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FAQs on Calcium Reactors 5
Related Articles: Calcium,
Understanding Calcium & Alkalinity,
Kalkwasser,
Calcium Reactors,
Related FAQs: Calcium Reactors 1, Calcium
Reactors 2, Calcium Reactors 3,
Calcium Reactors 4,
& FAQs on Calcium Reactors: Rationale/Use,
Selection, Installation,
Operation, Media,
Measuring, Trouble-Shooting,
By Makes/Models, &
Calcium and Alkalinity, & FAQs on: The
Science of Calcium & Alkalinity, Importance,
Measure, Sources,
Use of Additives, Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Products,
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Toxic tank, Contaminated Calcium Reactor Media 2/12/07
I have had toxic tank syndrome for 8 months now. My pulsing Xenia starts
to turn black in less than 24 hours. All SPS corals had to be removed from my
180 gallon 5 year old tank. Lost some fish, scooter blenny, mandarin, Rainford
goby.
<Yikes... so, what have you done re the toxicity?>
To make a long story short, I changed water like crazy, searched everything
for a metal contamination. Could find nothing, so I emptied the system
completely. Cleaned it all out, replaced the sand bed, all rock, everything
out, and refilled with natural sea water. After a week, I put a piece of
pulsing Xenia in last night, and this morning the polyps were starting to turn
black.
I got mad, again, and the only thing I had not done was to empty my calcium
reactor. I put the media in a bowl and searched it. Using a magnet, I found
small flakes of metal of some sort, laced through the media!!!!!!!!!
<Yikes...>
I have not idea how it got there! Not from me! I won't mention a brand name
here.
<I wish you would... My wife, Diana, used to distribute Knop Products in N.
America... their Korallith was/is very pure...>
I will do a 100% water change as soon as possible. I can not afford to
change the rock and sand bed again! What further steps should I
take? Carbon? Poly filters?
<Yes to both of these... this should do it>
Will my new rock and sand be ok?
<Very likely yes>
There are no fish or corals in the tank st this time. All have been moved to
other systems.
Help
Richard
<Thank you for relating your experiences... Will save many others huge headaches
and grief. Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor - 02/11/2007
Hey guys, wanted to start off saying thanks for all the advice you have
given me on my refugium setup for my 30gal mini reef. The refugium is working
nicely and I can see at least 30-40 very large copepods scatter every time I
turn its light on (nice eh)
<Ah yes>
and the macro algae as grow so much in it that I had to pull some out so water
can still flow thru. On to my question: I have been (not admittedly) been dosing
my tank with alk/CA 2 part system and once and a while dripping some Kalk at
night. The tank seems very healthy and I am getting slow grow from the
corals. I wanted to kick things up a notch and also do away with mixing Kalk by
adding a Calcium Reactor.
<A useful tool>
The problem is I don't have a sump on the system and the refugium is too small
to fit anything into it, can you recommend how I would set this up as to the
fact that most of the systems I see go into the sump.
<Can be fashioned to "hang on"... best on the refugium>
A side question: I get very small amounts of algae to grow on my rocks, that
never get out of hand and seem to come and go with time. The funny/confusing
thing is that it ONLY seems to grow right at the base of the corals?
<Interesting...>
I have MANY square inches of rock space for it to grow on, it just seems to like
the corals. I don't like it because it makes the corals unattractive for a
while, but does NOT seem to affect them, any ideas? Again thanks, -Gary
<Mmm, w/o knowing much more re your standing water chemistry, am wont to make
any speculations here. You can wade (literally for hours) through various
similarly vague questions/responses archived on WWM re such issues,
circumstances. BobF>
Knop Calcium Reactor Instructions - 02/06/07
I need to find out how to get instructions for a Knop s iv calcium reactor.
Does anyone know how to contact Knop or have the instruction.
<Try writing to: Knop Products, 8586 Menkar Rd., San Diego, CA 92126
<<Actually, contact Marine Depot (.com) re... the U.S. distributor. RMF>>
or if you need
some basic instruction, try a search here on WWM. this is a popular product, and
there have been questions as to it's tuning and adjustment.
-GrahamT>
Thanks
A Ca reactor second chamber 2/5/07
I am running an octopus Cr 100 recirc calcium reactor on my 600 litre heavy
stocked predominantly SPS system. The reactor is rated for 100 litre system
(really dunno why reactors are rated for system volume and not caco3 consumption
rates, but that for another day).
<Good>
The reactor is barely keeping up with my demand for calcium. I recently molded
two gravel siphons into an add on chamber for my reactor. It has the effluent
from my reactor entering through the bottom and after passing through the media,
runs past my probe and drips into the sump.
My alk reading of my effluent went up from 25dKH to 32dKH after doing this.....
Not sure if its because of the new fresh media or increased contact time with
aragonitic media.
<Likely a bit of both>
Should my pH controller be set at a slightly higher pH, as its situated in this
passive reactor?
<Mmm... no... I would leave as is>
Will this second chamber increase my effluent (ultimately tank ) readings for
Calcium?
<I would not be at all surprised it did so... at least at first...>
Would it be advisable to put a small recirculating pump on this chamber as well,
as when i shook it tonight, i noticed a white powdery aragonite settlement at
the bottom, which will surely be more beneficial in the tank than in the
"reactor".
<I would leave this be as well... the "dust" will either go into solution and be
distributed, or not>
Would really appreciate your input.
Thanks for your advice
IVAN
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
pH Level In Calcium Reactor 1/23/07
Hello, and how are you doing. I have a simple question for you if you
don't mind me asking. What should my ph in the calcium reactor be if I am
using CaribSea calcium media. Thank you for your time, patience, and, advice.
<Should find answers to your questions here my friend. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
J.
Blue
Calcium Reactor Adjustment/Potential for Earth Element Overload – 01/23/07
Hi gang,
<<Hello Chuck>>
I just bought a Korallin 1502 calcium reactor for my reef. . .and am seeing
almost immediate improvement in the health/appearance of my corals after an
over-the-holidays stretch of having trouble maintaining calcium/PH.
<<Glad you found a solution to the problems>>
My questions are these:
(1) Since the aragonite media is being dissolved in pressurized-and CO2-enriched
tank water, is it difficult (or preferably impossible) to create a 'snowstorm'
effect as long as I don't add other tank additives which would affect
alkalinity?
<<I think it unlikely as long as the reactor is not grossly oversized for the
system. In other words, if the unit was to provide calcium/alkaline material
faster than the system could utilize it then there might be the potential for
overload...though I can’t say I’ve ever heard of a precipitous event attributed
to the calcium reactor. But even so, these are not “install and forget” pieces
of equipment. You still need to monitor earth element/bio-mineral content and
make adjustments to the reactor as necessary>>
(2) Are some of the other minerals (strontium, magnesium, etc.) which are in the
media being released in bio-available form for use by the corals and other
occupants of my system? (I've heard/read both 'yes' and 'no' on this.)
<<This stands to reason, yes...though content will vary with differing medias
and all elements don’t have the same range/rate of solubility so who’s to say
“how much” of the available elements in the media are being reintroduced. As
with alkalinity/calcium, these to need to be tested periodically and supplement
as/if necessary>>
BTW, after a bit of trouble finding the right CO2 bubble rate vs. effluent drip
rate for best effect on the smaller Korallin model, the tech guys at Marine
Depot advised 15-20 bubbles per minute with about 60 drops of effluent. .
.scaling it back a bit once the desired levels are reached.
<<Good advice this last>>
I bring it up only because it's not something that was in my owner's manual.
<<Thank you for the input>>
Chuck
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>
CA Reactors…Calculating Dissolution - 12/31/06
Good morning,
<<Hello>>
I would like to ask a question pertaining to the "Calcium Reactor without CO2? -
12/14/06" thread.
<<Ok>>
I have been considering the same thing as the original inquiry. I have well
water with a pH of 5.7-5.8 after RO/DI.
<<I see>>
I know enough chemistry to be dangerous, which is not much. I seem to remember
it would be possible to calculate the amount of Ca liberated by raising the pH
from a given point to the point it will no longer react with the media. The
problem is I cannot find the equation anywhere.
Thanks
<<Hmm, don't know what that equation would be either...I'm sure Bob will chime
in if he knows. But so you know, the media will "react" at "any" pH
level...it's just that at the higher pH more bicarbonate has been converted to
carbonate leaving less "room" for the media to dissolve before reaching the
point of saturation where the reaction stops. According to Randy
Holmes-Farley... "At a pH of 6.5, about 50 times less carbonate is present than
in the same solution at pH 8.2"... The difference here being the lower pH
allows "much more calcium" to dissolve before reaching saturation. Regards,
EricR>> <There are solubility product constants... and I do believe/think that
these can be calculated further for different pHs... the KOH for carbonates
being? Perhaps a go with a CRC reference... or trip to a large (college)
library, help at a Chemistry dept... Am out in HI, and too bushed from traveling
to do much more than make these vague generalizations. RMF>
Re: Ca Reactors 1/5/07
thanks for the prompt reply.
any word from Bob.
<Mmm, strange you didn't see this... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/maralkfaq5.htm
about the third response down. RMF>
CA Reactors. Calculating Dissolution - 12/31/06
Good morning,
<<Hello>>
I would like to ask a question pertaining to the "Calcium Reactor without CO2? -
12/14/06" thread.
<<Ok>>
I have been considering the same thing as the original inquiry. I have well
water with a pH of 5.7-5.8 after RO/DI.
<<I see>>
I know enough chemistry to be dangerous, which is not much. I seem to remember
it would be possible to calculate the amount of Ca liberated by raising the pH
from a given point to the point it will no longer react with the media. The
problem is I cannot find the equation anywhere.
Thanks
<<Hmm, don't know what that equation would be either...I'm sure Bob will chime
in if he knows. But so you know, the media will "react" at "any" pH
level...it's just that at the higher pH more bicarbonate has been converted to
carbonate leaving less "room" for the media to dissolve before reaching the
point of saturation where the reaction stops. According to Randy
Holmes-Farley... "At a pH of 6.5, about 50 times less carbonate is present than
in the same solution at pH 8.2"... The difference here being the lower pH
allows "much more calcium" to dissolve before reaching saturation.
Regards, EricR>>
Re: Ca Reactors 1/5/07
Thanks a lot. I had been watching the Ca Reactor FAQ. Anyway I am off to
the library.
Bart
<Real good. Please do report back on your experiences, findings. Bob Fenner>
Is this normal? Knop Reactor... 1/5/07
Happy New Year WetWebCrew! David here, and I need some help with figuring
out if what I'm observing with my Knop S-IV Ca reactor is normal.
When I adjust the drip rate it effects my CO2 bubble rate.
<Mmm... a little maybe... there might be a pressure differential in the contact
chamber that might allow this... but not much>
I siphon from the top of the tank to the reactor sitting on the floor, and it
fills just fine so no impediments there. I start the CO2, and I only have a few
frags, and about 175 lbs of LR in a 150 gal tank, and my bubble rate is already
130/BPM for an effluent of 6.7-6.8
<pH>
with a drip rate of 3 drops/sec. This gives me roughly 8 DKH and 400 Ca and an
overall PH of 8.0 - 8.15.
<Sounds about right>
But, if I adjust the drip rate lower it changes my CO2 rate lower. My leather
coral use to thrive when I was keeping my PH around 8.3 with Seachem additives,
but has slowly shriveled up, and I'm assuming it is because of the lowered
PH. My effluent is 35-36 DKH, and my Ca is 500-520.
<Mmm... too high all the way around>
Maybe I have a bad solenoid or check valve?
