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FAQs on Calcium, Supplements involving Calcium, Supplements
Related Articles: Calcium, The Use of Kalkwasser by Russell Schultz, Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity, Live Sand,
Marine Substrates, Reef
Systems,
Refugiums, Related FAQs:
Calcium, FAQs 1, Calcium, FAQs 2, Calcium
FAQs 3, Calcium FAQs 4,
Calcium FAQs 5, Calcium FAQs 6,
Calcium FAQs 7, & FAQs on Calcium:
Rationale/Use, Calcium Measuring/Test
Kits, Sources of Calcium,
Dosing, Chemical/Physical Interactions,
Troubleshooting/Fixing, &
Calcium and Alkalinity, Calcium
Reactors, & Calcium Reactors,
& FAQs on Calcium Reactors:
Rationale/Use, Selection,
Installation, Operation,
Media, Measuring,
Trouble-Shooting, By Makes/Models,
& Kalkwasser, &
FAQs on: The Science of Calcium & Alkalinity,
Importance, Measure,
Sources, Use of Additives, Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Products, |
The best? Mmm, in order... Maybe frequent partial water changes,
Calcium reactors of various designs, Powdered/soluble Calcium, two
part supplements or Kalkwasser for some, Calcium chloride for short
term, Calcium gluconate for only supplementing for coralline algal
growth.
All need to be administered with awareness of alkalinity
and Magnesium levels present and the use of the Calcium and Alk. by
the life present... |
|
Carib sea Aragamilk, Aragamite |
"Calcium", carbonate, bicarbonate... not very soluble |
|
Kent Marine "Pro-Buffer dKH" |
deionized water containing carbonate, bicarbonate, sulfate and
borate salts with trace minerals | |
Kent Marine "Liquid Reactor... Calcium" |
RO/DI water, chloride-free calcium, magnesium, and strontium
salts from natural sources | |
Kent Marine "SuperBuffer dKH" |
carbonate, bicarbonate and borate salts of sodium, magnesium,
and potassium | |
Kent Marine "Coral Builder" |
Contains carbonate, and bicarbonate salts | |
Kent Marine "Tech· CB parts A & B " |
Part A: deionized water containing the following ions: calcium,
chloride, magnesium, strontium, bromide, lithium, rubidium,
nickel, chromium, zinc, copper, cesium, iron, manganese, cobalt.
Part B: deionized water containing the following ions: sodium,
potassium, bicarbonate, carbonate, borate, fluoride, iodide,
molybdate, selenate, vanadate, and tungstate |
|
Seachem's "Reef Calcium" |
Calcium gluconate (sugar calcium) | |
Seachem's "Reef Complete" |
liquid calcium chloride ,
magnesium and strontium | |
Seachem's "Reef Advantage Calcium" |
Calcium, magnesium and strontium | |
Seachem's "Kalkwasser" |
Calcium Hydroxide |
Tropic Marin Bio Calcium
6/25/09
Hi there, New to WWW
<Hello Kris, welcome to our site.>
I'm inquiring on the process of adding Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium powder
to my system.
First off I just got done cycling my 98 gallon FOWLR system, but have no
fish added as of yet. When adding the 125 lbs. of live rock, my maint.
man told me to get Tropic Marin Bio Calcium, Kent iodine, and Kent
strontium.
to calcify the live rock and also get the coralline algae growth
started.
<OK>
While I have many folks tell me that if I don't have corals I don't need
to add these things......I'm not here to debate that at this time, I'm
here to ask about how to correctly add this powder to my tank now, and
how to when I add fish. My guy said simply add it to the sump as
directed. after 3 days of seeing un-dissolved powder on my sump floor,
started thinking this wasn't an effective way.
<Not quite correct. The Tropic Marin Bio Calcium dissolves quite fast,
within a minute or two. I'm going to say that you will be using
approximately 4 level measuring spoons, three times per week (spoon
included in can) to maintain 400ppm of calcium.>
Since there was no livestock in the aquarium, I started adding it
directly to the aquarium near the incoming water to evenly spread the
powder. Well I noticed a lot would simply fall down to the stand and not
dissolve.
<Is best to add it to the sump where more water turbulence exists.>
When doing top offs I would add the powder to a gallon pitcher and add
the mixture to the sump, I preferred this method, but now have read
where this could be considered calcium carbonate and does not have many
benefits.
<Calcium carbonate is the main component of shells of marine organisms
and is indirectly a by product of calcium. The mixture isn't going to
turn into calcium carbonate. I prefer to add the powder directly into
the sump.
Mixing the powder with water creates cloudy conditions in the tank.>
I would prefer to add it daily that way, but is it loosing its purpose,
<No.>
would it be harmful to fish when they are added in the next few weeks?
<Can burn both fish and invertebrates if contact is made with the
powder.
This product will produce carbon dioxide when mixed. If you place some
powder in a plastic glass and add water, the bottom of the glass will
become very warm.
Carbon dioxide is essential to the zooxanthellae that live within the
corals, it is used during photosynthesis and derived from certain
calcium compounds thus making the calcium available to the coral itself.
Whether you choose to use in powder form or mixed with fresh water, do
add directly to the sump. Keep in mind that Tropic Marin's
recommendation is to sprinkle the powder to the sump and not mix with
freshwater. James (Salty Dog)>
Kris
Re: Tropic Marin Bio Calcium
6/25/09
The instructions say to put one spoon per 10 gallons a day. You think it
be better 4 spoons 3 times per week? if so sounds reasonable. THANKS!
<The amount of the dose will largely depend on how many calcium loving
animals you have in your tank. This is something that you will have to
determine by frequent testing of calcium levels. I said "I'm guessing",
and was based on my own dosage of three level spoons, three times per
week in a 90 gallon long (60"x18"). My tank is moderately stocked with
calcium loving animals. Do ensure that you keep your magnesium level in
the range of 1250-1300 as it has much to do with calcium availability.
Then get your calcium level up to 400ppm first, then start with the
recommended dose and monitor daily making
adjustments if necessary. James (Salty Dog)>
Calcium additive - 02/08/09
Hello,
<Hi, Minh at your
service.>
Just a quick question...does anybody have any experience or
heard about this Part A / B , calcium/alk additives made by WM Research
called CALXMAX? the price is more than B Ionic so I'm thinking this
stuff must be good! Pls advise
before I spent my money on something
that's not worth buying .
