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FAQs about Fish-Only Marine System Filtration
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UGF Alternatives Fish Only 4/23/2009
Good Morning Crew!
<Hello>
Many thanks to all of you, I have been very happy with the site and
all the advice.
<Thank you for the kind words.>
I am looking at changing the filtration for my 55 gal. tank.
<OK>
I've gone out and bought a protein skimmer, which I haven't set up
yet.
<This will go a long way towards improving water quality.>
I am considering abandoning my UGF. I know from research that when
maintained properly they can be very effective and easy filters to
have and I've since changed my die hard perspective on they're
'un-cool-ness'.
<They have their advantages and disadvantages. Overall, there are
much better alternatives out there though.>
I believe I would be much better off converting to a FOWLR tank.
<I agree. There are many advantages to converting to live rock>
I find that the plates get caked with detritus easily. I must
confess that I work long hours and I am not always able to take the
time to clean the plates properly. As a result, my Nitrates and
phosphates stay higher than I would like.
<Not surprising.>
I have been doing small water changes, and completely cleaned the
gravel which is about 3-4 inches deep,
<Do try to change 10 - 15% per week.>
What I'm having trouble with is all the options I has in converting
and I don't know what would be best. Should I remove the plates
completely, cap them and leave them, or just clean under them and
replace them. I believe this to be the least traumatic. I've used
this filter for as long as the tank has been running and I'm
comfortable with it. I've gone through your site, and read the
articles, such as the pros/cons of UGF by Bob.
Any advice you could give would be a big help.?
<Hmm, for a setup like this, I would clean under the plates and cap
them off (just leave them in place). Add cycled live rock, about one
pound per gallon of water in the tank, and get the skimmer running
as soon as
possible. Additionally, if a sump or refugium is not practical, I
would look into getting a canister filter for mechanical and
chemical filtration, and adding a power head or two for additional
water movement.. These,
along with regular water changes, and you will see a dramatic
improvement in your water quality and livestock health.>
<Best of luck and do send a follow up when you get your new setup>
<Mike>
Fish Only Tank, 120 stkg., filtr. 7/23/08 Hey
guys thanks for your time. I am looking to convert my 120 tall to a
fo system. I would like to have a dogface puffer, niger trigger and a
Humu. <Mmm, do make sure all are getting foods> No live sand or
rock. <I would use LR...> I was wondering if this tank is big
enough for all 3. <A bit crowded psychologically, but with proper
set-up, maintenance, could be made to work> I currently have a Rena
xp3, a magnum 350 deluxe with bio wheel and a penguin 330. Would this
filtration be enough for what I hope to do. <Mmm, I would look into
other types of filtration other than canister, outside power... and have
more circulation. Likely otherwise you'll be constantly fighting the
mal-affects of nutrient accumulation> Also, is it a must to have a
skimmer? <I definitely would with this set-up, stocking> I have
been told it is not but I will need to do more frequent water changes
than if I did. <False economy... more expensive, less fun...> I
have a 35 gallon reef with a rio nano skimmer but I'm sure it would do
no good on this system. Thank you for your advice, it is greatly
appreciated. <Mmm, do a bit of reading here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm the first Index... on FO set
ups, the second Index on Filtration... Bob Fenner>
FO filtration 11/24/07 Hello Bob, <Campbell> How
are you? <Fine thanks> I am at the planning stage of a
non-predatory FOWLR with Inverts system where the main display will
hold approx 900 litres (240g US) 8'x2'x2' but I am in a bit of a
bind over filtration. The system will have a sump measuring 84" or
92"x18"x18" or thereabouts and I have read so much about filtration,
from yourself, Calfo, Tyree et al that I seem to have hit a spot of
"analysis paralysis" <Heeee! Good term> What I am hoping to
achieve is a nice balanced system that provides a steady supply of,
supplementary, planktonic food for some of the fish I would like to
keep, IE Anthias and Mandarins or Scooters, but where Nitrates are
not going to be a concern when the bigger fish, Majestic Angel,
Powder Blue Tang and Raccoon Butterfly, are introduced. I'd prefer
not to use a skimmer, if possible, and my head is full of
Bio-towers, DSBs, Cryptic zones etc I seem to be a bit lost.
<Mmm, all good technologies, possibilities...> Can you help at
all? <In what way? Choices in gear?> Thanks in advance,
Campbell P.S CMA is a great book, thanks for writing it, I just
wish everyone would take your advice and quarantine their animals.
The number of sad tales of, totally avoidable, wipe-outs and near
wipe-outs, especially to Whitespot (C. Irritans) on the Internet
these days makes one want to weep. <Thanks. Please make it known
specifically what you have concerns re... Bob Fenner>
Re: FO filtration... still way too general - 11/26/07
Hi Bob, <Campbell> Thanks for your reply. <Welcome>
Sorry my first email was a bit ambiguous. I am seeking your advice
on how best to setup the sump and filtration to efficiently process
waste and reduce nitrate but at the same time provide a nice level
of planktonic food. <I see... there are "many roads" to
accomplish this... and much depends on other goals... how much time
you want to invest in investigating, funds to be committed, ongoing
time to maintain... Choices> As I said I have about 7 foot or so
to play with so I want to do the best I can for my fish in the space
available. Is a skimmer a must in this setup or would a small-ish
bio-tower and massive DSB be a better option, by massive I mean
approx 48" to 60" long by 18" wide section. with 6" deep sand.
