Lighting Question/Reef Lighting/Selection 12/17/09
You guys run a great website that has guided me greatly through the last five years of my reefing hobby.
<Why thank you, Ryan, glad you are learning/enjoying.>
I have never run a tank over 40 gallons in that time. However, I have upgraded to a 165 gallon tank (8' long x 21" wide x 19" deep) with a 60 gallon sump/refugium.
<A great size.>
I want to keep SPS, LPS, Softies, Zoos, and most importantly Deresa, Maxima, and Crocea clams (I wish to have the clams in the substrate). My question is about lighting. I am debating between having 4x175 watt MH with 2x96 pc actinic, 3x175 MH with 2x96 watt pc actinic, 3 x 250 watt MH with 2 x 96 watt pc actinic, or a 250 watt MH on one side above the SPS and clams and 2 x 175 watt MH and 2 x 96 on the other side above the LPS and
softies. Which one of these setups (or another setup that you would recommend) would be best for the wide range of species that I want to keep? And, what Kelvin do you recommend (mostly thinking of the clams)?
<I would go with your first choice, 4x175 watt MH with 2x96 PC actinic, and I would use 10K lamps.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re Lighting Question/Reef Lighting/Selection 12/17/09
Sorry about writing two emails, but after sending the last one I thought about it and realized that I should elaborate more on the Kelvin question.
What I meant to say is that I would prefer to use 14k (because I assume that that Kelvin will show the color in the clams and corals better). So, will the coral and clams be healthy with the 14k or do I really need to go with 10k?
<I would go with the 10K lamps, less intensity is wasted and you should get a good amount of color with the two actinics providing they are staggered.>
Thank you and sorry for the two separate emails,
<Not a problem, and you're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ryan Lundstrom

Re Lighting Question/Reef Lighting/Selection 12/17/09
Thank you very much. I am very impressed with the quickness of your replies. I will do what you recommended.
<Do keep in mind that this is my opinion, other peoples opinions can be different. I just feel that the 10K lamps are a better light source for SPS and clams, and do not waste intensity. I have switched over to Ice Cap 10K lamps some time ago and I did see an improvement in my SPS growth. You may be interested to read part of an email I received from Steven Pro, VP of sales at Ice Cap. "Although I will say that the amount of blue in a 10,000 K lamp is something that is not universally well understood. When looking at the spectral chart of our 10,000 K versus 14,000 K versus 20,000 K lamps (or that of other respected companies such as Ushio for example), there is
no more blue in the 20,000 K lamps. In fact, all three color temperatures have the exact same amount of blue in them. The way manufacturers get a lamp that appears more blue is not to add more blue to the 20,000 K lamp, but to remove the green, red, and yellow from the lamp." With that said, it is the green, red, and yellow that our shallow water corals and clams benefit more by than the blue.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ryan Lundstrom

Saltwater Transfer and Reef Lighting – 11/27/09
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I enjoy all that your website has to offer and have read many helpful articles. Fantastic website!
<<Thank you… We are happy to know you find the collective efforts here of benefit>>
But, after hours of research I am coming up short on a few questions.
<<Okay>>
Hope you can help.
<<I have my moments [grin]>>
I've got a question on saltwater transfer pumps.
<<Ahh…>>
I am trying to transfer saltwater from my Brute trash can in the basement to my 90 gallon display tank.
<<I see>>
I have 12 ft of vertical and 15ft of horizontal piping all in 3/4'' ID vinyl tubing.
<<Mmm… The diameter used, and tendency of this material to “collapse” just from the weight of gravity, makes your project more difficult. I suggest re-plumbing with PVC pipe (the “flexible variety is fine if you wish, as it will not collapse like the vinyl tubing) with an inside diameter of 1”, preferably>>
I tried my Rio 3100 submersible pump which will get it upstairs but will only trickle into my sump.
<<Indeed… These pumps don’t handle head-pressure well at all>>
Are there any pumps or methods that you could recommend to get my pre-made water up to my tank so I don’t have to carry buckets?
<<Yep… I use two very similar systems to transport both pre-made saltwater to my display, as well as filtered freshwater to my top-off reservoir. I have a vertical lift of about 10’ with a horizontal run of about 25’ and use Mag-Drive 18 submersible pumps plumbed to 1” flexible PVC. This make/size pump works very well for me and one would probably serve your situation too, especially if you upgrade the plumbing. I would also very strongly suggest you install a contact-switch to operate the pump at the point where the water terminates. This is a simple spring-loaded push-button switch that must be “pressed and held” to operate the pump. This is a bit of extra electrical work (extending and routing the pump cord along the plumbing route), but doing so is the absolute best way to NOT flood your floor with this “automated” water transport system. Installing such a switch means you have to stand and watch the vessel/tank fill while pressing the button and activating the pump. Once the desired amount of water is transferred, you release the button and the pumps “stops.” This also happens should the phone ring, someone knocks at the door, or some other distraction occurs, and you walk away…get the picture?>>
Also while I'm asking, I have a problem with lighting. My tank is made out of acrylic and the tank hood measures 47 1/2'' wide which makes finding a suitable light to fit very difficult. To make matters worse my hood is about 6"deep.
<<Mmm, yes…not easy to work with aside from maybe a DIY T-5 system>>
I like the looks of my oak top and would like to keep it in addition to reef lighting. I am currently using a cheap 2 lamp 36" Coralife fixture until I find an upgrade. I would like to try fluorescent lighting due to heat and space confinements.
<<Fluorescents get hot too, especially high-output units…you will still need adequate ventilation>>
I am very new to reef keeping and would be happy to have an anemone for my clowns as well as some very beginner corals.
<<Do research WWM re our cautions and reservations with such systems (water quality issues, mixing sessile and motile inverts, etc.)>>
The tank measurements are 48"x18"x24" but like I said the hood only allows a 47 1/2" work space.
Any Info would be a huge help.
<<Do check out online the available “retro-fit” T-5 HO lighting gear available. You should be able to find something you can “make fit”>>
Thanks in advance,
Doug
<<Happy to share… Eric Russell>>

Re: Saltwater Transfer and Reef Lighting – 12/04/09
Eric,
<<Doug!>>
Thanks for all the helpful info.
<<Quite welcome>>
I'm taking your advice on the Mag 18 pump, piping, and switching.
<<Excellent… You will find the Mag-Drive pump to be a big improvement over the Rio unit>>
I’m glad you shared your experience on how to transfer saltwater.
<<Was my pleasure>>
I'm sure it will prove to be a real money/time saver.
<<Ah yes! I do 50g water changes at a time and have even semi-automated draining of the display (I turn a valve and the water drains to the sewer system)…hauling buckets to drain and refill was not a long-term option [grin]>>
As far as the lighting is concerned, I think I will try a 36" 6-lamp T5 HO fixture made by Current, the Nova Extreme Pro.
<<Okay…should serve fine>>
I have an open back on my aquarium top combined with the fans on the fixture and maybe some additional fans should keep it cool enough (I hope).
<<Indeed>>
I will do more research on your site before putting in corals.
<<Very good>>
Once again, thanks for taking time to assist me in my reef adventures.
Doug
<<Any time my friend… Eric Russell>>

Reef Lighting 10/15/09
Hello.
<He Terrence>
I need help in regards to lighting a SPS tank. I am setting up a standard 75 gallon tank, 48x18x20. I have a 150 watt HQI setup from a previous tank that I took down when I moved. I am trying to figure out if I should buy another one of these fixtures and run 2, 150 watt or upgrade to two 250 watt systems. I would like to be able to have SPS close to the bottom and also plan to have a clam or two.
<Two 150 watt HQI lamps should give you enough light providing you go with 10K lamps. The 10K lamps will give you more PAR value than bluer lamps and are better appreciated by SPS corals and clams.>
Thanks in advance,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Terrence

Basic Reef Lighting/Reef Lighting 9/18/09
Dear Crew,
<Vlad>
I don't know what I would do without your wonderful website and fast responses.
I have 55g with LS, LR, and skimmer. I would like to make it a reef system.
I can't afford to buy a $500+ system plus electric bills. So the few questions are:
Will black or chrome fluorescent shop light from Lowes with two GE Sunshine(32W 2800 Lumens, CRI 86, 5000K each) bulbs allow me to keep soft, hard corals and clams?
<No.>
If not, with the setup above can I keep any of the above mentioned species?
<Nope.>
What do I need to add to the system above (of course at reasonable price) in order to keep these species?
<You would be much better off looking for a fixture that uses T5 lamps.
They have close to twice the intensity as T12's and are much more energy efficient.
I do suggest reading here and linked files above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Can I place the shop light directly on top of open aquarium or perhaps on top eggcrate?
<If a glass top is incorporated into the system, yes. Definitely not recommended placing over open water.>
Thank you for your answers.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Lighting A Frag Tank/Reef Lighting 9/3/09
Greetings WWM,
<Jimmie>
I'm in the process of setting up a 4' x 2' x 12" frag tank. It will be primarily SPS, I was thinking of buying a friends old Sunlight Supply Maristar metal halide/T5 fixture. My only concern is that it is a magnetic ballast which can be rather heavy and loud.
<Mmm, the Maristar fixtures come with dual electronic ballasts. Your friend's fixture must be an old one. All ballasts operate on the magnetic principle, the electronic ballasts incorporate special circuitry to electronically control power to the lamps which makes them more efficient.>
I've also heard they can interfere with radio frequencies if not properly shielded.
<Nonsense. I can set my battery operated radio on top of my non-electronic MH ballast with no RFI noted.>
Another fixture I'm intrigued by is the Aquatic Life HID/T5 fixture. I understand the "spotlight" reflectors are popular in Asia and Europe.
I'm concerned with the lack of fans or any par tests. Have you any experience with these fixtures ?
<This fixture's internal electronic ballasts work in conjunction with a special aluminum housing to help dissipate heat away from the fixture without the use of fans, and, this fixture is not designed to be enclosed. As far as my experience with them, I have none. Would be better to post this question on one of the reef forums where you will get feedback from actual users of this fixture.
James (Salty Dog)><<Well done James. B>>