<No... just a bad adjustment...>
I suspect there's some pressure in these units, but I didn't expect that it
would do this.
<Mmm, there is a simple means of limiting the pressure to about right... using
the stock tubing provided...>
I've had the reactor for roughly 10 months, and this is the first time I've
noticed it.
<Umm... likely something else going on here... either the concentration/purity
of your CO2 and/or the media you're trying to melt down... You're using
Korallith I take it...>
Also, can't maintain the same DKH and Ca values I once did with less CO2.
<Mmm, see the above>
For example, I used to be able to keep the above values with 30 BPM, and a
drip rate of 2 drop/3 sec's. My bio load hasn't changed, so I'm wondering if
the blue coarse filter pads at either end might cause a decline in efficiency
over time if CO2 is only passing through parts of the blue pad even when
properly rinsed?
<Not these pads... they last forever... ostensibly... Don't need replacing...
just rinsing with the periodic refreshing/re-newing of the media>
I've tried different types of Korallith media, and tried 2 different CO2 bottles
to find any particular source of inconsistency.
<Oh! Good>
Is there
another type of media that is as good as Korallith media IYO?
<Nope, not with this brand, type of reactors>
My hope is (like everyone who has a Ca reactor) to be able to keep a PH of 8.2
to 8.3. If I turn off my reactor at night, I would have an even harder time
maintaining my current values,
<Mmm, I would arrange a timer, not run the reactor during dark hours here>
and I don't want to drip Kalk at night, because I tend to make mistakes with it.
<You and most everyone else>
I don't have room
for a refugium, and I can't use reverse lighting at this point.
What can I use to boost my PH without working against what's already
happening with a Ca reactor?
<Mmm, the simplest, safest way would/will be to add a commercial alkalinity
booster... a part 2 of two part component product... something with sufficient
carbonate... In/with your water change regimen. Bob Fenner>
Thank you,
-David Brown
Calcium Reactor without CO2? - 12/14/06
Hello crew!
<<Howdy!>>
Long time reader, first time writer.
<<Welcome>>
My main question is, is it possible to operate a calcium reactor without CO2
injection?
<<Strictly speaking, sure...but it would be of little use/benefit to your system
if operated in this manner>>
This occurred to me after measuring pH of my RO/DI water and it was 6.5.
<<...? Are you thinking of flowing pure RO/DI water through your calcium
reactor?>>
Does the carbon dioxide itself add alkalinity/provide a balanced calcium
supplement or is the balance already present in the media that is used?
<<The purpose of the CO2 is to lower the pH of the tank water/saltwater used to
feed the reactor to a level low enough to dissolve/render in to solution the
media in the reactor>>
My thoughts were to dose some of my top-off water(6.5 pH) into a reactor via a
peristaltic pump and back to tank.
<<Mmm, I think I'm getting the picture now...maybe... If you are planning to do
this to condition/buffer the "top-off" water on its way to the display this
would be fine>>
Would this dissolve the media or is CO2 a necessary component?
<<The low pH of the RO/DI water will dissolve "some" media...but not like that
in a "conventional" reactor setup with CO2 present to "keep" the pH of the water
depressed>>
I currently use one teaspoon Tropic Marin Bio Calcium daily and dose Kalkwasser
using a peristaltic pump for all top-off water and was hoping to add a balanced
calcium method that does not carry with it the high pH of Kalkwasser or daily
routine.
<<The calcium reactor fed RO/DI water will take the place of the Kalkwasser for
"top-off" only, yes? I don't really think this will give you what you're
seeking...but is worth the experimentation to see for yourself>>
With Kalkwasser dosing (as much as 1 gallon in 24 hrs.),
<<Is all relative...how big is your system? I dose 4-5 gallons per day through
a Kalkwasser reactor>>
I often experience pH levels of 8.5, although no lower than 8.4, even at night;
so very stable, but high(?).
<<Some authors (Anthony Calfo for example) would call this "perfect">>
The possible too high pH and daily routine are the only things that really
concern me about my present methods.
<<I don't consider you pH a problem...and the "daily routine" could be lessened
by using the peristaltic pump to dose the Kalkwasser through a Kalk reactor>>
I should say that the tank is a 50 gallon that inhabits SPS species and Tridacna
clams and typically calcium is 380- 405ppm and alkalinity is 3.20-3.50 meq/L.
<<This is fine>>
I am simply trying to eliminate part of the initial cost of a calcium reactor.
<<Perhaps a Kalkwasser reactor is a better purchase for you then>>
Thank you in advance for your reply.
<<Quite welcome. Eric Russell>>
Re: Calcium Reactor without CO2? - 12/15/06
Yes, was thinking I would continue adding perhaps 80% the amount of
Kalkwasser top-off that I currently dose and dripping the remaining 20% or so
calcium reactor effluent (made with RO/DI water) also.
<<Honestly mate...this seems like more trouble for any benefit you think you
might gain from this. I would simply use the Kalkwasser reactor and calcium
reactor (in the manner originally intended for this equipment) in conjunction
with each other>>
I have seen that it is common practice for one to do both Kalkwasser and calcium
reactor nowadays,
<<...is what I do>>
however I'm guessing that a particular ratio of Kalkwasser/reactor effluent
would be trial and error to achieve the desired results.
<<Hmm...the Kalkwasser reactor would produce based on the evaporation rate of
your system...the calcium reactor (fed water from the display and employing CO2)
would be "tuned" for optimum performance. Whether or not your system
needs/could utilize both depends greatly on the size/stocking density of
calcifying organisms>>
I assumed that the reason one would do this, is to have the low pH reactor
effluent and high pH Kalkwasser balance each other out.
<<No...the reason for running both reactors would be to utilize the particular
benefits of each and/or provide for heavy calcium demands beyond what either can
accommodate alone. In addition to the calcium/alkaline buffers provided by both
systems...Kalkwasser provides for precipitation of phosphate/heavy metals,
saponificaton to assist skimming, and pH support by tempering organic acids (due
to its caustic nature)...a calcium reactor contributes essential earth elements
(depending on quality of media) to include strontium, magnesium, some major and
minor trace elements, etc. absent in calcium hydroxide (Kalkwasser). Arguably
on an "average" system, both methodologies can be replaced with frequent partial
water changes>>
I have also heard some freshwater tanks use calcium carbonate shells to increase
hardness because they dissolve at the lower pH (?)/freshwater(?).
<<Many Cichlid systems incorporate carbonaceous material to boost/bolster pH,
yes>>
This also made me wonder if CO2 may not be needed in a reactor to dissolve the
media.
<<For the reactor to function efficiently as designed it will require addition
of CO2. What you are proposing for buffering you top-off water could be just as
easily; and likely more efficiently, done by adding the reactor media to the
RO/DI storage container...in my opinion>>
I hope I am being clear about my goal (?).
<<I think I understand, yes>>
I wasn't thinking of stopping Kalkwasser additions, just adding a bit of reactor
effluent to knock down the pH a little bit and eliminate the daily routine of
Bio-calcium additions.
<<Mmm...better done by employing the calcium reactor in a "standard"
configuration with tank water and CO2...IMO/E>>
I trust your crew’s advice, as I have lost all faith in the advice I get from my
LFS.
<<A shame>>
I have often read the info on your site for hours on end.
<<Me too! [grin]>>
I had mentioned to one of them that I do a lot of reading to learn about this
hobby and his recommendation was to stop reading and that most of the info out
there is wrong.
<<Ack! Really?>>
I strongly disagree with his ignorance!
<<bravo>>
Enough said. Please let me know if you need more info and if I am sending my
questions to you in the proper way.
<<In the future, do leave the "entire" previous message intact (don't delete the
replies) so we can see who responded to you>>
I only learned how to e-mail about two weeks ago!
<<The age (art?) of technology is upon us...>>
Thank you!
Gary Wallace
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
Calcium Reactor Question - 12/07/06
Good Morning Crew!
<Dave>
I have a couple of questions regarding my Knop S-IV calcium reactor.
The reactor seems to not be circulating the CO2 as well as it should, and
therefore not melting the Korallith media.
<For browsers this is the CaCO3 media by Knop>
How often should you replace the coarse blue filter pads that are at either
end of the reactor?
<Don't ever need to be replaced>
Here's my situation, I've had my reactor set up for about 10 months now on a
tank that was set up at the same time. Other than 175 Lbs. of live rock in my
150 gal tank, and a few coral frags, I don't have much of a calcium
load. Animals seem fine, but for the first few months I was able to maintain my
calcium and alk with a CO2 rate of 30 BPM, and a drip rate of 3 drops every 2
seconds.
<With an effluent pH of?>
I was using the larger coarse 6 -10mm Korallith reactor media. My calcium was
390, and my DKH was 9 -10, and my ph was 8.2 - 8.3. My effluent measured a PH
of 6.7 - 6.8,
<Ah, I see>
DKH of 36 and calcium was 500
<Mmm, okay>
After about 4 months I made an adjustment by accidentally to the needle valve,
and had to go through the slow readjustment process, but I wasn't able to
maintain the same levels as before. I started off slowly with the same PH and
drip rates as before, but the effluent still wasn't strong enough with a DKH of
16 -18 and a calcium of 450, nor was I able to maintain my calcium and alk
levels overall. I seem to deplete about 1-2 DKH/day and 25 or so of calcium per
day, and the effluent levels weren't keeping up.
<Mmm, four months? You very likely just need to replenish the media... or at
least shake/consolidate and add to it>
Now, after slowly adjusted the reactor to a drip rate of 5 drops/sec and 120 BPM
of CO2 with a PH of 6.6-6.7, and changing the media grain size to medium (3-4mm)
am I able to maintain my calcium and alk demand per day, but effluent DKH is
still light (about 16-18 DKH), and calcium around 490. My overall tank levels
are 7-8 DKH, ph 8.10 - 8.20, ca 370, and nitrite, nitrate, phosphate = 0, <1,
.4.
<This is fine... I would not change a thing here>
I see lots of bubbles collecting underneath the blue filter pads in the very
bottom and upper middle of the reactor, and there's a large bubble that collects
under the lid at the top which seems normal, but don't remember ever seeing
bubbles underneath the blue coarse filter pads.
<This is most likely due to impurity/ies in your carbon dioxide... Nitrogen,
Oxygen... less soluble... look to "higher grade" (more pure) CO2 next re-fill>
It seems to me that the reactor isn't circulating the CO2 as well as it should.
<It won't with air trapped in it>
I've tried rinsing out the filter pads a couple of times, but CO2 still
accumulates at the underneath side of the pads.
<Not CO@... this gas is very water soluble...>
I've also tried turning the reactor upside down and right side up again the
get the bubbles to interact with the media some more,
<Good>
but this creates a lot of precipitate to be free floating again, which in turn
saturates the blue filter pads in the second chamber (CO2 filter). I've tried
just rocking it back and forth to get the bubbles to enter the pump which
creates a lot of swirling bubbles in the pump chamber. Something is amiss, can
you suggest anything?
<The CO2 purity>
Should I try dropping the effluent PH to 6.4?
<No, I would not>
Should I replace the blue filter pads or soak them in vinegar?
<... you could, but unnecessary... I'd just rinse them off/out vigorously on the
occasions you have the unit open>
Should I try the fine reactor media?
<Mmm, I would stick with, use the 10mm nominal diameter... 1082 call-out if
memory serves... I've carried several tons of it about...>
I just want to be able to obtain the same effluent levels I had when I first set
it up. I'm also waiting for ph regents so I can calibrate my Pinpoint PH probe
just to make sure of my values.
