams
soft and hard corals with fish. What should I keep my effluent PH. Also
what is the difference in benefits/outcome of keeping it at 6.3-6.5
rather than 6.8? will I still get lots of coralline? Thanks in
advance, Kathy <A very good question... this preference, suggestion
to keep the effluent of these types of recirculated/ing carbon dioxide
infusion type reactors is a matter of "safety" as well as expediency...
strictly speaking, most folks are well and far better off dealing with a
higher effluent pH... enough biomineral and alkalinity make it into
their systems for all intents and purposes... and have much less cost
(in terms of CO2) and likelihood of problems (algae, pH fluctuations...)
at this setting. Do know Daniel Knop of Germany and he is a fine person
and engineer... but this is my long-standing opinion/practice. Thank you
for asking. Bob Fenner> Ca Reactor I finally seem to
have the Ca reactor running well. The needle valve that came on the
regulator apparently was damaged in shipment and I had a terrible time
getting the bubble rate stabilized--it took almost 2 days. <The
needle valve is the single most important piece of gear on these
units... have seen ones made overseas that sell for a couple of hundred
dollars US...> I'm now running about 30-40 bubbles/min. Effluent pH
in the reactor is 6.68, and it's about 6.78 at the point where it's
dripping in. Ca level in the effluent is 520 ppm and dKH in the effluent
is 19 (I checked these last night several hours after I got the CO2
running again--the needle valve had "shut off" by itself yesterday while
I was at work so the reactor really wasn't working until last night--so
these numbers will probably increase as well). It looks like the Ca
level increased about 20 ppm overnight, but it's still around 310. I'm
dripping about 90-100 drops of effluent per minute into the system.
<Steady on> Should I supplement at this point with something that
won't effect a downward pH to get the Ca level up, or just wait? (I know
patience is a virtue in this hobby.) The system pH this morning was
7.92. <Just be patient for a few days here> Yesterday morning it
was 7.96 (but the CO2 wasn't running Wednesday night due to the bad
needle valve). Last night the system pH was 8.06 just before lights out.
Will these numbers stabilize/increase as Ca and dKH increase over the
next few days? <Should> If system pH is less than 8.06 tonight
(suggesting a downward pH trend), should I decrease the effluent drip
rate? <No...> Once this is all taking care of itself, it's going
to be great--but still a few days to go, it seems. Thanks for your
insights once again. <Have I recently suggested you seek other input
as well? Am fearful that you may be not getting enough points of view...
do you participate in the "reef" listservs? You would benefit and in
turn help others by doing so... Bob Fenner> Re: Ca Level
I'm getting a little frustrated with the Ca problem (as I'm sure many
are). I finally got the Ca reactor up last night. I checked it today--pH
in effluent was 6.65--a little low, I know, but I'm waiting for a new
needle valve and can't adjust the bubble rate (about 75/min) below that
at the moment. This morning, effluent had Ca of 520 ppm and was 19-20
dKH. I was dripping about 100 drops of effluent/min all day today. I
checked Ca level this morning, and it was around 310 or so--it seemed to
have increased 20-30 ppm overnight. However, when I got home from work,
Ca was at 280! I increased the effluent rate, and added some more of the
Tropic-Marin (and tomorrow I need to clean the prefilters again. . .).
When I got home a few hours later, the Ca was still at 280. The TM
product dosage I used should have raised calc by 20-30 ppm or so, but it
hasn't budged. Alk today was at 3 meq/L, down slightly from yesterday's
reading of 3.5 as well. I'm thinking now, based on my reading on WWM,
that I might need to "jump start" this recovery process with Kalkwasser
tomorrow night, as it seems something is "eating up" the calc that's
going in there and the levels aren't increasing. My LPS are clearly
suffering. Is there any product that I can use to rapidly raise the Ca
level without causing major pH or other problems? <Ah... wish I had
the time to read through our corr. here... you are very likely actually
the cause of the "diminishing returns" of getting (actually keeping)
biomineral and alkalinity in your water/system... Very hard to recall
what products you used to use... but your pH is not low... and won't
get, stay there if you don't drop too much, too soon the effluent of the
calcium reactor into it... and all should stabilize in a couple of
weeks... be very careful in placing other sources of biominerals,
carbonates, bicarbonates... they are negatively interacting...> The
pH is a little low tonight--it was at 8.02 when I got home from work.
After increasing the calc reactor effluent flow and adding the TM
Bio-Calcium, it dropped to 7.92 in a matter of hours. Is Kalkwasser for
a few nights, in conjunction with the calc reactor, the answer here?
<No easy, thorough way to answer this here... the overall answer is
No... you will likely make alkalinity limiting...> It should help to
raise pH and calc levels, and perhaps burn out whatever is keeping my
calc level down, if it's being kept down by some chemical interaction in
the water. <It would be more beneficial, safer, and in the long term
over-all satisfying to enact some thorough gravel vacuuming using
pre-made seawater... to remove a bunch of these reactants from that
area...> I'm at a loss here--the Ca level has been plummeting, and
nothing seems to be helping. I may also do a partial water change
tomorrow to see if that will help--I have a supply of 3-week old
premixed water I can use if necessary. <Ahh, good! Now we're getting
somewhere.> I will help myself if I just know what is going on here!
