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| FAQs about SPS Corals
2
Related Articles: SPS Corals, Acroporid
Corals, Dyed
Corals,
Related FAQs:
SPS 1,
SPS Identification,
SPS Behavior,
SPS Compatibility, SPS Selection,
SPS Systems, SPS
Feeding, SPS Disease,
SPS Reproduction, Acroporid
Corals, Agariciid Corals, Astrocoeniid Corals,
Merulinid Corals, Pectiniid Corals, Pocilloporid
Corals, Siderastreid Corals, Stony Coral Behavior,
Coral System Set-Up, Coral
System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral
Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior,
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Re: Less Problematic Large Angel In SPS Dominated Reefs 9/4/06
James at al.,
Thanks for your reply.
Trying to obtain all the info I can get on this issue before I decide, I've been
re-reading your "angel compatibility FAQ", and noticed one of your crew answers
that, somehow, I missed before.
When asked the top three large angels he'd choose for a reef, on a "blind
decision", Bob Fenner answered: "<Okay... Pomacanthus annularis, Genicanthus
species of any kind you like, Chaetodonoplus mesoleucos... my choices. Bob
Fenner>.
The Genicanthus spp. is easy to understand, but I've been wondering why the P.
annularis. Specially in number one. Is it because of a specific diet or
behaviour that is distinct from the other Pomacanthus?
<I don't believe that Bob recommended these fish as "safe" reef dwellers, just
the ones he would choose "if" he had to make a choice. The annularis will nip
at base of sessile invertebrates including corals. They are also known to
pick/nip on tridacnid clams.>
I did not consider the P. Annularis before, because I had the impression it
would be similar to the P. Imperator (which I prefer) as regards its "reef
safeness", but this statement made me look at it with new eyes... And if the
Annularis is less "Russian roulette" than the ones I've been considering, I may
opt for it.
<If you MUST have an angel, I would go with Bob's suggestions keeping in mind
that none are totally safe.>
Regards,
<And to you. James (Salty Dog)>
João
Coral Lighting 8/21/06
Hi gang, great site it’s been a source of information for me for many years.
<Glad you enjoy/learn.>
I am in the process of planning out a new 125 gallon SPS reef. I’ve had a 55
gallon Zoa tank set up for the last 2 years and I’ve been very successful
with it and now I’d like to upgrade to something a little more challenging.
That being said, I have a few questions on lighting.
I had initially planned to go with 3 250watt MH HQI (10000k) and also use 220
watts of VHO 20000k for some additional color. However, I was told that
I’d need to go with 3 400watt MH HQI for Acro frags.
<Who told you that, Edison?>
I question this; it seems like an ungodly amount of light for a tank of this
depth and I worry it would overwhelm even the most demanding corals and I wanted
to get your
thoughts on it.
<Three 175 MH's should work fine providing they are not pendant lights.>
Second, I plan to use my old 55 as a fuge with a remote DSB and would like to
place some of my more colorful Zoa colonies in the SPS tank (probably more
towards the bottom) for additional color. I run activated charcoal regularly to
help maintain water clarity and I skim aggressively, with that said, do you see
an issue with the zoa’s in a SPS tank?
<I'd filter with Chemi-Pure in this regard. You will have some chemical
aggression taking place here and we want to minimize the chemical content in the
water. If you are going to mix corals, stay away from the potent types like
Galaxy, Elegance, etc. Do search our site and others for Allelopathy/Chemical
Aggression.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
John
SPS collection business 8/21/06
Dear Bob and crew,
<Alan>
I'm thinking of starting an exclusive Acropora collecting business to supply to
the trade. I only wish to collect Acroporas from the wild by
fragging a few branches from a colony and gluing them unto rocks for sale in
order to minimize impact on ecosystem.
<Mmm... can't really be done this way... need to collect colonies, keep them in
captive conditions... some time (months) later frag them... Too hard to make the
transition otherwise>
I suppose this will generate faster returns rather than having an aquaculture
facility which requires more overhead cost and time.
