Wet-dry to sump change 11/3/05
Hi WWM Crew. I have been looking through your site regarding the use of bioballs, and I have subsequently decided to get rid of mine due to super high nitrate levels that are not being controlled by water changes, but I have a few questions. I have a 110 gallon tall tank that is drilled with an overflow and wet-dry. There are 100 lbs of live sand in the tank as well as what has to be close to 100 or more lbs of live rock (but I am not completely sure, as I have accumulated it over the years). The live sand was put in approximately 1 month ago when I switched from a 75 gallon tank to the 110 (I think it is between 3-4 inches in depth, as it is a 110 tall).
The wet-dry contains bio-balls in the left compartment (intake from the tank), and the right compartment contains a CRAPPY JEBO skimmer that came with the tank as well as the return pump to the tank. I am getting a new, better skimmer--either an Aqua C EV 120 or a Euro-Reef CS6-2. I was told that the Euro-Reef is a better, easier to work with skimmer, but this will not fit in the right compartment of the sump with the return pump; the Aqua C would fit in this space (but is supposedly not as good of a skimmer and harder to adjust).
My question is this: Should I remove the bio-balls from the left sump compartment and replace them with the Euro-Reef skimmer, and then either add some live rock to this compartment or the right compartment with the return pump (or add no more live-rock, as there would likely not be a light on this)? or put the Aqua C skimmer in the right compartment with the return pump and replace the bio-balls with live rock in the left compartment (again, there would probably not be any light on the rock).
<Either will work. Am partial to using whichever compartment is easier to maintain a more or less constant water level in>
If it is a better idea to get the better skimmer and put it in the left compartment where the bio-balls currently are, will there be a problem if I add some live rock to this compartment around the skimmer?
<Likely not>
or would it be a problem to add the live rock to the compartment with the return pump (not sure if there will be a lot of crud from the live rock that would get sucked into the pump and returned into the tank, as it is an open compartment with no other barriers?)
Of note, the tank currently holds a snowflake eel (he's medium size and has grown VERY slowly over the past 7 years--gets fed once per week), ~4 in yellow tang, ~3 in blue tang, ~4-5 in maroon clown, ~3 in flame angel, a bubble tip anemone and some snails. I also plan to add 1-2 short spine urchins, a bunch of small hermits and
Nassarius snails for clean-up, and maybe 1-2 cleaner shrimp (from what I have read on your site and seen from my eel, I don't think he will eat these).
<Likely will in time>
Some of the snails have been dying, presumably from the high nitrates, and I don't want to lose the anemone, which is currently looking great. Given that you have much more experience than I do, please let me know what you would likely do. Thank you so much for your time and the great website.
~Jocelyn Blake
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Eheim Wet Dry and broken tank 10/3/05
Hello, <Hello Scott>
Many on WetWeb do not like Eheim Wet/Dry's. Why? If you are one of the couple
who like them; then would you still be willing to list the reasons that others
do not like them please? <Eheim has a reputation for producing excellent long
lasting products. The only reason I can see that discourages people from buying
them is the cost. You can get into a sump/overflow with pump much cheaper than
the cost of an Eheim Wet/Dry.> <<RMF doesn't like these units because they
work poorly, don't have much "carrying capacity" and are a pain to work on>>
Secondly - the center brace broke on my 55. I want to tell you how I repaired
it. WetWeb does not note my repair solution, and since this was my first time
fixing one, I hoped you might tell me what you think please:
-- The tank is about a year old. It broke due to my own error attempting a
modification. I slipped and broke the brace. So the plastic brace is not
old, fragile and brittle. The break occurred at the rear of the brace - a
centimeter or so from the rear wall of the tank. Instead of using glass and
silicone to create a new brace as WetWeb recommends, I used a heavy metal
L-bracket with a 1 inch bend on one end. I clamped the tank back together to
hold it while I worked. I placed the metal bracket on the top-side of the brace.
I scuffed up all areas with sandpaper for better adhesion. I chose "Gorilla
Glue" for bonding (it's waterproof - not animal safe I imagine; but this is an
outside repair and none got into the aquarium). I then placed the metal
L-bracket over the damaged area with the "L" portion of the bracket hanging down
the back. I used 3 screws to hold is down (It came with screw holes) along with
the glue. The screws acted like a clamp while it dried. After drying I pulled
hard on the tank and it wouldn't budge. I later decided to keep the screws in
permanently, so I coated the small bit protruding from underside of the (now
repaired) plastic brace with aquarium silicone. No problems with it as of yet.
When the brace is broken, I noticed that even with a full tank it is very easy
to push the center back together. The pressure is not as great as I would have
thought; so I'm satisfied with this. The
"Gorilla Glue" brand is supposed to be one of the strongest on the market.
What do you think? <Sounds OK, I guess time will tell. This question should be
directed to the tank manufacturer for their input. In the future don't send a
query with two separate subjects. Most of these queries are placed in the FAQ's
by subject and need to be sent that way. James (Salty Dog)> <<...
a poor idea/fix... this brace needs refitting with Silicone. RMF>>
Thanks for any assist;
Scott
Oxygen In The Wet Dry - 09/30/05
Thanking you all so much for all your answers to my son's questions... (
he's been e-mailing you under my name - he's actually only 13 and just starting
his aquarium!)
<<Ah!...a pleasure...>>
In reference to the towel over the wet/dry filtration system... we of course
would be blocking a lot of space where air would normally be available to this
area but would not block all air and a towel is also quite "breathable" - the
idea is to lesson the noise not block O2 from getting in and around the system.
<<agreed>>
I've also thought recently of putting up some foam pieces behind the filtration
area in the back of the "cabinet" which the tank sits upon so the noise does NOT
filter up along the back of it all against the wall... does this sound feasible?
<<Quite...you might also consider putting some type of damping material "under'
the filter.>>
Yours in under water dreams,
Clare B.
<<Take care my friend... EricR>>
Noisy Wet/Dry - 09/29/05
Hey crew,
<<Hey Clare!>>
I have a 75 gallon SW tank, and it is an older model, and makes a whole lot of
noise <<?>>. I have a wet dry filter<<Ah, yes...can be very noisy.>> (125
capacity) and we decided to put a towel over the wet dry filter, this really
helped with the noise. I was just wondering if this was OK to cover the filter
or if you see any problems with it?
<<Mmm, interesting question... But as long as you're not blocking air/oxygen
from entering the filter (else, I'm sure you are already aware, you defeat the
purpose of the wet/dry), using the towel to dampen noise shouldn’t be a
problem.>>
Thanks,
Clare
<<Welcome, EricR>>
Moving Wet/Dry Filter 9/2/05
Hi,
<Kia ora, Good health!>
I will be moving my fish only tank to a new location in Nov. It has a wet/dry filter with a protein skimmer. The tank will be down for approx. 4
hours. I
know the beneficial bacteria in the filter has a short lifespan (I believe
they start dying within 2 hours of stopping the water circulation)
<Mmm, slow down... but if they're kept moist, some air exposure... no problems>
and would
like to know the best way to try and preserve the bio balls during the move to
help prevent any problems with the tank recycling at the new location.
<Cover the filter itself with a moist towel... freshwater or marine... drain the
water out of the filter itself...>
I've moved the aquarium before when I only had a Fluval filter and didn't
have any problems with recycling, maybe because it is a closed filter. I just
would like your advise to be on the safe side.
Hopefully this move will be just as easy.
Thanks,
Rich Aylward
<I hope so too. Bob Fenner>
How would you guys rate the MegaFlow
sump filters? 9/1/05
Hey guys,
How would you guys rate the MegaFlow sump filters?
<Here:
http://www.all-glass.com/services/pr_megaflow_sump_filters.shtml>
I am considering equipping my Oceanic 55 gallon pre-drilled with overflow
fish-only marine tank with this filtration device.
Thanks,
Gary
<They're a bit better than the usual non-engineered U.S. made wet-dry (I do like
the minimum/maximum water line sticker), but still inferior to what one can make
themself... functionally... depending on choice of livestock, maintenance...
There are discussions of other filter moda on WWM if you'd care to peruse them.
Bob Fenner>
Wet-Dry filters, WWM inconsistencies? 9/1/05
Hi Bob,
<Gary>
First let me thank you and your crew for providing such an incredibly invaluable
resource of knowledge and experience that I am able to draw upon as a novice
aquarist. I was hoping you could please clarify an apparent contradiction of
your assessment of wet/dry filtration. In your FAQ section regarding this
subject, you state that you are not a big fan of the wet/dry filter. However,
in an article that you wrote on wet/dry filters you had the following to say:
Wet-Dry/Trickle Filters:
"Are strongly suggested for all serious marine aquarists with medium to larger
systems; and definitely for all wanting to try their hand at keeping corals,
live-rock and other reef invertebrates.
A giant step in biologically improved water quality was taken with the
introduction of wet-dry (aka reef, trickle) filters. Fishes and invertebrates
live longer, healthier lives and maintenance is greatly reduced with their use.
"Properly constructed and operated wet-dry filters perform several important
functions (the same one's as all other biological filters) better than all other
filter modes.
<Mmm, where did you see this? There are other author's content posted on WWM>
Could you please clarify this apparent contradiction and advise as to what
filtration device and method you would recommend for a 55 gallon fish only
marine tank?
<For a FO tank of this size, shape, likely outside power filtration (hang-on), a
skimmer, and some live rock>
What other equipment should I use in conjunction with this setup. Thanks!
Gary
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishonsetup.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Wet Dry Filter Modification - 08/17/05
Dear Sirs,
<<No need to be so formal (and, a few "Madams" here as well)... EricR at your
service.>>
First time using and visiting your web site but it seems very informative.
<<Seems so to me too <G>.>>
I have a Life Reef LF2-300 Wet Dry Filtration System (Twin Towers), with Calcium
Reactor/C02 Monitored and Controlled, Protein Skimmer, 57 Watt UV Sterilizer and
External Canister Filter (For Carbon), used on a 180 Gallon Tank with Metal
Halide and fluorescent lighting. The tank currently has a 2" layer of coral
sand <<Mmm...would consider reducing this to less than 1", or increasing to more
than 4".>>, some...very little live rock and a dozen various small fish.
<<No idea what "various" might be...>>
I have come to the conclusion (visible brown algae) that I would like to modify
my Wet/Dry Filter due to nitrate concerns. I was wondering if it would be an
improvement to add LS about 4 inches to the bottom of the sump area and slowly
remove about half the bio balls in each tower over a few weeks?
