Lighting, reef  5/3/08
Hi everyone,
<Marc.>
I have doing a lot of research on your website, and it has helped me out a lot.
<Great!>
I have been reading up on lighting and I still can't find a straight answer to my question. I have a 75 gallon fowler tank, and I'm starting to look into doing some corals. I have been careful not to add any fish to the aquarium that are not compatible.
<It is a good practice to research and plan stocking.>
The tank is still new, about 8 weeks, and the livestock seems to be doing well, now that I fixed the problem of fish jumping out of the tank!
<Oops!>
Currently I have a Coralife PC with two 65 watt 10,000k bulbs. I am looking to replace the light, even for just looks alone, but I figured, if I'm going to switch, I should look into to getting a light for corals now.
<More planning ahead, awesome!>
I was really hoping to get either a PC fixture with 4 65watt 10'000k bulbs, or a T5 fixture with 4 55 watt HO bulbs. Are either of this adequate for any corals, and if so, which ones?
<Lower light corals such as zoos, most soft corals and many LPS will work with this lighting.>
And how about for anemones?
<No, you will need about twice this amount of light, more for some species. Even with adequate lighting it is a good idea to skip the anemone unless you want a tank nearly dedicated to one.>
That is the other route I was looking to take. And how long should I wait to add corals or anemones if I have the right light? Or am I all set now that the water quality is where it should be?
<I will have to take your word the water quality is good. The another big factor with a newer tank is stability. Assuming both these are there you will be ready to start adding corals if you wish, do so slowly.>
Thanks
Marc
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Reef Lighting 4/26/08
My head is spinning trying to make sense of lighting ... I have a 95 gallon wave aquarium (very similar to the standard 90 gallon). I am looking at a fixture which has 2 x 150 watt HQI's and 4 54 watt
T5 HO's for accent lighting along with some lunar lights.
<A nice combo.>
Would this be sufficient to house softies, LPS, SPS and clams if placement is done carefully.
<Yes, with careful placement as mentioned.>
The reason I'm looking at this fixture is I'm really trying to cut down on the amount of heat so I can avoid a chiller.
<I hear you, a constant battle to avoid a chiller!>
Thanks for any info
Tim
<This combo will work out fine. Keep in mind the 10000K bulbs will give you more usable light out of these 150’s than the higher K bulbs, this can make a huge difference in success with this lighting. Welcome, Scott V.>

Coral Glue And Coral Light Absorption (Photoperiod) – 04/12/08
Awhile ago I got a couple of corals that came with a silicone type glue that mounted them to the rock. At the time, I didn't think it would be so good and don't recall where I got these corals. This glue bonds to rock just by placing it on top of it. I have tried to locate this material at all the tropical shops in my area but no one carries it or knows what it is. It is not "super glue" or putty - it stays flexible and doesn't need to be reapplied. Can you help? What is it and where can I get it?
<<I can only guess, but there are some better “underwater epoxies” that remain flexible. These products form a molecular bond that is quite tenacious. They’re quite pricey too…at around $50 per quart>>
On the coral's light absorption - how many hours of light do they really need daily using optimum lighting?
<<”Optimum lighting” will vary by species…but lighting in the tropics where most all specimens we strive to keep hail from averages a bit more than 12-hours per day…and at an intensity we can only dream of replicating>>
Does it vary by type of coral?
<<Indeed>>
I have polyp types, leathers, frogspawns, elegance and coral plates. Thank you.
<<I suggest you provide a lighting period of somewhere between 10 and 14 hours per day…depending on quality/intensity of the lighting. EricR>>