Thank you,
-David
<Do ask the gas service if they have other grades of CO2... I do believe this is
your principal issue here. Bob Fenner>
Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/07/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Ken!>>
I hope all is well with you.
<<Indeed it is...thank you>>
Things have been going well with the tank, but I have a few questions.
<<Ok>>
The tank is set up 6 weeks now. The few soft corals and star-polyps look good.
<<Excellent>>
I did buy a clean-up crew about 10 days ago. I feel like I should put the
snails on the payroll. In the first two days they cleaned all of the greenish
algae I had on the rocks.
<<Cool!>>
The tank looks good. My nitrate is less than 1-ppm and phosphate is zero using
LaMotte Colorimeter.
<<Very good>>
The pH is usually 8.10 to 8.20 and ORP has been about 415MV.
<<More good news>>
I also have gotten more and more pink coralline algae on some of the rocks. My
first question has to do with that in the last couple of days I am getting areas
of a burgundy color on the rocks.
<<Coralline algae comes in "many" colors>>
It looks to be more on the areas that have some of the pinkish coralline.
<<Conditions in those locations are likely "optimum" for both
species...everything competes for space on the reef>>
Also I notice the burgundy color is all of a sudden on a lot of the turbo
snails.
<<Very common>>
Is this just another color coralline?
<<Indeed it is>>
I am hoping that it is not like red Cyano or something.
<<Can usually tell the difference>>
I don't see this on most of the rocks and none on sand, powerheads, sand etc. I
tried scraping it off with my fingernail and it does come off somewhat. It
doesn't seem as hard as the pink coralline algae.
<<Differences in structure/composition>>
I'm not sure if this is coralline or not.
<<Likely so>>
I would say that I see this burgundy color mostly on places that had pink to
begin with pretty much. My next question has to do with my AGA Mega
Flow. Their isn't really any algae on my rocks or tank, but I do have some
thick greenish layers of it in the overflow box only. Should I leave it their,
or manually remove it, or can I put a couple of my turbo snails in there to eat
it.
<<Can remove or leave, whichever you prefer...I would not put turbo snails in
the overflow box (will probably get there sooner or later anyway, but...) as
they will get in to the overflow pipes and restrict/block flow>>
I thought about snails and overflows but the Durso pipe and the return pipe are
sealed unit and nothing could get in there. What do you think?
<<If you have some kind of "screen" on the Durso then this may be fine>>
By the way, if I manually remove the algae will anything?
<<...?>>
I don't want to spread it around the tank? Also is it possible that this algae
is in its own "container" and it can act like a refugium in a way?
<<Sure...on a very small scale. If nothing else, it is removing nutrients...but
I'll bet close observation will reveal some tiny crustaceans living there as
well>>
My last question and most perplexing and bothersome to me has to do with my
calcium reactor. I have an MTC Pro-Cal calcium reactor. I don't run it all of
the time as my tank is only 6 weeks old and there isn't much in the tank to take
up the Alk and Ca. When my alk gets down to 8dKH, I turn on the CO2 and run it
at 1 bubble per second and the effluent at .02 ml as per the instructions. This
is their starting point.
<<And as good as any>>
I will shut of the CO2 once the alk hits 10 or 11 dKH. My Ca usually is in the
410 to 425 ppm range. The strange thing is that once I run the Ca reactor for a
day or so, I see some of the rock (usually more evident where the coralline
algae is) start to get a whitish tone to it. It does not blow off. Also, and
more importantly, when I take a turkey baster, I can blow off what almost looks
like ash.
<<Sounds as if you may have some carbonaceous material falling out of solution>>
This has happened all three times I ran it.
<<You may want to consider experimenting with different reactor media>>
I was wondering if it was calcium precipitate, but how could it be?
<<Easy enough...the water can only "hold" so much material. Maximizing
alkalinity (11dKH) and calcium (425ppm) over saturates the water with
carbonaceous material. Try test your alkalinity AND calcium after one of these
events...likely BOTH have fallen as a result>>
All of the parameters are in check. I am not using limewater or any additive
and I do 20% water changes weekly with Reef Crystals.
Do you have any ideas?
<<The reactor is probably "too large" for the system (right now anyway) and is
producing to much alkaline and calcium reserve than the tank can "use." I would
turn to one of the two-part alkalinity/calcium supplements for now. Based on
your future stocking levels/specimens, you may find you don't need the reactor>>
By the way, I am using CaribSea Geo Thermal aragonite for the media.
<<Mmm, I see...this product is likely soft/more soluble than others...try
adjusting the reactor effluent to a pH of about 7.0 the next time you use it and
see what results>>
I did buy a Kalk stirrer and plan on using it with my dosing pump and float
switch for top off water once I have the time to set it up in a few days.
<<Proceed with caution here...for now anyway>>
I appreciate your help.
Regards,
Ken
<<Always happy to assist. EricR>>
Re: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning – 12/07/06
Hey Eric,
<<Ken>>
Thanks for the reply.
<<Welcome>>
With regards to the calcium issue, is it possible that my magnesium could be too
low?
<<Testing would tell...but no, this is not the reason your alkalinity rises so
fast when the reactor is operating>>
If so, what supplement do you recommend?
<<I prefer the Seachem product...though “small and infrequent” adjustments can
be made using simple Epsom Salts>>
By the way, the person at MTC said that I should switch to Instant Ocean instead
of Reef Crystals.
<<tomAto-TOMaTO...made/distributed by the same company. But the Instant Ocean
will be fine (is what I use) and will save you a few bucks to boot>>
He said why use salt with all of the extra ingredients in it when you are
supplementing the tank anyway with a Ca reactor? What do you think?
<<The difference in the mixes is of small consequence here...in my opinion>>
Also, I have been doing 20% water change per week.
<<Ah...though water changes are the single best function you can perform, you
might consider reducing this to every 3-4 weeks to better give this “new” tank
time to stabilize/reach a balance between these changes. Once the tank has
“matured” for a year or so, and if stocking levels warrant, you may find you
need to “up” the frequency>>
Do you think this is too much at a time?
<<Too much too often at this stage, yes>>
I can tell you that after the water change, the corals close up for a while and
my ORP drops quite a bit.
<<The salt mix is quite “reactive” and irritates the corals/fish...best to let
newly mixed salt mature for a week or two while being aerated/moved around with
a powerhead>>
All goes back eventually of course.
<<But not without exacting a “toll” in energy used/lost>>
With regards to a two-part supplement, what do you recommend?
<<E.S.V. or C-Balance>>
Do I need to use both parts together to make it work? (Sorry for the dumb
question).
<<Yes...do follow manufacturer’s instructions closely>>
Lastly, wouldn't the addition of limewater as top off and no further
supplementation or Ca reactor work for me at this point as long as I watch the
alk and don't let it go over 11 dKH?
<<You need to monitor both alkalinity AND calcium...these elements are mutually
exclusive at the high end of their ranges, which is why you experience the
precipitation events>>
I am at 7.5 dKH right now.
<<A “tad” low>>
Why did you note to proceed with caution?
<<You are already having problems with high alkalinity and calcium when running
the Ca reactor...utilizing Kalkwasser in conjunction will compound the issue>>
By the way, I evaporate approx 4 or 5 quarts per day right now.
Thanks again.
Regards,
Ken
<<Cheers mate, EricR>>
R2: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca
Reactor Tuning - 12/08/06
Hey Eric,
<<Ken>>
All noted.
<<Cool>>
You did mention that I had high alkalinity but the testing doesn't bare
this out.
<<...?>>
It was high when I first set up the tank, but has been in the 11-12 dKH
range ever since.
<<And this is the "high" end of the acceptable range...couple this with
calcium levels above 400ppm and you have the "potential" for precipitous
events>>
I waited until the alkalinity hit 7-8 dKH before turning on the CO2. I
measured morning and night. The alk never hit 8dKH but I still got the
precipitate.
<<Mmm...pretty sure you stated in a previous query your alkalinity had
reached 11dKH and with calcium at 425ppm>>
Something is odd here I think.
<<Hmm, maybe...though likely much to do with the newness/instability of
the system>>
Oh yea and Ca was about 415 ppm.
<<Again, on the high end...>>
I didn't even have the CO2 running for 24 hours?
<<I'm still guessing the reactor needs more tuning/backing-off on
bubble/effluent rates>>
I am definitely confused. Good thing that I can rest on the fact that
this is a relaxing hobby. :)
<<Ha! Indeed...>>
Regards,
Ken
<<Be chatting, EricR>>
R3: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/08/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Ken>>
I did have alkalinity at 11 dKH and calcium at 425 ppm, however the alkalinity
was at 8 dKH when I turned on the reactor.
<<Understood>>
I was just confused at the precipitate in the tank.
<<As previously explained...I think (?)>>
I also thought that 1 bubble per second and effluent of .02 ml was not a lot.
<<Is all relative...may very well be/appears to be too much for "your" system>>
I guess I am wrong?
<<Just new...and learning...>>
Anyway, I ordered a new solenoid as the one I have now I cannot adjust under
this amount of 1 bubble per second as it doesn't seem to be too fine.
<<Mmm, I see...might have been able to use a simple pinch-clamp on the hose in
conjunction with the current solenoid/metering valve>>
Also from what the Ca reactor maker said, it should be running all of the time
and not off and on.
<<Bull...how can the "maker" know what your system's needs are/what's best for
your tank? Only by testing can you/anyone determine if the Ca reactor needs to
be fed CO2 on a full-time basis. To help with pH swings, I have my Ca reactor
on a timer that turns off the CO2 when the lights come-on on my vegetable
refugium (refugium is on a RDP)>>
I will try it at maybe 30 or 40 bubbles per minute and watch the tank and test
morning and night for a few days and see what happens.
<<Once you reduce the bubble-rate, adjust the effluent until the effluent pH is
about 7.0 with the CaribSea media>>
If I still have issues, should I use something like ESV two-part or Kalkwasser
(watching pH of course) until my tank has more of an alkalinity and calcium
demand?
<<Try the two-part over the Kalkwasser for now...but honestly...with your
current stock list/stocking density, monthly 20% water changes should be quite
sufficient for maintaining the tanks earth elements>>
Also the Ca reactor maker recommends aragonite for his reactor, is this a good
choice?
<<It is, most all reactor media is a "form" of aragonite. Do look in to the
larger "European style" (10mm nominal) medias as carried by 'Premium Aquatics'
and 'Aquarium Specialty' (the latter is owned by a friend of mine). Scott at
Aquarium Specialty also has a Magnesium granulate that can be added to the CA
reactor and may help with maintaining this element as well>>
Lastly, I will cut back on my water changes as per the last email.
<<For the best I believe>>
What percent and how many times a month do you recommend?
<<With the tank so new and lightly stocked, I think 25% per month would be just
fine>>
Thanks,
Ken
<<Always welcome. Eric Russell>>
R4: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/12/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Ken>>
The tank looks good, but I am still trying to figure out the Ca and alk deal. I
haven't added anything to the tank in a week.
<<Good>>
My alk was 9 dKH and Ca was about 385 ppm last night.
<<Both excellent values>>
I changed about 5% water last Friday.
<<...thought we agreed to cut back on this and let the tank find its "balance"
*grin*>>
Right now I guess there is no need to do anything.
<<Agreed>>
At what reading do you think I need to take action?
<<As long as alkalinity stays within 8-12 dKH and Ca between 350-450 ppm; and
keeping both from being at the high end of their respective range at the same
time, then you need do nothing. If any adjustments do need to be made then make
"small" ones>>
I don't want to get involved in that two-part addition additive.
