Hair algae that won't go away 03/10/2008
Good morning guys,
<<Good Morning. Andrew here today>>
First, let me say excellent site! It has been a tremendous help in the past and with the current problem.
<<Glad to hear it>>
We have been following the advice we've found on the site for our hair algae problem and have made good strides, but we can't quite get over that last hurdle. We have had hair algae for the past year and have been desperately trying to get rid of it. We discovered that our initial source that started the whole mess was that our RO filter wasn't getting all the phosphates out.
<<Ah..a good cause of hair / plague algae>>
We fixed that by buying a Kent marine RO/DI Hi S filter and doing weekly water changes. Our phosphates and nitrates are now undetectable by us and our LFS.
<<Just because your test kit does not show phosphates or nitrates, does not always mean they are not present. Its quite common for plague algae to be absorbing these nutrients and there are not enough in the water to show up on a test kit. As hair algae is prevalent, I would say this is the case here. If there were no elevated nutrients, the hair algae would die off>>
We got to this point maybe 5 months ago. Since then, we do biweekly 20% water changes and during the water change we scrub the hair algae off of all the rocks we can get to without taking them out of the tank.
<<You are possibly doing more harm than good with scrubbing the rocks in the tank, as all your doing here is spreading the hair algae. Pull the hair algae out by hand, and ensure a clean hand goes back in to the tank. I.E no hair algae goes back in. What I normally suggest for this is to have two bowls of water. One for the plucked algae, and a bowl of clean water. Pull out by hand the algae, then dip hand in clean water before going back in tank. This ensures that your hand is algae free and it cannot spread.>>
We scoop up all the algae with a net and then do the water change. This does pretty good but by the time the next water change comes around it has grown back. What I don't get is that if the nitrates and phosphates are undetectable by both us and the LFS, what is causing it to keep coming back?
and how do we stop it?
<<As mentioned above>>
We do not have a refugium so we don't have the option of growing the "good" algae crop to absorb whatever "bad" stuff is left in the tank.
Nor do we have the money to invest in one.
<<You could always add some Chaeto macro algae to a low flow area of the display tank, this will help to compete with the hair algae and absorb more of the nutrients before the hair algae can take them all. Hopefully, starving the hair algae>>
The LFS told us to add more Turbo snails, a Lawnmower Blenny, and an Urchin. We already had an Urchin so we added just the first two yesterday. I don't think it will solve the problem but it may help. We have a 90G tank, Aqua-C Remora protein skimmer, 125lbs of live rock, 75lbs of live sand, 1 Coral Beauty, 1 Black Percula Clown, 1 Copperbanded Butterfly, 2 Pajama Cardinals, 2 Blue Chromis, 1 Sea Urchin, 1 sand sifting starfish, 20 snails, 5-10 hermit crabs, 1 Chile coral, star polyps, several different colored mushrooms and Zoanthids, and some kind of leather coral I don't know the name of but spawns more like a weed ;). Any help is greatly appreciated!!
<<The lawn-mower blenny should help to resolve in managing the hair algae>>
We are at the point of giving up and selling everything since we've gotten so frustrated with it.
<<It can be very frustrating, yes, when dealing with plague algae's, however, its something to fight through and beat.>>
<<hope the above helps, thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>

Re: Hair algae that won't go away 03/10/2008
Thanks for the help!
<<No problem>>
So, it sounds like we could still be adding some phosphates to the tank from our water changes. I have checked the water going in once and the test kit showed negligible phosphates there too. But I suppose there could be enough that doesn't register or register so low you can't tell, but the algae knows its there and it is enough to sustain it. Do you think investing in one of those PhosBan reactors would help us?
Seems like it would absorb anything in the water column but if the algae already has it all absorbed up, then would it even help? This is what has kept us from trying one already. We don't want to waste money on something that may not work. I will definitely be trying the "by hand" technique instead for our next water change!
<<When you say negligible phosphates, what is the reading? A reactor is an option. Another thought, how long is the lighting on for and when was the last time you changed the bulbs?>>
The Chaeto macro algae in the main display tank was an idea I thought of trying this before but I was a bit nervous about it. I was afraid that it would spread throughout the tank as well and then I would have two kinds of algae to battle.
<<Quite a few have gone down this route. It kind of keeps itself to itself>>
Is this likely or is it more apt to just kinda stay where I put it and grow and would be easily trimmed or removed down the road?