<There are some good reviews of Warner
Marine's Calxmax 2 part calcium/alkalinity supplementation scheme. There
are just as many if not many more positive reviews of ESV's B-Ionic
system. Like these two systems, there are many others that claim to add
other major, minor and trace elements along with calcium and alkalinity.
The price difference between various products can be high while their
promise for additional benefits may be marginal at best or fall short
altogether. Keep this in
mind when making your decision on which
supplementation scheme to go with.>
Last question (I know), is anyone
from the "crew" uses this 2 part additives or everyone else is using
Calcium Reactor or better yet Kalk? I'm sure Bob and Anthony are using
Calcium Reactor.
<We all have our own methods of maintaining calcium
and alkalinity in our systems as they all have associated pros and cons.
Some use commercial two part systems like ESV's B-Ionic, some use DIY
two-part systems
(http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php), others like
myself use Kalkwasser while there are some that use calcium reactors.
The method that we decided to use is the one that best fits the needs
for our system and personal schedule/budget. For example, a small soft
coral bio-tope with a relatively low calcium demand would be a good
candidate for a commercial two-part supplement system. If the aquarist
of the same bio-tope is unable to perform daily dosing due to his/her
schedule, that aquarist may elect to use Kalkwasser in an auto-top off
scheme. If an aquarist needs to maintain calcium and alkalinity in a
large SPS system with a high calcium demand, two-part systems become
either costly or too
inefficient then a calcium reactor should be
employed.>
Thanks in advance.
Nemo1
<You're welcome. Cheers,
Minh Huynh.>
Calcium Chloride Or Calcium Hydroxide 1/13/09
Team,
<Aaron>
I've had my 75 gallon Oceanic up and running for 2.5 years
now and I've been keeping SPS corals for the past year now. Before
adding SPS, I never even monitored my calcium or alkalinity or added
supplements.
Since starting with the SPS I've been testing my
calcium/alkalinity regularly and supplementing as needed. I've been
keeping the alkalinity up with Seachem Reef Builder, and I've been
keeping the calcium up with Calcium Chloride I've been getting from the
local science supply store.
<I'm not a big fan of Calcium Chloride.
It is a fast method of getting your calcium level up without the danger
of raising the pH, but has no other benefits such as pH and
dKH/alkalinity support. Using it long term requires constant monitoring
and supplementation and frequent water changes to dilute the potentially
dangerous chloride ions which can screw up your water chemistry and play
havoc with calcium/alkalinity balance.>
I was using about 4 tsp of
Reef Builder per week and 3 tsp of dry calcium chloride per week -
successfully keeping my alkalinity from 8-12 dKH and my calcium between
375 and 425 and seeing a decent amount of growth (slower than desired
though) on Acros, Montis, Porites, & hydnos.
I recently learned about
the danger of using calcium chloride and the eventual build up of ions
that will cause eminent doom for my corals and other aquarium life.
<Ah, you did learn this. Great.>
As a result, 3 days ago I started to
drip Kalk. I've started out putting 1 tsp of pickling lime in 1 gallon
of water and dripping 24/7.
<As for using pickling lime, I've asked
Anthony Calfo this question last year and you can read his response to
me a short way down on this link.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkprods.htm>
I have a reverse photo
period in my sump with frags and macro algae, so a night only drip
doesn't make sense.
Am I on the right track? Do I need to do a 100%
water change? Will I still need to use the Reef Builder now that I'm
dripping Kalk?
<Only testing will determine this.>
Everything
seems to be fine visually. I feel like I knew what I was doing and now I
feel like I'm starting from scratch. I have succumb to the fear
instilled in me by the shop keeper at the LFS. Any advice would be much
appreciated.
<You never mentioned using magnesium supplements. For
all the calcium to be available to the corals, magnesium needs to be
maintained in the area of 1280ppm.
They go hand and hand. An
example would be if your measured magnesium level read 650ppm, which is
half of the desired level, only one half of the calcium measured in your
tank would be available to the corals. So, if you are reading a calcium
level of 400ppm, the corals are seeing 200ppm.
I've been down that
road before and I saw the benefits when calcium and magnesium are in
balance. Do read here for a better understanding of calcium/alkalinity
balance.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Aaron Chandler
Calcium supplement question... culture, keeping Nephtheids
6/12/08
Hello
<Howsit?>
I have a 500 gallon total system
for non photosynthetic organisms and have been working with
Dendronephthya and Scleronephthya for some years. (I published an
article on Reef Central under Dendronephthya Husbandry a few months ago
about my friend Chuck Stottlemire's tank). The trouble is, Chuck's tank
has done VERY well with these organisms; mine hasn't. (The trick seems
to have been continuous feeding of phytoplankton and rotifer product).
<Necessary... in particular, a mix of "right sized" organisms>
My
organisms slowly die like everyone else's. For years I have supplemented
to NSW values with silica. I haven't checked the alkalinity or calcium
for years, since there was little calcification/ coralline growth.
<Mmm... these materials still get "used up" in captive settings>
I
fussed with phosphate issues, which I suspected was the problem (up to
2ppm); when I lowered the phosphate with vodka I would get initially
better expansion then things worsened...
<Ethanol is not a long term
solution...>
Long story short, I checked alkalinity and found it to
be 26 DKH, calcium 280. Hmmm... no alkalinity additives for years,
weekly 10% water changes with moderately hard water. After staying up
half through the night trying to figure this out, I think I found the
problem- chronic silica additions add alkalinity, just as nitrate
additions would. (I have supplemented nitrate as well when the
macroalgae shriveled with undetectable nitrate). This presumably forced
the calcium down.
<A mis-balance all the way around>
After one
large jar of calcium chloride,
<... not a good idea>
I got
impatient and bought a calcium supplement from the pool industry;
<Ditto!>
I read the chemical spec sheet, and it contained 98% calcium
chloride, 1% strontium chloride, and a little magnesium, no other
additives. I've been spooning this stuff in. Over one week, the calcium
rose to 380, the alkalinity then started to fall now in the range of 16
DKH.
<You tell me what I know>
I have read somewhere that some of
the soft corals prefer a NSW DKH of 8-12 for optimum polyp extension,
which is where I want to go.
<Okay...>
Needless to say, Nephtheids
look terrible. However, sponges, snails, fish all look fine.
Question:
1) Do you agree the silica was the cause? (Actually, my
stupidity is the proximate cause, but is the silica the mediating
factor?)
<Only one of a few listed and not>
2) Is the pool
industry additive safe?