Re: Setting Up 110 Gallon Reef System... Why not read?  03/22/2008
Hello Again Crew,
Mystery man, Ron here again.
<<Hello again, Andrew today>>
I have attached your last reply to me. You have addressed all of my concerns, so far. I hope this is the last one???
<<Ask as many as you like>>
Here's my question for you. I have decided not to hold off on getting my lighting system. The tank is a 110 gallon 48 Lx 18 W x 30 D. It is going to be a reef system with no SPS. I do want to be able to keep Clams, LPS, soft corals and of course inverts..
<<Sounds good>>
Now, I needed your suggestions. I have looked at the Outer Orbit HQI + HO T 5, 2 x 150 10K HQI, 4 x 54 T 5 actinic, 18 lunar and the Obit HQI-Metal Halide & Actinic Power Compact 2 x 150 10K HQI , 2 x 130CP actinic, 6 lunar lights. Would either of these supply enough light and do I not need to use Halides at all? I want a nice looking system when the lights are on at a reasonable price. I am not stuck on the Orbit brand, so if there is some other brand you prefer, let me know.
<<With the depth of your tank, 30 inches, i think it would be best to go with a halide system if you want good light penetration down to the bottom of the tank. Something like a 2 x 250w or even 2 x 400w system would be a good choice in my opinion as depending on the type of clam you want, some prefer to placed on the bottom of the tank..>>
The whole crew has been great at answering my questions and in record time.
Thank Again, Ron
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Lighting? 3/10/08
I have a 90 gallon marine aquarium that is 25 inches tall. Is four 54 watt HO T-5 bulbs enough light for this tank with low light corals and an anemone?
<This will be a little low for the anemone, I would add another two or more bulbs in the daylight (10K) spectrum for the lower light anemones, some will require the leap to metal halides. You will need to research the specific species of anemone you want to keep for its lighting requirements and compatibility with whichever corals you want to keep with it, generally not a good idea to mix.>
If not, what is your suggestions for additional light? Tanks a lot!
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>

Lighting... 75 reef...  03/09/2008
Hi crew,
<<Hello Ron, Andrew today>>
my question is about getting the most bang for my buck when it comes to lighting. My tank is a 75 gallon ,with protein skimmer, refugium,
and live rock. The fish that occupy the tank are a potters angel, leopard wrasse, yellow tang, two percula clowns, and two Bubbletip anemones that have divided several times. My current lighting is a four bulb t5 system. I was considering increasing the light for the anemones, and would like know if it would be a good idea to go with metal halide lights or a six bulb t5 lighting system some of my concern is overheating. Thanks Ron
<<The answer, in my opinion, would be to upgrade to either 150w or even 250w metal halide unit. This will remove near enough all limitations on stocking capabilities. Heat wise, a simple clip on fan from a DIY store would suffice, blowing across the water surface.>>
<<Hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Reef Lighting 2/28/08
Evening Crew,
<Good morning here.>
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with all of us.
<You're welcome.>
You all were of great help as I selected my pumps and skimmer. I went with an Iwaki MD-40rxlt for my closed loop, an Eheim 1262 for my sump and the EuroReef RS-100 skimmer. I'm getting to ready fill with water and LR and want to start preparing to upgrade the current 48" Top Aquaria Series light that contains 3 10k 36w bulbs.
I have an 80gl bowfront tank in which I plan on stocking with a combination of LPS (Frogspawn, Hammer Coral) and SPS (Montipora capricornis, Acropora), Zoanthids, a BTA,
<Would not put the BTA in a coral system.>
xenia, leathers and a clam or 2. I've tried to read up on lighting requirements but am just not sure which way to head. All the lighting options and wattage ratings are confusing me. Can you simplify the pros/cons of MH vs. T5? If I go T5, will 6 54w bulbs be enough? If I go with MW, will 2 150w with T5 actinics be enough? I'm hoping to just make one purchase and not have to upgrade in a year.
My only current experience with lighting is> currently a 24" Corallife pc with actinics and lunar LEDs on my 20gl. I really enjoy the variable lighting from dusk to dawn and the faint lighting in the evening from the LEDs. However, I've been considering upgrading the 20gl as well so I can add a wider variety of corals.
<Do read here and linked files above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
Thanks in advance.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Reef Lighting, metal halide and livestock requirements  2/19/08
Hi,
<Hi Jay>
Great website and I have enjoyed researching on it.
<Thank you.>
I have a quick question on a newly acquired system that I got from a friend of mine that was moving.
It is a standard 75g, 48Lx18Wx20H. It has a dual Hamilton ReefStar unit with two 150w HQI DE 14K bulbs in a wood canopy (2 fans, one pulling and one pushing). The protective glass under the bulbs is about 10" from the waters surface. It also has a retro unit consisting of 2-96w PC bulbs mounted in the top of the hood, but they are about 12" from the surface, hence I'm thinking the PC's are not going to be much benefit being so far up.
<Not too much with a 20" deep tank. Can you lower the hood anyway?>
My question is on livestock with the dual 150w HQI's: Would a couple of blue/green Crocea Clams/ Blue Maximas and a few SPS do well in the middle to upper part of this tank? I also plan on having some Zoanthids, Ricordea, and LPS like Frogspawn, Hammer, and Acans. It would be a slightly mixed reef, with less emphasis on the clams and SPS, maybe 1-2 clams and 5-8 SPS. Thanks for your great work and help.
<Clams seem to prefer being on the bottom, preferably on a sandy substrate. In this regard, considering the depth of your tank and lighting placement, I'd go with either Derasa or Squamosa Clams which do not require the lighting intensity that the Maximas do. Any SPS should be kept in the upper third of the tank. Read here for more info on clams. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/Clam_care/Clam_care.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Jay

