Kalk & Nano   3/11/07
Hi There,
Karl from the UK here again. :O)
<Brandon from the US here today.>
I was wondering if you could help me out with some Kalk advice?
<I am willing to try.>
I am currently at week 3 of cycling my 12g nano system.  No live stock at the moment - just 7 kg's of live rock (Fiji) - I plan to go completely fishless/shrimpless/crabless.  
<I have had better success cycling with some live stock.>
I am just going to add about 8 cerith snails and maybe 2 nasserius <Nassarius>.
<Nassarius snails are interesting little critters.  I have five of them.  All I ever see are antennae until I put food in the tank.>
I am lighting the tank for about 2.5 hours a day and now beginning to increase the "daylight" slowly.  I have measured my pH and this is hovering around 7.7 - when the lights come on this goes up to about 7.9.
<Measure it again a few hours after the lights have come on.  It seems like it takes a little while for it to raise.  I would also say that I would try a different test kit.  7.7 is really low for nighttime.  Mine runs about 8.0.>  
I really want to try and shoot for 8.3 - as I plan to keep Pulsing
Xenia and want good coralline growth.  My other params are as follows:
SPG:  1025
Ca: 410-420ppm
Alk:  4 meq/l
Temp: 25c
<This is why I said to try a different test kit.  With this much calcium, your pH should be higher.>
When I make up my water I circulate this with airstone + power head for about five days.  
<This is a bit of over kill.  The water can sit over night, and it is considered aerated.>
When I first add Reef Builder to this, the pH is at about 8.25, but after a few days of aging this goes down to about 8.05.
<This could be because you are letting it sit so long.>
My make up water is made to the following parameters:
SPG: 1025
Ca: 420ppm
Alk:  A little over 5 meq/l
My top/off (evap) water is RO/DI buffered with Seachem Reef Builder to about 4.75 meq/l.  I am currently turning my tank over about 15x an hour, although
<Kind of low, but as long as you don't want corals like Acropora, or Montipora, you should be O.K.>
I might add a Mini Jet to this setup too.
<You know what they say, you can never have too much flow.>
My question is this, I am really keen to dose Kalk to my system for all the benefits (phos, improved protein skimming and mainly to keep my PH up at around 8.3).  What would be a good starting dose on a 12g system.  I am happy with my Ca levels, so do not want to drive these up to much - simply maintain them and support alk.  
<You can maintain them with water changes.>
What would be a pretty safe starting dose on my system?  I understand that Reef Builder does not immediately raise pH, but does tend to bring it up to 8.3 over time.  Would Reef Buffer be a better bet than Kalk, although I am very keen to try Kalk - have read/heard so many good things about using this.
<Kalkwasser is a great thing.  It will buffer the water for you, keep your Ca in check, and give you a really high Alk.  My point is, I don't see a need to get drastic yet.  You seem to have everything in order.  I would really try a different test kit at this point.  But since you asked, I feel compelled to answer.  If you want to dose Kalkwasser, see here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/kalkh20faq2.htm.  This should tell you everything that you need to know, Including Anthony’s slurry method.  I apologize if I could not tell you exactly what you wanted to know, but I am a firm believer in the fact that most if not all parameters can be kept in check with regular small water changes.>
I look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks to all the wetweb team for all the great work & support that you do!
<Thank you for the kind words.  Brandon.>
Best Regards,
Karl McNally

What the barnacle? Nano-Marine Issues   3/1/07
I searched your sight and didn't like what I read (darn you guys).
<..Not usually what we hear but...okay.>
Anyway, I believe I have a barnacle problem.
<Okay.>
Recently, I was unable to do my mandatory 50% water change on my 2.5 nano.
<I see.>
I was having great success until recently due to one problem a couple months ago with a heater that wiped out half my tank (I lost a fish, a worm and some snails)
<You had a fish in 2.5 marine nano.....now I am not liking what I am reading.>
and another one about 3 months later when my emerald crab died who kept the tank utterly spotless (in fact this crab was the savior of the tank).  
<You are keeping too much in this tank.>
In both instances, I rallied the tank for several days with several water changes until things tested better. But due to guilt and uncertainty as to why the emerald died, I couldn't bring myself to buy another one for about a three weeks now.
  I usually have nitrates no matter what,
<I bet...>
but can keep them at bay with consistent 50 % water changes (no protein skimmers in market yet to speak of). This is the first time in a very long time I didn't due my water change every week (I changes it this past weekend.) Since the death of the crab, green hair algae went nuts as wells as a lot of grayish like bullcrap
<?>
sticking to the rock, the later of which I can shake off rock by squirting a feeding tube at it. Now, in the past week, after I did my (only one week behind) 50 % water change, plus two 20 % water changes in past three days, I have BARNACLES every where.
<Feed off oh high nutrient levels.>
The nitrates are around .25 to .50 ppm.
<You don't any chance mean 22rppm or 50ppm do you?. The amounts above are nothing really as far as nitrates are concerned.>
I did go a head and buy a smaller baby emerald on Monday who is holding his own just fine for now (he is eating, cleaning his/her self).  I also have a small male/female set of dragonets
<Uh-oh, methinks these animals will be short-lived, please read WWM re: dragonet behavior.>
(wrongly called scooter blennies)
<Well yes, but this is a commonly used...well common name for them, the only way to be sure is to provide scientific names.>
and one small clown fish, about 8 snails in total (4 very small and 4 medium sized of varying species) and 6 hermits (4 very small red Mexicans approved by this site b/c I recall checking and 4 small to medium sized blue legged hermits) and one sea cucumber (tiger) who cleans all my sand until its is pure white.
<Your nutrient issues will only continue, this tank is over and inappropriately stocked my friend.>
I also have or had a worm (feather duster) who may be dead b/c he hasn't come out since day before water change (guy at store said they grow their heads back and to keep it and wait and see, is this good advise? Should I lose it?)  
<They will recuperate in ideal conditions which these are not.>
My question is, will these go away?
<Not int his tank with it's current conditions.>
How many additional water changes should I continue to due besides my 50% every 7 days?
<Mmm...as much as possible until you can find homes for these animals.>
Do I have to toss all the rock/sand and start over completely due to inevitable larvae break outs.
<Read WWM re:.>
  I have visible copes/amps and micro stars still living in the tanks as we speak.   It is still established and I would like to not have to toss everything and start again.
<I would suggest some animals for natural predation but not in this size tank, the barnacles are just a symptom a major root problem.>
I am pulling my hair out over this.  I have a 10 gallon nano that is perfect because of your site's great advice (it has countless goodies and night diving w/ the flash light is awesome and endless!). I can do this small nano too, I think?
<Not with what you have in it.>
Please save my tank and my sanity.
<Read here my friend: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .>
Sincerely Colleen in Long Island
<AdamJ in So. cal.>