<Not really>
3) Am I going to have to
ultimately add so much chloride that the whole system is poisonous and
massive water changes are needed?
<This would happen in time, but
likely other factors will cause you to give up first>
4) If water
changes, I was thinking of continuous water changes of 1000 gallons over
a week or so via doser/exchanger. This would still leave about 30% or
the original water in the system. Is this enough?
<Likely so... I
would be reading... perhaps a few good tomes on general marine aquarium
water chemistry. I would (categorically) NOT use calcium chloride as a
long-term, habitual supplement, NOT use C2H5OH either, NOT supplement
Si02... for a system of this size, type I WOULD look into a calcium
reactor, and a very large refugium and DSB and the culture (likely
separately of nano, pico-plankton et al. sizes) if your intention is to
sustain Nephtheids. Bob Fenner>
Thanks as always
Charles Matthews
M.D.
Question about Ionic 2-Part Additive 5/12/08
My tank has
been set up and running for about five months now and I have a fair
number of calcium consuming inverts, so I monitor calcium and alk.
pretty closely.
<Good practice.>
While I find the calcium
gets depleted regularly and with consistency, my alk. seems to
remain around 10 - 11 DKH and drop very, very slowly. When it gets
down to 8 or so, I add some of the Alk. part of the
IONIC
additive and it goes up to 11-12 and begins its very slow drop.
<This is a sharp increase at once. You may find they deplete at a
more related rate if added at a rate with directed ratios.>
Now I
don't want to look a gift seahorse in the mouth here, but I am
wondering what's going on. Only two possibilities come to my mind:
1) the
aragonite DSB I'm using, or 2) the salt mix (tropic marin)
is replenishing all that is needed.
<Possibilities. What is your
actual PH running?>
Any thoughts on this? I'm running out of
storage
room for the Part 1 of the B-Ionic!!
<This may just be
the way your system runs, but I do suspect other factors at play. A
alk swing from 8 to 12 is not small, you may need to add this more
consistently than you think. The other possibility is the salt. If
the salt is providing high alk and low Ca you may be compensating
for this with your supplementation, giving the appearance of the Ca
being depleted much faster. Scott V.>
Re: Question about Ionic 2-Part Additive 5/13/08
PH is
pretty much pegged at 8.3.
<Good.>
I'm not sure I understand
what you mean by 'adding at directed ratio's'. All I've seen says
add them both equally.
<The directed ratio!>
I'm very
concerned that if I try to add the two parts equally my ALK is going
to skyrocket.
<From what you are describing it is quite possible.
My point was more towards adding it more often in smaller doses to
avoid the 3-4 degKH swings.>
Is it possible that in adding them
equally, one will offset the other and allow the Alk to remain at an
appropriate level?
<No.>
Even if this is true, why add both
parts if it seems clear it only needs one?
<You don’t want to if
you only need to add calcium.>
Thanks for your help on this.
<Do test your makeup and top off water for their respective KH. You
are likely making up the difference somewhere. Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Question about Ionic 2-Part Additive 5/15/08
My top
off water is aerated RO/DI with no buffer. I can only think that
it's the Tropic Marin doing it.
<Must be, high in alk.>
I
change water once a week and it seems to
be enough to handle my
Alk. needs. Presumably as time goes on, the acidity in the tank will
increase and the need for buffer will increase as well.
Thanks
for the help.
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.> |
Re: percula clownfish eggs about to hatch... and DIY suppler of 2 part
SW supplement for Ca and Alk
4/29/08
Hi, and thanks for the help on my
serendipitous clownfish spawn (hoping the hatch is not before Friday).
You asked about my "home-made" two-part additive. Actually it is just
the basic kit from www.bulkreefsupply.com.
For about $50 I have a
lifetime supply of calcium supplement plus alkalinity plus magnesium
occasionally. Highly recommended.
Thanks again, Malcolm Young
<Thank you for sending this along. BobF>
Liquid Calcium and Alkalinity – 04/02/08
Hello,
<<Hi there>>
Well, I can now personally attest to the drawbacks of liquid calcium?
<<Oh?>>
After maintaining a dKH of 10 for months, I now can't get it
over 7 dKH after using liquid calcium (calcium chloride) for months.
<<Ah, I see…the buildup of Chloride ions have thrown your water
chemistry “out of balance”…as you seem to be aware>>
It appears the
chloride ions have run amuck.
<<Indeed>>
Any idea how to get the
dKH back up to 10 or so?
<<Mmm, yes…several large water changes
should make a difference as you need to remove/dilute the Chloride ions
in the system>>
I've added Seachem alkalinity buffer, but it's not
helping much before the pH gets too high (8.5).
<<And the “opposite”
is usually the case with this product…evidence of the high Chloride
residual possibly>>
Is a dKH of 7 bad in a reef aquarium?
<<It’s
not “bad”…but 8 dKH or higher is preferred>>
All inhabitants are
fine, but coralline growth has slowed.
<<No need for panic at this
point... Do the water changes and conditions should improve/balance
should return. Then, research some alternate methods for Calcium
supplementation. Calcium Chloride is fine for the “occasional
adjustment,” but really should be avoided for “continuous and frequent”
use>>
Thanks,
Greg
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Liquid Calcium...Safe To “Boost” New Saltwater? – 07/23/07
Hey
guys.
<<Howdy Steve>>
I have been reading your articles for
several years now, you guys are great.
<<Thank you...quite the
collective effort, indeed>>
Here is my situation: I have noticed that
the IO Reef Crystals salt that I am using only mixes to 340ppm of
calcium.
<<Mmm, just a “personal” comment...I have been very unhappy
with Instant Ocean these past months...am suspecting a formula change or
a possible loss of quality control...will be making the switch to
Seachem very soon>>
I am using C-Balance in my 55-gallon reef to
maintain proper calcium and alkalinity. Can I use Kent Marine liquid
calcium in my freshly mixed saltwater?
<<You can, yes>>
I have
read about all of the drawbacks in using liquid calcium so I have tried
to stay away.
<<Mmm, yes...possible buildup of Chloride...though
maybe not that much of an issue after all>>
However, I figured that
the 5-gallons per week that I am replacing really is not that much…so
there won’t really be any ill effects. I have found that 5ml of the
liquid calcium will get to me to around 400pm of calcium in my 5 gallon
bucket. Can you think of any drawback that this would have for my tank
in the long term? I am thinking it will be ok…
Steve
<<And it
probably will... There “may” be some concern over long-term buildup of
Chloride ions...and if you wish to avoid such you could use a Calcium
Acetate or Calcium Gluconate product, or even simple Kalkwasser. EricR>>
Fiji Gold 3/29/07
Quick question please.............