<<Maybe, but you haven't given me much info to go on (actual fish load, nitrate
levels). Wet/Dry filters usually work very well for FO/FOWLR systems (rapid
response <higher oxygen levels> to increasing bio-load/over-feeding) where a
higher residual nitrate level is tolerated (around 20ppm).>>
The filter is 41 inches long and 13 inches wide. The sump area
below the towers looks like it would support about 3 to 4 inches of sand. I was
thinking that doing this might give me the best of both worlds, the ammonia to
nitrate efficiency of the wet dry, but tone it down a little with half the bio
balls, and also give me the de-nitrification benefits of the living sand to off
set the efficiency of the Wet/Dry.
<<Okay, think about that last sentence...all a bit self-defeating, don't you
think?>>
Could a set up using a moderate amount of bio balls in a wet dry with a 2" Coral
Sand substrate and ample living rock in the tank with a bed of LS in the sump of
the Wet/Dry work?
<<Mmm, if your nitrates are truly high in this system (30+ppm)...firstly, look
at your feeding habits, water flow, etc....if these are in alignment, I would
suggest adding the 4" sugar-fine sand substrate to the sump and removing ALL the
bio-balls (one tower one week, the second tower the next).>>
I know that I also need to improve my circulation, and increase my
water changes while watching the feeding amount.
<<Ah good...you already know then...>>
And I plan to increase the living rock content to an appropriate amount.
<<Be sure to maintain good water circulation "all around" the rock.>>
But I want to also fix my filter that I know believe has/will become a nitrate
factory.
<<Do consider my suggestions/food for thought...then "modify away" if you deem
necessary.>>
Your insight would be appreciated.
Regards,
James
High nitrates with a wet-dry? Of course! - 8/13/05
Hi there,
<Howdy, Ali here>
I have enjoyed your website and reading through all the advice. I've told
everybody even the LFS. But despite all the reading I wanted to see if you can
help me with my situation.
<Sure>
I have: 29gal. mini reef 30"x12"x18", approx. 52 lbs. Live rock, 30lbs. live
sand, Coralife PC one 65watt 10,000K daylight and one 65watt actinic, ProClear
Aquatic System 125 wet/dry with 266 Bioballs in Biotower, CA 2200 return pump
at 685gph, Aqualine motorized protein skimmer in sump. Two Lifetech powerheads
295gph each on timer one for 6hrs in one direction then the other in
opposite direction for 6hrs and so on.
<I'd keep your powerheads on simultaneously and take them off of the wavemaker
device.>
Adding Kent marine's Essential Elements, Tech-I, and Purple-up according to
directions on each bottle.
<All are unnecessary. A good two-part calcium/alk. supplement would be all you
truely need. B-ionic or C-Balance, do a search on these.>
temp. avg 78, LFS tested water parameters and all was where it should be
except for NITRATES >200ppm said one LFS. So I was told to do a water change
and I did a 30% water change. Next day LFS tested water and this time Nitrates
where at about 40ppm. Did another 30% water change and I tested my water for
nitrates and still high>40ppm. I was also told to siphon the sand which I
did before the water change. LFS said that it could be the Bioball sand advised
to take some out but you guys have said to remove them all out slowly and
replace with LR.
<Unfortunately my friend, you have been receiving bad advice from your LFS. This
is not uncommon so please don't feel singled out.>
Livestock: 1 Pair of (not mated) Gold Stripe maroon clownfish one is 1.5" the
other approx 3",
<Not a good choice for this size tank. A healthy pair of clownfish do make for a
really pretty, calming yet humorous display. Unfortunately, the maroons not only
get big - but very aggressive. Look into a pair of A. percula, A. ocellaris or
some neat skunks.>
1 diamond watch goby, 2 Brown colored BTA purchased together because both were
and still are occupying the same rock so I bought the rock and the Anemones.
Clowns have gone into anemone and enjoy it. 1 blood shrimp. I have read the
articles and seen the FAQs but concerned for my tank crashing with the high
nitrates.
<Unless you enjoy doing daily water changes, remove the wet-dry system ASAP.
Look into doing a tank renovation, with a 3" fine grade aragonite sandbed layer
(CaribSea Aragamax Select works perfect for this, and given your tank dimensions
1 x 30 pound bag should get the job done.) Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/reef2.htm >
I have read about turning the wet/dry to a sump Refu. but not sure how to do it
with the DSB and the pump in there as well as where to place the live rocks with
this kind of "generic" or "standard" wet/dry? And how do I position the light
for the LR and the DSB in the wet/dry because at the top of the Bio tower is
where the water from the tank comes in?
<With a little creativity, you can make all this work Felix. If that is not
possible, consider removing the entire wet-dry filter unit and purchasing a
standard Berlin style sump or utilizing an empty aquarium.>
If I make a DSB in the sump would I still need to siphon that sand as well?
<No need to do this Felix>
Also the bottom of the wet/dry has white spots or fuzz along the walls.
<These are harmless critters. Don't worry about them. :) >
Sorry about the length but I wanted to make sure I gave as much information as
possible. Please let me know what my next course of action should be. If
left any missing info please let me know so I may provide it for you.
Thank you so much for your time and keep up the good work
thank you
Felix
<Good luck and make sure you read the provided links Felix, all of the set-up,
filtration, sandbed, answers you are looking for are thoroughly explained. -
Ali>
In Search of Wet/Dry Filters 8/11/05
Do you know an efficient wet/dry filter series for a 90 Gallon (with built in
overflow box) tank to be set-up this month? I've been looking for a good wet/dry
filter that comes with the pre-filter, bio-media, pump, etc. I would appreciate
the help, thanks.
<Well, there are a number of excellent manufacturers of wet/dry filters and
sumps. Some of the brands that I have seen and been impressed with are CPR and
Amiracle. There are many other fine manufacturers of acrylic sumps out there. My
best suggestion would be to check some of the larger e-tailers and see what they
can offer. HTH! Regards, Scott F.>
Conversion of Wet/dry Trickle Filter into a Refugium and Sump
Gentlemen Greetings again - and Thank You. Its amazing how much progress I have made reading the FAQs/articles and
following your advice (My fiancée thinks I am genius).
<Perhaps you are>
As I mentioned previously, I am setting up a 60 gallon FOWLR with 75lbs of Live Rock and 60lbs of Live Sand. I will be using a EuroReef CS1 skimmer,
a Rena Filstar XP2 canister filter (chemical & mechanical) and a sump/refugium with a DSB. I will not have a DSB in my main tank because
I believe with only 60 gallons I will be to taking too much space from the fish and live rock (Don't laugh!). I will be using about 1-2 inches of Live
Sand in the main (an article in FAMA stated that most denitrification occurs in the
first couple of inches - my goal here is aesthetic) Water will come into the refugium/sump from the main tank using an overflow box and a drip plate
in the wet dry. My goal of having the refugium with a DSB is mainly nitrate reduction.
I would like to convert my wet dry to a refugium (for algae) using a DSB and a sump (to place my Euro Reef and heater). I will be using a
AMiracle Maxi-Reef 200 trickle down filter witch has a 12X12 sump area. I would like
my DSB to be where the bio balls were originally and I would like to place some Live
Rock there. My DSB and main tank sand will be CaribSea Fiji Pink Aragalive and m y
return pump will be external and attached to my sump.
My concerns are the following
1) Since the Wet Dry has a wall between the biological area and the sump (and a small opening) I would be restricting the flow of water to my skimmer and
return pump . Do I have reason for concern - any ideas?
<This wall can be modified... cut, drilled if this proves problematic.>
2) Even though I will be using the foam filter in the opening between the biological area and the sump I am concerned that sand will come
into contact with the skimmer and return pump. Any advice on this?
<Not likely an issue... again, a modification/dam can be inserted if need be>
3) Do I need a plenum for the DSB and if so what is the best type to use for this purpose?
<No need for a plenum>
4) Can I get away with a 4 inch DSB? I plan to use 65 lbs of LR in the main and 10lbs in the refugium - is this a good ratio? Any advice on a better way
of creating a DSB in the biological area?
<This will work>
5) Finally, as you have advised I am using a skimmer and powerheads for circulation for curing my Live Rock. Should I be also using a filter for
mechanical (foam) with chemical (carbon) or is it unnecessary?
<I would use these if you have them>
A couple of emails ago Bob blessed the general concept of my sump/refugium but I don't think I gave that much detail about the setup and some of my
perceived concerns.
Thanks again - My future fish also thank you.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Modified Wet-Dry
Hello again, Bob.
Thank you for the quick response to my original email. The advice was well-taken and much appreciated. The Mag-Drive 7 works fine as you
predicted!
<Ah, good>
I have now purchased an AquaC Urchin w/MaxiJet 1200 pump. But it won't fit into my sump where the old protein skimmer existed. The area of the foot
where the pump housing attaches makes it just about an inch too wide. I have removed the last of the bio-balls out of the center chamber (there are
three chambers - the sump, the bio-ball area, and the return water area) which left only the plastic tray with filter media on top.
I completely removed the tray and filter media, and put the Urchin in there where it fit
easily. I don't think this should be a problem because I still have filter media in the bottom of the overflow in the display tank so in essence, the
water is still being filtered prior to going into the sump and protein skimmer.
Also, I added a small egg crate piece between the original sump area and the Urchin (that just fit into the grooves where the plastic tray
sat) and placed a small piece of filter on it. I've hung the bag of activated charcoal over the plastic that divides the first two chambers.
It's almost directly in front of where the drain hose from the overflow dumps into the sump so there's good water pressure there.
The lid to cover this area doesn't fit now though (Urchin is too tall) so I am going to have
to devise something to keep the water from evaporating too quickly. So, I was just wondering, do you think this setup work out okay?
<Hard to visualize (am still a bit sleepy), but a couple things... I take it the second chamber where the skimmer resides has a "wall" to keep the water depth constant... a good idea for function's sake... and do take care that the carbon filter bag is secure, lest it block the outgoing pipe. A top for the previous wet-dry can likely best be made by visiting a "plastic shop" (look in your Yellow Pages), searching through their scrap bin for a suitable piece of sheet, and cutting it (tape over the areas, draw the lines with a pen...) with simple hand and power tools. Bob Fenner> |
Re: Modified Wet-Dry
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the quick response. I guess it IS hard to imagine, so I've
attached a picture of the filter in its original form and will describe
how
it was, and how it is now.
