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At war with brown slime 4/18/07 Hey
crew! (we need to coin a name a little more glorious than
that for y'all...) <Mmm, "O ye pet-fish
types"?> Just when all is well... my NanoCube24 has
been invaded by brown slime. For the last 2 weeks I've
been using every trick to battle it that I could find, including
reducing feedings for my fish, shortening my tanks "day",
using PhosEx, changing a few gallons every day,
etc... It's driving me batty! I've used 3
different test kits (all pretty fresh), and all say that there should
be no problems within my tank. <Mmm, consider... the algae (likely
BGA) is "taking up" the nutrient so quickly/well, that your
test kits aren't "finding it"... in the water> I
can't figure it out. This slime even seems to grow at
night, because by morning it's blanketing the sand
again. It's even begun to grow on my Button polyps, Star
polyps, and the shells of my hermit crabs.
Today I found this article in your database:
Solution to Brown Slime AKA Snot Algae. Rick Gibson's
investigation, eradication of
BGA 12/27/06 [ http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algnutrcontrolfaqs.htm
] Do you think that I could use SeaChem's
CupriSorb safely, without harming my inhabitants. <Likely so>
I'm currently a bit overstocked, as I seem to be the caretaker of
my friends livestock until they can reestablish their systems (one guys
house was hit by a tornado last week, killing his power and cracking
his tank, <Yikes!> while another in the same area won't have
power for another 3 days). So, aside from the polyps I
currently have a Pom-Pom crab, Peppermint shrimp, tiny Flame Angel, a
Damsel, Royal Gramma, and a Mandarin (he'll be going to the LFS to
live in their coral display tank till his daddy is ready for him
again). The last thing I want to do is have to find someone
to sit THIS collection as I am doing for others....
Do you think it'd work
safely? Thanks much, Darby <Adding a
refugium, DSB, macroalgae... Posted over and over on WWM. I'd hold
off on using the chemical filtrant till your friends' organisms are
removed. Bob Fenner> Botryocladia skottsbergii HELP! Rhodophyte control in a nano 7/2/06 Hi Great website. Its may mainstay of info. <Glad it is of use to/for you> I have mainly all PICO and NANO sized tanks. I have two tanks with beautiful growth of coralline and many zoos and other corals, however it being over run with Botryocladia skotsbergii. At first I did not mind it, but now its just gotten out of hand. Even my hermits and snails all sport coats of the stuff...... <Yikes... "Attack of the Sea Grapes"!> Simply stated. I need it gone or at least a way to control it. I tired to manually clean it off the rocks, but it seems to propagate it. Tanks are much to small for a tang unless I "rent" a small one for awhile. I use I/O salt, SG is 1.026, temp 81 deg, cal 460, alk 11.6, ph 8.3, I use Chaeto for nutrient export and run a protein skimmer as well. The tank that is worst is a 12 gal nano. Is there any other small fish that would eat this stuff.......that would be better suited than a tang.......I sure do not want to ruin my live rock and its encrusted life. Any help is greatly appreciated. Roy Hauer <Mmm, an excellent discussion of various "bubble algae" here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-02/hcj/feature/index.php including input on control means. Turbo species snails and small tangs of the genera Ctenochaetus and Zebrasoma would be my first tries... though these last can't live in such small confines indefinitely. Bob Fenner> Quality nano vacuum/s 7/2/06 Hi, I've got a six gallon nano tank (saltwater) and was wondering if you guys know of a good quality, battery powered vacuum. <Mmm, this is sort of a "conflict in terms"... that is to say, most all such battery-operated vacuums are not of very high quality. However, the best of these are made by Eheim (not easily found in the "west", but can be had...> I want one that will clean debris from the sandbed and can also be used for water change siphoning. <Mmm, will need two for these tasks... I'd get a smaller diameter "regular" one (Tetra has some smaller diameter ones that you can still find about) for the latter purpose> I've been surfing the web and have come across many different types/brands but I can't tell which ones are of good quality. Can you guys point me in the right direction? Thanks, and happy reefing, Greg <Glad to proffer my opinions here. Have used many makes, models... the Eheim and Tetra manufacturers are excellent. Bob Fenner> - 10 Gallon Marine Tank 6/16/06 - Hi guys, <Hi.> I started off with a 10g marine tank a month back and cycled it with live rock, after which I added two red legged hermit crabs to the system. Recently I have noticed brownish colored algae appearing on the crushed coral substrate and the back glass panel. <Very common in new tanks - diatom algae.> I do not have a skimmer in the system, am I going to need a skimmer for the small tank or biweekly 10% water change will be sufficient?? <Tank of this size you'd be challenged to find a worthwhile skimmer that would fit. I think the water change plan should get you through just fine.> I plan on adding a pair of clowns and soft coral, I was wondering if this is appropriate for the tank of this size?? <Corals yes, fish, no.> Also how long shall I wait before I add the fish ?? <Until you get a larger tank.> Shall I wait for the algae to clear or is it suitable to add the fish with the algae in the tank ??? I will really appreciate it if you could please answer my questions. Thanks, Roy <Cheers, J -- > Small system problems 6/10/06 Dear Crew, <Desirae> I have been perusing through your articles trying to find the answers I need. I actually have a few! First, I have had a 10 gal saltwater set up for about a year now, doing wonderfully, except my tail-spot blenny. I think he might have internal parasites, because he has squiggly lines in his stomach protruding, like he ate spaghetti or something. He was doing fine for the longest time, and now he seems to be wasting. I feed him Cyclop-eeze (what my store recommended) and a frozen algae that Dr. Fosters and Smith recommended for them, but he seems to be wasting now. I have owned him for probably six months, and I did not have this problem until a month or so ago. I hate to lose Dr. Seuss! <I'll bet. There are vermifuges you might try... covered on WWM> Also, my boyfriend has a 29 gal salt, which recently, well, pretty much crashed. All his mushrooms, zoanthids, and hard corals kicked it. His water tests 0 on nitrates and all that good, well bad actually, stuff. The only thing we have not tested for is phosphates. But anyway, all his stuff died except pulsating Xenia, pink-tipped tulip anemones, star grass (looks like crap though), and another Xenia. His anemones have went from 2 to 11 within a month, <Telling> and he had a horrible algae problem. The algae is receding finally. His jawfish took a dive out of the tank, and his tail-spot blenny kicked it, but it looked unhealthy from the get go (don't ask me why he got it!) His coralline (sp?) algae is also looking horrible, it's starting to die off. I recently noticed brownish red flatworms, and they are multiplying quickly! Could they be the culprit? <Unlikely... perhaps the anemones had a large role here, but sounds more like maintenance and general allelopathy amongst the cnidarians...> What could we put with a firefish, a cleaner goby, and a sexy anemone shrimp to devour the little suckers? <... In a 29? Maybe some Peppermint Shrimp> Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!! And if you have answered questions like this, and I couldn't find it, I apologize! Desirae A. Lee <Larger tanks for your upcoming holiday gifts? Bob Fenner> Looking for a change ... small SW maint. 6/5/06 Hi Crew, <Good evening to you!> I have a 10 gallon that is about 3 years old with some fish and mushrooms. It has an inch of fine sand, about 10 pounds of rock both which were replaced in the past few months. It also has a penguin mini filter that has a bio wheel and a glass cover minus the plastic hinge and a 65w pc bulb. I recently added a Fission skimmer (by Current) but I am not sure it does much. <Probably not, but with extremely diligent water changes, you shouldn't really need a skimmer with a 10 gallon tank. However one is always helpful.> It does have lots of bubbles in the cup but it is never brown. I change 1 gallon a week. Any suggestion as to what I might try (besides getting a larger tank) such as eliminating the filter etc. so as to reduce the salt creep caused by the water going from the filter back into the tank. <Salt creep is pretty much going to happen no matter what you do. You could (but this may be going overboard for just a 10 gallon) set up a sump (another 10 gal maybe) and then attach a wet/dry or canister filter there. Also your heater, protein skimmer and so on. So you have an uninterrupted view into your show tank. Other words really nothing much besides upgrading. A tank that small is difficult on all levels. Good luck, Jen S.> Things are going well (thought you might like some good news for once) Oh yes! 6/3/06 Buenas Tardes Crew ! <Buenos dias ahora mismo> Just for a change of pace, I thought I would let you know that by reading, researching and absorbing the incredible mass of information available at WWM my new AquaPod 24 marine is doing quite well indeed. The cycle is complete, all water quality readings are stable and some coralline algae have made their appearance on the live rock *without* any nuisance algae appearing (digits crossed for luck). I am starting to think that soon I will be able to add worms and 'pods to the substrate to keep things coming along slowly. <Yay!