<<Ok>>
I have the Ca reactor and the Kalk stirrer and I would rather go that route when
the time comes.
<<Indeed...both are better methodologies. And you could probably go ahead and
use the calcium reactor...with a different (harder) media and "fine tuning" of
the reactor effluent>>
By the way, I had checked my Mg and it was somewhere between 1230 and 1260. So
this doesn't appear to be low.
<<Nope>>
You mentioned about a larger media for the Ca reactor. What would the purpose
be for using this over the CaribSea aragonite that I have?
<<Slower dissolution...as it appears now, the calcium reactor is overwhelming
your system>
By the way, I did get myself a better Co2 controller for better control over how
much is added. I will hold off on the reactor until for the present.
<<I would try a different media, crank-back the output, and see what happens
now>>
With regards to the Kalkwasser stirrer, can I dose some amount with my top off
water?
<<You can...if the system will handle it...>>
I have a Liter Meter and it administers is whatever you want to set it at. It
just takes that amount you want to deliver in a 24 hour period and divides it
into 150 doses.
<<Understood>>
That looks to be a dose each 9.6 minutes. So if I dose as per my evaporation
rate of a gallon per day, this would mean it would dose .85 of an ounce every
9.6 minutes. I could also set with a timer and only have it dose for the
12-hour lights-off period. I would then tell the Liter Meter that it doses
2-gallons a day so that it can dose the 1-gallon in that 12-hour period that is
needed.
<<Mmm, better to run 24/7 for better system stability if will be your only means
for top-off>>
I could also use a timer and have it dose 1/2-gallon in 12-hours with limewater
and then does the other 12-hours with just my ro/di water. What do you think?
<<Ah, even better to run/dose separately. I would set the meter to add the
fresh top-off water (minus whatever volume of limewater you decide to dose)
throughout a 24-hour period, and then set the limewater to be added during
"lights out">>
Getting back to my "ash" debris on the rocks. I had mentioned previously that I
noticed this after I ran the Ca reactor.
<<Maybe another indicator that the CaribSea media id being dissolved "too
fast">>
However I have not run it in a week and I still noticed it when I blew off the
rocks the last few days.
<<Likely the material will not go back in to solution and is resettling...along
with detritus in the tank...this is not uncommon/unusual>>
Maybe it is not from the CO2 reactor and maybe not calcium precipitate?
<<Possibly detritus>>
It's hard to describe what it looks like on the rock except debris. Almost
looks like blowing ashes.
<<Does sound like "precipitate"...hmm or maybe...you haven't added a flocculent
to your system have you?>>
It is not powdery like what I get when I use the turkey baster and blow out the
holes in the rocks.
<<I see>>
Could the rock be breaking down at all?
<<Doubtful>>
The tank itself looks good. The two tangs and the few soft corals/star-polyps
look good. Phosphate is still zero and nitrate is .15ppm using LaMotte.
<<All good>>
Thanks and regards,
Ken
<<I'll wager everything will "settle in/stabilize" with time and less "fiddling"
of the system. Regards, EricR>>
R5: Coralline Algae/Alkaline Precipitation/Ca Reactor Tuning - 12/14/06
Hey Eric,
<<Hey Ken>>
The 5% water change was not planned. After having the tank set up for 7 weeks,
having the powerheads blow all of the initial stuff around etc, my sump was a
mess. The only way to get it out was with putting a tube on the suction side of
a powerhead and send the stuff to a bucket.
<<Ah...ok>>
I ended up going through about 5 gallons of water. I saw no negative in this at
all.
<<Agreed>>
I will check into the other medias for the Ca reactor but before I do, I want to
see if I can adjust the CO2 bubble rate with what I have now.
<<A good plan>>
The aragonite I am using now has been used successfully for many people, and
maybe I just don't have it set right for my tank presently.
<<This is my primary suspicion...that the reactor is not "tuned" to your
system>>
I will wait for the alk and/or Ca to drop and then try the limewater dosing that
we discussed (12 hr for ro/di and 12 hr limewater).
<<Ok>>
You mentioned flocculent. I'm not sure what this is.
<<It is often sold as a "clarifier" to rid the water column of small suspended
particles (no place for it in a reef tank in my opinion). It will "clump"
matter together that may resemble the "ash" you mentioned previously>>
Note though that I have not added anything to my tank at all.
<<Noted>>
Thanks and regards,
Ken
<<Cheers mate, Eric Russell>>
R6: Calcium Reactor Issue - 11/09/06
Hey Eric,
<<Hey Ken>>
Well I tested ammonia and nitrite last night (48 hours after the water
change). I got .14 ppm on LaMotte Colorimeter. I also used Fastest and
it looked like the color at the lowest (which could be zero too on this
kit).
<<Go with the LaMotte kit's reading>>
Ammonia on LaMotte was zero on Monday night. Nitrite was 0.792 (after
multiplying by 3.3 to convert). Using Fastest, it was a faint pink
color. It seems to me maybe that the readings are higher than the
previous night.
<<Maybe so>>
Was the cycling thrown back maybe?
<<Maybe...marginally>>
Does this mean that the rock won't perform as well, or just that things
are delayed?
<<The rock will be fine/unaffected>>
Also to get zero for nitrite, does there have to be perfectly clear in
the tube with no tint of color whatsoever?
<<Hmm...whatever the instructions for the particular test kit tells
you>>
With regards to calcium and alk. I'm sure my calcium can't be too high
if my alk is, as I don't think chemically that can happen.
<<Um...generally mutually exclusive, agreed...but both can be pushed
beyond their limits resulting in a precipitous event as you
experienced...best to test>>
If I am going to keep mostly LPS and soft corals, (not sure about SPS at
this point), is my calcium reactor a waste?
<<Not at all...LPS have calcareous skeletons and many soft corals
utilize calcareous "spicules" for support>>
Am I better off with a Kalkwasser reactor instead?
<<Can be useful...but probably not needed for your system as planned
right now>>
Or is a calcium reactor a benefit period to a reef tank.
<<Many times...yes>>
Thanks,
Ken
<<Regards, EricR>>
Equipment list for 500 gallon system 11/26/07
Hello,
<Hey Kirk, JustinN with you this fine evening>
And thank you for answering my question:
<No problems, is what we exist (as a group of like-minded individuals, not as a
personal crusade! *grin*) for>
For my Xmas present this year, my wife has given me the OK to get a 450
(96x36x30) custom acrylic gallon tank for our new home.
<Very nice! Quite an undertaking, and quite a woman for letting it happen.
*grin*>
The largest tank I have had to this point has been a 125gallon tank. I have been
in the saltwater hobby for 8 years, but I must say this is an exciting but
seemly overwhelming task.
<Can be daunting>
I know the choice of filtration, pumps, skimmers and crucial to the success of
this project.
<Absolutely>
With that said, I would like to know what types of skimmers would you recommend
for a tank of this size. I am going to have a mixture of fish (large angelfish,
triggers (pink tail or bluethroat), butterfly (copperband), clowns, and possible
a Naso tang) and corals (mostly being LFS and a clam or 2). I am NOT going to
keep SPS corals.
<Am sure you know this, but still feel I must mention that both the angels and
the butterfly run a very high possibility of nipping both corals and clams to
death.>
Skimmers
------------
The research I have done so far has led me to the following skimmers:
H&S
Bubble King
Deltec
Klaes
I would like to know if a Euroreef or ASM skimmers are a good choice for this
large of a tank. Whatever skimmer I decide on, it needs to be a well design
skimmer AND produces a sufficient amount of skimmate.
<I believe any of these would be sufficient. Just to be safe, get a skimmer that
is recommended for a tank larger than your overall water volume. That should
give you the piece of mind you seek, regardless of manufacturer.>
Filtration/Pumps
-------------------
I am planning on a closed loop system, and for a pump choice it must be quiet
and emit low heat. I was thinking about Dolphin AMP Master pumps, but some
other reefers have mentioned larger Bluelines, but I do not know much about
them. Can you offer any suggestions in this area? How much water flow (i.e.,
gph/hr) should I plan for??
<Alas, I have no experience with either pump, but going on what I've heard, I
hear nothing but glowing praise for the Blueline line of pumps. Sequence pumps
also seem to carry a similar reputation. Sorry I'm not of more assistance here.>
Calcium Reactor
------------------
Is this a mandatory piece of equipment with a tank this size? If so, can you
suggest some models for me to research.
<I would not consider it mandatory, no, but it will simplify and automate that
much more of your maintenance. Korallin, Knop and Tunze all make readily
available calcium reactors.>
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Kirk
<Well, wish I could say I had more specific recommendations for you, here, but I
think you will do fine. Just read as much reviews of equipment as possible on
online forums, talk to local reef clubs, and research before you purchase. Do
keep us informed on this wonderful sounding project! -JustinN>
Calcium Reactor Issue - 11/05/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Ken>>
I have been looking at my tank the last few days and have noticed the water is
hazy and also so was the inside of the glass. Upon further inspection I notice
whitish on live rocks as well.
<<Some earth-element precipitated from solution>>
My thinking is the calcium reactor.
<<Possibly...you also don't "need" to run the reactor at this stage (no
abundance of calcifying organisms)>>
I have been running it for a week now at the lowest setting in the
instructions. CO2 at one bubble per second and the effluent at .02ml. My pH
has been about 8.15 to 8.20 using a calibrated probe.
<<Ok>>
I stopped running the CO2 the other day and just let the .02ml pass through. Do
you think this is the reason why I am seeing what I am?
<<From running "without" CO2? No...it is possible the precipitate is a result
of mixing the salt in the tank...and not a real concern right now. But
concerning the calcium reactor...I wouldn't waste my CO2 at this stage were this
me...but rather wait until the system is cycles and stocked with calcifying
organisms>>
Should I discontinue everything until I get more in the tank?
<<I would discontinue the reactor, yes>>
Should I do a water change even though tank is not finished cycling?
<<Maybe...have you measured calcium/alkalinity?>>
I tested my hardness using Salifert and went through one 1.0 ml titration and
had to fill up again. I didn't get a proper reading after the second titration
but I would believe that my dKh is somewhere in the 20's.
<<Ah, ok...then perhaps a water change "is" best. Start with 50% and adjust
from there to get these readings back to NSW readings...and disconnect the
calcium reactor until it is "needed">>
Will this white stuff on the rocks hurt anything?
<<Not now/with just rock in the system...and should sift down to the substrate
eventually (can be "blown off" with a turkey baster/powerhead)>>
Will it go away so that the appearance looks better?
<<As just stated>>
It is not real bad but definitely different than when I put the rock in the
tank.
Thanks,
Ken
<<Regards, EricR...off to get things ready for my trip to the Big Island on the
morrow!>>
Calcium reactor Issue - 11/05/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Ken>>
Which is the big island? Australia?
<<Nope, Australia actually…is a continent...I'm headed to the Big Island of
Hawaii>>
Thanks for the replies and hope you have a nice trip.
<<Welcome and thank you. I’m leaving in the AM to meet up with Bob for some
relaxation/dive adventure...and some more tips from the master himself on
underwater photography>>
I will do a 50% water change.
<<Cool>>
Will that hurt the cycling?
<<It "may" extend the cycle a bit, but I think it is more important at this
point to bring your alkalinity/calcium levels back to NSW levels for the
emergent life in/on your live rock and to preclude the possibility of another
precipitous event (you've shut down that calcium reactor for now, yes?)>>
By the way, does it matter if the hardness is high now since there is only rock
in the tank?
<<It's not "critical" at this stage unless your calcium level is greatly
elevated as well...but probably better to go ahead and perform the change>>
Can I/should I wait until after the cycling?
