Re: fighting conch, algal contr., and wet-dry conv. to live sump   9/10/08 Thanks for your prompt response. I re-read some of the algae FAQs as per your suggestion and will continue to follow the recommendations outlined (monitor nutrient control, adequate circulation/aeration, regular RO water changes and filtration/skimmer cleaning, macroalgae cultivation, proper illumination/replacement of lamps, etc.). In your reply, you recommended against adding blue leg hermits, but didn't indicate why. <Am "just" not a fan of using such in general... Even the genera of "reef safe" (generally) ones can be "too picky"> Would you please elaborate further? <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/maintindex.htm the third tray down> In my reading of your BGA/Cyano article, you mentioned that in regards to biological controls of BGA, certain hermit crabs do consume BGA. <Yes... some Calcinus and Clibanarius species particularly can, not always...> Is it the other fish/inverts that present the problem? <Can, yes...> As far as a "clean up crew", what would you recommend, based on my existing livestock? <Read the above citation> I noticed you recommended Zebrasoma tangs and Mithrax crabs (which I currently have), among others, in some of the FAQs. <Yes... appropriate application... in some settings> On a related theme, I've read a number of the emails in the WWM sump FAQ. I'm intrigued about the discussion as to converting a wet/dry filter into a sump/refugium for housing live rock and/or macroalgae, but at the same time I'm a bit leery about making modifications and not doing it right. Attached with this email is a photo of my commercially bought wet/dry filter. You can see that the water enters from above through 2 diffusers (not sure if this is the correct term), pours through a filter pad over a drip tray, past the bio-media balls, then across another sponge into the second chamber that houses an in-sump Berlin skimmer, and finally pumped back into the main tank. Is there a way to keep the mod.s simple? <Mmm, yes...> Is it as easy as removing the bio-media and putting live rock in its place? <Virtually, actually, yes... Better to have "more space" for other items... but a DSB can be fitted under/with the LR> You can see in the photo that the water level in the wet/dry is about 35-40% full...do I raise the water level so the rock would be completely submerged? <Yes, this is best> Should the diffusers and/or drip tray be removed and be replaced with something else? <These can remain; remove the pad> You'd indicated that lighting for a sump containing live rock and/or macroalgae is beneficial. If the filter tray is still there, is there any problem with lighting from the side (instead of from above) that clamps onto the side of the cabinet? <Mmm, no problem... though/but it would be better if there was another separate area to house the algae> I presume from reading some of the prior posts that the LR in the sump can be lit with a simple one-bulb fixture from a home store. Any bulb wattage minimum? <Mmm, tens of watts will do most all that can be here> I also worry that residue from the live rock could clog up the pump that sends water back to the main tank. <Should be screened in a fashion> You can see in the photo that even now, there's residue that's gotten past the pad and second sponge and has settled at the bottom of the sump and in/around the skimmer. <This will surely pass. I would ignore this mulm> On another note, the skimmer rarely froths over the edge into the cup/receptacle, but a good amount of "pasty gunk" - forgive my lack of scientific terminology - accumulates along the inside of the cylinder on which the cup sits. Any thoughts? <Your RedOx is likely low... put in other words, your water quality is mal-influencing this skimmers function... and it may need adjustment... to raise the water level w/in the contact chamber...> Is Red Sea Berlin brand skimmer any good, or if not, what would you suggest? <Is low to middling in functionality> Sorry for the numerous questions that are all over the place. I'm trying to get as much direction as possible in advance by reading prior articles and WWM posts, but much of the info isn't specific enough for me to be comfortable making these changes, and still I feel like I'm a little in over my head. <No worries> Maybe it might be easier to just plant a few Halimeda bushes in the main tank? <Mmm, worth trying, but a "whole different kettle o' fish" compared with the conversion of your wet-dry. I DO encourage you to go forward with this> I have 120W total (four 30W bulbs) of 50/50 lighting in a 125G, is this adequate? <... For?> Thanks again for your patience. <And you for your earnest involvement. BobF>

Swapping Sump with Sump/Refug. 6/25/08
Hey all,
<Hello Chad.>
I have a 55 gal. main tank with an 8Gal sump that houses my skimmer, heater pump and I'm upgrading to a 20 Gal Sump/Refugium. The Refugium is smaller than I wanted (12x10), but I figure something is better than nothing.
