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FAQs Lighting for Marine Invertebrates 6
Related Articles: Lighting Marine
Invertebrates,
Coral
Lighting: what we know and what we don't know (mostly the latter)
by Sara Mavinkurve
Lighting Reef Systems:
Considerations, Organisms, Goals and Costs by Bob Fenner,
Acclimating Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting,
Anemone Lighting,
Marine Light, &
Lighting, Feeding Reef Invertebrates,
Technology:
Putting on the Brakes: How much is too much? By Tommy
Dornhoffer, Related FAQs:
Lighting Marine Inverts 1,
Lighting Marine Inverts 2,
Lighting Marine Inverts 3, Lighting
Lighting Marine Inverts 4, Lighting
Marine Inverts 5, & & FAQs on Coral Lighting:
Science/Application, Designs/Fixtures,
Lamps/Bulbs, Quality, Duration &
Intensity, Night-Time,
Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Makes/Models/Manufacturers, &
Small System Lighting,
Acclimating Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting,
LR Lighting, Marine
System Lighting, FAQs
2, FAQs 3,
FAQs 4, FAQs 5,
Actinic Lighting, Metal Halide Lighting,
Fluorescent Lighting,
Compact Fluorescent Lighting, Tridacnid
Clams, Lighting Tridacnid Clams, Small
System Lighting,
Reef Systems 1,
Reef Systems 2,
Reef Set-Up 1, Reef Set-Up 2,
Reef Set-Up 3, Reef Set-Up 4,
Reef Set-Up 5, Reef Set-Up 6,
Reef Filtration, &
Reef Livestocking, Reef
Livestocking 2,
Reef Feeding, Reef Disease,
Reef Maintenance, | .JPG)
Remember... you're lighting all
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Yet Another Redundant Lighting Question
1/31/2010
Hello Crew,
<Hello M.D.>
Once again I am faced with a decision only your years of experience can
help me make. OK, maybe I'm pushing it but I would appreciate your
advice.
<Ok>
My peninsula style 100 gal reef aquarium is currently illuminated by a
pair of 250w 14000k DE Ushio bulbs mounted in Lumen Max 3 reflectors,
bulbs parallel to the long sides of the tank. These are quite large so
to simulate dawn to dusk lighting I only have room for a pair of 36" 39W
T5 14000k bulbs within the canopy.
<I would have had one of these at 20000K>
The canopy is fully enclosed but well ventilated and places the bottom
of the fixtures 12 1/2 " from the water's surface. This arrangement
works well enough but I would like to see more fluorescence from some of
my corals.
My plan is to replace the 14000k T5 bulbs with Geissmann pure actinics
but this would eliminate the dawn to dusk effect.
<Why? Can't you use the T5's for this anyway? To get more colour you
could play around perhaps with one purple (pure actinic) and one blue
(20000K) here>.
To compensate I plan to add an additional HQI fixture to the canopy
which would fit nicely between the two Lumenmax, the bulb perpendicular
to the long sides of the tank.
<Ok, but this will mostly light just the centre of the tank, not all the
way along like the T5's, but could look nice>
Here then, is my question. Should I use a 70W or a 150W bulb here? The
actinics and the additional halide would be on simultaneously primarily
for evening viewing after the 500W of primary lighting is off. Energy
conservation dictates 70W but I don't want the tank's illumination to
vary too much at this time of day from the current pair of 14000k T5's.
<If this is purely for a visual 'dawn/dusk' effect then the 70W might be
more relevant. If you are hoping to get some photosynthetic benefit as
well, then you will be better off with the 150W, although this will be
brighter>.
I realize this is a minor concern when compared to some of the horror
stories you deal with on a daily basis but I would appreciate your
input.
<No problem at all>
Thanks,
M.D..
<Simon>
Upgraded <reef> Lighting 1/27/10
Good Morning Crew!
<Hello Jeanne, James here with you.>
Hope this finds you all well.
<I'm fine.>
I've asked some odd and as of late often antagonistic questions of you
in the past,
<Is no problem, is what we do.>
so I thought I might be able to glean a little bit of useful knowledge
from you this time around. :) James might recall a few correspondences
discussing a 55g of my fathers that I've been working with him on over
the past year.
<I do recall/recognize your name, but as to the individual query, no
cigar. I've likely answered 3000+ queries in the last few years and
placing individual queries with names would be nearly impossible. Your
place of employment does stand out as my brother-in-law retired from
Stryker as VP of Finance (Kalamazoo Headquarters) and now resides in AZ
along with the rest of my wife's family.>
This question is in regard to this system which for the rest of you has
almost completed a 180 in terms of health and I'm happy to report the
success of keeping a small colony of Zoanthids happy in the tank.
<Great.>
Not an enormous feat for many of the reef keepers across the world, but
for this particular system... think of landing on the moon for the first
time. I believe the biggest part of that particular success is a few
weeks ago the lighting system was upgraded from regular fluorescent
lighting to 216w of T5 (2x white; 2x actinic) + blue led moonlights.
<You've found the missing piece of the puzzle.>
Since adding this new lighting system there has been an expected algae
bloom in the tank. Diatoms are whisked into the water column almost
daily in an attempt to keep things clean, most rocks have a 'healthy'
coating of filamentous green algae of some sort (hair?) and a few
patches of bubble algae have been spotted also.
<Ah, nutrient levels need to be controlled. Do you use an efficient
protein skimmer and/or chemical medial?>
The photoperiod has recently been scaled back to compensate and we're
awaiting results from that adjustment before taking other measures such
as a few more snails, maybe a lawnmower... Anyways, my questions today
is that since the implementation of the new lights there has been an
explosion of bubbles coating everything (rock, gravel, glass, all
underwater equipment), and I'm not sure what to think. My theory is that
the new light has increased photosynthetic activity in the algae and
that the bubbles are the resultant oxygen accumulating, another theory
we've discussed is maybe nitrogen gas, but I don't have a way to test it
other than patiently waiting for a bubble to surface and seeing if it
catches on fire with a lighter. :)
<May want to grab some sand/gravel and bring to the surface to
smell/detect hydrogen sulphide.>
Seriously though, is it something to worry about? Is this an indication
something is wrong (ex: too much dissolved gas in the system; something
breaking down) Should we continue to blast the bubbles in hopes that
things stabilize (which is/has been a daily thing and most days could be
done 2-3x just to keep things clean)? Just hoping for some insight, the
only thing I could find on bubbles was microbubble subjects from
skimmers and such.
<Since this coincides with your new lighting, and all animal life is
fine, I would carefully continue to observe. Nitrogen gas bubbles
generally form on the surface of the sand/gravel bed, not the entire
tank. Have you tested for nitrates recently? Is possible that the more
intense lighting and an excess of nutrients may have something to do
with this, as in excess CO2 being produced from the sudden increase of
photosynthetic activity,
<<? O2, RMF>>
or the timing of the events could/may just be coincidental. Mr. Fenner
may also comment here with his vast store of knowledge/experience.
James (Salty Dog)>
Jéan Dodes
Re Assorted SW Questions/Reef Lighting 1/26/10
Thanks for the rapid reply James!
<You're welcome, Drew.>
Regarding my tank being fully stocked, do you think it would be unwise
to add a Flame Angel or C. argi as well? Just to make absolutely sure.
<Your tank's length and width are not suitable for these fishes.>
Good to know about my clowns' behavior, I'll try out the Chemi-Pure, and
I'll take your advice on the Pistol Shrimp. Thanks for these replies.
<You're welcome.>
I'll stick with the 14k on the MH, so now I'm looking into some
additional actinic supplementation. I've been looking at the various
LED's, like the one you mentioned, and I've been having a hard time
finding good accounts
as to whether they will be noticeable through my 250W MH? What would
your thoughts be on me using a Current Nova Extreme 2x24 T5 fixture with
an 1 ATI Blue-Plus and 1 ATI True Actinic as supplementation to my MH?
<If you already own this fixture, then yes, use it. Otherwise, it will
be more economical to use an Ice Cap LED tube which sells for much less
and will not generate a noticeable amount of heat into the system,
something you may want to think about, especially with the use of the
250 watt MH.>
Thanks again!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Drew
Lighting/lighting
articles, SW, Cnid.s 1/9/10
Hello Crew!
First, I hope this is not too long winded! I am going to purchase a new
lighting system for my new setup (using an old light fixture right now,
PC 260 watts) and of course came here to read about lighting. I do seem
to find some conflicting information in the lighting articles though.
<Mmm, to be expected... they span some four decades of writing, and
present more than one person's input>
For instance in this article it states nothing more than normal
fluorescents are needed and the other technologies are 'way over the
top' (not a literal wording, just the message):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
<Very olde>
Perhaps that article should be labeled as a dated piece like this one:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm
<Ah yes. Good idea>
So all well and good if I consider those two outdated, and I consider
this article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
This makes no mention of T5's, so I am guessing it is a bit dated as
well?
<All are dated... some not as much>
Of course if I knew more I would be glad to help, but I am learning
quite a lot every time I visit the site.
<Good... and please note. Re such "gear" questions, it is strongly
advised that you read the current bulletin boards re the more/most
recent choices, and actual end-users (hobbyists) input re>
So this leads to my real question(s!); I have a 75 gallon tank, 48" long
x 21" deep, with a water depth of 14" to 15" (considering water level
and sand bed). I currently have:
BTA (Entacmaea quadricolor)(settled itself at the bottom of the tank)
Zoanthids & Palyzoas (scattered in depth, bottom to high in the tank)
'Cabbage' leather (Sinularia dura)(mid-high in tank)
Monti Cap (Montipora capricornis)(high up in the tank - growing well)
Frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa)(mid-tank - growing a new head)
Candy Canes (Caulastrea echinulata)(mid-high in tank)
Ricordea yuma (high in tank)
Would you have any recommendations on my placements?
<I would not more any of these presently. I would take special care to
observe the behavior of the BTA every time you view the tank. It may
well have "troubles" with your other Cnidarians over time here>
I would like to be able to keep a clam or two.
<Could be done>
As stated earlier, my current lighting system consists of a 4ea 65 watt
PC fixture, 2 actinic bulbs and 2 10K bulbs. Is this enough light for
what I have and what I potentially want to have?
<Mmm, yes. Is sufficient. Perhaps not "ideal" or maximized in effect,
practice, but suitably bright (intense) and functional (in light
quality)>
I am considering purchasing a 6 bulb 54 watt T5HO fixture to replace my
current setup. I really do not want to get a metal halide setup if I can
avoid it due to energy costs and heat (although common thinking may be
incorrect that T5's use less power per lumen and generate less heat than
metal halides?).
<This is so>
Any recommendations are very welcome.
Thanks in advance for your answer.
Helmut Fritz
<Thank you for your intelligent discourse. Bob Fenner>
Re: lighting/lighting articles 1/9/2010
Thank for the reply. Would it be more optimal to go with a 6 bulb T5HO
(324W) fixture vs. my current 4x65W PC fixture?
<Yes>
I know in the end it is lumens and quality, but the T5HO's are supposed
to be brighter (could be a subjective term there based upon bulb color
though).
<The lower "T" technology is progressively better... in terms of light
quality and cost per value>
Are there any T5HO bulbs that replicate a full spectrum (like those old
Vita-Lite Supreme's)?
<Mmm, some that come very close>
Most of those I have seen are concentrated in blue and 10K and 6500K. If
not, what mixture would be recommended?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/t5self.htm>
In addition, is it beneficial to run the moonlight LED's at night? Some
or all of the time?
<At night alone IMO/E>
And in the comment below on the T5's using less power per lumen and
generating less heat doing so, were you agreeing with that comment (I
believe you were!) or stating that common thinking is incorrect and
metal halides and T5HO's are fairly equivalent?
<The T-5s are superior in terms of useful photonic energy produced per
quanta of potential consumed... and "produce" much, MUCH less waste
heat.
Metal halides are more/useful for deeper systems, situations where cost
per function is not "so" important, and their lights shimmering "looks"
are desired>>
Sorry if I did not get it the first time around!
<No worries. Clarity is pleasurable>
Would you recommend one system over the other? MH vs. PC vs. T5 (in
consideration of my current reef keeping desires)?
Thanks again!
Helmut
<For you here... the T5s. BobF>
|
Hi,
I wanted some help if possible! I have a 3x2x2 marine aquarium that
has been running for 4 months. I’ve a
150-watt metal halide light and also 2 blue tubes with reflectors. I have a
few soft corals and a rose bubble tip anemone. I am doing the Berlin method system with live rock and
protein skimmer but I wanted to add another 150-watt metal halide light but
was wanting to (know) if that would be too much lighting for my aquarium. I
have spoken to a few marine shops and some say yes add another, and some say
no it would be too much. What do you think?
I’ve attached a picture of my tank for you to see, thanks again
From Alison

A. What a lovely
aquarium you have Alison! It is apparent you have done your studying
concerning proper set up and arrangement of the components here. To respond
directly to your query, yes, you could have another 150 watts of Metal
Halide light here… but this is a qualified yes… or at least a “yes” with a
proffered explanation.
I would like to ask you in turn if you’re aware of the consequences
of doubling the lighting here? Principally, the issues of increased
metabolism and its related effects on water quality, your maintenance… And
the generation of waste heat, increased evaporation… And lastly, the
increased cost of operation of another 150 watts per hour of the proposed
added fixture? Let’s elaborate on each of these.
The rates of physiology of fishes and invertebrates are directly
linked with temperature, and for photosynthetic life, with the availability
of “PAR” (Photosynthetically Active Radiation)… Increasing one or the other
will boost the metabolism of your livestock… and its use of foods, soluble
biominerals… increasing wastes… and possibly undesirable algal growth. The
worst scenario is if something were to go wrong in the system, the boosted
light would make things much worse, much more quickly. Do you want to take
this risk?
Having more heat, light will definitely add to your rate of water
evaporation, likely much more than doubling the current rate. Do you want to
“top off” daily? This may be necessary. And is increasing the humidity in
the house an issue now? It will become more so.
Are you charged with the electrical cost for this tank? The operation
of the lighting is very likely the single largest expense. Please take a
look at your electric bill… there will be a stated charge for cost of power
by the kilowatt hour (the equivalent of running one thousand watts of
consumption for sixty minutes)… It is easy to calculate the direct cost of
all components, by their measured or stated consumption levels…
I would propose that if you do want to increase your light intensity,
that you look into switching out the current fixture for one of 250 watts
instead of adding another 150… and if so, that you “grade” the increase in
intensity here by using sheets of flame-proof screening (such as that used
for gardens), removing a layer every few days, to prevent burning your
livestock.
Otherwise, if this were my system, I would not increase the lighting…
for all the reasons stated above. It is lovely and fully functional as it
is, and adding more light would really not be of great benefit… Instead it
might well shorten your livestock’s lifespans, and greatly increase your
maintenance… Aspects that I’m sure we’d both rather not address.
Cheers, Bob Fenner
|
Lighting Question/Reef Lighting/Selection 12/17/09
You guys run a great website that has guided me greatly through the last
five years of my reefing hobby.
<Why thank you, Ryan, glad you are learning/enjoying.>
I have never run a tank over 40 gallons in that time. However, I have
upgraded to a 165 gallon tank (8' long x 21" wide x 19" deep) with a 60
gallon sump/refugium.
<A great size.>
I want to keep SPS, LPS, Softies, Zoos, and most importantly Deresa,
Maxima, and Crocea clams (I wish to have the clams in the substrate). My
question is about lighting. I am debating between having 4x175 watt MH
with 2x96 pc actinic, 3x175 MH with 2x96 watt pc actinic, 3 x 250 watt
MH with 2 x 96 watt pc actinic, or a 250 watt MH on one side above the
SPS and clams and 2 x 175 watt MH and 2 x 96 on the other side above the
LPS and
softies. Which one of these setups (or another setup that you would
recommend) would be best for the wide range of species that I want to
keep? And, what Kelvin do you recommend (mostly thinking of the clams)?
<I would go with your first choice, 4x175 watt MH with 2x96 PC actinic,
and I would use 10K lamps.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re Lighting Question/Reef Lighting/Selection 12/17/09
Sorry about writing two emails, but after sending the last one I thought
about it and realized that I should elaborate more on the Kelvin
question.
What I meant to say is that I would prefer to use 14k (because I assume
that that Kelvin will show the color in the clams and corals better).
So, will the coral and clams be healthy with the 14k or do I really need
to go with 10k?
<I would go with the 10K lamps, less intensity is wasted and you should
get a good amount of color with the two actinics providing they are
staggered.>
Thank you and sorry for the two separate emails,
<Not a problem, and you're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ryan Lundstrom
Re Lighting Question/Reef Lighting/Selection 12/17/09
Thank you very much. I am very impressed with the quickness of your
replies. I will do what you recommended.
<Do keep in mind that this is my opinion, other peoples opinions can be
different. I just feel that the 10K lamps are a better light source for
SPS and clams, and do not waste intensity. I have switched over to Ice
Cap 10K lamps some time ago and I did see an improvement in my SPS
growth. You may be interested to read part of an email I received from
Steven Pro, VP of sales at Ice Cap. "Although I will say that the amount
of blue in a 10,000 K lamp is something that is not universally well
understood. When looking at the spectral chart of our 10,000 K versus
14,000 K versus 20,000 K lamps (or that of other respected companies
such as Ushio for example), there is
no more blue in the 20,000 K lamps. In fact, all three color
temperatures have the exact same amount of blue in them. The way
manufacturers get a lamp that appears more blue is not to add more blue
to the 20,000 K lamp, but to remove the green, red, and yellow from the
lamp." With that said, it is the green, red, and yellow that our shallow
water corals and clams benefit more by than the blue.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ryan Lundstrom
Saltwater Transfer and Reef Lighting – 11/27/09
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I enjoy all that your website has to offer and have read many helpful
articles. Fantastic website!
<<Thank you… We are happy to know you find the collective efforts here
of benefit>>
But, after hours of research I am coming up short on a few questions.
<<Okay>>
Hope you can help.
<<I have my moments [grin]>>
I've got a question on saltwater transfer pumps.
<<Ahh…>>
I am trying to transfer saltwater from my Brute trash can in the
basement to my 90 gallon display tank.
<<I see>>
I have 12 ft of vertical and 15ft of horizontal piping all in 3/4'' ID
vinyl tubing.
<<Mmm… The diameter used, and tendency of this material to “collapse”
just from the weight of gravity, makes your project more difficult. I
suggest re-plumbing with PVC pipe (the “flexible variety is fine if you
wish, as it will not collapse like the vinyl tubing) with an inside
diameter of 1”, preferably>>
I tried my Rio 3100 submersible pump which will get it upstairs but will
only trickle into my sump.
<<Indeed… These pumps don’t handle head-pressure well at all>>
Are there any pumps or methods that you could recommend to get my
pre-made water up to my tank so I don’t have to carry buckets?
<<Yep… I use two very similar systems to transport both pre-made
saltwater to my display, as well as filtered freshwater to my top-off
reservoir. I have a vertical lift of about 10’ with a horizontal run of
about 25’ and use Mag-Drive 18 submersible pumps plumbed to 1” flexible
PVC. This make/size pump works very well for me and one would probably
serve your situation too, especially if you upgrade the plumbing. I
would also very strongly suggest you install a contact-switch to operate
the pump at the point where the water terminates. This is a simple
spring-loaded push-button switch that must be “pressed and held” to
operate the pump. This is a bit of extra electrical work (extending and
routing the pump cord along the plumbing route), but doing so is the
absolute best way to NOT flood your floor with this “automated” water
transport system. Installing such a switch means you have to stand and
watch the vessel/tank fill while pressing the button and activating the
pump. Once the desired amount of water is transferred, you release the
button and the pumps “stops.” This also happens should the phone ring,
someone knocks at the door, or some other distraction occurs, and you
walk away…get the picture?>>
Also while I'm asking, I have a problem with lighting. My tank is made
out of acrylic and the tank hood measures 47 1/2'' wide which makes
finding a suitable light to fit very difficult. To make matters worse my
hood is about 6"deep.
<<Mmm, yes…not easy to work with aside from maybe a DIY T-5 system>>
I like the looks of my oak top and would like to keep it in addition to
reef lighting. I am currently using a cheap 2 lamp 36" Coralife fixture
until I find an upgrade. I would like to try fluorescent lighting due to
heat and space confinements.