Lighting/Reef Lighting 6/28/09
Hey Crew,
<Hey Carter>
Once again, thanks for the truly amazing and helpful job you do.
<You're welcome.>
I'm searching for a little guidance here. Any words of wisdom would be very much appreciated.
I've had a 26 gallon FOWLR for a while now, and decided I wanted to upgrade to a larger reef tank. So, I went out and purchased a 55 gallon tank and a set of Nova Extreme Pro 4x54 watt HO T5 lights.
Long story short, the tank wasn't even through cycling yet and it started leaking (from the bottom where I couldn't get to it). So, I returned the tank and got a nicer brand. For just a little more money, I ended up with a 75 gallon tank.
It didn't cross my mind until I got home that lighting was likely going to be an issue for me now.
<Because of increased depth?>
That's where my question comes in...
Would Zoos/Star Polyps/Mushrooms/Leathers do ok under 2.88 watts per gallon of T5 HO with individual reflectors?
<Should be fine here. Compared to standard fluorescent light, you are likely closer to 4 watts
per gallon.>
What about a frogspawn or torch? I do have a set of 2x65 PCs that I could put on there too, but that would look kinda dumpy, and I'd have to get new bulbs for it.
<Frogspawn and Torch Corals require medium to high light intensity.
Keeping these corals at the upper level of the tank should give them the light the require. Keep in mind that these Euphyllia species are very aggressive as to allelopathy.
Do read here
for more info in these corals.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caryophyllids.htm>
Anyway, any input would be greatly appreciated.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Carter

Lighting, Reef 6/25/09
Hi WWM Crew!
<Hello Dan.>
So, I've just set up my 135-gallon tank. I've got the rock and substrate in there, got the skimmer all set... Now I'm working on lighting.
I have a closed 6-foot long hood that has this pesky support brace in the center that would prevent me from putting a full-length light. Thus I have a 36-inch area on each side to work with. I would like to keep fish,
anemones, and corals.
What would you use? I was thinking of two 380-watt fixtures (mixed metal halide/power compact) -- one on each side.
<This can work, it will leave some shadows/dark spots in the tank though (some like that look).>
Would you suggest something different?
<I have installed lighting for a few of these tanks over the years, I would go with T5s on a tank configured like this myself. You will save money on powering the lights, cooling and get an even spread of light throughout the tank. And you can keep anything with these you can with MH!>
Thanks
Dan
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Lighting, Reef 6/25/09
Thanks!
<Happy to assist.>
How much total T5 output would you use?
<I would personally shoot for 400 watts or so for a "keep what, where you want" type of system.>
Do you have a couple favorite brands?
<Not really...kind of a controversial subject, big reflectors vs. individual reflectors. My take and end experience is the light ends up reflected down for the most part anyhow. If you have a canopy do look into the "retrofit" types of kits. These can be had for about half the price.>
Dan
<Scott V.>

Lighting set up   6/4/09
Dear Crew,
<Hi there Eric>
Thanks for all the info so far, site is great as always! Just a quick question, I picked up a 48 inch light fixture from Sfiligoi (Infinity XR4, got it second hand... great deal!), and I was just wondering what kind of
tank it would work to light. It has 2 x 250W metal halides (10,000 or 14,000K) and 4 T5 lights, at 54W each. I've always wanted to do a bowfront tank, I was just wondering if this would be sufficient lighting to light up say a 175 Gal bowfront (72" wide), with the hope of doing SPS and clams?
<Mmm, yes.... such an arrangement of lighting and lamp types could work on up to a six foot wide, two foot deep body of water... for the types of animals described>
Or would it not be wide enough?
<I think it would be wide enough... and actually rather attractive... perhaps mounted a bit off-center, the more "light loving/needing" organisms placed more directly underneath the MH areas>
Would I have to stick to tanks 48" wide?
<Mmm, wouldn't have to stick thus>
Thanks a lot!
Eric
<Welcome in kind/sufficiency. Bob Fenner>

T5 Compaq combo? 5/5/09
Reef Lighting
Hello Crew,
<Hello William>
I'm completely confused by the mixture of info and lack of numbers to judge by when dealing with light bulb types, and I could use your help (and please correct me if I list something as a fact that is actually wrong).
<OK>
I have a 72 gal bowfront tank, which is 48" long by 13" deep by 24" tall.
I also have the Coralife (Oceanic) 48 " deluxe light with Compact Fluorescents. It comes with 2- 24", 10k, 65 watt bulbs and 2-24" actinics (which I assume are 65watt as well), for a total of 230 watts of lighting.
I've been told this isn't enough for sps.
<Would be borderline for most light loving SPS corals, but there are a few species this lighting could support. Most etailers will list light requirements for species of corals they sell. In your case, based on the depth of your tank, corals requiring "moderate" light should survive in your system.>
I've taken LUX readings with the CF (don't have a par meter yet). Just below the water surface it's 5800 LUX , and my sandbed is at 1300 LUX. I converted LUX to PAR (but I haven't found any listing for the compact florescent coefficient to use so this is a guess) and get something like 116 at top and 26 at the bottom.
<Photosynthetically Active Radiation, often abbreviated PAR, designates the spectral range of solar light from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis.
This spectral region corresponds more or less with the range of light visible to the human eye. Since we use lamps of the proper Kelvin temperature, I would be more interested in LUX values rather than PAR values for our purposes. I might add not to confuse lumens with Lux. Lumens is the total amount of light that a lamp is capable of generating, usually available on either the lighting package or from the manufacturer's data sheets. There are two values usually quoted for fluorescent tubes: initial lumens and design lumens. Initial lumens describe how much light it produces when first turned on. Design lumens describe how much light it will produce for a much longer term. After an initial 20 percent drop in brightness, the light output will slowly decrease over the lifetime of the tube. Lux is a unit of measure equal to lumens per square meter or, a measure of the actual intensity of the light falling over a specified area.
Because Lux depends on how the light gets from the bulb to the area, it can not be specified by the manufacturer, but must be measured by the aquarist.>
I need to bump my lighting in the tank. I want to add a single strip T5 HO fixture. This housing will be 3 inches wide, which is all the real estate I have left to sit a light on top of the tank. I estimate this new light will cost me around $140.
So here's the problem.
I can't figure how much more PAR this will add to the tank, and therefore whether it's worth it. I don't want to waste money by adding a light that really won't be felt, but I don't have the ready cash available to buy a whole new lighting system. I don't understand how to judge watts to PAR <Watts has nothing to do with PAR. The watt is used to specify the rate at which electrical energy is dissipated, or the rate at which electromagnetic energy is radiated, absorbed, or dissipated.>
between Compaq's and T5s and MH. Any help?
<If keeping SPS corals is your goal, I would wait till you have enough cash to replace the unit with a twin 150 watt HQI lighting system. Adding an additional T5 lamp for 140 bucks would not be a good investment.>
From what I've read, the new T5 HO's are just as good as MH's these days.
Is this true?
<Yes and no, will depend on the depth of tank and number of lamps used. In shallow tanks such as yours, the T5 HO is a good way to go. I personally like the look of metal halide lighting.>
If so, how do you judge how many bulbs you need? As I stated my tank is 48" long, 24" tall and 13" deep.
And lastly how do Compaq's compare to T5 HOs straight up?
<The T5's, in my opinion produce a larger light distribution pattern and produce more lumens watt for watt.>
Are 2, 24" 65watt 10k Compaq's equal to 1-48" T5 HO?
<No, we are comparing 130 watts to 54 watts.>
Are the CFs 1/2 as strong as the T5 HO?
<I don't believe to that margin, again, watt for watt.>
Are compacts equal to the older T5s?
<Likely close, but the T5's have an edge on efficiency.>
These are the kind of facts I could use right now.
<I suggest you read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi :)Hope all is well with you folks :))
<Still kickin'>
My tank specs
52"x30"x18" (LxHxW)
Substrate is 4"-5" DSB so the actual depth of the tank would be 23"-24".
Further, the water column is only 21" since the top 3" is occupied by the brace.
Photosynthetic life I look to sustain (some already existing in the tank)
* Leather coral
* Zoanthids
* Mushrooms
* Palythoa
* Moon/Pineapple coral
* Xenia
* Bubble coral
* Turbinaria
* Fungia (disc corals)
* Montipora
T5 seems to be quiet popular with reefers.
I was wondering if replacing my current 2x150W MH with 4x54W T5 is a good idea.
<I would not, you are only reducing the wattage by 84 watts, and trading off excellent
lighting for corals/clams and just to save a few watts, isn't worth the change, yet alone the cost of
the new lighting at $350.00 a pop plus shipping. Would be a long time before you would recover the
savings on your utility bill to make up the cost of the new lighting.>
The fixture I had in mind is the Giesemann Razor.
http://www.reefdepot.com.sg/AddProduct.asp?ProdID=1070
I would be using 2 of these and a line of high power LEDs (DIY) in between both Razor units to get a bit of shimmer lines :)
I need to change my existing light setup due to HEAT. Room reads 40 degrees
C with existing 2 MH and the chiller.
This is causing a vicious circle where the chiller runs more to reduce the temperature and throws more heat in the air and back again. All this totals to higher electricity bills.
<Are you running cooling fans in your hood? Is necessary and will help much in keeping the tank
temperature down and reducing cycling of the chiller along with adding more life to the lamps.>
The whole point of thinking of T5 was because it will not generate heat more than standard NO tubes. Am I correct in this assumption or am I way off?
<Watts produce heat, no other way to look at it. The T5 platform just provides more
lumens per watt, but they are still throwing off 54 watts of heat per lamp.>
I plan to screw the Razors to the top of my hood and put regular 8mm glass below them.
The distance between the bulbs and the 8mm glass would be half an inch.
The glass would be left open in the ends (short sides) to allow airflow.
Each of the Razor units would have independent 8mm glass panes below so I can service them independently.
End result, the bulbs would be 4"-5" above the water column. Would this be ok considering the above livestock?
<It likely would be fine. The most light loving corals may have to be placed at the mid level of the tank.>
Do I really need to have cooling fans with the Razor units (since they are in a closed hood)?
If I need cooling fans, which option would you suggest?
* 6 CPU fans above
* 4 CPU fans above pulling OUT air and 2 CPU fans (one on either side)
PUSHING in air.
* 2 extractor fans "http://www.cataindia.com/Fan-X-Mart-Matic.php"
model X-MART MATIC 10. I would hook these up to a thermostat so they would run only when the temperature would get to 40 degrees C.
These are high powered ones that are rated [ by the company :) ] each to ventilate a 10x10 room.
The fans would be mounted on top of the hood in the middle such that they pull air from the enclosed tubes which would get air flowing through the open side.
Please can you have a look and let me know what you think.
<Ah, this tells me you are running no cooling fans, not good, and is not helping your problem. If it were me, I'd go with two Ice Cap fans and mount so the air is blowing in, providing your canopy has an open back, and most do. The Ice Cap fans come with a temperature sensor that regulates the speed of the fan in proportion to the heat it senses. Use them myself and they are virtually silent. See here.
http://www.icecapinc.com/01/fans.htm
As to your lighting idea, I think your money would be better spent investing in two Ice Cap Electronic Ballasts, and along with the fans, would be much less than the cost of the T5 system you are contemplating, and should save you some money on your utility bill. The maximum current required for this ballast to drive a 175 watt MH lamp is 1.56 amps. They will also extend your lamp life, and the lamps tend to run a little cooler with electronic ballasts. The ballast can be found at the above link.>
Cheers
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