<It is, this is a decent size refugium to fit under the typical 55 gal. stand.>
The main reason I wanted to add this was to grow some macro algae in a DSB to control some diatom issues I was having in the main tank, but since then the diatoms have pretty much disappeared.
<The refugium will still be of great benefit.>
So here's my questions. I'm ready to swap the two and was wondering if my process sounds OK. I'll probably empty the contents of the existing sump into the new sump/fug, add the DSB (4" oolitic or fine aragonite) with some clean dead Fiji rock fragments then top it off with new saltwater to get to the operating level that I want, seed it with some sand from the main tank, then do a small water change with the remaining new saltwater and turn everything back on. Alternately I could just fill the new sump/fug with clean salt water and pitch the old sump water. Should I expect any spikes in ammonia/nitrites?
<Be prepared, you may. I would expect nothing of great concern, just be ready with water changes if needed.>
Should I be ready to do another water change in the next few days or will the 2 week schedule be OK?
<Your regular regimen should be sufficient. Just test your levels for the first couple days and be prepared for a water change if need be.>
I figure I'm not really adding/removing any live material, but I will be changing out the filter sponge separating the return pump, which I typically clean every couple of weeks anyway.
<Cleaning it at least once a week will further contribute to better water quality.>
Next when can I add some Chaetomorpha, Nassarius snails and pods?
<Right away if you like, I prefer to wait a week or two myself.>
I'm also not sure my LFS has Chaeto, and I don't want to use Caulerpa after reading about it. Can I order it online without many problems?
<Yes, Chaeto is easy to come by online. Do also check your local clubs, many people give this stuff away by the fistful.>
How much wattage would you recommend for a small 'fuge like this?
<I personally like at least 65W of PowerCompact bulbs. The reason being that you do not want light to be the limiting factor of the macroalgae growth, nutrients in your tank should be for the maximum benefit. Some do use less light with success though, there is no one correct way.>
Finally, I'd like to keep the old sump and possibly plumb it in as a 2nd refugium that I could shut off from the main tank and use as a quarantine when adding new fish. Any idea how I would plumb something like this?
<Many, it depends on the tanks relative orientation. Remember that gravity will dictate where the water flows. If the tank is above the sump it will need to be gravity fed from the tank or pump fed from the sump and then have a gravity return to the sump.>
Would I plumb it directly from the tank overflow then pump it back into the Sump/Refugium or try to pump it out of Sump/Refugium after the skimmer somehow. I'd probably try to grow a mangrove tree in that, would there be issues with a quarantined fish and possibly medication with a mangrove?
<Yes, some will, do not do this. A quarantine tank is best kept entirely separate and dedicated to this purpose.>
Thanks for your great site and all your help,
Chad
<Welcome, thank you, Scott V.>

Wet/dry Refugium Conversion 11/28/07
Hello Crew,
<Hello Peter, Scott V. here.>
Of course I have to start out by thanking you in advance for your great site. I currently have 250 gallon FOWLR tank with a drilled overflow (filled w/ bio balls), wet/dry filter, protein skimmer and UV light. Nitrates normal range is 20 to 40. I would like convert this filtration system to a refugium. I do not have enough room under my tank for both the wet/dry and refugium. I found a good deal on a refugium identical to the CPR Aquafuge Pro, seems the only difference is that it is less expensive and larger approximately 45 gallon capacity. I’m thinking of filling with ecosystem’s miracle mud and anything else you can suggest. The first chamber would house a protein skimmer.
The bio load consists of a Clown trigger 2 ½ inches, Humu Humu trigger 2 inches, 2 inch purple tang, 3 small under inch damsels, 4 inch regal tang and a 2 foot ribbon eel. All very healthy. Will be adding more.