> Minor dips in pH and alk were anticipated thanks to your advice, and a plentiful exchange of water was promptly instituted to keep things in balance. Allowing for displacement from the DSB and LR my tank only has a total volume of 18 gallons of water, thus doing a 50% change of water is not exactly a Herculean task beyond the dreams of Avarice LOL. <Chuckle> So, things are going quite well here, and I am greatly enjoying my return to being a marine aquarist (lets not even talk about the tank I set up in Chula Vista in 1978). <Now I can't get that KGB song out of my head... Chu la Vis ta, Chu la Vis ta! Ah, the beautiful view> The one thing which has made the experience so relaxing and enjoyable is the simple knowledge that when a test reading seems 'funny', or something looks 'wrong' and a film of sweat appears on my forehead the answer is just a mouse click away at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/. Buenas noches y mucho gracias John <De nada mi amigo. Roberto Fenner> About my hermit crabs... and no-no's re nanos... maint. 5/28/06 Hi, guys, I have spent all evening reading your very interesting site. It has already answered many of my questions about hermit crabs. But I would like, if possible, to have a straight answer to the following questions: <Okay> How many hermit crabs do I need for a 24 nano tank with about 15 pounds of live rock? <Need? None, zero, zip> I have about 13 hermit crabs, 3 snails, and a emerald crab. <Watch this last... can become an "eater upper"...> At the beginning they did an excellent job and cleaned all of my rocks in about a week. My rocks looked superb with beautiful violet and green colorations. But they seem not to be cleaning them as much. Many times I do not even see them. They spend many hours hidden in the rocks! Therefore, the rocks are being covered with red and brown hairy algae which seems impossible to get rid of despite my weekly changes of water, an installation of another power head and reduction of the hours of light from 12 to 9 hours per day. Why are they so shy and disinterested in cleaning the rocks? <Mmm, very likely there has been a "natural" shift in the make-up/preponderance of the algae types/species/groups here... from the more tasty "red and greens" to the less-palatable browns and BGA... and also probable, a shift in food/feeding preference to excess food from scavenging.> Besides the cleaning crew I have two blue chromis and a rose bulb anemone with its beautiful clown fish. Jeanette <... dangerously crowded... Do be "religious" re water quality testing, water changes... Bob Fenner> Pico Reef Tank - 07/29/06 Hi WWM crew: <<Howdy Jeff!>> After a couple of years of keeping a medium-sized (46 gallon) reef tank and learning all the million and one things NOT to do, I've decided--even though I know I have to learn another billion or so things NOT to do--to take the plunge into a Pico reef tank. (Yes, I'm aware that most nanos and picos fail in the long-run, so I'm taking this risk with no illusions.) <<Mmm, must admit to disliking pico/nano systems...death traps for the most part, in my humble opinion>> I've been continually learning by first-hand experience, by countless hours of reading your FAQ's, articles and books, and by talking with other "reef geeks". <<Let's hope it will be enough...>> Now here's my set-up plan: TANK, EQUIPMENT, & SUPPLIES - 3 gallon mini Deco with 18 watts of PC light, 50/50 (dimensions 12.5"L x 9.5"W x 7.5"H), Deco power filter (Hang-on) with 80 gph of flow (so about 27X turnover per hour) - note: filter cartridge to be replaced by a bag of Seachem's Purigen. <<A good idea>> Tetra 50 Watt heater (4.5" long, fully submersible, preset at 78F) <<Hmm...this sounds too large...would quickly do damage if it were to "stick on">> Algae magnet cleaner, Digital thermometer, Refractometer, AP saltwater test kit, Salifert Alk test kit, Seachem Reef Salt, Seachem Reef Buffer. <<Dosing additives is dangerous/should be unnecessary on this small volume of water. Frequent partial water changes will be quick/easy and will provide/replenish all the elements this tank will need...and do so safely>> MAINTENANCE REGIMEN - DAILY: 2 CUPS of water change (approximately 4% of tank volume daily), Top-off (I have yet to measure exactly how much water is lost to evaporation in 24 hours; if necessary I may have to top-off twice a day--once in the morning and once in the evening) <<Indeed...won't take much evaporation to cause large swings in water chemistry>> Scrape algae off acrylic wall, monitor temperature, pH, and specific gravity. -WEEKLY: Siphon of substrate & LR, cleaning of filter & replacement of Purigen as necessary, salt water mix prep in 5 gal bucket w/heater & powerhead, refill top-off water bucket, test for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, & Alkalinity. SUBSTRATE: .5" of white sand, 2-3 lbs of live rock. LIVE STOCK: This is where I need advice. I know that stocking this tank will be the most critical. <<Indeed...won't be keeping much in this tiny volume of water>> I gave it a lot of thought and decided it will house only the following: A single colony of some species of xenia (I've actually kept the elongata species in my larger tank, and it has grown rapidly) - 2 red-leg hermit crabs - 1 Astrea snail I choose xenia because they're relatively hardy, almost fully autotrophic, <<Mmm, do feed through absorption...have been proposed as viable organisms for "animal" filters (a vessel filled with organisms utilized for the water filtering capacity>> and because I love their pulsing behavior. I'm thinking the waste from the live rock, crabs and snail will give it enough sustenance without me having to feed it by polluting the water. <<Possibly, yes>> I'm afraid of putting any food in the tank at all since overfeeding would be too easy. <<Agreed>> I will also not dose any supplements & additives--too dangerous in this system. <<Ah...good!>> Besides, the Seachem Reef Salt (which I'm using for my larger tank) contains good levels of trace elements. <<Agreed again>> My Question is: which species of xenia would you recommend (if at all)? <<X. elongata or X. umbellata would be fine choices I think. Though if you've kept Xenia before you should be aware that sometimes it declines for "no apparent reason">> And would the wastes produced from the LR, crabs & snail be sufficient supplemental nutrition? <<Maybe...though the crab and snail may need supplemental feeding at some point...maybe best provided by exchanging the old rock with new>> If not, what "feeding" regimen would you recommend? <<At this point, none. If you choose not to swap out old rock for new (about every 4-6 months...maybe more often), a shrimp pellet or two (literally), tossed in every 3-4 days may suffice>> Best Regards, ~Jeff <<Cheers, EricR>> Nano Questions ... maint. mostly 07/21/06 Hi crew. Darius Boscarino again. <And James here again.> I wrote a few days ago about keeping an anemone in a nanocube. I spend hours on your site every day and with all this reading I come up with so many questions, then I research them. Then that leads me to even more questions that I tend to forget some of them. So, on to the questions (sorry if they are random): I understand I'll need a protein skimmer. The Current USA Fission nano skimmer seems to be fine. I think I'll purchase it as soon as my speedy reply. :-) It pumps 84 gal/hr (still 7x/hr) but I already have a 230 gal/hr pump. Too much water movement isn't bad (I don't think :-/) but with the size of the tank and the power the water comes out of these pumps, I think it could cause some problems. <Unlikely> Also, I've read that skimmers remove trace elements. "questions"... Would it be OK to only run the skimmer only at night and turn off the regular pump? Or vice versa? And what brand calcium supplement should I use? <Weekly water changes/supplements will replenish lost trace elements. I'd leave the skimmer run 24/7. Calcium brand is your choice. I use SeaChem.> Another question. Since an anemone is out of the question, <Yes> I was told a colt coral or a finger leather would act as a host to a false percula. <I have seen clowns in many different corals. I had a pair that called an Elegance Coral home. The clownfish will decide here.> Reading your site, I found that the colt coral grows fast. Can I get a scientific name of a nice colt coral that won't outgrow my tank for a while? <Cladiella sp.> Along the same line. If that coral will be so big, can I still have blue mushrooms on the other side of the tank? <Colt coral is semi-aggressive, may get away with it.> Did you want some more questions? That one doesn't count. Umm.... last question I can think of for the night. What calcium and alkalinity tests will give me accurate "numbers" and that tests high enough? Because I noticed a lot of people use the LaMotte test but I looked into it and it said it tests up to 200 mg/L. <LaMotte makes several calcium test kits in different test ranges. Salifert and SeaChem give good results with a much lower price tag.> Thank you for the future success for the animals (soon to be) in my nano cube. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog) Darius. Small SW systems, stocking, listening, maint. 7/8/06 Hi Crew, Am I imagining it or are you really getting more emails about small tanks. <A growing trend...