<<Fluorescents get hot too, especially high-output units…you will still
need adequate ventilation>>
I am very new to reef keeping and would be happy to have an anemone for
my clowns as well as some very beginner corals.
<<Do research WWM re our cautions and reservations with such systems
(water quality issues, mixing sessile and motile inverts, etc.)>>
The tank measurements are 48"x18"x24" but like I said the hood only
allows a 47 1/2" work space.
Any Info would be a huge help.
<<Do check out online the available “retro-fit” T-5 HO lighting gear
available. You should be able to find something you can “make fit”>>
Thanks in advance,
Doug
<<Happy to share… Eric Russell>>
Re: Saltwater Transfer and Reef Lighting – 12/04/09
Eric,
<<Doug!>>
Thanks for all the helpful info.
<<Quite welcome>>
I'm taking your advice on the Mag 18 pump, piping, and switching.
<<Excellent… You will find the Mag-Drive pump to be a big improvement
over the Rio unit>>
I’m glad you shared your experience on how to transfer saltwater.
<<Was my pleasure>>
I'm sure it will prove to be a real money/time saver.
<<Ah yes! I do 50g water changes at a time and have even semi-automated
draining of the display (I turn a valve and the water drains to the
sewer system)…hauling buckets to drain and refill was not a long-term
option [grin]>>
As far as the lighting is concerned, I think I will try a 36" 6-lamp T5
HO fixture made by Current, the Nova Extreme Pro.
<<Okay…should serve fine>>
I have an open back on my aquarium top combined with the fans on the
fixture and maybe some additional fans should keep it cool enough (I
hope).
<<Indeed>>
I will do more research on your site before putting in corals.
<<Very good>>
Once again, thanks for taking time to assist me in my reef adventures.
Doug
<<Any time my friend… Eric Russell>>
Reef Lighting 10/15/09
Hello.
<He Terrence>
I need help in regards to lighting a SPS tank. I am setting up a
standard 75 gallon tank, 48x18x20. I have a 150 watt HQI setup from a
previous tank that I took down when I moved. I am trying to figure out
if I should buy another one of these fixtures and run 2, 150 watt or
upgrade to two 250 watt systems. I would like to be able to have SPS
close to the bottom and also plan to have a clam or two.
<Two 150 watt HQI lamps should give you enough light providing you go
with 10K lamps. The 10K lamps will give you more PAR value than bluer
lamps and are better appreciated by SPS corals and clams.>
Thanks in advance,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Terrence
Basic Reef Lighting/Reef Lighting 9/18/09
Dear Crew,
<Vlad>
I don't know what I would do without your wonderful website and fast
responses.
I have 55g with LS, LR, and skimmer. I would like to make it a reef
system.
I can't afford to buy a $500+ system plus electric bills. So the few
questions are:
Will black or chrome fluorescent shop light from Lowes with two GE
Sunshine(32W 2800 Lumens, CRI 86, 5000K each) bulbs allow me to keep
soft, hard corals and clams?
<No.>
If not, with the setup above can I keep any of the above mentioned
species?
<Nope.>
What do I need to add to the system above (of course at reasonable
price) in order to keep these species?
<You would be much better off looking for a fixture that uses T5 lamps.
They have close to twice the intensity as T12's and are much more energy
efficient.
I do suggest reading here and linked files above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Can I place the shop light directly on top of open aquarium or perhaps
on top eggcrate?
<If a glass top is incorporated into the system, yes. Definitely not
recommended placing over open water.>
Thank you for your answers.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Lighting A Frag Tank/Reef Lighting 9/3/09
Greetings WWM,
<Jimmie>
I'm in the process of setting up a 4' x 2' x 12" frag tank. It will be
primarily SPS, I was thinking of buying a friends old Sunlight Supply
Maristar metal halide/T5 fixture. My only concern is that it is a
magnetic ballast which can be rather heavy and loud.
<Mmm, the Maristar fixtures come with dual electronic ballasts. Your
friend's fixture must be an old one. All ballasts operate on the
magnetic principle, the electronic ballasts incorporate special
circuitry to electronically control power to the lamps which makes them
more efficient.>
I've also heard they can interfere with radio frequencies if not
properly shielded.
<Nonsense. I can set my battery operated radio on top of my
non-electronic MH ballast with no RFI noted.>
Another fixture I'm intrigued by is the Aquatic Life HID/T5 fixture. I
understand the "spotlight" reflectors are popular in Asia and Europe.
I'm concerned with the lack of fans or any par tests. Have you any
experience with these fixtures ?
<This fixture's internal electronic ballasts work in conjunction with a
special aluminum housing to help dissipate heat away from the fixture
without the use of fans, and, this fixture is not designed to be
enclosed. As far as my experience with them, I have none. Would be
better to post this question on one of the reef forums where you will
get feedback from actual users of this fixture.
James (Salty Dog)><<Well done James. B>>
Lighting/Reef Lighting 6/28/09
Hey Crew,
<Hey Carter>
Once again, thanks for the truly amazing and helpful job you do.
<You're welcome.>
I'm searching for a little guidance here. Any words of wisdom would be
very much appreciated.
I've had a 26 gallon FOWLR for a while now, and decided I wanted to
upgrade to a larger reef tank. So, I went out and purchased a 55 gallon
tank and a set of Nova Extreme Pro 4x54 watt HO T5 lights.
Long story short, the tank wasn't even through cycling yet and it
started leaking (from the bottom where I couldn't get to it). So, I
returned the tank and got a nicer brand. For just a little more money, I
ended up with a 75 gallon tank.
It didn't cross my mind until I got home that lighting was likely going
to be an issue for me now.
<Because of increased depth?>
That's where my question comes in...
Would Zoos/Star Polyps/Mushrooms/Leathers do ok under 2.88 watts per
gallon of T5 HO with individual reflectors?
<Should be fine here. Compared to standard fluorescent light, you are
likely closer to 4 watts
per gallon.>
What about a frogspawn or torch? I do have a set of 2x65 PCs that I
could put on there too, but that would look kinda dumpy, and I'd have to
get new bulbs for it.
<Frogspawn and Torch Corals require medium to high light intensity.
Keeping these corals at the upper level of the tank should give them the
light the require. Keep in mind that these Euphyllia species are very
aggressive as to allelopathy.
Do read here
for more info in these corals.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/caryophyllids.htm>
Anyway, any input would be greatly appreciated.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Carter
Lighting, Reef 6/25/09
Hi WWM Crew!
<Hello Dan.>
So, I've just set up my 135-gallon tank. I've got the rock and substrate
in there, got the skimmer all set... Now I'm working on lighting.
I have a closed 6-foot long hood that has this pesky support brace in
the center that would prevent me from putting a full-length light. Thus
I have a 36-inch area on each side to work with. I would like to keep
fish,
anemones, and corals.
What would you use? I was thinking of two 380-watt fixtures (mixed metal
halide/power compact) -- one on each side.
<This can work, it will leave some shadows/dark spots in the tank though
(some like that look).>
Would you suggest something different?
<I have installed lighting for a few of these tanks over the years, I
would go with T5s on a tank configured like this myself. You will save
money on powering the lights, cooling and get an even spread of light
throughout the tank. And you can keep anything with these you can with
MH!>
Thanks
Dan
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Lighting, Reef 6/25/09
Thanks!
<Happy to assist.>
How much total T5 output would you use?
<I would personally shoot for 400 watts or so for a "keep what, where
you want" type of system.>
Do you have a couple favorite brands?
<Not really...kind of a controversial subject, big reflectors vs.
individual reflectors. My take and end experience is the light ends up
reflected down for the most part anyhow. If you have a canopy do look
into the "retrofit" types of kits. These can be had for about half the
price.>
Dan
<Scott V.>
Lighting set up 6/4/09
Dear Crew,
<Hi there Eric>
Thanks for all the info so far, site is great as always! Just a quick
question, I picked up a 48 inch light fixture from Sfiligoi (Infinity
XR4, got it second hand... great deal!), and I was just wondering what
kind of
tank it would work to light. It has 2 x 250W metal halides (10,000 or
14,000K) and 4 T5 lights, at 54W each. I've always wanted to do a
bowfront tank, I was just wondering if this would be sufficient lighting
to light up say a 175 Gal bowfront (72" wide), with the hope of doing
SPS and clams?
<Mmm, yes.... such an arrangement of lighting and lamp types could work
on up to a six foot wide, two foot deep body of water... for the types
of animals described>
Or would it not be wide enough?
<I think it would be wide enough... and actually rather attractive...
perhaps mounted a bit off-center, the more "light loving/needing"
organisms placed more directly underneath the MH areas>
Would I have to stick to tanks 48" wide?
<Mmm, wouldn't have to stick thus>
Thanks a lot!
Eric
<Welcome in kind/sufficiency. Bob Fenner>
T5 Compaq combo? 5/5/09
Reef Lighting
Hello Crew,
<Hello William>
I'm completely confused by the mixture of info and lack of numbers to
judge by when dealing with light bulb types, and I could use your help
(and please correct me if I list something as a fact that is actually
wrong).
<OK>
I have a 72 gal bowfront tank, which is 48" long by 13" deep by 24"
tall.
I also have the Coralife (Oceanic) 48 " deluxe light with Compact
Fluorescents. It comes with 2- 24", 10k, 65 watt bulbs and 2-24"
actinics (which I assume are 65watt as well), for a total of 230 watts
of lighting.
I've been told this isn't enough for sps.
<Would be borderline for most light loving SPS corals, but there are a
few species this lighting could support. Most etailers will list light
requirements for species of corals they sell. In your case, based on the
depth of your tank, corals requiring "moderate" light should survive in
your system.>
I've taken LUX readings with the CF (don't have a par meter yet). Just
below the water surface it's 5800 LUX , and my sandbed is at 1300 LUX. I
converted LUX to PAR (but I haven't found any listing for the compact
florescent coefficient to use so this is a guess) and get something like
116 at top and 26 at the bottom.
<Photosynthetically Active Radiation, often abbreviated PAR, designates
the spectral range of solar light from 400 to 700 nanometers that
photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of
photosynthesis.
This spectral region corresponds more or less with the range of light
visible to the human eye. Since we use lamps of the proper Kelvin
temperature, I would be more interested in LUX values rather than PAR
values for our purposes. I might add not to confuse lumens with Lux.
Lumens is the total amount of light that a lamp is capable of
generating, usually available on either the lighting package or from the
manufacturer's data sheets. There are two values usually quoted for
fluorescent tubes: initial lumens and design lumens. Initial lumens
describe how much light it produces when first turned on. Design lumens
describe how much light it will produce for a much longer term. After an
initial 20 percent drop in brightness, the light output will slowly
decrease over the lifetime of the tube. Lux is a unit of measure equal
to lumens per square meter or, a measure of the actual intensity of the
light falling over a specified area.
Because Lux depends on how the light gets from the bulb to the area, it
can not be specified by the manufacturer, but must be measured by the
aquarist.>
I need to bump my lighting in the tank. I want to add a single strip T5
HO fixture. This housing will be 3 inches wide, which is all the real
estate I have left to sit a light on top of the tank. I estimate this
new light will cost me around $140.
So here's the problem.
I can't figure how much more PAR this will add to the tank, and
therefore whether it's worth it. I don't want to waste money by adding a
light that really won't be felt, but I don't have the ready cash
available to buy a whole new lighting system. I don't understand how to
judge watts to PAR <Watts has nothing to do with PAR. The watt is used
to specify the rate at which electrical energy is dissipated, or the
rate at which electromagnetic energy is radiated, absorbed, or
dissipated.>
between Compaq's and T5s and MH. Any help?
<If keeping SPS corals is your goal, I would wait till you have enough
cash
to replace the unit with a twin 150 watt HQI lighting system. Adding an
additional T5 lamp for 140 bucks would not be a good investment.>
From what I've read, the new T5 HO's are just as good as MH's these
days.
Is this true?
<Yes and no, will depend on the depth of tank and number of lamps used.
In shallow tanks such as yours, the T5 HO is a good way to go. I
personally like the look of metal halide lighting.>
If so, how do you judge how many bulbs you need? As I stated my tank is
48" long, 24" tall and 13" deep.
And lastly how do Compaq's compare to T5 HOs straight up?
<The T5's, in my opinion produce a larger light distribution pattern and
produce more lumens watt for watt.>
Are 2, 24" 65watt 10k Compaq's equal to 1-48" T5 HO?
<No, we are comparing 130 watts to 54 watts.>
Are the CFs 1/2 as strong as the T5 HO?
<I don't believe to that margin, again, watt for watt.>
Are compacts equal to the older T5s?
<Likely close, but the T5's have an edge on efficiency.>
These are the kind of facts I could use right now.
<I suggest you read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi :)Hope all is well with you folks :))
<Still kickin'>
My tank specs
52"x30"x18" (LxHxW)
Substrate is 4"-5" DSB so the actual depth of the tank would be 23"-24".
Further, the water column is only 21" since the top 3" is occupied by
the brace.
Photosynthetic life I look to sustain (some already existing in the
tank)
* Leather coral
* Zoanthids
* Mushrooms
* Palythoa
* Moon/Pineapple coral
* Xenia
* Bubble coral
* Turbinaria
* Fungia (disc corals)
* Montipora
T5 seems to be quiet popular with reefers.
I was wondering if replacing my current 2x150W MH with 4x54W T5 is a
good idea.
<I would not, you are only reducing the wattage by 84 watts, and trading
off excellent
lighting for corals/clams and just to save a few watts, isn't worth the
change, yet alone the cost of
the new lighting at $350.00 a pop plus shipping. Would be a long time
before you would recover the
savings on your utility bill to make up the cost of the new lighting.>
The fixture I had in mind is the Giesemann Razor.
http://www.reefdepot.com.sg/AddProduct.asp?ProdID=1070
I would be using 2 of these and a line of high power LEDs (DIY) in
between both Razor units to get a bit of shimmer lines :)
I need to change my existing light setup due to HEAT. Room reads 40
degrees
C with existing 2 MH and the chiller.
This is causing a vicious circle where the chiller runs more to reduce
the temperature and throws more heat in the air and back again. All this
totals to higher electricity bills.
<Are you running cooling fans in your hood? Is necessary and will help
much in keeping the tank
temperature down and reducing cycling of the chiller along with adding
more life to the lamps.>
The whole point of thinking of T5 was because it will not generate heat
more than standard NO tubes. Am I correct in this assumption or am I way
off?
<Watts produce heat, no other way to look at it. The T5 platform just
provides more
lumens per watt, but they are still throwing off 54 watts of heat per
lamp.>
I plan to screw the Razors to the top of my hood and put regular 8mm
glass below them.
The distance between the bulbs and the 8mm glass would be half an inch.
The glass would be left open in the ends (short sides) to allow airflow.
Each of the Razor units would have independent 8mm glass panes below so
I can service them independently.
End result, the bulbs would be 4"-5" above the water column. Would this
be ok considering the above livestock?
<It likely would be fine. The most light loving corals may have to be
placed at the mid level of the tank.>
Do I really need to have cooling fans with the Razor units (since they
are in a closed hood)?
If I need cooling fans, which option would you suggest?
* 6 CPU fans above
* 4 CPU fans above pulling OUT air and 2 CPU fans (one on either side)
PUSHING in air.
* 2 extractor fans "http://www.cataindia.com/Fan-X-Mart-Matic.php"
model X-MART MATIC 10. I would hook these up to a thermostat so they
would run only when the temperature would get to 40 degrees C.
These are high powered ones that are rated [ by the company :) ] each to
ventilate a 10x10 room.
The fans would be mounted on top of the hood in the middle such that
they pull air from the enclosed tubes which would get air flowing
through the open side.
Please can you have a look and let me know what you think.
<Ah, this tells me you are running no cooling fans, not good, and is not
helping your problem. If it were me, I'd go with two Ice Cap fans and
mount so the air is blowing in, providing your canopy has an open back,
and most do. The Ice Cap fans come with a temperature sensor that
regulates the speed of the fan in proportion to the heat it senses. Use
them myself and they are virtually silent. See here.
http://www.icecapinc.com/01/fans.htm
As to your lighting idea, I think your money would be better spent
investing in two Ice Cap Electronic Ballasts, and along with the fans,
would be much less than the cost of the T5 system you are contemplating,
and should save you some money on your utility bill. The maximum current
required for this ballast to drive a 175 watt MH lamp is 1.56 amps. They
will also extend your lamp life, and the lamps tend to run a little
cooler with electronic ballasts. The ballast can be found at the above
link.>
Cheers
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith
Re T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi James
Thanks for the pronto response :)
<You're welcome.>
I am running two 6 inch exhaust fans in the current setup.
They are both pulling air out.
The hood is not open from behind.
<Are you also drawing air in from the sides of the hood? You need to be
able to draw air into the hood while exhausting warm air out. Simply
said, the air in
the hood needs to be exchanged.>
The problem is where I live!!
The ambient temperature is 41 degrees C in the day and 35 at night.
This is summer so will drop in 2 months but only by 5 degrees
respectively.
<Where do you live, in Arizona or the Gobi Desert.>
When the MH are on they heat the water and the chiller needs to cool the
water and thus adds to the heat.
<I do understand.>
One can't even remain in the room to enjoy the tank :(
<Unless one wants a sauna bath.>
That is the reason why I wanted to get out of MH.
Are you saying T5 will be no different?
<Oh, there will be some difference, but I'm thinking not enough to
warrant the expense. Have you considered an energy efficient air
conditioner for that room?
Even keeping at 32C would be much better than 40C.>
At present I have the MH 3-4 inches above water level in a wooden
canopy/ tank cover.
There are 2 exhaust fans 6" each running when the MH come on.
They are attached near the MH and the canopy top is cut to fit them.
Basically, the hole is sized to slip the fans through and they vent the
air pulled.
Standard setup.
My question is, will any kind of ventilation to push air out of the room
help since the ambient temperature is so high ?
<Exhausting the air to the outside is an idea running through my mind,
but I think it might be difficult to make it a decent looking set-up
unless aesthetics are not a problem in this room. I'm thinking along the
lines of a clothes dryer set-up. I guess if you flex hosed it from the
back of the canopy down and to the outside would be a fairly clean
looking install.>
Please help. I can buy one light setup and want it to work.
Staying away from clams or acropora is not a problem.
Just need a solution for the heat.
<The T5 system will help, but I'm wondering how much of an effect losing
+/- 90 watts would be. I'm hoping my mentor/protégé will chime in here
as I am not comfortable telling someone to go out and spend near $800.00
on lighting without being sure this is going to be a solution or even a
drastic
improvement to your heat problem. The least expensive fix would be
venting the warm air to the outside. That I feel would help you very
much.>
Cheers
<And to you my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith
Re T5 or MH 4/4/09
Reef Lighting
Hi
Sorry I missed one more question
Why do people say T5 runs cool??
<Maybe they mean the term like LL Cool J:)
Likely because it does put out more light per watt than NO/HO or VHO
lamps.
I'm going to contact Steven Pro at Ice Cap lighting. A while back I was
attending a Marine Conference in Detroit and was talking to Steve about
the T5 system and he did make a comparison as to how many T5 lamps would
be needed to obtain the same light output as a 175MH, but do you think I
can remember, nope. I will send this along to him and get his input.
Wait a minute, would be much better turn around time if you did this.
Contact Steve here.
stevenpro@icecapinc.com>
Cheers
<Ditto my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith
Re T5 or MH 4/5/09
Reef Lighting
Hi James
<Hello Ranjith>
The current MH needs to be properly setup anyways, as I have to buy the
pendants and change my copper ballasts anyways.
<OK>
The bulbs I use are 20 dollar bulbs I found at the hardware store (lucky
find) they don't last more than 8 to 9 months.
Thus I don't mind spending a bit (500 dollars max) now.
However, want to spend it on the RIGHT hardware :)
Yes I plan the exhaust fan approach.
Nothing cleverly DIY but getting the electrical guys to cut my window a
bit and setup the exhaust.
However, will this really help is what I wonder.
<It will help in keeping the tank temperature down, but obviously, your
chiller is still going to be needed.>
Reason is that due to a heat wave, the temperature outside the house is
40+.
<Yikes, James, make a note never to visit Ranjith unless he has plenty
of ice cold beer..>
So whatever air comes in will be not much cooler than that being vented.
