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FAQs about Coral et al. Cnidarians System
Lighting: Quality, Quantity & Duration
Related Articles:
Coral
Lighting: what we know and what we don't know (mostly the latter)
by Sara Mavinkurve
Lighting Reef Systems:
Considerations, Organisms, Goals and Costs by Bob FennerLight/Lighting For Marine Systems,
Coral Feeding, LPS Corals,
True or Stony Corals, Order Scleractinia,
Propagation for Marine Aquarium Use,
Related FAQs: Coral Lighting 1,
Coral Lighting 2, Coral
Lighting 3, Coral Lighting 4, &
FAQs on Coral Lighting:
Science/Application, Designs/Fixtures,
Lamps/Bulbs, Night-Time,
Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Makes/Models/Manufacturers, &
Lighting Marine Inverts 1, Lighting
Marine Inverts 2,
Lighting Marine Inverts 3, Lighting
Marine Inverts 4, Lighting Marine
Inverts 5, Lighting Marine Inverts 6,
& LR Lighting,
Fluorescent Light 1,
Actinic Lighting,
Compact Fluorescents, Metal Halide
Lighting, Lighting Marine
Invertebrates, Growing
Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Identification, Stony
Coral Behavior, | 
An Acroporid in Borneo
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Lux Meter 8/21/09
Hi Crew:
<Hello Bonnie.>
Have a quick question regarding Lux meters. I am thinking about
purchasing the Lux Light Meter put out by Milwaukee Instruments. Have
any of you had any experience with this brand Lux meter?
<I own, have used this unit.>
If this is not a reliable brand, could you recommend one please. Many
thanks as always.
Bonnie
<It works fine for the purposes of a home aquarist. As I said I had
bought one a while back, and would again should I find myself in the
market.
Welcome, Scott V.>
Coral Glue And Coral Light Absorption (Photoperiod) – 04/12/08
Awhile ago I got a couple of corals that came with a silicone type glue
that mounted them to the rock. At the time, I didn't think it would be
so good and don't recall where I got these corals. This glue bonds to
rock just by placing it on top of it. I have tried to locate this
material at all the tropical shops in my area but no one carries it or
knows what it is. It is not "super glue" or putty - it stays flexible
and doesn't need to be reapplied. Can you help? What is it and where can
I get it?
<<I can only guess, but there are some better “underwater
epoxies” that remain flexible. These products form a molecular bond that
is quite tenacious. They’re quite pricey too…at around $50 per quart>>
On the coral's light absorption - how many hours of light do they really
need daily using optimum lighting?
<<”Optimum lighting” will vary by
species…but lighting in the tropics where most all specimens we strive
to keep hail from averages a bit more than 12-hours per day…and at an
intensity we can only dream of replicating>>
Does it vary by type of
coral?
<<Indeed>>
I have polyp types, leathers, frogspawns,
elegance and coral plates. Thank you.
<<I suggest you provide a
lighting period of somewhere between 10 and 14 hours per day…depending
on quality/intensity of the lighting. EricR>>
Is My Normal Output Fluorescent Lighting Suitable for Anemone and
Corals? (The Short Answer Is…No) – 02/12/08
Hello,
<<Hiya,
Joan!>>
I read and then reread your article on lighting.
<<And?...>>
I have used Vita-Lites for many many years and thought
they would be fine for my introduction of inverts, an anemone to start
with, and maybe a coral or two.
<<Mmm, you will need to be more
specific than “a coral or two”…and some specifics about your tank would
be a big help too...oh, and do read up on our site re anemone
systems/mixing with sessile inverts (not recommended). As for the
Vita-Lites…these are a great “daylight” spectrum fluorescent bulb, but
being a NO (Normal Output) bulb you need a fair number of them over the
tank, with actual “numbers” depending on the light-requirements of the
organisms you plan to keep. And while it is possible to keep some coral
species under NO fluorescent lighting (I did so back in the
late-eighties and early-nineties), I don’t recommend this for keeping
Anemones>>
The Fish Store says No, I need MORE.
<<Without more
information/detail re your system and its proposed inhabitants, I must
agree…and I certainly do where the Anemone is concerned>>
I.e. 10K
etc and recommend the Coralife compacts.
