Balancing Calcium and Alkalinity 5/21/05
Believe it or not, I've actually read that article several times.. I think what you're trying to say is as long as you have a balance between Alkalinity and calcium, it shouldn't be a problem. So in my situation, I'm going to have to slowly drop Alkalinity to the desired range (8-12dKH), and then maintain both calcium and alkalinity, right?
<Yes, true... all changes should be slow. Yet I wonder/fear you may engage in a see-saw regime of supplementation that many folks do when trying to cure an imbalance. In most cases (this one indeed) I usually recommend an even-keeled sea salt like Instant Ocean and large water changes several over a couple weeks) to dilute the imbalance and return you to par. kindly, Anthony>

ppm or dKH?/Ph update
Well, my Ph didn't rise a bit after aerating, still 7.8,..UGH! Even my Alk seems to have fallen a bit from 11dkh to 9. I don't get it?
<no worries... this actually makes things easier for us. Your Ca is high and does not need any heavier Kalkwasser. You will continue to test and dose Kalk to stay in the 400ppm range. Now with your ALK and pH depressed... they indicate the need for simple buffers. Baking soda will be fine here. Use small amounts and be patient (too fast dosing can precipitate out and get really ugly). This sodium bicarbonate will raise your pH and Alkalinity. If you find it easier... buy and use a two part supplement (but do a water change or to balance Ca and Alk before starting dose... you must begin in balance to continue in balance). Or perhaps a Calcium reactor is in the plans down the road for you. Both are easier than the Kalk and buffer seesaw... but they are a lot more expensive too. Kalk also has many benefits over all. The lack of a pH rise after aeration is a good sign>
Maybe I should attach airline to another of the powerheads... it doesn't do much for the aesthetics of the tank however.
<to be specific, dear... my recommendation was to aerate a glass of water. Aerating the whole tank is too easily influenced by other factors (DOC levels, bio-load, feeding etc). I suspect that aerating the sample glass will not be much different though (no change). Still.. to be sure, run that test. The venturis are a mess on the tank. Too many bubbles, irritates coral and some fishes, causes salt creep. Again, my recommendation for aeration of we needed it was a better skimmer (more oxygenation here) or an extra airstone in the sump>
I hope to find a better way the increase circulation once
we figure out this problem. Maybe I feed too much??
<feeding does burden this process... but I'm inclined to feed heavy myself and compensate with good water changes and aggressive skimming, carbon, etc>
About every other day, my 3 clowns, 5 assorted shrimps, 3 dominos, and 3 (?) fish all enjoy fresh from the beach chopped assorted snails, you know, the type that wash ashore stuck to the rocks.
<very dangerous to feed in the long run. Disease and metal contamination in the flesh. Unless you live on a rural Australian coastline, you simply reside too near (big picture... 100 miles above and below your coast) industry and people. The first several miles of water on this and most any beach are off limits in my book for water or food collection. The diseases you could bring your fish alone are scary. At least freeze the snails first for several weeks or more to kill off some possibilities. Still not fool proof>
Then on and off I give them a bit of flake Marine food
and Spirulina algae. Would you be happy on this diet??
<it is a very limited diet. Lacks fresh vitamins and fatty acids. Keep your flake and Spirulina, freeze the snails, add frozen Mysis shrimp, gammarus shrimp and or plankton/krill (frozen), and perhaps a quality pelleted food (perhaps in stead of the flakes). Vibra Gro ranks high for me. Nori seaweed for tangs and angels too (dried)>
Oh yes, 75 gallon tank. Thanks my friends!! Pam
<best regards, Anthony>

Alkalinity and pH
I have a quick question about alkalinity. Last Wednesday I brought home an Elegant Coral and a Open Brain Coral.
<both are placed on the sand bottom right? They must to survive... see archives here at WWM>
By the weekend the Elegant Coral had developed brown jelly disease and infected the open brain above it.
<above it suggests placement of at least on rock. Hmmm... free-living SPS corals become stressed and abraded when polyps cycles cause wounds and tears on live rock... leading to infection. May not have been your problem... could have been shipping/handling if they were new at LFS. Still... you sound like a new aquarist. Do consider that quarantine is necessary for all new fishes and corals (4 weeks in a separate tank). This prevent s the spread of such infection s to your whole tanks, saves lives and has many other benefits. Please visit the wetwebmedia archives on this topic as well. Also... buy a good reference book and read it to guide your purchases before bringing livestock home my friend>
I immediately sucked the disease off them and removed them from the tank. I fresh water dipped them and tried them again. Of course too late, the next day I removed them completely.
<indeed... it is highly contagious/virulent. Best treated in QT for any chance of survival and more so to protect the rest of the tank>
Since then (Sunday) I have been fighting a low PH.
<not caused by the corals of course... if anything, the waning pH of the system stressed the corals and was a catalyst>
About 7.8.
<Doh!>
I have been adding Kent PH Buffer. Today it is about 7.9.
The thing that scares me the most is my alkalinity is 16.32.
<holy cow!>
I checked twice yesterday which was over 18 and today it is 16.32 (DKH). What can I do to lower this and raise the PH at the same time?  
<dilution is the solution to pollution: water changes. And if your Ca is low (under 375ppm here), use Kalkwasser to raise pH without raising Alk directly>
I haven't been adding any 2 part calcium additives at all. Just the Tropic Marin Calcium.
<sounds like things have gotten out of kilter. Several large water changes and then resume with Kalk/buffer or 2-part mix (but shake very well before every dose... critical!)>
Thanks, Ian Roff
<best regards, Anthony>