Regards, Campbell <I would have a small skimmer... and run it
at least on a punctuated basis... no bio-towers... Do like DSBs...
much more to go over... Again, the shortest path here of
self-discovery/enlightenment is for you to peruse WWM... the second
sub-index of the root/marine web... Filtration. I would get/use a
RDP lighting rig... culture a couple of species of macrophytes...
Please... keep reading, take good notes... and we'll be chatting.
BobF> |
Is a Refugium Beneficial To
a Fish-Only System? (Yes!) – 05/19/07 Hey Eric, <<Hey
Daniel!>> Understood, NO medicating in the Main Display; Quarantine
tank, only. <<Ahh, very good…very good indeed…>>
I will put in 4 to 5 inches of Live Sand in, and 25 lbs of live rock for
a 30 gallon Refugium, or is that too much? <<Sounds fine>>
Light(s) will be one for 10 to 12 hours/day. <<Are these on the
refugium? If so, then I would like to suggest a macroalgae in place of
or in addition to the live rock (why don’t you have rock in the
display?). The macroalgae will provide additional nutrient export, is
an excellent matrix in which planktonic/plankton producing organisms
will flourish, as well as providing some pH support you won’t get from
the rock. As for biological filtration alone, a fluidized bed filter is
an excellent option. These filters have tremendous capacity, as well as
the ability to quickly “ramp up” to changing bio loads. I’m not saying
what you have planned is “bad” nor won’t work...just presenting you some
options/opinions to consider>> Also, being that this Refugium is
primarily used for filtration, OK to have Snails and Hermit Crabs?
<<You can…>> Not sure what else should go in... <<No need to add
anything…the refugium will develop its own range of interesting and
beneficial biota in time>> Thank you so much for your time, I really
appreciate it! Daniel <<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>
R2: Is a Refugium Beneficial To a Fish-Only System? (Yes!) – 05/22/07
Hey Eric, <<Hi Daniel>> Hope you had a great weekend! <<Mmm,
no...not great>> My apologies, I have one more
question for you: <<No worries mate>> Per your
inquiry, I have no Live Rock in the Display tank because the premise of
my 'fish only' system was in case of an emergency/illness, I could treat
the Display tank without having to worry about the effects on Live Rock
and Inverts. <<This is a faulty/bad premise my friend...live rock or
not, you do have biological filters/functions important to the health of
the display that will be destroyed by the use of medicants>> In this
string, you state to never medicate the Display. <<Correct>> Why
wouldn't you do this for a 'fish only' system? <<As just explained>>
Are medications (i.e. copper) bad for the Protein Skimmer and/or Wet/Dry
filter (Bio Balls)? <<The latter, yes>> (My
175 bow tank has: Foxface, Queen Angel, Purple Tang, Heniochus, 7 Green
Chromis, 2 Neon Gobies, Coral Beauty, Longnose Hawkfish, Six Line
Wrasse, and Diadem Dottyback.) <<Very nice...and the addition of a
tasteful display of live rock would be welcomed by all>> Thank you!
Daniel <<Always welcome. Eric Russell>> R3: Is a Refugium
Beneficial To a Fish-Only System? (Yes!) – 05/23/07 Hello Eric,
<<Hello Daniel>> Sorry to read your weekend didn't go well, hope
things get better for you soon. <<Thank you for this>> Looks
like I lied, one more important thing. <<Not a problem...I’m here to
assist>> About 4 months ago, I did use copper in the Display tank to
treat what appeared to be Ich. <<Mmm...>> The problem was
resolved, and the fish today are vibrant and active (though do tend to
hide more than I'd like). <<Perhaps a symptom of “not enough”
readily available hiding places...in other words, perhaps the fishes
just don’t feel “comfortable” in their surroundings>> I've read on
WetWebMedia that copper binds itself to rock and substrate <<To
calcareous substances, yes>> - would it have done so with the Bio
Balls? <<I think not (plastic), though it would certainly have
damaged the beneficial bacteria thereon>> Even though I used carbon
to rid the tank of copper, could the Bio Balls now be contaminated, and
not operating to the best of their ability? <<I don’t think the plastic
media itself is an issue, but if you have residual levels of copper in
the system this could well be affecting your biological filter. You
should test for copper/try running some of Seachem’s Cupramine to see if
this causes a change/improvement in behavior. You don’t mention what
the fishes are hiding “in/among” but if this is dead coral skeletons
these too could absorb/ be a source of copper left over by the
medication>> Thank you very much, I appreciate it! Daniel
<<Glad to help. Eric Russell>> FO marine filtration
1/30/06 Hi. I have been reading your site but am getting a bit
confused. I had salt water tanks in the past but it has been about 10
years and many things seemed to have changed. <Have> I have two
local fish stores and am getting contradictory advice. <This has not
changed> I just bought a 220 gallon tank and am wanting to set it up
properly. My goal is to have 200 pounds or more of live rock and then
all fish. This won't be a reef tank. One store says that a good pump and
a good protein skimmer added with the rock is all the filtration I'll
need. The other store says since it will be all fish, that I'll need the
rock as well as a good wet dry filter for filtration. I really want this
tank to be successful and plan on going slow with cycling and adding
fish but would like to know what is best for filtration. Also one store
likes the use of a UV sterilizer and one doesn't so again I am confused.