> I have a 10 gallon and it is now 3 years old. The Crew has really been very helpful especially when I listen to them. <Heeeee!> It took me a long time to get to the point of leaving things alone for a while so it can settle in. <A good, useful trait> I have a clown goby (2 years), a spotted cardinal (2 years) and a royal Gramma (year and 1/2). A little overcrowded but sometimes it is just too hard to listen to you. <Q-tips?> The Gramma is not a good choice in this size tank, he is too bossy but he is very colorful. I have added snails, mushrooms and mini stars during that period. <Bingo> The mushrooms really add color being that I have red, green, blue, lavender and purple ones. I have not figured out what makes them split. <... a multitude of influences... "Stress" (crowding, competition), opportunity (space, food, light...)> My red split a lot when I first got them but not lately. I have a Rhodactis type that is green and lavender and that one just keeps splitting from its foot. I also have two candy cane and a star polyp. One candy cane came with 3 heads and now has four. The other came with two heads, one regular size and one that looked like it would not make it. One head started growing very large end then finally split into 3 heads. Now the other head seems to be growing larger. I got 6 mini brittle stars and now there are hundreds. You rarely see them in the daytime, but when the lights are out they are all over the place. There is actually a lot to see after the lights are out. <Ah, yes... as on a natural reef> I have a hair algae problem and did what was suggested and things did improve. But I decided to get some help for my 4 virgin Nerite snails. So I got 3 astrea, 3 keyhole limpets and 4 Tegula snails about 3 weeks ago. The glass is now very clean. I have one large rock and one small area of it has been fairly well cleaned. I actually saw the astrea eating hair algae as if he was sipping spaghetti. But there is plenty to go. But so far I am happy with the results. <Good> My main objective was to get the limpets but at this point I do not know which are the better cleaners. One limpet was on my star polyp which is about 2x3 inches and all the polyps closed up. The limpet has moved a little and there does not seem to be any damage where it used to be but I guess the polyps just do not feel safe having that guy crawl on it. I tried to remove the limpet but it was stuck tight. <Best to slip something underneath... my fave, a single-edge razor blade> Actually it looks pretty with the polyps closed since it has a bright maroon base and the polyps are just brown. No questions today. Just want people to know that these small tanks can work and can be very colorful. My maintenance is changing one gallon every week and once in a while I remove algae. I never clean the sand. I forgot to mention that I also have 4 Nassarius snails. I have a Penguin mini filter and a 65w PC. <Thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner> Herbivore for a Nano Tank? - 05/27/06 Hello! <<Howdy!>> Wow, what a massive amount of information you have here on the WWM! <<Indeed>> It's been fun to read, and reading I've been doing! <<Excellent>> First, tank specs: Aqua-cube 24 - 6 months now, pH at <7.8 (desperately trying to raise this, more later) <<Mmm, are you buffering your make-up/salt mix water? Have you tested the pH on these?>> Ammonia at zero, Nitrites at zero, Nitrates at <20, Calcium at 380 (raising this) <<Why? 380ppm is fine...is not always a good thing to flirt with the upper limits>> Salinity at 1.025, 10% water change weekly - just got a RO unit and I hope this may help reduce algae. <<Possibly>> Temp at 80 and because of the 12 hours of lighting, can't seem to reduce it. <<Should be fine really...but you could try placing a small fan to blow across the surface of the water for some evaporative cooling>> 12 lb. of LR (curing more as we speak - moved up from a 12 gal. Eclipse - don't get me started) 10 lb. LS over a crushed coral substrate 2 mated Clarkii Clowns (had 3, that was an adventure) with a hosted Sebae Anemone (yeah I know, but so far so good) 2 peppermint shrimp 4 snails 4 Hermit crabs, 2 small, 2 very small 1 sally lightfoot crab <<Keep a watchful eye on the crab...could jeopardize your fish as it grows larger>> Much lighter feedings now that I've learned better. <<Lighter, but more frequent I hope>> So my question is this. As my pH has dropped, red and green algae has bloomed all over my LR - over bloomed (the snails have taken care of the glass) - and from what I've read, this is a typical occurrence. <<Algae succession, yes...though not having filtered make-up water may be a big factor here as well>> I would like to take a natural approach to reducing it rather than a chemical one. <<A biological solution is always better, along with determining/eliminating the cause. Hopefully you have gone through our nuisance algae FAQs?>> What fish can I get to eat the hairy, stringy algae, without over taxing my system. <<You're quite limited by the size of the system...no tangs please!>> I am very aware and consigned to keep the bio-load and stocking of this small tank light. <<Very good to hear>> Lawnmower Blenny? Sand sifting fish? What? <<The blenny is likely your best option...though as I'm sure you are aware, is no guarantee>> Thanks for your help!!! Thomas Simpson <<Regards, Eric Russell>> Critters in a 10 Gallon 5/26/06 Greetings, <Hi> I started a 10 gal marine tank. I have about 8.5 lbs of Fiji live rock in it with a percula clown, blue damsel and a yellow goby. <A lot of life for a little tank.> The water is reading good for nitrites and nitrates, ph is 8.0. I use Instant Ocean salt, but I have been finding my salinity levels going up and down, that is probably my fault. <One reason small tanks are such a problem> I am new to Marine tanks and am trying to find a perfect amount of salt to put in by trial and error. Anyways, I have noticed a large infestation of these small round, bent, wormlike things all over my glass and they are spreading by the day. <Likely pods of some sort> I have scraped them off and they keep on multiplying. <That is what they are good at> I got a few emerald crabs to try and get them to eat these?? <Should probably stop adding organisms to this tank> According to the LFS?? They are a little larger than a grain of ocean salt. I can try to take a pic, but I don't have a good camera. Any idea? Shawn T. <Likely common pods of some sort, completely normal and harmless. One of the many critters you will find with live rock.> <Chris> High Nitrates in a Nano System - 05/14/06 Hello
everyone, <<Hello!>> Thanks in advance for your help and
all the great information on your site. <<Quite
welcome...glad you find it useful>> I have a 12 gallon eclipse
system that has been set up for a little over 4 months with about 15
lbs of live rock and 1 1/2-inch sand bed. I've also upgraded the
stock light to a 32w SunPaq 50/50 and added a sand shark internal
filter for extra flow. After reading about the bio-wheel I
took it out and am now running the stock filter with Chemipure and some
filter floss changed every few days. <<Great!>>
My inhabitants are: 2 firefish, 1 percula clown, 2 feather dusters, 1
open brain, 4 crabs, 1 red foot snail, 1 sand sifting star, <<The
star will not live in this small system...please do some reading here
and among the links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sndsftstrfaqs.htm
>> 1 skunk shrimp, zoanthids, and 4 mushrooms. Even
with twice weekly 1 - 1 1/2 gallon water changes, I am
constantly battling high nitrates. <<Mmm, your source water
maybe?>> They stay around 60 ppm. <<Yikes! This
should be having deleterious effects on your
livestock. Check your test kits...use new/kits of a
different brand to confirm>> My ammonia and nitrite levels are at
0. My feeding schedule is as follows: 2 or 3 flakes of
Formula One broken up into edible pieces, 4 times per week, 1/4 inch of
Liquid Life Marine Plankton, 3 times per week, <<I would suspend
feeding this product (any/all liquid foods) until you determine/correct
your nitrate problem>> 2 pellets of Formula One, twice per week,
hand feed brain one small piece of frozen scallop twice per
week. All the inhabitants seems to be doing
well. The zoa's are multiplying, the brain is nicely
colored and eats well, and the fish do not seem to be distressed at
all. <<Which makes me suspect your test kit all the
more>> My question is, would it be beneficial to also add Purigen
in the filter with the Chemipure? Any suggestions in
battling this nitrate problem would be very helpful. <<The
Purigen could prove useful on this system...but more important is
determining the source of your nitrates. If the nitrate
reading is true, it will soon start to malaffect your
livestock. Firstly, confirm the validity of your test kit,
if accurate, check your source water (are you filtering your
water?)...if both test kits and source water check out, start doing 50%
water changes every other day to bring the nitrates down until you can
determine/eliminate the source...and have a read
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
>> Thanks, Debra