Re: Kalkwasser & Nano Reef; now nano clean up crew/s   2/24/07
Hi Bob,
<Karl>
Thanks very much for reply and advice on this, it is very much appreciated!  One last question, you do not recommend the use of snails.
What would you recommend as a cleanup crew for a 15g system?
<Mmm, you! As posted>
I have family in San Diego (La Jolla), and when I am next over in the US, would really like to meet you - maybe have some Mexican and chat?
<Sounds good>
  Again, thanks for all your help!
Best Regards,
Karl McNally
<Bob Fenner>

Kalkwasser & Nano Reef     2/23/07
Hi There,
<Karl>
I was wondering if you could help me out with the following?
<Will do my best>
I am currently cycling a 15 gallon Nano (Orca TL-450).  I currently have about 3kg's of live rock in there and plan to add another 3kg's in about 2 weeks.  Overall, I plan to let the tank cycle/stabilize for about 2 months before I add anything.
<Good (slow, determined, intelligent) approach>
  There is also sugar sized sand on the floor, but just enough to cover the bottom 1/4 of an inch at the most. I plan to keep soft corals - zoanthid, metallic xenia, Kenya tree
<Mmm, will get too large...>
and only one fish - a Midas Blenny.
<Good choice>
I gave up keeping a 30g system about five years ago, as I could not get a grip on my algae problems (hair, Cyano...).  I swear I nearly had a nervous breakdown due to the algae... :O)
<Yikes>
This time round, I am not going to rush a single thing,  I have purchase a three stage RO filter & added on a DI cartridge to that.  Got digital TDS, ph meters and purchased a refractometer.  I am using Red Sea Coral Pro salt, as this states that it has elevated calcium and buffer levels in it critical for the reef environment.  Do you know anything about this salt (good/bad)?
<Is fine to have (almost all such synthetics) do... "more" available calcium... You can read our various remarks re brands, posted on WWM>
My question is this, I have read about all the benefits of Kalk (coralline growth, phosphate precipitation and Ph).  Once I have tested for Ca and deemed it necessary to dose Ca - do you think it would be a good idea (dangerous) to dose with Kalk in such a small tank?
<I would NOT use Kalkwasser in such a small volume myself... as you state, it's too likely to cause issues than provide help... and I see you address alternatives below>
Or do you think it would be better to use something like C-Balance or just allow for weekly water changes to handle the Alk/Ca needs?
<Yes, and yes... you will find, once all is up, going, stocked... with testing... that there is little "cause" to add much of anything here... with simple maintenance, water changes, feeding... Should you find that you want to adjust for alkalinity and biominerals, I would do so with a good "two part" system/product like B-Ionic...>
  The two reasons I am keen on Kalk is that I am terrified to have another algae issue, and I want to have really good Coralline algae growth.
<Mmm... do look into SeaChem's fine line... adjust for added alkaline/earth materials in your change-out water if you deem desirable>
Would it be better to use a product called Purple-Up for coralline and just do 25% water changes weekly?
<Likely just the latter>
I plan to keep my tank parameters as follows:
Spg: 1.025
Calcium: Above 400
Alk: As close to 12 as I can get
Temp: 25C
I also plan to cycle my tank with the lights off - so I do not encourage bad algae to grow.  Is this advisable - good for coralline algae growth?
<Mmm, yes>
Once cycled, I plan to add 15 turbo snails and maybe some Trochus as part of the cleanup crew.
<I would eschew use of snails as well... or if using, keep their number much smaller... perhaps two total>
  This should be enough in a 15 gallon tank - shouldn't it?
<Too much IMO>
I am sorry if this comes across like the Ramblings of a mad man! :O)
<Mmm, not at all>
But when I gave up on my last tank, and returned what livestock had not been smothered to death by algae - it broke my heart!  I have been waiting five years for my partner to allow me to try again, and all this time thinking about things that I did wrong and how I could do better it in the future.  The one thing I will have this time is a little PATIENCE!  
I look forward to hearing from you - whoever it may be.
Best Regards,
Karl
<Be chatting, reading my friend. Bob Fenner>

Keeping a clean sandbed, mushrooms, bubble algae, glass anenomes, Sm. SW maint.  - 02/21/07
Hello! Thanks in advance for your help. I have a lot of questions about my tank! I have a 25 gallon Marineland Eclipse saltwater, about 10 months old, with about 30 lbs liverock, and a shallow sandbed of sugar sized aragonite. (about a half inch deep) I have 2 small Blue-Green Chromis fish, 1 small Firefish, 1 Clarki Clownfish, 2 Hermit Crabs, 3 Turbo Snails (a few snails have died), various featherdusters, and two colonies of mushrooms, spaced about 8 inches apart. (both I think Discosoma/"Actinodiscus") My cleaner shrimp recently died, after having him for about 8 months. I plan on getting another one soon.
First Question. I have always had a lot of debris and detritus build up on my sand bed. I siphon my entire sandbed weekly, with each waterchanges (%20 water changes),
<Good technique, interval, amount>
yet I can never siphon it all out, and by the time its time for another waterchanges, my sandbed is a ghastly sight.
<Mmm, perhaps adding a bit more mechanical filtration, and/or circulation...>
Because of my constant siphoning, my sandbed becomes more and more shallow. What are my options to fix this problem?
<Mmm, add a bit more substrate periodically... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/substrepl.htm
and the linked files above>
Second Question. One group of mushrooms is not doing well. I've had them in my tank for around 6 months. They were beautiful, large, and I they were constantly budding and creating more. But then, about a month ago they have began dwindling, not opening up all the way, shriveling up, and aren't as bright as they used to be. They look more grey now than purple.
<Clues...>
I add iodine once a week, after the water change. I use Kent Marine Lugol's Solution.
<Do you measure for such? I would>
Should I try using a different supplement?
<... You should measure... and read on WWM re Corallimorph Health, Systems...: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shroomhlthfaqs.htm
and the linked files...>
I have a few small glass anenomes (impossible to get rid of),
<Mmm, no>
and bubble algae (a few months back I tried to rid my tank of bubble algae with an emerald crab, but the crab was also destroying my mushrooms) through out my tank. Could the bubble algae or anenomes have anything to do with the demise of my mushrooms?
<Yes>
Also, on the rock with all the mushrooms, there are tons of tiny worms in the rock, with strings usually extending all over the place. Could they be harming the mushrooms?
<Not likely>
Third Question. I don't mind having glass anenomes or bubble algae in my tank, I think they are both interesting to look at. If they aren't causing a problem, is there really any reason to try to get rid of them?
<Yes... see WWM re... and the linked... Be reading. Bob Fenner>

