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FAQs about Coral et al. Cnidarians System
Lighting: Lamps, Bulbs Related
Articles:
Coral
Lighting: what we know and what we don't know (mostly the latter)
by Sara Mavinkurve
Lighting Reef Systems:
Considerations, Organisms, Goals and Costs by Bob FennerLight/Lighting For Marine Systems,
Coral Feeding, LPS Corals,
True or Stony Corals, Order Scleractinia,
Propagation for Marine Aquarium Use,
Related FAQs: Coral Lighting 1,
Coral Lighting 2, Coral
Lighting 3, Coral Lighting 4, &
FAQs on Coral Lighting:
Science/Application, Designs/Fixtures,
Quality, Duration & Intensity,
Night-Time, Troubleshooting/Fixing,
Makes/Models/Manufacturers, &
Lighting Marine Inverts 1, Lighting
Marine Inverts 2,
Lighting Marine Inverts 3, Lighting
Marine Inverts 4, Lighting Marine
Inverts 5, Lighting Marine Inverts 6,
& LR Lighting,
Fluorescent Light 1,
Actinic Lighting,
Compact Fluorescents, Metal Halide
Lighting, Lighting Marine
Invertebrates, Growing
Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Identification, Stony
Coral Behavior, |
Much to investigate to discern what's available, and the
"better/best" fit for your needs... Do know that there is quite a
difference between lamp makers, and their too-many relabelers... DO
look for input from reliable sources (e.g. Sanjay Joshi, Dana
Riddle) and take into account as much hobbyist (BB) input as you can
stomach, before making the short and long-term (electrical)
investment. |
Basic Coral Lighting 06/04/09
Hello Crew!
Thank you in advance for taking my question(s).
I have a standard 55gal saltwater tank. It is a reef tank with a pair of
Clowns and a tang. I have a couple corals with polyps and mushrooms
growing. I have dual 65 watt 21in fluorescents going.
1. What is the BEST lighting to go with - 10,000K, 6,700K, 50/50, or
straight Blue Actinic?
<If these mushrooms are the only corals you plan to keep, any of the
above should be fine. They're very adaptable. For what it's worth,
natural sunlight is somewhere around 5000K.>
2. How often should you switch out bulbs?
<every 6 months or so>
3. Is the Coralife bulb line a better quality product than say, Current
USA?
<In my opinion, no, not significantly.>
Again, this is just rule of thumb questions.
<If you're interested in specific coral lighting needs, you could start
here:
http://www.asira.org/caresheets
But that's just to give you/people a very rough idea. There is so, so
much debate about coral lighting... it's almost intimidating how many
different methods/opinions there are out there about this subject.>
Thank you again!
<De nada>
Sincerely,
Shawn Rivera
<Best,
Sara M.>
Re: Power Filters ATTN Minh, plus now fluorescent tubes, circ. for
cnidarians 1/14/09
Minh,
<Hello John.>
So now you are fairly familiar with my system and you had asked about my
fluorescent tubes. Well lets just suffice it to say that once before I
had a reef tank and decided to upgrade the lighting already. I purchased
a 260 watt PC fixture. It comes with the usual arrangement of 2 10K
Kelvin lamps and 2 Actinic lamps. Thinking of replacing the actinics
with 10K Kelvin lamps.
<Congratulations on the purchase.>
I know
this is not enough light for SPS or clams or many anemones but I would
like to keep some soft coral like the toadstool. Perhaps an LPS like a
frogspawn.
<Although some Acroporids may actually need higher
intensity illumination, Power Compacts may be sufficient for Montiporas
and LPS if creative aquascaping and coral placement is utilized.>
I
realize that keeping a shrimp with a frogspawn is dangerous so I would
not do it.
<Shrimps in the Lysmata family such as Scarlet Skunk
Cleaner Shrimp (L. amboinensis), Peppermint Shrimp (L. wurdemanni) and
Blood Red Fire Shrimp (L. debelius) are opportunistic scavengers and may
damage coral flesh when going after uneaten food in the coral's oral
disc. Likewise, hermit crabs in the Calcinus <sic> family or crabs in
the Mithrax <sic> family can also do similar damage. Coral Banded Shrimp
(Stenopus hispidus) and "Yellow" or "Dwarf" version (Stenopus
scutellatus) have less of a tendency to do so. Although all of these
species have been housed in many tanks with Euphyllia without issues,
keep in mind of the possibility of damage.>
Also to let you know I
purchased an Eheim 2026 and that should be here next week. So much for
FOWLR. Once you cross over into a reef tanks there is no going back I
guess!