<Bingo, but the hot air in the hood will always be vented out thus
helping to keep the tank temperature down and thereby keeping the
chiller from cycling as often as it does now.>
As an option, I am looking at LED lights. I came across a LED torch that
runs off three 1.5v batteries. This has an amazing throw of 20 to 40
feet. Basically able to have a clear spot on the next building wall 30
feet away.
I think the lenses they use are the key.
<Am thinking so. I use LED flashlights and am amazed at the intensity
they produce.>
Am I being dumb here?
<Don't know yet.>
They retail for half a dollar a piece.
I tested this on my Zoanthids and saw 70% polyp extension as I would
with my MH.
If I got enough (100) of them wired close together AND supplemented with
one razor unit, do you think I would even come out even ?
<Bottom line is knowing what the Kelvin temperature of the LED's are
along with lumens intensity measured at your water depth.>
That way I need to spend 50 dollars for the LED light and 200 dollars
for the razor.
I asked one electrician to wire a sample of small size to test it.
What experiment would you suggest to verify the effectiveness of this?
<If the Kelvin temperature was proper...between 6500 and 20,000, the
next step would be to find an electrician with a LUX meter with a
waterproof sensor to measure the light intensity of this rig, at the
bottom of the aquarium. Even if it is small in size, placing the sensor
directly under it would give you some idea whether this would even be
feasible.
PFO Solaris markets LED fixtures designed for reef aquariums that are
powered by LED lights .
They have been getting good reviews lately, but are rather expensive.
I'm thinking they are in demand for people in climates like yours, as
two sites I visited were out of stock or backordered on these fixtures.
Your last option would be to have a fish only system with non light
loving invertebrates, and go with using the DIY LED's.
I cannot offer you any more options. Based on your climate, there will
be an expense keeping the temperature down, now it's time for you to
choose the route you want to go. You may want to read a review of the
Solaris system here.
http://www.miniaturereef.com/Solaris%20H4.html>
Cheers
<Ditto my friend. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith
"Moderate" lighting??? Also, an Anthias question
for you... – 03/27/09
Hey there, Crew!
<<Hiya Crystal!>>
So I've driven myself crazy with reading through the lighting FAQs and the
low-moderate light corals FAQs.
<<Have you now>>
I am still doubting myself that I have the "right" amount of light that I need.
<<Oh?>>
I have a 75 gallon Tenecor with approximately (guessing) 100 lbs. of live rock,
live sand, skimmer in live rock filled sump, yadda, yadda, yadda. It's been up and
running for five years with minimal stocking (have a love for tiny fish like
gobies and blennies) so it's all sorts of stable and a very happy place to be a
fish.
<<Cool>>
Here's the lighting question that I'd like an answer to -- even if it's only a
personal opinion with no specifics (as I've learned that most "facts" of this
addictive hobby are):
<<Indeed>>
One 96W Actinic PC
One 96W 50/50 PC
One 96W 10K PC....all over a 20" tall tank.....would you call this "low" or
"moderate" lighting?
<<Hmm… Considering that two-thirds of the bulbs are Actinic and 50/50, I think
this is in the bottom-half of the “moderate” scale (make sense?) and likely
ideal for many of the Corallimorpharians and other organisms with similar
lighting requirements>>
As in I can feel comfy making a home for mushrooms (especially Ricordea), zoos,
and MAYBE even some LPS's that state "moderate" as the lighting needs?
<<Ah, yes… Corallimorphs (as stated) and Zoanthids (though some Ricordea and
Zoanthid species also do well/color up nicely under more intense lighting)
should do well…and for suitable “LPS” specimens I would look to the genus
Plerogyra (Bubble Corals) and some of the “Red Colored” open brain species (red
pigmented specimens seem to do better/have lower light requirements than green
pigmented specimens)>>
Now for the Anthias question. Since my love of gobies and blennies and a Jawfish,
oh my, has left me with a tank that does not have a whole lot of action from
across the room.
<<Mmm, indeed… Sounds like a tank that spends most of its time watching “you”
[grin]>>
I've had my eye on adding an Anthias. GORGEOUS!
<<Agreed, though these fishes pose certain obstacles. Many species are difficult
to feed, most all are easily intimidated by other fish, some species “just don’t
do well” in captivity…and…being “haremic” in nature, most species require others
of their kind for their long-term physical and psychological wellbeing…which
makes the size of your tank a limiting factor here as well>>
Understand that they can be shy at first but eventually will swim around once
they are comfy.
<<This is not a certainty…depending much on species selection and environment>>
And I think the fish I have are lovers, not fighters.
<<Many are relatively peaceful toward other fishes…but not when it comes to
conspecifics. These fishes all utilize aggression to maintain their sense of
“order” among the social group>>
The particular Anthias I'm interested in and can't seem to find all that much
info/opinions about is the Ignitus Anthias (Pseudanthias Ignitus) or Flame
Anthias.
<<Mmm, yes…has not been often seen in the West I think (and thus not
documented), though it seems to be turning up more lately>>
Both the male and the female are awesome in coloring and I'd only be looking to
get a bachelor or bachelorette. What, if any, opinions do you personally have
about this fish?
<<From the little I have read/know, it seems this Anthiine species “may” be on
par with Pseudanthias bartlettorum (Bartlett’s Anthias…which by the way, would
make for a good alternative species here) re hardiness, ease of feeding,
suitability to captive care… I also think this fish will fare much better in a
group than as a single specimen. Do consider a trio (male and two
females)…though if your tank is as lightly stocked as it sounds, four females
and one male of this small Anthiine species might prove to be a better numbers>>
Hardy, shy, easy to feed, likes long walks on the beach and getting caught in
the rain -- oops, not that one.
<<Hee-hee!>>
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
<<You have' em>>
As always, thanks so much for any and all anecdotes and I look forward to
hearing from you...
-Crystal
<<A pleasure to share… Eric Russell>>
Opinions on lighting. Reef, t-5 lamp sel., colour 02/23/2009
Hi crew, <Hi Marc, Mich with you tonight.> Looking for a quick
second opinion. I have a 75 gallon tank with LPSs and assorted soft
coral. <Ahh! Sounds nice! I like seeing tanks that aren't dominated
by SPS's.> I have 220 watts of t-5 lighting, right now I have one
10k, two 18k and one 6500 bulb. I'm looking at changing the bulbs, do
you think the combination I have now, or 3 6500 and one actinic bulb
would have more useful light for my corals? <I would not go with
3 6500 unless you are planning on doing a planted marine tank.> Or
the same, <The same is fine, but if it was mine, I would go with at
least 2 and perhaps 3 of the 10k. The lighting is more full spectrum and
you will get better growth on your corals. I would not do the 6500
unless you have an interest in growing sea grasses or ornamental algae,
and if you do, by all means go for it!> just preference? <Of
course your own personal aesthetic plays a part as well. But I say more
10k!> Thanks again, <Welcome!> Marc <Mich>
Reef Lighting, incl. fluor. lamp sel. 2/19/09 Dear WWM
Crew, <Rusty> I having trouble determining if the fixture I have
will work for my reef tank. I plan to get a 6'x2'x2' 180 gal aquarium
that I will be making into a reef tank containing moderate light corals.
The light fixture I have is a 72" T-5 HO fixture with 8x80watt bulbs.
The bulbs are the Giesemann brand and I have four blue actinic and four
50/50 daylight bulbs. I recently bought a LUX meter to test the
intensity of my lamp. I placed the meter on the floor and held my lamp 2
ft. above the sensor and I only got a rating of 3,200 LUX. I fear this
may be too low since natural sunlight produces about 10,000 to 20,000
LUX and even the low to moderate light corals have a saturation rate of
5,000 to 6,000 LUX. Are there any other 60" T-5 bulbs that have a
higher output than the brand I mentioned. <Not that I'm aware of, but
your lamp configuration is what is giving you low LUX values, four
actinics and four 50/50's aren't going to do it. You can greatly
increase the LUX value by going with 10K 80 watt lamps. If it were me,
I'd go with seven 10K's and one actinic.> I know this sounds like a
stupid question, but do VHO bulbs have a much higher output than T-5
bulbs in terms of intensity? <T5's boast the highest lumens per watt
output of any fluorescent lamp on the market. Keep in mind though,
"per watt". Six foot VHO lamps are 160 watts versus the 80 watt T5 lamp.
Your fixture would be the equivalent of a four lamp VHO fixture in terms
of intensity with all lamps being equal in Kelvin temperature.> Would
I need a chiller if I use VHO's <Would depend on where you live, the
temperature you maintain in your home, central air, etc.> or could I
just turn my heater very low? <How would you maintain water
temperature when the lamps are off during the nighttime hours? For
keeping moderate light loving corals, the eight lamp fixture you have is
fine. You just need to reconfigure the lamps. James (Salty Dog)> <<In
other words... heaters are thermostatic... they won't run if the water
is warmer than what they're set at. RMF>> Re: Reef
Lighting 2/20/09 The only T-5 bulbs that I can find in a 60"
are 60% actinic/40% white, 11,000K bulbs, and 6,000K sun bulbs, will
these work if I do a 7 of these to one actinic configuration? <Sure,
go with the 11K lamps. James (Salty Dog)> Lighting For My
Zero Edge Aquarium 2/18/09 Reef Lighting I've been
working on my Zero Edge aquarium for over a year. The cabinet arrived
last week, so now I need advice on lighting. <Is ironic, as I've
been looking at their products on the web just minutes ago. Look pretty
pricey but it appears the quality is there.> The size of the tank
is 36" x 29" x 13.25" in depth. I am looking for a sleek looking light.
I have been studying the Elos Planet II. I have been testing lights
and it seems that a 24 inch metal halide pendant with T5 gives me the
coverage. A 36" seems to light up my entire living room.! <Is there
one lamp in the pendant?> I will have both soft and hard corals. With
the tank being 13.25 inches in depth, will a 150w 14k pendant be enough?
<OK, one lamp.> Someone suggested a 250w 14k, but would that be too
much with the tank being shallow? I will be hanging the light from a
bracket attached to the cabinet. Is 8-10 inches above the water be high
enough? <Geez Paul, if it were me, I'd go with the 250 or the
aforementioned Elos Planet II. Tridacnids and SPS will love it, and it
will not be overkill. I happened to come across a chap who has an Elos
Planet II for sale for $800.00 on one of the forums. Might want to take
a look here. Seems like a good buy versus a new one at 1300.00.
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/drygoods-sale-trade/42908-elos-planet-ii-sale.html
> Thank you, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Paul
Re: Lighting For My Zero Edge Aquarium 2/20/09 Reef
Lighting Thank you crew (James) for your information, I
still have a few questions. <You're welcome.> Since it has taken
me over a year for my decision making on the tank and cabinet, I want to
make sure the lighting is correct. <Understood.> I purchased a 36"
Aquaticlife 1x150 14kHID with 3X39 watt 420/460 nm T5 HO light fixture.
When I hung the fixture from the brackets, it took away from the look of
the overall tank. It was not sleek enough. I hung it 6 inches from
the top of the tank. When I turned it on the wash from the lighting lit
up the entire room. <Difficult to avoid with that type of set up.>
The tank is located in the living/family room. I experimented with the
light and cut 4 pieces of black cardboard and covered the ends of the
T5's which made it into a 24" light. The wash was so much less. If I
go with the Planet II 24" 250w 14k with the T5's, will the 250w make it
too bright? Is there a big difference between a 150w and 250w 14k
light in brightness? <Yes, a 100 watt difference. Is this fixture
available with just the 250 watt halide?> Because of the tank being
only 13.5 inches deep, I will have a 1-2 inch sand depth. With 11.5
inches starting my rock formation, will it be too much light? <I
don't think so. I used a 150 watt HQI on a 29 gallon tank and I didn't
think it was too bright or too much light.> I plan to have the Acros
centered at the top of the aquarium, the Acros will be 8 inches from the
light. The softer corals will be placed lower in a stepped down look
from the center of the tank. I am concerned with 1) coral bleaching from
too much light (250w) <Bleaching generally occurs when corals do not
get enough light, they expel their Zooanthellae.> because of the
shallowness of the tank. 2) Having a major glare from too much light. Do
you think the Elos Planet II 150w 14k with 4 T5's is plenty of light, or
will I be better off with the Elos Planet II 250w 14k with 4 T5's
lighting fixture? I just want to make the most informed decision.
<Yes, when you are about to spend quite a few hard earned dollars on a
light fixture, you want it to be right. For Acros, Monti's, clams, the
250 is not going to be too much light and for that matter, not too much
for the softies being the light will be well above the water surface. I
have visited a shop here in town that has a 450 gallon reef set up. He
is lighting it with four, 400 watt halides with actinics, and he has
softies galore just looking great. I have never saw mushroom anemones
that large. To give you an example, a 100 watt metal halide has the
same light intensity as three 48" T8 HO's. Metal halide lamps will
average 65-115 lumens per watt. Now, if we multiply say 90 lumens by
250, we have 22,500 lumens, much less than direct sunlight which is a
minimum of 32,000. The lamp lumens will vary depending on the Kelvin
temperature of the lamp. For clarity's sake, the difference between
the Lux and the lumen is that the Lux takes into account the area over
which the luminous flux is spread. A flux of 1,000 lumens,
concentrated into an area of one square meter, lights up that square
meter with an luminance of 1,000 Lux. However, the same 1,000 lumens,
spread out over ten square metres, produces a dimmer luminance of only
100 Lux. The 150 watt fixture may be enough, but considering it will be
hanging 8" above the water surface, the intensity/lumens will drop
some.> Have you had any pros or cons on the Elos Planet II light
fixtures? <I'm not familiar with them but I've heard no negatives.>
The reason Im studying the Elos fixture is because of its sleek looks.
<Yes, very nice looking and appears to be a quality fixture.> Thanks
for all of your information. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Paul 2/18/2009 Lighting - Little Information, Reading
Sorry to bother you. I can't seem to figure out this lighting stuff.
Will this light be sufficient in a tank 50cm deep and supportive of live
rock, frog spawn, mushrooms, and an anemone: Current USA 48" Nova
extreme T5 fixture 2x54w 10k/460nm? If so what bulbs should I use and
will this work with canopy, or get to hot? Thanks for your help. <Hi, My
immediate thought on reading your question is no, that is not an
adequate amount of light to keep the invertebrates that you mentioned.
However, to best answer your question I am going to need more
information. What kind of Anemone? How much live rock? How large is
your tank? What kind of filtration would you be using? All of those
facts are important, as even with correct lighting, if your filtration
system is inadequate, your animals will die. I would suggest that you
start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm If you open
that link, and look at the top of the page, you will see links to 45
different pages written about marine system lighting. I'm sure that the
answers you seek will be found there. Lastly, please check your spelling
and grammar before sending an inquiry. MikeV> Re: Lighting
Question, MH... 55 gal., SW, waste heat concern
I'm so very sorry to bother you again, but I have run across more
conflicting info in the FAQ's and have another question. <No
worries, Matt. This is why we're here.> Since my tank is a standard
55gal, would metal halide lighting be too hot and burn everything up? I
have seen that it is recommended not to use MH lighting on a 55gal tank,
but have also seem recommendations to use 2 150 watt MH pendants above
this same setup. All of this conflicting info is starting to get
confusing to me. Any input would be greatly appreciated. If the 2
pendants would be fine, how far above the tank should I keep them to
minimize evaporation and bleaching of my corals? <First, let me
preface this by reminding you that every set up is different. So, just
because someone had heat issues with MH lighting over a 55gal that does
not mean your set up will as well. Whether your tank will overheat
depends on several factors. First, what is the highest temperature your
tank has reached with your current lighting method? If it is in the
upper levels of the acceptable range, then you should consider using
more efficient equipment (such as cooler running return pumps or
circulation powerheads) and/or increase cooling (by adding a chiller or
fans) before upgrading to MH. Second, not all MH setups are the same as
some are terribly inefficient. Consider going with a proper MH set up
with a quality electronic ballast like the Icecap 150W ballast and bulb
like the Phoenix 14k to maximize efficiency. Review this site for more
information on efficiency: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting.
For reference, I live in Southern California where ambient temperatures
can be quite high in the summer and I am able to hang a 150W MH set up
12" over my 24 gallon Nano Cube. I use a fan to blow cool air over the
water surface to increase evaporative cooling and water temperature is
table at 80-81 degrees even on the hottest days.> Thanks again
Matt <You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.> Lighting
Question - please help, my corals HATE me!! Multiple Problems In Reef
Tank 2/9/09 This is my first post here, although I read your
forums almost daily. I have benefited greatly from the advice given
here, although you wouldn't know it by looking at my very sad corals
right now. My question is in regards to MH lighting and I think I
have too much. I would like to know if I do in fact have too much, and
what can be done to remedy this with my current setup. I am guessing I
should switch to lower intensity bulbs, or can I just reduce my
photoperiod? Here is what is going on - I have a 55 gallon setup with
2 MH bulbs, 250W each and 10K. I also have 2 actinics, 96W and 36 inch
each. These are enclosed in a canopy hood. I obviously had a heat
problem, so in addition to fans I bought a chiller. Heat seems to be
managed ok. My photoperiod is only 5 hours/day currently. The bulbs sit
approx. 8- 9 inches above where my first layer of LR starts. I do think
my 55g is a little deeper than most - it is approx. 20 inches deep.
<The MH lamps will provide plenty of light, I'd stop using the
fluorescent lamps, cut down on heat/energy.> My main problem is
algae. My soft corals seemed to be doing very well, but any hard corals
that I tried succumbed to being over taken by algae. I have hair algae
to be exact. In doing some research I learned that phosphates were
likely the cause (were ranging around 0.2 - 0.3ppm). I bought a
phosphate reactor and over the course of 3 weeks have gotten these down
to non-detected. Still I have hair algae, although not as bad. My MH
bulbs were 14 months old and my actinics were 6 months old, so I changed
all 4 of them out (thinking bad bulbs were causing the algae). This is
when my corals really started to go south. I acclimated too fast for one
thing. I kept them on for one hour a day, and increased by an additional
hour each day or two. <I don't think the acclimation was too fast.>
My red Scolymia coral is bleaching, my bubble coral seems to be
screaming at me (bubbles are deflating), my button polyp looks like he
is receding, and my green open brain used to be gorgeous and now looks
shrunk. The only 2 corals I have which look gorgeous are my finger
leather and colt coral. I moved my red Scolymia into a shaded area
at the bottom of the tank (question about him - when he started
bleaching, I noticed inside his "mouth" opening that you can see white
hard looking stuff. What is this? Is there any hope for him?). Also
my fire coral, which I thought took higher lighting, yesterday looked
very pale. Please help me to rectify this situation! Reduce my
photoperiod? Switch to lower bulbs? Something entirely else? Here is
my stocking list and tank parameters. I already know that you are going
to say that I have way too many fish and this is causing my algae
problems also. I agree, they were just so beautiful I couldn't stop
buying them!! Should I trade back one or two or three? Truthfully, I
thought I was compensating ok for them with the protein skimmer and
phosphate reactor. Also, I feed every other day. <There is more to
keeping corals than just providing light. What are your calcium,
magnesium, nitrate, and pH levels?> Stocking list 1 Yellow Tang, 1
Hippo Tang, 1 Powder Blue Tang, 1 Coral Beauty, 1 Flamehawk, 1 Lawnmower
Blenny, 1 Ocellaris clown Bubble Tip Anemone, Elegance Coral, button
polyp, Fire Coral, Colt Coral, leather coral, red Scolymia, bubble
coral, green tooth coral, green (with some red) open brain, crocea clam,
orange ball sponge, yellow Acropora, and a red vase coral frag.