Thanks for your kind counsel once again. <Clarity is pleasurable, and
you are right on the edge of such self-discovery. Bob Fenner>
For the Record (a new, well-upcoming calcium reactor convert)
Calc reactor is up and running. Current water parameters: Ca 320, Alk
3.5, pH 7.94. Ca reactor is filled with 12 lbs of CaribSea ARM, 10 CO2
bubbles/min. <Hmm, only ten...> Recirculating system. Effluent pH
is 7.15 for now--but not sure where it will stabilize over the next few
days. I'm dripping about 60 drops/minute into the system. (Based on my
recent experience, the livestock has been utilizing about 40 ppm/day of
Ca--so hopefully these parameters will be sufficient to meet the daily
demand and also build the residual level back up, while allowing pH to
stabilize and rise as well. . .) <Hopefully> Also for the
record--I haven't really had a good amount of coralline algae--still get
diatoms and have a fair amount of green microalgae on the live rock.
I'll take a "before" picture of the tank tomorrow and an "after" in a
month or so and send them to you for comparison to do with as you wish.
<Not surprising... given your stated biomineral and alkalinity
levels...> All for now! <Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Calcium
Reactor Hi Bob, Hope all is well. I have adjusted my Knop C
calcium reactor to an effluent PH of 6.8 as you advised, and all good. I
have noticed a lot of green hair algae, do you think this is from when
my effluent PH was running 6.3-6.5? <Perhaps> Also will the
coralline algae still rapidly grow/spread, now running PH at 6.8?
<Sure... as long as there is sufficient biomineral (mainly calcium, but
about three times as much magnesium...) and sufficient alkalinity, and
steady pH, a paucity of competitors, predators...> I also have been
having a problem every few days with clogging on the drip regulator that
Knop supplied for the effluent rate. Not sure if you have seen this,
it's basically a orange screw type valve (the tighter it's screwed in
the less fluid comes out and vise versa). If you know of any fixes for
this or something I could purchase/make that would upgrade this valve or
replace it, please share. <Do know of this design defect... my best
advice is to remove it periodically and soak in white vinegar... this
dilute, "slow" organic acid (acetic) will digest the alkaline clogging
materials safely.> Many thanks in advance, Rob <You're welcome.
Bob Fenner> Calcium/Ca Reactor Hello Mr. Fenner, How
are you? I am extremely glad I found you website, it is extremely
helpful/insightful. I hope you can help me with my continuous struggles
regarding calcium. Before describing my tribulations with calcium, I
want to give you a brief background about my 90gallon reef aquarium.
<Okay> I purchased a Marine Technical Concepts (MTC) calcium reactor
3 weeks ago to help combat/mend my low calcium level. Prior to MTC
installation, my water parameters are as follows: calcium = 320ppm,
alkalinity = 2.97meq/L or 8.3dKH, magnesium = 1320ppm, and pH = 8.2.
<Actually, all good values...> Since the deployment of the MTC
reactor, the water/operation parameters are: system pH = 8.22,
effluent pH = 6.95, alkalinity = 5.03meq/L or 14.1dKH, system calcium =
320ppm, effluent calcium = 420ppm, bubbles/minute = 54, output effluent
= 25 ml/minute, and magnesium = 1350ppm. I use Carib Sea Florida Crush
Coral Geomarine Formula for the reactor (recommended by the
manufacturer). <Yes> The only significant change in water
parameter is dKH. My reason to purchase a Ca reactor was to increase
calcium, however, it is a still a struggle and have not been rectify
(yet?)! I contacted/asked the owner and designer of MTC regarding the
high dKH and low calcium level, and they both informed me that the
proper usage of the reactor is to measure effluent output flow and dKH,
thus, my water/operation parameters are fine. <I do agree with this>
Carbonate hardness is what I should be concern with, and calcium testing
is not necessary (they (MTC) do not test calcium)! I questioned their
statement; I thought I purchased a Ca reactor and not a KH reactor?!
<I understand both your points of view... and yes, you do "need" and
want calcium, perhaps more ppm than what you're recording (320)...>
This leads me to seek a second opinion. I want to hear/see your
thoughts/insights/comments about my current situation. Is it true of
what the folks at MTC said? Is there an imbalance of biominerals, if so,
how could I correct it? <A few possibilities... The first and
foremost is to try another source of material to meltdown (look at other
CaribSea products here... for consistency's sake...) and/or next...
lowering the pH of the effluent to about 6.8... via slowing down the
flow of water more than increasing CO2 input... and then we'll chat
after this... It may well be worthwhile in your circumstances to "goose"
the calcium (with calcium chloride, perhaps Kalk, perhaps just CaCO3
powder... )> Is it possible that the high dKH is precipitating
calcium in my water? <Yes!> What could I do to increase calcium?