Ca/Alk
This is like the never ending question, sorry, but I am learning so much from this conversation.
<indeed the purpose my friend>
The reason for using the Seachem Reef Calcium and SeaBuffer is to maintain proper Ca & ALK levels.  
<agreed on premise and half on application. The SeaBuffer is fine and necessary for buffers (carbonates). The Reef Calcium however does not maintain readily USABLE/assimilated calcium for coral growth. Its a great product for corallines, but not recommended for almost any other calcifying reef animal no matter what your test kit reading says. This unfortunate reality is time tested. Calcium gluconate is a supplement to Kalkwasser and for growing corallines but should not be used as a primary vehicle for Ca maintenance>
What I didn't think to tell you was I have been adding Sea-Lab #28 blocks since week one.
<OK... but here you have a problem with accumulating Chloride ions. Please, my friend... if you do not delve deeper into the chemistry of it (no fun anyway for most), trust me: The two best ways to provide calcium for your tank are Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide... or calcium oxide) or a calcium reactor. Liquid or dry calcium chloride has significant issues and pitfalls with proper use, and calcium gluconate is not useful too much beyond corallines>
According to their booklet this includes Calcium, Strontium and all trace elements and in fact further state that Ca is 400.0 ppm.
<not as a long term solution in my opinion. A good product for small tanks with large water change schedules. Else, Kalkwasser for bigger aquaria (over 40 gallons)>>
Am I good with this product? If not, should I use Seachem along with Sea-LAB #28 already added?
<neither... Kalk and SeaBuffer if not using a calcium reactor>
As to ALK, I also have (not used in this tank yet) Sea-LAB #14pH which controls Alkalinity. Would this product work as well?
<possibly... little to go wrong here. I do like most SeaChem's products very much. A fine company>
I have no problem getting the product you suggested, I'm sure you have great experience using these and feel confident is suggesting them and I appreciate the advice. Just wondering if I should/could use what I have on hand?
<target the ingredients used and not the brands. Calcium chloride and calcium gluconate are deal breakers in any form by me>
As always "Thank You" from the bottom of my fish tank :-) Dave
<cool... I have never been thanked from the level of detritus before... humbling <G>. Best regards, Anthony>

Calcium/Alkalinity
More Follow up: Let me start our with a great big "Thank You" for all the help.
<Anthony Calfo with the follow up... and you are welcome, my friend>
With valuable resources like this site and my "Recently Ordered" copy of CMA (can't wait to get it). There's no doubt that "this time" my tank will be a success.
As a follow up to my last questions;
I was (no longer) adding Sea-Lab #14 and #28 (without testing for Ca, just following directions and watching pH. I now know this was foolish of me.) and suspect this is the cause for my very high Ca and maybe my red slime out break. Along with my (Ca) test kit I have purchased the SeaChem Reef Calcium as Anthony suggested, but am waiting for Ca to return to normal levels before beginning this product.
<agreed... and a second Ca test kit wouldn't be a terrible idea either for comparison>
The Ca rate is dropping. From 1080 this past Sunday to 675 today.
My concern is for my Domino Damsel and the dropping pH. Down to 7.7 from 8.3.
<agree... dangerously low/fast>
Yesterday I started adding Baking Soda to my 55g tank to attempt to stabilize the pH. I have searched the FAQ's and web, but failed to find the recommended dosage.
<there is not amount per tank/gallonage as everyone DOC and acid levels vary by system. The dosage of baking soda is limited by how fast a given amount makes your pH rise. Just start slow and be sure to use no more than will raise your pH .2 in one day><<Mmm, would have suggested measuring alkalinity... using this as a basis of determining "alkaline demand". RMF>>
I'm currently adding 1 1/2 tsp per day. (Based on the dosage of Part B on the Sea-Lab #14, figuring it was also baking soda)
Am I on the right track here?
<the amount is reasonable... but simply test your pH an hour later to verify>
Thank you for helping
Dave
<best regards, Anthony>