<...>
Do you think this is viable in the long run?
<Nope>
Any words of wisdom? Thanks a lot.
Best regards,
Lee
<Keep studying, dreaming, planning... Bob Fenner>
Lighting/SPS Corals 7/24/06
Great site.......you have helped me greatly in the past. One quick question.
I have a 100g tank with 2 65w 10,000K bulbs and 2 Actinic 65w bulbs. Can I grow
SPS corals with this lighting,
<No>
Or do I need MH bulbs? Please let me know and if I need MH bulbs, which ones do
you recommend?
<If you tell me your tank dimensions, I can better answer your question.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jeromy
Sharks and Corals 7/19/06
Hello.
<Hi there>
I have a 300 gallon shark tank with 2 young banded bamboo shark in it that
hatched at my home.
<Neat>
I have a very large cave structure that is cemented together in the center of
the tank that they sleep in and prowl around.
<Good layout>
The rest of the tank is open water. I was wondering since my rock work is so
stable and I can't even topple it over if that I could keep some SPS corals
on the top of the cave close to the surface to dress the tank up a bit.
<Mmm, maybe...>
I would choose corals that don't sting of course.
<Not really much of an issue...>
Would this be a problem?
<Likely will have problems with water quality for the SPS (need high biomineral,
alkalinity content), perhaps easily knocked off the rock at night...>
In the wild they live around the stuff so I figured it would be ok.
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Justin.
<Worth trying. Bob Fenner>
Feeding the Reef Tank 7/4/06
Hi there....sorry for asking 2 questions in one day.
<No worries.>
I'll make this short.
<Awesome.>
What product do you recommend as food for SPS corals?
<Large refugia is great, other than that variety...specifically?; Read this:
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic20086-9-1.aspx .>
Or personally, what product have you used for SPS food and have had great
results?
<Google: Eric "Hugo" Borneman Recipe.>
Thank you
<Adam J.>
Lighting For SPS....Buying the right light - 5/17/2006
Hello crew,
<Hi Tim>
First off I want to thank you guys for taking the time to look at this
e-mail. I am trying to get the right light for my reef tank. I am planning on
upgrading to metal halide lighting. My display is a 75 gallon tank that
measures 48" long x 18" wide x 18" deep (from the sand). I already have a
couple Acropora frags as well as two Stylophora pistillata specimens. This is
the kind of coral which I primarily wish to house. I plan on using balanced
lighting, most probably in the form of both 10,000K and 20,000K bulbs. I was
looking at a fixture that has two 250 watt HQI and one 150 watt HQI and assume
that this would be overkill as it comes out to well over 8 watts/gallon.
<More than needed.> Another fixture I saw had two 150 watt HQI and one 70 watt
HQI. This comes out to almost 5 watts/gallon which I believe is close to a good
target value. Is this correct. Will this second fixture be sufficient for the
more light hungry Acropora that I wish to grow?
<Tim, with your 18" deep tank, I'd feel more comfortable with three 150 HQI's
for the light loving corals you intend on keeping.>
Also, I was wondering if you guys have any preference in fixture brands?
<I think Current USA makes a nice fixture for the money. In bulb brands?
<I like Ushio lamps.> I know that some metal halide bulbs are clearly better
for gardening and was wondering if the same holds true in reefkeeping.
<Some brands such as Ushio have a more accurate color temperature and a little
more intensity. You may want to check this company out. They carry the new
Odyssea light fixtures that I've heard are nicely built and a bargain. There is
an error on this link, they state three 175 HQI but I'm sure they are 150's as I
have never saw 175 HQI's. See here...http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 Do
keep in mind I have had no experience dealing
with Aqua Traders.> Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the help,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Tim
SPS Accident - 5/8/2006
Hey everyone,
I had a little accident with an Acropora in my tank. I broke off four 1 inch
long pieces - fragging by accident I guess. I have always wanted to
propagate my own coral to become more self sufficient in the hobby. I have some
small cylindrical bases for the coral and want to use reef putty to
connect the frags. My question is in regards to the base of the frag being
slightly buried in the putty. I need to get at least a couple of millimetres
into the putty to get the frags to stand. Is this alright or should I try
something else.