Thanks ahead of time for any advice you can give. Heather <... these
issues are covered on WWM, as well as the justification/rationale for
the stated positions. My real advice? Get a good complete marine
aquarium book and study... learn the background science here re your
choices... there are "many roads"... and those stated above are just two
of many. Bob Fenner>
150 gallon, filter, skimmer, stocking
12/13/05 Hi, You guys are excellent!! <Thanks! We do our
best!> I have had a 10 gallon saltwater with a blue devil and a
green Chromis for a year, and I have recently purchased a 150 gallon
tank and while cycling I thought I might make a stocking list so as
not to get caught up in the impulse buying business. <GOOD ON YOU!> It
will be fish only. I have ordered a Eheim (read you like them)
<Best can.s out there. >2217 canister will this be big enough (Eheim
says yes)? <Eh, depends on your goals. You can always add another later
if you discover you need it.> What skimmer (hang on) would be suitable
(brand)? <AquaC RemoraPro, or Deltec MCE600.> I have been window
shopping and picked my favorites after weeding out some with other
Fish only people on aggression issues. Please tell me if there are too
many, if they are too big, and if they will get along. Other options
are welcome. Remove or add as required. Large Angel
(which one) 1/2 the people say tank is not large enough to house a
large angel <Imperator would be my choice!> Pink tail trigger <Excellent
trigger.> Naso tang <Uh oh - gets huge, needs swimming room!> A
pair of smaller tangs Kole or purple <Kole is okay, Purple gets BIG.>
Dwarf puffer <Fun!> snowflake eel or dwarf golden (prefer the
snowflake) <Me too.> Will these be fish food? bi-color angel
<Not fish food, but quite a gamble on robustness. Put down a deposit on
one and have the LFS keep it for a couple weeks or more, before you
commit.> tomato clown <Get a good-sized one to start (or a Maroon)
and this fish can take care of itself quite well.> I do not wish to
overstock or have an aggression problem, and I would need to know
what order to add them to prevent territory disputes <Decide exactly
what you want first, then worry about stocking-order. Generally,
least-aggressive goes first.> I will not be upgrading anytime soon
so they need to be happy in this tank as adults too. <Excellent! But
you'll have to forget about the Naso for sure.> Thanks for coming to
work today! You are appreciated <You're welcome! Happy Holidays!
-Zo>
Filtration for a fish only tank 11/30/05
Ladies and Gentlemen, (not sure who might answer this...) <Nods>
My name's Nate and I have a 75 gallon (tall) aquarium. I am in the
process of constructing a stand and hood. This aquarium will be a fish
only predator tank and I plan on filling it with as many as I can.
<Not too many, I hope> I have had several smaller marine aquariums
before but always with hang-on or canister filters. My plans were to
build a wet/dry as the single form of filtration for this tank.
<Good idea> I have reviewed several of WWM's articles, all of which
shun the use of bio-balls, however the majority of these articles are
focused around reef aquariums. What would the 'perfect' filtration
set-up for this aquarium be? <It depends on stocking densities and
how messy the "predators" are. Some people stock fish only aquariums
such that live rock and skimmer-based systems could not cope without
additional filtration. Additionally, without inverts, your livestock
will not be as sensitive to nitrates. However, it is still a worthy goal
to keep nitrates as low as possible, and as such I would stock lightly
and try to depend on live rock (backed up by a skimmer) for balanced
filtration> If you can help me with which and how much bio media I
can figure the rest out. <Bio balls are fine... as many as you can
fit in the trickle path> Do I need a skimmer or live rock for a fish
only tank? <Highly beneficial -- it would make your life much easier
in the long run> You guys have been such a great help so far - thank
you for your guidance and wisdom <Best regards & god luck! John>
Big Fishes Need Big Tanks/Big Filtration - 11/26/05 I guess I
messed up sending this before. Any advice on this? Thank you.
<<No worries...sometimes happens.>> Hi WWM, <<Howdy>> Love
your site! I'm in a quandary. I'm in the midst of renovating my house
and have decided that I will not be getting a bigger tank than my
current 180g. <<ok>> It has a 10" Arothron meleagris Gold
Puffer <<Also known (perhaps better) as the Guinea fowl puffer.>>
and a 7" Clown Trigger. Since this will be their permanent home, will
it be big enough for them as adults if I don't add any other fish?