How do you guys feel about "Fiji Gold" as a calcium supplement?
<As posted on WWM: "Mmm, a mix of sodium bicarbonate, calcium chloride,
calcium carbonate and a little borate. I gave the formulation for this
"Fiji Gold" (delicious, export <FYI is also the name of a beer... Bob,
like Homer Simpson... beeeeer... here being temporarily distracted.>) to
Walt.S sometime ago and strongly suggested he market same and place a
sample in each box of live rock, faux and natural... Bob Fenner">
I
am dosing it once a week as it states on the jar.
<Monitor
levels. More here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
>
Should I supplement any other minerals or is it true what they say
on the package that it includes all the minerals in their "natural"
state.
<Yes, is crushed coral skeletons plus.>
Please let me know what you think about this product.
<Bob, inspired
by said export, named it.>
Thanks,
<Welcome, -Mich>
Jeromy PS- thanks for all the help in the
past!!!!!
<On behalf of the crew, you're quite welcome.>
Calcium Additives 3/28/07
Hello folks,
<Hi Mike>
I have
a 150 gallon SPS tank with roughly 250 lbs. of LR. My params are: Ca
315, Mg 1275, Alk 10.5 dKH, specific gravity 1.026, and
PH 8.2-8.28. The Ca had dropped form 380 down to current level over
a period of time because the Mg was down to 1025, but over the past
3-4 wks, I've slowly raised the Mg up to it's current level. I
was wondering what would be the "best" device to use to bump the Ca
back up into the upper 300s. My LFS really push the Turbo Calcium,
but I've read some not so glowing reviews about it's use.
<Not
familiar or have used the product. I get turned off on products with
prefixes such as Turbo, Supercharge, etc.>
I also run a Ca
reactor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
<I'm
thinking if all is well with the reactor, that alone should suffice.
But, you could use Kalkwasser or a product such as SeaChem's Reef
Calcium or other similar products.>
Thanks again,
<You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Mike pH and Calcium supplements
4/10/06
What product do you recommend to raise pH and calcium
levels?
<<Be sure you understand and test for Alkalinity. pH
measures how acidic or basic the water is. Alkalinity measures the
buffering capacity of the water, or in other words, the ability of the
water to resist changes in pH. Both are very important, and alkalinity
is widely under-appreciated. In any case, Kalkwasser is very useful in
supporting pH, Alkalinity and calcium. It is cheap and easy to
use. Grocery store pickling lime can be substituted for cost
savings. B-Ionic by ESV, C-Balance by Twolittlefishies and TechAB by
Kent are all two part preparations (one part calcium, one part
alkalinity) that work extremely well and are extremely convenient to
use, but are somewhat expensive. There are recipes for "home brew" two
part additives floating about the internet, but are probably best
followed only by those with some chemistry background. Last, but not
least... you can use commercially available dry calcium and alkalinity
additives. They are cheaper than two part additive systems but require a
bit more care in their use. Tropic-Marin makes a great dry product
called BioCalcium that adds calcium and alkalinity in one product. Any
of the above can work very well. Best Regards. AdamC.>>
Calcium Additives For Marine Aquarium - 03/15/2006
I have a 55
gallon tank recently setup with 25 LBS live rock, CPR dx6 protein
skimmer, cs150 CPR overflow. I have 2 inches of live sand and other sand
for substrate. No fish yet. I also am using RO/DI water for water
changes and maintenance. I am looking into calcium and its effects. Your
site is great and a little overwhelmed by information. My question is
Kalkwasser, which is the best supplements to use?
<Unless you fully
understand the effects of Kalkwasser, you would probably be better
served by another choice. The Kalkwasser would change your chemistry
"ball game".
Can you suggest which way to go with using Kalkwasser
or just straight calcium products and which has had more success.
<Too much to try and cover in e-mail. Try studying here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the related links above. Bottom line though, if you feel
uncomfortable with it don't use it. A good frequent water change
schedule (with properly prepared water) would be best. Eliminates the
need for much of these.>
Thanks
Cary
<You're welcome. -
Josh> WWM Question on Substrates part 3
4/16/06
How much turn over do you recommend for a tank? Is that
filtered or just movement?
<<For a reef tank, turn over of at least
10x the tank volume is ideal. Some aquarists use 20x or more. Those
figures apply to the amount of water movement within the tank. This can
be provided by return pumps, powerheads, power filters, etc., but
in-sump protein skimmers don't count.>>
What about Aragamite or
Aragamilk?
<<These products are nearly useless for maintenance of
calcium and alkalinity since like aragonite sand, they are practically
insoluble at normal reef tank pH. Best Regards, AdamC.>
Kalkwasser Reactor versus Calcium Reactor - 05/26/06
** High
Priority **
** Reply Requested When Convenient **
Please help.
<<I shall try>>
I am getting bombarded with "best practice"
suggestions. I've read that some run both units (Kalk reactor/calcium
reactor) -- using the elevated pH effect of the Kalkwasser addition at
night to offset the reduction in pH caused by CO2.
<<This is one
approach. I have/use both reactors...but mine are in operation 24/7>>
Others suggest getting either unit to supplement calcium levels.
<<If I could only use one, it would be the Kalk reactor>>
Others
maintain that Kalkwasser is the better option with noting but benefits
provided it is administered correctly (i.e. limited to night only when
pH levels are usually depressed)
<<I disagree on the
application. When using a Kalkwasser reactor in conjunction with an
auto top-off unit there is little (if any!) danger/more benefit to
letting it operate "'round the clock" in my opinion>>
I have started
using a Kalkwasser stirrer with a dosing pump to add all my RO top-up
water to the tank at NIGHT ONLY.
<<Truly no need for this
hassle...hook it up and let it operate 24/7>>
I have been naively
adding 2 tablespoons of Kalkwasser to the unit every 2 weeks and leaving
it to run on an automatic float switch.
<<Mmm, is this per the
instructions with the unit? You likely need to add more than this for a
two week period>>
Now I have just been told that this is dangerous
and can stuff up pH levels and in the long term drop alkalinity!!!