<<Usually stays put and trim it on a weekly basis once it starts growing>>
Do you have any suggestions as to how I could put it in the main tank and keep it kind of quarantined and out of site?
<<The macro algae does need to move a little. People have chosen to have a ball behind the rock work, for example, but still able to gain access to it for trimming>>
Thanks, Mark
<<Thanks for the follow up, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Re: Hair algae that won't go away... nor simple questions due to lack of referrals...  03/10/2008
I'll have to get back to you on the phosphate numbers, they are escaping me at the moment and I don't want to give you a wrong number.
<<ok, that's fine>>
I can tell you though that the color indication from the test kit is just off from the 0 color and not even close to the next number indicator. But that is the best I can do from memory for now. The blue lights come on at 10AM and the whites at 11AM. The whites go out at 6PM and the blues go out at 7PM.
The whites are probably about 8 months old and the blues are a month or two older than that. The lights we have are 2 48" blue VHO's and 2 48" white VHO's. We started thinking that maybe some of the light from outside is causing some of our headache and have put up a blocking mechanism for that. If there are windows near by and some light filters into the aquarium from the sides, will the aquarium lights cancel out the bad with the good or is it still just plane bad? We keep the curtains closed when the lights are not on but some still filters in from other rooms.
<<It should not make a huge amount of difference unless its direct sunlight>>
A question on the Chaeto, does it grow fast enough or absorb enough of the bad stuff to take away nutrients from the hair algae resulting in starvation and dying off of the hair algae?
Or will it basically be absorbing any new nutrients that are added preventing the hair algae from
growing and it is up to us to remove the existing hair algae? Are there any benefits other than slowing the hair algae, like any of our fish will eat it for example?
<<Yes, it does have a good absorption rate and can usually out-compete plague algae>>
<<Yes, algae grazing fish will pick at it as a food source..
Thanks so much for the help! Mark
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>

Hair algae nightmare 2/5/08
I hope you can help, because I am very close to shutting down this tank.
<Don’t lose heart, the battle can be won!>
Extremely close! I've read about every article I can find and asked both LFS stores and have done and spent all I'm going to spend.
I have green hair algae in my 70 gallon reef tank. Salinity 1.024 Alk 3.5 Calc 400 nitrate 20 nitrite 0 phosphate 0.
<Raise your salinity to 1.025-1.0226, this will make the desirables that can replace the algae on the rock more competitive. Also, the nitrate has to go. You need more water changes, larger and more often for the time being, until the problem is eliminated.>
Bulbs are 3 months old running 2 96 watt pc and 2 t5's. Lights on 11 hours a day. This all started, I’m guessing, when the pc turned when the bulbs were about 1 year old. The tank is 1.5 years old. Phosphate reactor is running ROWAphos. Refugium on opposite light cycle with micro algae. <macroalgae> 5 gallon water change every Sunday with RO/DI water, tested at 0 with TDS monitor
<Test this water for nitrate and phosphate just to be sure, even after mixing in the salt. Water changes do you no good if your water contains nitrate/phosphate.>
Moderately stocked tank including a Foxface and 2 small hector gobies to eat the hair algae. Foxface doesn't touch it, hectors too small to matter. Over 100 crabs and 30 snails.
<Way overkill here.>
Things I've done so far at the advice of others:
added phosphate reactor
added uv sterilizer
<This does nothing for hair algae.>
major water changes
<More in order after confirming your water is fine.>
changed all bulbs
run refugium 24 hours a day - didn't help and not doing now
Removed every freaking rock and scrubbed from top to bottom - twice now!
Reduced feeding down to next to nothing.
shorten the light cycle to 8 hours
turn off half of my lights.
Replaced RO filters
added TDS meter to RO system
The only two things I haven’t done is completely turn off all the lights for several weeks or added tons of urchins.
<I would not recommend doing either.>
I have many large LPSs and leather corals with no place to put them. All of the leather corals are attached to the rock and sides of the tank. I would have to rip them off to get out or let them die in complete darkness. The other is load up the tanks with urchins which I think is ridiculous.
<Me too.>
After doing all of this and scrubbing every rock again and only running have lights for half time, in the matter of two weeks, it looks even worse than before. What can I possibly be missing here?
Please help
Thank you,
Brian
<Brian, what other filtration do you have? Do you have a skimmer? What substrate is in your tank? Do you have adequate circulation? The nitrate is coming from somewhere; you just need to track down where. Feeding (maybe even what you are feeding), detritus accumulation, make up water, etc. Also, do realize that doing everything right will lead to the hair algae dying off, adding these compounds back into your water. Frequent water changes will be necessary until you have this problem under control. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm

Re: Hair algae nightmare 2/6/08
Thanks for your quick response.