<Ah, good>
It's hard to tell by the picture (because the white top cover is on it),
but
the acrylic divider separating chamber 1 and 2 only comes up as high as
the
bottom of the PVC pipe.
<Yes>
The 2nd chamber is the largest. It has two
removable trays - one holding up the bio-balls, the other holding the
filter
media.
The acrylic divider separating chamber 2 and 3 does not go all the
way to the BOTTOM of the sump.
<Yes... unfortunate... The first chamber, were it larger, would be
better to situate your skimmer (for constant water height mostly), or
the second chamber, if the overflow were at the TOP>
It ends at the top of that white sponge that
you see on the bottom. Basically, I've removed the skimmer, both trays,
all
media and the big white sponge - everything that wasn't glued
down. Now,
the only thing in chamber 1 is the bag of charcoal draped over the
divider
(about 2" away from the pipe opening); (I think if the bag should fall
off,
it will fall to the bottom of chamber 1).
<Okay>
The water in chamber 1 flows over
and through the charcoal bag and into chamber 2. Chamber 2 has the
Urchin
flush against the acrylic wall dividing the 2nd and 3rd chamber. But
the
Urchin towers over the top of the filter unit by about 5 ".
<This is okay>
The water in
chamber 2 comes approx half way up the length of the Urchin. Well past
the
MaxiJet.
<Do be "religious" re water volume in your system... to assure that this
level stays about such...>
The water from chamber 2 flows into chamber 3 through the bottom
where the acrylic divider ends (where the white sponge was). From
there,
gets returned to the display tank by the return pump. Clear as mud,
right?
<Not... is crystal clear now, thank you>
LOL. Am I correct in believing that it doesn't matter whether the
protein
skimmer is in the first or second chamber?
<Mmm, actually... would be better, as remarked, if it were in a part of
your sump that had constant, higher water height... as you'll find...
for skimmer function>
Thanks for the suggestion for a new cover. I know of a couple of
plastic
stores in the area so I'll check it out.
<Real good, and not to toss a sliding spanner into your works here, but
I do wish (and can conceive of this next...) we could go back, trade in
this modified wet-dry and start with another larger, more flexible
container...>
I appreciate all your help!
Best regards,
Diane
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Thank you so much for the comments. So far, the Urchin is doing a good job!
It's been in for a little over 24 hrs. and about 1/4 of the cup is full.
<Ah, good>
Please recommend which container(s) I should be considering so I can at least keep my eyes open for a 'good deal'.
<Most anything of size... even "totes" made of polyethylene... these are mentioned over and over on WWM>
Although I don't believe I can trade mine in, I could always put it up for sale on 'craigslist' or
something like that. In fact, that's where I got the Urchin for $95. Quite a savings, I thought.
<Yes>
I appreciate your responses so much. I know you must have a ton of email everyday from people like me
<Luckily not too much... a small part of one percent of the tens of thousands of people who peruse the site write in>
and I feel very fortunate that you have so kindly taken the time to respond to my questions. I will try not to take up
any more of your time unless absolutely necessary!
<No worries. I look forward to this interaction. Bob Fenner>
Sumps and refugiums, human behavior, WWM
Hello-
Sorry to bother you again but I was wondering about sumps and wet dry
filters. I have decided against a wet/dry, and wanted to get a
sump/refugium. If it is going to be a 55 gallon tank with as many fish
as I can get while keeping the bio-load reasonable compared to my
filtration. How much live rock should I keep in the sump and how much
should I keep in the display tank keeping in mind that I want a total of
55lbs of Live rock?
<Ten or so in the sump/refugium, the rest in your tank>
Is a sump better than a hang-on-back refugium?
<Either can be superior to the other>
also
how much live sand should I keep in the sump?
<This is posted on WWM>
I am planning on keeping
60lbs of live sand in the display tank. Finally I was wondering if you
could recommend a good sump for a refugium for the 55 gallon tank.
Thanks So much for your time, your advice is greatly appreciated.
Will
<Keep studying Will, and looking about for your possibilities, store-bought and
DIY. Bob Fenner>
Sumps, Wet-Dries
Hi Bob
Thanks for your advice re below. I have read the bio-ball FAQs and am a bit confused?
<Okay>
1) If I take the bio-balls out then what is the point of having a sump? Is it just to remove the ugly site
of skimmer and heater? Could I have then just purchased an external canister filter and put in some
filter floss, noodles and activated carbon?
<Mmmm, all you list is of value, plus added volume, aeration, another isolated spot to separate livestock... Canister filters not nearly as valuable>
2) If I slowly take out the bio-balls and then add some live rock and increase the volume of water - I
could probably submerge a few pounds of LR. Can I mix both bio-balls and live rock during a
transition period?
<Yes>
Wouldn't I get a massive build up of detritus in the bottom compartment where the heater is sitting?
<Mmm, not really, and not a real issue/problem... some of this mulm, which is mainly beneficial, can be siphoned out every few months>
3) Is there a point in having a spray bar any more? What should I do to now to replace this? I guess it
could also have the added benefit of reducing noise?
<Drip trays are far better than spray bars... don't clog, restrict flow, and never break down>
Thanks
Simon
<Bob Fenner>
Wet dry drain hose
Can you tell me the specifics of the drain hose for the wet dry filter. I'm
talking about the hose that connects from the overflow to the wet dry drain
hose. I am trying to find a company that sells the individual pieces. I found
one company, but I don't know what the hose is made from specifically and that
company has a wide choice of products. Thanks. <Try Drs. Foster & Smith or
Premium Aquatics. Both sell replacement hoses. James (Salty Dog)>
Oceanic trickle filter 150
I just purchased a 150 gallon aquarium. It has 2 overflow boxes one on each
side. In the bottom of each overflow box, there are two pre drilled holes. Each one is a different size. The tank come with an
Oceanic trickle filter 150. I have no idea how to hook up this filter. Could you please draw me a
diagram and help me out? I am totally clueless.
<Mmm, you need more help than this... I encourage you to either have a/the shop come by, hire a service company, or join a hobbyist club, have someone who knows what they're doing locally come by and check out what you have, help you with your options... The small hole in these tower/overflows are for return lines, the larger ones for directing water into sumps, pressurized filters... elsewhere>
I have tried all of the aquarium shops where I live and no one has seen a filter like this before. I
found your website while looking for instructions on this filter and thought maybe you could help, because I haven't found anyone else who can.
<You might try Oceanic, the manufacturer... but as stated, this will only get you "part of the answer/s"... How to say this to a new friend...? You may be aware of steps A, B, perhaps some of the C's... but know that there is much more of the alphabet to consider... If no other source of help is available, read until you understand what you're up to... After "doing this" for many years I assure you the only way to be successful, satisfied is to understand what your choices are, the rationale behind them... not to "cook book" one set of ideas. Bob Fenner>
Re: Wet-Dry modification, reef system set-up
Hi. I took the information given me and I appreciate it. Was wondering about that
Biowheel. Yes, you said 1/4 of media a week removal....but that
BioWheel is big......will it cause a rise in levels?
<Not likely... in an established system, plenty of other biological filter media, organisms>
And then water will trickle through all the trays but then will it just splash down where that
BioWheel used to be? Will that be o.k.?
<Should be>
Should I put some type of media in there? A sponge of some type? What could you recommend?
<You could, but it will have to be attended to... rinsed, cleaned frequently... perhaps daily>
And with hardy corals, not very demanding, 1,040 GPH in my 90 is not enough?
<Should be>
I understood that 10x [turnover] is sufficient. Yes of course some do 20x, but there are corals
that don't like it like that either.
<Yes>
Without blowing everything away, I can pick spots of stronger and lesser currents. Correct me if
I'm wrong on
this....do I need more flow? Thanks.
Renee
<You should be fine... good to find your understanding/realizing there are micro-habitats w/in systems. Bob Fenner>
WET/DRY
Hello everyone!
<Ughh...noon is too early to be awake>
I want to make this simple but enough info that you can
help my particular inquiry. I have a 90 gallon...with 100lbs. Of live rock.
Crushed coral substrate. 10 fish- royal Gramma, 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 flame
hawk, sailfin blenny, ruby-headed fairy wrasse, coral beauty, Red Sea purple
tang, hippo tang, mandarin. All doing very well. Beginning to stock with
very easy, hardy corals. That's all I have a desire to keep. Starburst
polyps doing great.
<I'm assuming Tubastrea spp.? They need daily feeding if so>
Also have 10 gallon refugium. Indo-Pacific Sea Farms
has been a great help in stocking this with algae and critters. It has a
deep sand bed. First very fine then fine. About 4 inches. Algae are
Halimeda, Ulva, Gracilaria, Red kelp. My equipment consists of a Turboflotor skimmer, UV, and a Tidepool wet dry. Which leads me to my
question...
I bought Mr. Fenneršs book (The Conscientious Marine Aquarist)
and was reading about filters. I am wondering about the feasibility of
SLOWLY taking out the bio balls and bio-wheel to avoid future build up
of nitrates. (I think this is why Mr. Fenner does not think too highly of
wet dry filtration for reefs).
<You're correct. The wet\dry in an aquarium likes yours is redundant, and can contribute to high nitrates in the future, though with your DSB it may not be a problem. If you plan on adding corals and no more fish, I would remove it, but if you are going to have a heavily stocked mostly-FO tank, you may consider leaving it>
I would leave the pre-filter trays in place
of course and still use the sump, etc. My pump does 500 gallons per hour
and I have two rotating powerheads each doing another 270 gallons per hour.
My nitrate is zero....yes the tank is young....6 months.
<I would seriously up the water flow in your aquarium...possibly build a manifold\closed
loop...Anthony has written tons of good info about manifolds on his forum @ Reef Central>
I cycled my
tank with live rock and initially that nitrate just hung out at 30. But
after much patience it dropped after a couple of months to zero. I do
regular cleanings once a week of the substrate and 10% water change and
clean most all pre-filters. I am purchasing from IPSF the Surfzone Live
Sand Activator Plus. Would adding this each time I took out say, four
cell-pore media balls compensate enough that may tank would not go through a
mini-cycle? I certainly donšt want to crash the aquarium, but do want to
try to get rid of these if possible. Surely not all my bacteria are in that
cell pore material and bio-wheel, right?