Algae Empire  - 02/15/07
Hi there guys-
<Mark>
Thanks in advance.  My friend asked me to take care of a reef tank at his work. I have my own for a couple of years and it has been doing great.
<Good>
The original owner of the tank recently died of ALS and "left" the tank to his company.  The people there had no idea of what to do and hired someone to come in once a week and take care of it.  Well the "guy" didn't do anything but water changes for 6 months.  No filter on it, and it had a CPR Bak-pak that wasn't skimming; just pumping water through.  
<Bunk>
It's a 20 gal tall with 45-55lbs of live rock and a thin sand substrate. It also has a Power Compact for light.  It has two Ocel Clown fish and one blue-leg hermit crab.  All the coral has died off.  The "guy" put in a xenia and some purple star polyps.  Neither are doing well.  Also, two powerheads to add current.
<...>
The entire tank is covered in algae.  Green slime algae all over the sand bed and the live rock.  Short green hair algae is also covering what the slime isn't.  The Nitrates were through the roof and the Ph a little low.  The other test ran normal.  
<Time for a tear down IMO...>
I added a HOT Magnum filter to it.  I am also trying to get the CPR to work properly but having VERY little luck. I think the original owner modified it in some way.  I shortened the lighting period from 12 hours to 8.  They are adding a Nitrate eliminator chemical to everyday, sorry forgot the name.  I scrubbed the algae off the glass and rocks. I vacuumed the algae off the sand bed.  I have also completed 3 five gallon water changes over the last three weeks.  I can only get there once a week.  BUT, the algae is not giving up without a fight.
<I would start again, really>
I really don't know what else to do.  I may be changing the skimmer if I can't get the CPR to work to a D & D Typhoon protein skimmer.  How are these?
<Generic... not very good>
I have heard good things about them and they are fairly well priced.  The Nitrates are slowly coming down and the Ph is getting to normal.  Once they are at good numbers, I want to add algae eating livestock (crabs snails and such).  
HELP! Any ideas on what I can do?  Please.  
<Third time's a charm... I'd tear all down, bleach it, and start again>
One more thing-  if what I started to do, and any advice that you give me starts to eliminate the algae, how long do you think it will take to gain control? I know that's like asking when the next meteorite will strike the Earth, but if you could make a guess?   
<This is such a small volume... I'd put the LR in the dark to kill off most the algae, bleach, thoroughly rinse and re-use the substrate...>
Thanks again.  You guys have always been there with, if I dare say, Excellent advice.
Sincerely,
Mark Ryan
<There are numerous articles and FAQs files on WWM re various aspects of algal control in marine systems... But I'd do the Billy Idol "Start Again!!!" here. Bob Fenner>

New Tank, Marine (Small) maint.  2/5/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi Greg.>
     My 20 gallon tank has been set up now for about a month and a half.
<Cool.>
  I cured 30 pounds of live Tonga "Lola" rock while cycling the tank.  I performed 50 percent water changes weekly for the first month.  My levels spiked, then dropped as expected.  I added an azure damsel and a few hermits and snails.  My levels are now stuck at the following and have been so since the initial cycling period ended.  Ammonia: 0-0.25, nitrites: religiously 0.05, nitrates: religiously 5.0, phosphates: 0-0.1, pH: 8.3, Alkalinity is normal to high, Calcium: 475-500 (I added some Aragamilk a few weeks ago and the Ca has been through the roof ever since).
<My guess is that the ammonia/nitrite is most likely zero but the test kits are not sensitive enough o “pick-it-up” I would confirm readings with friend/LFS.>
     I have a fair amount of bright green algae on the top of the rocks closest to the lights.  
<Normal for new tanks to go through algae phases….how is the water flow?>
I have also noticed a fair amount of red coloration on the rocks.
<Cyano/BGA…..>
The local guys say not to do anything.  I feel like I'm stuck in my cycle.  Do I wait to put more livestock inside to clean the algae?  What do these levels suggest?
<About par for a tank this new.>
Some say the levels will never be perfect and not to worry.
<Well I do suggest being a little more patient…wait a few more weeks. What type of salt/source water are you using?>
  My test kit is brand new.  Some fresh ideas would be nice.  Thanks for your help.  I spend an endless amount of time on you website.
Greg
<Adam J.>