Re T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi James
Thanks for the pronto response :)
<You're welcome.>
I am running two 6 inch exhaust fans in the current setup.
They are both pulling air out.
The hood is not open from behind.
<Are you also drawing air in from the sides of the hood? You need to be able to draw air into the hood while exhausting warm air out. Simply said, the air in
the hood needs to be exchanged.>
The problem is where I live!!
The ambient temperature is 41 degrees C in the day and 35 at night.
This is summer so will drop in 2 months but only by 5 degrees respectively.
<Where do you live, in Arizona or the Gobi Desert.>
When the MH are on they heat the water and the chiller needs to cool the water and thus adds to the heat.
<I do understand.>
One can't even remain in the room to enjoy the tank :(
<Unless one wants a sauna bath.>
That is the reason why I wanted to get out of MH.
Are you saying T5 will be no different?
<Oh, there will be some difference, but I'm thinking not enough to warrant the expense. Have you considered an energy efficient air conditioner for that room?
Even keeping at 32C would be much better than 40C.>
At present I have the MH 3-4 inches above water level in a wooden canopy/ tank cover.
There are 2 exhaust fans 6" each running when the MH come on.
They are attached near the MH and the canopy top is cut to fit them.
Basically, the hole is sized to slip the fans through and they vent the air pulled.
Standard setup.
My question is, will any kind of ventilation to push air out of the room help since the ambient temperature is so high ?
<Exhausting the air to the outside is an idea running through my mind, but I think it might be difficult to make it a decent looking set-up unless aesthetics are not a problem in this room. I'm thinking along the lines of a clothes dryer set-up. I guess if you flex hosed it from the back of the canopy down and to the outside would be a fairly clean looking install.>
Please help. I can buy one light setup and want it to work.
Staying away from clams or acropora is not a problem.
Just need a solution for the heat.
<The T5 system will help, but I'm wondering how much of an effect losing +/- 90 watts would be. I'm hoping my mentor/protégé will chime in here as I am not comfortable telling someone to go out and spend near $800.00 on lighting without being sure this is going to be a solution or even a drastic
improvement to your heat problem. The least expensive fix would be venting the warm air to the outside. That I feel would help you very much.>
Cheers
<And to you my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith 

Re T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi
Sorry I missed one more question
Why do people say T5 runs cool??
<Maybe they mean the term like LL Cool J:)
Likely because it does put out more light per watt than NO/HO or VHO lamps.
I'm going to contact Steven Pro at Ice Cap lighting. A while back I was attending a Marine Conference in Detroit and was talking to Steve about the T5 system and he did make a comparison as to how many T5 lamps would be needed to obtain the same light output as a 175MH, but do you think I can remember, nope. I will send this along to him and get his input.
Wait a minute, would be much better turn around time if you did this.
Contact Steve here.
stevenpro@icecapinc.com>
Cheers
<Ditto my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith 

Re T5 or MH 4/5/09
Reef Lighting
Hi James
<Hello Ranjith>
The current MH needs to be properly setup anyways, as I have to buy the pendants and change my copper ballasts anyways.
<OK>
The bulbs I use are 20 dollar bulbs I found at the hardware store (lucky find) they don't last more than 8 to 9 months.
Thus I don't mind spending a bit (500 dollars max) now.
However, want to spend it on the RIGHT hardware :)
Yes I plan the exhaust fan approach.
Nothing cleverly DIY but getting the electrical guys to cut my window a bit and setup the exhaust.
However, will this really help is what I wonder.
<It will help in keeping the tank temperature down, but obviously, your chiller is still going to be needed.>
Reason is that due to a heat wave, the temperature outside the house is 40+.
<Yikes, James, make a note never to visit Ranjith unless he has plenty of ice cold beer..>
So whatever air comes in will be not much cooler than that being vented.
<Bingo, but the hot air in the hood will always be vented out thus helping to keep the tank temperature down and thereby keeping the chiller from cycling as often as it does now.>
As an option, I am looking at LED lights. I came across a LED torch that runs off three 1.5v batteries. This has an amazing throw of 20 to 40 feet. Basically able to have a clear spot on the next building wall 30 feet away.
I think the lenses they use are the key.
<Am thinking so. I use LED flashlights and am amazed at the intensity they produce.>
Am I being dumb here?
<Don't know yet.>
They retail for half a dollar a piece.
I tested this on my Zoanthids and saw 70% polyp extension as I would with my MH.
If I got enough (100) of them wired close together AND supplemented with one razor unit, do you think I would even come out even ?
<Bottom line is knowing what the Kelvin temperature of the LED's are along with lumens intensity measured at your water depth.>
That way I need to spend 50 dollars for the LED light and 200 dollars for the razor.
I asked one electrician to wire a sample of small size to test it.
What experiment would you suggest to verify the effectiveness of this?
<If the Kelvin temperature was proper...between 6500 and 20,000, the next step would be to find an electrician with a LUX meter with a waterproof sensor to measure the light intensity of this rig, at the bottom of the aquarium. Even if it is small in size, placing the sensor directly under it would give you some idea whether this would even be feasible.
PFO Solaris markets LED fixtures designed for reef aquariums that are powered by LED lights .
They have been getting good reviews lately, but are rather expensive. I'm thinking they are in demand for people in climates like yours, as two sites I visited were out of stock or backordered on these fixtures. Your last option would be to have a fish only system with non light loving invertebrates, and go with using the DIY LED's.
I cannot offer you any more options. Based on your climate, there will be an expense keeping the temperature down, now it's time for you to choose the route you want to go. You may want to read a review of the Solaris system here.
http://www.miniaturereef.com/Solaris%20H4.html>
Cheers
<Ditto my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

"Moderate" lighting??? Also, an Anthias question for you... – 03/27/09
Hey there, Crew!
<<Hiya Crystal!>>
So I've driven myself crazy with reading through the lighting FAQs and the low-moderate light corals FAQs.
<<Have you now>>
I am still doubting myself that I have the "right" amount of light that I need.
<<Oh?>>
I have a 75 gallon Tenecor with approximately (guessing) 100 lbs. of live rock, live sand, skimmer in live rock filled sump, yadda, yadda, yadda. It's been up and running for five years with minimal stocking (have a love for tiny fish like gobies and blennies) so it's all sorts of stable and a very happy place to be a fish.
<<Cool>>
Here's the lighting question that I'd like an answer to -- even if it's only a personal opinion with no specifics (as I've learned that most "facts" of this addictive hobby are):
<<Indeed>>
One 96W Actinic PC
One 96W 50/50 PC
One 96W 10K PC....all over a 20" tall tank.....would you call this "low" or "moderate" lighting?
<<Hmm… Considering that two-thirds of the bulbs are Actinic and 50/50, I think this is in the bottom-half of the “moderate” scale (make sense?) and likely ideal for many of the Corallimorpharians and other organisms with similar lighting requirements>>
As in I can feel comfy making a home for mushrooms (especially Ricordea), zoos, and MAYBE even some LPS's that state "moderate" as the lighting needs?
<<Ah, yes… Corallimorphs (as stated) and Zoanthids (though some Ricordea and Zoanthid species also do well/color up nicely under more intense lighting) should do well…and for suitable “LPS” specimens I would look to the genus Plerogyra (Bubble Corals) and some of the “Red Colored” open brain species (red pigmented specimens seem to do better/have lower light requirements than green pigmented specimens)>>
Now for the Anthias question. Since my love of gobies and blennies and a Jawfish, oh my, has left me with a tank that does not have a whole lot of action from across the room.
<<Mmm, indeed… Sounds like a tank that spends most of its time watching “you” [grin]>>
I've had my eye on adding an Anthias. GORGEOUS!
<<Agreed, though these fishes pose certain obstacles. Many species are difficult to feed, most all are easily intimidated by other fish, some species “just don’t do well” in captivity…and…being “haremic” in nature, most species require others of their kind for their long-term physical and psychological wellbeing…which makes the size of your tank a limiting factor here as well>>
Understand that they can be shy at first but eventually will swim around once they are comfy.
<<This is not a certainty…depending much on species selection and environment>>
And I think the fish I have are lovers, not fighters.
<<Many are relatively peaceful toward other fishes…but not when it comes to conspecifics. These fishes all utilize aggression to maintain their sense of “order” among the social group>>
The particular Anthias I'm interested in and can't seem to find all that much info/opinions about is the Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias Ignitus) or Flame Anthias.
<<Mmm, yes…has not been often seen in the West I think (and thus not documented), though it seems to be turning up more lately>>
Both the male and the female are awesome in coloring and I'd only be looking to get a bachelor or bachelorette. What, if any, opinions do you personally have about this fish?
<<From the little I have read/know, it seems this Anthiine species “may” be on par with Pseudanthias bartlettorum (Bartlett’s Anthias…which by the way, would make for a good alternative species here) re hardiness, ease of feeding, suitability to captive care… I also think this fish will fare much better in a group than as a single specimen. Do consider a trio (male and two females)…though if your tank is as lightly stocked as it sounds, four females and one male of this small Anthiine species might prove to be a better numbers>>
Hardy, shy, easy to feed, likes long walks on the beach and getting caught in the rain -- oops, not that one.
<<Hee-hee!>>
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
<<You have' em>>
As always, thanks so much for any and all anecdotes and I look forward to hearing from you...
-Crystal
<<A pleasure to share… Eric Russell>>