<<Not when used merely for top-off/evaporation replacement...as long as
you are "dosing" small amounts on a frequent basis and not waiting till
you need to add a gallon of water to top up the tank>>
I am totally
bewildered -- please advise what is best practice when using Kalk
Stirrer?
<<Just as I've stated...but feel free to write back to me
if you need further clarification>>
And would you advise that I look
at getting rid of the stirrer and replacing it with a calcium reactor
instead?
<<Nope...use both if you have them>>
Or is having both
units better?
<<I think so, yes...but is not a necessity>>
Regards
Rayven
Durban, South Africa
<<Cheers, Eric
Russell...Columbia, South Carolina>> Dosing Ca
HI
Do you
recommend using Reef Builder or Reef Carbonate along with the Reef
Advantage? Or will the excess carbonate throw off my other parameters
like pH and ALK?
<You may not have to add anything else. Just check
your dKH and try to maintain between 8-12dkh. I would use Reef Builder
if needed. James (Salty Dog)> Calcium
Hello,
<Hello
Saurav>
Thanks for all your help you guys are great.
<You're
welcome>
I wrote you guys before because I was having problems with
high ALK and high Ca. I changed from Oceanic to Instant Ocean salt and
with water changes the level reduced. I am interested now in getting SPS
corals. I think I have to start dosing Ca, my number at 420 will reduce
I think with more water changes as it has. By the way my ALK is 3.5
meq/L and pH is 8.4. Do you recommend I start dosing Ca?
<I would
maintain 400ppm>
If so what do you recommend to dose with. I have a
55 gallon tank and Kalkwasser seems to be meant for larger tanks and Ca
reactors are pricey. What do you think of Kent Marine Liquid Ca? If you
do not think I should start dosing now at what Ca level will it be
appropriate time to start dosing?
<As above>
Also will SPS
corals, as far as lighting goes, will do ok in my tank particularly
Acropora and Montipora? I have 265 Watts of power compact lighting.
Thanks again!
<Personally I like SeaChem's Reef Advantage (dry
form). It also includes magnesium and strontium, two important elements.
It does not have a caustic ph like Kalkwasser and will not deplete
alkalinity. As far as keeping monti's and Acroporas or flower pot
corals, your lighting would be a bit on borderline, most other corals
you could keep. James (Salty Dog)> Kalk slurry
excerpt (from BOCP1) redux redux 6/5/03
Anthony.... Could you
describe your Kalk slurry method (mixing & administering) please?? Thank
you, Pat Marren
<indeed my friend. Let me direct you to our archives
(really the best way to find extensive data you seek and more... the key
is learning to use and manipulate the google.com search tool for our
site on the main index page for WWM. In this case I cheated and typed in
"Kalk slurry excerpt" and found three pages with it included:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/kalkh20faq2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarfaq3.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlalgfaqs2.htm
if you follow the
many links on and atop these pages, there is a lot of other interesting
data to be found. Kind regards, Anthony> Re: Slurry question
II 6/4/03
Thank you for the quick response Anthony.
<always
welcome my friend>
You know I have read the marble analogy in your
book and on the website, problem was I thought that 11 dKH was
considered more optimum and not real high, with high being more in the
teens, duh!.
<definitely a hazy range of tolerance to be sure. And
I would not say your ALK is dangerous at all at 11 dKH... just sitting
on the higher end of the ideal (8-12 dKH). Unfortunately, the aggressive
SPS and clam keepers preach much higher levels of Ca and ALK
without lending strong admonitions to non-SPS keepers (and folks
without reliable calcium reactors) of the precarious if not dangerous
line that is to walk for most folks. It can be done... but only with
strict supervision and usually by coral farmers needing the extra growth
and willing to take the risks. For most aquarists that want good growth,
but stable and reliable... 8-12 dKH is ducky, and 350-425 ppm Calcium is
realistic, but both are not to be pushed high at the same time>
The
bummer of it all is that it was about 8 dKH or so and I
added some
baking soda to move it up! Curses! So I assume it will drop over time
then.
<yes my friend... simply let it stray down over days and then
resume normal supplementation>
Ok, I have another question, stupid as
it may be, but here
goes. You mention that calcium gluconate is
great for growing coralline algae, but not good for much else,
correct.
<exactly... corals take up various forms of calcium in
different preferences... under 75 F they also take Strontium to make
strontium carbonate skeletons, over 75 they take Calcium carbonate in
preference, etc>
Does it raise the level of calcium in your tank?
<it does... just not the ideal/usable calcium>
I guess what I am
asking, does it matter what type of
calcium is added to your
tank. Can too much of any type cause the "overflow of marbles" so to
speak and cause a "snowstorm"?
<correct again... although it is
usually only sever if you dose large amount fast, or generally large
amounts over an extended period of time>
If I wanted to get my
calcium up there, but my ph is at 8.3 - 8.4, could I use Calcium
Chloride just once or twice to get the numbers up without using the
buffer ( Ionic A and B, skip the B part ), or is this too dangerous.
<nope... I do believe that would be fine for a quick fix. Exactly as it
was designed for>
thanks Paul
<kindly, Anthony> Re:
Calcium supplement Brands
When I emailed my local fish store to
ask if they had these products that you recommended below they had this
to say:
"I hate Seachem Products. You should be using Reef Former for
Calcium, Sealk for ph and alkalinity, and you also need to use mg up
which is magnesium along with the calcium because calcium cannot be used
by anything without magnesium." Jason Booth Aquatic Realm "The Aquarium
Experts"
<did they explain why they don't like Seachem products? It
may be that they don't have a convenient distributor or that the product
they recommend are more profitable <G>. Perhaps they simply haven't
taken a good enough look at the company. Founded by a chemist... time
tested and proven reputation of the company... extensive research and
development of products as well as quality control... and they invest in
the hobby/industry (aquarium societies, conferences/trade shows). They
are a fantastic business model for a company that makes good products:
period. And I say this as a consumer of their products for over ten
years (and not one free sample <VBG>). >
Is this true? Should I be
using mg?
<it is helpful to test for magnesium although dosing is
minimal if at all for most aquarists doing regular water changes. Mag
levels should basically be about three times calcium levels. So... 400
ppm calcium and 1200 ppm Mg would be fine. Most aquarists that have
fantastic reef tanks, do regular water changes and maintain adequate ALK
and CA... never test for or dose Mg. My advice is in fact to do so
anyway... an inexpensive test and its nice to have another reference
point>
I haven't been so what harm have I done if any?