High Calcium / Low Alk
Hi guys, My pH is stable at 8.3, but my alkalinity is 4.5 and my calcium is over 520!  
<wow... please immediately stop using additives and do several large water changes to correct the imbalance. You are in danger of a crystalline (and catastrophic) precipitation>
What is the best way to remedy this situation.  
<large gentle water changes>
I'm currently using the EVS B-ionic system; should I just use the Alkalinity component for a few days and lay off the Calcium?
<nope... the condition got this way because you either added the new 2-part to the tank when it was not balanced (you must be balanced to continue with balance)... OR... (my guess) you have been using the calcium part without shaking it vigorously before every single dose. These products separate in the bottle (pour some in a clear graduated cylinder and see overnight the separation of clears). After some time this has caused the imbalance>
Thanks again, Adam
Have you read through our archives including here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
Best regards, Anthony>

Re: High Calcium / Low Alk
Thanks Anthony, I have more information now.  OK, yesterday (before I got your email) half of my fish were breathing very heavily and very quickly, and were lethargic.  My blue damsel (who is the first fish added to my tank after cycling over 6 years ago) looked like he was dying for sure.  He was lying on the sand, and occasionally falling on his side.  As it turns out I also noticed that my skimmer wasn't functioning.  So, I aggressively skimmed
for the past 24 hours, pulling out about 2 gallons of nasty dark yellow stuff, and performed a 20 % water change.  I also added fresh PHOSGUARD and carbon.  
<excellent thinking and recovery strategy. Kudos>
The blue damsel has come back to life!!!  Acting like himself again!!  So have the rest of the fish.
Side question: when I began skimming, it was out of whack for the first two hours (over-foaming).  Is this related to any of what we are discussing? Have any theories?
<too many possibilities for why... skimmate production is influenced by the integrity of the proteinaceous sheen at the surface, barometric pressure (bubble size), colloidal matter in the skimmer neck (helps climbing bubbles) and the list goes on>
I now realize that my alk was never low at 4.5 meq/L, but I do understand the risks associate with having calcium and alk so high.  
<whoa! My fault... I thought you meant 4.5 dKH (which would be scary low)... as meg/l go... it is fine and on the high end>
My understanding is that my alk level is fine, but my calcium level needs to be more like 400-450.  Would this be safe, and considered 'in balance'?
<agreed>
>One last question that has been driving me crazy:  I just ordered an RO/DI -
it will be here within a week.  What additive do you use to
prepare/reconstitute (match your pH etc) for RO/DI water?  
<tons of info on this topic in the archives of wetwebmedia.com  The gist of it is to aerate your water first... then buffer it slightly... mix well... then salt (a 36 hr or longer process). No need to remineralize the purified water to high alk... just med tap water levels is fine>
What effect, if any would this have on the balance we are discussing above.
<it will be negative if carbonate buffer/solutions are abuse (excess)>
Thanks Anthony,  you saved me from a potential crash.  My fish thank you also. Adam
<our great pleasure. Anthony>

How Much Time Does My Tank Have?
Hey there Crew,
<dude...>
I have a dilemma.
<fess up buuuudy>
According to the LaMotte calcium test, my calcium level is over 800.
<how cool is that... you have a living snow globe!>
My alk is 3.0 meq/l (8.4 dKH) according to Fastest kit.
<the slightly low ALK is expected and necessary to prevent "snowfall" (crystalline precip of carbonates)>
Ammonia=0, Nitrate<5ppm, pH ~8.2, SG = 1.025. Back in
October 2002, I was using SeaTest Ca test and getting readings about 600 or so. I stopped using the two-part and did greater than 25% water changes weekly in addition to my 10% weekly water changes. I have not added any Ca additives since the end of October.
<something does not add up then. Test your source water for high calcium. The Ca must be coming from somewhere. If the tap is high and you have a lot of evap, perhaps there's your ticket>
I did my last 25% water change last week, and switched to LaMotte test kit for Ca this week. My current procedures don't seem to be lowering the Ca.
<we simply need to ID where its coming from. Sea salt mixes up at 325-450 ppm Ca at best.>
I have about 100lbs of Fiji LR, and aragonite mixed with fine sand as substrate. I have a 3 inch across brown Acropora sp., colony of yellow colonial polyps, green star polyps, metallic blue mushrooms, a bubble tip anemone, Astrea snails, 3 peppermint shrimp, and a few blue legged hermit crabs, 3 damsels, and a tomato clown all in a 55 gallon with built in corner overflow (with newly installed Durso), going into a 10 gallon sump where
there sits an AquaC Urchin in the first chamber, then Chemi-pure and PolyFilter, couple of pieces of LR, and a Mag9.5 return pump. Skimmer is producing about a 1/4 cup of skimmate daily. I top off with buffered deionized water.
<Hmmm... shoots that theory>
My 10% weekly changes are done with aerated, buffered
water made 4 days in advanced. The major 25% changes have been done with regular tap water, aerated, then buffered, then salted over 4 days. I use Instant Ocean.
<yes... under 400ppm likely... Ca coming from elsewhere. Mix a batch of new saltwater and test that before it goes into the tank>
However, my Acropora has started to grow (new white tips all over, and it's starting to grow over the dead skeleton base), with full polyp extension. It took many months to acclimate, I guess. My
colonies of yellow polyps and green star polyps are spreading, and the coralline growth is running rampant (so many new spots growing all over rocks and glass, I can't scrape it off front pane fast enough). Snail shells are covered with coralline and I can see where new shell is calcifying(?). Help me please. Or should I ask how much time does my tank have before it crashes? Thanx,
Randy M. Yniguez, MA
<we should be able to control these levels simply with new seawater made with purified water. Kindly, Anthony>