Cheers
Marc
<Marc - Yes, it is OK to stick the frag in. If it grows, the base will
eventually cover the putty. With new frags, it is usually best to try to
duplicate the same lighting and flow they had before they broke off for best
results. However, with a brand new frag, you might want to start the frag lower
in the tank and then move it higher over the course of several days. Best of
luck, Roy>
Arothron and SPS - 5/2/2006
Hello All,
<<Hello Craig.>>
I am interesting in purchasing an all black Arothron nigropunctatus to place in
a 200 gallon tank (after a vigorous 4 week quarantine period) with my other
fishes.
<<Sounds nice, and it’s nice to hear QT!>>
All my other fishes are reef safe, and my bioload will not be upset by this
fish.
<<OK<>
Once he has been acclimated to his new diet (four daily mixed pellet feedings of
Thera+A and Vita-Diet from two different auto feeders; 3 times weekly homemade
frozen with Mysis, Cyclop-eeze, Natu-rose, Spirulina, Selcon, vita-chem, Nori,
krill, plankton, squid and clams; live Mysis and copepods from refugium as
well), I would give him at least 6 months to love his new diet.
<<Do be sure not to over feed, and offer plenty of crunchy foods to wear down
his dental plates.>>
Then comes the idea that I have been playing around with--adding two or three
different colored plating species of Montipora capricornis and a nice yellow
specimen of Porites cylindrica (I do have the proper lighting and more than
enough water movement). I would appreciate any comments on chances of success,
or modifications to improve on any chances of success. I do not have to have
these corals, but they are my favorite and it would be great to add them to my
tank with all of my marvelous fishes.
<<Corals and puffers together is always a gamble. Some will chomp them to bits,
others will never touch them. The entire family is quite curious, and will
sample/chomp on many things. My best advice to you is to watch closely, and be
prepared to choose one or the other, should a problem arise. You may have
better luck adding the Arothron after the corals, as to not highlight their
addition/existence. Also note that shrimps, bivalves, clams and such will more
than likely fall prey to the puffer in no time. All that said, ultimately it is
up to the fish how tolerant/intolerant they are, and if you do decide to go this
route, it’s your job to be prepared to remove the puffer or the corals to other
proper accommodations if need be. Good luck my friend!>>
Thank you for your comments. I appreciate your time and knowledge.
-Craig
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Chemical Warfare? 4/6/06
I mentioned in my last email that my SPS started showing signs of
stress. Their tips started dying.
I have a doubt about my anemone, do you think that it can secrete
allelopathic substances that can affect the SPS?
<I believe that it is entirely possible, which is why I discourage mixing
corals and anemones in most systems.>
I looked up the archives but I am not sure if this is right or wrong.
<I think that the theory is right.>
It has been in the tank for 6 months now and once in a while, I lose one or
two of my SPS for the same reason, either dying tips or bleaching , but
mainly the tips begin to die.
<Could certainly be allelopathic competition, or some lapse in environmental
conditions.>
Do you think it is the anemone? The water chemistry is great, calcium is
above 400 and heavy skimming all the time with Euro-reef skimmer, water
changes every 2 weeks !!
I am confused and I need your help. Thank you.
P.S. It is a red, long tentacle anemone.
Regards,
Ramy
Ontario, Canada
<Well, Ramy- in the absence of other possibilities (such as environmental
lapses), the only theory that I have is that the anemone could be an issue,
unless you're looking at some type of disease affecting the coral. My advice
is to "specialize", and keep only the coral or the anemone...Hope this
helps. Regards, Scott F.>
Marine Algae Woes
4/6/06
Hi Bob,
<No his young pal Adam J. with you tonight.>
Hope all is well.