Lighting a 65 Gallon Reef 2/13/08
Hello,
I've found your website very helpful for many things, and have searched it over and found many conflicting opinions on lighting.
<Lighting a reef has personal preference as a component, hence the differing opinions.>
I realize that there is no "right" answer, but I was looking for an opinion on this specific tank. I plan on setting up a 65 gallon tank with sump, skimmer, approximately 100 pounds of liverock and a 4 inch sandbed.
<Sounds like a nice setup.>
Right now I have mostly LPS and some soft corals in a smaller tank, but in the new setup I would like to experiment with some Montipora and clams. A lot of the articles seem to prefer VHO, HO etc. fluorescent lighting, but I worry about the light penetration from these lights in a 24" deep tank.
<With enough bulbs fluorescents will work fine. Perhaps consider a T5 fixture with six or so 39W bulbs.>
Would metal halides be my best bet?
<It is definitely a viable option.>
If so, would a 250 Watt HQI IceCap Pendant be sufficient?
<Definitely, the problem is that these tanks generally have a plastic center brace. If it does you will likely want two Halides to avoid casting an unsightly shadow in the tank. In this case I recommend two 150W units. If you have no center brace one 250 will be perfect. The center brace will not be an issue with fluorescents.>
With no hood on the tank, would heat buildup be an issue if hung approx. 12" off the surface?
<You will have more heat imparted into the water with halides, but you can help this out with a fan blowing between the surface of the water and the light. You may need a chiller depending on the ambient temperature in your area and your other equipment; it is possible you may need one anyway without the halide.>
What bulb would you recommend?
<Again, this is greatly personal preference. I like the 10K offerings out there, they give more usable light for your money spent on electricity without looking too yellow for my taste.>
Thank you.
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>

Re: Need Lighting Help... reef  01/25/2008
Hi Andrew,
<<Tiffany...>>
Thank you very much for the timely response. I have been contemplating between two lighting systems.... the first obviously has more wattage and is a big more expensive, but the second one has built in timers which I thought was a great feature. Both have individual
reflectors which I thought would be good for the light intensity. Any opinions or have you heard anything on either of these fixtures?
48" Nova Extreme Pro 6x54watt --> 359.00
48 inch Current USA SunDial T5 HO 4x54W w/ Timers & LED --> 269.99
<<Both are good lighting fixtures. My preference would be the Nova extreme out of the two, I feel this is a very good choice although, yes, you would have to buy timers too. The Sundial, although cheap is 100w less and I feel the extra 100w form the Nova pretty much covers you in lighting requirements to keep a huge selection of coral in the tank>>
Thanks! Tiffany
<<Thanks for the feedback, reply.. A Nixon>>

Lighting Overkill? 1/23/08
I currently have a 65 gallon, 36x18x24, I already have 2 150W halides with 20K radium bulbs. I would like to upgrade to a system that has 2 250W 10K halides with 4 T5 actinics. This would give me around 656W, but that is over 10 watts a gallon. I plan on housing more sps and clams in the future. Should I stick with this idea or go with a less wattage of halide, like 2 175W mogul with T5's.
<I would be inclined to stay with your current fixture with bulbs in a better (10K) spectrum.>
I currently have DE bulbs and the lighting in question has DE bulbs. I currently have just polyps, some micromussa, a tort, purple fuzzy and a BTA. Would like clams to live in the tank, 2 died under the 150W's.
<Not enough “usable” light with the 20K.>
I'm having a big problem deciding. Thanks for your patience. Also, no heat issues right now, but will I have serious heat issues if I do go with the 250's,
<Quite possible.>
Thanks
<You will realize a large increase in light your corals/clams can use with the simple switch to a lower wattage bulb. Two 250W would be overkill in my opinion considering it is a three foot tank and the lights will overlap quite a bit. The 175W would be fine, but again different bulbs in the 150W fixture would be the way to go considering the lighting will overlap. Check out the link below, noting the difference in PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density; what your corals use) between the 10K and 20K bulbs. Welcome, hope this helps you decide, Scott V.>
 