<Glad to help out.>
As far as your questions go, my drain goes into a sock
<Be sure to clean it frequently.>
and I do have an ASM skimmer which is pulling a lot from the tank.
<Good.>
I have a "special grade" aragonite substrate about 1 to 4" deep varying throughout the tank.
<I would even this out, in the four plus inch depth to help out with the nitrate.>
When doing the water changes, I’ve also been siphoning the sand bad also.
< Unless you have algae or detritus you are siphoning off, I would leave the sand bed alone for the most part. Allow it to reduce your nitrate. If you have detritus accumulation it is an indication of insufficient (or inadequately dispersed) water flow.>
Besides the return lines from the sump, I have a big Tunze powerhead providing tons of circulation.
<Tons? There are no circulation “dead spots” in the tank?>
As far as food, I feed frozen cubes and don't add the liquid, I use tweezers to pull the food out.
<Do be sure all food is consumed as it is added.>
So are you basically saying about the only thing feeding the hair algae is the nitrates?
<Not the only thing, but it is the greatest contributive factor for the hair algae’s proliferation in your tank…and you can control it.>
Find that and the rest will take care of itself.
<Find/resolve it and you will be well on your way, yes.>
Brian
<Good luck, Scott V.>

High pH And Hair Algae – 11/06/07
Hi Eric R (who I have conversed with previously several times) and everyone on the crew!
<<Hiya Kerstin!>>
As usual, I have researched your site and books first to see if I can find this problem and a possible solution, but have not run across anything exactly like it (it seems like a popular chant - I have looked, but I cannot find the exact problem I have).
<<Mmm, indeed...and often there is not an “exact” replica of another’s situation...at least not as they see/understand it. Yet still much useful info to process/help with learning and understanding of the “goings on” within our tanks. And often enough, purposeful research will reveal that what you thought was wrong is not that way at all, but something entirely different...but enough lecture for now [grin]>>
I apologize in advance for the length - but it seems to solve the problems, emails are longer as a good description is provided.
<<Yes>>
I am writing for a friend of mine (honest!)
<<Uh-huh...okay [grin]>>
who also has a 29-gallon Reef tank, but with a hair algae problem that isn't going away. We are trying to figure out how to solve this problem, and so would like to describe the tank and see what inputs you have.
<<I’m happy to proffer my opinion>>
She also has Aiptasia, but she knows what to do to get rid of them; she is working on that slowly, and purchased 2 peppermint shrimp to help.
<<Don’t be too surprised if the shrimp “don’t” help much re the Aiptasia. Better to depend on manual means (injection with lemon juice/Kalkwasser/etc.) of ridding this pest>>
However, the hair algae just isn’t going away...any ideas based on the descriptions below?
<<Let’s see...>>
Fish - In the past 2 months she has had several of her fish die (a yellow tang, a "pajama fish", and a goby), and she has taken the clown (became too territorial and was killing her torch coral) back to the LFS until this problem is resolved.
<<The fish dying are a clue something is not right with the environment/water chemistry...and do be aware, this tank is way too small for ANY Tang species>>
She is down to having a lawnmower blenny (got it to help with the hair algae, based on the LFS recommendation), an urchin,
<<You don’t state the species, but Urchins rarely help with hair algae problems in my experience...and again due to the size of the tank, this animal will likely starve to death>>
a blue starfish,
<<Mmm, a Linckia species I imagine...another “doomed” animal in this, and most all, captive systems. Kerstin...You need to talk to your friend about “researching before buying”...will save her AND her livestock in the long-term>>
2 peppermint shrimp, and a small crew of snails (mostly Astrea, some Nassarius).
Corals - Her corals all seem to be happier since the hair algae problem began - does that indicate there's just too much in the way of nutrients in the water, and that's what everyone is feeding on?