How Much Time Does My Tank Have? Ca/Alk problems
Thanx for the response Anthony.
I shouldn't  try to raise alk level then?
<nope... could be fuel for the fire>
Is the tank "naturally" trying to prevent precip on its own?
<sort of... or rather, high levels of both coincidently are difficult and unnatural. In a healthy tank, when one is high, the other is moderate at best. Here, though, you Ca is frightful. Dilution ASAP with confirmed low "low" (normal -350ppm) new seawater is needed>
I will persist with the water changes after I test a new batch of sea water. What (side) effects could occur if I did about a 50% water change?
<nothing bad with properly mixed/aerated NSW conditions>
What long term effects are there if I allowed Ca to stay over 800?
<hell breaking loose>
Would alk start going down?
<yes... very likely>
Would the addition of more Ca loving organisms help alleviate or lower Ca levels?
<not direct or appropriate. It assumes that they can even calcify in the skewed dynamic>
Should I continue to buffer top off and water changes?
<minimally and normally but not to excess>
Thanx, RY
<best regards, Anthony>

- Stabilizing Calcium/Alkalinity -
Hi there All
A question regarding my tank:
Calcium levels were found to be low 280ppm, started raising it using Red Sea Reef Calcium, level went to approx 450ppm.
Alkalinity was measured at the same time and found to be very low 2.0meg/l ,started raising it using Red sea reef Kalk.
I seem unable to raise alkalinity any higher than it is now 2.5meg/l  and calcium levels have moved past the 500ppm mark!
<Yes, well... calcium and alkalinity at high levels become mutually exclusive - meaning if one is high, the other will be low. Please read this article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
I have had a very stable Ph up until now, but this has also dropped to a level of 7.9 during the day! Will be even lower at night! I have noticed the tips of the Caulerpa in the tank becoming translucent and dying off - more recently a large section of razor Caulerpa disintegrated  completely! The chemistry in my tank is obviously out of whack - could the addition of these products have started the roller-coaster ride? <Would be my first guess.>
Please advise as to what can be done to stabilize things. <Stop the additions for now, do a couple of water changes, and read that article.>
I have started water changes already but need a long term solution for maintaining both calcium and alk without affecting ph. I would prefer not to use Kalkwasser, a liquid supplement looks good to me. <A calcium reactor looks even better to me.>
I have great difficulty obtaining most supplements in my country.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Hilton
<Cheers, J -- >

High Calcium & Alk
Hello & Good Day!
<Good day to you>
I’ve read all through the Calcium and Alk FAQs and they’ve added to my confusion.  Here’s the scenario;
Tank is 75gal with 75lbs LR and DSB.  Tank completed it’s cycle 10days ago.  Since then I’ve added 2 dozen snails and 1 dozen hermits over the course of seven days.  A few days ago I decided to start testing Calcium and Alk to see where I stood and to make sure my Coralline was going to do well.
Day 1 of testing Calcium / Alk in main tank = Cal 210, Alk 11.5   So I added some Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium. “Contents are calcium ions, hydrogen carbonate and all 70 trace elements found in natural sea water.”
Day 2 of testing Calcium / Alk in main tank = Cal 300, Alk 13.8    tested Replacement Water ( 10gals ) = Cal 270, Alk 9.9  Added Tropic Marin to both.
Day 3 ( Today ) of testing Calcium / Alk in main tank = Cal 315, Alk 15   tested Replacement Water = Cal 255, Alk 12.2
…So…
I –thought- that as one raised the other would lower but it actually looks like both are rising in my main tank.  I’m adding the Tropic Marin as directed but now that my Alk is out of the recommended range I’m leery of adding anymore.
<The Tropic Marin could be raising both.>
What should I do?  Wait a couple days and test again?  Use a product to lower Alk?  If so, what?  I’d like to start placing some actual fish in the system but not until I can understand and handle what I’ve bitten off so far.
Thanks for your time!
Scott
<I would start by doing several large water changes (25%-50%) over the next 7 to 10 days, without adding supplements.  This should dilute the imbalance.  Then resume supplementation with a 2part calcium supplement, Tropic Marin, or Kalk.  Best Regards, Gage>