Best Lighting? 1/21/08 Hello, <Hello Tom.> I have a four year old 20 gallon setup with the following livestock: maroon clown yellow-tailed blue damsel coral banded shrimp feather duster star polyps torch coral birdsnest xenia zoanthids Palythoa 2 acropora (ora roscoe and a brown one received at MACNA this year) Pavona snails (Cerith, margarita, and Nassarius) Oxypora (frag 1 inch) <Wow, one busy 20 gal.> Hardware: 24" Coralife PC (one 65watt 10,000K and one 65watt 50/50) Hydor Koralia #1 Sea Clone 100 (I modified it to be a needle wheel and adjusted the collection cup.) I would like to purchase a HQI light for my tank, so I can add more SPS and get the best color out of them but I do not want a chiller and can not hang the light from the ceiling (because I rent). I would like to know in your opinion what would be the best possible fixture for me? I was looking at the 24" SunPod with a 14K 150 watt bulb but it would have to sit on the mounting pegs it comes with and I did not want to "cook" my tank. Is there other options for me to get the best lighting or should I stick with what I have do to my tank volume? <Depending on the ambient temperature you may be able to run the MH, but there is always the chance this will push you into needing a chiller, especially on such a small system. I would either stick with what you have (it is working, right?) or look into some of the T5 fixtures out there if you want more intensity from your light. The PCs you have can sustain what you list, of course with the SPS closer to the light.> I appreciate your help! Thank you, Tom (enclosed is a picture of my current setup as of today 1/22/2008) <Welcome, this looks like a nice system, you may need more room as everything grows! I hope this helps you decide, good luck, Scott V.>

Reef Lighting Upgrade…Do I need It? – 01/11/08
I have a 75 gallon reef system which houses a variety of LPS, soft corals and Zoanthids.
<<Okay>>
I currently have two 175 watt 15000K metal halides providing the light for this setup.
<<I see>>
While this, to me, seems more than sufficient,
<<Agreed>>
I was recently tempted by an advertisement for an Odyssea Metal Halide system with two 250 watt HQI's and four 65 watt compact fluorescents with lunar LED's all for a very modest price.
<<Mmm, more light than you need I suspect…and do be aware, you get what you pay for…>>
The metal halides I currently use are nothing special, a retro kit I got online,
<<Nothing wrong with retro kits…>>
so I assume I won't be deviating too far from where I am currently regarding quality.
<<Not necessarily… Personally, I am leery of this product/vendor>>
Unfortunately, my current budget wouldn't allow a "name brand" higher quality lighting setup.
<<Best to stick with DIY fixtures built from “retro” kits then…in my opinion. You “can” go too cheap…>>
My main question is whether or not a 760 Watt lighting package can be maintained in a tank such as mine or will this level of lighting do more harm than good to my coral inhabitants?
<<I don’t think you need it. If you have a desire for more intensity/PAR…this can easily be attained by replacing the 15000K lamps with lamps of a lower Kelvin. If you’re worried about losing that “blue” look, spend those bucks on some T5 fixtures with Actinic lamps to add to the existing lighting>>
My tank is an open top and, without running fans, it stays between 77 and 80 degrees.
<<Going to a higher wattage MH bulb may change this>>
How much temperature increase should I expect if I were to upgrade?
<<Hard to say… Will depend much on currently airflow, ambient room temperature…>>
Thanks for your insight and advice.
<<Hope it’s been of use. Regards, EricR>>

Re: Reef Lighting Upgrade...Do I need It? - 01/12/08
As always, thanks for the fast response.
<<Quite welcome>>
I realize that 760 watts is overkill for my tank,
<<Indeed>>
but do you feel it would harm the inhabitants, or is it simply more light than I need?
<<More than you need… The current inhabitants could likely be acclimated to more light…but that doesn’t mean they would “prosper” under more light than they need/can make use of. It is not unusual for deeper water specimens (Corallimorphs, some LPS species, etc.) to lose color/turn brown under lighting that is too intense/more intense than that in their natural surrounds>>
Thanks again for your help!
<<Cheers… EricR>>