<likely no
harm at all my friend>
Do you like the products he mentions or is
your opinion to still go with Seachem?
<The NatuReef products he
mentions might be very fine. I've never tried them and am not likely to
in the near future. Seachem is simply a big company with a long standing
reputation for excellence. I like to buy my products from such
companies. That's why I like using Instant Ocean sea salt (and many
agree). Sure there might be salts with slighter higher levels of some
minerals... but Instant Ocean's consistency and quality control is
unmatched. They are the biggest... and they were the pioneers in the
industry. For that they get customer loyalty. >
I put a lot more
value on your opinion than Jason's but wanted to see what you had to say
before I purchased anything. Thanks so much for your help. :)
<quite
welcome... thank you for inviting me to do this infomercial...heehee.
Many fine products out there. Indeed, just make a consensus and pick one
that you can live with. Its sometimes interesting to do a keyword search
on some of the big message boards for these brand names and see which
ones get consistent high marks and which ones have their share of flak.
Kindly, Anthony> Calcium
Just wanted to get your
thoughts, pros cons, on using SeaChem's liquid "reef complete" and "reef
calcium" to increase and maintain calcium levels.
<I would not use
liquid calcium chloride (reef complete) to raise and maintain calcium
from ANY brand! There are serious complications down the road from doing
this (accumulated Chloride ions skewing Ca/ALK dynamic causing precip).
Calcium Chloride is a temporary calcium fix when needed fast without a
pH rise. Kalkwasser has so many more benefits anyway. Reef Calcium on
the other hand is a sugar based calcium (gluconate) and although still
useless for Ca levels and coral growth... it is OUTSTANDING for
coralline algae growth. I highly recommend the use of SeaChem's Reef
Calcium with Kalkwasser or a calcium reactor for good coralline algae
and coral growth>
I read and hear that the best way to do it is by
using Kalkwasser for different reasons,
<absolutely correct! Many
advantages including phosphate precip, saponification (improving
skimmate production), protecting ALK, etc)>
but I'm trying to avoid
setting up a limewater drip system.
<HA... too bad... deal with it
kid :) Actually... a Ca reactor would be too expensive here understood.
Do consider my Kalk slurry method. Detailed in my book of coral
propagation and discussed at length on Reefcentral's message board (do a
simple keyword search) or look into our archives on Calcium. Many other
great things to learn about calcium in the WetWebMedia archives and
FAQs>
I have a fairly small tank, 46 gallon. Thanks, Angelo<best
regards, Anthony Calfo> Calcium
Just wanted to get your
thoughts, pros cons, on using SeaChem's liquid "reef complete" and "reef
calcium" to increase and maintain calcium levels.
<I would not use
liquid calcium chloride (reef complete) to raise and maintain calcium
from ANY brand! There are serious complications down the road from doing
this (accumulated Chloride ions skewing Ca/ALK dynamic causing precip).
Calcium Chloride is a temporary calcium fix when needed fast without a
pH rise. Kalkwasser has so many more benefits anyway. Reef Calcium on
the other hand is a sugar based calcium (gluconate) and although still
useless for Ca levels and coral growth... it is OUTSTANDING for
coralline algae growth. I highly recommend the use of SeaChem's Reef
Calcium with Kalkwasser or a calcium reactor for good coralline algae
and coral growth>
I read and hear that the best way to do it is by
using Kalkwasser for different reasons,
<absolutely correct! Many
advantages including phosphate precip, saponification (improving
skimmate production), protecting ALK, etc)>
but I'm trying to avoid
setting up a limewater drip system.
<HA... too bad... deal with it
kid :) Actually... a Ca reactor would be too expensive here understood.
Do consider my Kalk slurry method. Detailed in my book of coral
propagation and discussed at length on Reefcentral's message board (do a
simple keyword search) or look into our archives on Calcium. Many other
great things to learn about calcium in the WetWebMedia archives and
FAQs>
I have a fairly small tank, 46 gallon. Thanks, Angelo<best
regards, Anthony Calfo> Calcium supplement
What brand of
calcium supplement would you recommend for live rock?
<for coralline
growth only I really like Seachem's Reef Calcium (an organic sugar-based
calcium gluconate). Simply outstanding for growing coralline algae
(pink/purple, etc). 4 months of faithful use and it will look like a
whole new tank :) For coral growth however, Kalkwasser supported by
proper alkalinity (buffer) is recommended when a calcium reactor is not
possible/present. I use a Knop calcium reactor from General Aquatics for
convenience but still like Kalkwasser very much. Best regards, Anthony>
Elizabeth K. Birdwell Another question about Calcium
Bob, Thanks for all of your help over the years, I hope you know you are
appreciated! Anyhow, I am at a crossroads with making a decision on
Calcium Supplementation. I am sure you have heard this before but the
issues as I see them are:
1) I could set up a top off system,( which
I will be doing in any case) and buy/make and Nilsen reactor. Obviously,
PH is an issue and as a natural combatant of Phosphates, this may be a
nice option.
<and one that I favor strongly>
2) Do a freshwater
top off but supplement Calcium with a Calcium Reactor.
This option
obviously has some nice features in that trace elements, Alkalinity and
Calcium levels will be maintained. This seems to be a more automated
solution.
<yes... but even Daniel Knop of Knop reactors like most
experienced aquarists recognize and/or advocate Kalkwasser
supplementation to reactors which are predominantly Alkalinity
generators>
The real question becomes, can an automated Kalkwasser
delivery system provide everything that the reactor will?
<they are
separate... Kalk/Lime provides calcium only and protects the buffering
pool of alkalinity by virtue of its caustic nature (high pH). Reactors
are predominantly for raising alkalinity although they certainly do
contribute measurably to calcium levels. Aquaria with the fastest
growth, if this is your goal, employ both. Do review our Archives and
article by Jason C on this subject>
I am assuming I will need to
supplement a Alkalinity buffer with Limewater only.
<agreed>
I
know you can do both and maybe that is the best of both worlds.
<very wise my friend!>
I would love to hear your opinion on the
issues. Thanks! Adam
<you know all that you need to continue on this
wonderful journey! Kindly, Anthony Calfo> Calcium
Bob,
<Actually, Steven Pro right now.>
I did some studying and I have been
able to maintain 3.0 meq/l of Alk and a pH of 8.2. Over a five day
period I have been able to maintain the above parameters. I tested
everyday and my SG is 1.023. My calcium has depleted form 350 ppm to
300, there is not a heavy amount of fish or invertebrates. I would like
to raise the calcium without lowering my Alk. Would a Kalkwasser drip be
good enough to maintain a 350-400 ppm of calcium? Thanks
<Kalkwasser
is my current preferred method. -Steven Pro> Calcium
supplements
Hey fellas! What's up?