Opinions on lighting. Reef, t-5 lamp sel., colour   02/23/2009
Hi crew,
<Hi Marc, Mich with you tonight.>
Looking for a quick second opinion. I have a 75 gallon tank with LPSs and assorted soft coral.
<Ahh! Sounds nice! I like seeing tanks that aren't dominated by SPS's.>
I have 220 watts of t-5 lighting, right now I have one 10k, two 18k and one 6500 bulb. I'm looking at changing the bulbs, do you think the combination I have now, or 3 6500 and one actinic bulb would have more useful light for
my corals?
<I would not go with 3 6500 unless you are planning on doing a planted marine tank.>
Or the same,
<The same is fine, but if it was mine, I would go with at least 2 and perhaps 3 of the 10k. The lighting is more full spectrum and you will get better growth on your corals. I would not do the 6500 unless you have an interest in growing sea grasses or ornamental algae, and if you do, by all means go for it!>
just preference?
<Of course your own personal aesthetic plays a part as well. But I say more 10k!>
Thanks again,
<Welcome!>
Marc
<Mich>

Reef Lighting, incl. fluor. lamp sel.  2/19/09
Dear WWM Crew,
<Rusty>
I having trouble determining if the fixture I have will work for my reef tank. I plan to get a 6'x2'x2' 180 gal aquarium that I will be making into a reef tank containing moderate light corals. The light fixture I have is a 72" T-5 HO fixture with 8x80watt bulbs.
The bulbs are the Giesemann brand and I have four blue actinic and four 50/50 daylight bulbs. I recently bought a LUX meter to test the intensity of my lamp. I placed the meter on the floor and held my lamp 2 ft. above the sensor and I only got a rating of 3,200 LUX. I fear this may be too low since natural sunlight produces about 10,000 to 20,000 LUX and even the low to moderate light corals have a saturation rate of 5,000 to 6,000 LUX.
Are there any other 60" T-5 bulbs that have a higher output than the brand I mentioned.
<Not that I'm aware of, but your lamp configuration is what is giving you low LUX values, four actinics and four 50/50's aren't going to do it. You can greatly increase the LUX value by going with 10K 80 watt lamps. If it were me, I'd go with seven 10K's and one actinic.>
I know this sounds like a stupid question, but do VHO bulbs have a much higher output than T-5 bulbs in terms of intensity?
<T5's boast the highest lumens per watt output of any fluorescent lamp on the market. Keep in mind though,
"per watt". Six foot VHO lamps are 160 watts versus the 80 watt T5 lamp.
Your fixture would be the equivalent of a four lamp VHO fixture in terms of intensity with all lamps being equal in Kelvin temperature.>
Would I need a chiller if I use VHO's
<Would depend on where you live, the temperature you maintain in your home, central air, etc.>
or could I just turn my heater very low?
<How would you maintain water temperature when the lamps are off during the nighttime hours?
For keeping moderate light loving corals, the eight lamp fixture you have is fine. You just need to reconfigure the lamps.
James (Salty Dog)> <<In other words... heaters are thermostatic... they won't run if the water is warmer than what they're set at. RMF>>

Re: Reef Lighting 2/20/09
The only T-5 bulbs that I can find in a 60" are 60% actinic/40% white, 11,000K bulbs, and 6,000K sun bulbs, will these work if I do a 7 of these to one actinic configuration?
<Sure, go with the 11K lamps. James (Salty Dog)>

Lighting For My Zero Edge Aquarium 2/18/09
Reef Lighting
I've been working on my Zero Edge aquarium for over a year. The cabinet arrived last week, so now I need advice
on lighting.
<Is ironic, as I've been looking at their products on the web just minutes ago. Look pretty pricey but it appears the
quality is there.>
The size of the tank is 36" x 29" x 13.25" in depth. I am looking for a sleek looking light. I have been studying
the Elos Planet II. I have been testing lights and it seems that a 24 inch metal halide pendant with T5 gives me the
coverage. A 36" seems to light up my entire living room.!
<Is there one lamp in the pendant?>
I will have both soft and hard corals. With the tank being 13.25 inches in depth, will a 150w 14k pendant be enough?
<OK, one lamp.>
Someone suggested a 250w 14k, but would that be too much with the tank being shallow? I will be hanging the light from a bracket attached to the cabinet. Is 8-10 inches above the water be high enough?
<Geez Paul, if it were me, I'd go with the 250 or the aforementioned Elos Planet II. Tridacnids and SPS will love it, and it will not be overkill. I happened to come across a chap who has an Elos Planet II for sale for $800.00 on one of the forums. Might want to take a look here. Seems like a good buy versus a new one at 1300.00.
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/drygoods-sale-trade/42908-elos-planet-ii-sale.html >
Thank you,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Paul

Re: Lighting For My Zero Edge Aquarium    2/20/09
Reef Lighting
Thank you crew (James) for your information, I still have a few questions.
<You're welcome.>
Since it has taken me over a year for my decision making on the tank and cabinet, I want to make sure the lighting is correct.
<Understood.>
I purchased a 36" Aquaticlife 1x150 14kHID with 3X39 watt 420/460 nm T5 HO light fixture. When I hung the fixture from the brackets, it took away from the look of the overall tank. It was not sleek enough. I hung it 6 inches
from the top of the tank. When I turned it on the wash from the lighting lit up the entire room.
<Difficult to avoid with that type of set up.>
The tank is located in the living/family room. I experimented with the light and cut 4 pieces of black cardboard and covered the ends of the T5's which made it into a 24" light. The wash was so much less.
If I go with the Planet II 24" 250w 14k with the T5's, will the 250w make it too bright? Is there a big difference
between a 150w and 250w 14k light in brightness?
<Yes, a 100 watt difference. Is this fixture available with just the 250 watt halide?>
Because of the tank being only 13.5 inches deep, I will have a 1-2 inch sand depth. With 11.5 inches starting my rock formation, will it be too much light?
<I don't think so. I used a 150 watt HQI on a 29 gallon tank and I didn't think it was too bright or too much light.>
I plan to have the Acros centered at the top of the aquarium, the Acros will be 8 inches from the light. The softer corals will be placed lower in a stepped down look from the center of the tank. I am concerned with 1) coral bleaching from too much light (250w)
<Bleaching generally occurs when corals do not get enough light, they expel their Zooanthellae.>
because of the shallowness of the tank. 2) Having a major glare from too much light. Do you think the Elos Planet II 150w 14k with 4 T5's is plenty of light, or will I be better off with the Elos Planet II 250w 14k with 4 T5's lighting fixture? I just want to make the most informed decision.
<Yes, when you are about to spend quite a few hard earned dollars on a light fixture, you want it to be right. For Acros, Monti's, clams, the 250 is not going to be too much light and for that matter, not too much for the softies being the light will be well above the water surface. I have visited a shop here in town that has a 450 gallon reef set up. He is lighting it with four, 400 watt halides with actinics, and he has softies galore just looking great. I have never saw mushroom anemones that large.
To give you an example, a 100 watt metal halide has the same light intensity as three 48" T8 HO's. Metal halide lamps will average 65-115 lumens per watt. Now, if we multiply say 90 lumens by 250, we have 22,500 lumens, much less than direct sunlight which is a minimum of 32,000.
The lamp lumens will vary depending on the Kelvin temperature of the lamp.
For clarity's sake, the difference between the Lux and the lumen is that the Lux takes into account the area over which the luminous flux is spread.
A flux of 1,000 lumens, concentrated into an area of one square meter, lights up that square meter with an luminance of 1,000 Lux. However, the same 1,000 lumens, spread out over ten square metres, produces a dimmer luminance of only 100 Lux. The 150 watt fixture may be enough, but considering it will be hanging 8" above the water surface, the intensity/lumens will drop some.>
Have you had any pros or cons on the Elos Planet II light fixtures?
<I'm not familiar with them but I've heard no negatives.>
The reason Im studying the Elos fixture is because of its sleek looks.
<Yes, very nice looking and appears to be a quality fixture.>
Thanks for all of your information.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Paul

2/18/2009 Lighting - Little Information, Reading
Sorry to bother you. I can't seem to figure out this lighting stuff. Will this light be sufficient in a tank 50cm deep and supportive of live rock, frog spawn, mushrooms, and an anemone: Current USA 48" Nova extreme T5 fixture 2x54w 10k/460nm? If so what bulbs should I use and will this work with canopy, or get to hot? Thanks for your help. <Hi, My immediate thought on reading your question is no, that is not an adequate amount of light to keep the invertebrates that you mentioned. However, to best answer your question I am going to need more information. What kind of
Anemone? How much live rock? How large is your tank? What kind of filtration would you be using? All of those facts are important, as even with correct lighting, if your filtration system is inadequate, your animals will die. I would suggest that you start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm If you open that link, and look at the top of the page, you will see links to 45 different pages written about marine system lighting. I'm sure that the answers you seek will be found there. Lastly, please check your spelling and grammar before sending an inquiry. MikeV>