<It is an excellent filter, I suspect you will be happy with
it.>
My only concern now is will 2 Koralia 1's provide enough
circulation for corals that may require I higher flow. I am sure they
are fine for most leathers, the mushroom, polyps, etc. I just have no
experience with Koralias.
< The Hydor Koralia is from the new
generation of low-cost propeller driven pumps that is quite different to
the powerheads and pumps you've used in the past. Instead of generating
a forceful jet of water flow, its large prop and shroud design allows
for a gentle wave pattern that is much more efficient at moving water
than a traditional impeller driven pump. The two Koralia 1's and the
flow from the Eheim 2026 should be sufficient for most of the corals you
intend to keep. Gorgonians are the exception as these requite more flow
but with creative aquascaping and placing the specimen closer to the
powerheads, you can work around the issue. For an excellent read on
efficient flow design in a reef tank, take a look at this article:
"Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light"
(http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/6/aafeature2).>
Thanks again
Minh. I have really enjoyed communicating with you.
John
<You're
welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>
Lighting Question... actinic, reef... temp. lamps 10/14/08
I have read over many of your FAQ's but i still am not sure what to do.
My tank is 48"Lx24"Wx22"D, currently I have a 48" Odyssea 2x 250W DE HQI
20K bulbs, 4x 65W CF Actinic Blue, 6x Bluemoon LED. It hangs approx. 9in
above the water. I switched from 15k to 20k to highlight the corals more
(polyps, purple tree gorgonian, finger leather, spaghetti finger leather
and a carpet anemone. My problem is now i think it is too blue, should I
switch out the 4 Actinic for 4 50/50 or 4 10k CF's?
<I would, yes>
I like the 20k's but I want to make sure there is enough light, I could
switch back to the 15k.
Jason
<You could. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Bob, I've been racking my brain since I switched them over.
Jason
Panek
<Welcome Jas. You can see my comments posted on WWM re
actinics... "whites" are better functionally by far... aesthetically?
BobF>
Lighting, SW, sel. - 7/23/07
I have a reef tank that is 49"
across, 29" front to back and 24" deep. I have 3@400 watt, 20,000 K
halides I run for 9 hours a day. I have 6@ T5 bulbs that are 48" long
that run for 13 hours a day. I have sps, LPSs corals and 5 clams that
are all doing great. I would like to give the best lighting possible to
my corals for maximum health. If you could share with me the type of
bulbs (brand, size , etc. .....),length of time they should be on and
any other pertinent information on lighting that would make them as
healthy as possible it would be greatly appreciated. I least understand
what type (Actinic.6.5 daylight or ?)
<Actinic not necessary...>
of T5 bulbs to use. I have heard the Giesemann T5's are best but ? If
this is true how many of each type would you use? Thanks Al
<...
this sort of information "comes and goes" with new makers/re-labelers,
and time of course. We invariably refer folks to BB's for wide
actual-user input for such gear issues. Please write to "the usual
suspects" (wetwebfotos.com, reefs.org...) re. Bob Fenner>
UV Hazard, Real for Cnidarians? 7/13/03
Seems as though the
consensus among you all is that MH lighting requires some sort of UV
filter.
<not always... depends on the coral you keep. Some need UV to
keep their natural color... others change or suffer due to excess
exposure. Health and vigor issues too. I lean towards allowing UV into
the tank... but not into the room (protect your eyes via a closed
canopy)>
However, I have read elsewhere that MH lighting does not
produce nearly as much UV-A, B or C as the sun and in that context,
shallow living reef creatures can handle it.
<varies by lamp>
I've
got 3 X 175W over a 175 gallon, 24" deep tank (not sure of the brand,
box was unmarked as to manufacturer but they are 10,000K with mogul
base).
<do inquire about bulb brand.. some are just terrible, others
like Ushio/Aqualines and Iwasakis are very good>
Is this a matter of
debate or would you say there is no question regarding UV hazard?
Regards.
