Wet Dry Filter Question   1/14/08
Hello,
<Hello Kurt.>
wanted to ask you guys/girls your expert opinions on this particular filtration set up I just purchased for my 125g salt water tank I’m setting up. The filter system is a 'Rapids Pro PS3' ,rated at 700 gph. I purchased two of these units to use, as opposed to just 1, = 1400gph with 2 overflow boxes
<I would plan on less than half this flow in real world applications with this size drain line.>
and 2 protein simmers( want good filtration for my marine friends). I also upgraded 1 of the units to include the optional "auto fill system" , to replace water evaporation from the tank automatically up to 4 gallons worth .Got a pretty good deal ( I hope) , and was wondering if you have heard any feedback on these units.
<A little, these do require a good bit of maintenance. You will need to frequently clean the mechanical filtration in the unit to prevent detritus buildup, as well as clean/replace the airstones in the skimmers for the best performance.>
The link is here from Doctors Foster and Smith, where I ordered it on sale. Also ,will concrete construction blocks be strong enough to use as stand supports on each end of the tank, with added doubled up 2x4 (vertically) in the center, or is this just too much pressure for these blocks to support (will probably be about 1,400-1,500 pounds)?
<The blocks can take the weight, I have had stands like this myself. These can however be somewhat unstable just stacking on one another. I would construct a wood frame to support your tank, really shouldn’t cost anymore than the blocks. Either way you will need to have the entire frame of the tank supported with the wood, not down the middle (if I understand you correctly). For a six foot tank without any center support I would opt for 2X6’ vertically for the frame.>
The stand at the store was over $400,and I'm trying to get my set up going on a reasonable budget, so the $400 stand is a no no right now. Tank dimensions are 72 x 22 x 18.. Thanks for your help, and here's the link to the filter set up I have coming, hope I didn't order junk ?
<In all honesty it would not be my first choice, but it will work. Just be diligent in maintaining these units.>
Appreciate your opinions/advice. Kurt Schultz
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=16747
<Very welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Initial setup of Pro Clear 300 wet/dry system 10/14/07
I do not have an extensive vocabulary for the type of system I inherited.? So my apologies in advance, if I have spoken as a layman.??
<No worries>
I acquired a very large fish tank, was told its 200 gallons, freshwater etc.?? its roughly 6 foot long by 3 foot high , by 2 foot wide...give or take some inches.? The stand is in beautiful shape as well.?
The Filter system under the tank was running (though the tank was half full of water, and? the filter was basically sucking air) ?when I arrived to the original owners home to help disassemble and move.? On a side note, the two back pockets of the tank, that hold tubing, and as well seems to be separately sealed to hold water on their own, against the back of the tank.
<Okay>
Looking at the plumbing and stuff, It seemed easy enough to take apart and reassemble in my home.? I now have everything set up, I filled the tank with water, put some water in the filter system (300 Pro Clear wet/dry filterless I think the label said)?.? Plugged in the pump, water being sucked from the filter cavity into the tank via the two back pockets and into the main tank.? Now these pockets also hold water, not sure how much I should have in there of course, up to the water level of the tank??
<Yes... there needs to be enough water in the tank to overflow the weirs (the "pockets") and water in the sump/filter underneath>
In any case I am not getting the water to be sucked from the tank into the filter system, for continuous processing, meaning once the pump has sucked all the water into the tank, the filer box is now empty in moments, and no water is returning into the filter box.? There are valves on return tubes into the filter box, I have them both open, still nothing.?
<Need to add more water...>
Once I turn off power, I get return flow opposite now through the pump, and its rushed back into the filter box.?
<Oh!>
I have currently unplugged the pump and have attempted a few more tries at getting complete circulation within the tank/filter box...with no luck...Am I missing something here??
<Likely the plumbing is not connected properly... the discharge/s need to either have check valves in them to prevent back-siphoning, or they are not connected to the actual discharge/s currently>
Does the filter box / tank/ the two back holding wells have to be full of water for this process to start correctly??
<Not the holding wells, but the filter sump and tank, yes>
Do I need to have one of the return into the filter box valves open and one closed maybe when starting this process?? ?I again apologize for these layman types of questions/references.?
<The valves should not matter here...>
Any advice would be much appreciated.??
~Joseph
<I strongly encourage you to call/contact a local fish store, see if they have someone, or if there is a "fish club" nearby that has a member that will come over and help you where the tank is set-up. Otherwise, you can send some pix and we can try to work this out via the Net. Bob Fenner>