Those Dang Nano-Reefs - 05/10/2006 Hi Crew, <Hello.> I have a 10gallon (2 years) with a Gramma, clown goby and spotted cardinal, mushrooms and 2 candy canes. <Way'¦.Way too many fish my friend.> About 2 months ago I moved the animals out of their tank into a new 10 gallon with new sand and rocks (after curing). <Why not an upgrade to at least 20 gals'¦'¦'¦> The old tank had lots of hair algae and some kind of grass like algae which was on rocks and also on the candy cane. <Nutrient problems are to blame'¦'¦small tank, lots of feeding I'm guessing and overstocking, a recipe for disaster.> There has been very little algae growth in the new tank. In fact I lost my 2 turban snails and I suspect there was not enough to feed them. The only hair algae now is on a small mushroom rock that was moved from the old tank. My problem is the grass like algae on the candy cane. This stuff is like tiny wires. It is fairly short and feels like wire. It is difficult to get a good hold of and pulling on it rips some off but most of it stays behind. And I think what comes off just tears away but does not get it totally from its 'root'. It does not come off by brushing. <Read WWM re: nutrient control and algae'¦.in short you need more water flow, less nutrients and what type of light are you using? I also see no mention of water chemistry.> It does not seem to be growing in the new environment but I do not see it going away either. Do you think it will eventually wither If I can keep the nutrients down (fat chance). <Yes fat chance with all those fish is right.> Would it be better to put it in a high flow area or would that be detrimental to the candy cane. My high flow (only flow) is where my filter water comes back into the tank. <That's not too high'¦moving it there is acceptable'¦and read this: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks <Adam J.> Nano-Cube Cycled? 4/20/06 Hello, I have a 12g Nano Cube that I've been running for about 10 weeks now. It's completely stock with no modifications or additions. <There are many that you should make to make this tank sufficient. Do a search for mods.> I have about 2" of live sand over which I've placed about 10lbs of Fiji live rock. Parameters are as follows: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, PH 8.2. Salinity 1.022. I perform a 1 gal water change twice a week using distilled water and Instant Ocean. Lights are on a timer set for 14 hrs a day. Temp runs about 81-82. Animals include: 1 small clown fish, 1 fire goby, 1 sand sifting goby (not sure of the name, sorry), 3 small blue leg hermits, 6 small algae eating snails (Trochus?), xenia coral, 4" zoanthid colony, 4" star polyp colony, 3" mushroom colony. <Wow, this is an awful lot to have in a tank so young. You really should've taken more time adding organisms here.> When I purchased the tank, my LFS told me that the tank would cycle in about three days. <That's actually amusing, it should take a least 2 weeks, sometimes up to a month to cycle properly.> I thought this was dubious information but being a trusting fellow I proceeded. I didn't begin testing the water until about day 5 at which time (all test readings being 0), I added the zoanthids, and have slowly added items at a rate of about 1 per week. While I've continued to test about once per week the only measurable amounts of Ammonia, Nitrite, or Nitrate I've had have been an occasional increase in Ammonia when I would add a new addition to the tank and this would then settle back down after a day. <Normal> At no time have I ever had a Nitrate level above 0. My questions is this: Has this tank ever actually cycled? <Probably considering the time frame here.> If so, should I avoid making water changes until I begin to see a rise in the Nitrate level? <Absolutely keep up with the water changes, you have too much in your tank to be able to not do them.> If not, am I doomed or is there a way I can finish he cycle without killing everything in the tank. I have no other tank to use at this point. Thanks for your great web site as it's already helped immensely. Sincerely, David. <You're probably fine here, but take note that I said "probably". I really do believe you added way too much too fast. It is important that you keep a VERY close eye on parameters right now. (this is always true with a nano system. You don't have ANY room to error here) I would test twice a week, stay with your once a week water changes, and once again, watch closely. Good luck, Jen S.> Marine Algae; Still Frustrating You After Death -
04/19/06 Hi <Hello Simon.> I have decided to retire from my
salt water hobby and move into fresh water. <I'm sorry to hear
that'¦.I guess.> I have emptied/dismantled my old tank but
am struggling to clean it. The main concern is what appears to be both
green and purple (probably coralline algae) on the glass and plastic
back divider - I have one of those JBJ Nanos. <Ahhh'¦.you
started your marine endeavor with a 'ready-made'
tank and a nano at that'¦..that is why you became frustrated
with the hobby I surmise.> I have tried scrubbing at it using one of
those algae removal pads, but that was unsuccessful. I am reluctant to
use a razor because of scratching - particularly against the plastic.
<I understand.> Do you have any suggested methods given that the
tank is empty. <The tank is free of livestock and empty correct? If
so do the following: Fill the tank with tap water and generous portion
of distilled vinegar, let it sit for at least 24 hours, then attempt to
use a credit card or straight edge (Kent pro-scrapers are great) to get
it off.> The tank is stored in a dark place - would it be fair to
say that the algae will die off ? <It is dead I surmise, just the
calcified remains left over.> With regards to my next project, I
would like to create a fresh water tank which is a microcosm of a
particular environment - such as the Amazon or whatever may be suitable
to my tank dimensions. So I would want it to contain the same
livestock, landscape, parameters that you might find in such a setting.
I was just wanting to know whether you have any resources that may
describe those environments and their configurations so that I could
plan. <Read through the WWM and net re: the bio-tope first then if
you get any specific questions I would love to help.> Your response
is appreciated. <Quite welcome.> Regards Simon <Adam
J.> Cloudy/Milky Water 4/4/06 Hi WWM Crew: <Bonnie> I have had a Marineland Magnum 350 canister with a bio-wheel hooked up to my 25 gal. reef tank since I set up the tank in Sept. 2005. The plastic media basket keeps collapsing. I faithfully clean it each Saturday. I got tried of it collapsing and the water flow being impeded, so this past Saturday I replaced it with a Marineland Emperor 280. It's a smaller hang-on-the tank unit with a smaller bio-wheel. It's only been 2 days and now my water is sort of milky. <Yes... a "bacterial bloom"... not uncommon> My tank has 30 lbs. of live rock in it, so I didn't think it would matter too much taking off the old bio-wheel & canister unit and hooking up the new one. So, now I'm thinking maybe removing the old bio-wheel had something to do with it. <Likely> My calcium level was low 280; so I've start dosing 5ml of just the calcium component of my 2-part EVS solutions. My dKH is 12, pH 8.23 during the day and 8.06 just before lights come back on in the a.m. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bonnie <I say "stay the course" here... Be careful re feeding, monitor ammonia, nitrite and be patient... This too shall clear. Bob Fenner> Not Quite a Nano'¦.Smaller Reef Aquaria Care;
Trouble-Shooting 3/30/06 Hi Bob, <No not Bob, Adam J with
you this morning.> I'm fairly new to the hobby and WWM has been
extremely valuable for the survival of my tanks thus far. <Glad to
hear it.> I have two reefs started, a 29 gal and a 75 gal.
<Okay.> My 29 Gallon: - Penguin 350 Bio-Wheel Filter - Zoomed
Power sweep 228 Power head <You would have been better off with a
protein skimmer than the penguin.> - 35 lbs of LR - 4"
Aragonite Substrate - 7-8 Small Feather Dusters (LR Hitchhikers) - 2
Hawaiian Feather dusters (Bought 1 and a second just Appeared) - 1
Yellow Sea Cucumber - 12 Hermits (Red and Blue Legs) - 5 Turbo Snails
<Far too many for this tank size, 2 would be more than enough.> -
1 Cleaner Shrimp - 2 Peppermint Shrimp - 1 Orange Sea Star - 1 Domino
Damselfish ( I'll be moving him to my 75) <I would prefer to see
this potential 6' monster go back to the LFS.> - 1 Fire fish
Goby - 1 Bicolor Blenny - 1 Six Line Wrasse - Hairy Mushroom Coral and
Green Star Polyps Wow, after listing all of that I am starting to think
I am way overstocked. <I think if you ditch the damsel, stay up on
your H2O changes and consider a protein skimmer'¦you may be
okay.> I have a couple questions. <Sure.> Are there any
compatibility issues that I may run into? <The domino vs. (anything
in the tank) and as you allude to below peppermints sometimes have a
knack for be mischievous in a reef-environment. You also need to keep
your water quality pristine, as some of your invertebrate critters can
be quite sensitive.> I think that my Peppermint shrimps are
harassing my Hawaiian feather dusters but I haven't saw any proof.
I have been feeding most of my live stock with Garlic and Ginger
enriched Mysis Shrimp and I have been feeding the coral and inverts
with Phyto-plankton. I use Purple Up to accelerate the coralline algae
growth <High calcium levels and a proper alk. will do the same
thing.> and for Iodine and trace elements every 2 days instead of
everyday just to keep the calcium in check. My water quality is
pristine but I seeing a decline in the health of my star polyps. There
doesn't seem to be as many polyps out recently and it appears that
some of the corals base is coming off of the LR. <What spot in the
tank are they? Are they in contact with your
mushrooms'¦'¦'¦.maybe the peppermint shrimp?