- Ca KH difficulty -
Hello all, I hope all is well. <And hello to you, JasonC here...> My question is in regard to my difficulty maintaining alkalinity and calcium levels.  My readings are as follows: Alk 11 deg, Ca 340, pH via pinpoint 7.90 prior to lights on 8.2 just prior to lights off, 0 ammonia, <10 nitrate.  In a 75 gal tank + 5 in the sump I do 6 gal weekly water changes with buffered aged DI prepared water (pH 8.3, 13 kH).  The only stony I have is an E. divisa, and I maintain a medium sized crop of Hailmeda (growing like crazy, using significant Ca) along with 90lbs nicely covered live rock, star and button polyps and some mushrooms.  I am trying to maintain pH above 8.3 (I want to utilize a Xenia scrubber), Ca around 400 and KH of 13.  In order to keep the measurements I have, I find myself needing to dose 1/4 tsp. calcium hydroxide via the slurry method, and 2 tsp. Seachem reef buffer daily (in excess of Seachem directions).  I wouldn't be so concerned except for the fluctuating and depressed pH. <I would be looking for sources... things that would lower your pH - large amounts of Halimeda could contribute via respiration over night... likewise, this could be a calcium vacuum for you, you might want to keep the stuff in check, perhaps sell/trade some back to your LFS. Also, if your house has been closed tight all winter, you might try opening a window or two and freshen the air in the house - this sometimes gives temporary help.> I monitor pH continuously and test parameters 3 times weekly. Is there something I am missing or should I continue to test/increase buffering and slurrying? <In your case, with the pH as low as it is in the morning, you could do some real harm with a sudden pH shock by adding a slurry... you might be better off slowly dripping the same slurry overnight, which would help offset the pH drop.>
Thank you for all of you advise in the past.
Ed in NJ
<Cheers, J -- >

- Low Calcium Redux -
Jason, many thanks! <My pleasure.> A final point: You suggested,
<<I'm not real familiar with the Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium, but I'm pretty sure it's calcium carbonate along with a bunch of other stuff... quite likely that this is what has your alkalinity where it is now.>>
Yes, that could be it...or, it could be all the buffer I've been adding: Kent's Superbuffer - dKH. <Ahh... you left that detail out before, that would also bring up the alkalinity.> I have been adding 1 1/2 scoops every other day. I think it wise to cut way back on the buffer additive for now, and take readings to make sure the dKH doesn't drop too far.  Make sense? <Yes, good plan.> Thanks again, Jason.
Best,
Ralph
<Cheers, J -- >