<<You don’t “need” 10K
bulbs; these are usually suggested because they provide a “balance”
between what is suitable for/useable to the photosynthetic organisms and
what is pleasing to the human eye. In fact, if you like or prefer a
lower Kelvin temperature (e.g. – 5500K – 6500K), these will generally
provide a better output/PAR rating watt-for-watt than the higher Kelvin
temperature bulbs. A mix of 10K and 6.5K bulbs provides far more
intensity, as well as light in the more “useful” wavelengths, than a mix
of 10K and Actinic bulbs>>
I am sure they are great, but do I really
need that much light?
<<The answer here likely is, yes…I am doubtful
your NO fluorescent bulbs will support an anemone>>
Especially when a
retrofit is $200+ on sale.
<<Unfortunately, the price of lighting
suitable for keeping many/most of the reef-associated photosynthetic
organisms often proves to be as much as one-third the cost of the entire
reef system. If you do decide to upgrade, I would like to recommend T5
fluorescent lighting over the PC fluorescent lighting. Not that the PCs
can’t work, but the T5 is better technology in my opinion, and has
greater bulb selection/allows more flexibility over the PCs. The smaller
size of the T5s will also allow more bulbs to be fitted/placed over any
given tank size>>
Please drop me a short note with your ideas.
<<You have my thoughts…do write me back if you wish to discuss further>>
Joan in Seattle
<<Regards, EricR in Columbia>>
Reef Lighting and Kelvin Ratings 10/27/05
Hello and thank you
in advance for your needed help!
<Hi Jon, and umm…your welcome in
advance.>
I am currently thinking of expanding my horizons of
aquarium size and have a lighting dilemma. The tank that I am
getting is 180 gallons which is 72x24x24. On my current tank I am
running one 10k 250w AB HQI with VHO actinic. My livestock is a
mixed garden (including SPS and clams) to say the very least.
<Ok, so a shallow water biotope.>
My questions are the following:
would one more equal halide fixture be sufficient on a tank that
size; or would three be better?
<Three is the recommended number
if you want to continue with the SPS and Clams. One bulb per 24” of
tank length is a general recommendation.>
Also I am considering
moving from 10k to 20k (also in the AB line of products) in order to
achieve a bluish white color. Would my mixed garden corals suffer
from this regiment of lighting; or should I remain on the path that
I am currently following?
<Mmm, photosynthetic animals prefer
lighting in the 6.5K to 10K spectrum so out of three of your bulbs I
wouldn’t go all 20K. 14K at the most, but honestly 10K with VHO
actinic supplementation is the best way to go in my opinion. Maybe
you could mix bulbs, a 20K on the middle with 10K on the ends. Its
your choice in the end, and you probably could get away with 20K but
some animals may have to be left out and expect slower growth.>
Do you have any further suggestions of how I can achieve the “look”
for my aquarium that I am seeking?
<Just the above.>
Thank you
very much for your time and expertise. It is greatly appreciated!
Respectfully,
Jon
<You are welcome, Adam J.> Re: Reef
Lighting, Kelvin Ratings
Hi Adam J,
<Hello again.>
In response to my question (see below) on PC lighting you indicated
that I should replace one of my Dual Actinic so as to get 3:1 ratio.
<Yes that's right, with your current lighting set-up and considering
the photosynthetic animals you are targeting I would not use more
than one full actinic bulb.>
(I currently have 2 65Watt Dual
Actinic and 2 65watt Dual Daylight). I was wondering the reason
behind that
<Photosynthetic animals generally prefer lighting in
the 6500K to 10,000K spectrum.>
but apart from that what type of
PC should I replace it with i.e. 6700K, 7100K or another Dual
Daylight (6700K & 10000K).
<Either of those sounds fine.>
Finally can I still achieve the 3:1 ratio by replacing both Dual
Actinic and with 2 Actinic/10000K bulbs.
<That would probably be
fine as well.>
I want the remaining actinic to be spread evenly
throughout the aquarium.
<I understand.>
Many Thanks
<You are welcome.>
PS: You all - Bob, James, Adam, Marian (sp),
<<Marina. -SCF>>
Anthony, Blundell, Ali, Eric etc. do a
FANTASTIC service for hobbyists and the industry as a whole. I know
I would be lost without your free expert opinions. Much Kudos to
ALL of you - Happy Holidays!