Try moving them to another area with more light and more floe, see how
that goes.> I'm sorry for the long email <No worries.> and
would greatly appreciate your help and advise. <Anytime.> You
seem to be a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the great site, <Thank
you for this.> Omar <Adam J.> Nitrates! 03/07/06 Hello Guys! <... and gals...> I really have appreciated all the great advice I have received from you all so I wanted to see if you can help me again. I have a 20 gallon tank consisting of 17lbs. of L.R, emperor 280, a week old Aqua C Remora skimmer, power compact lighting, skunk cleaner shrimp, a skunk clown fish, a few mushroom frags, red grape kelp, and a peach sebae anemone. <A "tough boat to row" here... given the species listed, the size of this system... a constant battle...> I bought the fish and anemone Saturday and like a genius did not check the water before I went to purchase them. I checked the water when I brought them home and discovered my nitrates to be 20ppm. I did a quick water change (5 gallons), then checked it again and it did not drop any. I put the fish in anyway that night and on Sunday I did another water change, same results as before. Needless to say I did a total of 3 water changes w/o any drop. <One of the problems with small volumes> I asked my local fish guy what to do and he recommended Chaetomorpha but was closed so I haven't applied that yet and a Pura filter which I added- no change. I had another fish guy test my water hoping my kit was wrong but his read the same as mine. I put some nitrate reducing pebbles- no change. I've changed 15 of the 20 gallons in my tank what more can I do?! Thank You, Melanie <Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm and the linked Related FAQs at top... You need a larger system... Oh, and do read re Heteractis crispa while you have time. Bob Fenner> Question about lighting... small SW systems stocking, keeping - 2/28/2006 Hello WWM Crew. <Arielle> I have a 10 gallon tank with some beloved critters in it: a clownfish, pajama cardinal, firefish goby, three Christmas worm rocks, a Hawaiian feather duster, some Zoa frags, and a small bubble tip anemone (which my clownfish has very happily just discovered). <... not easy to keep all this in such small confines... and when, not if, something goes awry, will crash quickly> The tank originally came with a 13" 24W 10000K Blue 50/50 Jebo straight pin bulb set; I tried to find the exact same bulbs with no luck, and so I purchased a Coralife 50/50 with Actinic 03 Blue, also 10000K. When I installed the new light, I noticed immediately the difference in color - my old light was very white and bright, and this new bulb is very purple and subdued. Although I've been told that this purple light is supposed to be much more aesthetically pleasing, I prefer the brighter lights; can you recommend a good 50/50 brand that would be brighter but equally suitable for my tank? <... I want to skip ahead and strongly encourage you not to replace this light, but instead upgrade to a much larger system... at least forty gallons> I absolutely love the Christmas worms in my tank; is there some way I can encourage them to grow or reproduce? <Time, feeding, stability may do it> Do you have recommendations on the best way to care for them? <Posted... on WWM> Thanks for your time, Arielle Kim <Please do read re "Nano" or small reef systems: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm Particularly set-up, maintenance, stocking... Bob Fenner> Sea slugs for nano reef 2/26/06 Hi Adam, <... which one? No prev. corr.> I have a 20gal. nano reef that you probably remember, but I'll still give you the inhabitants again. I have 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 yellow-tailed blue damselfish, 8 Blueleg hermit crabs, 1 large hairy mushroom, 2 small mushrooms probably Discosoma, 1 Lobophyllia, 1 colony of daisy polyps and a small colony of star polyps. I am having a little problem with bristleworms, and hair algae. I was looking on your site for something to deal with them. For the bristleworms I was thinking of a Philinopsis gardineri sea slug but I saw that it would eat the bristleworms but wasn't sure if that is the best way to get rid of them. I already tried an arrow crab. He was dead in 2 days (I have not had luck with shrimp or crabs except for Blueleg hermits. I suspect there may be something living in the rock that eats them) I also didn't see what to feed it if it runs out of worms. <Best here to bait, trap and remove these... see WWM re> (I think this is very unlikely). For hair algae control I was thinking of some kind of sea hare, or preferably a lettuce nudibranch. <No, not a good idea/choice> I saw that the nudibranch eats algae but didn't see if it would eat hair algae. Even if it doesn't I still would like to have one if it would be compatible with the other inhabitants including a Philinopsis gardineri. I do have some dried algae that I could feed it on if it runs out of hair algae (also very unlikely). Also my daisy polyps seem to be dying off in the front of the colony. I was wondering if this could be due to bristleworms. <Not likely. Much more possible is the allelopathy from other cnidarians present> I do see them on it every night. It is only dying back on the very front, so I am not sure if it is because of bristleworms. (perhaps it is they are just old or not receiving adequate light or current.) If the lettuce nudibranch wouldn't work could you recommend a good sea hare to control the algae. Would the hermits eat the slugs? Thanks for all of your help, MDM <... I would use other means of algae control here... See the Google search tool on WWM, the indices... re Filamentous or Hair Green Algae. Read. Bob Fenner> Small Marine System maint., Kalk use 2/14/06 Hello, I've been searching the WetWebMedia site, but I haven't been able to find what I'm looking for. Hopefully this question hasn't already been addressed. I have a six gallon nano with about five pounds of live rock, a baby Percula, <Too small a tank...> a baby Puncticulatus, an Astrea snail, green pipe cleaner looking macroalgae and about an inch and a half deep aragonite sand bed. I would like to add Xenia Elongata, but my pH is too low. So I was wondering, (if I'm very careful) do you think I can raise my pH via Kalkwasser? <Could be done... but dangerous in small volumes... I'd look to two-part solutions here... Like B-Ionic> My present water values are as follows: ca 290, alk 13 dKH, temp 76, sg 1.025 pH 8.1-8.2 Kalkwasser seems perfect to get my pH and calcium up without raising my alkalinity, but I'm not sure if it's too much for my tiny tank to handle. The tanks been up and running for about seven months and I have been doing 15% water changes with demineralized, aerated, buffered Instant Ocean water. <Good practice, technique> I really appreciate all the work you and the crew have put into the web site, It's helped me and others tremendously, I can't thank you enough. <This is enough. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Sincerely, Greg I would like to say... Success in a small, seeming under-lit reef system Thank you for a great book Robert, "the Conscientious marine aquarist" has been invaluable to me in setting up my first reef saltwater tank, despite your warnings, i started up a Nano reef on 15 gallons. my very first saltwater tank, and its been running for 1 year now, a complete success, no illness, no water chemistry problems, what is more, its a full blown reef. <Testament to your preparation, good care... and luck!> I was wondering a bit about the section on lighting in your book, there you mention that one should have 3-5 watts per gallon when keeping hardy invertebrates and macro algae, and 7-10 watts for corals and anemones. <Of likely "normal output" fluorescents> My tank only has a lighting of 30 watts, that's 2 watts per gallon (a full spectrum and a blue actinic fluorescent tube) despite it seeming to be low output i have soft corals and even a LPS and SPS that are thriving under the light. <Can be done, yes> Naturally i am pleased about everything going well but i am still curious why it may be going so well? Some say that Actinic lighting has a greater effect on coral health and growth than the full spectrum lights, could this have anything to do with it? <Not likely, no> because my system runs with one Marine White 9600k 15w and one Marine Blue Actinic 15w fluorescents. Regards, Mark <There is a wide and varying range of "photo-adaptation" in cnidarians... initially a matter of species and depth where collected mainly... An important factor is also a given species, group's capacity for deriving nutrition from other sources (feeding, chemical...). Some individuals, species are better/worse at "starving" and making up for nutritional lackings... Bob Fenner> Cyano in Nano 1/14/06 Greetings WWM crew,
<Hello.> I have been searching your site but the answers that I
find contradict each other . <Uh-yeah that's the marine aquarium
hobby for yah'.> I have a bit of a small problem with a salt
tank that has been up and running close to a year and a half. The tank
needed replaced due to a leak and has since stabilized out nicely .
<Cool.> But the problem that I am running into is red slime algae
, and before you pin point it yes I did over feed the tank , that is
truly my fault . <...> It is now covering rocks and sand and
starting to choke out the corals and zoas ,so I need to gain
control NOW. I have cut the feedings down to 2x a week and have been
doing aprox 10% water changes 2 x a week and the regular 30% on Sunday.
<Sounds good/better thus far.> I also need to move the tank and
rescape (due to rotten neighbors) . <sounds like there's a story
behind that.> I would like to replace the sand bed and reseed with
some old sand . <Be sure to use fine sand, stay away from the coarse
stuff.> I also would like to take the rocks that the red slime and
quite possibly cyn have gotten hold of and scrub them rinse and place
back into the tank I would also scrub all equipment as well . <I
would use a soft (new) toothbrush for this in a Rubbermaid tub of old
tank water.> I would drain 80% of the water for reuse and
the other 20 to scrub the rocks . <Sounds good.> Can this safely
be done ? <Yes the only concern I have id for the livestock, when
you do get the tank set-up again it is going to be quite unstable
following this grueling process, it may cycle again to some degree. You
need to plan ahead for this weather it be a large quarantine system or
having the LFS hold them for a few weeks.> The other thing is that I
would like to add Chemi clean to battle this from 2 directions ,
knowing that it will reoccur if I do not fix it from the source .