<<Could have waited if you hadn't hooked up the calcium reactor so soon <grin>
>>
Thanks and regards,
Ken
<<Cheers mate, Eric Russell>>
R2: Calcium Reactor Issue - 11/07/06
Eric,
<<Ken>>
After I sent you the email I thought of Hawaii.
<<Yes indeed!>>
Have a good time.
<<No worries there... 7am here now...drinking coffee and sitting here with Bob
answering queries...hey wait, isn't this supposed to be a vacation?>>
I will do the water change.
<<Very good>>
My water is on the cloudy side now.
<<Will settle out/clear up once your water chemistry is back in balance>>
Probably worse since I re-did the plumbing.
<<I wouldn’t be concerned>>
Any chance I did harm to the rock?
<<Doubtful>>
Thanks again and be safe.
<<Will do Ken. Cheers, EricR>>
Regards,
Ken
R3: Calcium Reactor Issue - 11/08/06
Hey Eric,
<<Hiya Ken>>
Thanks for the email.
<<Always welcome>>
I'm glad that you arrived safely.
<<Thank you>>
I re-did the plumbing (correctly) this time.
<<Super>>
The tank cannot handle the gph from my pump, so I am using a ball valve on the
discharge side of the pump.
<<Common and quite acceptable. This also gives you the ability to increase flow
if/when necessary due to the gradual buildup of organic material inside the
plumbing>>
I did a water change that night (Sunday) about 40 gallons.
<<Ah, good>>
So probably equal to a 40% water change give or take.
<<Very good>>
Water was still hazy Monday morning. I got home last night and the water was
clear.
<<Yay!>>
I did some water tests using LaMotte and got: amm = 0, nitrite NO2 = .0957 ppm,
and hardness = 15.68 dKH.
<<Still a bit high on the alkalinity, but will probably be fine for now if your
calcium level is less than 400ppm>>>
This morning the tank looked real good.
<<Excellent>>
I didn't test for anything yet except for nitrate for the first time. Using
LaMotte I got 7.65 ppm NO3. I guess I am close the end of the cycling.
<<Mmm, hard to say if you're "close to the end" but things are definitely
progressing. Just keep monitoring water quality and don't get in to too much of
a rush to begin stocking the system>>
Do you think that doing the water change I lost some of the bacteria that
converts ammonia to nitrite or it doesn't work like that?
<<Opinions will likely vary, but yes, doing partial water changes too early
"might" delay/stall a cycle due to sudden dilution of organics/partial die-off
of the bacteria colony and subsequent need to "ramp-up" again as the nitrogenous
waste builds back up>>
Also since I did the water change, how much should I do at the end of the cycle?
<<I would try to do another 50%>>
Do you think that the rock will "eat" all of the nitrate?
<<Indeed...the bacteria colonizing the rock (all the surfaces in the tank,
actually) should bring ammonia/nitrite/nitrate all down to zero (wait a day or
so after the water change and retest to be sure)>>
Also I guess I want to get the hardness down even more from the
15.68.
<<Between 8-12 dKH...agreed>>
Thanks again.
<<Quite welcome>>
Be safe.
<<Will do>>
Regards,
Ken
<<Be chatting, EricR>>
Calcium and SPS 11/01/06
Hi crew,
<Hello>
What will best meet the calcium demands in a SPS setup, a Kalk reactor or
calcium reactor?
Thanks
Mohamed
<Hands down a calcium reactor. It is not so much the calcium, but more so the
alkalinity. SPS can have perfect calcium, but without the proper alkalinity
levels, they cannot utilize the calcium. Kalk doesn’t raise calcium in a
system, but rather maintains it. Over time, Kalkwasser will begin to drive the
alkalinity levels down, thus defeating the purpose. I’m not saying it can’t be
done with Kalk, but it is not the best route to go in my opinion. Cheers! – Dr.
J>
Calcium reactor gear - 10/28/06
Hello to all,
I'm in the process of putting together a Ca reactor and I have a few questions about its accompanying equipment. Is a bubble counter needed or does a flow control valve such as the Dwyer RMA -151 (www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/flow/SeriesRMPrice.cfm and www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/DIYCalciumReactor.htm)
serve the same purpose?
<Can... but having both is superior>
I like the idea of being able to quantify the amount of CO2 by cubic centimeter rather than by bubbles.
<A visual check is a good second/redundant safeguard>
Would a pinch valve on the return effluent instead of a needle valve help to minimize clogging in the return line?
<Mmm... better to have an adjustable valve, use of a bit larger pump
pressure than needed...>
Now for my test kits, I use Salifert across the board, but my DKH test only goes up to 16. Is it necessary to know what the DKH of the effluent or is monitoring the display parameters the main indicator (the answer seems obvious)?
<The latter should be fine. Many folks find monitoring/measuring pH here
useful>
I have the same question concerning PH, is it necessary to measure the
effluent or should the main display take priority?
<Oh! Both>
I'll get a PH meter if its needed or advisable. Finally, are solenoid's a needed addition for protection against power outages?
FWIW - 150gal reef, 25
SPS frags, 1 clam, a few fish, 75 gal sump, 35 gal DSB refuge,
skimmer with ozone, 250lbs of LR.
<Mmm... up to you. What is your provision for power loss in all cases?
If the effluent is discharged into an intermediate sump... not likely to
be as useful/needed. Bob Fenner>
Knop C Calcium Reactor Instructions - 10/26/06
Hello-
<<Howdy>>
I recently purchased a used Knop C calcium reactor from EBay for my 125
gallon reef aquarium and unfortunately the seller did not have the
operation manual. Try as I might, I cannot find a copy of the manual
online and I am extremely frustrated as this is my first calcium reactor
and I have almost no idea how to set it up.
<<Contact Marine Depot re an instruction manual...they are a U.S.
distributor for Knop products and should be able to help you out>>
The unit appears to be in great condition and the seller provided all
the CO2 tubing and the Eheim pump. I have a 5lb CO2 bottle and am
shopping for a suitable regulator and pH monitor (any suggestions?).
<<Marine Depot offers a decent regulator w/solenoid, and either the
Pinpoint or Milwaukee pH monitor will serve well>>
Can you please provide any information about how to properly install
this unit?
<<Here's a brief explanation from Jason C. who has considerable
experience with the Knop reactors:
"Well, let's see... fill it up with media [bet you have that part done].
Fill up the bubble counter 2/3 with fresh water. Attach the C02 line to
the bubble counter. Attach the feed and return lines to the reactor -
feed goes in the bottom, return/effluent goes out the top. Fill the
reactor from the tank - either with a siphon, dedicated pump, or
T-fitting from the return pumps. With the effluent valve closed, turn on
the pump and allow the reactor to circulate the water for 24 hours or
until it clears up - will look like skim milk at first. Then, add C02 at
a rate of one bubble every three to five seconds and open the effluent
valve and allow to drip back into the system at about two drops per
second. Test the effluent and your tank and then test again and again...
that's really all there is to it." >>
Thank you for any assistance you can give!!!!
<<Quite welcome>>
-Dennis
<<Regards, EricR>>
High Bubble-Rate Calcium Reactor – 10/25/06
Hello all,
<<David>>
I've searched for a couple of weeks now for someone else having the same
issue I am with my Knop S-IV CA reactor.
<<Okay>>
I have to pump 90 bubbles per minute of C02, and drip 4 drops/sec of
effluent @ a PH of 6.8 to reach 10 DKH and 400ppm Calcium in my 150
Gallon tank.
<<Hmm, do you have a large amount of calcifying organisms in this
tank? Maybe you need a larger reactor...or maybe just better/new
reactor media>>
I started off with 30 BPM, and 2 drops/3 seconds and I've slowly tweaked
the outputs up to this level over the past few months. I was using a
larger Korallith media, and now I'm using the medium (course) size grain.
<<I would suggest you experiment with some other brands/types of media>>
I'm not sure if I should be concerned with this amount of CO2 being
injected.
<<Not if you aren’t experiencing a large depression of your pH>>
Everything seems to be doing well, and my coralline algae growth is
impressive.
<<Well then...>>
Could I achieve these same results with a higher pH if I went with the
smallest of the Korallith media?
<<A higher pH in your tank or in the reactor?>>
My tank parameters:
pH 8.15 - 8.25
Ca 390 - 400
NO3 - <.2 (usually undetectable)
P04 - <.2 (usually undetectable)
SG - 1.025
Temp - 78 - 80
Nitrite - 0
Ammonia - 0
DKH - 9 -10
<<No problems here with the amount of CO2 you’re using>>
Circulation: (about 40x - 45x per hour after head loss)
Sequence Barracuda - Upper spray bar "manifold" with (6) 3/4 adjustable
Loc-line outlets
Dolphin 4000/3000 - Lower spray bar through (8) ½-inch PVC outlets
Iwaki 40RLXT - Main Return from sump
Top-off water: RO/DI with Silicate membrane - circulated and heated for
24 hours before use.
1" Aragonite substrate (sugar size)
AquaC EV-180 with Mag 9.5
Magnum 250 with Denitrate - used as needed maybe once a week in the sump
Magnum 250 with Phosphate remover - used as needed maybe once a week in
the sump
ESV granular carbon or Chemipure in the sump changed weekly
Rowaphos or Poly-Filter in sump where skimmer returns water, and changed
weekly
Lighting - Ice Cap HQI Pendants (2) 250-Watt 10K Ushio MH with (3)
95-watt URI Actinics
Chiller - Pacific Coast Imports CL650
175-Lbs of Live Rock (Fiji and Tonga)
Animals: (Moving slowly)
Pincushion Urchin (Lytechinus vaniegatus)
20 hermits, 30 Astrea snails
6 line wrasse
Coral Beauty
3 small Acropora frags - doing well
1 med leather - Also doing well, and way far away from frags
3 or 4 mushroom colonies
15% water changes every 2 weeks
I know, lots of info for my issue, but thank you in advance.
-David
<<I don’t see anything wrong here other than possibly the reactor is
having trouble keeping up with demand. Do try some different media to
see if you can get the bubble rate down...if only to keep from having to
refill the cylinder so often. Regards, EricR>>
Muriatic Acid For Calcium Reactor - 07/27/06
Hello Crew!
<Hi Jerry>
I'm wondering if there is any reason why Muriatic acid could not be used instead
of carbon dioxide in a calcium reactor? Safety aside, is there a chemical
reason why this should be avoided?
<I'd stay away from using this chemical. Dangerous just to have in the house as
the fumes have a corrosive effect on human/animal tissue, potentially damaging
respiratory organs, eyes, skim, intestines, you name it. Stick with the carbon
dioxide. Incidentally, hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid) is a by-product of
mustard gas, and certainly has no place in the marine aquarium.>
Regards,
<And to you. James (Salty Dog)> <<RMF has seen some European
Calcium Reactor models that use HCl.>
Jerry
- Knop Model C Calcium Reactor 7/24/06 -
I was hoping one of the fine members of the WWM crew could help me resolve a
problem I am having with my reactor. The instructions on the reactor stated that
you could run the reactor from a siphon off of the main tank after much
tinkering I could not get this method to work for me. <With larger reactors,
this can be a problem as the pressure supplied by the CO2 is enough to work
against the siphon.> When I started to add the co2 the reactor would begin to
form bubbles at the bottom of the chamber and then eventually run dry. <This
sounds more like you're picking up air in the siphon - CO2 almost always
accumulates at the top of the reactor.> Bubble rate was around 16 bubbles a min.
of co2 and approx.120 drips a min. into sump. If I shut off co2 the reactor
would run forever and not run dry even if I opened the drip valve fully. I then
tried buying a Rio 800 pump to feed the reactor and was rewarded with the exact
same results. Is the 800 still not enough feed pressure for the reactor? <Sounds
that way.> Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated. <I've always
had the best results by T-ing off from the return on the main pump.> I am really
looking forward to getting this thing up and running correctly. Much
thanks. Craig
<Cheers, J -- >
- Calcium Reactors 7/2/06 -
Hi Jason,
<Good morning.>
Thinking about a calcium reactor and have targeted the Knop S-IV. <My personal
favorite, although perhaps much larger than you need for a 55.> I have a couple
of questions to clarify my thoughts and to properly plan the project.