Help.. Nano/SW algae issues! 1/26/07
Your site is outstanding and I wanted to thank all the WWM Crew for all the help you give to our hobby.
<Welcome>
This is my issue/problem/question:
Current Reef Set up
Inhabitants:
20GAL w/2 Black Perculas, 1 Brittle Starfish, Mithrax Crab, BTA,
<Yikes... possible trouble should there be... trouble>
12ish snails/hermits, 3 Nudibranch Berghias (Aiptasia control), 21 LPS/SPS Corals, 20 Pds LR, 2 inches LS, 1 Sand Dollar in Sump
Equip:
20GAL Open top, AquaClear 402 PH, Outer Orbit HQI Lighting Fixture, MH on 11-8 & Actinics 7-9, 15GAL Sump with Skimmer, Heater, Coolworks Ice Probe, Ph Probe, Temp Probe, Aquadyne Octopus 3000, Phosban Reactor, 15 Pds LR, 2 inches LS, Kalk Doser/Auto Top off system,.
<Sounds very nice thus far>
Water Parameters:
Temp: 77+/-.5, Nitrate/Nitrites: 0, Ph: 8.2-8.5, Alk: 9-11, Ammonia: 0, Ca: 390-410
<These are fine>
It has been set up for about 8 months and the past month I have been fighting a hair algae/other feather type algae outbreak. I have tried the rip/scrub method with no success.  Recently I installed the Phosban Reactor with ½ Carbon, ½ Phosban Media. I feed a very small amount of food once a day and the corals 2 a week with phyto or other coral feed. I have been using treated tap water for my SW mix (Instant Ocean) and top off, but I ordered a 6 stage RO/DI unit and it should be here today.  I am hoping that the combo of all my new treatments will help. I have heard suggestions of switching to microalgae in my sump.
<Mmm, macro... algae>
  Would this be a good idea or would the change make my system unstable?
<More likely to make it more stable>
I have researched all over the web and in books and I am out of ideas. The tank is too small for algae eating fish like a tang and any additional inhabitants in this sized Nano would not be a good idea. Any suggestions that you have would be greatly appreciated?  Thanks in advance!
v/r
Mark A. Smith
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/smmarsysmaintfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Pico/Nano Reef Questions   1/25/07
Greetings. I am slowly ramping up a 10 gallon nano. I would like to say that I have appreciated your site's non-judgmental yet honest
approach to the small-tank side of this hobby.
<Thanks for the compliment.>
The system is currently running with the following clean-up crew
(following cycling w/ live rock):
2 Astraea snails
2 Chestnut turbo snails (Turbo castanea)
2 Dwarf red hermits
2 Peppermint shrimp
<A bit much on the snails for this volume of tank.>
The cycle completed great, the clean-up crew added, and they are deftly handling the usual young tank algae issues. I feed the shrimp
very sparingly with a frozen food about every other day.
<Sounds acceptable, but keep it varied.>
Fish-wise, my intent is to eventually stock it with 1-2 hardy fish, and if I go with two fish I would get probably get, for example, a neon goby and something else, such as a small damsel or a chalk bass (still debating and researching, sources conflict on chalk basses in tanks this small).
<It is pushing it, a neon goby or two is the most you should do, no fish would be optimal.>
I do not want a clown. I am pretty comfortable that I will eventually find suitable fish, and I have read your great suggestions on the site, but if you have additional advice to offer I am all ears.
Here are two issues that I have been unable to find answers for:
One: Light-wise I have a 2x40W fixture (Current Orbit Satellite). I would love to keep stony corals of some sort. I will certainly thoroughly research any species I choose beforehand and I realize that my system will limit my choices to some of the less light intensive species. I don't mind going with softies if I determine that stonies are a bad idea. The problem is there are so many options and so much info geared to the world of larger aquariums that it is hard to find a starting point. Can you recommend a few starting points for research
of corals or families of corals that meet the following description, if any exist in your opinion:
- Hard/stony
- Do well with moderately bright lighting (8 W/g - I know, not a very useful measure), but don't necessarily need MH to thrive
- Are not ultra-sensitive to a bit of unintended water parameter fluctuation
- Don't have some other undesirable quality that makes them patently unacceptable in a nano, such as long sweepers or a need for frequent solid foods Am I doomed to failure with hard corals or is it doable in this setup with careful species selection and water quality maintenance?
Issue Two: Water quality is good overall so far, but for some reason there is a pH/alk problem. My parameters are consistently:
- SG = 1.023
- Temp = 78-80 deg. F
- NH3/4  = 0
- NO2 = 0
- NO3 = 0+ (barely detectable)
- Ca = 300mg
- KH = 170 mg/L ( = 3.4 meq/L,  = 9.5 dKH)
- PO4 = 0
Here's the interesting part:
- pH = 7.9
I can't figure out why my pH is 7.9. It appears that it's not the water because I am using RO, and my RO tests at KH < 20 mg/L, GH < 20 mg/L, Ca < 20 mg/L. It is not a function of the tank environment because the salt mix (Instant Ocean) mixes to 7.9 in an empty, open top bucket. It appears that it is not a CO2/O2 issue because I have mixed the salt both inside the house and outside on the porch and it is the same. Plus, my house is poorly insulated and, being that it is winter in Florida, we have the windows open a lot. It appears that it is not an aeration issue because the pH is stable at 7.9 within an hour of mixing, still stable after mixing for 24 hours, and stable in the tank. I am using an open egg crate diffuser cover on my tank.
The only other variable I can think of is the test kit (Hagen - expires 2010). It is a wide range kit, and it is a bit difficult to read, though I am confident it is reading slightly below 8.0. I am purchasing a new narrow-range kit just to make sure. Any suggestions?
What could I be missing?
I intend to slowly and carefully bring the Ca up closer to 350-400 with a part A/part B supplement prior to stocking with any hard corals, but I want to solve the pH mystery first and get things stable for a couple of weeks before I even start that process.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.
<Kemp...this should answer all if not most of your questions; let me kow if you need more detail: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .>
Thanks,
<Anytime.>
Kemp
<**Adam_J.>

Caribbean Biotope + Herbivores in a Nano cube   1/24/07
Hey guys.
<Hi there, Mich here.>
I'm planning a Caribbean biotope in my 24 gallon tank.  I haven't been able to find much info on the net regarding setup or types  
(different reef types, depths) of these aquariums, and I was wondering if you knew any good ones.
<John Tullock has an excellent book called The Natural Reef Aquarium, which is arranged by geographically area.  This would be an great resource for you.>  
On another note, I can't find any herbivorous Caribbean fish!
<How about a Redlip Blenny (Ophioblennius atlanticus), would be appropriate for a 24 gallon tank.  
Would best be off using the herbivorous Mithrax crabs or is there some other option?
<Mmm, don't know that I would call the Mithrax crab herbivorous, they do at times prey on small animals, so I would use these with caution.  I would consider using a snail or two, not much more in such a small tank at there will most likely not be enough of a food supply and may result in starvation.  Turbos, Astraea, Trochus, Nerite, Cerith and Nassarius are all possibilities.>    
Thanks.
<Welcome!  -Mich>

No more sand vacuuming? 1/20/07
Hi,
<Hello, Greg.>    
I've got a six gallon marine tank, stocked lightly with a tiny neon goby, tiny Ambon shrimp and a couple of snails.
    Now I'm wondering if it's possible to stock the half-inch sand bed (so that it won't need to be vacuumed) with a combination of pods, snails, crabs, etc.
<Yes and no. Half an inch is a might shy of the depth the 'pods would prefer for a sustaining population. If your goal is simply for the turning over of the substrate, then consider ditching the 'pod idea. This is a very small system with limited capacity for organisms, so your options are limited.>
If so, can you recommend the right combination  of species, or can you point me towards helpful reading material.
Thanks, Greg
<Give this link a try: ( http://wetwebmedia.com/marscavart.htm ) and check out all the links thereafter that seem to relate.
HTH -Graham T.>