Re: Lighting Question, MH... 55 gal., SW, waste heat concern    
I'm so very sorry to bother you again, but I have run across more conflicting info in the FAQ's and have another question.
<No worries, Matt. This is why we're here.>
Since my tank is a standard 55gal, would metal halide lighting be too hot and burn everything up? I have seen that it is recommended not to use MH lighting on a 55gal tank, but have also seem recommendations to use 2 150 watt MH pendants above this same setup. All of this conflicting info is starting to get confusing to me. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
If the 2 pendants would be fine, how far above the tank should I keep them to minimize evaporation and bleaching of my corals?
<First, let me preface this by reminding you that every set up is different. So, just because someone had heat issues with MH lighting over a 55gal that does not mean your set up will as well. Whether your tank will overheat depends on several factors. First, what is the highest temperature your tank has reached with your current lighting method? If it is in the upper levels of the acceptable range, then you should consider using more efficient equipment (such as cooler running return pumps or circulation powerheads) and/or increase cooling (by adding a chiller or fans) before upgrading to MH. Second, not all MH setups are the same as some are terribly inefficient. Consider going with a proper MH set up with a quality electronic ballast like the Icecap 150W ballast and bulb like the Phoenix 14k to maximize efficiency. Review this site for more information on efficiency: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting.
For reference, I live in Southern California where ambient temperatures can be quite high in the summer and I am able to hang a 150W MH set up 12" over my 24 gallon Nano Cube. I use a fan to blow cool air over the water surface to increase evaporative cooling and water temperature is table at 80-81 degrees even on the hottest days.>
Thanks again
Matt
<You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>

Lighting Question - please help, my corals HATE me!!
Multiple Problems In Reef Tank 2/9/09
This is my first post here, although I read your forums almost daily. I have benefited greatly from the advice given here, although you wouldn't know it by looking at my very sad corals right now.
My question is in regards to MH lighting and I think I have too much. I would like to know if I do in fact have too much, and what can be done to remedy this with my current setup. I am guessing I should switch to lower intensity bulbs, or can I just reduce my photoperiod?
Here is what is going on - I have a 55 gallon setup with 2 MH bulbs, 250W each and 10K. I also have 2 actinics, 96W and 36 inch each. These are enclosed in a canopy hood. I obviously had a heat problem, so in addition to fans I bought a chiller. Heat seems to be managed ok. My photoperiod is only 5 hours/day currently. The bulbs sit approx. 8- 9 inches above where my first layer of LR starts. I do think my 55g is a little deeper than most - it is approx. 20 inches deep.
<The MH lamps will provide plenty of light, I'd stop using the fluorescent lamps, cut down on heat/energy.>
My main problem is algae. My soft corals seemed to be doing very well, but any hard corals that I tried succumbed to being over taken by algae. I have hair algae to be exact. In doing some research I learned that phosphates were likely the cause (were ranging around 0.2 - 0.3ppm). I bought a phosphate reactor and over the course of 3 weeks have gotten these down to non-detected. Still I have hair algae, although not as bad. My MH bulbs were 14 months old and my actinics were 6 months old, so I changed all 4 of them out (thinking bad bulbs were causing the algae). This is
when my corals really started to go south. I acclimated too fast for one thing. I kept them on for one hour a day, and increased by an additional hour each day or two.
<I don't think the acclimation was too fast.>
My red Scolymia coral is bleaching, my bubble coral seems to be screaming at me (bubbles are deflating), my button polyp looks like he is receding, and my green open brain used to be gorgeous and now looks shrunk. The only 2 corals I have which look gorgeous are my finger leather and colt coral.
I moved my red Scolymia into a shaded area at the bottom of the tank (question about him - when he started bleaching, I noticed inside his "mouth" opening that you can see white hard looking stuff. What is this?
Is there any hope for him?). Also my fire coral, which I thought took higher lighting, yesterday looked very pale.
Please help me to rectify this situation! Reduce my photoperiod? Switch to lower bulbs? Something entirely else?
Here is my stocking list and tank parameters. I already know that you are going to say that I have way too many fish and this is causing my algae problems also. I agree, they were just so beautiful I couldn't stop buying them!! Should I trade back one or two or three? Truthfully, I thought I was compensating ok for them with the protein skimmer and phosphate reactor. Also, I feed every other day.
<There is more to keeping corals than just providing light. What are your calcium, magnesium, nitrate, and pH levels?>
Stocking list
1 Yellow Tang, 1 Hippo Tang, 1 Powder Blue Tang, 1 Coral Beauty, 1 Flamehawk, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Ocellaris clown Bubble Tip Anemone, Elegance Coral, button polyp, Fire Coral, Colt Coral, leather coral, red Scolymia, bubble coral, green tooth coral, green (with some red) open brain, crocea clam, orange ball sponge, yellow Acropora, and a red vase coral frag.
<YIKES! Your tank is too small for these tangs and the BTA does not belong in this tank, they can/will move and sting corals in the process along with risking the fish to their sting. The BTA needs to go.>
I have approx. 100 pounds of LR, various clean up crew snails and crabs, and mushrooms growing on my LR.
I have a protein skimmer (AquaC), UV sterilizer, chiller, phosphate reactor, and I filter with a sump (with bioballs.....ack!). I use carbon sporadically. Water changes are weekly with RO water and automatic top-off
is RO water buffered with reef calcium and reef buffer. I do not test for,
<Do not test for? How do you know if you have the proper levels of calcium and magnesium which are both important and necessary for coral growth.>
or add, any trace elements except what is present in my reef calcium (I think strontium and magnesium)
Tank parameters (measured yesterday)
temp hangs around 75.8 - 76.1 at night and climbs to 78 - 79 with halides on
SG = 1.025
pH = 8.28 (taken 1.5 hours after lights on, with a pH meter)
calcium = 420 ppm
dKH = 10
NO3 = 20 ppm
<Too high here, likely the cause of your algae problem.>
PO4 = 0 - .05 ppm (hard to tell exactly with this test kit)
Alk = 3.0 mEq/L
<This is the same as dKH, no need to test for both. Meq/l times 2.8 will give you the dKH.>
Any suggestions at all that you have for my tank I would greatly appreciate, even if it means getting rid of some fish and my bioballs.
<Yes, your fish stocking level is too high and likely is why nitrate levels are high. Do the tangs a favor and find are larger home for them, will not last long in this system, especially the Powder Blue. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tangs,.htm
James (Salty Dog)>  

Lighting (Too Much?)  1/30/09
I've read and been told that 2 175 watt metal halides would work for my 55 gallon reef tank.
<<Okay>>
I've found a 48" fixture on eBay, but the bulbs that come with it are 250's. Would this be too much light intensity? Tank is 18" deep.
Thanks,
Pat
<<Speaking at a very high level with virtually no information about your system or its occupants…no, this is not too much light versus the 175w system (and raising the fixture can lessen intensity, if necessary)…though it is probably more than you “need.” EricR>>

Lighting - Not Enough - Too Much 1/13/09
I read everything I can find on the hobby. I have "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist", "The Reef Aquarium, Vol. 3", Matthew Wittenrich "Breeder's Guide to Marine Aquarium Fish", and Joyce Wilkerson's book on Clownfish and have read them cover to cover numerous times.
<Great, all of us can always learn more!>
I have also read your site regularly, which is an awesome service to the hobby.
<Thank you!>
Still I can't seem to get a grasp on the lighting situation with all of the combinations, NO, HO, VHO, PC fluorescents, Metal Halide, new technology, etc. I want the best combination, spectrum, and brightness to keep my livestock happy and healthy and still be able to afford my electric bill.
Background: I have a 1 year-old 29G with a mated pair of Ocellaris Clowns, a 7-month 29G with a mated pair of Australian Black Ocellaris Clowns, and my Christmas present from my wonderful wife, a new 75G which will be a reef tank. My in the near future plan is to build an approx. 550+G (120"x36"x30") built-in wall reef tank in my living room.
<Quite a nice jump in size!>
My question pertains to the current reef tank and future reef tank. There seems to be conflicting opinions from two of my most valuable sources, Mr. Fenner's book and Sprung/Delbeek's book on spectrum. Mr. Fenner suggests full spectrum fluorescents in the 6500K color temperature range to be acceptable and Sprung/Delbeek suggest more light in the blue range (10,000K+) for proper Zooxanthellae photosynthesis in corals and other invertebrates. Which is best?
<Well, the short answer is what you like best. The lower K bulbs give what your corals actually need while the trend of the last few years is to go to a bluer bulb for the look. The 10000K bulb is generally considered the best compromise between the two. Actinic supplementation will give the bluer look that many seek.>
<<Oh, and my incept date for this opinion is some thirty years old... pre-dates MH use in the hobby interest. RMF>>
My 75G has hood equipped with two fans that I robbed from a broken computer one blowing air into the hood and one sucking air out of the hood. Fans are on timer and only come on when lights are on. I have a 18G refugium, separate 18G sump with DIY Kalkwasser container dripping at the same rate as evaporation (about 1 1/2 gallons per day, installed 2 days ago), approx. 3" sand bed, 100 lbs live rock (purchased dry rock and placed it in my other aquariums to seed). I have (2) Hydor Koralia 3's on each end of the tank facing each other. Quiet One 3000 main pump (750Gph rated, about 450-500 Gph after head pressure calculated). The output of the main pump feeds a small amount of water to a DIY Algal Turf Scrubber above the refugium and the remainder is branched into two output that are aimed directly into the flow of the two Hydor Koralias to crate a chaotic flow.
<Sounds nice.>
The current randomly changes throughout the tank. Is this adequate water flow for SPS corals?
<Yes, but you certainly could swap the 3s for the 4s.>
I have (2) Koralia 4's not being used. Livestock is currently two very small Gold-Stripe Maroon Clowns that I hope will pair, a Bubble Tip Anemone, a Bubble Coral, small Yellow Toadstool Leather, and a Purple Tip Acropora.
<A dangerous mix. Do search WWM re allelopathic interaction.>
My wife has me on a one aquarium purchase per month allowance (better than nothing), so will add more coral slowly, mostly SPS and LPS.
<Do check re compatibility with what you have.>
Water parameters (Tank has completely cycled): Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, PH 8.2, Calcium 340 ppm, Alk 10 dKH. Trying to get calcium up a little.
Temp 79.4 at night 79.8 during day.
Back to the lighting question, I have a DIY lighting arrangement that I want to make sure is going to be enough. I have (8) T8 bulbs, trying to split the difference between full spectrum and blue light I went with (3) 6500K full spectrum, (3) 10,000K and (2) Actinic bulbs. All are overdriven 2x, I am aware that this will shorten bulb life, but I wanted to make sure I had adequate light. Is this enough lighting for SPS corals AND to maintain bright color.
<Yes, the lighting is fine.>
Most of the sellers online say that their SPS corals need Metal Halide lighting to maintain their color. Is this true or can it be accomplished with fluorescents?
<The T5 bulbs can do the same thing as MH here, it is all in the application. Yours is fine.>
I purchased the Acropora before I had the 75G and placed it in one of my 29G about 4 inches below two T5�s (One 6500k and one Actinic.) It turned brown after a few weeks. I moved it to the 75G about 12 inches below the surface under the 8 T8�s and it has recovered about half of the purple color and seems to gain more purple everyday. Is this a good indicator that I have enough light or is it something else?
<The lighting spectrum and intensity can affect color, it is not necessarily an indication of health either way.>
One last thing: What do you think about the Fluorex lights available at Home Depot?
<I love them, even used to sell them before subsidies here in Ca made them illegal to resale specifically for our purpose.>
Lights of America website says their 65W is 6500K full spectrum 500W equivalent and 6825 Lumens. And they have a 100W 6500K, 1000W equivalent that produces 10,500 Lumens. Could these be a more cost effective alternative to Metal Halide?
<They indeed can be if you do not mind the yellow look. I have used these for refugium lights and freshwater planted tanks. My big issue with these lights it the cost of replacement bulbs. It is cheaper to buy a whole new fixture! Many of the Costco's do carry these off and on too, even cheaper.>
I would like to see these bulbs available in higher color temperature.
<Me too!>
And how can you figure watts/gallon correctly if all of the different technologies have different lumens/watts.
<You can’t, that is why WPG stinks.>
I don't see how comparing watts/gallon is comparing apples to apples across different technologies. Is there some easier way to be sure you have proper lighting on a reef aquarium?
<Comparisons to systems that work, experience.>
Thank you for all that you do and sorry for the long email. This problem has been bugging me for a year now and I value your opinion.
Matt
<No problem Matt. I do hope this “sheds some light” on the subject for you. Scott V.>