<depends entirely on the species being kept and from where
upon the reef it was collected. Most corals are adaptable over time at
any rate. Best regards, Anthony> LFS Opinions and Publication
Truth 9/13/04 (MHs, light, corals)
Good morning, guys!
<cheers>
Please push Ivan away from us here in South Louisiana and
push it farther away from Florida!
<heehee... if only I could>
The last thing they need is more rain! I visited my LFS/LRS, probably
the best one in South Louisiana, yesterday. I had intentions of
purchasing a 6500ºK bulb for a pendant I have, and probably a 175w
10,000K setup for my 58g. They freaked out when I asked for the 6500.
<bizarre... I cannot fathom why>
Now, every book I've read, new and
old, has suggested that lower Kelvin can be advantageous and
economically friendly to some corals.
<exactly... it is THE best
light for a majority of corals>
Information gleaned from
wetwebmedia.com, the best source, IMHO, suggests the same. The owner,
normally a helpful guy, tried to tag team me with a scientific sounding
employee into discovering that 6500 is the way of the dinosaurs and I
should learn from their mistakes and buy the 20,000K.
<wow... not
only are they mistaken, but 20kK is actually not helpful for a majority
of corals... that is to say - used alone, 20k K will suffer many
photosynthetic corals because they lack adequate amounts of daylight in
the spectrum to stimulate adequate photosynthesis.>
I asked how PAR
ratings compare to the "plain-ol'" 6500s and how 20,000 is better, other
than just marketing and personal preference. Grunts and mumbles
followed.
<do a google search for "Sanjay Yoshi" to read some of his
studies and results regarding PAR values>
The scientific guy said he
wouldn't hesitate adding a 400w 20,000K to his nanoreef tank, again
going in the face of anything I've read. What's the opinion from anyone
over there?
<they have caught up in the hype... there is no basis
for using heavy blue/20k K only... quite the contrary for garden reef
displays>
I think Mr. Calfo would have something to say. I would
really like the experienced, non-sales driven opinion here. Once again,
thanks!
Ian
<with kind regards, Anthony> SPS
lighting
Hello Mr Fenner, or whom ever answers :)
<Steven Pro
tonight.>
I have had so many mixed opinions about the kind of
lighting I need for my 75 gallon tank (48X18X22). I want to have SPS at
the top of my rock work. I have this cliff made up and I thought it
would be lovely to have a mixture of SPS there. They would be about
8-12" from the lighting. I want to have all verities of clams as well. I
would also like to have at the dimmer and shady spots of the tank a few
(frogspawn, bubble, open brains) LPS.
I have heard that 2 175watt MH
10K & 2 X 110 VHO actinics will not give all varieties of SPS the light
they need. I have heard that I would be better off with the 2 250watt MH
6,500k w/ PC 96 watt actinics or 2 x 110 watt VHO actinics. If I were to
get the latter I fear burning the LPS.
<I agree. A real concern.>
I am more crazed with the SPS (addicted more like it) and they would be
my main focus. As well as the clams. I guess (though it makes me sad)
that I could do without the LPS if it would be the best for them.
I
guess I am asking is if for a clam and SPS dominated tank, the 175
watter would be to weak.
My tank specs are; 75 gallon drilled, 20
gallon sump with an Euro-reef skimmer, a 20 refugium on 24/7. 5" DSB and
100lbs LR.
Ammo, Nitrites 0, 5-10ppm of nitrates, pH 8.3-8.5, Ca 450,
alk 11dkh (good old calcium reactor!!) temp. 79 degrees, I use only
RO/DI water. The tank is 15 months old. I have two clown fish, three
cleaner shrimp, snails and my DSB dit-kit (worms-o-plenty) and a pajama
Cardinal.
I hope this helps and you won't mind putting up with yet
another lighting question. :) Gracie
<It is my opinion that most
people that need to opt for higher and higher wattage lamps are using
lousy bulbs with a poor spectral distribution. I think the 175's with
10,000K Aqualine-Buschke lamps would be plenty. The best tank I have
ever seen uses this setup. -Steven Pro> Lighting SPS's
Hey guy's, bet you've never heard this one before, but here it goes
anyway. I am breaking down my 75G reef tank and moving it to my 135G
fish only. Obviously, I have found a home for the fish). I currently
illuminate the 75g reef w a 175W-10k MH horizontal pendant (Approx. 18"
x 12") along with 2-40W actinic fluorescents and 4x55W PC 10k. I have
recently discontinued using the pc's as I saw no additional benefit
after a couple of months. My Acros & SPS's are growing very well, but
with little coloration. the tank is 48" L so I suspected from the get-go
that I was under illuminated for these corals.