Help water chemistry   1/19/07
Hi,<Hi Carlos, Rich K here.> first of all thank you for the wealth of information on your  
site, it is truly encyclopedic.<No, thank you for taking the time to do some research and reading>  I was wondering if you could help me out.<I'll try>  I have set up a mini reef in a 20 gallon hex.  It is about a month old.  It contains 1.5 pounds of cured live rock per gallon, and 1 pound per gallon of live sand.  I have two Halloween hermits, two electric blue hermits, 3 dwarf blue leg, and 2 scarlet hermits crabs cleaning up.  In addition there are 2 peppermint shrimps, and several Cerith and Nassarius snails.<plenty of clean up crew>  I recently added the first coral, an open brain.  Everything seems healthy and active.  My problem is my pH.  It will run about 8.1 after a 25% water change with Instant ocean, but will drift down over a few days to about 7.8. <This is normal, no worries> This is occurring despite the addition of daily buffer. <Can I ask why you add a buffer with a tank that has only one coral?>
I have checked with two digital meters and they both agree.  Today my pH is 7.8-7.9 and my Alkalinity is all the way up to  7!  My calcium is at 405, magnesium at 1395. <That sounds good> I just don't get it, and I am afraid to add any  
more buffer.<A buffer is setup to supplement what your tank is consuming, with no corals and minimal live rock, your only going to need small amounts periodically to maintain your levels>
I had been supplementing with Kent dKH and Kent CaCl2.   
I switched to the Kent reactor Ca supplement.  And when the pH was getting down around 7.8 I would add a dose of buffer. This will  
correct the pH for a day or two then it starts to go down again.  I tried aerating the tank overnight, the pH did not change from an 8.0  
range for that day, then started its downward trend again.<Again this is normal>  I am really getting confused. <Don't be, its mother nature at its finest><Furthermore, my system has done the same for years now. in the morning my PH is around 7.8, by the end of the day its around 8.2, I have no ill effects>
I do not have a protein skimmer, not sure that is the culprit? <I would recommend for your setup, the CPR hang-on skimmer, I used one on my 55g for almost 3yrs and it worked great>
Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated.<take your time and lets things developed as they go, also you didn't mention how long the tank has been set up?><Patience my friend, and thank you for contacting us a WWM!, Rich K.>
Thank you in advance
C. David

pH/Alkalinity 12/19/06
Hey Guys,
<Marshall>
Let me start by thanking you for your extensive Q&A pages and your tireless dedication to helping enhance our hobby.
<You're welcome.>
I have a 24 gallon nano reef which I supplement with calcium, strontium, molybdenum, and iodine.  My pH is about 7.8, calcium is at 450ppm, dKH is 13, ammonia and nitrite are 0 and nitrates never exceed 5ppm.  So I have a few questions: First, am I mistaken in my understanding that you can't get calcium and alkalinity to high levels?
<Mistaken.>
Also, what possible problems can arise from having too high an alkalinity?
<Calcium depletion.  Do read <<Mmmm, Marshall Read>> here and linked files above for a better understanding
of alkalinity/calcium.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
I am attempting to use Seachem Reef Buffer to raise my pH, but it also raises alkalinity
<Ahh, working as advertised then.  It is made to raise the alkalinity of the water.  Generally, low pH results from a low dKH level and excess nutrients/detritus in the system.>
so I am hesitant to proceed further until I figure out what the possible repercussions are from too high an alkalinity.
<Levels of 8-12 dKH are normal.>
Aside from water changes, what, if any, methods exist for lowering alkalinity without also lowering pH.
<Your dKH is not high.>
One final question and a little off topic, I have a Spotted Mandarin which loves vitamin enriched brine, would he also eat zooplankton?
<Ah, one of the lucky ones to have a Mandarin eat none living foods.
Definitely try the zooplankton.  Cyclop-eeze would be my first choice.>
Thanks
a million.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Marshall Read

Nighttime Problems  11/27/06
Dear WWM staff,
<Hi>
Firstly I would like to take this quick opportunity to say you have a great site and the info and help you provide to everyone is nothing short of tremendous <Thanks>. Now I'm really hoping you can help me out with my current problem as  my LFS's are not that local over here in the UK out in the sticks. I've  got a 30 gallon set up which I've had running for just three months now. It  has two percula clowns, a yellow tailed damsel, a humbug damsel, a very small  regal tang (I will move it when it grows a bit) and a royal Gramma which seems  to have mysteriously disappeared. <Seems like a lot for a 30, and the tang needs to go NOW.> I also have a blood shrimp, cleaner  shrimp, clean up crew of snails and a couple of hermits and ones of  little brittle stars hiding in my live rock. I have about 15kgs of live  rock, live sand and 70 watts of t5 lighting of the white and marine blue.
the last two nights have been a nightmare... I've checked the tank a few  hours after the lights switch off and the regal tang is in absolute despair...  all faded and gasping.  <Fading could just be his night time coloration.> the yellow tailed damsel is almost faded to white and on  the bottom and the two perculas start to swim frantically about the tank bumping  about like drunken fools. the humbug appears least affected. I instantly tested  my nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and pH levels. all were at 0 or thereabouts and pH  was in the 8 region too. <Needs to be close to 8.3, each point of pH represents a pretty big change.>
However, Im convinced this must be a carbon dioxide or oxygen issue! <Could be.>  But I just don't understand why if it is. There have been no prob.s at all up till now!
I do have quite a bit of green marine algae and a small amount of purple algae  in the tank... could this lead to depleted oxygen at all? <Possibly is the O2 level is already low, at night photosynthetic life switches from O2 production to respiration like we do, using O2 and expelling CO2.>  I also have a few soft  corals and polyps (all the easy stuff like green stars) and they seem quite  content.
Anyway, I did a water change of about 15% and that very slowly seemed to help. As they slowly recovered and regained their colour the damsels were jerking  about with peculiar head movements. I left the lights on throughout the night because I was worried about the effects of turning them off. The next morning all fish had recovered and were keen to feed but the tang had now  developed bad ick... which I had been treating with raised water temperature <Will lower O2 level> and  the invert friendly chemical ESHA Oodinex.  <A "wonder drug".  I could not find the active ingredients of this on the internet but would guess it is not helping, possibly hurting.  My advice is if the box doesn't say what it is don't put it in your tank.  See WetWeb for more on Ich treatment.>  Could this have an  adverse/detrimental effect on water quality at night at all? <Lots of potential detrimental effects, but who knows what it is made of.>  Anyway, the fish were fine through the day but again at night tonight after a few hours of lights  out the fish were all struggling again. Completely faded except for the perculas which were just going frantic again. Anyway I did another water change, turned  the lights back on again (and will leave them on all night again) and the fish  seem to be recovering again.  I also moved the air pump out to the middle  of the tank and put a larger doodad on the end of it.
Do you have any ideas or suggestions as to what might be going on in my  system. I change my fine white filter regularly and the fine blue every few months. any suggestions greatly appreciated as I'm going to have a nervous breakdown if I have to do this last minute rescue every night!
yours hopefully,
Matt Farmer
<Increase circulation in the tank, you are looking for a minimum for 10X turnover per hour, but the more the better. Also you do not mention a skimmer, besides the removing of dissolved proteins it also is very effective in adding O2 to the water.  Other than that I am wondering if you are just seeing the normal changes in response to nighttime.>
<Chris>