<<Mmm...big/robust fishes...messy feeders...pushing the limits here in
my opinion...but you can probably get away with it for a few more
years.>> If it is, could I at some point add one last fish: a small
species of moray, such as a snowflake or jewel, or a 10" max. size
fish, such as a Grammistes sexlineatus grouper, or Maroon Clown?
<<If your filtration is adequate (wet/dry and/or fluidized-bed
filters...large quality skimmer(s)...ozone...chemical filtration...some
live rock), I think one of the eels would be the better choice due to
their sedentary nature...would also make for a more interesting display,
in my mind.>> I had a large snowflake in with them previously and
the three got along great and stayed very healthy. If you say "no",
is it because of too little room, or fear of the trigger's temperament?
<<The trigger can be/will remain a threat. I've not witnessed it, but
I've heard from more than one source that with the exception of very
large (e.g. - Public) aquaria, eventually, one day, Balistoides
conspicillum will decide to kill everything in the tank...>> I've
grown pretty attached to these fish and would hate to have to give them
up to get smaller ones. <<Understood...maybe you should reconsider
the larger tank after all.>> Thanks. <<Regards, EricR>>
Filtration question 11/21/05 Hi WWM, I am going to start
a 135 gallon FO tank. For filtration I am planning on using two emperor
400s, 2 maxi-jet 1200s, and a DSB to keep nitrates down. This would give
me 1390 GPH. Is this enough? <Not the route I would go, but depends
on what you intend to keep, and what you want to "do" with it...> If
its not, maybe I would add a Fluval 404. Is this needed? <Something
more is likely called for in the way of biological, mechanical
filtration> Also I have gotten mixed opinions on whether or not a
protein skimmer is absolutely necessary for FO tanks. <It is> I
like the TurboFlotor 1000multi. Do you think I should add this or
anything else? I have limited funds so live rock isn't possible.
Thanks, Patrick <Please read on WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm
and the linked files above, until you understand what you're up to here.
Bob Fenner> 75G Filtration Question...But more info. needed -
10/20/2005 Hello, <Greetings!> Great site! I have made
it my ³one stop shop² for advice and help. I need a little advice about
filtration...<Hope I can help.> I have a Fish-Only 75G Marine tank
that just started a couple of weeks ago.<Welcome to a new addiction!> I
have an Emperor 400 and a Coralife Super Skimmer 125 gallon for chemical
and mechanical filtration.<ok> I have two powerheads (175gph and 225
gph) - one in the upper left corner and one in the lower right. I
don¹t currently have any live rock but am not opposed to adding some if
it is needed.<?> My substrate is crushed coral. So far my readings
are: Ammonia .5<well..?>, Nitrite 0, and Nitrate 5. Currently I
have a small tank-raised False Perc Clown, a blue-green Chromis and a
Royal Gramma (small).<At this point you should not have any of
these.> All seem to be happy in their new home. <Until...?> I would
like to add some larger fish (flame angel, yellow tang...) when my tank
finishes the cycling process, but am not sure if my filtration is
adequate.<Filtration aside, tank cycling should be done
fishless!> Should I add a second power filter?<Possible.> Switch to
Wet/Dry?<Again possible.> Add a sand bed (replace the crushed
coral?)<Again>, Canister Filter?<And AGAIN, possible!> The back of my
tank is already a little busy, so I am not sure what the biggest ³bang
for my buck² would be to help my tank stay healthy.<This is all up to
you. What do you want your tank to do? There are many avenues to
success in this hobby. The most important one is consistency.> I have
read as much as is written on filtration from both this site and Mr.
Fenner¹s book and still can¹t decide.<Are you sure? I mean all? It
seems to me that you have missed much in these writings. There is not a
real direct "formula" for this if that's what you mean.> Thanks so much
for your help. You don¹t realize what you all contribute to this hobby
from this site alone! <Brian, please understand that I only mean to
help you here, but you have much more studying to do. It does not seem
that you have much of a "game plan". This is all answered on this site
(and in Bobs' book). Again, you could do any/all of these. There is no
way for us to actually communicate this via email (far to much
information to be presented. Start here (marine aquarium set-up FAQ's)
with your research and venture out as you wish. - Josh> Best,
Brian Filtration in a fish only tank Dear crew,
I have been successful in keeping all my freshwater fish
and a pond now for 2 years. I have always seen the saltwater tanks and
been amazed by the fish. For the last two months I have been reading
every book and every website that I can find. I have settled on the
size tank, which will be an 85g, and it will be fish only. I cannot
figure out what type of filtration will be best. The livestock I would
like to have is 1 yellow tang, 1 blue tang, 2 clownfish, and 1 porcupine
fish. Decorations would be light, some live rock and some fake
corals. My stand, lights, and hood I can make myself, so I looked into
building my own wet\dry filters, but heard they could lead to
problems. Could I use a Whisper power filter 4, a Skilter 400, and 2
300gph power heads? I would really like the advice on filtration.