<<Possibly (where’s the water tests?)... Most “corals” do benefit from the presence of some nitrate and phosphate in the water>>
She has polyps (similar in look to brown zooanthids),
<<Can be toxic, especially in small systems such as this. The use of chemical filtration (carbon/Ploy-Filter) is highly recommended. Use of these media can/will also help with the algae problem>>
several burgundy mushrooms,
<<Another very noxious creature>>
a disk coral (Fungia - has almost doubled in size in daytime inflation since the algae problem began), a small organ pipe coral (limping along),
<<Mmm, yes...likely being poisoned by the Zoanthids/Mushrooms>>
a small torch coral (recovering from the clown),
<<This coral will need room/cleared terrain around it...very aggressive>>
an Acropora-style with a crab in it (not doing better or worse), a lovely burgundy sponge,
<<This can be a big problem if it dies...many toxins released. There are some photosynthetic species that can fare well in reef systems, but...>>
a white flower anemone (originally for the clown, although he never lived in it - preferred the torch coral)
<<Not surprising, likely Epicystis crucifer, an Atlantic species...and thus quite foreign to the clownfish...and possibly even a danger re>>
and a lovely feather duster colony (also propagating, spreading to other rocks).
Hardware - She has a Current-USA Orbit light (she replaced her bulbs within the last 3 months, but reduced the light cycle time some),
<<Reducing lighting duration has little effect on hair algae in my opinion...unless reduced to the point it becomes deleterious to the other photosynthetic organisms in the tank. Best to keep the lighting at 10-14 hours per day and use other methods/determine the cause of the algae problem>>
runs a small AquaClear filter on the back for being able to run a small charcoal bag (was being used all the time, currently usage is being reduced),
<<I would step-up the use of chemical filtrants>>
is running two powerheads in the tank for extra circulation, and uses a SeaClone skimmer (she will purchase my AquaC Remora HOT in about 2 weeks when I upgrade my tank).
<<This upgrade may well “make all the difference” here>>
Tank details/what we have done:
1. Tested water sample (which had sat about 2 hours) Thursday night - Nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia were 0,
<<The algae is likely removing these faster than they can be tested>>
water sample temp. was close to 70,
<This last is meaningless since the sample “sat about”>>
pH was (I thought) an amazingly high 8.8
<<Yikes, indeed!>>
(Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit),
<<Hmm...I suggest you retest with a new/different test kit to confirm>>
don't know alkalinity & calcium (didn't think to test for them).
<<Is necessary/all part of the overall picture>>
2. She did one 5-gallon water change Saturday morning (Instant Ocean water in buffered RO/DI water, bubbled 24 hrs. after salt was mixed in).
<<A good start>>
3. As of today (Monday), after running full lights for close to 5 hours, test results were: Specific Gravity ranges from 1.024-1.026,
<<”Range?”...why the fluctuation? This should be more stable over this 5-hour period>>
nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia again 0, temp. runs at 81, pH was a more normal 8.2 (same Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit),
<<Likely inaccurate/old...I would consider a different/better brand (Seachem/Salifert)>>
alkalinity was off the scale (both the Salifert and Red Sea test kits), Phosphate (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit) is 0.5,
<<If accurate, this is much too high (should be 0.02 or less>>
& Calcium was 400 (she says she generally doesn't have to add much in the way of calcium to her tank - stays pretty level). The RO/DI water originally had an alkalinity that was low - we added 1/2 tsp. Seachem Reef Buffer, and brought the alkalinity to a level of about 8.3 dKH. She is not over feeding her corals (no more than 3 feedings per week with a variety alternating between frozen shrimp, some homemade food (based on Eric Borneman's formula), Fiji Gold, and some Kent Marine ZooPlex)
<<I would not use this last product, can be likened to pollution-in-a-bottle...much too easily overused/abused...and of suspect benefit, in my opinion>>
or fish (only the lawnmower blenny, so minimal feedings for it).
<<The Lawnmower Blenny will probably accept little supplemental feeding anyway. But just to note, most all fishes should be fed well at least once a day...just like harming corals by reducing the photoperiod, don’t punish the fishes by reducing/eliminating feedings>>
She previously had a red slime algae problem, but it seems to be gone,
<<Probably just “out-competed” at the moment, may well return once the hair algae starts to wane...but one problem at a time [grin]>>
and she now has the hair algae and Aiptasia.
<<Many hobbyists may not realize, but Aiptasia are wonderful absorption feeders (can prosper quite well in “un-lit” sumps with little to no particulate feedings) and are probably loving the organic load (I suspect) in this tank>>
The lawnmower blenny likes to nip at the hair algae.
<<But is not the cure here>>
Just recently she had 2 strands of what looks like Caulerpa grow - but they seem to have few leaves, where the blenny has nibbled on it.