Need interpreter, small SW, unstable...  11/10/06
Hi Crew,
I have a 10 gallon that is almost 3 years old with fish (overstocked), mushrooms, candy cane and snails and a ball of Chaetomorpha. A penguin mini filter and 10 pounds of rock (1 piece) and fine sand (replaced a year ago). A 65w 50/50 bulb.  I change 1 gallon a week.  Ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are 0. Phosphates used to be off the chart now down to the second lowest color on my test chart. Very little coralline algae on the rock but about 2/3 of the glass is solidly covered excluding the front glass. This has happened over the past few months. I did have a battle with hair algae but it is now under control.
<Congrats>
My tank is talking to me but I do not understand what it is saying. The ball of Chaeto usually doubles in size at which time I trim it back down. After the last trimming it went in reverse and most of it disintegrated in about 3 weeks time.
<Are you listening?>
There is a small bit left and I think it has finally stopped disintegrating. During that time I also noticed some of my baby mushrooms (those smaller than the size of a shirt button) were closing up into a ball and some disappeared. The fish are fine and eating as usual and the other mushrooms and candy cane look fine. So what is my tank saying?
Thanks
<That it's too small a volume, unstable... changing out/replacing the substrate was a good move... but w/o measuring at least biomineral and alkalinity... and/or trading out more new water volume, more frequently via changes... you're sure to run into/suffer from deficiency syndrome/s. Bob Fenner>

Cycling time for 10 FO marine tank  - 10/15/06
Hey WWM!
< Greetings, Emerson with you today. >
I have been keeping saltwater tanks for many years (all fish only) and have decided to try a 10 gallon "nano" tank. I have it all set up with 10 pounds of coral sand, some fake corals, and a four-stripe damselfish to help with the cycling.
< Fishless cycling is really the way to go, saving the fish from undue stress. Did you add live rock to this tank? Uncured live rock is a great way to cycle a tank.  >
The tank has been running like this for a week. I have two questions: (1) with a tank this small, how much longer will I have to wait for the tank to be cycled enough for me to add two false percula clowns?  
< You can determine this by testing for ammonia and nitrite. Test a few times a week and look for a rise and fall in ammonia, then the same for nitrite. Once both have peaked, fallen and stayed at 0 for a few days you are good to add fish. You are looking at a few weeks. >
If I re-arrange the decor, will I be able to leave the damsel with the clowns or will I have to give him back to the LFS?
< There are possible aggression issues besides stretching the limits of what should be housed in a 10 gallon tank. It would be best to return the damsel if you wish to add the clowns. >
Thanks,
Jack
< Best wishes to you and your fishes! >

Nano Cube Woes 10/14/06
Hi -
<Good Morning Sure>
I have a 24 gal. nano cube. Everything has been great - I have seahorses, pipefish, plus some inverts - all thriving nicely.
<I personally wouldn't suggest seahorses in this type of tank, they are very specialized and I would put them where there is more room.>
I purchased and installed a Fission protein skimmer because the store I do business with, recommended this skimmer for a small tank.
<I know its very hard to get a skimmer that will fit in a tank this small, however, in my personal opinion this skimmer will do absolutely nothing for you.  It's junk, to be frank.>
But nobody told me about maintenance of it.  How often to empty it?  
<You should be collecting a full cup of skimmate a day - so everyday.>
How often to replace the fiber inside?  Does the sponge need to remain over the bioball filtration? What is a safe distance for the sponge to be from the circulating pump?  
<Google this: however you are going to find more negative comments than you know what to do with this one.  From my experience, it really doesn't work at all, let alone efficiently.  The best thing to do with a tank of this size is plump a sump or a refugium tank where you can add a skimmer that is better rated.  Plus you then add more to your water volume which is always a good thing!>
Why do these people only put in a rudimentary diagram and NO INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Are there different light bulbs that can be purchased (higher intensity or Kelvins) for the nanotank?  Sources?  
<Yes, there are various places that provide right size bulbs with higher intensity, or retrofitting tanks to accommodate such.  Once again google.  Good luck, Jen S.>
Thanks, Sue S/

Top-off water trtmt.    10/6/06
I have a 24 gallon nano cube. It loses approximately 2 cups of water per day. I've been using RO/DI water as the top-off which has a PH of 7.82 and dKH of about 0. The top-off water is aerated for days before use. I've read through the FAQ but cannot find the answer to my question which is this:
I will be installing an ATO from JBJ. Should I buffer the top-off water for PH, alk, and calcium to equal the desired tank parameters?
<I would do this, yes... and test for a while, to ascertain whether you are significantly over-boosting these qualities>
Say buffer the top-off water to a PH of 8.4, Alk of 10dHK, and calcium of 380 mg/L or so?
Or just buffer it for ph/Alk+pH only.alk only?
<And try this...>
What's the best strategy?
Please advise.
<Let's think about this... only water (of course) is leaving through evaporation... but how much else is going on in this small volume as time goes by? How else will reductive processes, biomineralization... depletion be made up for? By your water changes? Perhaps... What of an answer that can be offered is a further delving of "what do you keep?", "what are your goals?", "what do you feed?", "what re your lighting?"... and a few more "what's"... The only way to render a useful answer here is to suggest that you try these adjuncts and see (through consequent testing) what the effects are on resident water quality. BobF>

Question about dead fish in mini-reef tank   9/26/06
Hi,
<Hello>
Great web site btw built my mini-reef tank from all the info gathered from this site. I've had now close to 5 months of successfully maintaining both saltwater fish and corals in my tank... up until a week ago. I had a friend watch my tank for a week and he did a water change for me two to be exact.....
<Eats shoots and leaves... where are your commas?>
meaning he siphoned water out ( that part he did fine ) ..but he poured a bucket literally in the tank to fill it back up.
<Poor instructions>
Suffice to say i
<I... sigh>
have  my first casualty my royal basset
<Oooooh. A hound?>
could not take the stress. I have been meaning to take him out and into a QT tank. But by the time i had the QT up and running i can no longer find him one morning. I'm sure he is somewhere in my rock work either dying or has already died.
I don't want to sound evil but i don't really want to break up my rock work just to find a dead fish. I would have take all my corals and fish and inverts out just to get to a point to safely dismantle the rocks and put them back afterwards. Not to mention the additional stress i might put on the live stock.
what options are at my disposal. can i leave the dead fish in my tank and hope the other fish and the few hermit crabs eat his remains? do i have enough filtration for my inhabitants to survive decomposition of a dead fish and the nitrogen cycle that will occurred there after.
<Likely "all gone now"... but I would monitor ammonia...>
I have 1.5 pounds of good live rock and 2" DSB in a 30x12x22 tank w/ AquaC remora skimmer. I have several corals and frags plus 3 other fish besides the basset ( maroon, coral beauty and a blue tang ( ya i know shouldn't have a tang in a tank this size.. was gonna move him to my buddies tank when he got bigger ).
any advise would be helpful
Edgar Domingo
<Keep beer in a cool, dark place. BobF>