<YIKES! Your tank is too small for these tangs and the BTA does not
belong in this tank, they can/will move and sting corals in the process
along with risking the fish to their sting. The BTA needs to go.> I
have approx. 100 pounds of LR, various clean up crew snails and crabs,
and mushrooms growing on my LR. I have a protein skimmer (AquaC), UV
sterilizer, chiller, phosphate reactor, and I filter with a sump (with
bioballs.....ack!). I use carbon sporadically. Water changes are weekly
with RO water and automatic top-off is RO water buffered with reef
calcium and reef buffer. I do not test for, <Do not test for? How do
you know if you have the proper levels of calcium and magnesium which
are both important and necessary for coral growth.> or add, any trace
elements except what is present in my reef calcium (I think strontium
and magnesium) Tank parameters (measured yesterday) temp hangs
around 75.8 - 76.1 at night and climbs to 78 - 79 with halides on SG
= 1.025 pH = 8.28 (taken 1.5 hours after lights on, with a pH meter)
calcium = 420 ppm dKH = 10 NO3 = 20 ppm <Too high here, likely
the cause of your algae problem.> PO4 = 0 - .05 ppm (hard to tell
exactly with this test kit) Alk = 3.0 mEq/L <This is the same as
dKH, no need to test for both. Meq/l times 2.8 will give you the dKH.>
Any suggestions at all that you have for my tank I would greatly
appreciate, even if it means getting rid of some fish and my bioballs.
<Yes, your fish stocking level is too high and likely is why nitrate
levels are high. Do the tangs a favor and find are larger home for them,
will not last long in this system, especially the Powder Blue. Do read
here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tangs,.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Lighting (Too Much?) 1/30/09 I've read and been told
that 2 175 watt metal halides would work for my 55 gallon reef tank.
<<Okay>> I've found a 48" fixture on eBay, but the bulbs that come
with it are 250's. Would this be too much light intensity? Tank is 18"
deep. Thanks, Pat <<Speaking at a very high level with
virtually no information about your system or its occupants…no, this is
not too much light versus the 175w system (and raising the fixture can
lessen intensity, if necessary)…though it is probably more than you
“need.” EricR>> Lighting - Not Enough - Too Much 1/13/09
I read everything I can find on the hobby. I have "The Conscientious
Marine Aquarist", "The Reef Aquarium, Vol. 3", Matthew Wittenrich
"Breeder's Guide to Marine Aquarium Fish", and Joyce Wilkerson's book on
Clownfish and have read them cover to cover numerous times. <Great,
all of us can always learn more!> I have also read your site
regularly, which is an awesome service to the hobby. <Thank you!>
Still I can't seem to get a grasp on the lighting situation with all of
the combinations, NO, HO, VHO, PC fluorescents, Metal Halide, new
technology, etc. I want the best combination, spectrum, and brightness
to keep my livestock happy and healthy and still be able to afford my
electric bill. Background: I have a 1 year-old 29G with a mated pair
of Ocellaris Clowns, a 7-month 29G with a mated pair of Australian Black
Ocellaris Clowns, and my Christmas present from my wonderful wife, a new
75G which will be a reef tank. My in the near future plan is to build an
approx. 550+G (120"x36"x30") built-in wall reef tank in my living room.
<Quite a nice jump in size!> My question pertains to the current reef
tank and future reef tank. There seems to be conflicting opinions from
two of my most valuable sources, Mr. Fenner's book and Sprung/Delbeek's
book on spectrum. Mr. Fenner suggests full spectrum fluorescents in the
6500K color temperature range to be acceptable and Sprung/Delbeek
suggest more light in the blue range (10,000K+) for proper Zooxanthellae
photosynthesis in corals and other invertebrates. Which is best?
<Well, the short answer is what you like best. The lower K bulbs give
what your corals actually need while the trend of the last few years is
to go to a bluer bulb for the look. The 10000K bulb is generally
considered the best compromise between the two. Actinic supplementation
will give the bluer look that many seek.> <<Oh, and my incept date
for this opinion is some thirty years old... pre-dates MH use in the
hobby interest. RMF>> My 75G has hood equipped with two fans that I
robbed from a broken computer one blowing air into the hood and one
sucking air out of the hood. Fans are on timer and only come on when
lights are on. I have a 18G refugium, separate 18G sump with DIY
Kalkwasser container dripping at the same rate as evaporation (about 1
1/2 gallons per day, installed 2 days ago), approx. 3" sand bed, 100 lbs
live rock (purchased dry rock and placed it in my other aquariums to
seed). I have (2) Hydor Koralia 3's on each end of the tank facing each
other. Quiet One 3000 main pump (750Gph rated, about 450-500 Gph after
head pressure calculated). The output of the main pump feeds a small
amount of water to a DIY Algal Turf Scrubber above the refugium and the
remainder is branched into two output that are aimed directly into the
flow of the two Hydor Koralias to crate a chaotic flow. <Sounds
nice.> The current randomly changes throughout the tank. Is this
adequate water flow for SPS corals? <Yes, but you certainly could
swap the 3s for the 4s.> I have (2) Koralia 4's not being used.
Livestock is currently two very small Gold-Stripe Maroon Clowns that I
hope will pair, a Bubble Tip Anemone, a Bubble Coral, small Yellow
Toadstool Leather, and a Purple Tip Acropora. <A dangerous mix. Do
search WWM re allelopathic interaction.> My wife has me on a one
aquarium purchase per month allowance (better than nothing), so will add
more coral slowly, mostly SPS and LPS. <Do check re compatibility
with what you have.> Water parameters (Tank has completely cycled):
Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, PH 8.2, Calcium 340 ppm, Alk 10 dKH.
Trying to get calcium up a little. Temp 79.4 at night 79.8 during
day. Back to the lighting question, I have a DIY lighting arrangement
that I want to make sure is going to be enough. I have (8) T8 bulbs,
trying to split the difference between full spectrum and blue light I
went with (3) 6500K full spectrum, (3) 10,000K and (2) Actinic bulbs.
All are overdriven 2x, I am aware that this will shorten bulb life, but
I wanted to make sure I had adequate light. Is this enough lighting for
SPS corals AND to maintain bright color. <Yes, the lighting is
fine.> Most of the sellers online say that their SPS corals need
Metal Halide lighting to maintain their color. Is this true or can it be
accomplished with fluorescents? <The T5 bulbs can do the same thing
as MH here, it is all in the application. Yours is fine.> I purchased
the Acropora before I had the 75G and placed it in one of my 29G about 4
inches below two T5�s (One 6500k and one Actinic.) It turned brown after
a few weeks. I moved it to the 75G about 12 inches below the surface
under the 8 T8�s and it has recovered about half of the purple color and
seems to gain more purple everyday. Is this a good indicator that I have
enough light or is it something else? <The lighting spectrum and
intensity can affect color, it is not necessarily an indication of
health either way.> One last thing: What do you think about the
Fluorex lights available at Home Depot? <I love them, even used to
sell them before subsidies here in Ca made them illegal to resale
specifically for our purpose.> Lights of America website says their
65W is 6500K full spectrum 500W equivalent and 6825 Lumens. And they
have a 100W 6500K, 1000W equivalent that produces 10,500 Lumens. Could
these be a more cost effective alternative to Metal Halide? <They
indeed can be if you do not mind the yellow look. I have used these for
refugium lights and freshwater planted tanks. My big issue with these
lights it the cost of replacement bulbs. It is cheaper to buy a whole
new fixture! Many of the Costco's do carry these off and on too, even
cheaper.> I would like to see these bulbs available in higher color
temperature. <Me too!> And how can you figure watts/gallon
correctly if all of the different technologies have different
lumens/watts. <You can’t, that is why WPG stinks.> I don't see
how comparing watts/gallon is comparing apples to apples across
different technologies. Is there some easier way to be sure you have
proper lighting on a reef aquarium? <Comparisons to systems that
work, experience.> Thank you for all that you do and sorry for the
long email. This problem has been bugging me for a year now and I value
your opinion. Matt <No problem Matt. I do hope this “sheds some
light” on the subject for you. Scott V.> Lighting
Cnidarians, 75 gal., T 5s 1/7/09
Hi crew, <Hi Marc, Minh at your service.> Real quick one. Just
would like your opinion. I have 220 watts of t5 lighting on a 75 gallon
tank. One actinic bulb, two 18k bulbs, and one 10k bulb. Do you think
this would be enough lighting for mushrooms, and leather corals?
Cauliflower, Finger, and Toadstool leathers. Also do you think it would
be sufficient for some LPS, mostly would like to add a Frogspawn, Torch
or Hammer coral. <Although there are many varieties of T5 lighting
each with different performance capabilities based on the brand of bulb,
type of ballast and reflectors used, the average T5 set up should be
more than adequate for the corals you want to keep. To find out
performance data on your particular set up, you can visit this excellent
lighting information page: http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com.>
Thanks again, Marc <You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>
Reef Lighting/Selection 1/5/09 Looking to by bulb combo. For
a 4ft 23inch deep tank. Looking to do fish and soft corals. Looking at
the TEK 6 bulb light fixture. What is the best setup? Choice of
Giesemann and ATI. Someone said 3 ATI blue plus and 3 Giesemann aqua
blu. Or add 1 UVL AquaSun and take out a Giesemann. Want bulbs for
growth and light without it being too blue. <Personally I think the
fixtures you mention are pretty pricey. Take a look at the Current 8
bulb fixture which can be had for 100 bucks less with lamps. Look here.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage~PageAlias~lighting_fluorescent_
current_usa_nova_extreme_t5_high_output_ho_lunar.html As far as bulb
selection, I'm thinking dealers are not going to open boxes and switch
lamps for you. If you find one that will, then I'd go with a 3 to 1
ratio of 10K and actinic. James (Salty Dog)> Re: Reef
Lighting/Selection 1/5/09 Bob, You may want to post this
in addition to my reply of the above query. Drs. Foster & Smith has a
sale on the Nova Extreme 8 lamp T5 fixture. Their sale price including
lamps is 386.99, item number AKA-21109. www.drsfostersmith.com. James
<<Have forwarded to the querior as well. B>>
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection 2/2/09 Salty Dog Thanks for
such a quick and informative reply. Unfortunately the 175 watt is not an
option with the light fixtures to the UK. What are your thoughts about 1
x 250 watt 13,000K, with 2 x T5 24 watt actinics and 2 x T5 24 watt
10,000K or if they can do it the same combination but with 39 watt T5's
instead. <Being this is a corner tank, you could likely get away with
it if this is your only option. The intense light loving corals/clams
would need to be kept directly under the halide in about a two foot or
slightly more in diameter zone. The other less light demanding corals
can be placed accordingly as to their light requirements. I'd opt for
the 39 watt T5's with your 24" deep tank.> Many thanks <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Wayne Adequate Reef
Lighting? ~ 01/05/09 Hi Guys, <<Howdy Peter>> I
recently purchased a lighting canopy from a friend. This canopy is
outfitted with a 2 65watt compact fluorescents (one daylight 10000k/one
actinic) as well as a 150 watt metal halide. I will be using this canopy
for my 65 gal reef aquarium that is 3' long and 18" deep. I currently
have several mushrooms and xenias, Zoanthids and a toadstool coral.
Is this enough lighting for this size tank and corals? <<Strictly
speaking, yes, this should be plenty of light for this tank/these
animals. Whether or not it is *optimum* is a different matter. I have
seen Corallimorphs turn brown under lighting that was too intense for
their needs, though they did just fine otherwise. And if the Toadstool
happens to be the variety commonly known as a Yellow Fiji Leather, then
it will likely appreciate a bit more intensity though it will probably
do fine here if positioned correctly. My point to this is there are no
pat answers. Yes, this light can/will keep your corals alive in this
tank. But you will need to research the individual lighting
requirements’ of each to determine their best placement re orientation
and height within the water column>> Also, when I determine the
amount of watts I am providing to my tank, is this just an addition of
the fluorescents and halides? <<Indeed… But this *rule of thumb* is a
poor guideline at best. In addition to the individual needs of the
corals, the efficacy of the lighting is also affected by water clarity,
reflector quality, bulb and ballast type/manufacturer, etc… Even
effective supplemental feeding (or lack thereof) of your corals may have
an effect on the lighting needs/effectiveness>> Thanks, Peter
<<Happy to share. EricR>> Re: Adequate Reef Lighting?
Actinic f' ~ 01/06/09 Do the actinic bulbs count toward the
total watts of light being delivered to the tank or is it just the
whites?? <<The basis of the formula is ANY wattage… But… A 10,000K
bulb is going to provide more useful output than an Actinic bulb of the
same wattage… And points out yet another inherent flaw to using this
woefully poor *formula* for determining the effectiveness of your
lighting>> Thanks again, Peter <<Regards, EricR>>
Lighting 200 gal reef 12/16/08 Thanks for doing an excellent
job. <Thank you for reading, writing.> I have a choice of two
light fixtures for a 200 gal. tank which measures L72" X W24" X H30".
They both have four PC's which I believe are 96watts each, but the
choice is the three metal halides, either 150 watts, or 250. Which
would you recommend? I currently have 6 X 96 watt PC's and want the
metal halides. <If you intend on keeping the same livestock you have
with your PC's the 150s can do, but for a 30" deep tank 250 MH bulbs are
the way to go. It will give you the flexibility of keeping just about
anything lighting wise within the tank. Light intensive livestock in the
upper half, with less needy inverts down towards the bottom. With 150s
you will be a bit more limited, keeping things such as SPS in the
upper third or so.> James Wedel <Scott V.> Reef
Lighting During Winter Question � 11/17/08 Hi all,
<<Greetings Skaife>> Great information on your site, and I use it
frequently to expand my knowledge. <<Very good to hear>> Now for
my question. I have a 125g saltwater tank with 4 X 96W PC lighting. I
have some xenia, a few Kenya trees, and a purple ribbon gorgonian that
were on my live rock and have flourished in my tank. <<Mmm, okay but
I would expect the gorgonian (likely Pterogorgia sp.), and even the
other corals you mention, would enjoy/benefit from a bit more light
intensity than you now have especially since Im betting that at least
half these bulbs are Actinic vs. Daylight>> My question is about
altering my lighting schedule during the winter. <<Not necessary…
Most all tropical locations where these organisms are collected have
about the same duration of daylight year-round (i.e. � 12 hrs)>> I do
not use a heater on my tank, as it stays very consistent between 77-79
degrees during the summer months as that is our room temperature.
<<This is not an uncommon practice. The gear (pumps, lights, etc.) used
to keep our reef systems going generally produce more than enough heat
delegating heaters to an �emergency only� role for the most part>>
During the winter, we drop our temperature down to 75 degrees in the
house, which is changing the tank temperature to 75-77 degrees.
<<Should be fine>> With this water temperature change, I was
wondering if I should alter the lighting times to relate to winter
months. <<Nope…for the reason stated>> I currently run the actinic
8 hours, and the 10K daylight bulbs 6 hours. <<Mmm… Insufficient in
my opinion… You say your corals are flourishing, but I'll wager they are
not… Not under this lighting combo and regimen… They may be living, even
growing a bit but I do also believe they would fare better under more
light. At the least, I recommend you increase the 10K photo-period to at
least 10-hours per day with 12-hours being even better. There's been
some speculation that increasing the photo-period can in a small way
compensate for lack of intensity, but adding another couple 10K bulbs,
in conjunction with increasing the lighting duration, would be of great
benefit here in my opinion>> I was thinking of reducing it down to 6
hours actinic and 4 hours daylight. Would this be ok? <<I do not
recommend this>> Or should I leave it on the normal schedule?
<<The schedule you have now is not �normal�…bump up the light, mate.
Here's some additional info/reading on marine system lighting:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm >> Thanks,
Skaife <<Happy to share. EricR>> Lighting for 55
gallon reef 11/15/08 I am looking for lighting for a 55
gallon reef, 36x18x20. I am planning to keep softies and LPS corals
because, as Bob writes in his book, I need to learn the craft before I
start on the more challenging stuff. I have been researching and have
narrowed the field, and am hoping you can advise me. <Sure.> I am
leaning towards T5 fluorescents. <Great choice.> The two fixtures
I am looking at are the Tek Light (6x39w), or the Aquactinics Tx5
(5x39w). Is there a big difference between the two fixtures? <Just
the one bulb difference.> Do you know if the design/materials of the
Aquactinics make up for having one less bulb? <No, both appear to
have individual reflectors.> The third option I am considering is the
SunPod MH, 2x150 watt MH HQI. I would either run a Ushio 10k or Phoenix
14k bulb. I may need actinic supplementation for aesthetics. <I would
stick with the T5 on this tank.> Are any of these options better than
the others? Is there another one I am missing? <Nah, either of the T5
offerings you mention will serve you well. Look at price, the
inclusion of bulbs with the fixture. All of that being equal, do opt for
the 6 bulb.> I do appreciate the help. Thanks dean <Very
welcome, Scott V.> Re: Lighting for 55 gallon reef
11/16/08 Thanks Scott. <Welcome.> With bulbs and all,
they were very close in price. It seemed that the Tek light was the
better deal, but with the Aquactinic rep I wanted to make sure I wasn't
missing something. <Nah, same basic thing except the extra bulb.>
dean <Scott V.> Re: Lighting for 55 gallon reef
Further Comment on Light Posting, fluo. fixt. choices 11/18/08
Hey, <Hello Dean.> I was reading the dailies and saw a response to
my post. I have comment of my own. <Okay.> Scott and Andy, I
did choose to go with the Tek 6 HO light for a couple of reasons. I
agree that the Aquactinics TX5 has some performance characteristics over
the Tek 6 Light, but the Tek 6 has some as well. The Aquactinics has
better reflectors and active cooling, and both contribute to the
fixtures performance. From my research, the TX5 can penetrate better. My
tank however is only 20" deep, with a DSB also in the mix, so I cannot
take full advantage of the reflectors. If my tank was a 65, 36x18x24 it
would be a different story. As for active cooling, I saw my third
snowstorm of the season today, My place doesn't get that warm, and I can
always add a fan. In the end what was the deciding factor was the sixth
bulb. Not because extra wattage, but because a sixth bulb give me more
flexibility in mixing bulbs and tuning the spectra. <A good point not
yet mentioned.> My bulbs are: Back ATI Blue Plus ATI
Korallin Zucht Fiji Purple Giesemann Midday ATI Blue Plus UVL
72.25 ATI Blue Plus Front The TX5 may be the better fixture,
but the Tek 6 made more sense in my situation as it turns out. I would
have had to give up my 75.25 and I really wanted that to pull out the
reds in my firefish and coralline. But thanks for the help! This has
been very educational for me. Y'all rock. Dean <Thank you for the
further input Dean. My stance re has already been posted. Glad you
are happy with your choice. Scott V.> The post was:
*Comment on Light Posting, fluo. fixt. choices 11/18/08*
<Hello again Andy.> I was reading Today's Questions and saw a snippet
of a post about the TEK vs. Aquactinics lights. Unfortunately, I
couldn't find the original post/answer, so forgive me if I'm way off
base here. The post/answer was: "Re: Lighting for 55 gallon
reef 11/16/08 Thanks Scott. <Welcome.> With bulbs and
all, they were very close in price. It seemed that the Tek light was the
better deal, but with the Aquactinic rep I wanted to make sure I wasn't
missing something. <Nah, same basic thing except the extra bulb.>
dean <Scott V.>" I assume the poster/you were talking about the
TEK 6 light HO T5 versus the Aquactinics TX5 fixture? <Yes.> I have
seen/observed both of these in action, and I can tell you that there is
a pretty significant difference between the two fixtures, IMO. The
difference in output/light quality/brightness is pretty astounding, with
the Aquactinics being the superior fixture. I'm not poo pooing the TEK,
which is a fine fixture, but the 5-bulb Aquactinics I've seen produces a
much better/brighter output than the 6-bulb TEK. Maybe it's the
reflectors, maybe it's the ballasts, maybe it's the bulbs that were
being used--I don't know. I've been told that the TEK runs very hot,
which I'm also told reduces the efficiency of the fixture/bulbs.