Lighting Cnidarians, 75 gal., T 5s      1/7/09
Hi crew,
<Hi Marc, Minh at your service.>
Real quick one. Just would like your opinion. I have 220 watts of t5 lighting on a 75 gallon tank. One actinic bulb, two 18k bulbs, and one 10k bulb. Do you think this would be enough lighting for mushrooms, and leather corals? Cauliflower, Finger, and Toadstool leathers. Also do you think it would be sufficient for some LPS, mostly would like to add a Frogspawn, Torch or Hammer coral.
<Although there are many varieties of T5 lighting each with different performance capabilities based on the brand of bulb, type of ballast and reflectors used, the average T5 set up should be more than adequate for the corals you want to keep. To find out performance data on your particular set up, you can visit this excellent lighting information page:
http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com.>
Thanks again,
Marc
<You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>  

Reef Lighting/Selection 1/5/09
Looking to by bulb combo. For a 4ft 23inch deep tank. Looking to do fish and soft corals. Looking at the TEK 6 bulb light fixture. What is the best setup? Choice of Giesemann and ATI.
Someone said 3 ATI blue plus and 3 Giesemann aqua blu. Or add 1 UVL AquaSun and take out a Giesemann. Want bulbs for growth and light without it being too blue.
<Personally I think the fixtures you mention are pretty pricey. Take a look at the Current 8 bulb fixture which can be had for 100 bucks less with lamps. Look here.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage~PageAlias~lighting_fluorescent_
current_usa_nova_extreme_t5_high_output_ho_lunar.html
As far as bulb selection, I'm thinking dealers are not going to open boxes and switch lamps for you. If you find one that will, then I'd go with a 3 to 1 ratio of 10K and actinic. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Reef Lighting/Selection 1/5/09
Bob,
You may want to post this in addition to my reply of the above query.
Drs. Foster & Smith has a sale on the Nova Extreme 8 lamp T5 fixture. Their sale price including lamps is 386.99, item number AKA-21109. www.drsfostersmith.com.
James
<<Have forwarded to the querior as well. B>>

Adequate Reef Lighting? ~ 01/05/09
Hi Guys,
<<Howdy Peter>>
I recently purchased a lighting canopy from a friend. This canopy is outfitted with a 2 65watt compact fluorescents (one daylight 10000k/one actinic) as well as a 150 watt metal halide. I will be using this canopy for my 65 gal reef aquarium that is 3' long and 18" deep. I currently have several mushrooms and xenias, Zoanthids and a toadstool
coral. Is this enough lighting for this size tank and corals?
<<Strictly speaking, yes, this should be plenty of light for this tank/these animals. Whether or not it is *optimum* is a different matter. I have seen Corallimorphs turn brown under lighting that was too intense for their needs, though they did just fine otherwise. And if the Toadstool happens to be the variety commonly known as a Yellow Fiji Leather, then it will likely appreciate a bit more intensity though it will probably do fine here if positioned correctly. My point to this is there are no pat answers. Yes, this light can/will keep your corals alive in this tank. But you will need to research the individual lighting requirements’ of each to determine their best placement re orientation and height within the water column>>
Also, when I determine the amount of watts I am providing to my tank, is this just an addition of the fluorescents and halides?
<<Indeed… But this *rule of thumb* is a poor guideline at best. In addition to the individual needs of the corals, the efficacy of the lighting is also affected by water clarity, reflector quality, bulb and ballast type/manufacturer, etc… Even effective supplemental feeding (or lack thereof) of your corals may have an effect on the lighting needs/effectiveness>>
Thanks,
Peter
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Re: Adequate Reef Lighting? Actinic f' ~ 01/06/09
Do the actinic bulbs count toward the total watts of light being delivered to the tank or is it just the whites??
<<The basis of the formula is ANY wattage… But… A 10,000K bulb is going to provide more useful output than an Actinic bulb of the same wattage… And points out yet another inherent flaw to using this woefully poor *formula* for determining the effectiveness of your lighting>>
Thanks again,
Peter
<<Regards, EricR>>

Lighting 200 gal reef 12/16/08
Thanks for doing an excellent job.
<Thank you for reading, writing.>
I have a choice of two light fixtures for a 200 gal. tank which measures L72" X W24" X H30".
They both have four PC's which I believe are 96watts each, but the choice is the three metal halides, either 150 watts, or 250.
Which would you recommend? I currently have 6 X 96 watt PC's and want the metal halides.
<If you intend on keeping the same livestock you have with your PC's the 150s can do, but for a 30" deep tank 250 MH bulbs are the way to go.
It will give you the flexibility of keeping just about anything lighting wise within the tank. Light intensive livestock in the upper half, with less needy inverts down towards the bottom. With 150s you will be a bit more limited, keeping
things such as SPS in the upper third or so.>
James Wedel
<Scott V.>

Reef Lighting During Winter Question � 11/17/08
Hi all,
<<Greetings Skaife>>
Great information on your site, and I use it frequently to expand my knowledge.
<<Very good to hear>>
Now for my question. I have a 125g saltwater tank with 4 X 96W PC lighting. I have some xenia, a few Kenya trees, and a purple ribbon gorgonian that were on my live rock and have flourished in my tank.
<<Mmm, okay but I would expect the gorgonian (likely Pterogorgia sp.), and even the other corals you mention, would enjoy/benefit from a bit more light intensity than you now have especially since Im betting that at least half these bulbs are Actinic vs. Daylight>>
My question is about altering my lighting schedule during the winter.
<<Not necessary… Most all tropical locations where these organisms are collected have about the same duration of daylight year-round (i.e. � 12 hrs)>>
I do not use a heater on my tank, as it stays very consistent between 77-79 degrees during the summer months as that is our room temperature.
<<This is not an uncommon practice. The gear (pumps, lights, etc.) used to keep our reef systems going generally produce more than enough heat delegating heaters to an �emergency only� role for the most part>>
During the winter, we drop our temperature down to 75 degrees in the house, which is changing the tank temperature to 75-77 degrees.
<<Should be fine>>
With this water temperature change, I was wondering if I should alter the lighting times to relate to winter months.
<<Nope…for the reason stated>>
I currently run the actinic 8 hours, and the 10K daylight bulbs 6 hours.
<<Mmm… Insufficient in my opinion… You say your corals are flourishing, but I'll wager they are not… Not under this lighting combo and regimen… They may be living, even growing a bit but I do also believe they would fare better under more light. At the least, I recommend you increase the 10K photo-period to at least 10-hours per day with 12-hours being even better. There's been some speculation that increasing the photo-period can in a small way compensate for lack of intensity, but adding another couple 10K bulbs, in conjunction with increasing the lighting duration, would be of great benefit here in my opinion>>
I was thinking of reducing it down to 6 hours actinic and 4 hours daylight. Would this be ok?
<<I do not recommend this>>
Or should I leave it on the normal schedule?
<<The schedule you have now is not �normal�…bump up the light, mate. Here's some additional info/reading on marine system lighting: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm >>
Thanks,
Skaife
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Lighting for 55 gallon reef 11/15/08
I am looking for lighting for a 55 gallon reef, 36x18x20. I am planning to keep softies and LPS corals because, as Bob writes in his book, I need to learn the craft before I start on the more challenging stuff. I have been researching and have narrowed the field, and am hoping you can advise me.
<Sure.>
I am leaning towards T5 fluorescents.
<Great choice.>
The two fixtures I am looking at are the Tek Light (6x39w), or the Aquactinics Tx5 (5x39w). Is there a big difference between the two fixtures?
<Just the one bulb difference.>
Do you know if the design/materials of the Aquactinics make up for having one less bulb?
<No, both appear to have individual reflectors.>
The third option I am considering is the SunPod MH, 2x150 watt MH HQI. I would either run a Ushio 10k or Phoenix 14k bulb. I may need actinic supplementation for aesthetics.
<I would stick with the T5 on this tank.>
Are any of these options better than the others? Is there another one I am missing?
<Nah, either of the T5 offerings you mention will serve you well. Look at price, the
inclusion of bulbs with the fixture. All of that being equal, do opt for the 6 bulb.>
I do appreciate the help. Thanks
dean
<Very welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Lighting for 55 gallon reef 11/16/08
Thanks Scott.
<Welcome.>
With bulbs and all, they were very close in price. It seemed that the Tek light was the better deal, but with the Aquactinic rep I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.
<Nah, same basic thing except the extra bulb.>
dean
<Scott V.>