<With 100lbs of live rock, you should be able to remove 1\4th of your media per week. You're right, not all, and probably not even most, of the nitrifying bacteria\organisms are living in your wet dry - most are going to inhabit your live rock\sand. Monitor your water quality after the removal, but I am betting you won't see any adverse effects>
Oh, and when I get that sand from IPSF, how long should I shut off that UV while I wait for the good bacteria
to find a home?
<I wouldn't run a UV sterilizer in a reef tank at all - but they're fine in FOWLR>
Thank you for your time put into this question.
<You're welcome>
Sincerely,
Renee'
<M. Maddox>
Filtration
I have a 40 gallon FOWLR tank. It consists of 30lbs of live rock and approximately a 2-3 inch sand bed. I have been using a
AMiracle SL-5 hang-on wet/dry filter. I have been reading up on how wet/dry filtration
can lead to high nitrate levels. I’m thinking of changing my current filtration system to an Aqua C Remora skimmer and doing away with the
wet/dry all together. Would I need to add a power filter (i.e. AquaClear) for some mechanical/chemical filtration? I have a moderate/high bio load.
Any suggestion would be much appreciated.
<Brett, personally [I think] this nitrate buildup from using a wet/dry is blown way out of proportion. In a properly maintained tank the use of the wet/dry should cause no significant nitrate buildup. I think part of the problem is not using a filter pad on top of the drip plate can lead to this as the detritus/waste settles on the bottom of the sump and never gets cleaned. If a pad is used and changed weekly I don't see any problem. Overstocking lends
its hand also, along with infrequent water changes. I've used a wet dry in one of my tanks for three years and never had nitrates go above 10ppm. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks
<You're welcome>
Wet/Dry question 3/22/05
Okay, about a month ago I bought a 90 gallon tank from a guy who had it up and running for about 3 years. He has a wet/dry filter attached and protein skimmer. The wet/dry filter has the bio balls and I've been checking all my levels since moving it and they are all great except the nitrates! Sky high!!! Surprise, surprise!
<This is quite a classic situation!>
Plus starting to get the brown algae and red algae problems. From your site, I've been reading that the bio balls are the problem. So, if I want to go the route that's less maintenance as far as water changes go...... how do I get rid of the bio balls and what do I do instead? Do you get rid of them slowly or yank them all out and then put whatever else in there?? I'm willing to do whatever, but am overwhelmed with all what I'm reading and need some personal direction. Any information would be absolutely wonderful!! Oh, by the way, its a fish only tank. Thanks so
much! Kim
<You will need to replace the biological filtration somehow. My suggestion would be with live rock. After the live rock is cycled and added to the tank, you can begin removing the bioballs at a rate of about 20% per week until they are gone. This will give the live rock time to "pick up the slack". Maintaining alkalinity and calcium at normal levels will also help control the algae, especially in the presence of live rock. Good luck!
AdamC.>
Wet/Dry Filter question follow up 3/30/05
Oh, one more question. How do I tell how much live rock I need?
<The general rule is 1-2lb per gallon of tank volume, but I prefer to say about 1/3 of the volume. Better quality rock like Kaelini or Marshall Islands is more porous (so you need less) than Fiji or Caribbean.>
Just what will fit in the wet/dry filter? And, my wet/dry has three compartments. Do they all get rock? Or, just where the bioballs go?? Sorry, and thanks!!
<I would actually put the rock in the display rather than in the sump. It doesn't matter where in the system the rock is placed, it will function the same, so you might as well get the
aesthetic benefit of having it in the tank. The wet/dry can be converted to an empty sump, refugium, etc. Best Regards!
AdamC.>
Knocking Out Nitrates!
Hi there WWM Crew.
<Hey there! Scott F. here today!>
Hope you don't mind, but I have a question, despite reading so many of the articles concerning wet/dry filters.
<That's what the site is all about! Ask away!>
I have a 55 gallon tank, with an A-Miracle hang-on wet/dry trickle filter. I'm also using a Whisper dual cartridge filter with carbon. The tank has about 20 lbs of live rock, and the inhabitants (Red Coris Wrasse, Coral Beauty, Algae Blenny, Sebae Clown and a Yellow Tang, with a few snails and a Feather Duster, with some paintbrush macro-algae) all seem to be doing quite
well.
<Good to hear!>
I see so many references to the wet/dry filters producing nitrates, but my nitrates are about 20 ppm and have been at that level for about 6 months. My local fish store tested the water for phosphates and told me nothing to
worry about. Yet, I keep getting green algae blooms and I'm going crazy trying to clean the tank every week or so.
<Well, wet/dry filters excel at removing ammonia and nitrite, but they do little to keep up with and reduce nitrate, the "end product" of biological filtration. Nitrates and phosphates are a big source of nuisance algae blooms. In a tank with established nutrient export systems (i.e. deep sand beds, etc.), you should
achieve nearly undetectable levels of nitrate.>
Lighting is a total of 260 watts (2 x 55 watt blue actinics, one 50/50 40 watt, and 2x 55 watt 10000k bulbs). Initially, I was keeping the lights on about 10 - 12 hours per day. For the past couple of months, I have been keeping them on no more than 6 -8 hours per day, and still, green algae all over.
<Well, light in and of itself is not the cause of nuisance algae. Light and available nutrients are the contributors.>
Would it help to clean the bio balls at this stage (the wet/dry has been up and running well over a year.
<I'd consider ditching the bioballs all together, and just relying on a deep sand bed, live rock, chemical filtration media, (activated carbon/Poly Filter) aggressive protein skimming, quality source water, and frequent small water changes to do the job.>
The built in skimmer rarely works.
<A reliable, productive skimmer really helps. It is your first line of defense against accumulations of dissolved organics. Do consider upgrading to a skimmer that really does the job.>
I use at least 2 filter pads at all times, and I either change one and rinse the other every week, or rinse both weekly.
<Good practice.>
Still green algae blooms. What if I remove the bio balls entirely, and replace them with a good amount of activated carbon?
<I wouldn't use carbon "in place of" bioballs. Rather; I'd use it in addition to any other filtration media/method.>
Would I be better off removing the wet/dry entirely and going with a canister filter and better skimmer?
<Just a better skimmer!>
Or can I simply help solve the problem by pre-treating new water when I do my weekly 10 - 15 % changes, by using a phosphate remover before adding the new water to the tank?
<These are definitely helpful practices, but should be used in conjunction with other techniques.>
Thanks so much for your help. I'm pulling my hair out with this, and I really don't want to go bald (I'm running out of time).
<Hang in there! Try some of the ideas that I outlined here. Do a little research here on the WWM site and you'll find a wealth of information on this topic! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Biological filtration
I have a standard wet/dry sump on a 75-gallon FOWLR marine tank. I have my Wavemaster
Pro set to run the main pump which allows a timed feeding cycle of 30-minutes. This being a great feature since most of my deposited food floats for the at least a couple of minutes as the fish
and invertebrates slowly start to eat it, without the pump off my overflow quickly cleans up the food moving it to the mechanical filter very fast.
My question is, during the feeding cycle of 30-minutes the wet/dry filters biological media is covered totally underwater (as
opposed to "being dripped on") since the sump pump is off and the water level decreases temporarily in the main tank. Is this hurting my bacteria colonies on the substrate in the wet/dry chamber by having it "oxygen deprived" for a short period of time twice a day? Appreciate your time in reading this, I truly hope its a unique question, I tried
all the keywords I could find to make sure it was not answered yet in the wet/dry and bioballs sections.
<Phil my friend, you have no worries. James (Salty Dog)>
Wet/Dry Filters/Cleaning
I have recently purchased a 125 gallon reef tank and it came with a Aqua Clear Aquatics 200 wet/dry filter. My question is, do you clean the bio balls and sponge? If so, how often do I clean both? Also there are particles of brown stuff building up in the area where the pump pumps out the water, should I clean out the whole system?
<Robert, you do not clean the bio-balls as that is where the denitrifying bacteria will be growing. The pre-filter sponge should be cleaned weekly. The brown "stuff" is either diatoms or rust. If it looks like it is around the screws that fasten the impeller housing to the body, it is rust and the grade of stainless screws being used isn't up to par. Here is a link to wet/dry FAQ's that may answer any future questions you may have about wet/dries.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wetdryfaqs.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you
<You're welcome>
Changing to a wet/dry filter
I am switching from a hang on filter with a bio wheel to a wet/dry filter. How long should I leave the old filter in place until the new filter develops the bacteria needed to sustain the tank?
<Chris, just put the bio-wheel itself in your sump for a couple weeks. James (Salty Dog)><<I'd
overlap the filters for a few weeks. RMF>>
Noisy Eheim
Hi, I have a Eheim Pro 2227 wet dry filter, I just recently cleaned it and now when it fills up it makes a loud humming noise then is dead silent when it releases the water??? what could some of the problems be???