Interesting pH question
Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in his stead. Bob travels to Hawaii this month, my friend>
I almost had a fish holocaust yesterday caused by a dead Halimeda polluting my tank.  
<quite possibly a vegetative act of sexual reproduction like we experience with Caulerpa (the Halimeda looked bleached and speckled afterwards yes?). This is caused by not pruning the colony adequately/often enough (allowing it to complete a life cycle) ... and/or... not doing adequate water changes and/or supplementation of biominerals (Calcium/Alkalinity) to keep up with the demand of a growing colony. Heed these needs and you can easily enjoy such algae in the future>
Water turned green and cloudy and anemone turned stringy.  Fish not happy!  I removed the offender and did a massive (30%) water change and waited to hope things cleared up.  I have a refugium algae filter and live rock as my main filtering mechanisms.  Everything is clear and the fish and anemone are looking really good this morning.  Phew!
<very good to hear. Water changes are life savers <G>>
I have always had low ph (7.9 measured in the AM).  My hardness runs around 3-4 meq/L.  
<the pH is indeed low, but the ALK is fine>
Calcium before the incident was 380.  
<no problem... a whisker flat. If the dosing of such minerals is inconsistent though to get these averages... that would be part of the calcareous algae problem (dosing small amounts of Calcium daily, yes?)>
The Halimeda was new and the water parameters are not terrible for it, so it was probably just not a healthy specimen.  
<more likely stress induced if not a lack of pruning. If not the above, then perhaps the addition of a few gallons of freshwater for evap top-off in the tank recently causing a saline differential suddenly>
There is another Halimeda from the same shipment that is vibrant green--another verification of the water quality.
<not a fair indicator... different stages of life cycle possible here>
Anyhow, I would like the ph higher for my sanity.  
<agreed>
I have a nice coral substrate, but getting old.  
<over 18-24 months needs some exchanging/refreshing>
So I started replenishing it with new aragonite sand about a month ago.  I thought that might help with the water parameters, but the ph is still about the same.  (As an interesting side note, I used to have ridiculously high Ca as measured by my Seachem kit.  Now I figure that was due to a not very good quality saltwater mix.  I have switched to Instant Ocean.)
<very good... agreed with the move>
I thought with this large water change that the ph might budge higher a little.  It didn't.  I had to make up new saltwater yesterday after doing all of these water changes.  After testing the tank ph this morning, I ran out to my garage and tested the pH of the water that has now been heating and mixing in my trusty Rubbermaid for almost 24 hours.  It measured 7.8!!  I'd like to fix the pH of my synthetic saltwater before I even think of tackling the pH in the tank. I use tap water that is pretty hard.  I fill the container, add my salt and Amquel and allow it to mix with a powerhead and heat for about a week with the lid on the barrel to prevent evaporation before using.  This lasts me several water changes usually.  I don't usually test the ph, figuring the synthetic salt should take care of this.  
<agreed/largely>
Could the lid on the container been preventing gas exchange, keeping the ph down?
<in any vessel yes... but what of the display tanks low pH? Test any/all by aerating a glass of saltwater outside for 6-12 hours and seeing if you get any pH increase>
What should be the procedure?  Should I buffer it with baking soda prior to adding the salt?  
<depends on the pH/hardness of the freshwater you are using>
If I keep the lid slightly open, don't I then have to worry about salinity due to evaporation?
<very little concern here... do encourage good gas exchange>
I don't usually do any Kalkwasser dosing or anything.  I do have a Kent 2-part calcium  buffer around when from when I first set up the refugium and the Ecosystem folks said that I might have to dose calcium with this set up.  I got it just in case, but haven't really used it.
<I would strongly encourage Kalkwasser use... and strongly discourage any liquid calcium (chloride) long term usage [much info in our archives and out on the 'Net about the dangers of using liquid calcium long term... problems often after a good 8 months or more]>
Thanks again for all of your help.  You have made my aquarium hobby much more enjoyable. Linda
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Halimeda going vegetative and Kalkwasser 5/19/03
Anthony, Sorry to think you might be Bob.  He answered me about a monster sea cuke a few days ago (don't worry, it has found a new home...).
<no worries... we all share a communal mailbox and all help as/when needed <G>>
> <more likely stress induced if not a lack of pruning. If not the
> above, then perhaps the addition of a few gallons of freshwater for  evap top-off in the tank recently causing a saline differential  suddenly>
Bingo!!! The LFS guy told me my salinity, at 1.025, was a little high.  I have been attempting to lower it over the last few days and got it to between 1.022-1.023, but now realize that it was too fast for the tank's occupants.
<Ahh, yes. A common catalyst. Have done this myself...heehee>
Normally, I top-off my tank (about 45 gallons) every few days with 1 gallon of freshwater treated with Amquel.  I put the Amquel in the bucket then simply pour water from the aerating sink tap into the bucket very fast.  This is allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes and then poured directly into my pump return chamber that feeds directly into the display area of my tank.
<just curiously... was the affected Halimeda near to the outlet/return? Makes matters worse/argument/diagnosis stronger>
Whatever is leftover is left in the open bucket under the tank for top off another day.  I hope this works because I hate to have to add even the noise from a small air pump to my small house just to bubble the make-up water! I have no corals, but do have live rock and some inverts and macroalgae in the refugium and a few up front in the display (if they survive my abuses).  Low maintenance is really important to me, which is why I went for the algae scrubber filter to begin with.
I tried to find everything about the Kalkwasser slurry from the faq's and I will go get your book and skim through that section.
<do use a keyword search for "Kalkwasser slurry" on google for our website, if you haven't found the excerpt. Its on one or two of the FAQ pages>
Can I modify my top-off regimen by mixing up the Kalkwasser in the 1 gallon bucket to create the slurry and then pouring in to top-off at night after the lights are out every night?  
<not really... a slurry is made in a small glass of cold/cool water and shot in immediately... no Kalk (slurry or super saturated solution) can be left exposed to air (as in open bucket) as it forms insoluble calcium carbonate (the chalky sheen on the surface of the water) and wastes Kalk>
Do I need a digital pH meter or will an accurate testing kit suffice (I have the Seachem Multitest)?  
<a digital meter will be highly recommended if doing the slurry method... else simply use Kalk in a slow drip of supersaturated solution. That will likely be fine in your case here with a lower demand in the tank for calcium (sans corals)>
How long do I wait to check the pH change for each slurry addition?  If I haven't been dosing calcium up until now, how do I know what the daily Ca dose should be for a healthy tank, knowing that I also am trying to get the pH up (recall it is around 7.9 currently).
<all explained at length in the archives my friend... my apologies for the redirect, my friend... but we struggle to deal with the volume of mail we get every day and must rely on our archives rather than rewrite popular topics over>
What is the best way to raise the pH in a Rubbermaid barrel full of low pH saltwater mix?  I left the power head on all day with the lid off and it is still just as low.  Can/should I just use baking soda?  
<baking soda (small amounts slowly) is usually all one needs... Kalk helps afterwards in the tank>
I thought Instant Ocean has buffers to equalize things?  
<sort of... but you/we must understand that the formula is fixed, our source waters among users across the world (and even seasonally with a single user) varies widely. We must be realistic and make adjustments for our individual needs in some cases based on this>
All the water has in it now is Amquel and IO mix... Linda
<have you read this article yet, my friend:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
perhaps a good primer. Kind regards, Anthony>

Water Chemistry: Alk and pH 5/23/03
hi Anthony I need some advise on this  I started to use reef advance and reef builder  for one week then I tested ph, ca, alk, this is results ph 9.0, ca 440ppm, alk 5.03, so I think ph and alkalinity are way too high. It has been one month and a half and thinks do not go down what can I do to lower alk  I thank you again Genaro
<agreed... please do at least 2 large water changes (30-50%) in the next 7-10 days to dilute the skewed water chemistry. Then resume a more sensitive schedule of supplementation (smaller doses and tested more often). Do read here if you haven't yet:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
best regards, Anthony>