Reef Lighting 1/10/08
Hello,
<Hi Renee>
Again, I find myself confused about something and needing a steer or two in the proper direction.
<We can do that.>
I have a 75 gallon Tru Vu Aquarium (4' long...standard sized) with an overflow built down the center (wrong spot for an overflow, IMHO, but it works for me), and the first question is if the lighting is sufficient. I have a wet/dry, Bak Pak skimmer, heaters and various powerheads in the tank, as well as a hood and stand.
On that tank, I have 2 50/50 96 watt CF 34" bulbs staggered. So, I'm not sure if each bulb contains 192 watts or 96 watts.
<Each lamp is 96 watts for a total wattage of 192.>
What I grow in there are Colt, polyps, mushrooms and Condys.
<No where near enough light to satisfy a Condy, and may not be enough for the Colt Coral.>
In my next tank, a 29 gallon standard sized aquarium, I have no lighting as of yet. What will go in there is almost anything I can put in. I have an opportunity for a 150 watt HQI Pendant. I would add to that a T5 strip with one blue one white, if necessary. What kinds of corals would I be limited to if I go with this setup? Can I put a BTA in there and would it be sufficient lighting for it?
<A 150 watt HQI would allow you to grow most anything. The 29 is too small for a BTA, water parameters have a better chance of changing in smaller tanks, something the anemones don't tolerate too well. As for the strip light, it would just be in the way and isn't really necessary with the 150 watt HQI. My choice here would be to go with a 14K lamp.>
Last, but not least, I have a 25 tall Eclipse 2 converted system. It has a compact fluorescent double white bulb in front, and a set of T5s in the center, by Corallife, one white, one blue and I have one small CF daylight lamp on the side of it aimed at my BTA which lives in there. I wonder, is that enough light or should I amp that up? Do you have any suggestions as to the type I should place on there or should I just put that BTA into the 29 when it gets going? It is healthy, not bleached at this time.
I am sorry for such stupid questions. I am not only a novice, but being a woman, I don't deal with lighting very often. In freshwater systems, it's so much simpler.:)
Renee, I'd like you to read these links and related articles contained within. This will help you understand reef lighting requirements and also the needs/systems for keeping anemones. And, being a woman has nothing to do with succeeding in this hobby.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
I thank you ahead of time for your expertise.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you,
Renee

New Setup, Marine Lighting 1/10/08
Hi,
<Hello>
I have another question: I am setting up me new 150G tank (60x24x24) and I am trying to figure out what type of light would work best for me. I have a very good water flow (20 times+) and two 90G refugia for nutrient transport and food generation so I hope that I don't need to go crazy with light.
<Depends on what you want to keep.>
I am considering two options:
1. 432W (8x54W bulbs) Current USA Nova Extreme T5 HO fixture (or similar
T5 HO system)
2. 3 x 175W MH reflectors.
I am going to start slow with adding livestock but will probably end up with a small number of fish and reef garden so basically I would like to be able to grow most things.
<The first option will be fine for most corals, but if you want to keep really light demanding corals the MHs will be necessary.>
Also, I would like to minimize the electricity consumption and would like to have a system that has most flexibility to modify as needed (e.g. adding more light bulbs as the tank matures and the light needs increase).
<Either setups should be all you would ever need.>
Could you please advise if Option #1 would be sufficient?
<Depends on the specific corals you wish to keep, most would do fine under either setup.
See these links for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm , http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm , and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm .>
Thanks again,
John.
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Yet another lighting upgrade question 12/30/07
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hi Jason!>
Let me start by letting you know how much I appreciate all of the useful information you freely give to your readers. I can only imagine how many aquarium critters you’ve saved.
<Thank you.>
Now a little background information – I currently have a 55 gallon flat back hex acrylic aquarium with 4 55w PC lamps. Right now I’ve got a Candy Cane Coral, Frogspawn and a Pulsing Xenia. All of them are placed in the upper 2/3 of the tank. I believe that my current lighting is enough to sustain these corals, but they may not truly thrive (I do feed the Candy Can and Frogspawn every other day).
For the New Year I’d like to upgrade my lighting system; I’d really like to go the HQI metal halide route and maybe use 2 of the PC lamps for supplemental actinic lighting. However, with my canopy closed I only have 4 ¾ inches from the top of the aquarium to the canopy (the shape of the flat back hex canopy has also proven to be problematic for lamp placement). My concern is that the heat output from the MH lamps will be a problem; especially given the fact that it’s an acrylic aquarium. Removing the canopy and using a pendant really isn’t an option.
<With that kind of height restriction I am concerned about the same issues.>
An alternative would be to go with 4 or 6 - 36” 39W T5 bulbs instead of the MH lamps; I may not gain as much intensity or any shimmering as with MHs but I’ve read that T5 lamps do not need to be replaced as often as PCs and that they are more energy efficient…which could potentially offset the cost of the upgrade.
<Eventually.>
I realize that the inhabitants I wish to keep are really the driving force behind my lighting; first and foremost I just want to ensure that my current corals are happy with an eye on the future (my crystal ball tells me anemones and clams are not in my future).
<Possibly a clam higher up in the tank with the T5’s, if you have the real estate. Anemones no.>
I have read through your site regarding lighting, but I would really just like a little hand-holding on my lighting decision.
<Your current lighting is adequate for what you have, but the T5’s sure wouldn’t hurt. Be sure to invest in units with individual bulb reflectors.>
I would appreciate any insight you can give me on my upgrade options. Thank you and I hope all of the WWM Crew a wonderful New Year!
Jason
<Happy New Year to you too. Have fun with your new project, Scott V.>