<You could run your system minimally with the gear listed. I would get
at least another power filter and greatly upgrade your skimmer
selection. The various types of set-ups and alternative modes of
filtration, product reviews are posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com
for your perusal. Please take the time to familiarize yourself with this
information. Bob Fenner> Adding Live rock to F.O.
system... >Good day Wet-Webbers, >>And good day to you,
Lenny. Marina here. >I have a 140 gal. F.O. system using
Bio-balls/Protein Skimmer w/ 50/50 Actinic fluorescent lighting. I
have an aggressive tank w/ lion, purple tang, emperor angel, Foxface,
harlequin tusk and Clown trigger. Is it possible to add a large piece
of Live Rock to my tank without changing lighting (or if so, enLIGHTEN
me) I thought doing this would help bring my nitrates down and secondly
allow my herbivores to graze on the rock. >>Of course you
can. Live rock generally requires no lighting unless it has
photosynthetic animals or algae upon it that you wish to grow. However,
do know that if it is encrusted with such, it will quickly be
consumed. Also, please know that in order to reduce nitrates, you will
need an amount of live rock equal to 1-2lbs./gallon of total tank
volume. A more efficient way to garner natural nitrate reduction would
be to plumb in a refugium, where you can put in live rock, a deep sand
bed (a.k.a. DSB), and grow macroalgae cultures that will help sop up
excess nutrients, and they'll be removed via harvest of said
algae. Please search our site for all articles and FAQ's on refugiums
(I do prefer this methodology to plenums) for complete setup and
maintenance information. Also, don't let anyone try to tell you that
the wet-dry filtration method is a "nitrate factory". You will end up
with nitrates no matter WHAT method of nitrification is used, and their
reasoning is logical fallacy, true sophistry. What is needed is a
method by which the nitrates can be further reduced to their components,
ending with nitrogen gas. This is well-executed utilizing the refugium
with DSB. >Right now my tank has lava rock and skeleton coral with
Puka shell (Aruba) substrate. >>Begin on our homepage
http://www.wetwebmedia.com -->go to "marine aquarium articles" -->go
to "set-up" -->go to the sections on natural nitrate reduction, plenums
(you'll see what a PITA they are), deep sand beds, and refugia
articles. There's more information there than you can shake a stick at,
and by the time you're finished you'll practically be an expert
(ex-spurt?)! Best of luck to you! Marina Starting a fish only
marine tank Hi guys, you have been extremely helpful in the past
and I have a few other questions to ask. <Good to hear> I have a
35g tank with one Aquaclear 200 and one Aquaclear 150 along with 150watt
heater. I have been planning to set this up as a African Cichlid tank,
but I am so drawn to the Yellow Tangs and Clown Fish that I have to ask.
can I use these filters adequately for a fish only marine tank? If this
set up won't work, what would I have to change? <For the tang, you
need a much larger tank, at least 4' and 6' would be better. The clowns
would be OK. I would add some live rock (25-30#) to help with bio
filtration and a skimmer would be a great addition as well. A couple of
power heads to get some water movement wouldn't hurt. Don> Cheers.
Mike Filtration setup on a fish only. 08/03/03 Hello
again! <Hi Leo, PF with you tonight> I am planning of starting a
500 gallon saltwater system (fish only), but was wondering for the
filter what should I use , I was thinking about an overflow that will go
trough a pre-filter (sponge, foam of some sort ....), after that the
water will fall into the bio-balls, to get to the sump where there will
be a Berlin protein skimmer, with the water returning from the
skimmer to the sump (maybe through carbon filter not know if needed?)
and then back to the system. Will that system work or should change
something , was looking trough your site and now I don't really know
what to do ? Also have an U.V but don't know if should use it and
where exactly! Thank you again for your help. Leo <Well Leo, I
would skip the pre-filter unless you plan on cleaning it out every day
or so, it will become a nitrate sink. As for carbon, here's the FAQ
on it: www.wetwebmedia.com/carbonfaqs.htm . I would advise running it
for a few days every month with the system you are envisioning. The
sump sounds good, but you don't really need the bio balls. Have you
thought about a refugium instead? Read more here:
www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm . It would not only help filter your
water, but would add planktonic life to help support your tank. By
placing it first in your system, the detritus laden water would act as
fertilizer for your detritivores/macro algae instead of adding nitrates
to your system. As for uv, IMO it's not really needed in most cases.
Here's some more info for you. www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm . All
in all, it sounds like a nice setup, which I had a 500g tank to work
with. : ) Have a good evening, PF> - Starting a New Tank -
Hi, how are you? I want to start a new 55 gal. SW fish only tank. I
was wondering what time of filtration system I should aim for. I had in
mind to do a sump so.. what would be the best for my system... Berlin
system, use live rock and bio-media, canister filter, wet-dry??