<You are correct,
sir.>
My question(s) is this: I have acquired 2 additional MH
pendants (10K) and plan to use over the 6 ft. long 135G tank. I also
have 4x30W fluorescents that I plan to use. In your opinion, will this
be enough to color them up--if not, what would you recommend? Your
comments are greatly appreciated.
Fred Evans, Dallas, Texas
<That
should be sufficient lighting. I would strongly suggest using
Aqualine-Buschke or Ushio lamps, either in 10,000K, versus whatever you
are currently using. -Steven Pro> Lighting SPS and Maxima
Clams
All and extra info is appreciated. I have found out from
numerous sources that 440watt VHO is not enough to support sps and
maxima clams for my 75gal 21"deep tank. Is this true?
<borderline
leaning toward true depending on the species of sps kept and the depth
in the tank at which you keep them>
If so I will invest in metal
halides. Do you
suggest 2 250watt bulbs or something different?
<way too much light unless you are keeping the most delicate/difficult
and demanding shallow water species. If instead you are happy with
hardier Montipora species and common Acroporas (brown, green, tan with
some colored tips) then you will be safer and happier with 2-3 175 watt
lamps (10K Ushio or AB recommended if not 3-150 watt 6500 k lamps). Your
tank isn't deep enough to warrant 250 watt lamps for fear of bleaching
any LPS and soft coral you may want to keep as well>
Do I need to
supplement with fluorescents or is the metal halides more than enough?
<more than enough blue in the MH lamps... add only for your aesthetics>
Do I need to hang it from the ceiling or rest it on a canopy?
<better light from a horizontal mount in a canopy... pendants
focus/waster light>
All and extra info is appreciated.
<best
regards, my friend... Anthony Calfo> Lighting
Hi
everyone, Bryan Here.
<Good day sir! Hope you are having a pleasant
holiday weekend.>
Question about lighting for reef tanks. I have a 75
gallon that I am thinking about keeping some soft corals since I am a
beginner in reef setup. Looking at about 260 total watts of lighting,
still not complete because I am still researching and haven't decided
exactly what I want to add. My question is this, I have been looking at
the 48" JBJ Power
Compacts. I have read somewhere though that VHO can
give a more blue/fluorescent look and the corals really stand out.
<IME, VHO actinics are superior to PC blue lighting. There are
supposedly better PC actinics on the market now.>
I personally like
the blue look and was wondering if this is true (about VHO). And if so,
can the power compacts give off a more blue with the right bulbs?
<Yes, perhaps now with true PC actinics on the market.>
Last question
is, do you want/or is it healthy for the tank to have a more bluish
feel/look with the corals.
<It really depends on the corals. Deep
water LPS corals do benefit from actinic lighting, but it can be of
little benefit to shallow water corals. All things in moderation and you
should be ok. No more than 50% of your lighting in actinic for deep
water corals and closer to 25% maximum for shallow water species.>
Thanks for all your help.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Corals Under NO Fluorescents
Hi to you guys there at
www.WetWebMedia.com. I hope you all are well. Two months ago, I started
my saltwater fish tank and I'm very interested in putting corals in, but
I have 5 fluorescent tubes (2 Sylvania coral star blues, 3 normal
daylight tubes) all are 36 watts measuring 180 watts of light over my 55
gallon tank.
<Ok>
I have been told I can put in mushrooms,
zoanthids, Sinularia, Sarcophyton, Lobophytum and some other soft
corals. Is this correct?
<Yes>
Some other websites say that you
can also put in brains, candy, torch coral and tongue corals with my
levels of light (somehow I don't believe this).