Deteriorating Toadstool...Noxious Corals in a Nano Tank - 09/14/06
Good afternoon Crew!
<<Morning here...Hello!>>
Hope you're enjoying this beautiful fall afternoon!  I'm writing today with a concern about my toadstool leather.  I've attached a previous email that describes my set up.
<<Thanks for the background info>>
Everything is the same, except I've finally conquered the hair algae battle!! :-)
<<Yay!>>
I didn't think that the day would ever come!
<<Can/does usually take time...and perseverance>>
My concern is this.  About 2 weeks ago, the leather shed its waxy coating as normal.  (It usually does this about once every 5-7 days.)  Then the day after it shed, the tentacles retracted and it shed again the next day.  Then it repeated this again 2 days later.
<<Mmm...would seem something has gotten in to the water and is irritating the toadstool.  Any new livestock additions?>>
Since then (it has been about 5 days now, the tentacles are still retracted.
<<That's not a good sign>>
And I've noticed a difference in the texture of the coral.  The coral used to have slightly concave areas where the tentacles retract into.  Now the areas are convex (like little bumps) and very white instead of being the same shade as the rest of the coral.  I have also noticed that the entire coral has changed a bit in color.  It is now slightly grayish.
<<Another "not good" sign>>
I've done 2 large water changes (each about 25%) over the last several days & I've changed my Chemi-Pure out for a new batch thinking maybe a bit of allelopathy was to blame here.
<<Indeed...but have you also done tests for all the "usual" culprits? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)>>
But none of the other corals seem to be suffering any.
<<Maybe just "not yet">>
My zoas are fully open & the xenia is pulsing away as always.
<<Hmm, how "close" are these zoanthids to the toadstool?>>
One other thing, the stalk seems to have developed a "crease" and is a bit folded over.
<<Yes...the coral is declining and starting to collapse>>
I'm wondering if I need to frag below the crease & hope that it regenerates itself, or do I do nothing and hope for the best?
<<Any "fragging" would need to be done from the "crown" for much hope in propagating/saving a piece of this coral (but you could try if you wish).  Might be best to observe/remove if the deterioration worsens>>
If I need to frag it back, that presents yet another problem.  It has attached itself to several large rocks which are all epoxied together.
<<Possibly a moot point here>>
I'm not sure if I can remove it?!  Otherwise I would have quarantined it by now.  (I have photos but they don't seem to go through when I try to email them.  I think that the firewall on my server chucks these out.)
Thanks in advance for your input.
-Jaime
<<Keep an eye on the toadstool and remove immediately if it worsens/starts to "come apart" to preclude further poisoning of your system.  I also suggest you try to determine the core reason for this incident...do water tests, review your stock placement/density//compatibility, etc.  I truly suspect the fact this is a 12g "nano" system stocked with noxious soft corals is the reason for your troubles.  Regards, EricR>>

Saltwater tank problem  - 09/10/06
Hi Wet Web Crew, I've been a big fan for a long time and have tried to use your ideas/knowledge to properly maintain both a 90 gallon marine fish- only tank at home and more recently a 30 gallon marine setup at the office. My problem concerns the 30 gallon setup. I have two fish, a small Blue ring Angel and a Clownfish. The tank was set up using 20 gallons of water from the tank at home( PH, Nitrites, Nitrates all within proper levels) and 10 gallons of the "Natural" ocean water available in all of the pet stores. I have a Bio-wheel hang on filter which flows at a rate of 200 gallons per hour and a protein skimmer. All was well for about three weeks and then the water turned somewhat cloudy. Now the fish seem to be breathing faster then normal and are somewhat lethargic. I checked the water quality and it appears the Nitrates have gone up from Zero to .5. Any idea what is going on> Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. both fish came from home so they are not new purchases. Thanks, again.
<<Thomas:  Did you add any sand or live rock to the new tank?  If so, you could have acclimation issues with them.  If the water is cloudy, I suggest you do a water changes more frequently.  Rapid breathing can also indicate not enough oxygen.  On my 25, I also have a power head in a corner that flows across the top of the water to help the oxygen exchange.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Nano Tank Issues 9/5/06
I have a nano tank it has brown algae that is taking over the tank  I think I am taking care of it the way I should but.. I only have 2 blue damsels, a banded shrimp, a mandarin goby and a lemon goby, and 1 PJ cardinal, it is 24 gallon. <Way to much and inappropriate livestock.>  I water change 20 gallons every 2 weeks and last week I changed 3 gallons. <20 at one time?  If so way too much at one time> hoping to stop this algae.   It was cycled the right way. <Unlikely, probably had not started when you tested.> I didn't add any fish to it for 4 weeks and in the beginning it was working alright. <Good to wait> Since the first or second water change it seems to have gone downhill.  I am now starting to get all that hairy green stuff it's a mess.
Thanks
PZahner
<To some extent these blooms are normal and transitional.  However with that much livestock will likely continue to be a problem.  Cut back on bioload and you will probably see an improvement with time.>
<Chris>

Calcium Supplementation in a Small Tank - 09/03/06
Hello.
<<Howdy>>
I've read in your articles that with frequent water changes supplementation of calcium, strontium, magnesium and other trace elements is not necessary in salt water tanks.
<<Many times this is true...but it is highly dependent on the amount of calcium assimilating life in the system and the frequency/volume of the water changes>>
I am thinking of slowly changing my FOWLR tank into a reef tank. Would the above still be the case in a reef tank or is supplementation required when you begin adding corals?
<<Will depend on the quantity and the species...but it is easy enough to perform water tests to determine a need for supplementation>>
Just to give you some info on my tank it is a 10 gallon with 15 lbs of live rock and 50 watts of power compact lighting.
<<Ah, I see...a tank this size rarely if ever requires supplementation as it is quite simple and inexpensive to perform adequate water changes to keep up with mineral demands>>
Thanks for your time.
<<Quite welcome.  EricR>>