<Something similar to the Berlin system is how I would go - live rock,
skimmer, sump, good circulation in the tank.> I know that they are all
good type of filtration media but what do you recommend the most for an
F.O. tank? <Just that, doesn't need to be complicated.> I'm planning to
have some hardy species like damsels, clown fish, an angel fish and
maybe an anemone. <I'd skip the anemone, but if you insist make certain
that you have very strong lighting - metal halide is what you would
need.> Should I use live rock in the sump? <I wouldn't hurt.> Use a good
filter... <If you used the Berlin method, the filter sock would be more
than adequate.> Anyways.. help me, I read some books including yours but
I still don't know what would be the best for what I want... If you
have some question for giving me a better answer please ask me. <No
worries, as I said, the simple approach is the best one.> Thx for
your help Very good site by the way an sorry for my English, I'm
French :P <Aucun s'inquiète, mon plaisir.> Charles <Cheers, J -- >
Best Filtration for a 110g FO Tank I'm setting up a 110 gallon
fish only tank. I work at a highly regarded pet shop where
everyone is very experienced, <you're very lucky and so are your
customers. I wish I had one of those around when I started> ..and
they are all telling me something different. <That is not all that
unusual in this hobby. I am sure you have heard the expression
"different strokes for different folks". There is more than one way to
get the same or similar effect > For filtration for a fish only tank
is it better to have a canister and a hang on filter, a wet dry with a
hang on, or just a wet dry? What is the ideal filtration for a fish only
tank? < Live rock, sand and a Protein skimmer would be very
beneficial. The type of fish you want keep should be taken into
consideration when making this decision. For instance Puffers, Eels and
Triggers are much messier eaters, heavy waste producers and can have few
if any clean up critters in their tanks as most will make meals of the
clean up crew. So as a result require more filtration than some of the
cleaner less messy fish. I am really not sure there is any ideal. As you
can gather form your co workers advice there are different ways to do
the same thing. The best advice I can give you is to do some research of
your own and once you have done some reading, formulate some questions
and ask for trusted friends experiences. You can start with this article
Archetypal “Fish-Only Marine Systems"
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishonsetup.htm as well as the related
FAQs
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fosetupfaqs.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fosetupfaq3.htm You could also post
here on the Chat Forums
http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ asking what has worked best for folks
with your size tank and proposed stock list. There are also some
good threads on
http://www.reefcentral.com. What works well for one may not work
well for another. I can tell you canisters are not my favorite filters.
I have 2 high end canisters sitting in my garage. They came highly
recommended by several folks whose opinions I trust. I find them to be a
pain to get out from under the tank for cleaning and media changes and
not only that, no matter how careful I was opening and closing them, I
always had water on the carpet. Some might say I am just messy :). So
guess what.....I didn't clean the darn things as often as I should have
and I had some problems in my tanks at the time and lost some fish. It
does not matter how ideal something may be if you don’t use it properly
it could be considered be close to useless, as those canisters were for
me. I am not sure which, if any of the hang on the back filters
would be appropriate for a 110g. I have done quite a bit of research and
most if not all are rated for smaller tanks. I did come across one hang
on the back wet/dry trickle with a skimmer but have no experience with
it. It seems from reading the posts on several boards that wet/dry
trickle filters are preferred by most FO keepers Most of the folks with
tanks over 50g seem to use sumps and refugiums. I can say I personally
need something I can get to easily without making a mess. > Thanks!
<Your quite welcome>, Leslie FO Marine Filtration, Feeding the
Lions Hiya, <Hello there> We have a 75 gal. tank w/ one
Fluval 304 and one Fluval 404, very thin substrate, weekly 10% water
changes, one Picasso Trigger and one V. Lionfish, now for the
question...is the filtration system(s) enough or should we be using
something else due to the kids' waste output? <Mmm, could> The
Picasso is so easy to feed a variety of frozen food and live gut loaded
occasionally as a treat. He'll eat anything but flake food. Now the Lion
is a little tougher switching over. Is time a factor here?
<Sometimes...> We've had him for one week tomorrow. He's hasn't gone
for anything frozen... ya know, the I'm gonna eat dance and then
realizes it's frozen and snubs it??? We will try to starve him, but what
is a recommended amount of time for the starvation? <Depends on size,
state of condition... weeks> He's about 4 inches long, just a baby.
We lost a Lion a few years back due to lack of knowledge, and with the
help of your website, we are learning quite a lot about all things
marine, and we thank you for that! Any help w/ the above is greatly
appreciated. Thanks Jenn & Bob <Glad to share. Bob Fenner>
150 gallon Fish only tank filter choices... Hey guys I want to
get a 150 gallon Fish only tank and want the best quality water for my
fish. Money is no object. I was wondering if I should get a wet/dry
filter system with a skimmer or get a refugium system with a skimmer?