Although I don't always subscribe to this way of thinking, I
honestly believe there is a reason the Aquactinics fixture is more
expensive--because it is hands down a better fixture. My LFS uses both,
and the difference really is impressive. I'm sure you/others have a lot
more experience with light fixtures, and maybe these models in
particular, but I just thought I'd share my impressions/$.02. <Thank
you for your input, I do have to say I myself have not seen the
difference. There are so many factors to consider: bulb type/spectrum,
age of bulbs, fixture maintenance (reflector cleaning), and even the
perception of light put out. Both of these fixtures use HO T5 bulbs with
individual reflectors. I do appreciate your comments and this will be
posted for others to make a more educated choice. Thank you.> Andy
<Talk again soon, Scott V.> Re: Stocking, Questions in
general- now marine invert lighting 11/4/08 Thanks for the
quick response! <My pleasure.> I went to
www.asira.org, another awesome website! <Tis, put together by
WWM's own Sara M. (when she is not dressing up dogs).> <<Haha...
thank you Marc, Scott.>> Just wanted your opinion on one other thing.
the lighting in my tanks consists of two lights. A Finnex, t5, with two
55 watt bulbs, and a Coralife t5, with two 26 watt bulbs. So, in total,
about 160 watts of t5 lighting. So just over 2 watts per gallon. But, I
have my liverock stacked in the middle of the tank, and by middle I'm
referring to back to front, and then running from one side of the tank
to the other, left to right. So the rock wall divides the tank in half,
it almost makes it like a 55 gallon display, with the back half of the
tank just adds to water volume. So I have the two lights in the very
front of the tank, with the one actually tilts back at the front of the
rock wall, and behind the rock wall is not lit up at all. So am I right
in assuming that this is more intense than if it was lighting up the
entire tank. <Yes, concentrated in one section.> Also I don't
know if you are familiar with asira.com's rating system with lighting,
but if you are, what you consider the lighting i have, they rate
moderate t5 lighting to be a 3, and then extensive t5 lighting to be
like a 5 or a 6, according to this ranking system, where would you rate
my lighting? <Sara herself may very well chime in here, but I would
call this a 3-4, do also keep in mind her scale depends on placement
also.> <<Yes, indeed... especially with T5 lighting (well, any
lighting really), depth makes a *huge* difference. I would rate it
a 3-4 at about 2ft+ down, from the top down to 1.5 to 2ft, it might be
closer to a 5. -Sara M.>> Thanks again for the help! Marc
<Welcome, Scott V.> T5 lighting for 30 gallon mini reef
11/2/08 I am saving up for a lighting upgrade on my 30
gallon tank. For corals I currently have some softies and a sun coral.
<The latter can be tough, depending on the species. See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm.> For lighting
I'm temporarily using power compact lighting (4-foot light on a 3-foot
tank) which I got for free. <Can't beat the price! I have yet to pay
someone to take my *old * lighting!> I have been saving up for
months to get upgraded lights that will allow me to handle some LPS and
a clam (not too interested in SPS at present, but it seems the clam is
just as demanding). <For the most part, yes.> I think T5's seem
a good way to go because they are cheaper than Halides both initially
and down the road (electricity, cooling, bulb replacement). Also since
my tank is not huge or deep, I'm guessing that T5's can penetrate deep
enough without help from Halides. <T5s are the way to go IMO, save
the �shimmer� effect.> I plan to get a fixture (no canopy) with
individual reflectors. What would be the appropriate amount of T5 bulbs
to have a happy-healthy clam in a 30 gallon tank? 4x39watts? Or would I
be better off with 6 bulbs? <The 6 bulb configuration.> I
wouldn't guess that less than 4 bulbs would be advisable. <No.>
The clam could go towards the top, if that is an issue. I'm leaning
towards Current Sundial (4 bulb) and Current Nova Extreme PRO (6 bulb).
I know there are better and more expensive fixtures out there (like TEK)
but when it already takes me 6 months to save up $250 for lights, I
would need a good reason to save up for a $400ish fixture instead.
<Do realize that for clams that will not outgrow this tank, intensive
lighting and high placement will be necessary, meaning high placement in
this case, can be done. Ca supplementation in such a small volume will
also be an issue. Daily, if not automatic.> Thanks for the help,
Jack <Welcome, Scott V.> Fiber optics, sunlight and
reef lighting 11/2/08 Hello again WWM crew and thank you in
advance for your help (past, present and future!). <Glad the site
has helped you out!> I was wondering if there is any available
information about reef lighting using fiber optics to transmit actual
collected sunlight. I have seen articles about using fiber optic
lighting using MH and other synthetic light sources, but I am unable to
find anything about using natural light source with fiber optics to
light a reef. <I too have been wondering this, searching for
possibilities lately.> I know there are technologies out there that
use fiber optics to carry sunlight indoors to be used to light areas of
rooms, but that doesn't necessarily require the spectrum to be
transmitted. I know these systems are typically supplemental lights,
since the sun isn't always bright enough on rainy days and gives no help
at night, but it seems to me that may actually be beneficial in a reef
system as long as the spectrum is maintained. <Yes.> It seems it
would provide a year round natural light cycle that could have its own
benefits. I realize that you would have to have enough fibers to attain
the proper intensity, but I do not know how many fibers that might be.
<Nor do I, it would depend on the ambient intensity.> So, basically
what I am wanting to know is can fiber optics be used to transmit
sunlight to a reef tank in place of artificial lights? <I have no
doubt it could.> Can it maintain the proper quality and quantity for
photosynthetic creatures? <Don't see why not.> Would such a
system be possible and feasible or would it necessarily be too large in
order to maintain light intensity? <I suspect it would likely be
cost prohibitive.> It seems to me that even if there were more
initial cost, the long term savings in electricity and replaced bulbs
would offset the initial investment rather quickly. <To a point. I
do love, am captivated by the idea. With new emerging technologies, the
power cost to light our reefs is dropping all the time. Free would be
nice. T5s have started to change the way reef lighting is implemented,
with the LEDs being the future IMO. Below is the best material I have
found thus far on the subject, though not directly reef related.>
Once again, thanks for all your help and for a great site. Rob Watson
<Welcome, Scott V.> http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/246/
http://pesn.com/2005/07/27/9600139_Fiber_Optics_Bring_Sun_Indoors/
Re: Fiber optics, sunlight and reef lighting 11/5/08 Thanks
for the quick response and good info. <My pleasure, learning here
too!> It seems to me from the info you pointed me to that the
technology is probably there. <Definitely, the question is, is it
worth the cost or can it be done DIY?> The system that seemed most
promising in my opinion is the satellite dish style collector that moves
with the sun. I had seen some info on these systems already, but what
you pointed me to was more informative. As a follow-up, if I were to
query these companies about the light quality their systems emit at the
business end of the fiber optics, what questions would be pertinent? I
am aware of the guidelines for artificial light (Kelvin rating preferred
10-20 K, 4-8 watts per gallon depending on species being kept), but I am
sure there are other questions that would be more informative in this
natural lighting type scenario. <That is one question, what is the
color temperature that is actually transmitted. From what I have read
the data FOs use shorter wavelengths than we would use in the reef. But,
I do also realize it is more of a matter of the source light, which in
our case is the sun. If the spectrum is transmitted without alteration,
actinic lighting can balance things out for the tank.> For instance,
is there a PAR rating of the light exiting the fiber optics that I need
to look for (based on mounting the "lamp" end either at X distance from
the water surface or even under water)? <I would ask in regards to
spectrum and lumens emitted. I doubt (though it would not hurt to ask)
that they will have a PAR value to offer, it would be nice.> Since
one of their main points is that you get natural color, does that need
to be a concern? Or, does that most likely mean the light will be around
6700 K and not near the 10K or more desired? <Actinic
supplementation would be required. If a filter is employed to alter the
spectrum (or if the optic line itself changes things), it would simply
filter out the lower wavelengths, not increase the shorter.> Is there
some other measure or light intensity I need to seek, or if they claim
their light is equivalent to X watts, would that be more useful?
<Watts in relation to whatever bulb they are comparing it to can be
useful, I would like to know a claimed lumen output, although this will
depend highly on the input!> I saw an article (I believe in Advanced
Aquarist) that mentioned the possibility of the light-emitting end being
placed under the water surface, since there isn't heat emitted and no
electricity to prevent this, that would allow for lower light levels
since you would be losing no light to surface reflection. Not sure I am
a total proponent of this, since you would lose the dappling effect that
you get from single point light source. Plus, it seems you would
inevitably get salt creep into difficult to clean places, even in a very
well sealed unit. But I can see the benefits of requiring less light and
making this more feasible since there is no surface reflection. What are
your thoughts on above the water surface versus below the surface
lighting in this type setup? <I see many problems with below the
water, mainly light dispersion. Even though it is �free�, we still want
the whole tank to be lit!> The articles I read also state that the
reflector of this systems blocks UV and IR. While I can definitely see
the benefits (no cancerous UV and no heat transmission from IR), is
there some amount of these spectrums that is currently considered
necessary in a reef? <Not really, we do take steps to filter out UV
with our halides. Some do argue that some UV is necessary.> I am
aware that in many species, lack of UV-B can cause calcium deficiency.
Do corals and other photosynthetics also utilize UVA and UVB? <No.>
Would the lack of all UV be detrimental? Would it be better to only
block the cancerous UVC for a reef? <These all bring us back to the
basic question, what spectrum do these systems transmit? Filtering out
the shorter wavelengths will lower the Kelvin rating. Do realize many
indoor lights are 4000K, or even down to 3000! If this is what they are
comparing to then. However, I do suspect the filtering of shorter
wavelengths is intentional, likely with a simple filter, that should be
able to be omitted from the system.> Thanks again for all the help.
Sincerely, Rob Watson <Thank you for spurring me to investigate
this further. I have talked to a couple of engineering/reefing friends
and they both seem to think there is great promise in this, even as a
DIY! One even has the idea (and wants to try out) of aluminizing (like
they do for telescope mirrors) a satellite TV dish. It is a parabolic
collector with a known focal point! Pricing out some FO lines, we
speculate this may be able to be done for the price of a nice MH
fixture. Time and experimentation will tell, as will spectrum and
intensity! One great link I was pointed to, hopefully this will help you
out too. I will keep in touch with what we find, as I urge you to do to.
Scott V.>
http://www.nait.org/jit/Articles/grise122002.pdf
Lighting Choices... reef 9/26/08 Hi everyone. I
have a lighting question for you. I have looked at your site but the
more I look the more I get confused. I was reading this article from Bob
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm and it
states in his opinion that full spectrum florescent lighting VHO is the
best most appropriate lighting. <In some situations, less so
nowadays.> But then when I read more into other articles others there
answer say that PC and VHO are basically the same but PC has more
density than VHO but Metal Halide would be the way to go. <Again, it
depends on your system and livestock.> This is my plan and then you
can give me an idea if you don't mind. I have a 55g that I want to move
over to a 125g AGA that I got a few months ago. I have finally finished
the sand bed and plumbing and want to start on the light. The light I
have now on my 55 is a Odyssea 260w CF and I don't think that will be
enough of my 125. I am going to build a canopy and was planning on
pulling the fixture apart to put in there but again I don't think that
is enough. I was planning on putting some DIY MH till now. It has a 6in
sand bed right now. All my stock is still in my 55 which is a 4ft Zebra
Eel (reason why I need to switch to my 125) 1 Clown, few Dempsey, Angel,
butterfly and yellow tang and a few sps. <Yep, time to upsize!> I
want to be able to really stock this once its up and going to lots of
coral. <What corals do you wish to keep?> What is you
recommendation on the light and how much (wattage, quantity, etc..)Also
don't want something that will bring my electric cost up. Single parent.
<More wattage equals more power used regardless of bulb type. For what
you are looking to do you may want to consider T5 bulbs. They tend to
impart less heat into the water and are as energy efficient that you can
get right now (except for LEDs, but these are big money). How much
wattage depends on what you wish to keep. A little research on your part
regarding your desired livestock will answer this.> Been doing this
for about 5-6years so I'm not really new to all this. Thanks!!
Bill M <Welcome, Scott V.> Odd Lighting Question
revised (sorry guys and gals), SW fixture choices, reefs...
9/25/08 Hello crew, hope you all are well. <I am here,
thank you.> So I have a lighting question for you. I have a 60 cube
that is 30" long x 24" tall x 18" wide. I was using two t5 lighting
units, both 48 watts. I recently upgraded to a SunPod 30". Its a 150
watt MH with all the LED's ( very happy to have those for night time
viewing). I took the t5's down, but after chatting with some reefer
friends that use other types of lights with there MH's, I started to
think about maybe using the t5's with the MH SunPod. Would you recommend
this? <You could, its up to you. Most use T5 actinics with MH to
“blue” the water a bit more and make the livestock fluoresce a bit.
Realize that all light transfers some heat to the tank, even T5s.>br>I
am not doing any sps, just softies, LPSs, polyps, and Shrooms. Also, I
have read/heard never to remove the center plastic beam on the top of
the tank, and I haven't, but it casts a shadow in the center of the tank
from the MH. What's your take on that black plastic beam? <I hate the
danged things, but if your tank was designed with it leave it be.> I
am hanging the MH pendant about 10" above the tank, do you think I
should lower it? <7-10” is about right.> Also because my tank is
so tall would I benefit from lowering the light, as well as using the
t5's? <What you list will be fine with the light you have, but the
T5s will not hurt anything either. They can have quite an impact on the
look of the tank depending on bulb choice.>br>Also, given the right
conditions how long does it usually take coal to grow/propagate?
<Depends on the coral.> II have notices some of my zoo's grow new
polyps, but my hammer hasn't gotten any bigger or shown any signs of new
growth. I also have never had Mushroom reproduce either. I have heard
stories of people putting mushrooms in a tank and two weeks later
splitting occurs. All my water parameters are in line and I test and
change water religiously. I feed the coral with DTS 3 times a week. Any
suggestions? <Mushrooms do appreciate more of an indirect, subdued
light and current. These are one of those corals that can grow like
gangbusters in ill maintained systems and just be there in immaculate
tanks. More info at the link below and linked pages above on the
page.>br> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm Thanks again guys
and thanks for your continued support and information. This site has
been a wealth of information for me over the past year. <Heee, thank
you and welcome!> Spencer Hall <Scott V.> Lighting
for a 150 gallon reef tank 09/18/2008 <<Hi there, Andrew
this evening>> I recently bought a 150 gallon reef ready oceanic
tank, about 29 inches deep. This will be my 4th and largest tank. I plan
on making this one an SPS and clam tank, and am going through my
lighting options. I would like to go with metal halides complimented
with some t5's or PC's. A few concerns here. The oceanic 150 tank has
a very large and thick piece of glass used as the center brace. This
sort of rules out the common and easy to find 3x xxxWatt fixtures, as
the middle bulb would be blocked significantly by the brace. <<Ahh
yes, a very common issue>> I guess these are the options I've come up
with. 2x250 watt, 2x400 watt, 4x150 watt, 4x250 watt, 4x400 watt. Most
of these have 4x pc's or t5's. I think that the 4x250 watt system would
work well, but for some reason is about $500 more than the 4x400 watt
system I had found, which I fear may be overkill - plus a burden on my
electrical system. The tank I planned on leaving with an open top and no
canopy. The 2x400 watt option I feel would work well, however that would
be 2 pendants without the complimenting t5's. I'd like to keep the look
as simple and aesthetic as possible, and a strip of t5's I feel would
hurt the look with some clean pendants. I wish that a 3x 400 watt system
would work on this tank, but I fear the middle bulb would be blocked too
much, as well as potentially melt the small piece of plastic which runs
across the glass brace. Of the combinations I've listed, which do you
think would work well for a tank this size? <<Josh, my suggestion to
you would be 4x250w. This will give a nice coverage of light, down the
full length of the tank, and be good enough to penetrate to the depths.
Thanks, Josh <<Thanks for the questions, i hope this helps. A
Nixon>> Reef Aquarium, lighting, stkg. 09/18/2008
Hello, <<Hello, Andrew this evening>> I am currently setting up a
65 gallon reef aquarium 36x18x24 and I have a few questions I would like
to ask. <<Certainly, let's get to them>> It has a Tunze DOC
protein skimmer and a Tunze Calcium reactor and 65 pounds of LR and as
well I use RODI water. <<Nice>> I am planning on putting mainly
LPS, Zoanthids, Clams, and maybe Montipora in the aquarium, The lighting
on the aquarium is 1- 14,000k 400 watt bulb and 2-96 watt power compacts
is that sufficient enough? <<Certainly, yes. Might be too much for
some, but, simple use of shadier areas are were good>> Secondly, how
long should I wait till I had clams from the species Squamosa, deresa
and/or gigas into the aquarium? <<On the clams listed, i would not
suggest any of the ones listed, as they all get to a foot or more in
length>> In addition, can I add LPS corals into the aquarium after it
is done cycling? <<Sure thing>> Thirdly, I plan on having 2
Percula clowns, 1 mystery wrasse and I wanted to put a tang in the
aquarium as a centerpiece. I was wondering if that was possible and if
so which species? In about a 60 gallon tank, the only tang i would
suggest is Zebrasoma flavescens>> Thank you very much for all your
great advice Sam. <<Thanks for the email and questions, Sam, I
hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Lighting ??...I'm in over my head!! Reef 9/1/08 Hey
Crew, <Phil> After much reading, and little understanding, I have
decided to ask the crew for lighting help. <Okay> I have a 75 gal
reef tank. Along with fish, I have a Colt Coral, Finger Leather, Candy
Cane Coral, Zoanthids, mushrooms, polyps, and Open Brain Coral. I have a
Current T5 Nova Extreme Pro (3 54w 10K, 3 54 w 460nm). I want to use
the best bulb setup for my tank...but the choices are immense. <They
are and growing all the time!> Please help!! Giesemann makes AquaBlue
+ (60/40 combination of 6000K and 22000K phosphor blend), Midday (6000K
5 point Spectrum), Actinic + (60/40 combination of deep blue and
actinic), and Pure Actinic. Furthermore, besides the bulbs that came
with my fixture, Current makes a 420nm actinic and a 6700K bulb.
FosterSmith also has 10K Reef Blue, 10K Reef White, Actinic White 12K,
and Super Actinic 420nm. Yikes!! Stop the madness!! Will you please
tell me what the best combination of bulbs would be for my 6 bulb T5
fixture would be?? <The best combo is hugely personal choice, but I
can certainly tell you what I would do and why. I would run four of the
white 10000K bulbs with two of the actinics, with one actinic placed in
the very front of the fixture, the other pretty much wherever. The
daylights will provide the light for your corals to grow, while the two
actinics will provide a look that most would be happy with. By placing
at least one of the actinics in the front you will see the maximum
effect of it when viewing the tank from the front.> Thanks!! Sorry
for being...forever...a lighting noob. -Phil <Welcome, enjoy the
system, Scott V.>
Lighting New Reef 8/22/08 I’m setting off on a new path and
wanted to ask a few questions. The answers are there, for sure, however
much reading has left my head spinning as usual. I have decided I want
to take the ‘next step’ and have purchased a reef tank… the tank is a
‘reef-ready’ 65 gallon, 36” long by probably 24” high and 19” wide.
<Do check out WWM re these "reef ready" tanks, most are not.> We are
doing this ultra slow, as in all I have purchased so far is the tank and
stand, and as I am planning only to purchase the best items possible, I
am purchasing them as funds allow. This is good, because it is giving me
more time to learn about the future inhabitants. I think I’ve settled on
a skimmer, an AquaC Urchin model to go in a 20 gallon refugium I am
working on building myself. <Fine choice.> My questions revolve
around corals and lighting. The LFS I purchased the tank from uses T5HO
lighting instead of Metal Halide. The brand he recommends is ‘Tek’,
which I’ve never heard of. <Nothing wrong with those fixtures.>
Lighting has been a big question, because obviously this will be a
costly investment and it needs to be the right decision. I’ve looked at
several ‘pendant’ or hang on type Halide lights, which would provide
300w of halide lighting from two units, but they don’t offer any other
forms of lighting. I’ve also considered the big units that combine a
halide light with PC lighting and the aesthetic moonlight. Now, of
course, this T5HO lighting has entered the running and stirred things up
even more. Any way you dice it up, it looks like lighting will be a $400
to $500 investment. I do not want to over light the tank, so to speak,
and will not be adding a chiller to this tank. Which direction would you
lean? <Definitely with the T5. You will have more flexibility in
swapping bulbs to get the look you want, you won’t have to worry about
the pesky center brace on your tank, and this will be your best shot to
avoid the chiller (least heat transfer to the tank).> I’m trying to
refrain from coral questions till I have read more. If you can think of
some common names I can use in the search engine to find some of the
easier ‘beginner’ corals that might narrow my search, I’d love to see
them. <A trick question! I suggest picking up a book or flipping
further through WWM and deciding what you are interested in, that is
what counts! Then you can build your system to suit the needs (amount of
lighting/water flow, placement, general care). Do be sure to also take a
look at compatibility between different corals that interest you.>
<<Good answer. RMF>> Thanks again, Thomas Roach <Welcome, Scott
V. Oh, one last thing. Do check out the site listed below, it was put
together by our own Sara M. Great site giving you the basics on many of
the commonly available corals.>
http://www.asira.org/caresheets
Re: Lighting New Reef 8/27/08 T5 it will be then! Thanks so
much again. I've noticed that these fixtures all seem to have 39w
bulbs, but how many is sufficient? 4 bulbs? 6 bulbs? 8 bulbs? Those
seem to be the common offerings. <It again depends on your desired
livestock, but the 8 bulb could be suitable for most anything. This will
give you the intensity to keep higher light needing corals (with correct
placement) and the ability to keep lower light corals if you wish. You
can always run lower intensity (bluer) bulbs, or even shut some bulbs
off. > My interpretations from the reading is that a 10k mix with
some Actinic bulbs would be best. <It is the best mix, don’t get too
caught up in having a ton of actinic. A few is all that you will need to
get “the look”. Where the actinics are positioned inside the fixture
itself can have a huge impact on the look of the tank. Play with the
configuration a bit to see what you like.> Oh, and by 'reef ready' I
mean that it has a built in overflow. I want everything contained
within the sump so that nothing is visible or hanging on the tank.