<He was good last time I chatted with him...though busy (aren't we
all).>
I got these red algae, they are all over my reek tank now. They are
like little cotton clusters .I tried manual removal, black snails
but they are out of control now.
Is that something I should be concerned about ???
<Yes.>
I realized that some of my SPS are not doing that great lately.
<Astute observation.>
Please see attached photo. Thank you.
<Ramy before I give you advice please use the search engine in the
main site re: Cyanobacteria and nutrient problems.>
Ramy, Ontario, Canada.
<Good luck, Adam J.>
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SPS problem!!
4/6/06
Hi there,
I have a problem with my SPS, I started the tank almost a year ago.
I have this algae growing now and dominating the tank ( see
attachment )
The growing tips of the SPS die and then the whole piece dies off
afterwards. Any explanation ??
<Not good... could be pathogenic, but much more likely environmental
in its allowance/occurrence>
Do you think this algae is the reason ??? Thank you.
<No... this is secondary, tertiary... Most likely the root problem/s
are environmental.>
Regards,
Ramy
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Scroll down to the Scleractinians tray... read re SPS, Acropora
Systems, Disease... Bob Fenner> |
SPS problem !! 3/29/06
Hi Bob,
<Ramy>
I had my 150 gal running for a year now, housing only SPS and clams.
Everything is fine so far except that one of my favorite Acros started
showing the following :
The growing tips started to break and are covered with algae.
<Yikes!>
I can see the polyps extending but not as much as they used to be. I haven't
moved this piece from its spot for more than 5 months, same lighting
conditions, great water values , nothing else is wrong.
So what could have gone wrong ????
<Very likely "just" the unnatural make-up of aquariums at play here...
Changing the flow (increasing greatly), introducing some smaller fishes,
perhaps switching out some of the live rock... will steer your system back
toward where you want it. Bob Fenner>
Regards,
Ramy, Ontario, Canada.
Please Help! -- Mg damage to corals? Sclera. health - 2/28/2006
Hi Crew,
<Greg>
I hope I am worrying needlessly, but I am concerned I might have an unknown
coral predator or a water parameter problem with my 180g reef. My main concern
is one Acropora with approximately a pea-sized exposed skeleton near the base of
one branch and ½” of skeleton exposed on one tip. A brown mucous-thread-like
substance covered the Acropora, with dead tissue trapped in the bottom of this
mucous net. I siphoned-off the mucous and dead tissue, cut off the dead tip of
one branch, then dispensed a tank water + Lugol’s solution over the remaining
bare skeletal areas. I just fear that this area of necrosis might be
spreading. This Acropora is placed approximately 8 inches from a 7” Crocea clam
(which occasionally produces a similar-looking mucous-like “net” near the byssal
opening). So I am unsure if the Acropora coating was from the Crocea or if it
was produced by the coral.
<Mmmm>
Two days prior to this happening I did move a rock that was attached to this
Acropora and one tip was broken off the Acropora. This has never been an issue
in the past as new flesh would cover the exposed skeleton within a week and new
branches would form. Possibly this initial stress is what led to the current
tissue necrosis. Current water parameters: Temp=77°F, Salinity=1.024, pH=8.1,
alk=3.2 meq/L, Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate~1ppm, Ca=440ppm, PO4={below meas.
Limits}, Silicate=0). I did also increase temperature on my heaters from 76°F
to 77°F a few days ago. I performed a 32g water change at the same time.
A little history…
About two weeks ago, I noticed that all of my Montiporas were becoming much
lighter in color. I was not overly concerned because they have lightened and
darkened in color several times over their 2 years in my tank and they continue
to grow well. Although water parameters have always remained within acceptable
ranges previously,
my salinity dropped from 1.025 to 1.022
<This is a huge difference>
over the course of a day just before the Montiporas changed color a few weeks
ago. A snail had stuck my makeup water float switch in the “on” position for a
day, flooding my 100g refugium and diluting the water with RO/Kalk mixture.