What is the best way to go. Thanks, Will <Depends... wet-dries are
pretty passé nowadays... but are useful for some folks... mainly with
all-fish set-ups. Rather than money, trial and error, I encourage you to
spend your time educating yourself re options here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm Bob Fenner>
Re: 150 gallon Fish only tank Thanks Bob, I did some research and
for some reason I like the sound of a refugium set up with a skimmer. I
did look at many manufactures and ways to set one up and my head is
about to explode...Any suggestions on systems you liked, that worked for
you? <Not that there is space, time for here. You would do well to
peruse the last published effort by Antoine and myself:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/dealers_and_distributors.htm
as a good quarter of it is devoted to Refugiums... Bob Fenner>
54 Gallon Corner Setup I want to set up a 54 Gallon Corner Tank
- SW Fish Only. I was considering the tank with a built in overflow but
I heard it may be somewhat noisy (constant waterfall?).<It's very
bearable> Also, should I go with a wet/dry sump type filter or maybe an
Eheim canister for this size tank?<Wet/dry> I've gone through numerous
articles on the site regarding types of filtration and see numerous
opinions. I 'm really confused on what to get. I would appreciate your
specific input. <Personally I would go with an Ecosystem 60 hang on or
sump model.> Also, I've read many of the articles and you guys
obviously recommend using Live Rock. With a Fish Only Tank, would I
still have good results not using Live Rock.<You will need a biological
filter of some sort.> I've read that if you have to medicate your tank
at any time, the chemicals would kill the Live Rock. I will not have a
hospital or quarantine tank available. Let me know your input on that.
<If copper is used, it certainly won't help the rock any. Invertebrates
will be lost. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks for your help. Mitch
Adding Live Rock to Fish Only 4/17/05 Hello Crew. Just a couple
LR questions. I plan on adding some LR to my fish only setup(55g). I
currently have a 48" single strip with a Hagen PowerGlo bulb. Is this
adequate? Also, do I need to quarantine the rock prior to placing it in
the display tank? If so, could it be quarantined with the new fish to
aid in filtration. Thank you for always taking the time to respectfully
answer my questions, many of which are likely "dumb" questions. <The
live rock will need to by cycled (Even if it is sold as "pre-cured" or
"pre-cycled"). No fish are necessary and should not be present. The time
it takes to cycle will also serve as a quarantine. You can use just
about any kind of container to cycle the rock in, but ideally the rock
should fit loosely. While cycling, the rock should be treated like it is
alive! Strong water movement, water changes, proper temperature and
salinity and maintenance of calcium and alkalinity will ensure that as
much live survives as possible. Once ammonia and nitrite are zero, the
rock can be moved to the display. Best Regards. AdamC.>
New to
Saltwater Bob, I am new to saltwater aquariums. I had a 30
inch cube glass tank made for a certain location in my new home. The
tank has a center column overflow so it can be viewed from all sides. I
have ordered two power compacts for lighting. filtration is a wet/dry
with protein skimmer. I am still in the design process for the built in
cabinet. I would like for it to be a fish only tank until I get more
familiar with the water chemistry process. <Good idea> My
question is: I am going for a uncluttered look. A few rocks and
miscellaneous for hiding places. To season my tank I was thinking of
live sand instead of live rock. <A possibility... I would use
both... or at least some live along with your "base" (non-live) rock...
more reliable for cycling... less algae problems down the line>
Eventually I would like to turn this in to a Reef tank. When I get more
knowledge and funds) Would you recommend that I place some live sand in
the sump of the Wet/Dry? And how much would I need to purchase? Mark
McCrary >> <I wouldn't place the live sand down in your sump... Do
investigate the possibility, however, of building a plenum/denitrator
there with non-line substrates (two grades)... More on this issue can be
perused at my site: Home Page , under the Marine Index, terms like
"plenum". Bob Fenner> Just getting started. I am just
getting started with a 75 gal tank. I have purchased a RIO 600 power
skim and have a wet trickle filter with bioballs. currently I only
have 1 40watt light. I am going to the store and buying R/O water to
start. Is this a good start. Do I need more lighting if I want to
have live rock. How much live rock should I put in the tank? Being a
beginner should I stick with fish only? As much info you can
recommend is greatly appreciated. chi >> Welcome to the
ever-fascinating learning, and fun experience of marine aquarium
keeping. Yes to more lighting... even if you're going to make this a
fish only system, and even more so if you intend to have live rock...
Look for full spectrum fluorescent lamps... While you're
investigating matters, do consider getting, rigging up your own reverse
osmosis unit... If you consider your tapwater as unsuitable for your
marine aquarium, you shouldn't be drinking or using it for cooking...
and such units are inexpensive, easy to install... For live rock
stocking... more is better... up to a pound to a pound in a half per
gallon... Check out the by the "box" deals FFExpress.com has... better
to get it and cure it this way. Do consider first going "fish only"
until you have a bit of experience... FO systems are more forgiving,
less subject to outright problems than fish and invertebrate to reef
systems... But do keep looking, studying, dreaming... and direct your
livestock purchases to organisms that will mix (not big "eater uppers")
for the time upcoming (I sense you're a fast learner) when you'll be
craving a reef. Bob Fenner I recently wrote you about me
upgrading my 125 FOWLR to an 180 FOWLR. My equipment consist of a 25
watt UV, MAK 4 pump, Turboflotor 1000, Nuclear canister filter, Approx.