Just a quick question,
what's y'alls opinion of Bio calcium by Tropic Marin?
<A very good
product>
Is it better/as good as Kalkwasser mixes?
<Mmm, better
IMO>
It sure is a lot easier to use! I have been using it for a while
now and it seems to be working good, just wanted to know what y'all
think. Also, I would like to know if you think I could keep SPS corals
healthy in my system, I have a 70 gallon tank with 440 watts of VHO
lighting, 70 lbs of 9year old live rock and an old CC skimmer powered
with a Tetra Luft pump.
<I might renew/replace some of the old live
rock... otherwise you're ready>
I have been keeping corals for almost
10 years but have never tried SPS before. I have had several people tell
me that you must have MH lighting for these animals, yet other people
such as GARF) do not seem to have this opinion!?
<Neither do I. Am
familiar with folks who make a living culturing corals using PCs>
What do y'all think? Also, one last thing, for the last 4 years I have
been using a home made wave maker Radio Shack-$25.00) with good results
set at 15 second intervals running 4 pumps,2 high, 2 low in rockwork,
but have lately been reading about how bad laminar flow is for tanks,
any suggestions on reconfiguring what I currently have or should I buy
some sweeping powerheads, and if I do, should they be on a
timer/wavemaker as well or just plugged in?
<Mmm, should be fine
either way... as long as the water flow/force isn't overpowering
whatever life you have it directed at>
Y'all have a great site and do
a great service of separating Bunk from Knowledge!
Thanking you in
advance,
Joshua Scialdone
P.S.
Guess this was more than one
simple Question! Ha Ha Ha
Thanks Again,
Joshua
<Be chatting
Josh. Bob Fenner> Calcium Additions
What's up guys? I
have a 75gal fish only setup and just recently added my first live rock
(only 20lbs.). Should I be adding a calcium buffer?
<Before adding
any supplement for calcium, you need to have a test kit. You must
monitor your calcium levels and trends in relation to your dosing.>
What level should I keep calcium at?
<350-500 ppm depending on
alkalinity level.>
Do I continue to use my PH buffer (8.3) with water
changes?
<Same as above with calcium. Your test kit will tell you
whether you need to or not.>
Thanks, Mark
<You are welcome.
-Steven Pro> Ca Chloride and 2-part Additive Question
Hello there, I have read that Ca Chloride is "bad" for my tank, in the
long run.
<Yes>
I use a two-part additive called Oceans Blend,
which lists chloride as one of its ingredients, but it's mixed with a
ton of other elements (essential elements, carbonate, etc) and appears
to be "balanced."
<Correct>
When the literature/FAQ's state that
chloride is bad, are they referring to things like Turbo Ca, which is
just Ca Chloride (i.e., additives that are Ca Chloride only)
<Yes>
or do they mean anything with chloride in it?
<No, actually your salt
mix has chloride in it. It is all about balance. These two part
formulations are designed to add calcium and carbonate along with many
other things.>
If so, do other 2-parts like B-Ionic contain chloride?
<Yes>
I have read good things about this product and may switch if
this is a safer additive. BTW, I'm gonna throw this question out to the
chat forum section on the site to get more input. I hope this is not
considered rude/bad etiquette.
<No, we always recommend other seek
more advise and knowledge so they can make their own informed decision.>
Thanks a bunch, -RY
<You are welcome. P.S. Your question shows you
are reading and thinking a lot. Kudos to you. -Steven Pro> Is
there a big difference in the effectiveness of using a calcium reactor
compared to using, lets say, "C-Balance" liquid calcium additives?
>>
Yes, huge differences... the calcium reactor works to adjust pH,
alkalinity and biomineral (depending on the feeder stock you use... just
calcium to strontium, magnesium and more in addition) continuously...
The two part additives, liquid calcium additives... can only hope to
approximate these balanced needs... In particular is the paradox of
increasing calcium at the expense of decreasing alkalinity... with the
additive game... A few years from now, all serious marine aquarists will
have calcium reactors.
Bob Fenner Calcium low
Hi my
name is John, I know Mike Kaechele from Scripps hospital who says he is
a friend of yours (Sorry if I did not spell his last name right). I have
a question about my 55gal reef tank. It has low calcium levels
(270-300ppm). It has about 45-50 pounds of live rock in it with three
hard corals in it (frog spawn, torch, and a plate coral). I checked the
magnesium levels and it was a little low so I raised it up a little
(1100 ppm to 1300ppm) and I am drip feeding Kalkwasser into the tank
nightly and sometimes daily. I just brought the magnesium up about a
week ago so I am thinking to give more time or there just maybe to many
organisms sucking it down as fast as I put it in. Can you please let me
know what you think.
Thanks John
>>
Nice to meet you. About
how did/are you elevating the magnesium concentration? If by means of
Epsom salt (MgSO4), you should keep adding this... slowly. The
Kalkwasser additions by night should show more increase with time... but
I'm concerned about the ancillary effects of low alkalinity... Do us the
favor of reading through the articles and FAQ files on our site: Home
Page to gain an understanding of the antagonistic effects of these
phenomena... and we'll chat.
Bob Fenner Re: calcium low
Thanks for responding back. Yes I used Epsom salt and yes I did it very
slowly. As for the alk levels they are about 8-10 dKH...
Thanks John
>>
Ah, well am I answered. All sounds fine.
Bob Fenner
Alkalinity/Calcium relationship
Hey Bob, I hope everything is
well with you.
I have read your responses and information regarding
alkalinity and calcium level issues, but I still have a question
regarding my system - my calcium levels are testing in the 480 to 500
ppm range, but my alkalinity is still in the 2.5 to 2.75 meq/l range.
How should I raise the alkalinity level without further increasing the
calcium level?
<A few things could be done...>
I have recently
purchased the two part Kent Marine A & B products, but I am now afraid
to use this since my calcium levels are high. Baking soda?
<The "B"
is ostensibly this...>
If so, how much?
<Try a teaspoon per ten
gallons... mixed in with system water... drip about half in and
re-measure/test...>
What about the SeaChem marine buffer 8.3 ph
product?