Small system - carbon, HOB fuge, and quarantine   8/24/06
Hi WWM team,
<Jeff>
Thanks for all your hard work. I've had a 29 gallon system running for about 8 months: AquaC Remora, vigorous water movement owing to two powerheads, 35+ lbs of live rock, and less than half an inch of CaribSea substrate (1mm). The tank is currently stocked with a single small mushroom, owing to a move I've long anticipated. (This is still a pretty interesting tank in its own right, as the various macroalgae have flourished absent predation.) I'm about ready to begin stocking this tank in earnest, but know I need to address at least two deficiencies first:
1. I'm not using activated carbon (having opted temporarily for frequent water changes given the low bioload).
<Can use/add or not...>
2. I have no media in my tank ready to transfer to a quarantine tank for biological filtration.
<Mmm, yes you do... you mentioned some substrate and macroalgae>
I don't strictly consider the lack of mechanical filtration to be a problem, but perhaps it will be when I increase the tank's load.
<Might>
Now my questions: I've been eyeing some of the HOB refugiums lately and was hoping I might be able to place both activated carbon and sponge (for the quarantine tank) in such a fuge. Would this generate enough water flow through the carbon to achieve a reasonable level of chemical filtration?
<Yes>
Would sufficient bacterial colonies grow on the sponge?
<Yes>
Or am I better served by a power filter with activated carbon and filter media?
<Nope>
Of course, I could try both, but real estate is a little scarce.
<Not here in S. California... and the price, along with the U.S. economy, will be dropping rapidly and soon>
Also, how important is water movement in a quarantine tank?
<Can be...>
From some of Calfo's posts my sense is that a sponge filter will suffice, but Steven Pro's RK article (2004) suggests one may want additional water movement.
Thanks. -Jeff
<Need to have some of both. Bob Fenner>

Re: High Alkalinity/Low Calcium...Dosing (Mis-Dosing) a Small Water Volume - 08/14/06
Correction.  My alkalinity hovers around 14 dKH.
Thanks,
Jackie
<<Ahh, a big difference from 14 meq/L.  Thank you for the correction.  EricR>>
Hello All,
<<Greetings>>
I read your forum often and find that you guys <<and gals>> are extremely knowledgeable about saltwater issues.
<<A collective effort covering a broad range...thank you>>
I hope you can lead me in the right direction.
<<I will try>>
I have a 25 gal tank (HQI Metal Halide 70W, 14,000K), 45 lbs live rock, 30 lbs live sand, with (2) Fire Shrimp, (2) Cleaner Shrimp, (1) Brittle Star, (2) Emerald Crabs, (1) Sally Lightfoot Crab, (3) Porcelain Crabs, (1) Royal Gramma, (1) Bubble Tip Anemone, (1) Anthias, (1) Blue Damsel, several snails, and Hermit crabs.
<<Mmm...too small a volume for the long-term health of the anemone (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm)>>
I perform regular water changes and am continually baffled as to why my alkalinity hovers around 14 dKH <<corrected from "meg/L">> and my calcium remains low (300 ppm).
<<This is not all that bad.  Yes, your alkalinity is a "bit" high...but both these readings are "acceptable" as they are.  But, you could start by validating these readings with new/different test kits and then test your salt mix for similar readings...you may need/want to consider another salt brand>>
I have a stock pump, MaxiJet 1200, and an AquaClear 30.  I dose B-Ionic A&B daily, and Iodine.
<<Ah...on this small volume of water, with frequent water changes, you should be able to maintain both alkalinity and calcium quite easily...and within balance.  You don't list anything in your stocking list that requires you to dose the two-part product.  I would stop this immediately, perform a 50% water change, and retest.  Likely after a couple more (smaller) water changes you will see a better balance to your water chemistry>>
Levels:
Temp - 78 F
pH - 8.15
Salinity - 1.023
<<Should be 1.025/.026>>
Phosphates - 0
Nitrates - 0
Nitrites - 0
Ammonia - 0.1
<<...?>>
Calcium - 300
Does anyone have any ideas as to why I'm having alkalinity issues?
Please advise.
<<Not a real "issue" at the moment.  But stop using the two-part mix and do a couple water changes with a good aged/buffered salt mix...I think you will see an improvement>>
Thanks,
Jackie
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: High Alkalinity/Low Calcium...Dosing (Mis-Dosing) a Small Water Volume - 08/14/06
Hello Eric,
<<Hi Jackie!>>
Thanks for the quick response.
<<Very welcome>>
I hate to belabor the issue...
<<No worries my friend, I'm here to help>>
I forgot to mention that I have a couple of stony corals, a bread crumb sponge, Pulsing Xenia, sea squirts, marine plants, and I will be adding some additional coral in the near future.
<<Ahh...I see>>
Do you still think it's a good idea to stop parts A&B?
<<I do...  In a 25g tank you should be able to easily and economically keep up with calcium/earth element demand through frequent partial water changes.  At the very least, do water tests to confirm a need before adding supplements>>
Also, will the water changes raise my calcium to the 400 ppm range?
<<If your source water has a calcium level in this range, yes.  But you don't need 400ppm calcium to have a successful reef tank...anything above 340ppm should be fine...in my opinion.  And do be aware that trying to maintain high calcium and high alkalinity together is a juggling act/gamble that can cause real problems.  Do please have a read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >>
Does raising the calcium level typically raise your alkalinity?
<<Depends...the two-part solutions are geared to maintaining a correct "balance" when dosed in the proper portions but are easily "overdone" on small systems with a light "demand" re.  If a one-time boost of just calcium is warranted, calcium chloride or my preference calcium gluconate are good options.  But these to are often/easily abused.  For your (any) system, water changes are the "best" thing you can do for a multitude of reasons.>>
I get the feeling that I won't be able to raise my calcium until I lower my alkalinity.
<<Affirmative...if only to avoid the possibility of a catastrophic precipitation event>>
Interesting information on anemones.  I wasn't aware that they can split.
<<Indeed...and becoming almost "commonplace" with Entacmaea quadricolor>>
Basically, you're saying my tank is too small to house an anemone.
<<I my opinion, yes.  Aside from the individual environmental needs of the anemone, you also have it housed in a small tank with sessile invertebrates...real trouble should it decide to go "walkabout"  And if/when it divides...>>
Do you think I should remove it?  He's really cool and I would miss him terribly
(when I feed him a piece of shrimp, I have to stand guard to ensure that my
other tank inhabitants don't steal his food).
<<If you have no other option...  But why not create a species tank for the anemone?  Say, a 40g display with just the anemone and a couple clownfish (though the fish are not necessary) and some live rock....would be quite nice, don't you think?  And by the way...the anemone should be fed no more than once a week with "minced or shredded" foods, or something on the size order of small frozen Mysis shrimp, even Cyclop-eeze.  Some authors believe many captive anemone mortalities are attributable to "over feeding", and even suggest many of the large anemones are detritivores/plankton feeders.  At any rate, you'll find your anemone can more easily ingest/digest the smaller food particles>>
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Thanks,
Jacqueline S. Morris
<<Regards, Eric H. Russell>>