<We all thank you for compliments
and hope that your holiday is joyous as well, Adam J.> |
Light for Coral in Quarantine - 8/15/03
Thanks for the help in
advance. I have read with diligence the info concerning quarantining
corals and invertebrates. Great idea!
<yes... very necessary to
prevent the introduction of pests, parasites, and diseases>
Read
about lighting, but have a concern. Some distributors of corals make
(SPS especially) make an effort to tell you about their lighting system
and how the corals need specific intensity. Some even go to the effort
of suggesting locations in term of depth to light.
It is very
helpful that they share the params under which they grew their product>
How can you replicate this in the quarantine tank by normal florescent
lighting?
<easily my friend... do realize that the PAR of many
fluorescent lights in 4-10" of a shallow QT tank (say 10 or 20 gall) can
easily compare to that of a MH at depth (12-24"). Most MHs can only
deliver 25% or less light read at the surface to the bottom third of the
aquarium. And even in cases where you cannot meet the arbitrary high
standards of the source, know that QT is not at all about matching these
params. Cnidarians can easily be fed to compensate for a lack of
lighting (as in QT)... interestingly, the reverse is not true. You
cannot make up for a lack of food with extra lights (as some SPS maniacs
with 400 and 1000 watt halides seem to think). Corals feed by absorption
or organismally. Discover which yours responds to easier and simply kept
it fed well under moderate lighting in QT. No worries about color
changes... they will come back under bright light. Its just as well,
since even bright light corals must suffer the darkness of extended
transit for delivery. In some cases, resumed bright lights would be
stressful. Great question... best regards, Anthony> Lighting
Hi guys!
I have another question as usual. When I want to purchase a
coral for my tank, I look to see if I can meet it's lighting
requirements. How many watts of light is "low light" or "medium light"
or "high light?"
<there is no hard and fast rule about it... all
depends on water depth and lamp intensity. Still... halides over shallow
water (24" or less) is high light. VHO or PC over 24" or less medium. NO
under almost any circumstance is low light>
I have a 120 reef tank
with 220 watts of PC and 80 watts of NO. Is this considered low to
medium?
<agreed>
Right now I have a colt coral, some yellow
colony anemones, a few different mushrooms, and a bubble tip anemone.
Everything seems to be happy. Sometimes I wonder if the BTA has enough
light.
<also agree and a little weak for the colt to. You are
feeding the colt phytoplankton? If not, scrape algae off glass often,
consider a seagrass refugium and some form of phyto feeding (phyto
reactor or properly used/misused bottled substitute>
If I had to
judge by looks, I'd say yes.
<keep your bulbs clean often>
Thanks
lots! -Becky
<best regards, Anthony> 2/3/03 -
Lighting and coral selection
Hi there, <Howdy. Paul in the
hizouse and messing it up after a few too many tacos for lunch......bad
breath....I mean.>
would 1 36watt PowerCompact and 1 55 watt power
compact light be enough light on a 29gal. <In my opinion that is a very
low amount of light for most corals. Without getting into the weak
"watts per gallon" argument/theory/thing. I would like to see at least 1
more 65watt PC added to that. Anthony Calfo has written a pretty easy to
follow and understand methodology for lighting (So have many others).
Please refer to the following links as well as do a search here in the
google WetWebMedia search tool:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm > tank for toadstool
leather <Maybe too little light for most of the Sarcophytons. Please
look here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyoniids.htm>....finger leather
<depending on what is truly referred to as a finger leather the previous
link also could apply>....mushrooms <I think you could get away with the
lighting you currently have with the corals placed about halfway up your
rock structure. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm>....candy cane coral <Please
see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidae.htm>and green brain coral?
