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FAQs on Calcium, Supplements involving Calcium,
Rationale/Use/Importance
Related Articles: Calcium, The Use of Kalkwasser by Russell Schultz, Understanding
Calcium & Alkalinity, Live Sand,
Marine Substrates, Reef
Systems,
Refugiums, Related FAQs:
Calcium, FAQs 1, Calcium, FAQs 2, Calcium
FAQs 3, Calcium FAQs 4,
Calcium FAQs 5, Calcium FAQs 6,
Calcium FAQs 7, & FAQs on Calcium:
Calcium Measuring/Test Kits, Sources of
Calcium, Calcium Supplements,
Dosing, Chemical/Physical Interactions,
Troubleshooting/Fixing, &
Calcium and Alkalinity, Calcium
Reactors, & FAQs
on Calcium Reactors:
Rationale/Use, Selection,
Installation, Operation,
Media, Measuring,
Trouble-Shooting, By Makes/Models,
& Kalkwasser, &
FAQs on: The Science of Calcium & Alkalinity,
Importance, Measure,
Sources, Use of Additives, Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Products, |
Both biominerals (mainly Calcium and Magnesium) AND alkalinity
(principally carbonates and bicarbonates) are essential for
biomineralizing growth and life.
There is nothing wrong with a
Calcium concentration of 300-350, even lower... with "all else" in
balance... Really. |
R2: Refugium Macroalgae, Calc. use, alg. contr. – 08/14/08
Hi Eric!
<<Hi Jennifer!>>
Thank you so much for the wealth of
information and reaffirming what I've read about carbon.
<<Ahh…my
pleasure>>
I keep a sponge in the bottom of the refugium to
colonize bacteria for QT so carbon is not needed is that area. I'll
try to raise the pH. I think I've read that increasing the calcium
will help in the algae area...is this true?
Jennifer
<<Calcium
itself won’t affect nuisance algae growth, that I am aware. A
calcium source like Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser) will precipitate
Phosphate which can help to “starve out” the nuisance algae, but I
don’t feel simply bumping up Calcium levels with something like
Calcium “Chloride” for example, will have a malaffect on the
nuisance algae. In fact, the accumulation of Chloride ions may well
have just the opposite affect if it depresses pH. Cheers, EricR>>
Calcium Use/Supplementation (Never A Matter Of Just Dumping Some In)
8/14/08
Whoa...guess I've got some research to do on calcium.
<<Research is always good [grin]…and best if collected from
divergent sources. Do also read-up and understand the correlation of
this bio-mineral with your systems Alkalinity and Magnesium
content…which by the way, can be affected in differing ways by the
“type” of Calcium supplement utilized (e.g. – Kalkwasser use can
result in lowered Magnesium levels). Don’t misunderstand; I feel
Kalkwasser as well as the aforementioned Calcium Chloride from our
previous exchange both have a place/use in the hobby, but use of
these; or any other supplement, without understanding its effect on
your system is dangerous. Here’s a few links to get you started:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mgmarfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caalksci.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caphyschem.htm >>
Can I use calcium
hydroxide even if I don't have a Kalkwasser?
<<Mmm, did you mean
to say a “Kalkwasser reactor?” The answer to that would be…yes! If
you don’t have a reactor, I think it is best to supplement
Kalkwasser using the “drip method” to replace evaporation…but
another way is to use what is called the “slurry method” which
involves adding a small amount of Kalkwasser (e.g. – 1/4tsp to
start) to cup of RO water, whisk briskly, and add all to the tank.
Both methods require careful monitoring of pH (best done with an
electronic meter in my opinion) to preclude effecting too great a
rise. Here’s another link to more info and opinions re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/kalkh2ofaqs.htm >>
Thanks for all of
your help, Eric!! Jennifer
<<Happy to share! EricR>> |
Quick Calcium Question? (And a Start On The Road To Enlightenment?) –
02/06/08
Hi people.
<<Greetings, person>>
Howzit?
<<Hanging in there…>>
As always, thank you for your help over the
years.