I am concern about the constant low calcium available for my corals,
although they appear to be happy/healthy at this time. <Yes... read
what you have written... don't be/come obsessed with mere numbers of
measures... the health of your livestock is the grand arbiter of all you
do with your system... and 320 is not a low number for calcium in an up
and going system as yours...> Thank you in advance for your time and
effort. Regards, John <And thank you for your clear, concerned
expression. Bob Fenner> Calcium reactors and Kalkwasser
Bob, My calcium reactor recently broke and I have ordered a new one.
In an effort to keep the dKH/ ca rate up I have been adding Kalkwasser
to my 300 gallon reef tank. So far I am adding a gallon and a half a day
just to keep the dKH at 10. <I've got to start selling chemicals in
the trade...> I have however noticed a huge growth spurt in my SPS
corals over the last week. Here is the question... Is there any
benefit to turning the calcium reactor off every quarter or so and using
a Kalkwasser drip for a week or two. Or can I add Kalkwasser once a week
or so while using the ca reactor. <Both... and add a bit of calcium
chloride when doing this switch over addition> I have asked others
and no one can give me an answer. My reef buddy from California has
asked you many questions and swears by your advice. So I thought you
could give me the straight scoop on Kalkwasser additions while using a
reactor at the same time. <Many folks do this... especially in the
"forced" culture business side> Thanks for your help and for all the
interesting/helpful tips. Sincerely, Neil <Be chatting my
friend. Bob Fenner> Calcium Reactor questions Hello Bob!
Thanks for you WetWebMedia site; the information has been invaluable and
I have recommended it to everyone I know who is planning or currently
has an aquarium (sorry if it results in too much e-mail!) <Ah, thank
you, no problem> Anyway, I have just installed a Korallin Kalkreactor
on my 100 gallon tank and the media I am using is Super Calc Gold. The
reactor has been running for approximately 1 week. The CO2 rate is 25
bubbles/minute, at a drip rate of 60/minute. The effluent properties are
pH = 6.6 to 6.8, Ca = 440 ppm, Alkalinity = 13 meq/l. The tank water
properties are temperature 80 to 82 F, pH of 8.2, alkalinity = 3.4
meq/l, but the Ca is only at 250 ppm. This is actually an improvement,
as before the reactor, I was constantly fighting with additives to get
the calcium above 230 ppm. <No worries... Give this program, gear
time> The tank is approximately 4 months old. The invertebrate
animals that I have in the tanks are three hard coral (Mycedium,
Euphyllia, and Caulastrea), several soft corals (Sarcophyton, mushrooms,
and yellow polyps), assorted snails/hermit crabs/Mithrax crabs, 2
abalones, a brittle star, and one Tridacna derasa clam. All the live
rocks are covered with purple coralline algae, as are areas of the
aragonite substrate. The back glass of the aquarium is gradually being
covered with deep pink and blue coralline algae, the color depending on
the depth and what light intensity the area sees. Since installing the
reactor, the Euphyllia polyps appear to be opened longer and more full,
whereas the Caulastrea appears, as my wife said, plumper and also
fuller. All the soft corals are also looking bigger, with the mushrooms
spreading out more, the Sarcophyton having small buds appear at its
base, and the polyps being longer and staying open and out even when the
lights go out. The Tridacna is also exposing more of his mantle. So all
the invertebrate life looks very healthy. <Good> My question is
will the reactor eventually raise the tank calcium level to close what
the effluent is reading? <Yes, though the corallines especially are
scavenging biomineral and alkalinity as it's produced...> Or will the
coral and other life calcium usage exceed the amount/rate that the
reactor is adding, that I should keep adding supplements to speed up the
calcium increase to where the reactor can maintain the desired level?
<Not likely necessary. I wouldn't at this point> I currently add
Salifert liquid Coral Calcium daily, Kent Tech-M magnesium weekly, and
Seachem Reef Builder to the make-up distilled water. Also, am I
focusing to much on the what the chemical testing is telling me and
should pay more attention to what the tanks inhabitants are doing?
<The latter, always> Thanks in advance for any recommendations or
suggestions! Kevin <Chat with you soon my friend. Bob Fenner>
Calcium reactors << Jason C here, giving Bob a day off, so to
speak. >> Bob, Have been reading your page for a while and has helped
me some. My questions is how to you control your ph when a calcium
reactor is running? I have a ph controller but don't really know what
solution would be best for raising ph. I am assuming Kalkwasser but I
wanted your feedback. Thank you - Adam Jackson << depending on the
brand of pH controller, you may have the ability to turn things on and
off, depending on the pH you choose. You would use this feature to
slowly meter-in the effluent from the CA Reactor, then at an appropriate
pH, turn off the circulation pump so that the effluent stops its flow
into the tank. If your pH device is just a monitor, then perhaps it
would be safest to run the CA Reactor over night, when the tank pH is
naturally low already. As far as Kalkwasser goes, a CA Reactor is a
high-tech source of Kalkwasser, so there is no need for you to dose it
in addition to the CA Reactor. I hope that is helpful - J-- >>
|
|