<<Probably not Caulerpa then (quite noxious to most “grazers”)>>
Tonight we also saw some small leaves of dark purple algae begin to form, as well as four bubbles of bubble algae.
<<She has quite the little “ vegetable garden” going there, doesn’t she...>>
In general the blenny doesn't seem to be making any inroads on the hair algae
<<Indeed... As stated, not a solution/remedy...though this “bio-control” can be helpful once the “cause” of this problem is found and rectified>>
- and she only got this blenny when she developed the algae problem. Our ideas, based on my reading of major amounts of FAQs on your site are:
- We're thinking 5 gallon water changes every 2-3 days for a few weeks. Should that help?
<<Yes, as long as the source water is not the problem. Do test this...perhaps the RO/DI unit is in need of maintenance/parts replacement>>
- I figure the new skimmer won't hurt - having upgraded recently from the SeaClone to the AquaC, I know.
<<Will be a huge benefit...in my estimation>>
- Since adding the buffer to the RO/DI water first and then mixing in Instant Ocean salt results in a high alkalinity level (matches the tank), should we maybe mix the salt in first and then add buffer if it still needed?
<<Not sure I get what you’re trying to say here... If the Alkalinity matches the tank (assuming proper levels) “after” the salt is mixed with the buffered water then this is fine...but...buffering after the salt is mixed is okay too. The important thing is to test/experiment to determine the correct amount of buffer to preclude overdosing and precipitating Earth elements from the mixed solution>>
- Would adding water that is slightly lower in alkalinity help lower the alkalinity in the tank?
<<If this is a problem, yes>>
Or is there another way to lower alkalinity?
<<Water changes are your best method for regaining “balance”>>
- Would high alkalinity cause the hair algae?
<<No...it is thought that keeping Alkalinity and pH at the high end of the scale will actually help with eliminating problem alga>>
- Or do we need to try to lower the phosphates?
<<Most definitely...is a big factor here>>
- Or will they get lower by doing the repeated water changes?
<<Will initially...but you need also to determine/correct the source of the phosphate>>
Thanks again for all your great help. We are clueless at this point, and would love any input you can provide. The hair algae has been a problem for several months now, and she is getting disgusted with her tank for it not wanting to go away - and that would be a shame to have happen.
<<There will not likely be a rapid reversal...this process will require diligence and determination. My recommendations at this point are... Stop the use of any “bottled” foods (e.g. – the Kent product, etc.)... increase the use of carbon and add a small canister filter with an Iron-based Phosphate remover or cut up Poly-Filter pads... if possible, add a small vegetable refugium to compete with the nuisance algae and provide additional water volume (among other benefits)... Maximize the use of that new AquaC skimmer... And check the effluent from the RO/DI unit to make sure it is still doing its job>>
BTW, I am continuously amazed at how many variations on the same theme you get for questions, and how patiently you answer most of them.
<<Mmm, yes...every tank is different...though much of the investigation process and solutions provided re can be applied “across the board”>>
Thanks in advance in case I have missed anything in your pages that addresses this issue.
Kerstin:-)
<<No worries, just keep reading/researching... And let me know if we need to discuss any of this further. Eric Russell>>

Re: High pH And Hair Algae – 11/08/07
Hi Eric!
<<Hey Kerstin!>>
Thanks for the quick reply
<<Quite welcome
...we will work on incorporating your suggestions.
<<I do think they will help>>
I have tried to answer some of the questions - although not necessarily in the order asked...and of course it sometimes prompted more questions (seems to be a never-ending cycle...you learn more, so you get new questions to supplement the new knowledge, and so on).
<<Indeed>>
Re the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit - I had an older test kit (about 2-1/2 yrs. old) and a new one, and she had one in-between those two in age - all three gave us the same values.
<<Still...I would try a different brand/better kits...and seriously consider an electronic meter for measuring pH>>
I am working on getting the Salifert test kits for Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, and Phosphates...we'll see how that helps (should be end of this week/ beginning of next week).
<<Ah...excellent>>
At that point we'll test the 2 sources of RO water she uses again - one is from the LFS (who gets her most of her water), recently also some from me (and I will test it just to make sure it doesn't affect my tank's chemistry as well). Hopefully that's not the root - then again, that might be easier than finding other sources, I have the feeling.
<<Mmm yes, is a long shot admittedly...but still worth checking>>
I had mentioned that she previously had a red slime algae problem - interestingly enough, at the same time I had one (and we didn't share anything from our tanks right before)...so can algae problems be cyclical or weather related?