Re: Lighting for 55 gallon reef
Further Comment on Light Posting, fluo. fixt. choices 11/18/08
Hey,
<Hello Dean.>
I was reading the dailies and saw a response to my post. I have comment of my own.
<Okay.>
Scott and Andy,
I did choose to go with the Tek 6 HO light for a couple of reasons. I agree that the Aquactinics TX5 has some performance characteristics over the Tek 6 Light, but the Tek 6 has some as well.
The Aquactinics has better reflectors and active cooling, and both contribute to the fixtures performance. From my research, the TX5 can penetrate better. My tank however is only 20" deep, with a DSB also in the mix, so I cannot take full advantage of the reflectors. If my tank was a 65, 36x18x24 it would be a different story.
As for active cooling, I saw my third snowstorm of the season today, My place doesn't get that warm, and I can always add a fan. In the end what was the deciding factor was the sixth bulb. Not because extra wattage, but because a sixth bulb give me more flexibility in mixing bulbs and tuning the spectra.
<A good point not yet mentioned.>
My bulbs are:
Back
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Korallin Zucht Fiji Purple
Giesemann Midday
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 72.25
ATI Blue Plus
Front
The TX5 may be the better fixture, but the Tek 6 made more sense in my situation as it turns out. I would have had to give up my 75.25 and I really wanted that to pull out the reds in my firefish and coralline.
But thanks for the help! This has been very educational for me. Y'all rock.
Dean
<Thank you for the further input Dean. My stance re has already been
posted. Glad you are happy with your choice. Scott V.>
The post was:
*Comment on Light Posting, fluo. fixt. choices 11/18/08*
<Hello again Andy.>
I was reading Today's Questions and saw a snippet of a post about the TEK
vs. Aquactinics lights. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the original post/answer, so forgive me if I'm way off base here. The post/answer was:
"Re: Lighting for 55 gallon reef 11/16/08
Thanks Scott.
<Welcome.>
With bulbs and all, they were very close in price. It seemed that the Tek light was the better deal, but with the Aquactinic rep I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.
<Nah, same basic thing except the extra bulb.>
dean
<Scott V.>"
I assume the poster/you were talking about the TEK 6 light HO T5 versus the Aquactinics TX5 fixture? <Yes.> I have seen/observed both of these in action, and I can tell you that there is a pretty significant difference between the two fixtures, IMO. The difference in output/light quality/brightness is pretty astounding, with the Aquactinics being the superior fixture. I'm not poo pooing the TEK, which is a fine fixture, but the 5-bulb Aquactinics I've seen produces a much better/brighter output than the 6-bulb TEK. Maybe it's the reflectors, maybe it's the ballasts, maybe it's the bulbs that were being used--I don't know. I've been told that the TEK runs very hot, which I'm also told reduces the efficiency of the fixture/bulbs. Although I don't always subscribe to this way of thinking,
I honestly believe there is a reason the Aquactinics fixture is more expensive--because it is hands down a better fixture. My LFS uses both, and the difference really is impressive. I'm sure you/others have a lot more experience with light fixtures, and maybe these models in particular, but I just thought I'd share my impressions/$.02.
<Thank you for your input, I do have to say I myself have not seen the difference. There are so many factors to consider: bulb type/spectrum, age of bulbs, fixture maintenance (reflector cleaning), and even the perception of light put out. Both of these fixtures use HO T5 bulbs with individual reflectors. I do appreciate your comments and this will be posted for others
to make a more educated choice. Thank you.>
Andy
<Talk again soon, Scott V.>

Re: Stocking, Questions in general- now marine invert lighting 11/4/08
Thanks for the quick response!
<My pleasure.>
I went to www.asira.org, another awesome website!
<Tis, put together by WWM's own Sara M. (when she is not dressing up dogs).>
<<Haha... thank you Marc, Scott.>>
Just wanted your opinion on one other thing. the lighting in my tanks consists of two lights. A Finnex, t5, with two 55 watt bulbs, and a Coralife t5, with two 26 watt bulbs. So, in total, about 160 watts of t5 lighting. So just over 2 watts per gallon. But, I have my liverock stacked in the middle of the tank, and by middle I'm referring to back to front, and then running from one side of the tank to the other, left to right. So the rock wall divides the tank in half, it almost makes it like a 55 gallon display, with the back half of the tank just adds to water volume. So I have the two lights in the very front of the tank, with the one actually tilts back at the front of the rock wall, and behind the rock wall is not lit up at all. So am I right in assuming that this is more intense than if it was lighting up the entire tank.
<Yes, concentrated in one section.>
Also I don't know if you are familiar with asira.com's rating system with lighting, but if you are, what you consider the lighting i have, they rate moderate t5 lighting to be a 3, and then extensive t5 lighting to be like a 5 or a 6, according to this ranking system, where would you rate my lighting?
<Sara herself may very well chime in here, but I would call this a 3-4, do also keep in mind her scale depends on placement also.>
<<Yes, indeed... especially with T5 lighting (well, any lighting really), depth makes a *huge* difference.  I would rate it a 3-4 at about 2ft+ down, from the top down to 1.5 to 2ft, it might be closer to a 5. -Sara M.>>
Thanks again for the help!
Marc
<Welcome, Scott V.>

T5 lighting for 30 gallon mini reef 11/2/08
I am saving up for a lighting upgrade on my 30 gallon tank. For corals I currently have some softies and a sun coral.
<The latter can be tough, depending on the species. See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm.>
For lighting I'm temporarily using power compact lighting (4-foot light on a 3-foot tank) which I got for free. <Can't beat the price! I have yet to pay someone to take my *old * lighting!>
I have been saving up for months to get upgraded lights that will allow me to handle some LPS and a clam (not too interested in SPS at present, but it seems the clam is just as demanding).
<For the most part, yes.>
I think T5's seem a good way to go because they are cheaper than Halides both initially and down the road (electricity, cooling, bulb replacement). Also since my tank is not huge or deep, I'm guessing that T5's can penetrate deep enough without help from Halides.
<T5s are the way to go IMO, save the �shimmer� effect.>
I plan to get a fixture (no canopy) with individual reflectors. What would be the appropriate amount of T5 bulbs to have a happy-healthy clam in a 30 gallon tank? 4x39watts? Or would I be better off with 6 bulbs?
<The 6 bulb configuration.>
I wouldn't guess that less than 4 bulbs would be advisable.
<No.>
The clam could go towards the top, if that is an issue. I'm leaning towards Current Sundial (4 bulb) and Current Nova Extreme PRO (6 bulb). I know there are better and more expensive fixtures out there (like TEK) but when it already takes me 6 months to save up $250 for lights, I would need a good reason to save up for a $400ish fixture instead.
<Do realize that for clams that will not outgrow this tank, intensive lighting and high placement will be necessary, meaning high placement in this case, can be done. Ca supplementation in such a small volume will also be an issue. Daily, if not automatic.>
Thanks for the help, Jack
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Fiber optics, sunlight and reef lighting 11/2/08
Hello again WWM crew and thank you in advance for your help (past, present and future!).
<Glad the site has helped you out!>
I was wondering if there is any available information about reef lighting using fiber optics to transmit actual collected sunlight. I have seen articles about using fiber optic lighting using MH and other synthetic light sources, but I am unable to find anything about using natural light source with fiber optics to light a reef.
<I too have been wondering this, searching for possibilities lately.>
I know there are technologies out there that use fiber optics to carry sunlight indoors to be used to light areas of rooms, but that doesn't necessarily require the spectrum to be transmitted. I know these systems are typically supplemental lights, since the sun isn't always bright enough on rainy days and gives no help at night, but it seems to me that may actually be beneficial in a reef system as long as the spectrum is maintained.
<Yes.>
It seems it would provide a year round natural light cycle that could have its own benefits. I realize that you would have to have enough fibers to attain the proper intensity, but I do not know how many fibers that might be.
<Nor do I, it would depend on the ambient intensity.>
So, basically what I am wanting to know is can fiber optics be used to transmit sunlight to a reef tank in place of artificial lights?
<I have no doubt it could.>
Can it maintain the proper quality and quantity for photosynthetic creatures?
<Don't see why not.>
Would such a system be possible and feasible or would it necessarily be too large in order to maintain light intensity?
<I suspect it would likely be cost prohibitive.>
It seems to me that even if there were more initial cost, the long term savings in electricity and replaced bulbs would offset the initial investment rather quickly.
<To a point. I do love, am captivated by the idea. With new emerging technologies, the power cost to light our reefs is dropping all the time. Free would be nice. T5s have started to change the way reef lighting is implemented, with the LEDs being the future IMO. Below is the best material I have found thus far on the subject, though not directly reef related.>
Once again, thanks for all your help and for a great site. Rob Watson
<Welcome, Scott V.> http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/246/ http://pesn.com/2005/07/27/9600139_Fiber_Optics_Bring_Sun_Indoors/