Kalk Slurry question- 6/4/03
Hello Folks, this question is for Anthony if possible.  I am using his "Kalk slurry" method of adding calcium.  It is a 90G tank with a 4 -5 DSB and 90lbs. of live rock.  It is a very new tank, only a month or so old, but with a mix of existing rock from a 5+ year old tank, it cycled quickly.  Right now it only has live rock in it, nothing else.  I add 3/4 of a teaspoon of Kalk in a cup of cold RO water and stir it up and pour it in, takes about a minute.  This is done about 7 am.  It takes the PH from 8.2 to 8.4.  Lights come on around 3:00 pm.  Now if I needed to add more Kalk, could I?  
<you can indeed (several daily in high demand tanks... aged and mature with fast coral growth). But in this case... it is doubtful if you even need the 3/4 teaspoon daily. Check the accuracy of your test kit if it says otherwise.>
The PH is at 8.4 when the lights are on, so I can't imagine I should dose more,
<agreed>
but the calcium level is doesn't want to go above 320, with a KH of 11.  
<ahhh...there's your problem, bud. High alk and high Ca are very difficult , if even natural, to maintain concurrently. Read here and all will be revealed <G>:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
I use Instant Ocean salt.  I have the same problem in my older tank and I had tested the Magnesium levels in that one, they are about 3x the calcium level.  What else can I do?  
<the problem is the ALK, my friend. Let it stray down towards 8 or 9 dKH and you will then see you Ca rise without changing a thing. As it is now, you are just precipitating it>
I don't want to drip and I can't afford a Calcium Reactor right now.  Your help would be greatly appreciated.
<no worries... heed the "marble analogy" in the article/link above. Best regards, Anthony>

- Calcium Question -
Hi,
<Hello, JasonC here...>
I realize you guys are inundated with questions regarding calcium and alkalinity, but I've decided to add a few more if you don't mind.  I've got a 30 g reef tank moderately stocked with many types of mushroom corals, polyps, a leather and colt coral, and Xenia.
Recently I've been trying to raise calcium levels b/c after testing w/ a kit I found they were about 260 mg/L.  I've been adding b-ionic, Kalkwasser and also SeaChem reef calcium.  With all these additions, the calcium levels don't raise much but I've found my alkalinity went to the top of the chart (Salifert test) and this goes back to normal levels after about 2 days.  My coralline algae on the back of the tank has started turning a bright pink color and is spreading all over the tank, which I take as a good sign. <Indeed.>
First of all, is it normal for the alkalinity to spike so high yet the calcium levels don't change? <Not necessarily 'normal' but is predictable.> The polyps retract (including the Xenia) when I add these supplements and after a few hours they come back out. <You are probably adding too much at one time... should meter out over the course of the day.>
What would you recommend to bring the calcium levels to where they should be? <Depends on the makeup of your system. If I were to just hazard a guess, I'd bet you don't have a lot of substrate or live rock - natural sources of alkaline reserve.> Should this be spaced out over days or done at once? <Always best to make additions/changes slowly.>
Finally, I notice the tank does much better when I do a water change (about 5 g ever 2 wks) then with any supplement I put in the tank.  Is this always the case? <Not always... but seems to be in your instance.> Or can one figure out a supplement regiment that has the same effect? <Sure, but I'd be looking to stabilize the alkalinity first... calcium will fall into line after that. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Thanks for your help, Ben
<Cheers, J -- >

Water parameter problems 6/20/03
I have a 6 month old 120 gallon tank with 30 gallon sump.  My water ph and ca stay low constantly - 8.01/350 respectively. While my alk is sky high 13.4 dKH.  
<the ALK is high... getting a bit dangerous in fact and directly related to why your Ca is low. Read more here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
Other parameters as follows water temp 80, phosphate .4,Nitrite 0,
Nitrate 0,ammonia 0, sg 1.022.  I have 2 clowns and a flame angel, and several soft corals.  I have been using a 2 part ca additive regularly (Calxmax).  
<hmmm... if using the two part product and still with an imbalance, it tells us one of two things: 1) you started dosing the tank without adjusting the water first (2 parts only carry on balanced supplementation of a balanced aquarium... cannot magically correct an imbalance), or 2) dosing of the supplements has been done without vigorously mixing/shaking the products with every use... they settle by density in the bottle and can skew your chemistry is dosed this way>
Thanks for any suggestions. Kevin
<do read in our archives too (google search from WWM home page) about opening a window and aerating the tank to take care of depressed pH. Very common. Best regards, Anthony>