Re: Initial setup of Pro Clear 300 wet/dry system 10/14/07
****I have currently unplugged the pump and have attempted a few more tries at getting complete circulation within the tank/filter box...with no luck...Am I missing something here??****
<Likely the plumbing is not connected properly... the discharge/s need to either have check valves in them to prevent back-siphoning, or they are not connected to the actual discharge/s currently>
----It became obvious to me that the filter hose (could use a check valve, though, one was never installed in the first place) from the pump, which runs into a tee and branches into the two separate weirs (to shoot water into the tank) Once I spliced in a valve, I could now control the flow to and from the tank to keep everything running smoothly.
<Good>
****Now these pockets also hold water, not sure how much I should have in there of course, up to the water level of the tank??****
<Yes... there needs to be enough water in the tank to overflow the weirs (the "pockets") and water in the sump/filter underneath>
----And yes the tank overflow now runs into the 'weirs' too... :)
<Very good>
Thanks again for your time!
~Joseph
<Welcome Joseph! BobF>
Wet Dry Filter Set Up   2/24/07
Good afternoon...
I have a 72 Bow front tank with corner overflow, The Wet Dry dimensions are (24" L X 9"3/4  W X 17" H) with a Rio1700 pump,  I have a Berlin 90 in sump protein skimmer, I have also attached a Fluval 304 canister filter to the tank, and dropped a small Fluval 4 into the sump tank as well for a little water surface movement. I converted a small semi reef tank 35 gallons ( up & running for about 2 years ). I took its entire contents, about 40lbs live rock, 35 lbs live sand and the tanks water, into the 72 bow front, added the difference in water volume, then added another 35lbs of live rock and another 20lbs of live sand.
<Good>
I have read so many articles on bio balls and nitrates... my mind is numb!
<How'd you like to write them?>
My questions are: should I leave it there till the tank matures a bit?
<Not a bad idea... and if I owned them already, I would>
It is currently only a month old as it stands. What other wet dry media can I use????
Ceramic pieces? add another 20-30 lbs of live rock in my sump to replace the bio balls? or should I use both types of media?
<Either, could... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaq2.htm
and possibly the next linked FAQs file in order>
I figure, and please correct me if I am wrong, that I see it as one big water change... since I basically took my 35 gallon semi reef and planted its entire contents in my slightly larger tank.
<Mmm, okay>
Oh... by the way, I did of course transfer the inhabitants of the smaller tank and added a Yellow Tang and a Mandarin. So, the residents of the bow front tank are:
Yellow Tang
Mandarin
Fire Shrimp
Cleaner Shrimp
Coral Banded Shrimp
<Do keep your eye on this Stenopid>
2 Black Percula Clowns ( 1.5" each in length )
1 Atlantic Bubble Anemone
2 Mexican Snails
Small Blue Damsel
Small Sargent Major Damsel
Stripped Damsel
Sally Lightfoot Crab
Small Green Crab
Thank you for your time and hopeful assistance
Regards!
Marcello
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

New 220 Gal. And Filtration Options - 01/13/2006
Hello to all my fish friends. I love your site.
<Hi there Lora, glad you've enjoyed it!>
Ok I just got a 220 gallon tank from my husband yesterday, that I have been wanting for a long time.
<Sweet!>
Anyway, I'm not sure what type of filtration system I should put in it. I have a 55 gal. with power filters on it, but I'm not sure if I can use them on such a large tank of this size.
<Depends on how many gal. they are rated for.>
My fear of using a wet/dry or a sump is that in a power outage which happens occasionally during bad weather is that I will come home to a flooded living room, by the power going out or a mechanical problems from the pumps.
<Many safety precautions can be taken when setting these up to avoid this. Is this tank drilled already? If so, I would definitely go the sump/wet-dry route.>
I'm someone who would worry all day while I'm not home that my tank has let all the water out. Can you help me with this problem.
<You would really need to consult our FAQ's on this. Too much info to cover in e-mail. The two things that will give you trouble are overfilling your system, and a syphon being created by your returns. Both are easily avoided. Allow your tank to fill the sump to a desired level with the return pump off. Start the pump (the water level will drop) and mark the new level. This is your max fill line when performing changes and top-offs. Returns should be allowed to take in air when ever the tank stops running (as main tank level starts to drain). This breaks the syphon so they don't continue to empty your tank. Many little "tricks" you can use.>
I just need clarification on what would be the best for my tank and the safest for my house.
<With a little research and careful planning, you would be perfectly fine using an under the tank filter.>
The local pet store is telling my husband that I need a wet/dry system with a sump. But you know how most of them are only want to line their pockets.
<Too often the case.>
I respect your advise and will be waiting on a reply before I buy anything else for this system.
<The versatility and convenience of the sump/wet-dry would be my choice. All the info seems confusing at first, but keep reading and re-reading. When you get that "eureka" moment, all the rest will fall into place.>
Have a great day
Lora Frakes
Coordination of Benefits
<Hope this helps put you on the right path. - Josh>

- Setting Up a Wet/Dry -
Hi,
I hope that you can help. I just purchased a new aquarium with the holes drilled in the bottom and it came with an Aqua Clear Aquatics Wet Dry pro 200 filter. The directions are horrible. I have no clue how to set it up. Can you point me somewhere to help with the setup headache? <Hmm... trouble. Aquanetics is no longer in business...  and they're probably the folks who wrote those instructions. Other than how the filter unit itself if assembled, the plumbing should be fairly simple - the overflow in the tank should have a bulkhead fitting, and to this you will attach PVC pipe of appropriate size and plumb this from the tank to the input side of the wet/dry. From the wet/dry you'll need to, with the aid of a pump get the water back up to the tank. Again, some PVC plumbing work and you should be done. Hard to say more specifically as I'm not familiar with this unit. Do inquire at the store where you bought this stuff... they should be able to provide some help.>
Thanks!  Van
<Cheers, J -- >