<<Quite welcome…is quite the collective effort here>>
Quick
calcium question. I have a month old 72g reef that is using 40g of 5
month old reef water (upgraded the size of tank ). When taking care of
the 46g reef I had trouble getting calcium over 400. Dosed as needed.
<<A common, and commonly misunderstood, situation>>
Never stayed
above 400 for very long.
<<Did you ever check the magnesium level?>>
When I set up the 72 I used the same salt, same makeup water, DID NOT
DOSE with anything. Just made up about 40g of new reef water. Now, a
month after running, the calcium is just above 500.
<<You did state
above that you brought over 40g of water from the old system…was likely
“saturated” with Calcium from the dosing>>
Alk is 9.1.
<<dKH I
presume? Is best to be near the bottom end of the acceptable scale here,
as you are>>
I know ALK and calcium are dependent on each other
<<Not so much dependent as are mutually exclusive of each other…but I
think that is what you are getting at>>
so do I just dose alk slowly
until the calcium drops?
<<Mmm, no… In fact, I would let the
Alkalinity drop a bit further (closer to 8 dKH) to try to preclude a
precipitous event>>
Is 500 okay?
<<Higher than desired in my
opinion…but should be okay for the short-term if you don’t do anything
to boost Alkalinity>>
I do have clumpy sand which I stir every Sunday
when doing the water change.
<<You possibly have micro-fine
crystalline precipitation occurring (too fine to see). Be sure to
check/adjust/maintain your Magnesium level to preclude a more overt
reaction as a deficiency of this ion may facilitate precipitation of
Calcite (Calcium)>>
Is clumpy sand harmful??
<<Only in the sense
that it impedes the movement of infauna, as well as efficacious
bacterial colonization, and subsequently the biological functions of the
sand bed>>
Hint: As of now I have no calcium needing animals, just
trying to get that coralline.
<<And another important reason to
ensure a “balance” of Calcium, Magnesium, and Alkaline elements…perhaps
a large water change is in order…>>
It will be a SPS and a few LPS
tank. Got the Hamilton 2x250, so the plans are there. Last question...do
I want to keep it at 500 so that when I do get some SPS's there’s
plenty? Or do you just always want to shoot for 450?
<<Though popular
among so called “SPS keepers” to keep Calcium levels greatly elevated, I
don’t consider it necessary, nor is it often particularly easy to
accomplish safely. Mimicking NSW levels as closely as possible for all
Alkaline/Bio-mineral content is my suggestion. At the least, you need to
have a thorough understanding of their role and relationships to one
another. Please start reading here and follow the links in blue for
further information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >>
Please enlighten me.
<<I hope to have made a start>>
Thanks.
<<Regards, EricR>> Calcium levels 12/6/06
<Greetings, Mich here.>
How long can corals maintain sound health in
water with diminished calcium levels ?
<All
depends...type of coral ...soft versus stony, how low is the actual
calcium level, levels of other minerals in the water... lots of
variables.>
I keep hearing hobbyists refer to calcium levels as a
lifeline for invertebrates. I realize the importance of calcium as a
building block, and its' key role in water chemistry, but reports of
mortality due to short-term drops in calcium levels seams implausible.
Knee jerk reactions to this "falling sky" lead to yo-yo water chemistry,
in both senses of the term "yo-yo".
<I would tend to
agree. Stability and consistency can't be overrated. -Mich>
Is Calcium also important for fish only tanks?
If I setup fish
only tank (with DSB and live rock) is supplementing with Ca also
necessary?
What is the LEAST amount of Ca that fish will tolerate?
What about soft corals... do they need high Ca levels, just like stony
corals?<Have found a some articles that should help you with the calcium
questions http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2003/chem.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/apr2002/chem.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2002/chem.htm >
Thank
you,<IanB>
Luke Stupid problem, Calcium Snowstorm
<Anthony Calfo in your service... Bob is participating in some bizarre
human taco competition>
Apparently I was getting false low readings
from Salifert ph test and added more buffer to raise ph. An apparent
calcium fallout occurred and I lost a few soft corals.