<<Not so much in an enclosed system...is most assuredly iatrogenic>>
However, I had the AquaC and have my problem almost resolved, while hers became a hair algae problem.
<<Thus the benefit of a “quality” skimmer>>
Now I just need to make sure I don't transfer my slime algae to the new tank (I hope to move everything next week, once my school's Fall Festival is over...I think I will have my life back! – ha-ha I am PTO President, so I don't think that will happen).
<<Ah yes, I served a couple years on the board (the last as President) of my local reef club (currently resisting nominations to do again)...is amazing how time/energy consuming arranging monthly meetings/functions can be at times>>
But once I move my tank's inhabitants, should I run my skimmer with a vinegar-water
solution to clear it out before selling it to her (I have a Tunze 9010 for my new tank)?
<<This should be fine. You could even use a mild bleach solution (a cup of non-deodorized bleach in a gallon of water) to clean the skimmer, and then give it a short soak in a container of fresh water treated with aquarium “chlorine remover”>>
And should she do that with her SeaClone, so I don't get her algae problem in my 29?
<<Can’t hurt>>
(I plan on selling my current 29 as a ready-to-go reef system...just not with the good skimmer on it).
<<I see>>
Re Specific Gravity - I think the swing in measurements is over a course of days –
<<Ah...okay>>
Monday it measured 1.024, which is actually where it usually runs - with a few deviations before adding fresh water of 1.025...interestingly enough, my tank usually stays at 1.026 - can that be because I have more corals than she does?
<<No...you likely have a more regular “top-off” regimen>>
Re When to add the buffer - I basically assume it doesn't matter if we add the buffer before or after we have mixed up and bubbled the fresh saltwater?
<<Not really, in my opinion... And adding “after” if needed, may be the better approach for the uninitiated>>
My RO water runs low on alkalinity and pH,
<<As it should>>
but her current batch of Instant Ocean salt don't require the buffer to be added - they raise both pH and alkalinity to a good point, whereas buffering it first brings the alkalinity to a dKH of 16 or higher (Salifert and Red Sea test kits).
<<Indeed...this is too high>>
So having a high alkalinity and high pH are not all bad - they may help combat the algae problem?
<<Not “high” per se...but rather on the “high end” of the acceptable scale (e.g. – dKH 12, pH 8.4)>>
But will they come back down after the algae is gone,
<<Not as a result of this, no>>
or will we have to work on doing that ourselves?
<<As long as Calcium levels are not “maxed” as well, the readings I have outlined can be maintained indefinitely without harm>>
Or will having the skimmer help bring it down?
<<Not directly>>
Finally, I had a brainstorm this morning.
<<Oh?>>
We had discussed that she needed to add some sand to her DSB again - if it is getting low (close to or below 3 inches for the 29 gallon tank) could that be prompting some of the algae growth (since DSBs function in the NNR process)?
<<If the substrate is too coarse/trapping detritus and/or water flow is deficient...certainly>>
And I would assume that removing the algae off the sand by hand will reduce the sand level even more, so by adding a little bit of sand every few days until the level is higher again, it should help?
<<Yes...about a half-inch or so at a time is fine>>
Well, I have once again been absolutely long-winded - I do apologize (and yes, I talk lots too, so it's not just my writing).
<<Ha! No need to apologize my friend>>
We will try your suggestions - will write back to let you know what's going on, and if we need more help.
<<I look forward to further exchanges>>
Thanks tremendously for all your inputs - always fun chatting with you,
Kerstin:-)
<<Is my pleasure to assist. Eric Russell>>

R2: High pH And Hair Algae – 11/17/07
Hi there again!
<<Hello Kerstin>>
Well, I hope we're making progress on her tank...I want to keep you updated, and I want to ask some questions as well.
<<Cool…okay>>
I think I may have figured out where the phosphates come from - tell me if you think I might be right.
<<Alrighty>>
I have made several batches of coral/reef food, using Eric Bornemann's recipe as a base. Included with the fresh seafood and ground up flake food and other assorted stuff are also frozen Mysis shrimps, daphnia, etc...all aquarium packs.
<<Okay>>
If I am supposed to rinse them before feeding them on an individual cube basis to get rid of the packaged water (I read it's a good source of phosphates), and I did not even thaw them before integrating them into the new mixture, then could that be the source of the phosphates?
<<Is probable, yes>>
Just a thought, because I can't see where else they might come from.