Calcium and alk stuff!
Hello crew! Thank you in advance for your help! You have helped setup my reef tank over the last year and now it is quite nice! Your help has been invaluable.
I had let my reef tank go several months without checking the Calcium or alkalinity. <Shame, shame, shame.> When I first checked it last week, it was at nearly 700 ppm Calcium, an alkalinity of 1.8 meq/L, and a pH of 7.9. <Ew> This occurred because I was using a SeaChem's line of reef additive without testing the results. I never added a buffer solution! <Yep> My first corrective action was to buy Kent's buffer solution and raise the alkalinity to 4.0 meq/L. I also started using your "Lime Slurry" method. I started adding ¼ of a teaspoon to 16 oz of pure RO water and then added this to my tank in the AM before lights on. I increased this daily while checking the pH with a digital pH probe. Now I am adding 1 teaspoon the same way and my pH only increased this morning from 7.95 to 8.06. Also this morning my calcium was down to 595 ppm and my alkalinity is 4.0 meq/L. <Sounds good to me, although the calcium seems abnormally high for that alk level> Adding 1 teaspoon a day is raising my pH slowly and I will continue until I reach a peak pH (just before lights out) of 8.35. <Why? Your calcium and alk levels are already very high. Don't be so concerned with the pH number, it's more important that it isn't swinging all over the place. During the day, my pH hovers around 8.0, it's very common.> At that time I will stop adding everything and determine my daily Calcium usage just like I read on the WWM website! I use SeaChem's test kits and receive very consistent results. My source for the Calcium Hydroxide is Ball's "pickling lime". I read on WWM site that you CAN and CAN NOT use baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) to buffer the water. Can you explain when it is acceptable and when it is not acceptable to use it? <See below> Can you also explain the best method for adding it? <Dissolve in purified water then pour in sump (if you don't have a sump, dissolve it good and slowly pour it into an area of high flow)> What I read on WWM was that there would be an ionic mis-balance caused by using baking soda. What is that about?
<Here's an little blurb from http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm
"Baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, is a significant portion of most dry mixes of sea buffer. I do not recommend using sodium bicarbonate alone for most aquarists, especially new and less experienced individuals, without the strong admonition that it can raise pH quickly and dangerously without due caution. Baking soda should only be used in small portions when water quality can be tested frequently."
I'm not sure about it creating any sort of an ionic mis-balance, but it is very commonly used with great success. >
I am a chemical engineer and have a decent understanding of a reef's chemistry and I need more explanation before I can accept this statement. I only used the Kent buffer because I had a gross alkalinity mis-balance and did not want to take any chances while correcting it. Now that I am at a stable point I want to start using baking soda to buffer my reef. <A better way to do this is to pick up a balanced calcium and alk supplement (such as ESV's b-ionic, Kent's Tech CB, Two little fishies C-Balance, etc). Otherwise you'll be going back and forth trying to balance these levels.> What is the affect of Boron when buffering? <You don't have to go out of your way to add it, there is usually an overabundance in our systems anyways.> biweekly water changes keep enough Boron in the system to prevent this "ionic mis-balance"? <You got it> I plan on adding the Sodium Bicarbonate in my automatic top water system. Do you see a problem with this? <Nope, but why don't you use the Kalkwasser in it instead?> Do you have a suggestion for determining the right amount of Sodium Bicarbonate to add?
<Randy Holmes-Farley wrote an excellent article about this and other stuff in Advanced Aquarist: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
You'll find how much to add in that article. -Kevin>
Thank you and happy reef watching!  Jeff

Ozone and Alkalinity Question - 8/10/03
Dear WWM crew,
<howdy>
My 240 gallon tank is currently running at 375 mv to 398 mv without my Clearwater ozone generator turned on (last several days).  
<very fine>
The ozone is set to turn on at 345 mv.  
<And your hi-point is set for just under 400 I presume?>
If I understand it from Bob's book, that over 400 mv is dangerous to the life in my tank.
<rather... it's the high end of the safe zone. Agreed>
My tests for alkalinity yield 14.0 dKH.  My calcium is 350.  Any advice or suggestions?
<your ALK is too high... do let that stray down to a ceiling of 12dKH. The calcium is fine however. No need to fixate on specific numbers... just stay stably within a range>
Current parameters:
Ph ranges from 8.28 in the a.m. to 8.4 in the p.m.
Calcium Reactor effluent Ph is 6.78
Ammonia=0
Nitrites=0
Nitrates=25
Salinity=1.026
Temperature=80 (temperature is controlled)
300 lbs live rock in display, small amount of live rock in refugium.  Live rock teaming with copepods and amphipods. Several white Syconoid sponges present on the rock. Small amount of coral gravel (1 to 2") in display and refugium. Good amount of macro algae in refugium. (Light on 24/7)
<all fine>
Fish=Picasso trigger (In sump waiting for a home), blue tang, 3 yellow tangs,6 blue/green Chromis, 6 line wrasse, watchman goby, green mandarin and scooter blenny.
Corals=torch coral, brain coral, cabbage coral, colt coral, Kenya tree coral, button polyps.
Inverts=Crocea clam, bubble tip anemone, cl