<No fun>
My pH measured 8.2 so I was only concerned about the sudden change in salinity
(makeup water flows at only 10gpd). I removed 10 gallons of tank water and
slowly added 10 gallons of very high salinity water until tank salinity measured
1.023. The following day, I repeated this procedure until the salinity reached
1.024. All fish, corals, clams, other inverts appeared to be unstressed so I
assumed that worst case, this might have induced a temporary color change in the
Montiporas.
<Takes a while to show... weeks, months>
Since my alkalinity and pH have always remained near the low end of acceptable
(pH=8.0-8.1, alk=2.5-3 meq/L) despite using a Kalkwasser reactor for top-off and
the addition of Na2CO3 and NaCO3, I bought a Mg test kit to determine if a low
Mg level was partially responsible for low alkalinity (Ca=440 ppm). Mg measured
1,140 ppm
<Close enough...>
so I mixed 10 teaspoons of Seachem Reef Mg in 1 pint of RO water and dripped
this into the pump intake in my refugium. An hour later I repeated
this. According to Seachem’s label, I would have needed to repeat this process
a few more times to reach the desired 1,300 ppm but I noticed another Acropora
(near the return line) with mucous-like threads waving from its polyps. I was
concerned that I might have changed the Mg level too quickly so I made no
further changes to the tank for the next two days.
<Good>
I did continue to noticed these “mucous threads” waving from the Acropora polyps
at times. This is a different Acropora than the one that is currently
displaying tissue necrosis. Could dosing Mg in this way cause tissue necrosis
in Acropora?
<Possibly a factor, not likely "the">
This particular coral is not in direct flow of the pump return line.
One Montipora has completely bleached (although polyps are visibly extended) but
I did move this coral to a lower light area of the tank when it initially began
to bleach. All other corals (4 Acropora, 1 birdsnest, 1 open brain, 1 pineapple
coral, hammer coral, zoos, star polyps, mushrooms, Alveopora) appear to be doing
well. Even the Acropora that had previously produced the mucous-like threads
now appears normal. All inverts appear unstressed as well.
What should I do about the Acropora with the tissue necrosis – is there a way to
reverse this spread?
<You likely have>
If the necrotic area continues to grow, I assume I should frag the coral to save
the remainder – correct?
<An approach. I would move this colony to another system, or even shallow,
brightly lit sump first myself>
Do you think this in contagious (e.g. should I be doing anything to protect the
other corals in my tank)? Unfortunately I do not have a picture to send yet,
but I can follow-up when I return home tonight if needed.
Thank you in advance for your help!!!
--Greg
<I doubt you have a pathogen at play here. Very likely the bit of trouble you've
observed is/was due to the change n spg... I would not over-react here. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Please Help! -- Mg damage to corals? - 3/1/2006
Bob,
<Greg>
Thank you so much for your input (or at least putting my mind at ease) -- and
for taking the time to read my email. I will continue to watch this
Acropora, but no additional skeletal areas appear to be exposed tonight.
<Good>
I refer all of my fellow reefers to the WWM search for answers to their
questions. You and the WWM crew offer an invaluable service to aquarists!
--Greg
<We're very glad to share. Bob Fenner>
Give Those Acros Some Breathing Room! (Coral Placement) 2/2/06
Hi!
<Hiya! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
I just had a quick question regarding SPS coral placement. How far should most
Acropora be placed from
each other? I do prune them and make sure they do not touch each other. Is a
distance of 3-4 inches enough?
Thank you so much!