<Very good.> Thanks again! <Welcome, Scott V.> Thomas Roach
Lighting for 55 Gallon Reef 8/16/08 Hello All, <Ramon.> I
have a 55 Gallon tank that I want to start growing mostly polyps, and
mushrooms, maybe one or two pieces of soft coral. <Okay> My
lighting now is 1 32w 48" single light strip with a "zoo med" Flora Sun
bulb at 8500k, 1 17w 24" single light strip with a "zoo med" Reef Sun
50/50 bulb and 1 48w 24" Nova Extreme with a 10,000k bulb and a 460
actinic both T-5. My question is will this be enough light for what I
want to survive and grow or do I need to get a different fixture? <It
will be a bit on the low side even for this livestock.> I also have 1
40w 48" 18000k bulb that can replace the 8500k bulb should I replace it
or just leave it alone? <The lower Kelvin bulb will offer more
“usable” light.> I also have a dual PowerCompact light fixture that
has 4x65watts with only 6700k bulbs in it. <I would add this fixture
to the tank, if it is not already. The 6700K bulbs will be yellow for
the taste of most, swapping these out for a couple of 10000K and a
couple of 50/50 actinic/daylight will give you an appealing look and
enough light. Of course, if you do not mind the look of the 6700K bulbs,
they will work fine.> Thanks again for your help and also for the
best website on the web. When I first go online your daily asked
questions are the first thing I read, even before I check my mail. As
always keep up the good work and I will keep reading. I'm glad help is
just a "click" away thanks to you and your staff. <Heee, thank you.>
Ramon Ortiz, Tampa FL. <Scott V., back in Fresno Ca. for the time
being.>
Re: Lighting for 55 Gallon Reef 8/17/08 Wouldn't having the 67k
bulbs on bring unwanted algae? <Not without the other factors that
fuel algae (nitrate, general excess nutrients). The “holy grail” for
coral growth is still the Iwasaki 6500K bulb. This spectrum bulb is
better for growing photosynthetic organisms, zooxanthellae and unwanted
algae alike.> Also, how long should I run the lights? <Twelve
hours or so for this lighting.> Right now I have button polyps and
it's 3/4" from the top should I move it down when I put the other light
fixture? Also how far down should I go? <I would, to 10” or so, move
up over time if you wish.> I can't change the 67k right now, I can
only change a bulb once a month, would this be fine or just wait until I
get all of them? <You could wait with your polyps this close to your
current lighting, or make the switch if you are okay with the look.>
Thanks again, Ramon Ortiz. <Welcome, Scott V.>
Reef
Lighting - Would like to purchase new bulbs 8/1/08 - need help. Reef
Lighting 8/1/08 Guys: <And gals!> I am rounding the corner
to understanding the last frontier of reef tanks for me - since I've
made most mistakes that could be made (except overstocking,
compatibility and not waiting for cycling), <The most common
mistakes.> in the last 18 months (despite months of beforehand
reading), and I am now making a genuine effort to understand reef
lighting, now that I think I've got my flow problems solved (the second
to the last frontier for me). I know, I know, lighting (and flow)
should have been first in my understanding, but it just seemed too
complex and controversial for me to tackle then. I have the time and
money wasted to prove it. <Trust me, we all have the time and money
to show! Lighting and flow can be changed after the fact, tank, stand
and drains should be the first consideration. These require tearing down
the whole system to change. What you are going through is the natural
evolution of reefkeeping.> Now that my bulbs needs changing (overdue
actually) - I've stepped up my efforts to get lighting right this time
(and not just listen to the fish store people). <!> I think I understand
all the facts of light (though not the nuances) and am ready to purchase
new bulbs. <OK> However, since lighting is most expensive, I just
flat out want your opinion on what to do for my specific wants and
needs, tank size and inhabitants. What lighting is best for a 26
gallon bow front reef tank? <Depends.> My current light is a 24"
Nova Extreme T-5 HO 10,000K daylight with actinics and moonlights - but
for a total of only 96 watts, daylights and actinics included! <This
ratio can be changed by swapping bulbs, if you are ok with the look.>
Now that I better understand lighting (I think), it seems to me that
there is little wonder I have had very little success with most corals
(when all other factors are controlled for). This seems like very
minimal light - all things considered. Am I correct? <Really depends
on what you want to keep. Lack of success in such a small system
starting out could very well be due to instability rather than just
lighting.> At 8 wpg - it seems that I should have at least an
approximate total of 200w. Or would 6 wpg be better (150W)? I've even
heard up to 10 wpg (250W)! All I know now, is I have about 3 wpg and
they are old (as bulbs go). <WPG is a poor measure of lighting. In a
small tank like this you can in many cases get away with less due to the
fact that your corals will inherently be close to the light.> Welcome
nuisance algae (even when all other factors are controlled for).
<Another common hazard in small systems, but large systems as well.>
I do not have room for a chiller (unless I get one of the nano
hang-on-tank ones (that got surprisingly good user reviews), so it looks
like metal halide is out of the question for now, at least. <Without
a chiller, likely is out of the question.> So, I guess I'll stick
with fluorescents that go in my current fixture, but I REALLY want to
achieve the crisp shimmery look, with a bright white light with slight
purplish color (rather than the bluer look) that I see in some tanks on
the web and in stores. <I love this effect, but have also grown
tired of it in time. The overall power savings of T5s now have me
enamored. LEDs provide both, with a huge upfront cost!> I absolutely
do not prefer yellows, which accentuate any flaw in the tank, such as
the seemingly obligatory occasional spot of Cyano or green algae. Seems
to me not only is the crisp white-purple appealing to the eye, but it
also hides the drabber colors in an aquarium - something I wish to do,
at least until I get a tank full of colorful corals. I've had it with
the grey-greens! I need enough watts to grow a mixed reef - but not
"fry" my 2 false perculas and green chromis damsel with the intensity or
heat (or my detritivores, for that matter). This is just about all that
is in the tank, save a few zoo frags and a finger leather frag. <You
will not want to mix too much diversity in such confines.> Can you
tell me what 4 bulb combination to use (that can be accommodated by my
current fixture), so far as the Kelvin rating, the wattage, variety,
intensity and spectrum of each bulb to achieve the visual effect I want
as described above? (I hear there are different ranges of blues and
purples in actinic bulbs, to further confuse me.) <If you are
looking for a very blue hue you will want two true actinic 03 bulbs,
peaking between 420 to 430 nanometers. The balance will be 10000K
daylight bulbs. But, for more useable light for corals, I would
recommend going with a single actinic, placed in the front of the
fixture, with three daylight bulbs. You will actually be able to keep
quite a variety of corals with this.> Obviously, I want the best
prospect of succeeding with a varied range of corals, and heat reduction
without having to use a chiller, but still be able to achieve that
bright white-purply shimmery effect. <At most I would consider adding
a bulb or two to your current setup.> Is this possible with the type
of bulbs my fixture takes and under which different varieties of corals
can survive/thrive (softies, stonies, etc.). Your recommending a photo
cycle will be helpful also. <It is possible to achieve a happy
balance, but I would not keep both soft corals and SPS/LPS in such a
system. Photo period will need to be 12 hours a day.> P.S. Just got
Bob's book and love it - read it all in one night! <A fellow
addict!> Should have had it from the beginning, instead of having
stacks and stacks of internet articles. <Some of the internet
resources, particularly those from WWM are great.> Bob covers it all
in one place. Too bad he did not directly address a 26g bow front reef
with a white-purplish shimmery effect. LOL <I had the same problem
years ago ? The book really is an invaluable resource.> Thanks!
Again! <Very welcome.> Aleasha Baltimore, MD <Scott V., Fresno,
CA.>
55 Gallon Flat Back Hex Lighting Question, Reef set-up
6/26/08 Hello! <William> I just recently went to a club
meeting at which Bob Fenner spoke for a few hours and I must say that I
learned a great deal J. <Me too> My question relates to a new tank
that I am setting up. I purchased a 55 gallon acrylic flat back hex tank
(48 long x 20 tall x 16 deep) used from a LFS used this summer (darn
being a poor college student). <Richer than I was!> It came with
a Marineland Canister Filter, Coralife 4x64W PC light, stand, and a 10
inch tall canopy. I recently purchased a Pacific Coast Imports RPS-1000
skimmer to go with a sump/refugium that I am putting together to go
underneath the tank. The plan is to be patient and set up the tank when
I go back to school in early August so I am gathering all the pieces for
the tank before I go. <Good> Currently I have a 37gallon tank (30
long x 24tall x 12 deep) with about 50 pounds of live rock. I am running
a Koralia nano, Koralia 2, and a powerhead from Petco for water flow. I
am using a BAKPAK 2 skimmer hanging on the back of the tank. Also a
250w/ 2x24w T5's combination light by Sunlight Supply (Maristar). The
tank has been running for around 10 months and going strong. I have two
percula clowns, a mandarin, and a peppermint shrimp. There is also a
GBTA, <Mmm... this may eat your Mandarin> and a purple long
tentacle anemone. <And not a good idea to mix anemones! Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/CnidIndex2.htm> A little bit of xenia, some
Zoa's, a green/pink Yuma, and some sun coral (the non light using kind,
can't remember the name for it). The GBTA has been in the tank for about
8 months and the long tentacle about 6 and a half months. <Well...
looks like they're getting along> My question is that when I move the
inhabitants to the new tank what would be the best light for the new
tank? <Posted... for a two foot depth of watter... of this length
system... two smaller watt MHs of about 14K temp.> The only thing
that I would be adding to this tank is possibly a few more LPS and maybe
a Kole Tang. (would also like to know if he will be unsuitable for a
55g as I will be keeping this tank for sure for two more years at
school). I am interested in something along the lines of MH as that
seems to be treating the anemone's well and that is the main focus for
the new tank the relationship between the Percula's and anemone's. I am
planning to have about a 3 inch sandbed in the new tank as the long
tentacle is buried very deeply in my 3-4 inch sandbed in the 37g tank.
So I am just wondering what would be the best wattage lighting for this
tank as I don't want to have too much on the tank, and I don't plan on
having sps anytime soon, the anemone just fascinate me too much to get
away from. Thank you so much in advance I seem to have run into a
wall on this one. ~Will Bowen <And here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the tray at bottom. Cheers,
Bob Fenner>
Lighting 100 gallon Reef 6/20/08 I'm upgrading to a 100 gallon
aquarium ( 72 X 18.5 X 19.5 ) which will house LPS ( specifically
bubble, lots of Euphyllia ) and some soft corals and Zoanthids. For
the lights I'd rather stay away from metal halide, I'm wondering if T5's
or Power compacts would be enough for a tank of this nature. <Oh
yes.> There’s a fixture I'm looking at that has 4 96 watt power
compact bulbs. I'm hoping since the tank is relative shallow that this
lighting will be good, but I'd much rather go a little high on lights
than a little low. Thanks for you opinion. <This fixture will work
out fine. Do consider the T5’s also for the flexibility of bulbs. With
the PC’s you will likely end up running two actinics and two daylights,
making your lighting 50% actinic. With a T5 fixture in a comparable
wattage you will be able to fine-tune the amount of actinics to get the
look you want since each individual bulb is of smaller wattage and will
run the span of the tank. Welcome, enjoy the new tank, Scott V.>
Coral Lighting/Reading 6/12/08 Hello! <Hello.> I would
like to get some advice about coral lighting. <OK> I have 135
Gallons tank FOWLR (72"x18"x22"). I got peaceful fishes and they are
reef safe. I have a castle decoration on my aquarium and around 60 lbs
of live rocks and 125 lbs of live sand. I'm using 2 Fluval FX5 filter,
AquaC Remora Pro protein skimmer and 4 Koralia #4 powerheads with
alternating setup (2 running and 2 off then will switch every 15 min.s).
<This will wear them prematurely, startup is the hardest phase on an
electrical motor. Simply pointing them at each other to create a
turbulent/random flow is sufficient.> My plan is to put 5-7 corals
and anemones as addition to the decorations. <Corals and Anemones do
not mix well.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
> I'm already looking for the lighting with daylight, actinics and
moonlight fixture. What is the minimum watts I can use and what type of
corals I can put? <It is a matter of researching exactly what you
wish to keep and build your lighting around the needs of the desired
livestock. Anywhere from a few hundred watts on up.> I have a pair
true percula so I will need a suggestion what type of anemones with get
along with them. <Posted in the above link.> Also will appreciate
if you can list the corals that I can put on my aquarium. <Well,
without shooting at the mouth too much, nothing and anything. Obviously
nothing until you get lighting, but anything once you do (with the
lighting built around what you wish to keep). You are starting with a
fresh slate here. Start a list with the corals you desire the most and
work down researching WWM and other resources regarding compatibility.
All the answers you desire are posted throughout. The biggest piece of
advice I can give you here is to stick to this list, carefully planned
out. Avoid impulse buys, look before you leap. You will save yourself
much trouble this way.> Thanks! <Welcome, Scott V.>
Reef Tank Lighting Change – 06/11/08 Morning Crew! <<Hello!>>
I have a 40 gal. reef tank currently using a Coralife 50/50 96 watt
light. The tank includes: Finger Leather Bubble Coral (Reef
Tank Lighting Change Take Two) Sorry for the screw up, I sent my
e-mail totally unfinished. <<No worries, I have merely appended it
here>> Anyway, back to the corals. Finger Leather Bubble Coral
Condylactis <<Mmm…can spell trouble, especially in such a small
volume (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condylactis.htm)>> Hammer Coral
Colt Coral 3" Green mushroom 2 large Mushroom polyp frags, 30 - 40
polyps each Red Button Polyp frag Green Button Polyp frag
Christmas Tree Worm rock And for the non-corals Maroon Clown
Coral beauty <<Really needs more space than this tank provides>>
Pajama Cardinal Lawnmower Blenny Sally Lightfoot Peppermint
Shrimp Snails and Hermits As I said we currently use a Coralife
50/50 96 watt, and want to upgrade to a Coralife 50/50 192 watt we got a
good deal on at our LFS. <<Hmm, okay…though I think the first unit
was probably adequate for this tank>> Since this will be roughly
twice the amount of light, I would like to know, first, if it is too
much light, <<Possibly for the Corallimorpharians and even the
Plerogyra…but you may be able to position these to reduce the amount of
direct light they receive>> and if we make the switch, what is the
best way to adjust the corals? <<One method is to use a piece of
plastic “egg-crate,” cut to fit on top of your tank, to support three or
four layers of fiberglass screen material (also cut to fit the top of
the tank). Place the egg-crate and screen material under the new lights
and remove a layer every three days until all is off. You can have a
look here and among the associated links for more ideas
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm)>> I've read that
Mushrooms can be very sensitive to lighting change, but the Leather and
Hammer both need LOTS of light. <<Many factors can affect this (e.g.
– species, collection location, water quality/clarity, placement in the
tank, etc.), but generally speaking yes, the Corallimorphs will fare
well (as will that Bubble Coral) and show better color (many have a
tendency to turn “brown” under lighting that is too intense) under less
illumination than the other species you listed. Even so, in this 40g
tank the single 96w bulb was probably fine…or you could simply have
exchanged the 50/50 bulb for an “all 10K” bulb and been fine as well>>
Please give me some pointers if you could. <<Hope I have!>> Much
appreciated! Amanda <<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
Coral lighting 06/06/2008 Hello everyone, <<Hello Marc,
Andrew this afternoon>> I appreciate all your help. I've had a lot of
questions, here at the beginning of my saltwater hobby, but I just want
to get things right the first time. I have already asked before about
corals that are compatible with my light. I have a 75 gallon tank, with
a Coralife compact fluorescent with 2 65 watt bulbs. And I was told
mushrooms, polyps, Xenia, and some leathers. I'm really just looking to
do mushrooms and a toadstool leather. Is this light sufficient, or will
it just "get me by". What ever I go with, I really want it to thrive.
Thanks again for your help. <<To be honest, its sounds fine to me. I
would not say the leather will "thrive", however, its "acceptable"
lighting.>> Marc <<Thanks for the questions, A Nixon>>
Lighting, reef 5/3/08 Hi everyone, <Marc.> I have
doing a lot of research on your website, and it has helped me out a lot.
<Great!> I have been reading up on lighting and I still can't find a
straight answer to my question. I have a 75 gallon fowler tank, and I'm
starting to look into doing some corals. I have been careful not to add
any fish to the aquarium that are not compatible. <It is a good
practice to research and plan stocking.> The tank is still new, about
8 weeks, and the livestock seems to be doing well, now that I fixed the
problem of fish jumping out of the tank! <Oops!> Currently I have
a Coralife PC with two 65 watt 10,000k bulbs. I am looking to replace
the light, even for just looks alone, but I figured, if I'm going to
switch, I should look into to getting a light for corals now. <More
planning ahead, awesome!> I was really hoping to get either a PC
fixture with 4 65watt 10'000k bulbs, or a T5 fixture with 4 55 watt HO
bulbs. Are either of this adequate for any corals, and if so, which
ones? <Lower light corals such as zoos, most soft corals and many
LPS will work with this lighting.> And how about for anemones?
<No, you will need about twice this amount of light, more for some
species. Even with adequate lighting it is a good idea to skip the
anemone unless you want a tank nearly dedicated to one.> That is the
other route I was looking to take. And how long should I wait to add
corals or anemones if I have the right light? Or am I all set now that
the water quality is where it should be? <I will have to take your
word the water quality is good. The another big factor with a newer tank
is stability. Assuming both these are there you will be ready to start
adding corals if you wish, do so slowly.> Thanks Marc <Welcome,
good luck, Scott V.> Re:
Lighting 5/4/08 Thanks for your help. <Welcome.> After
receiving that information I've decided to wait and see if I'm going to
want to do any stony corals that I would just have to replace the light
again anyway. In the interim though, is the light I have now ( the
Coralife with just two 65 watt bulbs) enough light for live rock, and
will it still produce coralline algae? <The light will be fine for
coralline algae and the live rock.> Also, are there any corals that
can live in this light, if so which ones, and would these corals, if
any, be able to survive if I end up switching to metal halides in the
future? <Any of the corals mentioned in our previous correspondence
will work and make the switch fine with careful placement and
acclimation.> Thanks Marc <Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>
Reef Lighting 4/26/08 My head is spinning trying to make sense of
lighting ... I have a 95 gallon wave aquarium (very similar to the
standard 90 gallon). I am looking at a fixture which has 2 x 150 watt
HQI's and 4 54 watt T5 HO's for accent lighting along with some lunar
lights. <A nice combo.> Would this be sufficient to house
softies, LPS, SPS and clams if placement is done carefully. <Yes,
with careful placement as mentioned.> The reason I'm looking at this
fixture is I'm really trying to cut down on the amount of heat so I can
avoid a chiller. <I hear you, a constant battle to avoid a chiller!>
Thanks for any info Tim <This combo will work out fine. Keep in
mind the 10000K bulbs will give you more usable light out of these 150’s
than the higher K bulbs, this can make a huge difference in success with
this lighting. Welcome, Scott V.>
Coral Glue And Coral Light Absorption (Photoperiod) – 04/12/08
Awhile ago I got a couple of corals that came with a silicone type glue
that mounted them to the rock. At the time, I didn't think it would be
so good and don't recall where I got these corals. This glue bonds to
rock just by placing it on top of it. I have tried to locate this
material at all the tropical shops in my area but no one carries it or
knows what it is. It is not "super glue" or putty - it stays flexible
and doesn't need to be reapplied. Can you help? What is it and where can
I get it? <<I can only guess, but there are some better “underwater
epoxies” that remain flexible. These products form a molecular bond that
is quite tenacious. They’re quite pricey too…at around $50 per quart>>
On the coral's light absorption - how many hours of light do they really
need daily using optimum lighting? <<”Optimum lighting” will vary by
species…but lighting in the tropics where most all specimens we strive
to keep hail from averages a bit more than 12-hours per day…and at an
intensity we can only dream of replicating>> Does it vary by type of
coral? <<Indeed>> I have polyp types, leathers, frogspawns,
elegance and coral plates. Thank you. <<I suggest you provide a
lighting period of somewhere between 10 and 14 hours per day…depending
on quality/intensity of the lighting. EricR>>
Re: Setting Up 110 Gallon Reef System... Why not read? 03/22/2008
Hello Again Crew, Mystery man, Ron here again. <<Hello again,
Andrew today>> I have attached your last reply to me. You have
addressed all of my concerns, so far. I hope this is the last one???