<Dana, go to www.eheim.com. I think you can find the info there, or contact them from their site. James (Salty Dog)>
Wet/Dry Instructions
I have a Tru vu wet/dry filter, it is a hanging filter (mighty max). If you
could email me graphic instructions so I could get it to work. I bought a 75
gal. hex and it came with the filter but no graphic instructions. I am just
starting to set up my first salt water tank, if you could help me. Thank You
<Yvonne, we do not have graphic instructions for setting up wet/dry filters per
se, but I would contact someone that sells the TruVu brand and ask them for some
help. James (Salty Dog)>
Hang On Overflow Box
When you use a hang-on type overflow box with a wet/dry sump filter, does
that produce any noise problem? <There will be some> I've read that the tanks
that have the built-in overflow are noisy? I've searched your site but can't
find the answer. Please help! <I've had several tanks with built-in overflows
and found none that were distracting to me, unless this tank is going into your
bedroom, you'll be better off with the built-in overflow as they have fewer
problems than the hang-ons. James (Salty Dog)>
Mitch
Re: filtration on saltwater and plant tanks
Thanks for the quick reply!<You're welcome> In regards to the Zoo Med Powersweeps- if they stop rotating won't they still serve their purpose or will I be
better off replacing
them with a couple more Maxi-Jets or something different? <They will still pump
water but in short time they won't rotate.>
Also wondering if it is possible to replace the media in the Eheim wet dry
filter as it is filled in the Eheim pro with the addition of the pads and have
it work like the pro ( according to the manual you can only use Ehfisubstrat for
the wet/dry to function). Probably a
stupid question- sorry <No stupid questions, just stupid answers. I don't know
that I quite follow you. You want to replace the Ehfisubstrat with something
else? The Eheim wet/dry will not function as a power filter as such although
any media (carbon, etc) will still be useful in that regard, its just that you
won't get constant water flow through it as I understand the Eheim wet/dries
pulsate up and back. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks again, Karen
- Nitrates and Wet/Dry Filters -
Hi,
<Hi.>
After many years of freshwater aquariums (and the birth of my three sons), I
found myself bored and lackadaisical especially when it came to maintenance. I
finally decided it was time to either get rid of the aquarium or make a
change. I decided to convert to SW and did quite a bit of reading. Lots of
good info from The Conscientious Marine Aquarist--unfortunately, did not find
WWM until after buying a wet/dry. My passion for this hobby is back in full
force. Unfortunately, with the previously mentioned 3 small children, I don't
always have as much time to read as much I would like and now I need to get some
quick, specific answers, if possible. I have a 55 gal. aquarium, ProClear
Aquatics 75 Wet/Dry with built in skimmer and prefilter, 44lbs of live rock, 40
lbs live sand, 20 lbs crushed coral. Two percula clowns, one yellow tang, one
Royal Gramma, two turbo snails, and 2 hermit crabs. I have been doing about a
10% water change every week and rinsing out the prefilter sponge and filter pad
that sits on the trickle plate above the bioballs at the same time. My ammonia
and nitrites are at 0, but my nitrates are high--between 40-80 ppm. I now
understand that the wet/dry is part of the problem, but is there anything else
that I need to be doing differently? I would like to stay with mostly fish, but
would like to add more snails, crabs and shrimp. Most of my snails and crabs
died awhile ago--along with a cleaner shrimp. :( I assumed due to the high
nitrates. <Certainly a possibility.> If I do not want to do a refugium sump, can
I just pull the bioballs out? <Yes, but best to take out a handful every day or
two rather than all at once.> Do I need to add more live rock either to the
display tank or to the wet/dry or do I have enough? <I would add more live rock
to the sump, and just make sure it stays submerged.> If I have enough LR in the
tank already, do I just pull the bioballs and leave the trickle plate and filter
pad in place?
Any other instructions? <Take your time... keep up the water changes.> Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your help,
Diana
<Cheers, J -- >
Re: wet dry systems with more info
Hello again,
I am going to go into a little more detail on my system. (sorry) I have a 55
gallon aquarium on a home built stand with my own style ballast hood. The
lights I have are a 48inch 50/50 and 10,000 K actinic with glass hood. I have
40 pounds of crush coral as substrate and 150 watt heater. Once the tank is
up and running I will order between 45 and 60 pounds of Fiji live rock. After
the tank is cycled I wish to get (in order of must have to can do with out)
1.Antennata lion fish
2.Yellow tang
3.Black and white butterfly
4.Flame angel
5.Scooter Blenny also a must<Too many fish for a 55 for starters. Some of these
get quite large>
Last night I spoke to a doctor who is partners with my father and has many
successful reef and FO aquariums suggested to me that I should look at the
Magnum
350 pro. He has one and loves it.<The magnum pro is a good choice for a
55> The catch is he runs that with a sump for
add filtration. That seems a bit overkill to me.<You can never have overkill in
regards to filtration> Two questions on this...
If I went this route would I need a protein skimmer<a protein skimmer is not an
absolute must, but very highly recommended> and what type is suggested <An AquaC
Remora would be ideal for your tank>
and is this a worth while system for what I want? The wet dries the store is
trying to sell me that I told you about comes with skimmer bio balls a return
pump and all for 185$ (hang on w/d). The store says it is the best but all
advice he tells me seems to contradict everything everybody else tells me. He
is the only store around that sells sumps or wet dries. In your opinion please,
what would be the best system based on this info, I am a 17 yr old high
school kid with a very busy schedule. I attend school, I am a EMT Fire Fighter
and an aide at my local hospital. I have about the ability to build any thing
due to my machining skills and I have a multi million dollar machine shop to my
dispose due to school. If it would be easier to build a sump system please
send me the link or blue prints. I can devote about 2 hours a day for this so
please help me out I would greatly appreciate it.<I also suggest you go to the
wetwebmedia forum and read the "Newbies" section daily. So much of this will
pertain to you> Good luck. James (Salty Dog)
Thanks again, Brian
P.S. If you would like to see pictures of the stand tank and hood let me now.
I can also send pictures of the shop I work in if interested.
Wet/Dry of a Refugium?
Blundell,
When I went to purchase a 58-gallon aquarium, my LFS told me I would
be better with a wet/dry system and that a refugium is mostly for a reef
aquarium. << I know people say that, but I don't think so. I really think a
refugium can out perform a wet/dry any day. >> The waste load created by the
fish and feeding would surpass the
refugium. I was told the skimmer needed would be a downdraft skimmer. Are
these valid reasons to go with a wet/dry? << The skimmer doesn't need to be a
down draft, but a powerful skimmer is definitely a good idea. As for the
refugium, I guess you could look around at other tanks and see what looks like
it will work best for you. Personally I see lots of people converting their
wet/dry's into refugia. >>
Thanks,
Gary Gauthier
<< Blundell >>
Converting a wet/dry into a refugium
I need to get some fast advice on my current situation/problem. I
have
a 75-US gal FOWLR (only 40 lbs of live rock, currently) and wanted to
add a sump/refugium to the system. My current system is a drilled
tank
with an overflow to a Tidepool wet/dry w/ BioWheel. I was planning to
overflow the wet/dry to a 10-gal sump w/ refugium and miracle mud
(that's the biggest that will fit under the tank and it does have to go
under, can't go over) and then use the existing pump that is in the
wet/dry to get the water back up to the main tank just by simply moving
the pump into the end chamber of the 10-gal sump. Well, after looking
at the diagrams of how my overflow box works that I purchased to bridge
the wet/dry to the sump, I realized that the one that I bought won't
work b/c it won't reach to the operating water line of the wet/dry. So,
how do I get water from my wet/dry to the sump tank? Or can I convert
the wet/dry open area into a refugium? << Yes, it is very common. Many
people remove the bioballs and just fill that area with live rock and macro
algae. Then add a light on top of it, and you are done. >> I
would rather have the 10-gal
sump b/c it has more volume of water than the wet/dry (which only has
about 5 gal in the open area at operating level). If I can't use the
10-gal sump, then do I need to put dividers into the wet/dry? << Most wet
dry have dividers in them already, but if not, then yes you would want to do so
to prevent sand and debris from getting into the pump. >> I
would
think that if it was used open without any dividers, the miracle mudwould be stirred up too much. Any help on this would be a tremendous
help! << Well with live rock in there I wouldn't worry about the mud
stirring up. You can always use a drip plate, which I think most
wet/dry's come with. >>
<< Blundell >>
Wet Dry?
Hi, your web site is great! First I have a wet dry filter with Bio balls on a
75 gallon reef tank. My nitrates are around 30 and from reading some of your
articles I guess I should take out the balls slowly. But what should I put in
there, Live rock or nothing?
<You have come to the correct conclusion... I would encourage you to remove the
bio balls. This space can be left empty or you could add live rock if you wish,
just keep it all submerged.>
If live rock should be in there should a light be on it all day or say 12 hours.
I have about 70 pounds of live rock in the tank now.
<You have plenty of rock in your display to support the tank. If you do choose
to add some to the sump, I would recommend 12-16 hrs of light on a schedule
opposite that of your display. Electricity is cheaper at night and lighting the
what will now be a refugium opposite the main tank helps stabilize pH.>
Two more questions: Do denitrator reducers work? I was thinking about getting
the coil one but heard they plug up.
<Removing the bio balls should solve your nitrate problem. Denitrators do work,
but they are fussy to maintain.>
Also how much should a protein skimmer produce in a day? Thank you much. <Just
the right amount! Seriously though, it is hard to say. It depends on the
skimmer, the stocking level of the tank and other factors. On my 92 gal tank, I
have a Euro-Reef cs6-2 skimmer that produces about a pint of dark chunky
skimmate and a thick build up in the neck every three or four days. HTH. Best
regards. AdamC>
Marine in China
Dear MacL, <Hi again Dave, MacL here with you again tonight>
Thanks for the reply. <You are welcome, I have been thinking about you since
last we talked actually.> My main concern regarding your reply is that I can not
get quantities of Live Rock in Shanghai. <I wondered about that. The good news
is that any live rock will seed any reef safe non life rock and there are
multiple places online that will teach you how to make reef safe
rock> Therefore what is the best
alternative as far as filtration goes without this? <I think your wet/dry will
work just fine if you use it knowing its limitations. A wet/dry will get a
build up on nitrates unless you keep it very very clean but it does provide you
with good oxygenation in your tank so it does have an upside. Just remember that
since it does build up nitrates you are going to have to be diligent in your
ways to remove the nitrates. I really think you are well on your way to a lovely
lovely system. I do know its interesting dealing with the cultural differences
of countries. Please let me know how it goes and if you have any more questions
don't hesitate to let me know. MacL>
Best regards
Dave
Wet Dry Conversion
>>>Greetings, Jim here<<<
First off.. great site!!! very informative. I have 180G tank, wet/dry/just
purchased the AquaC Ev240..yeah!! approx 75lb LR, small fish bioload,
Condy,
polyps (not growing). I have read to remove bioballs (nitrate factory) and foam
blocks. but here is my concern. If I remove the bio-balls it's like Niagara
falls
in the room. It's been mentioned to add sand & LR rubble to sump (how
much?),<<<That's up to you, there is no minimum or maximum but enough to dampen
the sound of the water at least<<<< wouldn't adding more live rock to main tank
do the same? <<<not if you're trying to reduce noise in the sump>>> why grow
macro algae
in sump if it can be grown in tank? (aesthetics?). <<<Pretty much, also some
species are invasive and can take over a tank<<< If I do put
sand/LR in sump,
lights on 24/7 or dark? <<<no lights needed unless you are growing macros<<<
Should I remove drip plate and extend return with PVC
w/T fitting down under sump water level so it doesn't crash down and stir up
sand? If so, what about gas exchange now? I can baffle the sump so sand
doesn't return to pump returns/skimmer. my goal is zero nitrates-efficient <<<I
would go with the baffle idea<<<
filtration/skimming b/c I want to move to corals eventually. I have read pages
upon pages
but all these little things keep popping up? I already wish I knew then what I
know now (i.e.. LFS setup). I want to do everything right for perfect
water/less maintenance...love the hobby. thanks for your help.. and this great
site!