<It will depend on
exactly what you mean by these common names. Take brain corals for
example. I house a Trachyphyllia under 160 watts of NO fluorescent in a
55, but I would not attempt a Favia or Favites (also referred to as
brain corals). The Caulastrea (Candy Cane coral) and many of the
Euphyllias (Torch, Hammer, and Frogspawn) would also be ok. Let me
suggest you get a copy of Eric Borneman's "Aquarium Corals" as a
reference. It is excellent.>
So, guys could you please give me a few
species of corals that would live under my lighting levels. I wish you
every fish keeping success. Cheers, Brendan
<Have a nice weekend!
-Steven Pro> Lighting Confusion
I have a 125 Gallon reef
with mostly LPS. Its been up and running for 6 years. I have decided
its time to get some SPS. I would like to up grade my lighting
from 700 watts of VHO to MH. I don't know how much MH to go with. I'
m going back and forth between 175 watt and 250 watt ballasts, and to
add to the confusion do I get two or three ballast and bulbs. The water
depth is 18 inches to the top of the sand. Which way would you suggest
I go.
<unless the tank will only have sps and clams, go with the
175 watt lamps at one per 2 feet. 250 watts of light over many soft
corals and mushrooms can harm them in time (photoinhibition). Many LPS
corals will outright bleach. 10K Aqualines get my vote. Ushios are quite
good here too. No actinics needed. Do read more here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
best regards,
Anthony> Lighting/Stocking Question
Hi
Bob/Anthony/Steven,
<cheers, my friend>
I am setting up a new reef
tank. Need some advice on the lighting. Firstly, tank specs: Tank
size: 72" (l) x 24" (w) x 30" (h) Sandbed depth: 5-6" deep in most part
of the tank, which gives an effective depth of 24" Corals intended:
Mostly light loving sps e.g. Acroporas/Pocilloporas/Stylophoras. Some
light loving LPSs e.g. Favia/Favites. And a few Trachyphyllia (which I
intend to shield from direct exposure to MH with live rock structures)
<all good... do resist too many LPS here though. Especially the lower
light species>
Light: 3 x 400W MH (2 Iwasakis 6500 + 1 Radium 20000
or 4 Ushio 10000, not decided yet) or 4 x 250W MH (2 Iwasaki 6500 + 2
Radium 20000)
<Yowsa... 250 lamps at most here please. Even with sps.
Tank is too shallow (under 30")>
It seems like I am sitting on the
border between 250W MH and 400W MH. I have listed my considerations
down below a list seeking your treasured opinions:
<easy one here>
1. Sps will be sited from top of the tank to near the sand bed. I
estimate greatest depth will be around 18-20". Likely it will be the
Pocilloporas at the deeper end. With this in mind, is the 250W MH
enough at the greater depth?
<yes... its all about water clarity.
Weekly carbon and or daily ozone in a perfect world. Yellow water and
400 watt MH will not be as good as 175 watt MH is ozonized water at
18-24"!>
I intend for them to retain their colorful appearance.
2. 400W MH will be 6" from water surface,
<Jeez?!?! Making lava,
bub?
250W MH will be 7" from water surface.
<OK... getting
better>
The different height is due to the bulk of the 400W lamp
holder. My concern is the presence of a central brace of the tank. It
seems that a 3 x 400W configuration will mean a MH light have a sitting
above a 1/2 inch glass which I believe reduces its efficiency.
<oh,
ya!>
What is your take on this?
<the 400 watt metal halide rage
is a joke perpetuated by an industry of rank amateurs. Ha! Ahhh... I'm
not shy about an opinion here. What you have are a lot of SPS keepers
keeping (and yes growing very well) sps corals in shallow water under
400 and 1000 watt halides, and then finding another reason for the
deaths and bleaching events for specimens after 1, 2 and 3 years when
photoinhibition is a strong factor. You will be hard pressed to find an
aquarist with 400+ watt MH over shallow water (less than 20") with 5+
year success. A lot of folks under 3 years preaching though.>
Offsetting the "middle" 400W MH is not an option IMO as I like both ends
of the tank to be equally illuminated.
3. Yet all the hardcore
sps/clam guys are campaigning for the 400W bulbs, (I seem myself moving
a little more towards sps already, though not clams), are 400W bulbs an
overkill in my tank?
<yep... you need 30" plus to make this argument>
4. I read that many of the colorful coralline algae do not do well
(bleach) close to 400W bulbs, in the event that I do go for 400W, at
what depth will I start seeing colored corallines?