<<Ask as many as you like>> Here's my question for you. I have
decided not to hold off on getting my lighting system. The tank is a 110
gallon 48 Lx 18 W x 30 D. It is going to be a reef system with no SPS. I
do want to be able to keep Clams, LPS, soft corals and of course
inverts.. <<Sounds good>> Now, I needed your suggestions. I have
looked at the Outer Orbit HQI + HO T 5, 2 x 150 10K HQI, 4 x 54 T 5
actinic, 18 lunar and the Obit HQI-Metal Halide & Actinic Power Compact
2 x 150 10K HQI , 2 x 130CP actinic, 6 lunar lights. Would either of
these supply enough light and do I not need to use Halides at all? I
want a nice looking system when the lights are on at a reasonable price.
I am not stuck on the Orbit brand, so if there is some other brand you
prefer, let me know. <<With the depth of your tank, 30 inches, i
think it would be best to go with a halide system if you want good light
penetration down to the bottom of the tank. Something like a 2 x 250w or
even 2 x 400w system would be a good choice in my opinion as depending
on the type of clam you want, some prefer to placed on the bottom of the
tank..>> The whole crew has been great at answering my questions and
in record time. Thank Again, Ron <<Thanks for the questions, hope
this helps. A Nixon>>
Lighting? 3/10/08 I have a 90 gallon marine aquarium that is 25
inches tall. Is four 54 watt HO T-5 bulbs enough light for this tank
with low light corals and an anemone? <This will be a little low for
the anemone, I would add another two or more bulbs in the daylight (10K)
spectrum for the lower light anemones, some will require the leap to
metal halides. You will need to research the specific species of anemone
you want to keep for its lighting requirements and compatibility with
whichever corals you want to keep with it, generally not a good idea to
mix.> If not, what is your suggestions for additional light? Tanks a
lot! <Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>
Lighting... 75 reef... 03/09/2008 Hi crew, <<Hello Ron,
Andrew today>> my question is about getting the most bang for my buck
when it comes to lighting. My tank is a 75 gallon ,with protein skimmer,
refugium, and live rock. The fish that occupy the tank are a potters
angel, leopard wrasse, yellow tang, two percula clowns, and two
Bubbletip anemones that have divided several times. My current lighting
is a four bulb t5 system. I was considering increasing the light for the
anemones, and would like know if it would be a good idea to go with
metal halide lights or a six bulb t5 lighting system some of my concern
is overheating. Thanks Ron <<The answer, in my opinion, would be to
upgrade to either 150w or even 250w metal halide unit. This will remove
near enough all limitations on stocking capabilities. Heat wise, a
simple clip on fan from a DIY store would suffice, blowing across the
water surface.>> <<Hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Thanks/ Lighting/ ID 2/29/08 Hello Crew- <Esther...> As
I approach the one year anniversary of very first marine tank I
would like to thank you for providing so much information on your
site; which has led to my success in this hobby! My fish are waving
their fins in cheers as well, as they benefit the most I think!
<You're all welcome> Setup/ Specs: 75 gallon (48 x 18 x 21), Aqua
C Remora Pro with Mag pump, 90 lbs. live rock, 3 power heads for
water movement, and Corallife PC 260W lighting fixture. Ammonia: 0,
Nitrate: 0, Nitrite: 0, dKH: 11.8, Calcium: 440. Aside from the
hitchhiker Zoanthids, (and the ID below) I am just starting into
corals and only have a Candy Cane coral right now. But as it is time
to change my light bulbs again, I started thinking that at $30 each
bulb for 4 bulbs every six months it is, in the long run, not very
economical and that there better options out there. I have been
looking into T5 lighting (I am not able to do MH) but want to know
if you really don't need to change the bulbs as often? <Correct>
So I have been looking at the Nova Extreme and the Nova Extreme Pro.
The Pro has 6 x 54W, but with individual reflectors, and the other
has 8 x 54W but with a single parabolic reflector. After some
reading, I think that the individual reflectors are the better
choice because of the 'light absorption back into the bulb loss' is
less with the individual reflectors. Thoughts on this? <This is
also so> My wish list for future corals would be: Blastomussa,
Cynarina or Lobophyllia, and a plate Montipora; could these be kept
under either of the above lighting? <Yes> Lastly, I have a
small colony of hitchhikers I can't seem to identify and hoping you
might have a clue. They are about 1/8" in diameter and after I
noticed the first one, (about 4 months after getting that piece of
rock), they have started multiplying. I've included (for hopes of an
easier ID for you) a shot of a grouping of them, as well as the
mouth and a skeletal make-up. I would love to know what they are so
I can record it in my saltwater log. Thanks again! Esther
<Are stony corals... scleractinians... I think a Caryophylliid...
testimony to your good care here. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Reef Lighting 2/28/08 Evening Crew, <Good morning here.>
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with all of us.
<You're welcome.> You all were of great help as I selected my pumps
and skimmer. I went with an Iwaki MD-40rxlt for my closed loop, an Eheim
1262 for my sump and the EuroReef RS-100 skimmer. I'm getting to ready
fill with water and LR and want to start preparing to upgrade the
current 48" Top Aquaria Series light that contains 3 10k 36w bulbs. I
have an 80gl bowfront tank in which I plan on stocking with a
combination of LPS (Frogspawn, Hammer Coral) and SPS (Montipora
capricornis, Acropora), Zoanthids, a BTA, <Would not put the BTA in a
coral system.> xenia, leathers and a clam or 2. I've tried to read up
on lighting requirements but am just not sure which way to head. All the
lighting options and wattage ratings are confusing me. Can you simplify
the pros/cons of MH vs. T5? If I go T5, will 6 54w bulbs be enough? If I
go with MW, will 2 150w with T5 actinics be enough? I'm hoping to just
make one purchase and not have to upgrade in a year. My only current
experience with lighting is> currently a 24" Corallife pc with actinics
and lunar LEDs on my 20gl. I really enjoy the variable lighting from
dusk to dawn and the faint lighting in the evening from the LEDs.
However, I've been considering upgrading the 20gl as well so I can add a
wider variety of corals. <Do read here and linked files above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm Thanks in advance.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Reef Lighting, metal halide and livestock
requirements 2/19/08
Hi, <Hi Jay> Great website and I have enjoyed researching on it.
<Thank you.> I have a quick question on a newly acquired system that
I got from a friend of mine that was moving. It is a standard 75g,
48Lx18Wx20H. It has a dual Hamilton ReefStar unit with two 150w HQI DE
14K bulbs in a wood canopy (2 fans, one pulling and one pushing). The
protective glass under the bulbs is about 10" from the waters surface.
It also has a retro unit consisting of 2-96w PC bulbs mounted in the top
of the hood, but they are about 12" from the surface, hence I'm thinking
the PC's are not going to be much benefit being so far up. <Not too
much with a 20" deep tank. Can you lower the hood anyway?> My
question is on livestock with the dual 150w HQI's: Would a couple of
blue/green Crocea Clams/ Blue Maximas and a few SPS do well in the
middle to upper part of this tank? I also plan on having some Zoanthids,
Ricordea, and LPS like Frogspawn, Hammer, and Acans. It would be a
slightly mixed reef, with less emphasis on the clams and SPS, maybe 1-2
clams and 5-8 SPS. Thanks for your great work and help. <Clams seem
to prefer being on the bottom, preferably on a sandy substrate. In this
regard, considering the depth of your tank and lighting placement, I'd
go with either Derasa or Squamosa Clams which do not require the
lighting intensity that the Maximas do. Any SPS should be kept in the
upper third of the tank. Read here for more info on clams.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/Clam_care/Clam_care.htm James
(Salty Dog)> Jay
Lighting a 65 Gallon Reef 2/13/08 Hello, I've found your
website very helpful for many things, and have searched it over and
found many conflicting opinions on lighting. <Lighting a reef has
personal preference as a component, hence the differing opinions.> I
realize that there is no "right" answer, but I was looking for an
opinion on this specific tank. I plan on setting up a 65 gallon tank
with sump, skimmer, approximately 100 pounds of liverock and a 4 inch
sandbed. <Sounds like a nice setup.> Right now I have mostly LPS
and some soft corals in a smaller tank, but in the new setup I would
like to experiment with some Montipora and clams. A lot of the articles
seem to prefer VHO, HO etc. fluorescent lighting, but I worry about the
light penetration from these lights in a 24" deep tank. <With enough
bulbs fluorescents will work fine. Perhaps consider a T5 fixture with
six or so 39W bulbs.> Would metal halides be my best bet? <It is
definitely a viable option.> If so, would a 250 Watt HQI IceCap
Pendant be sufficient? <Definitely, the problem is that these tanks
generally have a plastic center brace. If it does you will likely want
two Halides to avoid casting an unsightly shadow in the tank. In this
case I recommend two 150W units. If you have no center brace one 250
will be perfect. The center brace will not be an issue with
fluorescents.> With no hood on the tank, would heat buildup be an
issue if hung approx. 12" off the surface? <You will have more heat
imparted into the water with halides, but you can help this out with a
fan blowing between the surface of the water and the light. You may need
a chiller depending on the ambient temperature in your area and your
other equipment; it is possible you may need one anyway without the
halide.> What bulb would you recommend? <Again, this is greatly
personal preference. I like the 10K offerings out there, they give more
usable light for your money spent on electricity without looking too
yellow for my taste.> Thank you. <Welcome, happy reefing, Scott
V.> Re:
Need Lighting Help... reef 01/25/2008 Hi Andrew,
<<Tiffany...>> Thank you very much for the timely response. I have
been contemplating between two lighting systems.... the first obviously
has more wattage and is a big more expensive, but the second one has
built in timers which I thought was a great feature. Both have
individual reflectors which I thought would be good for the light
intensity. Any opinions or have you heard anything on either of these
fixtures? 48" Nova Extreme Pro 6x54watt --> 359.00 48 inch Current
USA SunDial T5 HO 4x54W w/ Timers & LED --> 269.99 <<Both are good
lighting fixtures. My preference would be the Nova extreme out of the
two, I feel this is a very good choice although, yes, you would have to
buy timers too. The Sundial, although cheap is 100w less and I feel the
extra 100w form the Nova pretty much covers you in lighting requirements
to keep a huge selection of coral in the tank>> Thanks! Tiffany
<<Thanks for the feedback, reply.. A Nixon>>
Lighting Overkill? 1/23/08 I currently have a 65 gallon,
36x18x24, I already have 2 150W halides with 20K radium bulbs. I would
like to upgrade to a system that has 2 250W 10K halides with 4 T5
actinics. This would give me around 656W, but that is over 10 watts a
gallon. I plan on housing more sps and clams in the future. Should I
stick with this idea or go with a less wattage of halide, like 2 175W
mogul with T5's. <I would be inclined to stay with your current
fixture with bulbs in a better (10K) spectrum.> I currently have DE
bulbs and the lighting in question has DE bulbs. I currently have just
polyps, some micromussa, a tort, purple fuzzy and a BTA. Would like
clams to live in the tank, 2 died under the 150W's. <Not enough
“usable” light with the 20K.> I'm having a big problem deciding.
Thanks for your patience. Also, no heat issues right now, but will I
have serious heat issues if I do go with the 250's, <Quite possible.>
Thanks <You will realize a large increase in light your corals/clams
can use with the simple switch to a lower wattage bulb. Two 250W would
be overkill in my opinion considering it is a three foot tank and the
lights will overlap quite a bit. The 175W would be fine, but again
different bulbs in the 150W fixture would be the way to go considering
the lighting will overlap. Check out the link below, noting the
difference in PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density; what your corals
use) between the 10K and 20K bulbs. Welcome, hope this helps you decide,
Scott V.>
Best Lighting? 1/21/08 Hello, <Hello Tom.> I have a
four year old 20 gallon setup with the following livestock:
maroon clown yellow-tailed blue damsel coral banded shrimp
feather duster star polyps torch coral birdsnest xenia
zoanthids Palythoa 2 acropora (ora roscoe and a brown one
received at MACNA this year) Pavona snails (Cerith, margarita,
and Nassarius) Oxypora (frag 1 inch) <Wow, one busy 20 gal.>
Hardware: 24" Coralife PC (one 65watt 10,000K and one 65watt
50/50) Hydor Koralia #1 Sea Clone 100 (I modified it to be a
needle wheel and adjusted the collection cup.) I would like to
purchase a HQI light for my tank, so I can add more SPS and get the
best color out of them but I do not want a chiller and can not hang
the light from the ceiling (because I rent). I would like to know in
your opinion what would be the best possible fixture for me? I was
looking at the 24" SunPod with a 14K 150 watt bulb but it would have
to sit on the mounting pegs it comes with and I did not want to
"cook" my tank. Is there other options for me to get the best
lighting or should I stick with what I have do to my tank volume?
<Depending on the ambient temperature you may be able to run the MH,
but there is always the chance this will push you into needing a
chiller, especially on such a small system. I would either stick
with what you have (it is working, right?) or look into some of the
T5 fixtures out there if you want more intensity from your light.
The PCs you have can sustain what you list, of course with the SPS
closer to the light.> I appreciate your help! Thank you,
Tom (enclosed is a picture of my current setup as of today
1/22/2008) <Welcome, this looks like a nice system, you may need
more room as everything grows! I hope this helps you decide, good
luck, Scott V.> | 
|
Reef Lighting Upgrade…Do I need It? – 01/11/08 I have a 75 gallon
reef system which houses a variety of LPS, soft corals and Zoanthids.
<<Okay>> I currently have two 175 watt 15000K metal halides providing
the light for this setup. <<I see>> While this, to me, seems more
than sufficient, <<Agreed>> I was recently tempted by an
advertisement for an Odyssea Metal Halide system with two 250 watt HQI's
and four 65 watt compact fluorescents with lunar LED's all for a very
modest price. <<Mmm, more light than you need I suspect…and do be
aware, you get what you pay for…>> The metal halides I currently use
are nothing special, a retro kit I got online, <<Nothing wrong with
retro kits…>> so I assume I won't be deviating too far from where I
am currently regarding quality. <<Not necessarily… Personally, I am
leery of this product/vendor>> Unfortunately, my current budget
wouldn't allow a "name brand" higher quality lighting setup. <<Best
to stick with DIY fixtures built from “retro” kits then…in my opinion.
You “can” go too cheap…>> My main question is whether or not a 760
Watt lighting package can be maintained in a tank such as mine or will
this level of lighting do more harm than good to my coral inhabitants?
<<I don’t think you need it. If you have a desire for more
intensity/PAR…this can easily be attained by replacing the 15000K lamps
with lamps of a lower Kelvin. If you’re worried about losing that “blue”
look, spend those bucks on some T5 fixtures with Actinic lamps to add to
the existing lighting>> My tank is an open top and, without running
fans, it stays between 77 and 80 degrees. <<Going to a higher wattage
MH bulb may change this>> How much temperature increase should I
expect if I were to upgrade? <<Hard to say… Will depend much on
currently airflow, ambient room temperature…>> Thanks for your
insight and advice. <<Hope it’s been of use. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Reef Lighting Upgrade...Do I need It? - 01/12/08 As always,
thanks for the fast response. <<Quite welcome>> I realize that 760
watts is overkill for my tank, <<Indeed>> but do you feel it would
harm the inhabitants, or is it simply more light than I need? <<More
than you need… The current inhabitants could likely be acclimated to
more light…but that doesn’t mean they would “prosper” under more light
than they need/can make use of. It is not unusual for deeper water
specimens (Corallimorphs, some LPS species, etc.) to lose color/turn
brown under lighting that is too intense/more intense than that in their
natural surrounds>> Thanks again for your help! <<Cheers… EricR>>
Reef Lighting 1/10/08 Hello, <Hi Renee> Again, I find
myself confused about something and needing a steer or two in the proper
direction. <We can do that.> I have a 75 gallon Tru Vu Aquarium
(4' long...standard sized) with an overflow built down the center (wrong
spot for an overflow, IMHO, but it works for me), and the first question
is if the lighting is sufficient. I have a wet/dry, Bak Pak skimmer,
heaters and various powerheads in the tank, as well as a hood and stand.
On that tank, I have 2 50/50 96 watt CF 34" bulbs staggered. So, I'm not
sure if each bulb contains 192 watts or 96 watts. <Each lamp is 96
watts for a total wattage of 192.> What I grow in there are Colt,
polyps, mushrooms and Condys. <No where near enough light to satisfy
a Condy, and may not be enough for the Colt Coral.> In my next tank,
a 29 gallon standard sized aquarium, I have no lighting as of yet. What
will go in there is almost anything I can put in. I have an opportunity
for a 150 watt HQI Pendant. I would add to that a T5 strip with one blue
one white, if necessary. What kinds of corals would I be limited to if I
go with this setup? Can I put a BTA in there and would it be sufficient
lighting for it? <A 150 watt HQI would allow you to grow most
anything. The 29 is too small for a BTA, water parameters have a better
chance of changing in smaller tanks, something the anemones don't
tolerate too well. As for the strip light, it would just be in the way
and isn't really necessary with the 150 watt HQI. My choice here would
be to go with a 14K lamp.> Last, but not least, I have a 25 tall
Eclipse 2 converted system. It has a compact fluorescent double white
bulb in front, and a set of T5s in the center, by Corallife, one white,
one blue and I have one small CF daylight lamp on the side of it aimed
at my BTA which lives in there. I wonder, is that enough light or should
I amp that up? Do you have any suggestions as to the type I should place
on there or should I just put that BTA into the 29 when it gets going?
It is healthy, not bleached at this time. I am sorry for such stupid
questions. I am not only a novice, but being a woman, I don't deal with
lighting very often. In freshwater systems, it's so much simpler.:)
Renee, I'd like you to read these links and related articles contained
within. This will help you understand reef lighting requirements and
also the needs/systems for keeping anemones. And, being a woman has
nothing to do with succeeding in this hobby.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
I thank you ahead of time for your expertise. <You're welcome. James
(Salty Dog)> Thank you, Renee
New Setup, Marine Lighting 1/10/08 Hi, <Hello> I have
another question: I am setting up me new 150G tank (60x24x24) and I am
trying to figure out what type of light would work best for me. I have a
very good water flow (20 times+) and two 90G refugia for nutrient
transport and food generation so I hope that I don't need to go crazy
with light. <Depends on what you want to keep.> I am considering
two options: 1. 432W (8x54W bulbs) Current USA Nova Extreme T5 HO
fixture (or similar T5 HO system) 2. 3 x 175W MH reflectors. I
am going to start slow with adding livestock but will probably end up
with a small number of fish and reef garden so basically I would like to
be able to grow most things. <The first option will be fine for most
corals, but if you want to keep really light demanding corals the MHs
will be necessary.> Also, I would like to minimize the electricity
consumption and would like to have a system that has most flexibility to
modify as needed (e.g. adding more light bulbs as the tank matures and
the light needs increase). <Either setups should be all you would
ever need.> Could you please advise if Option #1 would be sufficient?