Mushroom tank lighting? 12/13/07
Hi guys and gals.
<Hello.>
I am setting up a 110 gallon mushroom tank (no Ricordea) currently cycled with live rock. My question is concerning lighting. Right now I am running a twin tube N.O. fixture with a marine glow and a power glow, 40 watts each. I have a 175 watt metal halide fixture that I purchased from Craig's list for $75, what a steal. The guy gave me two new bulbs as well, a 175 watt 20000K actinic (unknown brand),
<20K spectrum, not actinic.>
a 400 watt Blueline super white. He said that either bulb would work with the fixture (no brand name on the M.H. fixture just a really well made hanging pendent fixture made by the local aquariologist at the aquarium). Which bulb should I use in conjunction with my N.O. fixture or should I buy another M.H. bulb that would better suit these creatures?
<Either light may work with this fixture (sounds like all mogul base), but not with the ballast. Assuming the setup came with a ballast to power the bulb, it will only work with its rated wattage bulb. 400 watt will be way overkill for mushrooms. 175 will be fine, but you will need two to get an even light spread across this tank. Good luck, Scott V.>

Re: Mushroom tank lighting? 12/14/07
Yes it came with a ballast . I took a closer look at the 175 watt bulb it reads "blue line m.h. 175w 20k";.When I plug this one in its extremely blue. Thanks to all you guys for all the help.
<Welcome, glad to help, Scott V.>

Bulkhead Flow Rate And Reef Lighting 12/8/07
Hello,
<Hi Terry>
I have a question about bulkhead flow. I have purchased a 90gal AGA with built in overflow, and I am planning on using a 30 long that I have picked up for the sump/fuge. I have been looking at different calculators and I'm all confused now, my question is how much flow can I get using both the bulkheads that are in the tank to drain?
<I have no idea what size your bulkhead fittings are so that would be difficult to answer. Are they 1 inch, 1 1/4, etc?>
I am planning on doing over the back returns.
<May not be necessary if your drains provide enough flow.>
My other question is about the Current USA SunPod lighting, I really like the halide shimmer
<And I also.>
and the LED shimmer so I thought this lighting would be great but I haven't found many reviews or if this would be a good light for a reef LPS SPS and maybe a clam? (sorry I'm referring to the 250w version, it has 2 250w halides and wh,bl LEDs).
<I have a Current SunPod fixture on a smaller experimental tank. I think the quality and workmanship is very good and I've experienced no problems with it in over a year.
The system you refer to would be an excellent fixture for a 90 gallon tank allowing you to keep any light loving corals/clams you desire.>
Thanks in advance,
<You're welcome. Do let us know what size your bulkhead fittings are and we will be able give you a flow rate for these. James (Salty Dog)>
Terry

Reef Lighting 12/8/07
To The WWM Crew
<Hi Flavio>
In order to have some glitter lines in my 450 litre tank, I am thinking to add two or three halogen (4000 K) lamps mixed with the 6 T5 fluorescents that are installed at the moment. Do you think it will affect the corals life quality?
<Shouldn't, as long as the T-5's are going strong.>
I have Fungia, Sarcophyton, Favia, 2 Turbinaria, an Hydnophora, a Pectinia and two Euphyllias, all of them growing and living since several years only with fluorescent lamps.
Thank you for your help.
<I don't think you are going to like the look the 4K bulbs will produce. It will
give the tank a yellow look, yuk. James (Salty Dog)>
Flavio