Sheen
<Well, Sheen- everyone has an opinion on this one, but I would allow almost 6"
plus between specimens. I've done it closer, and trust me- given time and the
proper conditions, they'll still eventually grow into each other! Try at least
6", be patient, and you'll be rewarded with larger, healthier, and more colorful
corals...Assuming, of course, that you can provide for their other environmental
needs! Best of luck to you! Regards, Scott F.>
SPS lighting 1/30/06
Crew- <Craig>
Quick question:
I am planning on putting some SPS about halfway up the rockwork in a 300
gallon tank (31" high). I am also planning on trying different lighting
schemes throughout the tank. I would like to leave some recessed lighting on
the ends so that private entreats exist for more reclusive fish to feel
comfortable. Since I do not want the whole thing lit up like the midday
sun, I am only planning on putting 400 watts of 20K metal halide on the middle
third of the tank (a length of about 32"). If the SPS are put directly below
the fixture 1-2ft deep, would this amount of light likely suffice? Let me know
if this is ill-advised. <Sound be a pleasing effect, no worries my friend,
sounds good.>
Thanks as always, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Craig
SPS TURNING YELLOW 01-01-06
Hello I just bought 2 SPS coral for my 55 gallon reef with 260 watts power
compact ( about 5 watts per gallon) a canister filter, protein skimmer,2 power
heads, and a heater, about 30 lbs live rock, 40 lbs live sand. Now for the fish
I have a yellow tang, maroon clown, mandarin goby, and bullet goby. My corals
are a finger leather, yellow polyps, 2 mushroom rocks, Ricordea, open brain,
cabbage coral bubble coral , 2 SPS on the same rock, and star polyps. My
inverts are a sponge, emerald crab, camel shrimp, coral banded shrimp, t. gigas
clam, bubble tip anemone,6 astray snails, and a large turbo snail. Also I have
a
medians hair algae, Chaeto ,needle algae. My water tested perfect.
<Sounds like a very full tank.>
My new SPS coral
that was a green brown color is now turning yellow. The other day I had to
catch
a clown fish and I took down the rock work to catch him. Is this because
stress did I kill it or is it new symbolic algae because lighting please help
I
love this coral thanks for the help. Sorry this letter was so long. Please
excuse the mis-spelled words I'm 11 years old thanks for the help love your web
site.
<First, let me thank you for the compliment. As for your question, you may have
three situations going on. The fist situation could be chemical warfare in your
tank. To remedy this you will need to add carbon to your tank. The carbon will
also clear organics from your water making the lights more useful for your
coral. The second possibility is that you may be witnessing bleaching. If your
coral is bleaching you will need to upgrade your lighting to keep that coral or
remove the coral to a friend's tank until you can afford to upgrade your
lighting. The final situation you may be witnessing is; the corals may be
adjusting to your lights and will actually color up to a more natural color.
This situation is usually found more in tanks with very high watt lighting and
pristine water conditions. Travis>
New SPS Frags... Long Shipping... What To Expect? - 12/31/05
Hi all...
<<Hello>>
as has been stated by many, you have an awesome site, no fluff, all info.
<<Thank you>>
I have read much, but not all of the site, haven't been able to find an answer.
<<ok>>
I just acquired some Acro frags 1 yongei and 2 tortuosa (sp.?).
<<Correct>>
Thanks to shipping problems they were in transit about 40hrs.
<<Uh oh!>>
They arrived white, little or no apparent color, no polyps yet.
<<Expelled their zooxanthellae...or worse...have complete tissue loss.>>
My fears about ammonia in bags and alkalinity of tank water led me to introduce
them to the QT tank after temp adjustment.
<<Smart>>
I'm acclimating lighting using vinyl screen layers.
<<Smart again>>
On intro to QT tank frags had filaments of slime but no other indications of
life.
<<Not unexpected...>>
Don't expect a miracle here but what if anything should I expect from these
frags if water parameters, lighting and flow are optimal, which I think they
are. At what point should I give up on them in your opinion.
<<Mmm...both species of coral have quite visible polyps, if you don't see any
evidence of these after 48 hrs. I think you can assume the worst. You might
also try viewing the frags under some magnification (jeweler's loop/magnifying
glass) to see if you can determine if there is any flesh on the skeleton.>>
This is my first of many cracks at SPS so would like to not overreact.
<<You're not overreacting...40 hours in transit/bleached condition is cause for
concern.>>
Steve
<<Regards, EricR>>
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