<agree in premise,
vigor by species. No rule here>
5. I intend to shield my
Trachyphyllia from direct MH lights, if you think it cannot be done,
then I will drop the idea of keeping Trachyphyllia geoffroyi. It should
be a major facture in lamp selection.
<they will be fine on the sand
bottom under 250 watt. Just acclimate slow (see my fly screen method in
the archives under acclimating corals to new light) or in my coral prop
book>
6. The top of the live rock structure will be populated with
bushy Acropora. I understand with 250W MH, I can put them close to
water surface (give couple of inches for water changes), but what about
400W MH, can they be kept that high (if placed immediately below the MH
bulb)?
<most can be acclimated to the brighter light. Some will not.
All can be acclimated to "lower" light if fed well>
7. I will be
installing a 8 gallon dump bucket fed solely by my sump return
pump. Estimate dumping frequency is about one every 45 seconds. Please
advise how much more water movement do I need in such a tank, assuming
somehow I managed to keep water movement well spaced and random.
<for
sps, aim for a 20X turnover with random turbulent and or surging flow.
No wave-timers please...a waste of money>
8. Do you know of anybody
willing to ship pink Goniastrea?
<nope... requires Extreme (!) high
light that will kill most other corals>
I really appreciate your
opinion call on the above, especially the MH. Thanks in advance Edwin
<save some money bud... definitely 250 watts. You won't be disappointed.
Best regards, Anthony> MH lights and coral growth 4/14/05
Dear Anthony
<Cheers>
I am upgrading to 250 watt halides (Arcadia
series 3). These are going pride of place over my 130 gallon mixed reef
garden setup.
I have the following corals
1 Montipora
1
frogspawn
1 Euphylliid (hammer)
1 Montipora
1 Turbinaria
several Caulastrea colonies
1 sun coral
1 Pavona
various
Sarcophytons
<Hmmm... overall a moderate (light) needs tank. It will
be good/better if the 250 watt lamps you use are 10k - 20k K in color>
All are placed away from each other and at heights specific for the
genus, allelopathy is reduced by regular weekly water changes and
regular preening of the softies. My existing light setup is 5 60 watt
VHO lights and 1 T5. My question is really what should I limit the
halide photoperiod to?
<6-8 hours will be fine here for MH>
Water
quality is fair and I get fabulous growth from the Pavonas and frogspawn
and Euphylliid. Not so much growth from the SPS hence the reason for the
halide upgrade.
<Hmmm... you are a bit mistaken here, perhaps. Water
flow (increase) and feeding (try DTs Natural Diet for your SPS corals)
are much greater influences on coral growth. Increasing light alone will
not improve growth in many cases>
My wattage is essentially doubling
so I know I have to go gentle with the adjustment.
<For this gentle
acclimation, do a key word/phrase search for "screen method" here in our
WWM archives :) kindly, Anthony> The Right Light For Beautiful
Corals? 10/25/05
Hi, Guys
<Hey there! Scott F. your guy
tonight!>
Love your site. A lot of good info.
<Thanks! We're
thrilled to bring it to you!>
I have a question for you about
lighting for my 90 gal reef tank. I currently have all SPS and Clams in
my tank. "Oh" 2 LPS at the bottom. I'm currently running Hamilton 2- 250
watt 10k halides 2-110 VHO actinics. I have been buying a lot of frags
on line. For some reason, the colors of the frags don't look the same as
in the pics. Is this because I have 10,000 K bulbs?
<It's certainly
possible. If you look on many e-tailer's web sites, the corals are
photographed under 20k bulbs, which definitely do effect the color of
the corals. Some unscrupulous vendors may actually doctor colors with
software. I would venture to say that this is not too common, though.>
If it is it OK to go with 14k or 20k radium's. Will the corals be OK.
<Sure, corals will be okay, but there are other factors involved in
coral coloration and growth. Water quality, movement, etc. are all in
play. There are many hobbyists who maintain beautiful coral-filled
aquariums with 10,000k bulbs.>
Also is it normal for the SPS to only
come out at night?
<Many corals put out polyps at night.>
I do put
bio plankton in in between actinics and moon lights.
<A good time to
feed your corals!>
Thanks, Jay
<A pleasure! Regards, Scott F.> |
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