>>>Best of luck,
Jim<<<
Converting a wet dry filter into a refugium
I am in the process of planning out a 75 gallon tank for a reef set-up. I
had it set up at one point, but moved and never got to completing the
stocking. Here I am starting from the beginning again. my question is as
follows. I have a 25 gallon wet-dry trickle filter system with bio-balls.
The system is split into 2 partitions. The overflow from the tank goes to
the filter into a drip tray with pre-filter media. Then drips into bio-ball
chamber. Then flows into 2nd partition to be pumped back into tank. What I
wanted to do was remove the bio balls. Replace the bio balls with live
bio-rock and make the first chamber into a mini refugium. Does this make
sense. << Yes, this is very common, and I encourage you to do it. >> In doing
this do I keep the drip tray to drip directly onto rock? << Either way. >>
Do I keep the pre-filter media? << I would probably take it out, since I don't
know what it is. >> I would keep the 2nd partition for the
return piece to place the skimmer. Any help is greatly appreciated. << Removing
the drip tray helps because then you can put lights on your refugium for macro
algae. Good luck. >>
Thank You
<< Blundell >>
Wet Dry Filter Conversion (Bob's go)
I am in the process of planning out a 75 gallon tank for a reef set-up. I
had it set up at one point, but moved and never got to completing the
stocking. Here I am starting from the beginning again. my question is as
follows. I have a 25 gallon wet-dry trickle filter system with bio-balls.
The system is split into 2 partitions. The overflow from the tank goes to
the filter into a drip tray with pre-filter media. Then drips into bio-ball
chamber. Then flows into 2nd partition to be pumped back into tank. What I
wanted to do was remove the bio balls. Replace the bio balls with live
bio-rock and make the first chamber into a mini refugium. Does this make
sense. In doing this do I keep the drip tray to drip directly onto rock?
<Keep the rock submersed, that is, underwater. Using the drip tray is fine
otherwise>
Do I keep the pre-filter media?
<No, give it the heave-ho>
I would keep the 2nd partition for the
return piece to place the skimmer. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank You
<Glad to proffer my opinion. Bob Fenner>
- Wet/Dry Conversion -
I am in the process of planning out a 75 gallon tank for a reef set-up. I
had it set up at one point, but moved and never got to completing the
stocking. Here I am starting from the beginning again. my question is as
follows. I have a 25 gallon wet-dry trickle filter system with bio-balls. The
system is split into 2 partitions. The overflow from the tank goes to the
filter into a drip tray with pre-filter media. Then drips into bio-ball
chamber. Then
flows into 2nd partition to be pumped back into tank. What I wanted to do was
remove the bio balls. Replace the bio balls with live bio-rock and make the
first chamber into a mini refugium. Does this make sense. <Sure.> In doing this
do I keep the drip tray to drip directly onto rock? <Probably, but you want to
make certain the rock is completely submerged, otherwise you'll still have a
wet/dry filter with a different type of media.> Do I keep the pre-filter media?
<Would be better for the refugium if it were to get raw water, so no to the
prefilter.> I would keep the 2nd partition for the return piece to place the
skimmer. Any help is greatly appreciated. <Consider also the possibility of
just using another, smaller tank and just toss the entire wet/dry... their
design is such that they don't always convert well to other uses.>
Thank You
<Cheers, J -- >
Converting a wet/dry into a refugium
Hello,
Excuse me if the following seems to be as though I don't know what I am
talking about. I currently have a 55 gallon fish only tank that contains 2
filters that hang off the back. I also have a 75 gallon tank. This is
where my questions are coming in. This tank is a standard 75 gallon with 1
corner built in overflow box. Under the tank (in the stand) is a filter.
This is where I may sound as though I don't know what I am talking about.
The overflow tank uses gravity to bring water into this clear rectangular
filter. It drains into the first part of the filter, into a drip tray.
This then drips onto bio balls. This then flows into another portion of the
tank which fills with the water, and is then pumped into the tank. My
question are as follows. What type of system is this. << It is a sump, and this
type is a wet/dry filter, getting its name from the bioballs which are wet and
dry. >> Is this a refugium,
is it a sump? Is this a practical set up? << I don't really think so. I think
they are quite outdated. I would take out the bioballs and fill that area with
sand and algae, making it into a refugium. >> If I am to connect a skimmer
where would it go? << Probably right where the water is coming into this filter,
before the sand and algae, and before it gets pumped back up. >> I am looking
into making this a reef tank and would like
to know what I need to get this started. Thank you in advance for your
help. << There is a ton of info on refugiums in the Invert book by Calfo and
Fenner. Also, try searching for refugiums online and I'm sure you can see lots
of pics of people doing this exact thing. Good luck! >>
Best Regards,
Jason
<< Blundell >>
- Which Pump -
Hi,
I am running a Del Ray 125 wet dry filter. My tank is a 100 gal, Fish only. My
question is what size return Pump do I use. Will a Rio 3100 work or a 2500. <I'd
go for the larger pump, perhaps larger even than a Rio 3100.> The flow will also
go through a 12X Turbo Twist UV filter. <Would suggest that you loop this
through it's own pump... a flow rate of even the 2500 at full bore won't kill
much of anything in this unit.>
I don't know what will work the best. Please Help.
<Cheers, J -- >
Wet/Dry Media Question
Hello crew, <Hello! Ryan with you today>
I have been looking on your site about wet and dry filters, a lot are saying not
to have the bio balls .<Depends on the method you would like to use for
filtration. I prefer to skip the bio-media, and go with a complete filtration,
i.e. Live rock. If you'd like to use wet/dry media, simply keep a close eye on
nitrates, and be sure to do regular water changes.> I have attached my tank set
up with this e-mail, could you please have a look and let me know what you think
of what I am doing with my set up so far. <Looks good, but please put this in
the body of the email! This is how your question is relevant to others.>
I did not include the lighting I use (2 x 4ft fluors 1 super day & 1 actinic
blue ) at this point.
Also can I place a air stone in the sump for water movement. <Sure, but a
skimmer would work much better at adding oxygen to the water. Have a nice day,
Ryan>
Tank Filtration/Wet Dry
Dear Mr. Blundell,
<< Oh please, Adam or Blundell or Fish Nerd, but not Mr. Blundell >>
Thanks for your quick reply. What we are really asking is, do we really need
the wet/dry with the Perfecto overflow/return assemblies? << No you don't. >>
- This system doesn't filtrate or circulate the water well at all without
major supplementation << I like keeping the wet dry system running, even if it
doesn't have bioballs, just for water circulation reasons. But really, you
don't need it. >>
- The wet/dry make a lots noise and has no prefilter for a protein skimmer
- The Perfecto return assemblies blow the sand off the bottom of the tank no
matter how they are adjusted
- The Perfecto overflow assemblies seem to skim just the top water leaving
most of the debris behind. << This is normal. I think a lot of the time we skim
the surface and the rest of the tank water doesn't move. Therefore, I do like
powerheads in the tank, and sometimes using a turkey baster to spray off the
rocks. On the other hand, lots of people like their detritus to sit on the
bottom and not blow around in the tank. >>
We found that with the addition of the Eheim
- Filtration improved greatly
- Water circulated more evenly without sand being kick up and creating
drifts.
- The water is not crystal clear, it always has something suspended in it
(sand, bubbles) Is this normal with a sandbed? We usually only see fish only
systems with gravel and they are always crystal clear. << Well I like the
increased filtration and circulation. That is great. As for particles in the
water... well it depends on what they are. I love seeing rotifers all over in
the water. But if it is small sand particles, then I think the water flow needs
to be spread out with a spray bar, so you don't get such a large flow of water
in one area. >>
Should we eliminate the original filtration/circulation system (eliminate the
wet/dry, bypass the Perfecto overflows and return assemblies and add another
Eheim)? << Well tough question. You'd have to pay the money for another
Eheim. I do like any type of sump areas, I think they really allow for excess
tinkering (not that we need more reasons to tinker with our tanks or anything).
>> Are canisters advisable with large marine systems (will we lose the
oxygen we create with the wet/dry)? or should we just stick with what we have (
wet/dry and Eheim) and add another Eheim. << Canister filters help, but live
rock and live sand are really the keys to marine tanks. They filter far greater
than anything else. I wouldn't get rid of what you have, just maybe add
something else. You could add another Eheim but for the same cost, I would
consider adding more live rock. >>
Regardless of what we do to the original filtration system, we will
definitely add more live rock and a protein skimmer. << Fantastic, just what I
was saying. >> Where we add the protein skimmer
depends on what we do to the system. We know this is not an exact science.
Each system has it's own personality, but we would rather make any necessary
major adjustments to our system now rather than rely on the patches we've made
thus far and regret it later. We would like to add more fish in the future
(like angels and triggers) but are afraid the filtration is still not up to par.
(The nitrates are still at 80 since the beginning.) << That is high. A deep
sand bed and live rock will help there. >> We welcome your input, we
hope our intentions are clearer than our previous email << I hope this helps
answer your questions, but feel free to write back. >>
Thanks
Sincerely,
Nancy and Rocco
<< Blundell >>
Moving Filter Media
Hello WWM Crew,
<Hi! Ryan Bowen with you>
I have a problem I'm hoping you can help. <Do my best> I have a large
wet/dry on a 180 gallon tank. The fish are 1 yellow tang, 1 Foxface, 1 (5")
lionfish, 1 (10") puffer, 1 (10") panther grouper. The problem is that one of
the lower tray that holds the bio-balls has collapsed. Little by little
bio-balls are escaping and getting sucked into the pump so I have to remove
them. <Yikes. Replace them with live rock?>
My question is how do I install a new wet/dry? There is no room underneath
the stand for two large wet/dries.
I tried just adding one on and eventually overtime remove the bio-balls of the
old filter so the bacteria would have to colonize on the new filter, but that
didn't work out... One filter in low on water the other is high, make some
adjustments and vice versa I sure you know what I mean.
<I'd remove all the bio-balls from the first filter, place them in a clean
bucket, then hook up the new filter. Use the bio-balls from your old filter in
place of the new bio-balls, and the bacteria should be able to keep up. But
please, get some water ready for a water change if need be. Good luck!
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/biological/biofiltr.htm>
What should I do?