<Definitely would need a bit more light as this coral should be placed
on the substrate with adequate room for expansion. This coral will
inflate itself to not only pan for light sustenance but also as a method
of feeding on physical foods such as mysids and other small meaty food
chunks. Check this area out for more info:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphlliidae.htm> if not which ones
would be ok with that amount of light? <I really hope you can get more
light. Why be limited by less light? Get the most out of the hobby
instead of limiting/settling for a few corals at that light range. I
have seen new fixtures for around 100 bucks or less through mail order
or even DIY projects would be a bit cheaper many options here....since
your tank is still cycling, maybe save some money for more light before
spending on corals. If not I think the mushrooms and maybe a few
zoanthids (beautiful animals can be had from LFS and mail order) may be
your best bet. In some cases with inadequate lighting it is possible to
keep a great many corals through a proper feeding schedule with proper
foodstuffs. This is a more advanced technique and don't recommend to
most aquarists. It is difficult to pull off and requires dedication and
good water chemistry/husbandry practices. More light would be ideal for
the corals you speak of with the exception being the mushrooms>
and
what's the highest the phosphate levels should be?<You would be better
of reading our coverage on www.WetWebMedia.com. This is a rather large
question that cannot be answered briefly in an email. The simple answer
is to control their input into the tank, i.e. use purified water and not
overfeed. I usually find that water changes with good quality source
water, coupled with good protein skimming and the use of a
phosphate-free activated carbon product, will really help control
phosphate problems.>
thanks allot, <Thank you Eric. Keep the
questions coming and have a great day.>
Eric
Coral Lighting
needs
Crew,
<Hi David, Don today>
Would a 48" 4x55W Helios
compact fluorescent fixture be enough in a 75 gallon tank for most
corals? Or is more lighting needed?
<Well David, 'most corals' is
pretty ambiguous. I would say OK for corallimorphs, many polyps, and
some soft corals. Most LPS and SPS would be out. What lighting is
needed? As written before here, you need to know specifics about what
you want to keep. It is difficult (but not impossible) to keep corals
that have strong light needs with those that need lower light in the
same tank. Use available references to find classes of corals that have
the same needs and then progress from there. You will be less frustrated
and the corals you choose will be less likely to die from environmental
conditions.>
Thanks,
David Lighting
Hi <Hello DW>
You guys are providing a great service to the aquatic community. <Much
appreciated>
I am confused on some lighting issues. My tank is
96x24wx26h for 240g with a center bar. I will keep only SPS and
clams. They will be placed at all levels. I have noticed a trend in
your recommendations toward higher wattage for SPS corals. My choices
are 4x400w, 6x250w, or 4x250w MH in the range of 14K. I will not use
actinics. The ballasts will be IceCap. <For clams and SPS corals, I
would go with the 6x250. This will give you a little over six watts per
gallon, and that should be great for your clams/SPS's. James (Salty
Dog)> Thank you for the help. <You're welcome>
DW "Modest"
Lighting...What's In A Name?
Hello,
<Hey! Scott F. here
today!>
First of all, I wanted to tell you that I stopped listening
to my LFS advice after going through your site.
<Well, there are
many fine local fish stores with experienced knowledgeable employees out
there! And we're not the experts on everything, but we do have a
significant body of experience (learned the hard way!), so hopefully we
can be of service to as many fellow hobbyists as possible.>
Your
site is very informative and very well put together. My question is
about lighting. I have been doing a lot of research prior to purchasing
my corals and I try to pay close attention to the lighting requirements.
More often the lighting requirement I find are moderate lighting
requirements. How do you quantify "Moderate"? What does moderate mean?
<Well, I'd characterize "moderate" as being corals that are not as
demanding as high-light-loving Acropora or Porites, but not quite
low-light-loving. Good examples would be some of the LPS corals.>
I
have a 46G bowfront tank with 2 96W PC light which comes down to roughly
3 - 4 watts per gallon. Is this moderate?
<Well, watts per gallon is
not a true measure of intensity, but based on the size of your tank, it
sounds like this qualifies as "moderate".>
I have a candy cane coral
and a green bubble coral. I would
like to get either a Frogspawn or
a Torch Coral but not sure. The LFS told me that I need to get MH
lighting for those animals but they are the same LFS that told me that
79 degrees temp is too hot and that I need a chiller. Plus they sold me
a Powder Blue tang and told me that it will be OK in my environment.
<Okay...now I understand some of your skepticism. In my opinion, you
could keep corals such as Green Star Polyps (Pachyclavularia), Xenia,
Anthelia, etc.>
Now that I am doing more research, Not quite as
gullible. Is my lighting enough to meet the moderate lighting
requirements?
<As above.>
Also, have you ever heard of clown
hosting a torch coral or frogspawn?
<I've seen it a few times; not
all that uncommon, actually.>
Thanks!
Louie
<My pleasure,
Louie! Keep reading, learning and sharing! Regards, Scott F.>
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