<very sorry
to hear it. Try being neurotic like me and test redundantly with
different brand test kits <wink>>
Then, the crabs, snails, and shrimp
began to become immobile. The ph is about 8.6 and the alkalinity is thru
the roof.
<"the solution to pollution is dilution">
I have done
5% water changes for each of the past 3 days with no measurable decrease
in those parameters.
<nowhere near enough water exchange, my friend>
I have discontinued Kalkwasser and the calcium has dropped to about
150.
<alas... the double edged sword to a precipitous snowstorm...
to add more would fuel the reaction... need to dilute the carbonates,
goombah>
I thought it best not to worry about the calcium level until
the ph comes down to at least 8.4 and the alkalinity comes down.
<not exactly... the pH is irrelevant and best if near 8.6 by day (8.3 by
night)... what you need is to dilute the alkalinity. That will not come
down naturally without calcium as your calcifying animals need both for
skeletogenesis. There is the crux of the dilemma.>
I am afraid of
another calcium fallout. I have some Seachem liquid reef calcium and
their reef alkalinity liquid. The inverts are doing better, but the
corals still are distressed. No bacteria infections yet--thank god--but
I want to remove the stress ASAP. The fish are unfazed.
<good to
hear>
The tank is 100 gal with good flow, skimmers, etc. and has been
running fully stocked for about a year with no problem. Before this
problem things were growing and breeding (mushrooms, shrimp, damsels).
Please advise and thanks for your time.
<yes...do serious water
changes until your alkalinity is closer to 11-12 dKH. Only then should
you resume Kalkwasser and/or liquid calcium to get free calcium levels
up. Use baking soda very sparingly in between to keep your pH above 8.3
Kindly, Anthony Calfo> Calcium (and iodide/iodine)
hello
guys,
I have a quick question. am a bit confused about the difference
between iodide and iodine as supplements for my shrimp.
<different
forms in solution. Iodide is "safer", Lugol's solution is a nutritive
Iodine and more potent. Bob favors iodide, I favor Lugol's (iodine mixed
with iodide)>
calcium, do ya need it or does the sand, shells, etc in
tank supply it..
<depends on draw from inverts in the tank... if low
demand, water changes will bring enough in ... but do get a calcium test
kit and aim for 350-450 ppm (the low end is fine)>
thanks a lot. I
only have two clowns two snails and two cleaner shrimp......Jennifer
<ahhh...yes. Save your money for now on supplements. A small weekly
water change will give you these benefits and so much more. Anthony>
Re: calcium reactor FOWLR
One more question. Can I use a calcium
reactor that is rated for less than my size tank since I don't have a
large calcium user in the tank (FOWLR). Instead of the 'pro' units that
handle the 400 gallon tank, was wondering if I could get the 200g rated
units instead ? Thanks
<indeed it is all and only dependent on your
daily demand for calcium and carbonates in the system. Don't
underestimate the need for calcium by calcareous plants, sponges and
algae (like corallines!!!) on the rock. You may not be as safe as you
think. Do tests with a Ca test kit to determine your tanks actual needs
before making this decision>
Jim
<kindly, Anthony> Best
Method of Calcium Supplementation for Soft Corals
Hello Bob and
crew,
I met you when you (Bob) spoke at the Desert Marine Society
meeting a couple of months ago. I have a 2 month old 70 gallon reef tank
with 100 lbs of Fiji LR, a Prism Pro Protein skimmer, about 2-3 inches
of fine aragonite, power compact lighting, good water movement. Anyway,
after a lot of thinking and research I have decided to keep only soft
corals (and a few peaceful fish) in this tank. Regarding water
chemistry, I use a RO/DI water with a very high quality salt mix. I age
the water for a week with an air stone in the barrel between water
changes. I do about a 10% water change weekly.
<Very good.>
At
this point I dose daily with Iodine but have not been adding
supplemental calcium because of conflicting information regarding the
need to do so when keeping only soft corals.