1) There are several purchase options to bundle required accessories. Is a
bottle for CO2 the same as a tank? <Yes.> Pictures of Ca Reactors have tanks
e.g.,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm. Or, should I search for a
bottle... where might you suggest I find one? <Bottle is really slang for a tank
- typically because of the small amount needed (5 to 10 lbs) these small tanks
are referred to as bottle as they are tiny compared to their larger cousins,
which are clearly tanks. No worries.>
2) I have a 55G tank, LR & aragonite bed with powerheads (2) and skimmer. You
often refer to the above mentioned site for clarification of t-connections, or
siphon input approaches. I am sorry, I read the FAQ's and just don't get it.
What will I need to move the water through the reactor? <Your choice - a siphon
OR a dedicated pump OR a T-fitting off the main return pump.> How would I 'T'
the input of the skimmer or AquaClear 110? <Ahh, I see... you will likely need
to use a dedicated powerhead in the tank to feed the reactor and then drip back
into the tank or the AquaClear.> Where would I drip the effluent, directly into
the tank does not seem quite right, yet, I am uncertain how this should be
optimally placed, e.g., directly below the skimmer or AquaClear 110 overflow or
does it matter? <Am I to understand that you're setting up a reef tank with
'just' a AquaClear 110 and a skimmer? I think before you spend the money on a
calcium reactor, you should be thinking about more and larger filtration. It is
quite possible that you've got the cart before the horse here and could easily
get by with two-part additives like B-Ionic until your tank is well stocked and
underway.>
3) Can I use the KNOP S-IV for my size tank? <I think perhaps overkill for your
system.>
4) Is it still necessary to purchase Co2-proof tubing? <Always.> Will I still
need Teflon plumbers tape? <Helps prevent leaks, so why not? It's less than $2 a
roll - seems like cheap insurance to me.>
P.S. When folks suggest the use of a red light to investigate the night life of
the tank, can a red led laser light be used as in a pointer used in
presentations?? <Well... these don't light much beyond the point so I'd use an
LED flashlight or similar. Cheers, J -- >
- Calcium Reactors, Follow-up 7/5/06 -
J,
<Greetings.>
I greatly appreciate your help. <My pleasure.> My tank is stocked... several
cardinals, pair of clowns, 6-lined wrasse, key hole dwarf, yellow tang, clean-up
crew, healthy Ricordea and polyp colony. <That is stocked... you'll need a
larger tank eventually with that tang running around in there.> I would like to
move towards a reef system. Ca++420, but dKH is 22. I would like to get this
closer to 8-12 without daily manual tasks? <Well, at the moment I didn't see
anything on your stock list which "needs" such extensive calcium/alkalinity
supplements. If you had SPS corals or clams then the calcium reactor would be
required, but certainly not a unit as large as the S-IV.> I was also under the
impression that the Ca Reactor was the more economical approach in the long run.
<In the long run, but a unit that large will be trouble for such a small volume
of water.> I do respect your advice, please advise. <Really, until you get into
SPS, I'd skip the reactor. If you've got money burning a hole in your pocket,
upgrade the 55 to a 90 or so... should be roughly the same space width-wise and
more water is always more forgiving.>
I was also under the impression LR & active sand bed meet the requirements of
filtration. <They meet the needs of one aspect of filtration. The AquaClear will
certainly provide mechanical filtration, but not much in terms of turnover. I'd
match the unit to the tank - so a 400 or 500.> The purpose for the AquaClear was
just to have a mechanism for additional filtration media if indicated (I use the
sponge and at times run GAC). I interpreted your comments as my filtration
capacity is lacking. <Yes, that is how it seems to me.> Does this require a sump
or refugium, or perhaps an additional canister system, or ...? <A sump/refugium
under the tank would be ideal. Provide more water volume, better turn over,
etc.> Space is a bit of an issue. <As is for most people. Never the less, for
the moment it seems to me that calcium and alkalinity are not something to be
concerned about. I'd keep them [Ca - dKH] sustained with two-part additives.
When you have animals in the tank that act like calcium sponges, then it's time
to consider the reactor. Cheers, J -- >
Calcium Reactors/Selection 4/28/06
Hi everyone,
<Hello Marc>
Hope the weather is good on your side of the world. <Not too bad today.> I am
emailing to ask
some advice regarding calcium reactors. Firstly in Australia there is a distinct
lack of choice with reactors so I am ultimately bound by that
limitation (unless I look to the UK - similar voltage to Aus) but the first
question I had is what are the major differences and what should I look for when
purchasing a calcium reactor (an open ended question I know but some
incite would be greatly appreciated)?. They are a relatively expensive
initial investment and I would like to get it reasonably right. I have
identified two popular brands in Australia and would like any feedback on
their performance or any experience you may have had with them. They are the
Korallin C1501 (I think it is a 1502 in the US - 110v) and the Aquamedic 1000
unit.
<If it were my choice, I'd go with the Korallin C1501. Have heard good things
about them and are easy to work with. Keep in mind that I'm not saying the
Aquamedic isn't a good reactor, just that the Korallin would be my choice. Do
google these if you haven't already and look at the features for each individual
model before making your choice. Do read the posted link here to aid in your
decision. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm>
Also I would like to pass on that I recently installed a refugium on my reef
tank after reading through the many posts on your site and I hope to see some
payback in the near future once it establishes itself.
<You should be rewarded.>
Thanks for the great site and all the best.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Marc
Calcium use on WWM, Acetic Acid/Reactor use 4/26/06
Hi Bob,
<Adam>
Sorry it has taken me a while to get back to you. I have made a good start on
the calcium topic. So far I have edited the main article, top
XX faq's and about 10 of the FAQ pages. However, there are still several FAQ's I
need to summarize and then I'll need to collate all the
information and re-write the top XX faq and/or the main article.
<Outstanding... I'm betting you've become quite well-versed on the topic by now>
I'm sorry I have not been able to do this any faster. I have just bought a house
(we move in this Friday) and work is hectic. I will finish the
section as soon as possible.
<No worries. All improvements are welcome>
I feel that I have learned a lot by reading all the subject material about
calcium. However, there is one question that I have not seen asked
in any of the FAQ's that I have read. With regards to calcium reactors, is it
possible to use vinegar instead of CO2 to dissolve the media?
<Is possible to use... is the simplest organic acid, Acetic, CH3COOH... have
seen commercial and home-made units utilizing this (and "stronger" and more
concentrated inorganic acids... mainly in Europe>
And, if not, why? Or...perhaps that should read, vinegar (acetic acid) is an
acid that will breakdown the reactor media. Why is it not used? Acetic
acid is cheap and readily available. It would be a much easier and cheaper
solution compared to bottled CO2 if it was suitable.
Cheers,
Adam Langman
<Likely the "answer" lies in the CO2/Carbonic acid being easier to administer,
meter... less of a liability (as in lawsuits)... and the/a "founder effect"...
folks staying on a so-called bandwagon of technology due to their being familiar
with only it. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Coralife Calcium Reactor - 04/14/06
Good Morning!
<<About 11:30 pm now (East Coast Time)...Howdy!>>
I have tried searching, but I did not any information on the Calcium Reactor I
am looking into.
<<Okay>>
Does anybody know if the Coral Life <<Coralife>> Calcium reactors are a quality
product.
<<Mmm, haven't seen one of these "in the flesh", but would expect it to be as
expected...a lower cost, lower quality alternative>>
I know Protein Skimmer are many times overrated.
<<Not sure I understand, or agree, with this statement>>
Is this true with Calcium Reactors?
<<As in skimmers, pretty much get what you pay for.>>
I have a 140 gallon tank. It only has a few fish - a fire fish, two blue eye
Dispar Anthias, and a Pacific blue hippo tang. They have all been in the tank
for a few months. The tank cycled with 6" DSB and over 100 lbs of live rock for
almost a year.
<<Excellent!>>
I know that is probably a little excessive, but I am taking my time and trying
to but quality components as the money allows.
<<Not excessive at all...quite the opposite>>
I am about to start adding some SPS coral but I thought it would be good to get
a Calcium reactor installed and tuned first.
<<Not a necessity...but not a bad idea either>>
I have a 40 gallon sump/refugium with a AquaC EV180 protein
skimmer.
<<A quality product>>
For lighting I have two 250W metal halide pendants. As you can see I have
invested a significant amount into the tank already.
<<Is a function of the hobby me thinks <G> >>
I do not mind spending more for a calcium reactor. The Coralife unit looks like
it is less expensive then most.
<<Indeed...to be fair, I don't have any practical experience with the Coralife
unit...but for my money, I would look at a Knop or Precision Marine reactor, or
maybe even Korallin>>
If it works well and doesn't have any major drawbacks, I figure why not? Any
suggestions would be appreciated.
<<Try posting your query on one of the message boards (Reefs.org/Reef Central)
and see what folks who own one have to say about it>>
Thank You
Tracy
<<Regards, EricR>>
Ca Reactor Input...Filter The Water? - 04/12/06
Hi Crew,
<<Hi Greg>>
I really appreciate the time and knowledge you have invested in WetWebMedia so I
will *try* to not take much of your time with this question...
<<No worries mate...happy to assist>>
I have just completed a DIY calcium reactor and, in the process of installing
it, I am concerned the possibility of contaminants blocking the input line.
<<?>>
Anything I put in my refugium end-up swarmed in amphipods, copepods, snails,
etc. so I am concerned that many of these will be sucked into the inlet tubing
of the Ca reactor.
<<Mmm...Why are you feeding the reactor from the refugium? Why not just tee off
a drain line from the tank?>>
I had considered wrapping a small piece of filter pad around the inlet line but
this would likely just provide a breeding site for copepods.
<<More likely it will just become clogged/neglected>>
I suspect that none of these life forms would live in the pH-depressed
environment within the Ca reactor but I prefer to not have these introduced,
only to die, decay and contaminate the reactor.
<<Of small concern here...more important to keep the water flowing through the
reactor.>>
Do you have any suggestions for "filtering" the input to a Ca reactor?
<<Can't say I've ever known this to be a concern. I think anything with a mesh
size small enough to do what you want is going to be a maintenance hassle. And
really, I think the fear of introducing "critters" to the reactor is of small
matter. If you can't replumb to feed water directly from the tank, then I would
be inclined to just not worry about the pods, et al. Perhaps I could be more
helpful if I had a better idea about your arrangement/how the water is getting
to the reactor>>
Thank you, in advance, for the advice!
--Greg
<<Mmm, welcome...such as it was <grin>. Regards, EricR>>
Ca Reactor Input...Filter The Water? II - 04/13/06
Eric,
<<Hello Greg>>
Thank you for your response.
<<You're welcome>>
To explain my situation more fully... I have a 180g aquarium on the main floor
of my house, which is plumbed through the
floor and into 2 50g refugiums in my basement.