<<Let’s test and see to be sure, shall we? Thaw a chunk of the food preparation in a small container of tank water (just like you do when you feed) and then test that water for Phosphate. If there’s a chance a chance the tank water will skew the test, then test “before and after” adding the food stuff>>
re the new skimmer - she started running my AquaC skimmer –
<<Excellent!>>
collected 1/2 of a cup of "guck" the first night alone...she is absolutely happy that it's pulling this stuff out.
<<Is helping…that is a certainty>>
Between that, having a Poly-Filter pad in her little AquaClear filter, and the fact that she pulled quite a bit of the hair algae wherever she could, we'll see how her tank does...she really appreciates all the suggestions and is happier about her tank already.
<<Very good to know>>
Although, interestingly enough, when she tested her water in the evening after lights had been on all day (has done 3 5-gallon water changes in the last week), her pH is still running 8.8 - but it is staying stable, so is it something to worry about, or will it drop as the skimmer removes stuff from the water (don't know how that would happen)?
<<The skimmer is not going to drop her pH…and yes, this reading if accurate is too high/worrisome. I seem to recall you stated before that you have validated this reading with more than one brand of test kit…if not please do so. Else…it is important to find and remedy the source/reason for this high pH reading (source water is prefiltered, yes?). Do revalidate the salt mix used…and stop adding any buffers if using these. And do make sure there isn’t an unusual item/tank decoration that has been added to the tank that may be leaching/causing this spike in pH>>
Thanks again for all your tremendous help, and we'll let you know what happens.
<<Happy to assist…please do fix/let me know how things progress re the pH issue>>
One positive thing
<<Hey…I counted more than one! [grin]>>
- I gave her a copy of CMA, and am loaning her fish books - she is going to research more on her new tank inhabitants once this problem is solved, since she has already decided to return the lawnmower blenny to the LFS to trade against something else.
<<Very good…and do lead her here/to this site and teach her how to do keyword searches using the Google search tool>>
Thanks, and I hope you're having a lovely weekend,
Kerstin:-)
<<Weekends are “always” good, mate. Eric Russell>>

R3: High pH And Hair Algae – 12/02/07
Eric - Just a short update, and big THANKS for all your help!
<<Hi Kerstin…you’re quite welcome>>
About 2 weeks ago we got together and reworked her LR in her tank - we took out about 6 lbs. worth, replaced it with a few smaller ones from my old 29, and now she has a much more open system with less rock.
<<Excellent>>
Not only did it help make the tank look less crowded, it also should make for better water flow.
<<Indeed>>
Her first Poly-Filter pad turned brown pretty quickly, so she is on the next one - turning colors much more slowly, and the Phosphates seem to have gone undetectable.
<<Very good>>
She is still doing 5 gallon water changes every 4-6 days - planning, in fact, to do a 10 gallon change tonight (missed the last water change earlier in the week due to various activities at school and work). But when she tested her tank this morning after skipping her Calcium additive this week, her Calcium was 320, her Alkalinity right at normal (~8 dKH - down from almost 16!), and her pH still high at 8.8.
<<Mmm, okay…I would expect a better balance here from the frequent partial water changes. The Calcium should be a bit higher and the pH needs to be lower. Do check a batch of freshly mixed saltwater (after aerating for 24 hrs) and see how these values compare. Perhaps a different brand of salt is in order>>
I take it as long as the values stay consistent without swinging radically, this is alright?
<<Stability is desired, and can mitigate out-of-bounds readings to a degree/within reason…but actions should still be taken to bring her water chemistry within prescribed/more acceptable limits>>
Or do you have suggestions of how to raise the pH without negatively impacting the other two?
<<I think you mean “lower” the pH… The water changes should do this…unless there is something you have not mentioned at play here>>
She removed much of the hair algae by hand ~10 days ago, and that seems to have made a radical difference
<<Yes…manual extraction, though tedious, can often foster a decline>>
- so now she is reading (CMA, Tullock's new book, and some other books with fish descriptions) to determine what she would eventually like to get.
<<Cool>>
She had a lawnmower blenny, but she found the urchin eating it one morning - not sure why,
<<Hungry…so was scavenging on the blenny’s already dead carcass>>
but she will most likely return the urchin to the LFS before he starves from lack of algae.
<<Good…this tank is just too small for this critter>>
She wishes she had had a chance to do that with the blenny.
<<Indeed>>
However, she really appreciates all your help - she likes her tank again, and feels that the problems it has had are slowly but surely being conquered/eradicated.