<Depends on the specific corals you wish to keep, most would do fine
under either setup. See these links for more
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm ,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm , and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm .> Thanks again,
John. <Welcome> <Chris>
Reef Lighting/Selection 1/1/08 Hello! Happy Holidays! <And
to you my friend.> I first wanted to thank "the crew" for all the
great hours of reading, sound advice and establishing the trust you
have from the readers, myself specifically. Your website is in the
first slot on my Favorites link on my computer. It's been said so
many times, but nonetheless, you guys are great and your advice is
invaluable. <Well thank you!> Okay, now to the situation at
hand. I came home from walking my dog yesterday and instantly could
smell burned plastic or rubber or something of the sort-very
distinctive smell. I immediately ran to my aquarium and saw that
half of my lighting system was dark. I don't know anything about
electronics, but I think it's toast. It was a 6X96 watt PC unit. I
wanted to upgrade anyway, and now my hand has been forced (which is
okay). <Mmm, were the cooling fans operative?> It is a 72",
125 gallon reef aquarium that houses a healthy load of fishes (yes,
maybe a little overloaded and therefore, not optimally healthy,
which is why I hesitate to list the inhabitants-please don't yell at
me, I don't think it's terribly so) as well as lightly stocked LPS
and SPS corals that are all doing very well. They consist of 2
growing Montipora frags which I've been surprised to say have
flourished in this "lesser" Power Compact Fluorescent climate,
<Mmm, 600 watts of PC lighting is not all that bad for your shallow
tank.> a Caulastrea Furcata colony, an Acanthastrea colony as
well as some unidentified corals imbedded in my live rock (I believe
one type has been described as a "cup" coral, whatever that means
and the other type appears to be a kind of colonial SPS or LPS
coral). There is also a hitchhiker anemone which I've found
described as a Curly Q Anemone. Since the "burnout" has occurred
(and it is the unit that is fried, not the lamps), I've grouped the
peaceful corals somewhat closely and have used my only backup to
light them, which is a hang on 150 watt MH unit. I need to quickly
purchase a new system, but am somewhat limited financially. <Have
you contacted the manufacturer about the problem. If you haven't had
the light very long, most will take care of the problem.> Around
$700 is probably my maximum. I also have the added issue of probably
not being able to hang lights since I live with my parents and my
dad probably will not let me. <If you have a wood canopy, a
retrofit system is the least expensive.> I've come up with a few
options that I want to run by you and hope to get a clear ranking or
just ones that you think should be good and ones to avoid as well as
requesting any additional suggestions. I would like to support high
lighting required inhabitants including SPS and clams. Okay, here
are ones that I've found to both be in my price range and should be
a good upgrade to what I had before. I will list and link so you can
see them in case you are not familiar. The first seems too good to
be true, but if it works well, should bathe all inhabitants in tons
of light: 3X250 watt metal halide, 4X96 Watt PC with 8 lunar
lights and electronic ballasts from Aqua Trader.
http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=332
<My dealer tried one of their PC systems and thought they were of
good quality, no experience with the MH's though. You are correct in
saying "too good to be true". Does sound like too much for the
money. You may want to contact Aqua Trader and ask about the
warranty. Another option, post this question on one of the salt
water forums. We had one but I do not see the link anymore on our
homepage.> This one is not nearly as powerful and not as much
wattage, but from an established and well known company (but also
the company that sold me the PC system that just burned out, not
that I fault them. 72 inch Current USA SunPod 3x150W 14K HQI-MH
w/ 24 Lunar Lights
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CU01066.html
<I have a Current PC system on a tank, and have had no problems with
it in two years. On another note, Marine Depot is a respected
company and I doubt they would handle a product that has a problem
reputation.> Next is more powerful and looks like a great option,
but I just haven't heard anything about them. 6 Ft. Captive Sun
Deluxe Hood Lighting System-3X175 Watt MH+2X160W VHO (bulbs not
included)
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CP4116.html
<Again, as above. Tell you what I'll do...I'll contact Marine Depot
and get some info for you and get it back to you in a day or two.>
I'm also considering the following due to all the positives I've
heard about T5 lighting, but not sure that it would be sufficient
for the inhabitants that I would like to keep. The bulbs seem to
have individually wrapped reflectors which I've read makes all the
difference. 72" Current USA 12X39W Nova Extreme Pro T5HO
6-10K/6-460nm Actinics
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~pro~action~view~idProdu
ct~CU01082~idCategory~FILTFIT5T7~category~72_inch_Current_USA_12x39W_Nov
a_Extreme_Pro_T5HO_6_10k_6_460nm_Actinics_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Li
ghting_Fixtures_T5_Lighting_72in_Units~vendor~.html <For what you
want to keep, I'd be safe and go with MH or HQI lighting. Clams seem
to do better under this type lighting.> I know you guys don't
always like recommending products and are not always familiar with
the overwhelming amount of products on the market, I'd just like a
clear opinion from an expert (I know you guys are too modest to
consider yourselves "expert", but to me, you all clearly are, so
just accept the positive title:-)) about what they (you) would do if
you were in my place. Lighting is such an important aspect of reef
keeping and SO expensive to someone who is lower middle class at
best that I just want to make the best decision possible. I've
worked so hard to improve my water quality and flow (which is why I
think my Monti's are doing so well even in the lesser light-I've got
great flow now after adding over time), that this lighting issue may
very well be the difference in having a really nice reef tank or one
that still looks a bit amateur...or at least can't house some of the
more advanced corals I'd like to try. Of course lighting doesn't
determine your aquatic abilities. I consider myself an intermediate
aquarist who's been keeping reef tanks for 5-7 years and I feel like
making this tank successful will be a huge step for me. I appreciate
your consideration and the time you've taken to read this long query
regardless of the outcome. Thanks for everything you do. <You
certainly are on the right track. I'd be comfortable with either of
the two products you list from Marine Depot.> Please add any
suggestions for lighting units I have not listed that you think
might fit both my needs and budget. <If you have a wood canopy,
consider the PFO retro systems from Premium Aquatics, is what I use
and a very well made product.> As a side note, I'm writing this
from my work email address, can you send the response to my personal
address, please? <Not a problem.> Thanks so, so much!
<You're welcome Nicholas. James (Salty Dog)> Nicholas Sadaka
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection 1/2/08 Thanks so much, James, I
really appreciate the response! <You're welcome, Nick.>
Unfortunately, I don't have a wood canopy, which stinks because I
would certainly go the retrofit route if I did. Your question about
the cooling fans being operable is a good one and one that I just
couldn't say for sure. They've always been so quiet that I probably
wouldn't be able to tell on an average day without really tuning
into it. Let's just say that I hadn't noticed that they were not
working, but it's certainly possible. <The fan(s) also need to be
cleaned periodically, do mine twice a year.> I also don't know
ANYTHING at all about electronics, so I'm not even sure if it was
something with the ballasts or the wiring or what, but it certainly
gave off a very strong odor and had my parents running around
looking for a fire! Now, after saying that, let me just say that I
do believe that Current is a great company and if I did not, I would
never consider getting another unit from them. I've had PC lights
from them that I got when I started in the hobby that are still to
this day running well, so, I hope anyone reading this did not take
my story as a slight against Current at all. <No worries here, we
like to hear about problems people have with components, keeps
fellow aquarists aware of potential problems with such.> I
haven't contacted Current about the light (it's probably about 4
years old), but that's more because I really want the upgrade now,
with the ability to keep Acropora and clams and such. <Four years
old, without cleaning the fans, I'm pretty sure they were not
working properly.> I was planning on doing that within the next
year anyway, so now is as good a time as any. I certainly would love
to take you up on your offer to talk to Marine Depot on my behalf,
and I appreciate that immensely. That is very kind of you and I look
forward to hearing your response! <Sent off a message this
afternoon, should hear from them sometime tomorrow and will forward
to you.> If you get busy and don't have a chance to get to
contact them, that's okay too, I'll just go with one of the two MH
systems from Marine Depot (and you're right, Marine Depot is a great
company and I buy from them constantly and have NEVER had a
problem). <Good to hear.> I probably have to make a decision
in the next couple of days so the tank can be lit again, so I look
forward to hearing from you if you speak with them, but again, if
you can't, that's okay too. Thanks again for your response. I always
feel like I got a chance to talk to someone we look up to in the
aquarium hobby when I get a response from one of you guys! Thanks
again. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Reef
Lighting/Selection 1/2/08 <Nick, did receive a reply from
August at Marine Depot. Below are the contents of his email. Hope
this helps you. James (Salty Dog)> <<Hello, Thanks for the
email. Since the maximum amount is $700, the closest metal halide
with legs in that price range is the Current USA SunPod. Here is the
quick link
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CU01066.html. This
is a really good product. It comes with LED lights for moon lighting
and to slowly acclimate the tank everyday. It comes with 3 150W
bulbs. Everything is included. For a shallow water tank, T5’s can
also be used. The only issue is the length of the bulbs. The biggest
we have is 48” inches. So unless 2 x 36” inch lights can be used,
the only option is the metal halide. If you have any other
questions, please feel more than welcome to contact us. Take care!>>
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection 1/3/08 Again, James, thanks so
much. I sincerely appreciate all of your effort on my behalf.
Through reading the daily questions and reading through the content
on WWM, you eventually get a feel for the personalities of the
experts. That being said, I really feel like you are a good, stand
up guy and a valuable asset to the hobby. If this is posted, <All
queries are posted in the dailies.> some people are going to read
and say, "boy, that guy's kissing some butt", but the bottom line is
that I have nothing to gain by sharing this opinion and if I did not
truly feel this way, I'd just keep my mouth shut. Everyone really
needs to realize and understand the service WWM is doing by
providing this information free of charge. That's rare and special
and without speaking for anyone else, greatly appreciated by me. I
genuinely extend this sentiment to the whole crew and request that
the occasional disgruntled aquarist that writes in keeps this in
mind before attacking a helping hand. <Well said.> No one is
right all of the time, but the ability to share unselfishly
separates the masses. Okay, don't want to get too wordy and mushy,
just want to say "thank you" one last time! <Nick, thank you so
much for the kind words. Nobody on the crew is "kissing butt". As
aquarists with years of combined experience (+30 for me), our goal
is to help others avoid mistakes we have made in our learning
process. When I started in this hobby, there were no forums and such
you could go to, in fact it would have been difficult since there
was no internet back then. All we could rely on was a good book or
two, but the books back then rarely gave any info as to
requirements/compatibility etc. You pretty much rode the horse
alone. Good luck to you in this hobby, and I'd like to thank you for
doing such a fine job in writing. It is rare that I do not have to
edit queries as to caps, punctuation, etc. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection 1/3/08 Bob, Below
is an email I just received from Marine Depot, is from Keith
MacNeil. It is in regard to the Reef Lighting/Selection query.
Thought you may want to post his email on the dailies. Regards,
James <Will do. Thank you James. BobF> Hey James, Thank you
for inquiring about these fixtures. I was looking over our emails
and noticed this one wasn't quite answered the way I think you were
looking for. I believe you are looking for more of a quality issue
than alternatives. The CurrentUSA fixtures have been getting good
reviews. I have one of their metal halide fixtures that has been
running flawlessly over the last 2+ years. CurrentUSA offers a 1
year warranty on their fixtures that would be handled by the place
of purchase. One of the nice features are the internal ballasts for
their 150 watt units. The Captive Sun fixtures are custom made
exclusively for Marine Depot. These have been being made for us for
quite some time now with very few problems. Any issues that have
come up have been resolved very quickly. Again warranty issues are
handle by Marine Depot. I have talked with people that have been
using their fixtures for over 5 years with no issues at all. I
hope that helps out some and I apologize if the first email was not
what you were expecting.
Lighting Query From Wet Web Media
(Thread:1103937) Hello, Thanks for the email. Since the
maximum amount is $700, the closes metal halide with legs in that
price range is the Current USA SunPod. Here is the quick link
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CU01066.html. This
is a really good product. It comes with LED lights for moon lighting
and to slowly acclimate the tank everyday. It comes with 3 150W
bulbs. Everything is included. For a shallow water tank, T5’s can
also be used. The only issue is the length of the bulbs. The biggest
we have is 48” inches. So unless 2 x 36” inch lights can be used,
the only option is the metal halide. If you have any other
questions, please feel more than welcome to contact us. Take care!
Thank you for choosing Marine Depot. We are always available for any
support that you may need. August Sicat Marine Depot Customer
Service www.MarineDepot.com Phone: (714)385-0080 Fax:
(714)385-0180 Hi gang. I've got a query from a gent inquiring
about two different lighting systems you sell. I'm not familiar with
their MH systems. Can you help me out. He seems to be concerned
about quality/longevity. I'll post the query with my notes in
carets below. I did send the query but will reply to him with your
input. Thanks much, James Gasta (Salty Dog) Wet Web Media
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection...Queriors Input... cave canem
1/3/08 Dear Crew, <Hello> I saw the messages between
poster/Salty Dog re the Aquatraders.com 72" 3x250W MH system and
wanted to provide him/her with some info. I purchased the 48" 2x
250W MH/4x65W PC system for $379 and am very pleased. It is made by
Odyssea. So far, it works well, the fan is quiet, it runs cool and,
most of all, my corals are very happy under it. Before I
purchased, I read about 10,000 posts <Naw, c'mon.> on the
several threads on reefcentral.com re: the experiences of hobbyists
with the MH Odyssea fixture. Almost all posters that I read have
been very pleased and feel that the fixture is an exceptional deal.
<I thank you for this, will post for others to read. James (Salty
Dog)>
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection...Querier's Input 1/4/08 James,
<Andrew> Well, it was probably like 9,990 posts. In all
seriousness, I urge anyone interested in the Odyssea MH fixture to
set aside about 30 hours and review the 1 billion-post threads on
the fixture in reefcentral.com <Again, thank you for your input.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Reef Lighting/Selection Query. More re Above Water Photography
1/5/08 Boy did I open a can of worms with the Reef
Lighting/Selection Query, Whew. I believe much good was done here,
especially regarding the Odyssea MH fixtures. For the price, it
appears they are a quality fixture. <Yeah... I read this ten
bazillion times, and I still find it hard to believe> On another
note, why are the manuals you get with cameras so vague? <Wish I
knew> Tells you want does what but not why or why you should use
certain functions. Oh I wish I had my Nikormat 35mm camera back.
What a joy to use and great pics. Didn't have a menu with 500
options. Sheesh. Time to start looking for a book on the G9 that is
more user friendly. Wonder if there is anything out there like
that. James|<The very best thing to do here is to search on the
Net for folks who have used the model, or one close to it... for
their insights into use/settings... Believe me. B> <The very best
thing to do here is to search on the Net for folks who have used the
model, or one close to it... for their insights into use/settings...
Believe me. B> |
Yet another lighting upgrade question 12/30/07 Hi WWM Crew,
<Hi Jason!> Let me start by letting you know how much I appreciate
all of the useful information you freely give to your readers. I can
only imagine how many aquarium critters you’ve saved. <Thank you.>
Now a little background information – I currently have a 55 gallon flat
back hex acrylic aquarium with 4 55w PC lamps. Right now I’ve got a
Candy Cane Coral, Frogspawn and a Pulsing Xenia. All of them are placed
in the upper 2/3 of the tank. I believe that my current lighting is
enough to sustain these corals, but they may not truly thrive (I do feed
the Candy Can and Frogspawn every other day). For the New Year I’d
like to upgrade my lighting system; I’d really like to go the HQI metal
halide route and maybe use 2 of the PC lamps for supplemental actinic
lighting. However, with my canopy closed I only have 4 ¾ inches from the
top of the aquarium to the canopy (the shape of the flat back hex canopy
has also proven to be problematic for lamp placement). My concern is
that the heat output from the MH lamps will be a problem; especially
given the fact that it’s an acrylic aquarium. Removing the canopy and
using a pendant really isn’t an option. <With that kind of height
restriction I am concerned about the same issues.> An alternative
would be to go with 4 or 6 - 36” 39W T5 bulbs instead of the MH lamps; I
may not gain as much intensity or any shimmering as with MHs but I’ve
read that T5 lamps do not need to be replaced as often as PCs and that
they are more energy efficient…which could potentially offset the cost
of the upgrade. <Eventually.> I realize that the inhabitants I
wish to keep are really the driving force behind my lighting; first and
foremost I just want to ensure that my current corals are happy with an
eye on the future (my crystal ball tells me anemones and clams are not
in my future). <Possibly a clam higher up in the tank with the T5’s,
if you have the real estate. Anemones no.> I have read through your
site regarding lighting, but I would really just like a little
hand-holding on my lighting decision. <Your current lighting is
adequate for what you have, but the T5’s sure wouldn’t hurt. Be sure to
invest in units with individual bulb reflectors.> I would appreciate
any insight you can give me on my upgrade options. Thank you and I hope
all of the WWM Crew a wonderful New Year! Jason <Happy New Year to
you too. Have fun with your new project, Scott V.>
Mushroom tank lighting? 12/13/07 Hi guys and gals. <Hello.>
I am setting up a 110 gallon mushroom tank (no Ricordea) currently
cycled with live rock. My question is concerning lighting. Right now I
am running a twin tube N.O. fixture with a marine glow and a power glow,
40 watts each. I have a 175 watt metal halide fixture that I purchased
from Craig's list for $75, what a steal. The guy gave me two new bulbs
as well, a 175 watt 20000K actinic (unknown brand), <20K spectrum,
not actinic.> a 400 watt Blueline super white. He said that either
bulb would work with the fixture (no brand name on the M.H. fixture just
a really well made hanging pendent fixture made by the local
aquariologist at the aquarium). Which bulb should I use in conjunction
with my N.O. fixture or should I buy another M.H. bulb that would better
suit these creatures? <Either light may work with this fixture
(sounds like all mogul base), but not with the ballast. Assuming the
setup came with a ballast to power the bulb, it will only work with its
rated wattage bulb. 400 watt will be way overkill for mushrooms. 175
will be fine, but you will need two to get an even light spread across
this tank. Good luck, Scott V.>
Re: Mushroom tank lighting? 12/14/07 Yes it came with a ballast .
I took a closer look at the 175 watt bulb it reads "blue line m.h. 175w
20k";.When I plug this one in its extremely blue. Thanks to all you guys
for all the help. <Welcome, glad to help, Scott V.>
Bulkhead Flow Rate And Reef Lighting 12/8/07 Hello, <Hi Terry>
I have a question about bulkhead flow. I have purchased a 90gal AGA with
built in overflow, and I am planning on using a 30 long that I have
picked up for the sump/fuge. I have been looking at different
calculators and I'm all confused now, my question is how much flow can I
get using both the bulkheads that are in the tank to drain? <I have
no idea what size your bulkhead fittings are so that would be difficult
to answer. Are they 1 inch, 1 1/4, etc?> I am planning on doing over
the back returns. <May not be necessary if your drains provide enough
flow.> My other question is about the Current USA SunPod lighting, I
really like the halide shimmer <And I also.> and the LED shimmer
so I thought this lighting would be great but I haven't found many
reviews or if this would be a good light for a reef LPS SPS and maybe a
clam? (sorry I'm referring to the 250w version, it has 2 250w halides
and wh,bl LEDs). <I have a Current SunPod fixture on a smaller
experimental tank. I think the quality and workmanship is very good and
I've experienced no problems with it in over a year. The system you
refer to would be an excellent fixture for a 90 gallon tank allowing you
to keep any light loving corals/clams you desire.> Thanks in
advance, <You're welcome. Do let us know what size your bulkhead
fittings are and we will be able give you a flow rate for these. James
(Salty Dog)> Terry
Reef Lighting 12/8/07 To The WWM Crew <Hi Flavio> In order
to have some glitter lines in my 450 litre tank, I am thinking to add
two or three halogen (4000 K) lamps mixed with the 6 T5 fluorescents
that are installed at the moment. Do you think it will affect the corals
life quality? <Shouldn't, as long as the T-5's are going strong.>
I have Fungia, Sarcophyton, Favia, 2 Turbinaria, an Hydnophora, a
Pectinia and two Euphyllias, all of them growing and living since
several years only with fluorescent lamps. Thank you for your help.
<I don't think you are going to like the look the 4K bulbs will produce.
It will give the tank a yellow look, yuk. James (Salty Dog)>
Flavio
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