<Correct.> Is it safe for the tank and corals , cleaner shrimp
and micro brittle stars . <It claims to be though personally I would
rather not use it if I didn't have to.> The tank parameters are
as follows: 7gallon mb <Ahh, now I see, small tank...nutrients
accumulate quickly.> temp 76.7-77.7 degrees (not much higher or
lower) Lighting 72 watts pc lighting Ammonia 0 ppm nitrAte 10 ppm
<Even with all the H2O changes? Where else could detritus/nutrients
be accumulating? Possibly a filter pad or behind/on the live rock? Or
perhaps this is due to the lack of a skimmer...> NitrIte 0 ppm
<Methinks you need to get a phosphate test kit.> ph 8.4 spg 1.023
(JBJ digi tester) 2 mini jet 606 power heads penguin 150 filter (with
out BioWheel ) run with carbon pads and Chemi pure carbon washed out in
old salt water weekly and changed monthly , Chemi pure also rinsed out
weekly and changed every 3 months . <What is your source water?>
Thank you for your help <Mmm-hmm.> Heather <Adam J.> Overstocked Nano and Algae Problems 1/4/06 Hello, <Hi Joe.> I have a 24 gallon NanoCube tank with two percula clownfish and three seahorses. <Mmm, methinks you need to be reading up on your sea horses, this tank and the livestock within it as well, are completely inappropriate for this species, read here: www.seahorse.org .> The tank has been running for about a year and everything is going well, except for one thing: Algae. <Some nutrients to blame I'm guessing, you have quite the heavy load and nanos are quite unstable and yours doesn't even include a protein skimmer.> Red slime algae, hair algae, and tons of other kinds of algae just keep growing and growing. <What is your water change regime, do you clean out the sponges in the cube compartments regularly?> I clean the tank glass everyday with an algae scraper, because if I do not do this, after about a week the glass becomes so covered you cannot see through it. Slime algae grows all over the live rock and live sand. I purchased some hermit crabs and cerith snails to get rid of my algae problem, but they have done nothing to make it any better (probably just keep it from getting worse). <Or make it worse my adding more livestock to the tank.> I do weekly water changes of 10 gallons, <Good.> and my nitrates are >10 so I do not know what could be sparking the algae growth. <See my above comments. Also do you test for phosphates, how much water flow do you have? (not so much I'm guessing with seahorses) Maybe some possible detritus accumulation? And last question; how old is your light bulb?> Any suggestions to counter the algae would be very helpful. Thanks, Joseph Marano <Adam J.> Seachem marine buffer 8.3 and Kent nano reef 01/01/2006 Hi, first of all happy new year to you all :D <And to you> I've been running my tank for quite a while now and my pH seems to be fluctuating between 7.8 to about 8.0. I believe it seems a bit on the low side and was wondering if adding Seachem marine buffer 8.3, i.e. the one that says will maintain pH at 8.3 would be any good to my system. At the moment I'm not adding any additives, just salt water only. I was hoping to raise the pH to 8.2 or 8.3. My alkalinity at the moment is around 8dKH and I hope adding SeaChem's marine buffer won't over dose it to ultra high dKH. <I like Sea Chem's Reef Builder, will increase dKH gradually.> Also a side question. I want to eventually keep LPSs, I understand they use calcium. My calcium is around 370 ppm at the moment and was wondering if the Kent nano reef 2 part do well if I also use SeaChem marine buffer at the same time ? Would the SeaChem buffer or the part B Kent nano reef be affected by each other in terms of alkalinity etc...as I do not want to get silly high dKH. Yet keep my calcium around 430-450. <Personally I don't like the Part A/B additives. Your best bet would be Sea Chem's Reef Builder and Reef Calcium (both in the dry formula)>. Everything else is fine in my 20 gallon tank :D only got a single zoo polyp (there's an old anemone next to it that's disturbing it slightly tho and I can't get it away from my zoo :( - came with my live rock) and a mushroom rock. Thanks for everything and good health to you all for the new year :D <Thank you. James (Salty Dog)> Ern Nano Stocking/Filtration...Problems - 01/01/06 Hey crew, <<Hey Eric>> I picked up a used 12g cube setup from someone who was moving. It was up and running for a year, though the guy didn't do any water changes! <<Awful...and inexcusable, specially in a system this size!>> I've kept the setup he had as far as the filtration goes: sponge and Caulerpa in the first section, bioballs, carbon bag in the second, and another bag (I'm not sure what it is) in the third. It has one true percula, one peppermint and one blood cleaner shrimp, margarita snails, nassirus? <<Nassarius>> snails and hermits, xenia, a purple tip anemone, some other unidentified inverts, bubble coral and 2 brain corals. Though I tried to retain as much of the original water as possible, the open brain didn't make it. <<Not surprised>> The water was ok for a couple of weeks, including some 10% changes spread out over a week, but recently the other open brain died and I've noticed film buildup on the surface. I did some a 10% change today and will do another one tomorrow. The water parameters as of yesterday were: ammonia - 0, pH - 8.1, nitrite - 0, nitrate 10 (though since there is no 0 reading in the test kit it could be less than 10 and I wouldn't know it) <<Get a different/better test kit.>> and calcium 350 (I added some today). The film looks almost like a green oil slick. <<I would make sure to put small amount of fresh carbon (changed weekly) in that second filter chamber and remove the "unknown" bag of material from the third and replace with Poly-Filter.>> I realized that the powerhead in the tank (not the filter one) was clogged with a snail. When I removed that and the circulation picked up, the film broke up for a day but returned. What is causing the film? <<Hard to say for sure at this point.>> Is this normal? Is my tank possibly recycling due to the move? <<A real possibility.>> The other inhabitants all look healthy. I only feed once or twice over a day at most, and only a few flakes or a cube of frozen food at a time and I sometimes skip a day. <<Best to feed daily.>> I also add some phytoplankton or reef solution once a week as per instructions. <<I would stop this...a possible source of pollution.>> I was wondering if maybe I should change the filtration around. Have you seen anyone getting a skimmer or using other filtration on these cubes with any success? <<Finding/fitting a skimmer to this size tank can be a challenge. A weekly 20% water change is more practical in my opinion.>> Do you have any suggestions as to what I should do? <<Maintaining these small system can be problematic, things goes sour very fast in such a small volume of water. But for this tank I recommend you add a few pounds of live rock (6-8) and remove the sponge and bio-balls from the filter (give it about three weeks after adding the rock before removing). Adding another small powerhead for circulation will likely benefit too.>> I also have an ID question to which I haven't been able to find an answer. <<ok>> I noticed today a green creature, which looks like an annelid of some sort. It is about 2-3 inches, with a pointed end and what looks like a the tip of an elephant trunk at the other. It has remained curled up though it twitches when it gets touched by a crab or shrimp. It is neon green, like an inchworm, so at first I thought it was on of the green tube worms out of its tube but it doesn't have any tentacles or bristles. My camera is in repair so I can't send a photo. Do you have an idea of what this creature might be? <<Impossible to say, though aside from the color, if I were to take a stab I would say do a search on 'peanut worm' and see what you find.>> Lastly, do you think I can safely fit another fish or shrimp in this tank? If so, do you have any recommendations of something that would be forgiving and interesting? <<I would not add anything else to this tank until you get it stabilized.>> Thanks, Eric <<Regards, EricR>> Ten gallon reef tank maintenance mainly 12/30/2005 Hi Crew, I have a 10 gallon SW tank 2 1/2 years old with sand, rocks, fish, snails and mushrooms and a Coralife 96 watt CF. This tank has some hair algae on the rocks and snails. <I'll bet... a lot of light in a small volume> The glass on two sides (up against walls) is almost covered in coralline algae. The open sides that I can see into the tank get a green film on them within a few days of cleaning. Is the outside lighting on the two open sides contributing to the green algae growth on the glass? <Yes, likely so> I have another 10 gallon (6 months) with sand, rocks, pods, worms, hermits and Chaeto and an 18 watt florescent and one snail which just died. I guess there was not enough algae for him. I am going to be moving (a couple blocks away) and will not have room for 2 tanks. I need to replace the sand in the older tank because it feels clumpy so I will probably use the newer tank with its sand and rocks after the move. But I will use the water from the older tank plus the old filter which is a Penguin Mini with a Biowheel. Will this give me enough bacteria or will I need to keep some of the old rock? <I would use some of the old rock as well> What about my snails. Are they going to have enough to eat in the cleaner tank or will it replenish quick enough due to the use of the old water? Have a happy New Year! <Depends on the species... I would try a single Turbo species. Bob Fenner> Competing Corals In a Small System! 12/15/05 Hello, <Hi there! Scott F. back today!