<<Ahh...wish I had a basement for such...>>
The main tank overflow goes through a DIY 6' tall skimmer before emptying into
the top 50g refugium. All plumbing accessories, such as the calcium reactor are
located in the basement to minimize opportunities for leaks on the upper floor.
<<Understood>>
This is why the calcium reactor is taking input water from the refugium.
<<You could still "tap" in to the line feeding the skimmer and run a small
(1/4") line to the reactor without affecting the skimmers performance>>
The effluent from the Ca reactor drips into an overflow box internal to the
bottom refugium. A pump sits inside this overflow box and powers a second
skimmer (Red Sea Berlin) to remove any accumulated surface organics (and to
remove the remaining dissolved CO2).
<<Neat!>>
I suppose I could tee off the main skimmer output, the main return line or the
line that powers the refugium skimmer but I have found the 'pods to be present
in every part of the tank and plumbing.
<<"Agreed" on the presence of the "pods"...but many hobbyists, including myself,
don't give them a second thought when it comes to rigging the feed lines to our
reactors. But saying that...feeding the reactor from your drain line (before
the skimmer) will give you the "least" chance of introducing these critters to
the reactor>>
Since the Ca reactor's circulation pump also provides enough suction to draw in
water, I had planned to simply drop the reactor input line in the bottom
refugium for source water as I did not want to put undue stress (pressure) in
the reactor by using a main return line.
<<Don't use a return line (though "pressure" from this is of little concern),
use the drain line to "gravity feed" the reactor>>
If you have never heard of 'pods clogging a Ca reactor I guess I will just leave
the setup as-is and continue to check the flow daily.
<<Indeed...more likely to clog from compaction of the media as it
softens/crumples/depletes>>
Occasionally my work requires that I travel for 1-2 weeks so I
have tried to design my system to be as automated and as robust as possible,
since it always seems that, if there is going to be a failure, it will happen
when I am away.
<<Mmm, know what you mean...been there...done that...seen the video... Best to
have someone at least "check up" on the system every 2-3 days>>
It just seemed that, considering the large amount of 'pods I find on anything
that is stationary in my tank, they could represent
a potential "clogging hazard".
<<Of small concern here my friend>>
Thanks again for your input!
Greg
<<Always welcome, EricR>>
Mainly sulfur/sulfuric-based calcium reactors 4/10/06
Hello Bob - I hope that you are well.
<Yes Tim, thank you>
I am sorry to be asking you a question, but hope that you will not mind!
<Not at all>
I am considering purchasing three 'miniature reactors' -
http://www.reefworks.co.uk/default.asp?section=197
I would be using one with Rowaphos.
<Look like nice, though small units>
The second I wanted to use as a sulphur denitrator with the output going into
the third reactor that I would fill will calcium reactor media or
aragonite. The thought process was that the sulphuric acid from the sulphur
denitrator would dissolve the calcium / aragonite thereby improving calcium
levels in the aquarium, whilst at the same time avoiding the pH problems
associated with a sulphur denitrator.
<Have seen some makes, models as well as home-made units of these>
I have no experience whatsoever in terms of using reactors and I was wondering
what your view was on this - would it work? Would it be a good
idea? Thanks Bob!
<Can be made to work, though H2SO4 in the publics hands and fish tanks makes me
very wary >
I am currently revising for my university final exams so therefore the limited
input - but I have been trying to answer at least the occasional email!
Have a great day and again, thank you ever so much for your help!
All the best,
Tim
<For the meanwhile, I encourage you to use a calcium reactor based on CO2
technology... much safer and still very effective... Bob Fenner>
Knop contact - 03/14/2005
I was advised to ask you this question. I have a Knop HD calcium reactor
but I need to replace a broken piece. Do you have any contact info for Knop to
order this.
Brad
<Mmm, my wife, Diana used to distribute Knop... I will cc her here with your
request... Otherwise, Marine Depot/Bayside is now their contact in the U.S. Bob
Fenner>
Makeup Water & Calcium Reactor Media using Magnum HOT 250 3/3/06
Bob & Colleagues,
Ditto on the kudos to the great web site and fantastic reference books.
<Ditto welcome>
I have an eight month old 120 gal reef aquarium with a 20 gal refugium. I have
been using SeaChem products
<Good products, company, folks>
to maintain proper calcium and carbonate alkalinity levels. My system loses
approximately one gallon of water to evaporation per day. I use RO/DI water for
this makeup water. After
aeration, the RO/DI water has a pH of 7.0.
<Yep>
Eventually I plan on adding a calcium reactor to my system. However, in the
interim, I am considering an experiment. I plan on using a seven gallon bucket
for makeup water
preparation. I plan on running (24/7) a Marineland Magnum 250 H.O.T. filter
filled with CaribSea A.R.M. Aragonite Reactor Media for the makeup water
preparation. On a daily basis I would transfer one gallon to my system and
replace it with one gallon of raw RO/DI water. I hope that this will reduce
the SeaChem supplements that I need to use without any significant risk to the
chemistry of my system.
<Should>
Since I already own the Magnum filter, there will be virtually no expense in
this experiment. Would you please share any thoughts that you might have on my
planned experiment with me? Could there be a negative impact?
Thank you for your time,
J.B. White
Austin, TX
<I think this is an excellent idea... worth the time/trial. I would further
encourage you to try other media with testing. Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor and pH Controller - 02/25/06
I purchased the Knop S IV and am curious how to set it up. I also purchased
American Marine Inc. pH controller. I see the pH probe hole on
the top of the Knop S IV, I was under the impression you used the pH probe and
controller to check the pH of the tank water and that adjusted
the flow of co2 into the Knop reactor.
<Yes>
But now I seem to be reading that you use pH controller to monitor the pH inside
the Knop reactor or at
least the effluent output, to keep it between 6.0 and 6.5. Is this correct?
<Mmm, no... at least this is not what I would do... and I would not utilize such
a low effluent pH. Somewhere around 6.8 is preferable IMO/E>
Also, does the larger media in the second small chamber on the S IV ever need
replacing?
<Mmm, yes, possibly>
If so, how do I replace it as I don't see a way to get it open as it appears
glued together.
<Need to replace the unit... over the long haul though>
Hyperlink to my pH controller:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=12795&N=20
04+113458
and Knop Reactor
http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_calcium_reactors_knop.asp?CartId=
<My wife, Diana, was the distributor of Knop Products in North America for a few
years, and I did help with "tech. support". Now, I would call, write the folks
at Marine Depot re. Bob Fenner>
Re: Calcium Reactor and pH Controller - 02/25/06
Thank You Bob, I got a response from American Marine Inc, and they stressed
that sense this is an alkalinity reactor (in reality...)
<... okay>
that it was more important to monitor the pH inside the Knop S IV reactor as,
"too low would turn the Korallith to pudding,
<... no... not possible. The KH of this source of calcium carbonate and carbonic
acid...>
and too high a pH would do nothing". I have elected to go with an AquaMedic
Kalkreactor with an auto top off and doser
pump for the night time. And got a second pH monitor only (not a controller
this time) and Salifert Calcium and KH tests to keep track of things inside
the tank (along with the Knop effluent). Trying to do things right this time
=;)
<Real good. Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor/Media 2/23/06
Bob, <James with you today.> what is the best calcium reactor media to used
and were can I find
it. I hope you are well. <Ralph, I've always thought Knop Korallith Media was
one of the best products in this regard. Can be ordered from
www.drsfostersmith.com. James (Salty Dog)>
Ralph Gibson
DIY calcium reactor 2/9/06
Hi Bob,
Love ya love your site.
I have a question about the DIY calcium reactor. Do you just use regular
vinyl tube?
I see this CO2 "safe" tubing now.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=CO1515
Do you really need this? It is sort of expensive.
Thanks,
Ed
<You can use such vinyl tubing (better the stuff made for carbon dioxide
supply), but it will "stiffen" and have to be replaced more often. Perhaps every
year or two. Bob Fenner>
Instructions on Knop c calcium reactor 01/01/2006
I was trying to find instructions on the Knop c calcium reactor and came
upon your site, I did a quick search of your site and even saw where someone
asked the same question, your response said that it was in the attachment, I'm
assuming it was in an attachment to the persons email? I cant seem to find
instructions on your site. Could you email them to me? <Bob, we don't keep
instructions for any accessories etc. Your best bet is to contact Knop and ask
them to email them to you. James (Salty Dog)>
thanks in advance
Bob <You might try MarineDepot.com, the newest Knop distributor in the U.S. RMF>
Calcium Reactors/Kalkwasser Reactors
Hey Crew,
<Ron>
Happy Holidays!
<And to you and yours>
My 50 Gallon SPS reef tank is doing well. I dose B Ionic 2 part DAILY!! I drip
ESV Kalk nightly for evaporated water...
This has been becoming difficult, as I am a touring musician.
<Yikes... perhaps a controller, automated dosing gear...>
Should I get a reactor or Kalk reactor on such a small reef tank, or can you
suggest other options so as to minimize the daily maintenance to the system???
<The best would be a simple reactor... a small Knop unit would be my first
choice, but a local hobbyist/marine club may have an upcoming workshop where you
could fashion your own>
Thanks for your time. Also, SPS doing ok, but growing slowly.
I understand many factors are involved. Besides water motion/quality, lighting,
what else helps??
<Many other factors...>
Feeding?
<Of a certainty, yes>
if I feed,, I get phosphates and brown stuff on the sand. My Phosphates are
generally around .03-.04...
Thanks!
Jennifer NYC
<Do try the feeding, extending your light period, vitamin and iodine/ide
additions. Bob Fenner>
Re: Calcium Reactors/Kalkwasser Reactors
Hey Bob!!
<Jenn>
You rock, by the way!
Which vitamins do you suggest. I dose Lugol's weekly. Should I dose
ESV Iodide as well? Lugol's is Iodine.
<Lugol's has both iodine and iodide... is fine for this element, the other...
vitamins, HUFAs... can be supplied via Selcon, Microvit...>
Should I feed Zoo or Phyto, always get mixed response here...
<I would try both... see if they make any difference>
Thanks a bunch.
Jenn
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Depressed pH? - 11/29/05
Hello again,
<Hello Aaron. John here.>
I've been trying to read up on all the information you make available to us, it's difficult not to feel inundated, and perhaps a bit dense, I apologize for constantly asking questions,
<No worries>
and thank you so much for all the wonderful information. I've written many times before, but I'll include my technical spec.s just the same, again thank you.
I have a 180 gallon reef setup, 40 gallon refugium, 20 gallon LifeReef sump and skimmer, 2x400 watt 15k metal halides 1x250 20k HQI, 2x140 watt VHO super actinics. Over the refugium I have a 150 watt HQI and 2x65 watt PC actinics.
<I assume you are or have looked into lighting your refugium on a reverse photoperiod?>
2 little giant pumps, one for the skimmer, one goes to a manifold that is in turned tee'd between 2 returns and the chemical filtration chambers. Additional circulation is provided by 4
Tunze 6000's and a multi-controller. I run 2.5 cups of carbon changed weekly and utilize a phosphate reductor with RowaPhos continuously. I use a Korallin Calcium reactor, the small one, and a Tunze Osmolator coupled with a calcium
dispenser/Nielsen reactor. There's a total of about 300 lbs of Tonga live rock, 250 lbs of live aragonite sand over a plenum. It's a mixed reef, with mostly stony corals. SG is 1.024, Ammonia is 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate is less that 1 ppm?
dunno pink is pink!
<Excellent>
I use an Aquacontroller to monitor pH, temp and ORP. PH is running a bit flat, 8.0 to
8.2, morning and evening respectively, ORP is 410 to 397, morning and evening respectively, I don't use ozone.