Thank a lot,
Melissa
-Eheim Problems -
Hello,
I just recently bought a Eheim 2227 dry/wet filter thing. <Ok... am only
slightly familiar with the model, but I'll do my best.>
After installing it all and making sure nothing is wrong with the tubes i
started filling the filter. Then turned it on. Now a constant noise is heard
from the breathing tube. Like a vacuum cleaner. <Hmm... breathing tube? Is this
the intake tube? If so, perhaps there is either a crack in the tube or the
intake it too close to the surface of the water so that the unit is sucking in
air.> Also the filter itself makes a little noise like a little waterfall. <This
I would expect due to the wet/dry design.> I switched the filter on and off and
on and off and tried a lot of things reducing the noise. <I'd just go through
everything one more time - make sure the intake is not taking in air somewhere.>
Is this normal? <Not sure.> My other filter a Eheim classic makes almost no
noise at all. <True, these are almost silent.> Please help here........
Richard
<Cheers, J -- >
- Eheim Problems, Follow-up -
????? Guess you don't know what filter i am talking about? <I know exactly
which filter you are talking about, but perhaps you've missed my caveat... I've
never used it, but I'm more than willing to try and help. Please explain -
breathing tube.
Cheers, J -- >
Bioball Blunder? (Nitrogen Cycle Disruption)
Guys,
<Scott F. your guy today!>
Recently , I went away for a long weekend. When I returned, I noticed my wet/dry
was severely clogged so it wasn't working very well. Just enough to barely keep
a drip coming trough my filter. After checking the bio balls, I decided they
were moist enough, so I removed the impedance and let the tank run full tilt
...I figured I would lose some of my biologics, but being that I have so many
back ups (see my specs below) I wouldn't have a problem. A week later, I noticed
both my Powder Blue Tang (had for 2 yrs) and my Yellow Tang (had for 7 months)
dead with my clown fish grasping for air.
<Yikes!>
I quickly removed them into my hospital tank and noticed them perk right up... I
immediately assumed lack of oxygen!! Or a high level of nitrates!!
<Honestly, I've never heard of nitRATES causing this type of reaction. NITRITE,
maybe-or ammonia...Did you check ammonia and nitrite?>
After testing my fears, we somewhat confirmed with nitrates at approx 18-20.
<Not what you'd want in a reef tank, but certainly not "toxic" enough to create
the reaction that you're seeing. Bioball-filtered systems often run at nitrate
levels between 10-20ppm...>
After a closer look with stomach in its proper place, I noticed that one of my
anemones is missing (had 2 pink tips located on opposite ends. Now I have one
(They haven't moved since I got them) which I have had for a few months! Knowing
what they are capable of, I began my quest to immediately find it... I had no
luck. It is completely gone, vanished!! Could this raise my levels so
drastically?
<A death of an animal such as this, if left undetected, could create significant
ammonia/nitrite levels in some systems>
The other anemone looks fine, and I have since run carbon on the tank for two
days and added my fish back and they seem to be fine. My nitrates are back to
normal after adding "Biozyme"... Should I be
looking for something else?
<Well, an unusual "die off" event like this usually has its root cause in some
sort of sudden environmental shift. Long established fish and animals generally
don't expire so quickly unless something was up. Tangs are notoriously touchy
when it comes to rapid changes in environmental conditions. Your hunch about
oxygen was an interesting one, although not likely the cause. I would have loved
to have seen you test for ammonia and nitrite. Sounds like your biological
filtration was severely interrupted, or that some influx of metabolic toxins was
released into the system as a result of the disturbance. You want to also
confirm that your system was operating at peak efficiency-not "on the brink of
disaster"- waiting for some small event to tip it over the edge. If it were me,
I'd make an extra effort to perform some small, frequent water changes for a
while, and I'd work that skimmer until you produce at least a couple of cups of
dark, yucky smelling skimmate a week. Work the nutrient export angle
aggressively. In fact, with significant amounts of live rock and sand in your
system, you may want to ditch the bioballs altogether at some point, as they
will continue to contribute nitrate to the system. gain, nitrate in and of
itself is not "bad"- it's just a good yardstick for overall water quality.>
I have 1yr old 120 gallon (seeded from a 5 yr old 55) that has 4*96 watt CFL,
two powerheads 802 in the tank for circulation, 24 inch CPR refugium (10months
old including LR, mangroves, other algae plants , 4 Peppermint Shrimp), homemade
wet/dry (5 gallon bucket full of bio balls - 40 gallon sump, 1000 gallon an hour
return including a Berlin classic protein skimmer), at least 150 pounds LR , 5
pd.s of GARF grunge on top of a one inch crushed coral bed 3/4 of the tank 1/4
live sand. other fish , 2 Percula Clowns, 1 Sixline wrasse, 4 cleaner shrimp,
approx 50 hermit crabs, 50 assorted snails, 2 Bar Gobies, 1 Algae Blenny, 1
Damsel , 3 Spotted Cardinals, 2 sand sifting star fish, 1 Brittle starfish , 1
Decorator Crab ... I think that about does it. Unless some freeloaders came with
the rock...
Timothy M. Blind
<Well, Timothy, your system sounds pretty well managed and not overstocked. I
think that this was some kind of one-time event linked to the disruption of the
biological filtration. It seems too coincidental. However, it's important to
regularly monitor your environmental parameters to be able to spot trends that
could hint at some problem down the line. Stay on top of those good husbandry
techniques that you've developed, keep changing the water, and don't be
discouraged. Hang in there! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Bioball Blunder? (Pt. 2)
Scott,
<Hi there!>
As a worried parent of-course I checked all my levels!! But I didn't have
anything else that was out of whack so to speak. I do understand that tangs are
less hardy to any changes in the environment but the fact that my rock solid
clown fish were grasping for air is what really scared me....I still do not feel
comfortable with the tank, maybe it comes from having so much time invested to a
stable environment.
<True...These kinds of events are highly unusual and very unnerving!>
The only thing I forgot to add in my prior email was that I use RO water rebuilt
with Osmo prep marine.
<Sounds fine>
calcium approx 450
ammonia approx .2
<Whoaahh- Ammonia should be undetectable. Are you sure? You should have no
visible ammonia reading. Do recheck- or have this correlated by someone with a
different test kit.>
nitrite as close to zero as it has ever been....
<As in "zero"...or something more than zero? Again- not what you want to see>
I will be continuing to do water changes but i am still so confused , like you
said, I should be able to run without the bioballs considering the low bioload
in the tank and the fully functional refugium.
<Exactly...Which is why I think that your ammonia and nitrite levels may be an
artifact of expired reagents or human error (i.e.; a misread of the results). You
sound like a good aquarist; really on the ball with things, and if you've had
continuous low-level ammonia and nitrite, something is really wrong>
I guess I will chalk this up to even in perfect systems we can not duplicate the
natural environment
<Not to the point of it being indistinguishable from nature!>
and we can't watch the tank all day long....
<Yep- I wish we all could!>
On a separate issue, I was reading an article on star fish and it was
stating that they can very methodically remove the "Live Part " of your
substrate is this true?
<Some starfish do eat the infauna that reside in sandbeds. Yep.>
If so , can you suggest something that would burrow into the substrate without
removing all of the beneficial organisms.
< Yep! A small wooden dowel, strategically placed in by you to break up any
solidified sections of your sand bed! Quite honestly, I don't really see the
need for sand sifting stars and cucumbers in a well maintained system. This is
not to say that including them is wrong...I just don't believe it is essential
for success, myself. Many of the smaller worms and other creatures that reside
in the sand bed will "aerate" the sand bed in a manner analogous to their
terrestrial counterparts. I don't like disturbing any more than the top half
inch of sand. That's my personal take on this issue!>
Thanks again for your time,
Tim
<My pleasure, Tim! Good luck the rest of the way! Regards, Scott F>
Timothy M. Blind
Live Rock vs. Bio Balls in wet/dry filter - The full Grok
Dear Bob & Crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight!>
I'm hoping that you'd be able to shed some light on the highly debated issue of what filter material works best in a wet/dry filter. My system is 175 gallons with about 2" - 3" of fine grain (sugar-sized)
aragonite sand, some live rock, but it's mostly a fish tank. I use a sump with a twin pump Euro-Reef skimmer (with ozone). Tank turns over about 9X per hour.
Live Rock - The live rock proponents say to ditch bio balls and fill your wet/dry chamber with live rock fragments because bio balls create nitrate. I'm thinking, well duh, of course bio balls create nitrate as the natural result of the biological filtration process. They say that the bacteria growing inside the rock consumes nitrate. Does this only happen when the rock is submerged, or will this also be true in the oxygen rich air/water
exchange area of the wet dry? If only when submerged, would it be beneficial to ONLY pack the submerged portion of the wet dry with rock?
<Personally, I am of the opinion that denitrification will generally take place at a more significant level in rock that is submerged. For this reason, I'd use live rock as a filter adjunct in either a submerged area of my sump, or just in the display itself. I have always been a big fan of ditching all media in a "trickle filter", and just letting the live rock and sand in the display or an attached refugium do the work. Then, the sump is simply the "nerve center" of your water processing system, functioning as a place for chemical filtration media, the skimmer, etc.>
Bio Balls - The bio ball proponents site the ball's superior surface area thereby it's greater capacity for supporting bacteria makes it superior. That the only reason balls create more nitrate (if in fact they do) is because of its superior ability to process ammonia and nitrite.
<Essentially- they are so efficient at fostering bacteria that process ammonia and nitrite that the bacteria which break down nitrate simply cannot multiply fast enough to keep up>
Further, at least monthly water changes need to be performed anyway to replenish nutrients, so nitrate shouldnšt really be an issue if you keep up with your water changes.
<Nitrate can certainly be managed with frequent small water changes, use of aggressive protein skimming, chemical filtration media, etc., but natural denitrification processes are your best friend, IMO. That's one of the reasons why deep sand beds are a very popular method to help accomplish this>
What I'd like to know is: Which is more efficient at converting wastes, balls or rocks?
<Both are efficient, but live rock has an advantage, IMO, in that it is more flexible in the ways that you can utilize it...>
Will using LR in the sump lower nitrates (lower or no nitrates being preferable all things being equal)?
<It can assist in lowering nitrates..>
Any other benefits of using natural filtration media like LR (does is help buffer water for instance)? Which would you guys use and why? Is the benefit worth the conversion from balls to rock frags?
<As above, I'd be more open to the idea of going without media, and just using live rock in the display, along with a good bed of live sand...Talk about easy...And very natural!>
As always, I much appreciate your thoughts and advice!