> You guys have an invaluable website. Thank you for all the information you have available for people in the hobby. My tank information is as follows: 29 gal. tank with 25 lbs. live rock, 1" fine sand bed, CRP Bak pak skimmer, Marineland canister filter with bio-wheel cleaned weekly), 3 PH's in tank to circulate water attached to a wavemaker. I perform 10% weekly water changes using Instant Ocean Salt. pH 8.1 to 8.3, salinity .025, temperature consistently 75-75 degrees, ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, phosphates are all 0. Tank up and running since 9/1/05. Tank inhabitants are: 1 Bubble Coral, 1 Frogspawn, 1 Hammerhead, 1 Pink Sinularia (which I'm not sure is a natural color or is dyed), 1 Brown Toadstool, 2 Goniopora frags, 1 Xenia frag (which does pulse), 2 Ocellaris Clownfish, 2 Cleaner Shrimp (that crawl all over everything -- very irritating), and 6 snails. Everything was doing great, fully extended until I introduced the Toadstool and pink Sinularia to the tank about 2 weeks ago. <Not an uncommon occurrence...These guys emit lots of powerful chemical compounds that can irritate and damage other corals.> I have since read that both Toadstools and Sinularia both can let off stinging cells. It seems all the corals I really like are the aggressive ones. The 2 Goniopora are only half extended now, and the Sinularia seems to be limp most of the time, which is supposedly an easy coral to grow. What would be your suggestion, or what would you remove from this tank to remedy the situation. I can always take back the corals to my LFS for partial credit. Thank you very much for your words of wisdom which are greatly appreciated. Have a Merry Christmas! Bonnie <Well, Bonnie, you have great taste in corals. It's just that the ones that you are keeping are utterly incompatible in small systems! I suppose that I'd start be reconsidering the Sinularia and Toadstool (Sarcophyton). The Sinularia is problematic for many other corals, and the Sarcophyton simply gets huge! In addition to basically taking over the tank with its sheer size, the allelopathic compounds that it emits can damage other corals. On the other hand, there is a strange complimentary tolerance with Xenia and Sarcophyton: They do okay together. Again, I'd implore you to reconsider the Sarcophyton- it simply gets too large for this tank. The Frogspawn and Bubble Corals are extremely aggressive to other corals, which will be disastrous in such a small tank. If it were me, I'd limit my corals to the Xenia and maybe the Goniopora. However, Goniopora are surprisingly aggressive in their own right. The other option is just the Frogspawn, which can grow to a nice size and make for a spectacular display. Think about the long-term goals for your tank, and what you want to accomplish! Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.> Major Problems. Please Help! 12/9/05 Hello. I'm having a major problem in my reef tank. I read and read and read before starting this endeavor. I have a 20gal wide tank. Seaclone 100 Protein Skimmer. I also have an AquaClear 50 with mechanical filtration and harmful nutrient removing sponge. I use Red Sea Synthetic Salt Mix and keep the specific gravity @ 1.024 -1.025. I have a Hydor Theo heater and digital thermometer that reads anywhere from 75.6 - 77.7 degrees. I have 2 20W 20K bulbs and 1 20W Actinic bulb all of which are 24" in length. I also have 2 Current USA lunar lights. All lights are on timers with an attempt to simulate sunrise/sunset. I have about 10lbs of live rock and 10lbs of other rock that are now growing lime green and purple algae. <All sounds OK. I would suggest a bit higher temp in the 78-82 range, though.> When I first set up the tank I set the specific gravity and was using only the hang on the back filter with carbon and also biological filtration that I pulled from an established tank. I put a Domino Damsel in and it got ich (bought from Petco). I then slowly started adding live rock and tested for ammonia spikes. After the ammonia was 0 and nitrites were 0 with nitrates around 10ppm I added a Sally Lightfoot crab, Peppermint Shrimp, Brittle star, and 5 Zebra Snails all within a month. Shortly thereafter the lightfoot captured my damsel and ate it. I removed the carcass and did a small water change. After waiting a few weeks and performing a few 10% weekly water changes I noticed Diatom Algae blooms and waited it out. I then bought a mushroom colony. A couple weeks later I bought a colony of long polyp green zoanthids, which now seem to not been extending the polyps as far out and looking like they're curling at the tips and a small colony of brown short polyp zoanthids. I waited a couple weeks while continuing routine water changes and my girlfriend and I picked out a Bubble Coral. A week later I bought a Finger Leather Coral. After I put in the leather the Bubble started to not come out as much and was looking like the skin was coming up from the base and the 'bones' in some places had become exposed and were growing algae. I tried moving the Leather to the other side of the tank but noticed my mushrooms becoming irritated so I decided to return the leather. I then bought a small Sailfin Tang from Petco (I shoulda learned from the first time) which also came down with ich. Luckily my Peppermint has cleaned him off completely. I moved the Bubble Coral out of current and in less light. It seems to be doing a lot better although I cant tell if the skin is still receding. I have since bought a Frogspawn which was doing great up until the last few days. It was opening up greatly and was a beauty. Now it doesn't seem to open at all sometimes the mouth is exposed. It looks like part of the back may be damaged like a tear where it connects to the branch. I fed it once a piece of thawed out raw shrimp meat and it readily ate it. I also feed the tank DT's phyto twice a week. I have large amount of copepods and other living creatures in my 1-2inch crushed coral bed. After a while I noticed little green worms that I've now recognized as flatworms. <This tank is much too small for any tang. If this fish is or grows to be more than about 3" total length, it really should go to at least a 75 gallon or larger tank. All of your corals sound like they are suffering from generally poor water quality or some kind of irritant. I would discontinue the use of any chemical media ("harmful nutrient removing sponge") as they generally don't help much and may contain irritating chemicals. Soft corals (especially mushrooms and leathers) produce noxious chemicals that are meant to stunt the growth of other corals that may compete for space. Bubble corals and Euphylllias (like your frogspawn) are among the most sensitive to these chemicals. Receding tissue and gaping mouths are classic symptoms of all of the above problems.> I had been adding in Calcium to replenish not raise as my alkalinity is 5.5 and ph 8.1 holding steady, and also Iodide. I realized that I was still using carbon and was told to remove it all together that it also removes good nutrients. I removed the biological filter because my Nitrates were on the rise, not ammonia or nitrite though. Then I noticed that my ammonia was spiking my nitrites are on the rise as well as my nitrates. <If your alkalinity is 5.5meq/L, this is a bit high, if it is 5.5dKh, this is quite low. Proper alkalinity is very important! If you have live rock and saw an ammonia spike, something is wrong. Either the biological filtration of the rock has been impaired, or something is rotting in the tank. See here for some general filtration info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/Filtration/Filtration.htm> To rid the flatworms instead of using chemicals I thought I would try a 6 line Wrasse and Pseudochromis. The odd thing is I stopped feeding my Tang Seaweed and he's been the only 1 eating the flatworms. Its not working very well as of yet. Unfortunately the pseudo has been showing signs of ich and my Wrasse seems ok. <Some wrasses and some other fish that are known to eat flatworms, usually only do so occasionally and if no other food source is available. I am surprised that the tang is eating them, but great! As for the ich... this is a separate problem that should be addressed. In order to eliminate it, the fish must all be removed and treated. Your display must stay fish free for at least a month. Once you have returned the ich free fish to the display, no other fish should ever be added without at least a 30 day quarantine period.> My ammonia has gone from 0 to .25 to now approaching .50 the Nitrites are stable @ .25 and the Nitrates are climbing. I've since stop supplementing with Iodide and Calcium. I plan on doing a large maybe 30% water change this weekend, but I'm afraid that what's happening is my tank is recycling and its in turn affected my corals health and that I need to let it go until it fully cycles again, but I'm confused as to why the ammonia and nitrates are climbing but not the nitrites. I hope you guys can help me out as I loved the tank when it was doing well and truly enjoy the hobby. <This rise in ammonia is alarming, and depending on the cause, a big rise in nitrite does not always occur. I would verify the ammonia result with another test kit. If it is real, something in the tank must be rotting. Crushed coral is notorious for trapping uneaten food and other detritus and allowing it to rot. I would suggest aggressively vacuuming the crushed coral and consider removing it or replacing it with something finer. If you have a local marine aquarium society, they can be tremendously helpful. Many offer "mentors" who will drop by and take a look at your system and help you out. Best Regards. AdamC.> 10 Gal. Nano... Is It Worth Another Go? - 12/05/2005 Hi,
<Hello Sue.> Had to care for my dad for the past couple months
and did not get to up keep on my nano tank which is 10 gal, 20+lbs of
live rock 3 inches living sand. Mostly the water changes were
neglected. I have copepods which I grew initially in the tank then
added discarded corals such as: Frogs Spawn, Xenia and Star Polyps.
Everything was happy and growing. I had 1-2 blue legged hermits.
Everyone was very happy in my tank. I have had this set up for
the past 4 years nothing new has been added. I use an airstone on one
side for help in water circulation, as the pumps I tried were to
strong. I used an old filter that is a fresh water filter for a small
tank with a carbon filter in the other side which creates water flow.