<Sounds very healthy>
Alk hangs at around 8 dKh. I do not detect phosphates, not sure if that is accurate. Calcium hangs at 410. I do 30 gallon water changes weekly. I have decent stony coral growth, depending on the species, I've crashed a few wild colonies, and learned not to purchase them-
albeit a bit late, my aquacultured specimens do very well.
I keep reading that my PH is too low, and I spoke with a very nice gentleman at my local LFS store that said I really don't have anything to worry about. Is that true?
<Your pH is almost perfect. I would agree with your LFS. Additionally, if your corals are all doing fine and growing healthily, then you have nothing to worry about, do you?>
I've read in Reefkeeping Magazine that while running a Calcium reactor, you may experience low
pH.
<Yes>
To counter this, or so I thought, I've been utilizing a Nilsen reactor. The gentleman at my LFS said that I should probably not use both, is this accurate?.
<No, they can both be utilized concurrently. A good way to counteract the depressed pH from the calcium reactor.>
If I stop using the Calcium reactor, my Alkalinity drops, but only slightly, while my calcium goes up. If I stop using the
Nielsen reactor, my alkalinity goes up, my calcium goes down, and my ph is slightly suppressed, but never goes below 8.0 in the morning before the lights come on. If I use the
Nielson reactor during the day, my pH stays at around 8.3, but then drops at night back to 8.1 or so.
<as is normal. Very good parameters>
If I only use the Nielsen reactor at night, my ph hovers at around 8.1-8.2 during a 24 hour period. Opening a window, and aerating the sump had no effect. I use
the Nielsen reactor for top off water, which is becoming minimal during the winter- the tanks been running for 11 months, still new I know. So my question, thank you for bearing with me.
1) Should I allow evaporation during the day and use the Nielsen reactor at night only?
<I wouldn't>
2) Should I take the Neilson reactor off, and just add buffered RO/DI water?
<no reason to>
3) Is my current pH dangerous to stony corals? Should I try to raise it?
<No... and as you said yourself, they are growing and doing fine.>
4) If I try to raise it, should I turn down/off the calcium reactor? Seems to be the only way.
<If you're really concerned, you could try turning the CO2 input to the calcium reactor off at night. You may have to increase the throughput during the day to make up for it. Additionally, you could run the calcium reactor effluent into a turbulent area (such as your skimmer) to help off-gas the
CO2.>
5) Should I raise my alkalinity in hopes that it will better buffer the solution, perhaps discontinue using Kalk
altogether as the gentleman at the LFS stated, or perhaps a more mild solution/effluent.
<I prefer to keep a slightly higher alkalinity, but again, if it ain't broke...>
6) Are the two devices, the calcium reactor and Nielsen reactor somehow working against each other?
<It doesn't look like it. Do you get a lot of alk / calcium precipitating out of solution onto flat surfaces (powerheads, etc)?>
I really don't want to change anything if I don't have to, and I'm pretty much just guessing as to what will happen if I remove one or the other, but I'm guessing removing the Nilsen reactor will cause my ph to remain pretty low, how then, is it possible to maintain the kinds of numbers that I see so often in marine aquaria,
i.e.: Calcium 450ppm, 11dkh ph 8.3-8.4? Should I be shooting for these numbers?
I just don't see how, my Kalk solution has an Alkalinity of 8 dKh, ph is 12+ and calcium is off the scale. My calcium reactor effluent has an Alkalinity off the scale and Calcium off the scale, and yet if I use both, my Alk stays between 8-9.2 dKh, calcium stays at 410-420 and
pH is always 8.0-8.26.
My wife says I should just tape 100 dollar bills to the outside glass of the tank, it would be cheaper, and more of a conversation piece at this point.
<No, you should tape the bills to the outside of *my* tank :P>
Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to make any more mistakes than I already have, and I'm hesitant about changing anything when everything seems ok, but am I looking at problems in the long run?
<Your system sounds very fine to me. I would not change anything. Best regards, John>
Thanks and Sorry this is so long, Aaron
Knop reactor 10/18/05
Hello crew,
<Harold>
I just wanted to ask your advice with setting my Knop C reactor on my 70
gallon reef. I measured the effluent and it reads a CA level of 230,
<? Too low>
while a
DKH or 21. pH is at 6.34.
I have been tinkering with effluent drops and CO2
bubbles but can get the effluent to read a higher CA. I know a reactor is
the way to go, but when I used Kalkwasser my C levels were always at around
370. I know I must be doing something wrong.
<Yes>
After reading your FAQs, I
have lowered drip to about 3 drops every two seconds and CO2 about 60 per
minute.
<This isn't the trouble>
Any advice would be greatly appreciate it. Oh, I am using fresh Korallith as
media.
<... my first guess was that "it" was the media... What does your test kit read on your main tank? It may be a reaction that is mal-affected by the low pH... I'd take a sample of the effluent and shake it, leave it exposed to the air (to rid it of the excess
CO2) and see if the calcium level doesn't "come up". Bob Fenner>
Re: Knop reactor 10/19/05
Dear Bob,
<Harold>
Thank you very much for your response.
<Welcome>
I tried what you said and after 5 minutes the CA on the effluent measured
300, although to be honest I don't know what I should now do with that
information.
<Mmm, understand that there is more free calcium than you had thought... that
there may be more still>
I had replaced the Korallith media about two weeks ago, so I
don't know if the media could be the culprit, or maybe I should try
CaribSea?
<The Knop media is a superior product here>
Do you have any ideas or suggestions as to what I can do to improve the
operation of the reactor?
Thanks,
Harold Chamberlain
<Yes... these are posted on WWM...:
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm
and the linked FAQs files above. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Calcium Reactor Building Pressure? - 11/22/05
Hi great site guys I could read for two days straight!!!!
<<Don't stop now!...>>
I am in the process of setting up a Precision Marine calcium reactor.
<<A nice piece of engineering...I have the 622.>>
I am in the process of setting up and getting the bubble-rate and effluent rate correct. My question is... I am using an Aqualifter pump to feed the calcium reactor from my sump.
<<ok>>
If I am pumping in that much water with the lifter and only letting the effluent drip back to the sump at a rate
of 40 drops per minute... Will that create to much pressure in the calcium reactor from the lifter putting in more than I am letting back in the sump?
<<The pump is not that powerful...nothing to fear here, other than maybe shortening the life of the pump from excessive back pressure.>>
I do not want it to bust anything or pop off a hose connection anywhere.
<<Put your finger over the pump outlet...I think you'll see just how little "real" pressure this pump develops.>>
I know that it is not much water coming in from the lifter but thought that maybe over time the pressure could build from not that much effluent coming out.
<<No worries mate, what little pressure there might be maxes (is this a word?)
<<Not officially, but it's been in use so long... MH>> out very quickly and will not continue to "build" from that little flapper pump.>>
Or does the back pressure coming from the reactor only let enough water get in from the Aqualifter.
<<Now you're getting it. <G> >>
Thanks so much!!!!
<<A pleasure, EricR>>
Oxygen... Calcium Reactor? 10/13/05
Hi guys, I just hooked up a Schuran Jetstream 1 Calcium reactor.
<Oooohhhh... Fancy!>
I haven't got it dialed in just right, but I can see I am going to have to do
something about the residual CO2.. The PH is fine until
the lights go out, then it drops like a rock.. I had the PH controller turning
on the CO2 when the PH in the tank was 8.10.. That
apparently isn't high enough, as the PH was dropping to 7.70 during the night..
I have since reset the CO2 to come on and go off at 8.20
so I will see how it goes.
<Residual CO2 is rarely a problem in tanks that have
adequate water movement and a decent skimmer. Your problem may be a result of
trying to control the CO2 flow to the reactor based on the
tank pH. Since changes in the tank pH will lag behind changes in the reactor, CO2
laden reactor effluent will continue to flow into the tank for a while after the
controller shuts off the gas.
Also, it takes a huge amount of CO2 to change the tank
pH, while it takes a very small amount to change the reactor chamber pH. I would
suggest setting up the controller to measure the effluent from the calcium
reactor and maintaining an effluent pH in the range of 6.5-7.0 This will temper
the swings you are seeing now. After you get a stable effluent pH, measure the
alkalinity and make sure it is at least 15-20 dKH. If the alk is lower than
that, adjust the pH down a bit.>
Meanwhile, I have been brainstorming.. I was first thinking of getting a
Precision Marine Effluent canister to make it a dual stage Calcium Reactor..
With a little pondering with that idea and some people stating that the ph of
the effluent coming out of a dual stage is still below 8.00 closer to 7.60.. So
then I started thinking of putting an air stone in the bottom of the PM effluent
canister.. That sounds like a good idea, but then I had a really really good or
bad idea.. Here it is.. I could get a Schuran Pico calcium reactor hook it up in
series after the
JetStream 1 and instead of bubbling CO2 into it, I could
bubble Oxygen.. I could get another PH controller and have the effluent getting
to my tank at 8.20.. What do you guys think? Thanks, Tommy
<Well, first of all I think that I wish I had your equipment budget! Bubbling
oxygen would have no advantage over bubbling air. There is so little CO2
in the air that each would work equally well to scrub out CO2.
Also, aerating the effluent aggressively and raising the pH would cause the
dissolved minerals to precipitate, therefore eliminating the benefit of the
reactor.
I really do think your problem will be solved by controlling the reactor based
on effluent pH rather than tank pH. If you continue to have problems after this
change, then I would consider if you have adequate water movement and gas
exchange in the tank. Also, if you live in a very new house, some are built so
tight that CO2 can actually accumulate in the house! You can verify this by
aerating a sample of water for several hours INdoors. Measure the pH. Aerate the
same sample for several hours OUTdoors and measure the pH again. If there is a
change of more than about 0.2 pH units, you need to get some fresh air into the
room where your tank is. Best Regards. AdamC.>
Oh Jeez, It's "Him" Again - Oxygen reactor?? 10/15/05
Hi guys, it's me again. I have an AquaMedic Ph controller monitoring the PH inside the
JetStream.. I also have my Aquacontroller Monitoring the PH in
the tank. If the tank PH falls below 8.20 the Aquacontroller shuts off the AquaMedic PH Controller which shuts off the
CO2.
<Mmm, the pH shut-off setting needs to be lower>
I have the drip rate into my sump pretty low. I also have the CO2 bubble count as low as I
can. I have a Euro-Reef skimmer running 24-7, 2 Tunze Stream pumps 24-7. I have a
Mag-12 circulating through the sump. If the excess CO2 is as easy to blow
off as you say it is, then why does my ph drop like a rock when the 20k 250w HQI's go off?
<Mmm, the "countervailing" effects of photosynthesis... think about the "light reaction"... when the algae are "really going" they are taking up a bunch of the available
CO2... which if not would be going, staying in solution (longer) as carbonic acid... lowering pH... Understanzee?>
Within 3 hours the tank ph is somewhere around 7.90. At 2am it's at 7.73.. I just tested everything before I hooked up the
CR. Also these are the readings before I did a 20% water change.. Any idea's on why my ph swings so much?
<... the carbon dioxide you're feeding it... likely your best solution here is to incorporate a timer to shut off this feed during the "dark hours">
ALK total: 2.5 meq/L or was it mg/L.. Seachem Reef status.
ALK: 80 PPM.. MOTT test kit..
MAG: 1250 meq/L.. Seachem Reef status test kit.
CAL: 420 MG/L.. I can't keep these meq's and MG's straight.. What is MEQ?
<Milliequivalents (per liter)... a measure of relative concentration... please se |