<Even soft corals use
calcium for there sclerites.>
When I test for Calcium and Alk, my
levels are in the range typical for seawater but not in the higher
ranges recommended for coral reef tanks (I apologies it don't remember
the exact levels and my log is at home as I write this).
<Glad to
hear you have a log book. Actual numbers would be helpful, but I will
give you some suggestions based on the assumption you are around 300 ppm
Calcium and 3 meq/l or 7 dKH (the lower end of the acceptable ranges).>
So, my question is should I be supplementing calcium?
<Probably,
yes.>
If so what is the best way to do so with my system?
<I would
use ESV's B-Ionic two-part system. It is not cheap, but very easy and
you do not have a high demand in your tank (should not be using too
much). Be sure to continue to test, monitor, and track the trends of
calcium and alkalinity.>
I should also tell you that I don't have a
sump and do not plan to add one to this tank any time soon.
Thank you
very much for your help! Pam
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Calcium Supplements
Bob,
re: Should I be testing for Ca to see
if I NEED to supplement?
<If your animals require it, yes>
I have
4 fish (2 percula clowns, a yellow tang and the engineer goby), live
rock with macro algae, a bunch of assorted crabs and snails.
Is
calcium important for these types of animals? If so, what level of Ca
should I try to maintain?
<For the fishes, yes indirectly... in
concert with other minerals, calcium serves to maintain pH,
alkalinity... overall chemical balance. For the algae and invertebrates
much more directly yes>
On source I have suggests that it is
important and that a level of 450 ppm is good. Do you agree?
<Hmm,
yes... please see the www.WetWebMedia.com site re "Calcium"... anywhere
between about 350-400 ppm is fine... too much less or more is
undesirable. Bob Fenner>
Thanks, John
Calcium at 350 a bad thing?? I think not - 7/23/05
Good morning
WWM crew:
<Mornin' amigo, Ali here>
Thanks so much for a great
forum that has helped me so many times I've lost count. Ok now to my
question for today. I have a 72gal bow front with 110 lbs of live rock,
Remora Pro hang on skimmer and UV sterilizer unit (believe it or not the
UV has saved me a couple of times). I did a full water param.s check
last night and it looks like this:
SG: 1.025
PH: 8.3
ALK:
Normal (my kit doesn't give me numbers)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
PO4: 0.05
CA: 350
<Not bad..>
Note the low
number in the calcium department. I have tried several products to get
the CA up to 400 or a little better to no avail.
<What's the big
deal about going above 400ppm?>
I have used Purple Up, Seachem Reef
Calcium, and Kent calcium products. The number never seems to go above
350.
<As long as your calcium readings are stable at 350ppm you are
good to go. Full blown Acroporid reef systems, maintained at 300ppm can
experience phenomenal growth, coloration, etc. etc. Point being - you
don't need to have super high readings of calcium to properly maintain a
healthy reef aquarium. Especially if your system contains mainly Soft
corals and perhaps a few 'LPS' corals. The key to the whole thing is
stability. If you can successfully maintain your calcium readings at
350ppm, it would be far better than having readings of 400 one week, 300
another week, 500 the week after, down to 250 the next. A stable 350ppm
calcium reading is nothing you should be too worried about. As of now,
focus more energy in a means to bring your phosphate levels completely
down to zero.>
My Toadstool Leathers really don't polyp as often as
they
should. They spend most of the time looking like a leather pad,
and recently a couple of branches on my Torch Coral died off. I also
noticed my very large button polyp rock is now dieing off too. The rest
of the corals are doing fine.
<This has nothing to do with your
calcium readings whatsoever. Keep your fish bioload low, increase water
change frequency with clean RO/DI water and relax a bit with all of the
additives. A good two-part calcium/alk. supplement such as C-Balance or
B-ionic is all that you need.>
Can you recommend a good calcium
product that will help me increase the number. Also can you offer advise
on helping the leathers look healthier.
<Increased water
circulation/current, followed by the above recommendations will go a
long way.>
Thanks in advance ...
Ray
<No sweat Ray, good
luck and keep researching my friend. - Ali>
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