Re: Fiber optics, sunlight and reef lighting 11/5/08
Thanks for the quick response and good info.
<My pleasure, learning here too!>
It seems to me from the info you pointed me to that the technology is probably there.
<Definitely, the question is, is it worth the cost or can it be done DIY?>
The system that seemed most promising in my opinion is the satellite dish style collector that moves with the sun. I had seen some info on these systems already, but what you pointed me to was more informative.
As a follow-up, if I were to query these companies about the light quality their systems emit at the business end of the fiber optics, what questions would be pertinent? I am aware of the guidelines for artificial light (Kelvin rating preferred 10-20 K, 4-8 watts per gallon depending on species being kept), but I am sure there are other questions that would be more informative in this natural lighting type scenario.
<That is one question, what is the color temperature that is actually transmitted. From what I have read the data FOs use shorter wavelengths than we would use in the reef. But, I do also realize it is more of a matter of the source light, which in our case is the sun. If the spectrum is transmitted without alteration, actinic lighting can balance things out for the tank.>
For instance, is there a PAR rating of the light exiting the fiber optics that I need to look for (based on mounting the "lamp" end either at X distance from the water surface or even under water)?
<I would ask in regards to spectrum and lumens emitted. I doubt (though it would not hurt to ask) that they will have a PAR value to offer, it would be nice.>
Since one of their main points is that you get natural color, does that need to be a concern? Or, does that most likely mean the light will be around 6700 K and not near the 10K or more desired?
<Actinic supplementation would be required. If a filter is employed to alter the spectrum (or if the optic line itself changes things), it would simply filter out the lower wavelengths, not increase the shorter.>
Is there some other measure or light intensity I need to seek, or if they claim their light is equivalent to X watts, would that be more useful?
<Watts in relation to whatever bulb they are comparing it to can be useful, I would like to know a claimed lumen output, although this will depend highly on the input!>
I saw an article (I believe in Advanced Aquarist) that mentioned the possibility of the light-emitting end being placed under the water surface, since there isn't heat emitted and no electricity to prevent this, that would allow for lower light levels since you would be losing no light to surface reflection. Not sure I am a total proponent of this, since you would lose the dappling effect that you get from single point light source. Plus, it seems you would inevitably get salt creep into difficult to clean places, even in a very well sealed unit. But I can see the benefits of requiring less light and making this more feasible since there is no surface reflection. What are your thoughts on above the water surface versus below the surface lighting in this type setup?
<I see many problems with below the water, mainly light dispersion. Even though it is �free�, we still want the whole tank to be lit!>
The articles I read also state that the reflector of this systems blocks UV and IR. While I can definitely see the benefits (no cancerous UV and no heat transmission from IR), is there some amount of these spectrums that is currently considered necessary in a reef?
<Not really, we do take steps to filter out UV with our halides. Some do argue that some UV is necessary.>
I am aware that in many species, lack of UV-B can cause calcium deficiency. Do corals and other photosynthetics also utilize UVA and UVB?
<No.>
Would the lack of all UV be detrimental? Would it be better to only block the cancerous UVC for a reef?
<These all bring us back to the basic question, what spectrum do these systems transmit? Filtering out the shorter wavelengths will lower the Kelvin rating. Do realize many indoor lights are 4000K, or even down to 3000! If this is what they are comparing to then.  However, I do suspect the filtering of shorter wavelengths is intentional, likely with a simple filter, that should be able to be omitted from the system.>
Thanks again for all the help.
Sincerely,
Rob Watson
<Thank you for spurring me to investigate this further. I have talked to a couple of engineering/reefing friends and they both seem to think there is great promise in this, even as a DIY! One even has the idea (and wants to try out) of aluminizing (like they do for telescope mirrors) a satellite TV dish. It is a parabolic collector with a known focal point! Pricing out some FO lines, we speculate this may be able to be done for the price of a nice MH fixture. Time and experimentation will tell, as will spectrum and intensity! One great link I was pointed to, hopefully this will help you out too. I will keep in touch with what we find, as I urge you to do to. Scott V.>
http://www.nait.org/jit/Articles/grise122002.pdf

Lighting Choices... reef  9/26/08
Hi everyone.
I have a lighting question for you. I have looked at your site but the more I look the more I get confused. I was reading this article from Bob
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
and it states in his opinion that full spectrum florescent lighting VHO is the best most appropriate lighting.
<In some situations, less so nowadays.>
But then when I read more into other articles others there answer say that PC and VHO are basically the same but PC has more density than VHO but Metal Halide would be the way to go.
<Again, it depends on your system and livestock.>
This is my plan and then you can give me an idea if you don't mind. I have a 55g that I want to move over to a 125g AGA that I got a few months ago. I have finally finished the sand bed and plumbing and want to start on the light. The light I have now on my 55 is a Odyssea 260w CF and I don't think that will be enough of my 125. I am going to build a canopy and was planning on pulling the fixture apart to put in there but again I don't think that is enough. I was planning on putting some DIY MH till now. It has a 6in sand bed right now. All my stock is still in my 55 which is a 4ft Zebra Eel (reason why I need to switch to my 125) 1 Clown, few Dempsey, Angel, butterfly and yellow tang and a few sps.
<Yep, time to upsize!>
I want to be able to really stock this once its up and going to lots of coral.
<What corals do you wish to keep?>
What is you recommendation on the light and how much (wattage, quantity, etc..)Also don't want something that will bring my electric cost up. Single parent.
<More wattage equals more power used regardless of bulb type. For what you are looking to do you may want to consider T5 bulbs. They tend to impart less heat into the water and are as energy efficient that you can get right now (except for LEDs, but these are big money). How much wattage depends on what you wish to keep. A little research on your part regarding your desired livestock will answer this.>
Been doing this for about 5-6years so I'm not really new to all this.
Thanks!!
Bill M
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Odd Lighting Question revised (sorry guys and gals), SW fixture choices, reefs...  9/25/08
Hello crew, hope you all are well.
<I am here, thank you.>
So I have a lighting question for you. I have a 60 cube that is 30" long x 24" tall x 18" wide. I was using two t5 lighting units, both 48 watts. I recently upgraded to a SunPod 30". Its a 150 watt MH with all the LED's ( very happy to have those for night time viewing). I took the t5's down, but after chatting with some reefer friends that use other types of lights with there MH's, I started to think about maybe using the t5's with the MH SunPod. Would you recommend this?
<You could, its up to you. Most use T5 actinics with MH to “blue” the water a bit more and make the livestock fluoresce a bit. Realize that all light transfers some heat to the tank, even T5s.>br>I am not doing any sps, just softies, LPSs, polyps, and Shrooms. Also, I have read/heard never to remove the center plastic beam on the top of the tank, and I haven't, but it casts a shadow in the center of the tank from the MH. What's your take on that black plastic beam?
<I hate the danged things, but if your tank was designed with it leave it be.>
I am hanging the MH pendant about 10" above the tank, do you think
I should lower it?
<7-10” is about right.>
Also because my tank is so tall would I benefit from lowering the light, as well as using the t5's?
<What you list will be fine with the light you have, but the T5s will not hurt anything either. They can have quite an impact on the look of the tank depending on bulb choice.>br>Also, given the right conditions how long does it usually take coal to grow/propagate?
<Depends on the coral.>
II have notices some of my zoo's grow new polyps, but my hammer hasn't gotten any bigger or shown any signs of new growth. I also have never had Mushroom reproduce either. I have heard stories of people putting mushrooms in a tank and two weeks later splitting occurs. All my water parameters are in line and I test and change water religiously. I feed the coral with DTS 3 times a week. Any suggestions?
<Mushrooms do appreciate more of an indirect, subdued light and current. These are one of those corals that can grow like gangbusters in ill maintained systems and just be there in immaculate tanks. More info at the link below and linked pages above on the page.>br> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm
Thanks again guys and thanks for your continued support and information. This site has been a wealth of information for me over the past year.
<Heee, thank you and welcome!>
Spencer Hall
<Scott V.>

Lighting for a 150 gallon reef tank 09/18/2008
<<Hi there, Andrew this evening>>
I recently bought a 150 gallon reef ready oceanic tank, about 29 inches deep. This will be my 4th and largest tank. I plan on making this one an SPS and clam tank, and am going through my lighting options. I would like to go
with metal halides complimented with some t5's or PC's. A few concerns here.
The oceanic 150 tank has a very large and thick piece of glass used as the center brace. This sort of rules out the common and easy to find 3x xxxWatt fixtures, as the middle bulb would be blocked significantly by the brace.
<<Ahh yes, a very common issue>>
I guess these are the options I've come up with. 2x250 watt, 2x400 watt, 4x150 watt, 4x250 watt, 4x400 watt. Most of these have 4x pc's or t5's. I think that the 4x250 watt system would work well, but for some reason is about
$500 more than the 4x400 watt system I had found, which I fear may be overkill - plus a burden on my electrical system. The tank I planned on leaving with an open top and no canopy. The 2x400 watt option I feel would work well, however that would be 2 pendants without the complimenting t5's. I'd like to keep the look as simple and aesthetic as possible, and a strip of t5's I feel would hurt the look with some clean pendants. I wish that a 3x 400 watt system would work on this tank, but I fear the middle bulb would be blocked too much, as well as potentially melt the small piece of plastic which runs across the glass brace.
Of the combinations I've listed, which do you think would work well for a tank this size?
<<Josh, my suggestion to you would be 4x250w. This will give a nice coverage of light, down the full length of the tank, and be good enough to penetrate to the depths.
Thanks, Josh
<<Thanks for the questions, i hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Reef Aquarium, lighting, stkg.  09/18/2008
Hello,
<<Hello, Andrew this evening>>
I am currently setting up a 65 gallon reef aquarium 36x18x24 and I have a few questions I would like to ask.
<<Certainly, let's get to them>>
It has a Tunze DOC protein skimmer and a Tunze Calcium reactor and 65 pounds of LR and as well I use RODI water.
<<Nice>>
I am planning on putting mainly LPS, Zoanthids, Clams, and maybe Montipora in the aquarium, The lighting on the aquarium is 1- 14,000k 400 watt bulb and 2-96 watt power compacts is that sufficient enough?
<<Certainly, yes. Might be too much for some, but, simple use of shadier areas are were good>>
Secondly, how long should I wait till I had clams from the species Squamosa, deresa and/or gigas into the aquarium?
<<On the clams listed, i would not suggest any of the ones listed, as they all get to a foot or more in length>>
In addition, can I add LPS corals into the aquarium after it is done cycling?
<<Sure thing>>
Thirdly, I plan on having 2 Percula clowns, 1 mystery wrasse and I wanted to put a tang in the aquarium as a centerpiece. I was wondering if that was possible and if so which species?
In about a 60 gallon tank, the only tang i would suggest is Zebrasoma flavescens>>
Thank you very much for all your great advice
Sam.
<<Thanks for the email and questions, Sam, I hope this helps. A Nixon>>