J.D. Hill
<Hope that my thoughts are of interest to you, and that they inspire you to research this topic more thoroughly. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Reefs tanks and trickle filters 5/2/04
I hope you folks can clear something up for me. I often see
postings to the effect that trickle filters are bad for reef tanks because they
produce nitrate.
<in some ways this is true>
This doesn't make any sense to me. It seems to me that the
bio-filtration of a trickle filter does not create any nutrients, it only
changes their form.
<correct... but unlike live rock and live sand which can complete the process
with denitrification, trickle filters can only nitrify... and produce lingering
nitrate>
Any nitrate it produces would otherwise have been ammonia or nitrite, which I
believe to be more toxic than nitrate.
<not correct my friend... some organics are used/assimilated directly by reef
invertebrates and do not even enter nitrification by filters. But when such
filters are employed, they are in direct competition with those inverts and filter feeders.
The option here is utilization by the animals... or nitrification by the trickle
filter: hence the "nitrate producing" argument>
So it seems to me that while a trickle filter may not be necessary for a reef
tank, one should not be concerned about it's nitrate production. Am I right?
<nope... but thanks for asking :) Do read more about this popular topic in
our wetwebmedia.com archives. Anthony>
Wet/Dry or Wet Behind the Ears?
Hi Bob,
<Michael here, answering his first question, I'm not nervous, I swear!>
I am new to the wet/dry filter setup.
<My personal type favorite filter for fish only systems>
I currently have a 240 gallon tank (freshwater) and would like to get a wet/dry filter. Oh, the tank has a built-in overflow box in the center and a bulkhead in the back? Need advice on pump selection, media and avoiding the flood. Any other advice would be appreciated.
<I have had good luck with Amiracle wet\dries in the past and recommend them. They also come with all necessary tubing for connecting to an existing overflow box, and
internal locations for various medias. Should you choose another brand wet\dry, get one with a drip plate rather than a spray bar, as they tend to clog quickly. In a 240 gallon tank you're going to want to turn over the volume 2-4 times an hour, and I'd recommend an external pump for that. Eheim and Iwasaki both make quality external models. As for media, the wet\dry should come with bio balls, but if it comes with any type of bale or floss media, discard it and purchase bio balls. Other types of media trap too much
detritus in my experience. M Maddox> regards, Mark
- DIY Wet/Dry -
Hello Crew!
I just recently found your site and have been having a great time surfing
through it. I am having trouble finding an answer to my questions
though.
I am a BIG advocate to DIY and I am planning to build my own acrylic aquarium,
it will be 6' X 2' X 2' or 2.5' high. Which comes to 180 to 220
gallons. Building the tank itself isn't the problem though, since I
have worked with acrylic before, just not in building aquariums.
I want to also build my own wet/dry system and that is where I have the
questions.
I don't have any place for a sump, since I also built the stand myself (I can't
seem to stop building [smile] ) out of oak and I made so my 75 gallon sits
below. I'm thinking of making a built in system, perhaps like the
commercial versions? I'm considering actually hanging it on the
outside of the tank to save room, since I am also going to build a custom
background out of foam, epoxy, and sand (I did this in a 175 I had to sell when
I moved).
How much bio-media do I actually need and are some systems better than others?
<No preset amount - perhaps as much as you can fit - there is no ideal design
for a wet/dry that I am aware of.> For example, would I be better off with a
series of bio-wheels (I've got an idea how to make these as well, hah, hah)
instead of bio-balls? <Probably six of one, half a dozen of the other - no
clear advantage of one over the other.> If so, how much would be needed?
<As much as possible.> I have several ideas on HOW to do it, I just don't
know how MUCH I will need! <Go nuts.>
Obviously you need some details. It will be freshwater system with
Cichlids, mostly Africans. <Wet/dry may not be your best option then -
wet/dry filters are very, very efficient at producing nitrates... potentially
more than will allow your fish to stay healthy. You might want to consider other
filtration options.> I also already happen to have a Rio 2500 sub pump, which
I hope will be big enough, as well as several Penguin 1100 powerheads as well. I
am trying to figure out the most efficient and easy to maintain system as
possible. <Might be efficient, but perhaps not easy - I see a lot of water
changes in your future.> That is why I wish to utilize a trickle system.
<Consider perhaps something where the bio-media that you choose is submerged
100% of the time, skip the wet/dry action.>
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, thank you, <Well... if you
figuratively pay yourself for your time, you may find you could have just bought
all the right pieces off the shelf... am always alarmed by folks who want to
build their own tanks - do not skimp on materials or figure that one thickness
less than what is recommended will do. More than all that - good luck.>
Jim
<Cheers, J -- >
- Wet/Dry Clarification -
J-
Thank you for your quick response to my questions, but I am confused with some
of your suggestions. I hope you don't mind another battery of
questions. {smile}
Why would a wet/dry system INCREASE the need for water changes? I
know that biological filtration produces nitrates, but they are better for the
fish than the nitrites. <Uhh, not really... nitrates are not toxic as nitrite
and ammonia, but their accumulation to high levels will present as much a
problem as anything else.> By the way, something I didn't include in my
earlier email was that I will also be using mechanical filtration prior to the
bio media, with carbon after the bio. Sorry, I just left that as a
given. <Makes no difference with this part of the discussion... wet/dry
filters produce nitrates in bulk - mechanical filtration, carbon will not
address this issue.>
And why would a totally submerged bio system be better than a wet/dry?
<Because the exposure to oxygen in the air is what makes the wet/dry filter
so efficient at producing nitrates. Submerging the bioballs would counteract the
dry part of the wet/dry filter but still provide a medium for the de-nitrifying
bacteria to live on.> Or are you talking about a De-nitrification Filter?
<No.> I've only recently heard of these and only in reference to saltwater
systems. Do they work in Freshwater? <Have no experience with
this... couldn't tell you.>
And I understand that the more bio filtration the better, but I'm trying to get
an idea of "the norm" so to speak. That way I won't be making it more
complicated than necessary. I'm just trying to get a ball park of the
low end needed. I mean, is it a cubic foot of bio-balls, or 5? <I
am aware of no formula for calculating such things.> I'm simply limited on
space by attaching it to the back of the tank. <All the more reason to
consider live rock.>
One reason I assumed bio-wheels were more efficient than bio-balls was how much
smaller the wheeled versions tended to be for the same size tank. <Do believe
that's what they want you to think, but not certain this is so...> For
example, there is the "Tidepool" wet/dry system. It simply
has one large wheel, as compared to a cubic foot or more of bio-balls.
<Perhaps, but I'd be willing to bet the overall surface area is about the
same.> If the wheels are that much more efficient, it would make sense to go
with the wheels, especially given my space limits. <Uhh... it's still a
wet/dry and in my opinion something to be avoided.>
I appreciate your concerns on DIY, but I enjoy the challenge and it's a labor of
love. And I want it to fit the stand I spent so much time designing
and building. I liked the Prairie Style design so much, I'm making
matching end tables and TV stands. (I guess it's the designer in me). Besides,
I'm limited on how much I can spend and the $ saved means there's that much more
available for buying more fish anyway! Hah ha <Well... do figure out what
your time is worth... what you make at your day job... once you add this time
up, you may find that the price of outright purchase is more worthwhile, warranted,
and with proven design.>
Thank you AGAIN for any help you can give. Have a great day.
Jim
<Cheers, J -- >
- Tide Pool Filter -
Hi' my name is Ryan I just bought a tide pool bio-wheel used and I need
instructions on hooking it up right. Can't seem to get a suction on the back
hanger, without having air bubble in the tube running to both things. <I'm
not sure I follow exactly... "the tube running to both things" - what
does that mean? It seems to me that you might not have the correct means for
getting water out of your tank and into this filter. You should be using an
overflow box if you aren't already - trying to run with filter with a direct
siphon will be a source of great trouble.> Please help if able to do
so. Thanks
Ryan
<Cheers, J -- >
Hair algae from wet/dry 2/5/04
Hello,
I have a 55 gal reef tank that has been set up for about 14 months. I have a wet/dry with one layer of bio-balls and some nylon mesh below about four inches of crushed coral as a medium. I have a
Turboflotor skimmer and currently have mesh bags of carbon, Phosban and Purigen as chemical filtration. Additional mechanical filtration comes from my pre-filter and filter pad on the drip plate. I have about 80 lbs of live rock and 50 lbs of live sand. There is a striped cardinal fish and a royal
Gramma. I also have two banded coral shrimp, two lettuce Nudibranchs, a few
Mithrax, blue leg and scarlet hermits, misc. snails and two Caribbean starfish. There are two ivory corals, two bubbles, a
Galaxea, a pagoda, a cup, a pipe organ, a gorgonian, a long tentacle plate, some
zoanthid polyps, pulsing xenia, three flower anemones, and two yellow tree sponges. The problem is that I have had a hair algae infestation for about the last 6 months. I do water changes of about 10-15 gallons 3 to 4 times a month. I recently removed each individual rock and scrubbed the algae off. I knew this to be a temporary fix, but figured if I stayed on top of the water changes that I would keep nutrient levels low enough that it wouldn't get the upper hand again. It is coming back thick as ever and I don't know what to do next. Water parameters are as follows: Ammonia <0.01 mg/l, Nitrate 1<5 mg/l, Nitrite 0.02<0.05 mg/l, PH 8.2, Alkalinity 9
dKH, sp. grav. 1.024, and temp 80. I am beginning to think that the crushed coral is building up nitrogen that the algae is binding so it is hardly detectable. I would think that the
Phosban is removing any phosphates.
<I agree with your assessment that the algae is taking up the nutrients as fast as they are introduced. See comments below about your filtration set up.>
My question is: Do you think that my filter medium is the primary cause of the problem, and if so what should I do to fix it?
<I do think it is a major contributing factor. The highly aerobic nature of a wet dry favors the accumulation of nitrate, and unless you maintain them meticulously, filter pads accumulate detritus. Detritus in filter pads rots instead of being
re-processed.>
I have a refugium in my garage that I have considered adding to the system. Do you think that my current filtration should be removed altogether and replaced with the refugium?
<I would definitely remove your current mechanical filtration/wet-dry set up. They are not necessary with the amount of live rock you have and are certainly contributing to your problem. When removing the wet/dry, remove each component (filter pads, bio balls, gravel) one at a time, about a week apart so that the bacteria in the live rock can increase to handle the load. While doing this, please monitor water quality and continue water changes. I am a fan of refugia, and it would probably be b