- Setting Up a Wet/Dry, Follow-up -
Hi J
<Hi.>
Thanks for your reply! <My pleasure.> I really appreciate it. <I'm glad I can help.> The store wasn't much help, but I got it figured out. The skimmer is what I was having trouble with setting up... it's built into the filter. I do have another question that you might be able to answer... I rinsed everything really well before putting it in the tank and I got some cloudiness, which I somewhat expected. I added the salt on Tuesday night and it's still a little cloudy. I did I do something wrong? <Hard to say.> I thought that the filter would have cleared it up by now. Is there something I can do to correct the problem? <Perhaps this is either air coming into the system somehow or dust from your gravel/sand if that's been put in the tank already. Give it some time - it should clear up.>
Thanks for all your help!  Van
<Cheers, J -- >

- Tide Pool Filter -
Hi' my name is Ryan I just bought a tide pool bio-wheel used and I need instructions on hooking it up right. Can't seem to get a suction on the back hanger, without having air bubble in the tube running to both things. <I'm not sure I follow exactly... "the tube running to both things" - what does that mean? It seems to me that you might not have the correct means for getting water out of your tank and into this filter. You should be using an overflow box if you aren't already - trying to run with filter with a direct siphon will be a source of great trouble.> Please help if able to do so.              Thanks Ryan
<Cheers, J -- >

Changing to a wet/dry filter
I am switching from a hang on filter with a bio wheel to a wet/dry filter. How long should I leave the old filter in place until the new filter develops the bacteria needed to sustain the tank? 
<Chris, just put the bio-wheel itself in your sump for a couple weeks. James (Salty Dog)><<I'd overlap the filters for a few weeks. RMF>>

WET/DRY
Hello everyone!
<Ughh...noon is too early to be awake>
I want to make this simple but enough info that you can help my particular inquiry. I have a 90 gallon...with 100lbs. Of live rock. Crushed coral substrate. 10 fish- royal Gramma, 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 flame hawk, sailfin blenny, ruby-headed fairy wrasse, coral beauty, Red Sea purple tang, hippo tang, mandarin. All doing very well. Beginning to stock with very easy, hardy corals. That's all I have a desire to keep. Starburst polyps doing great.
<I'm assuming Tubastrea spp.? They need daily feeding if so>
Also have 10 gallon refugium. Indo-Pacific Sea Farms has been a great help in stocking this with algae and critters. It has a deep sand bed. First very fine then fine. About 4 inches. Algae are Halimeda, Ulva, Gracilaria, Red kelp. My equipment consists of a Turboflotor skimmer, UV, and a Tidepool wet dry. Which leads me to my question... 
I bought Mr. Fenner¹s book (The Conscientious Marine Aquarist) and was reading about filters. I am wondering about the feasibility of SLOWLY taking out the bio balls and bio-wheel to avoid future build up of nitrates. (I think this is why Mr. Fenner does not think too highly of wet dry filtration for reefs).
<You're correct. The wet\dry in an aquarium likes yours is redundant, and can contribute to high nitrates in the future, though with your DSB it may not be a problem. If you plan on adding corals and no more fish, I would remove it, but if you are going to have a heavily stocked mostly-FO tank, you may consider leaving it>
I would leave the pre-filter trays in place of course and still use the sump, etc. My pump does 500 gallons per hour and I have two rotating powerheads each doing another 270 gallons per hour. My nitrate is zero....yes the tank is young....6 months.
<I would seriously up the water flow in your aquarium...possibly build a manifold\closed loop...Anthony has written tons of good info about manifolds on his forum @ Reef Central>
I cycled my tank with live rock and initially that nitrate just hung out at 30. But after much patience it dropped after a couple of months to zero. I do regular cleanings once a week of the substrate and 10% water change and clean most all pre-filters. I am purchasing from IPSF the Surfzone Live Sand Activator Plus. Would adding this each time I took out say, four cell-pore media balls compensate enough that may tank would not go through a mini-cycle? I certainly don¹t want to crash the aquarium, but do want to try to get rid of these if possible. Surely not all my bacteria are in that cell pore material and bio-wheel, right?
<With 100lbs of live rock, you should be able to remove 1\4th of your media per week. You're right, not all, and probably not even most, of the nitrifying bacteria\organisms are living in your wet dry - most are going to inhabit your live rock\sand. Monitor your water quality after the removal, but I am betting you won't see any adverse effects>
Oh, and when I get that sand from IPSF, how long should I shut off that UV while I wait for the good bacteria to find a home?
<I wouldn't run a UV sterilizer in a reef tank at all - but they're fine in FOWLR>
Thank you for your time put into this question. 
<You're welcome>
Sincerely,
Renee'
<M. Maddox>