<<Ahh…is redeeming to know>>
So thanks again for all you help!
<<Is truly a pleasure to assist>>
I really enjoy reading your site, and best of all, appreciate that ya'll are putting dates on the FAQs so that it's possible to see how long ago the information was provided.
<<Ah yes! My thoughts as well>>
Thanks for providing so much of your time, and putting up with us who blather along like I do.
<<No worries my friend>>
Hope you're keeping warm, Kerstin:-)
<<Not a problem here at the moment…daytime temps ranging mid-60s to low-70s with 40s at night…not bad at all. Regards, Eric Russell>>

R4: High pH And Hair Algae – 12/14/07
And a cheery Hello to you and the entire Wet Web crew in this Holiday Season
<<Greetings Kerstin!>>
- it's hard to believe it's over halfway through Christmas...and nary a card is written (spending too much time with my fish, according to my husband!).
<<Nevah!>>
Just one more comment...I found the source of the phosphates and even silicates (she and I both have a lovely case of brown diatoms on our sand!).
<<Ah good…finding the problem is half the battle won>>
Hopefully this helps others as well...
Last year we installed a new RO/DI system...the Hi-S version from Kent Marine. As a note to other users as well - remember your filter change schedule!
<<Hee-hee, indeed! Are not “plug-in and forget” units>>
I forgot mine, and didn't taste a difference in the water,
<<Mmm, not a reliable gauge…as you have learned. Better to use a TDS meter…or at the least, a “routine” exchange schedule>>
and so all of a sudden started having the diatoms on the sand. All my other parameters tested normal (Nitrate, Ammonia, Nitrite all 0, pH 8.2, Alk. around 7.9-8 dKH, calcium ~460)
<<I wouldn’t want this to go any/much higher…is good your Alkalinity is at the bottom of the scale re>>
...so I thought I would finally put in a Poly-Filter pad to see if it helps
<<An excellent product>>
...and it immediately started to turn light brown! At this point I researched the filter schedules, and, lo and behold, due to my own forgetfulness, found out that I was being mean to my tank by not doing a filter change.
<<[grin]>>
I should be getting new filters today, and will start doing regular twice-weekly 5-gallon water changes to my 92-gallon;
<<10-gallons weekly will be fine…and less of a disruption/irritation to your tank inhabitants. Do be sure to mix your saltwater up ahead of time and aerate it/give it some time to “mature” before use (minimum 24hrs is okay…72hrs or more is better). Freshly mixed seawater is caustic to marine life…and the chemical processes are still “active” for a while after mixing/dissolving…thus the need for some maturation>>
I am hoping that will reduce/eradicate the diatoms. My friend will also get fresh water to continue doing her water changes (and luckily she's not mad at me for also "giving" her the brown diatoms).
<<Oops…>>
Her tank has radically improved since we started working with it,
<<Excellent…am sure she much appreciates your assistance here>>
and now she is working on determining what fish she would like. Quick comment about trying to catch my 6-line wrasse...I haven't bought a fish trap, but have tried several homemade models. I think my fish thought that was the funniest thing I could do - completely ignored all of them (only used one at a time, but changed sizes and food types over the course of several weeks).
<<Mmm, yes…I have had similar experience with the “traps.” Seems they are best at catching only those fish you do not wish to capture…>>
However, it did calm down his "dominancy" over the Purple Tang, so they get along well now...the wrasse has even stopped harassing the Yellow Watchman Goby (at least when I am looking).
<<The “intrusions” have likely upset this fish’s routine enough/given it other things to focus on for the moment. As the tang grows/matures I would expect the wrasse to become less of a problem anyway…the goby may be another matter>>
And my dog was amazingly jealous over my sitting in front of my tank to catch the wrasse - every time I sat there, he HAD to be petted...too funny, as he is usually not so needy.
<<Ha! Well…between the tank and your dog, your husband must be feeling “really” left-out [grin]>>
Anyway, I wanted to thank you again for all your help.
<<Quite welcome>>
I even found a link on your site to the Tunze forum, which let me fix my skimmer
(9010, after 3 weeks, had still not foamed - simply needed to reconnect the air hose, which had loosened during shipping - the skimmer works beautifully now!).
<<Excellent! Sometimes the simplest of things…...>>
Thank you as usual for the great site - I love all the info you and all your cohorts provide.
Kerstin:-)
<<Is our pleasure. EricR>>