<A good mix of carbonates, bicarbonates...>
I have a 92
gallon reef set up with 5 small fish, cleaner shrimp, various clean-up
crew members, and 5 hardy type corals. My tank is about 8 months old and
has maintained good consistent water parameters otherwise.
Thank you!
<You're likely aware of my liking of calcium reactors (calcium carbonate
et al. stocks melted down by carbonic acid/carbon dioxide in solution...
this is the single best method of achieving the ends you seek (stable,
optimized pH, biomineral content and alkalinity)... For alkalinity
alone, you want to add, slowly a mix of carbonates, bicarbonates (not
just the latter through baking soda in the long haul)... can be added
through compounds that contain both (as in one/two part products made
in/for the trade/hobby... or you can buy/administer the same
materials... A few co-factors do help... skimming, water changing, a
dearth of feeding, adequate light/photosynthesis, ozone use/UV use...
aeration/circulation...
Bob Fenner> Calcium level
what is the correct calcium level for salt water.
<Depends on a few
factors...types of livestock, what you're trying to do with them... but
somewhere between 350-400ppm>
also, i bought a bottle of calcium
chloride, is this ok to use.
<Can be... to initially boost free
calcium... not safe to use to move all at once, continuously...>
also, is Kalkwasser the best additive for calcium, or is liquid calcium,
like what i bought ok. thank you
<Best? None at all... somewhere
between... calcium reactors of a few designs... You need to study my
friend... not ask questions here... Do get/read over some of the current
text works in the field of marine aquarium keeping, join a listserv on
the net... read over the WWM site... these basic questions are all
answered more completely on the stated forums. Bob Fenner>
Calcium (additives, alternatives)
Hi Bob,
Here's another
version of the bazillion dollar question for you. Tank:
90gal, 90lbs
LR, 80lbs cc, 30gal sump w/ DSB and Caulerpa, amm, nitrite 0, nitrate
10ppm, 80F, 1.023, (tank is fallow, will raise temp and lower salinity
soon), ph 8.4, alk 3.4 meq/l, ca 250-300. Tank inhabitants include 2
cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, snails and hermits, 1 leather
toadstool, some polyps and mushrooms. I'm trying to boost coralline
growth.
I'm adding C-balance to try to raise my calcium levels, which
have never gone higher than 300. I've tried a large water change to try
to "re-center" my system. Would it be a good idea to add calcium
chloride in addition to the 2-part ca/buffer solutions?
<Yes...
worth trying... a bit at a time... like a half gram or so>
Or use the
calcium chloride alone until I get desired ca levels, then use the
C-balance?
<Better to use a little of both>
Isn't it basically
the same as the "part A" of the C-balance?
<To a good extent yes...
I might also experiment with the addition of an ounce or so of baking
soda (sodium bicarbonate) per day>
I have access to calcium chloride
dehydrate. How much of this should I add to say, 1 gal of water before
dripping into my system? Sorry, for the book. I know you recommend ca
reactors, but I need a temporary solution I can use while I save up the
$400 bucks or so needed for the reactor. Thanks.
<As Captain Jean Luc
might say, "Make it so". Bob Fenner> Re: Calcium
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply. Forgot to mention, but yes, I will also add
baking soda along with the calcium chloride to keep up my alk levels. I
will also be testing for ph, ca and alk throughout the whole process.
<Ah, certainly>
Another question, if calcium chloride combined with
baking soda is basically the same as the 2 part ca/buffer additives,
what's the benefit to using the more expensive 2 part additives?
<Hmm, there are some other compounds... a bit of borate, calcium
carbonate... finely ground, proportionalized, neatly bottled and
labeled... As with other chemical products, a matter of convenience,
cost>
Wouldn't regular water changes replenish all the remaining
minerals provided by the additives?
<Yowzah! This is a bold
statement... and true, given "enough water change"... as in "lots"... We
can carry on this discussion if you'd like>
I'm just trying to
get
a clearer understanding of what I'm putting into my system. Thanks for
helping me get "there".
<You are expanding your consciousness in
important ways here my friend. Don't allow your mind in terms of
feelings to become fixated. Bob Fenner>
Calcium conundrum 8.10.05
Hello, crew. I love the site. I've gotten SOOO much good stuff from
you guys! Anyways, I'm writing to see if you guys can shed some light on
what appears to be conflicting information on calcium
supplementation. To start off, we have three tanks -- 46 gal reef, 11
gal nanoreef for a mantis, and just revving up a 120 gal FOWLR. The two
reef tanks are happy and healthy with respect to Ca/Alk (Ca around 350,
Alk around 3.5 meq/L, pH 8.1-8.3),
<Good readings... but no lower on
the pH please for invert tanks. Many corals are irritated by flat pH>
and the FO is getting there (just finishing cycling). My concern is over
the product(s) you guys recommend for maintaining calcium/alk. The LFS
(Aquatics Warehouse in San Diego -- NICE place) suggests Reef
Builder/Reef Complete along with SeaChem buffer as needed. We used this
successfully for about a year, but then I read that you guys really
frown upon the use of calcium chloride (the primary ingredient of Reef
Complete).
<Correct... when used as a principal means of
calcium supplementation in tanks that do not get very large, regular
water changes. Moreover, other Ca supplements like common Calcium
hydroxide have other benefits that are well documented>
So, we
switched to Reef Calcium (calcium gluconate)... but then I read from you
that it doesn't do squat for coral growth (although it says so on the
bottle?).
<An exaggeration... but yes, you will find I
think that a tank using polygluconate with not grow corals as fast as
with calcium hydroxide or a calcium reactor. The Gluconate is very good
for coralline algae growth, however>
I'd rather not handle Calcium
Hydroxide directly if I can help it.
<Really... its no more
dangerous than any of a number of other reef or household chemicals>
Looking at SeaChem's other products, I see "Reef Advantage Calcium", but
that seems to be just Reef Complete (although I've seen this product
recommended in the FAQs by some of the crew members). Various
"two-part" systems say that they contain "balanced ionic calcium" but
don't give more details.
<The two-part supplements are very fine
assuming you start with a tank that is already in balance (or do a very
large water change to return the tank to balance>
Can you help clear
this up? If you were to pick a liquid or powdered Ca supplement for
systems with relatively light calcium intake loads (soft corals, a few
LPS), what would it be?
<I'd choose a good two-part supplement if I
had to use liquid>
Thanks! Dan
<Best regards, Anthony>
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