150 lbs. of LR. You stated that you would need to know what type of fish
my tank would include to determine if the Turboflotor would be efficient
enough. Here is a list of what I would like to have. Any other
recommendations would be appreciated. Coris Wrasse Dragon Wrasse
Sohal Tang Naso Tang (2) Dusky Jawfish Harlequin Tuskfish
Red Sea Sailfin Tang Assasi Trigger <The Turbo floater (I take it
this is a 1000 model) should be fine... and if it were my system, I
would probably just use this unit...> Haven't had any luck with the
large angel fishes I get them when there about 3 inches and they do well
for about a week then they start to loose there color and die on me. I'm
somewhat afraid to spend any more money on them. <Don't blame you...
and the limiting influence may well be all these other fishes... really
kind of crowded... psychologically if not physiologically...> With
this setup and fish like this do I need to concentrate more on a better
protein skimmer or adding a 30 gal refugium with LR? <The latter if
not both> If both which one first, How many lbs. of LR should be in
the refugium? <the order stated, and about twenty to thirty
depending on shape, density... and with Macroalgae and lighting...
simple, on the sump.> Since space is kind of a concern if the
refugium is added what I would do is connect my drains to a 100 micron
filter bag at one end of the tank and have my protein skimmer next to it
then my live rock, (would this be okay?) or does it need to be separate?
<Can be together as stated> How can one tell if he has enough LR in a
system to maintain it? Will a Dolphin pump be quieter and save me more
money in the long run if I change pumps since I will have about 5ft of
head pressure? Lots of questions but your assistance would be greatly
appreciated. Thank You <Measures of nitrate are indicative, and the
Dolphin/other direct drive fractional HP pump, is a very good idea on
all counts. Bob Fenner> Filtration for a FO System I
currently upgrading my 125gal FOWLR tank to a 180gal. My question is
what kind of filtration system would work the best on a heavily loaded
system containing a red Coris wrasse, dragon wrasse, Queen angel, Naso
and Sohal tangs. More fish will be added later. I currently have a Mak 4
pump, 25 watt U.V sterilizer, Nu-clear canister filter, 1 1/2 gallons of
bio-balls, 150lbs. of LR and a Turboflotor 1000 P.S. Would you add
another Mak 4 pump and Turboflotor 1000 or sell the skimmer and get an
reef devil 750 (would this be just a waste of money.) And far as the
mechanical filtration goes is the canister filter enough or is there a
better method. <I would stick with your current mechanicals... and
put the proposed money into a sump system with live rock, Caulerpa algae
and some lighting (leaving it on twenty four hours a day)... rather than
going to more skimming, wet-dry... You'll find this gets you the most
improved, stable water quality in the long run. Bob Fenner>
Marine Set-Up in Hawai'i (FO Filtration) Hi Bob, A friend gave
us a 100 gal tank and skimmer for our shop. <Wow, what a gift!> It
will be a fish only tank, no reef stuff since it's illegal in Hawaii.
<I understand... an overreaction (among many in gov't)> My friend
told me to "ask Bob" for what filter to buy and any other essentials,
and he will be getting us your book as a grand opening present.
<More gifts!> I am brand new to this hobby and any help would be
appreciated. Mahalo, Senji <Please read over the "Marine Aquarium
Set-Up" sections on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com and their associated
FAQs files here... there are a few "roads" to good filtration... as you
will find... depending on desired livestock, budget... even though you
can't strictly have "live rock", "live sand", stinging-celled life
imported. Bob Fenner> Filtration I started my 29 gallon
saltwater aquarium a few months ago. I have a modified SeaClone protein
skimmer (which produces a lot of dark liquid) <glad to hear it...>
and a millennium 3000 power filter along with a powerhead for
circulation. I have about 10 lbs of live rock, along with 25 lbs of base
rock, and a crushed coral substrate. For livestock, I currently have a
small yellow tang and one damsel, which is all I plan to get. <very
considerate and light for stocking> There is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites,
nitrates are at 10. The question I have today concerns the filter. I
wish to replace the millennium 3000 with a canister filter, specifically
the magnum 350. Would this filter be overkill for such a small system?
<really almost no such thing as too much filtration... sounds good to
me> If so, should I go with the smaller magnum 220 or a different
filter altogether? If I did use this, would there be sufficient
biological filtration in my system or should I get a bio-wheel to
supplement this? <nope... I wouldn't bother. Do go with your first
choice of a larger canister and also consider Eheim units. Better
biological capacity> I know that this isn't the best way to filter my
system, <really very fine... not at all weak, rest assured> but
due to the cost restrictions with being a college student, this is all I
can currently afford. Thank you for answering my questions. Mike
<fair enough... and with such a light fish load, do add and enjoy
compatible invertebrates and fauna for/from live rock. Best regards,
Anthony> Fluidized Sand vs. Trickle Filter In the
"planning stage" for a 200 gal. F/O saltwater system. Will have protein
skimmer but requesting comments re: Fluidized sand bed instead of a
typical wet/dry trickle filter. Thanks, Skipper30217 <My preference
of the two would be for the W/D. Fluidized bed sand filters rob your
tank's water of oxygen and can get very funky if you lose power. -Steven
Pro>
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