This is my copepod nursery, they love to live in it. The problem is
that I put 2 small live rocks with unusual living things into the tank
from a tank that had hair algae. About the same time my dad had needed
the extra care. Now I notice I have hair algae. <This would be from
the two months w/o proper water changes more than anything. A 10 gal.
tank will go down hill rapidly unless every aspect of general
maintenance is upheld religiously, though I believe you made the right
choice.> I did a partial water change. Then having to work 3 days
planned to watch and wait. What happened is my husband of nearly 30
years decided to crank up the heat in the tank... <Oops!> as the
temp. dipped overnight and was 72, and clean the front glass as it had
a fine growth of hair algae. This was fairly normal as the lights then
would heat the tank back up to 74-76 during the day. With winter
arriving I needed to add the heater. The live rock had looked fine no
hair algae noted at the time of the water change. With the slight
increase in temp.....and scraping the algae off the glass my husband
decided the tank should be closed and took everything except those
little creatures <The hermits?> and put them into my son's 75
gallon tank, took off my heater and my lights. <Hope he had the
couch ready!> I went to work instructing him to watch the heat, as
it can easily overheat, closely but when I came home I found all that
is left of my tank is the water, sand and my empty tank. I came home
from work at midnight to find this... <I'm sure he meant well,
but...> After crying a bit and reviewing Wet Web to try to determine
the source of algae to correct the matter biologically and live with
the rest if I can. I just need some help and guidance to see if I can
put things back up. <Ok> We use tap water as the controversy even
in Wet Web regarding RO water made me wonder if the expense for the
system was worth it. <Yes, not 100% necessary.> I didn't have
a protein skimmer as I just easily did small water changes 1-2 times a
week (until my dad needed care, he passed away) <My sincerest
condolences.> I had wanted to get back to this tank but now am so
wondering if I can. What do you think? <Absolutely! A nearly perfect
place to start. Replace your filter, heater and lights. Allow all to
stabilize (at least a mini-cycle coming, perhaps a full blown cycle).
Then that's it, good as new!> Any advise even if you think the
tank would be better not restarted would greatly be appreciated. <Go
for it!> Sue <Josh> Floating things 11/30/05 Dear crew <Simon> Was hoping you could help me out with a problem/question. I have a nano saltwater tank. It holds about 15 pounds of live rock and 1 tank bred False Percula. There are a couple of snails a whole bunch of worm like creatures as well as some Aiptasia that I am one day going to work out how to get rid of. Last night I noticed what appeared to be this floating brown stuff on the water surface. I'm sorry that I cant give you a great description, but I will try. It almost appears like it is kind of like a brine shrimp substance, but just scum floating on the surface. It could be algae or maybe it could be eggs. I am not quite sure. I am not happy with the filtration of my tank, I would like to get a stronger pump as I feel the water isn't being circulated enough. I have a powerhead to create current. I do regular RO water changes. <What you describe is not uncommon in tanks with poor filtration and no skimmer. Just waste bonding together for the most part. Weekly water changes will help. You mention water changes but not the frequency of them. I would use a filter capable of turning over 10X the volume of the tank and preferably a filter than chemical media can be used in to help purify the water.> I have had the clown fish for several months and he "appears" to be doing fine. He used to have an anemone, but it perished (lesson learnt). <Yes, anemones are short lived in nanos.> <<Not Aiptasia! <giggle> Marina>> Ever since it died, the clown fish behaviour has changed slightly. His swimming is more erratic, and he does a bit of vertical swimming. Although he appears to be still be generally normal (although I imagine stressed/displaced from the loss of his home). Any suggestions on what the floating stuff is? <As above> Regards, Simon <Thank you, James (Salty Dog)> Tridacnid Lighting and Small Water Volumes Hello, I love your site and how detailed it is. <Hello and thank you.> I am planning on putting a 24 gallon cube tank in my office. I was hoping to add maybe one or two light intensive animals a bubble tip anemone or a lower light clam. <Well as I'm sure you know maintaining either in such a small water volume is going to be a difficult task. I would leave out the anemone as most will grow to large for this tank as well as harm/sting other sessile invertebrates like your proposed clam. As far as lower light clams, all that fall into that category (that are readily available), T. squamosa, T. derasa, T. hippopus all get well over 12' in length.> When they get bigger I was planning to move them to my larger 55gal <Ok that would work.> but in the mean time I'm trying to determine what is my best lighting course of action. Stock the cube comes with 32w daylight and 32w actinic PCs, obviously this will need upgrading. My current choices are between adding an additional 64w of daylight PCs or a 70w HQI probably at 14,000k. Are either of these choices acceptable for these critters growth? <Either will be acceptable for juv. Clams of the species listed however a few other concerns should be adjusted. Both of these lighting systems will significantly increase the heat on the system and thus the evaporation. So daily or automatic top-off should be a priority. Tridacnids also need a very stable environment so bi-weekly water changes to combat dropping calcium levels and raising nutrient levels are a must.> The PC is the cheap option the MH significantly more and I don't know that a 70w fixture is strong enough anyway. Any thoughts? <70 watts of MH is strong enough and the bulb life is significantly longer but they will add even more heat than the PC's'¦.in short you can make either work but it will take discipline.> Derek <Adam J.> Washington, DC <SoCal.> Bristle Worms In My Nanos - 11-07-05 HI! <<Hello!>> At my work we have 2 small saltwater tanks (one is an 8 gallon and one is the 12 gallon nano cube). In the past week I have noticed 7-8 bristle worms. <<Beneficial detritivores>> Some of them are about an inch long, and some of them are up to 3 inches. <<You're probably overfeeding the tanks a bit.>> I have 2 questions. 1.) How big will these get? Should I try to remove them before they get any bigger or will they be ok, left alone. <<Several different species of Bristleworm...likely what you have won't grow much larger and are of more benefit than harm. Reduce the amount of excess food in the tanks and they will be self limiting. Personally, I wouldn't worry/bother with the worms.>> 2.) We also lost 2 snails from one tank and one from the other over the weekend. Could this be related to the bristle worms or was this caused by another problem in the tank? <<Astrea snails? If so likely neither, my experience has been that these snails are not all that long lived in closed systems.>> Thank you so much for your help!!! Emily in Cincinnati OH <<A pleasure to assist. EricR in Columbia SC>> Nano Lighting and Alk/Calcium Levels 10/28/05 Hello Crew Member, <Hi Don.> I was thinking of upgrading my lighting system... <Okay.> I currently am running a retrofitted Eclipse hood 1 - 15W Coralife MarineGlo fluorescent (runs from 9:15am-9:30pm) 2 - 13W 50/50 pc's (running from 10:30am-6:30pm) I was thinking of replacing it w/ 1 - 96W 50/50 Aqualight and having it run from 9:30-9:30 <Well it would help to know what the targeted photosynthetic specimens are to give you the best answer as to how this lighting system relates to your system. I will say that this lighting system will dramatically increase the heat in your system, so look into fans and top-off systems.> My Aquarium specs are: 15 Gal. Tall 1 - 15W Coralife MarineGlo fluorescent (runs from 9:15am-9:30pm) 2 - 13W 50/50 pc's (running from 10:30am-6:30pm) eclipse 1 filtration system (120 gal/hr pump w/ carbon filtration and BioWheel) <Carbon is rather has quite a short half/life and after 24 hours of usage is rather inert, after that its really just a breeding ground for bacteria, really its not necessary in a mature system. As far as the bio-wheel, it's a quality filter but in a marine tank, especially one of this size I would rather see a protein skimmer.> 1 Rio 200 w/ a hydro Flo diverter 2-3" LS bed <Your in 'No Mans land' with your sand bed, should be 1' or less for aesthetics or 4' or more for the effects of a Deep Sand Bed.> 18Lbs. LR 2 Reef Hermits 1 Left handed Hermit 2 Margarita snails 1 Rainford's Goby <How is he eating? This species often starves in smaller/un-mature aquaria as it is mostly a filamentous algae eater.> pH 8.2 (even w/ high alk stays consistent) Ca 500ppm (this is a drop from 800ppm) <I imagine you had a snowstorm, (calcium precipitation during this 800 ppm period.> NH3/NH4 0 NO2 0.00 NO3 0 Alk (off the charts) (no change recently) <Should be between 7 and 12 dKH.> temp 80 F Gravity 1.025 Water changes are being preformed weekly (4-5 gals) Ro/Di water low amounts of salt mix added as I am attempting to lower both Alk and Calcium. <Well you still need to keep the S.G. levels up with inverts in the tank, you need some sort of Alk/ph buffering product. Though the stable pH is a bit odd, maybe bad test kit? I would try to confirm you readings with a local store.> <<Brand, age, storage are all contributing factors to the efficacy and reliability of any test. MH>> Thanks for your time Don <Welcome, Adam J.> WORM 10/7/05 Hi Crew, I have a 10 gallon SW tank with sand(1.5"), a few small rocks and a few fish, hermits and snails. The setup is about 28 months old with pods and tiny worms. At times I look into it at night to see what the night life looks like and every once in a while I am surprised by some new creature. And last night was a real surprise, a worm (looks like a bristle worm) about 6 inches long and slightly thinner than a pencil and when it contracted it looked like it was a half inch thick. How could this thing be hiding in this small tank without me catching a glimpse of it? Basically I do not mind letting him stay but his body mass is probably much more that all my fish combined. I assume he is helping things out since my water parameters are good. But if it dies will my system crash? <Sam, aquariums need to be monitored for just that problem, whether it would be worm, fish, etc. In your case with a 10 gallon tank, things can go bad real fast if a problem goes unnoticed. An ammonia test every few days wouldn't hurt.
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