My questions are:
1. Will I have problems with biological filtration in the beginning? Also, once broken in will this type of setup be efficient for my size tank or would you suggest something different.
<You shouldn’t with sufficient live rock in your tank. Your bioload is fairly low for your sized tank (your fish are relatively small). If this concerns you, remove the bioballs in stages, giving a few days in between. I think the setup you are considering would be great, again assuming you have sufficient live rock.>
2. I do have a lifeguard fluidized bed filter not currently in use that I can use. Should I hook that up to my wet/dry now to build a bacteria colony and then transfer it to the fuge when I install it.
<I wouldn’t, should not be necessary.>
3. Do you think miracle mud is the way to go with this type of setup or would you suggest something other than miracle mud.
<I would personally use a fine (oolitic) aragonite sand in the range of 5-6” to assist lowering the nitrate. >
4. Next the protein skimmer. I have read that a smaller skimmer can be used on setups like this. Is this true? I was thinking about getting the Aqua Medic Turboflotor 1000. It looks like a descent skimmer for the money. Do you think a different skimmer would work better with this setup?
<It can help decrease the load on the skimmer. However, I would actually consider a larger skimmer on this system, you will have a significant load on it as your fish grow. Look at ASM, Aqua C or EuroReef.>
5. What type of lighting – size/ watts is appropriate for this set up?
<Assuming you are growing Caulerpa or Chaetomorpha I would look at a 55/65 watt power compact in the 6000K range. Some use much less light here, but I don’t like the light to be the limiting factor for the algae growth. Some people use more, even to the extent of halides.>
6. Lastly with a refugium should I continue to use the uv light?
<I wouldn’t, they are of little use in my opinion.>
Sorry for the long winded email. I do appreciate any information you can supply me with.
Thanks Again,
Peter
<No problem, it is easier to have one email with many questions to see the whole picture. Sounds like a worth while project. Welcome and good luck with it, Scott V.>

Re: Wet/dry refugium conversion 12/2/07
Hello again,
<Hello Peter.>
Thank you Scott for your speedy response. I have just a few more follow up question to my 1st email.
<OK>
1. What if I don't have a sufficient amount of live rock? Will the refugium be able to handle my growing bio load as I add more fish. With little live rock would a matured fluidized bed filter help?
<The filter will help if you do not have sufficient live rock for your biofiltration. The only concern is their tendency to accumulate detritus, increasing nitrate levels. This is more of a reef concern than FOWLR. You should see more growth in your macro algae as the stocking level and size of your fish increase.>
2. How will having a refugium and no wet/dry affect my oxygen levels?
<Very little. You will still have the overflow itself, first chamber with your protein skimmer and surface area of your refugium to provide gas exchange; as well as CO2/oxygen infusion use by your macro.>
3. Just for clarification. You wrote if I was concerned to remove bio balls in stages. Are you saying remove in stages, then when it is completely empty remove wet/dry and install fuge? I can't have both running at the same time unless I have the fuge outside the cabinet while this process takes place.
<You can put some of the bioballs in the refugium or first chamber and remove them in stages if you wish. They will not be acting as wet/dry but will still provide some biofiltration. Again, with sufficient rock they should not be of any concern, especially if you choose to employ the fluidized bed.>
4. I currently have a return pump in my wet/dry that is 1300gph. Will I be able to use this as the return pump in the fuge?
<Yes, with proper intake screening. Just keep in mind that this is where evaporation will show if you do not have an automated top off system.>
Once again thank you for your help it is much appreciated!
Peter
<You’re welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Re: BTA & Candy Cane Coral Concerns – 09/19/07
Hi Mich,
<Hi Jackie>
Thanks for making me feel more comfortable with my situation.
<Glad I could help.>
I have one last question for you. I have always wanted a refugium. It is difficult to turn a sump into a refugium?
<Not at all. There is plenty of info on our website. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm
And many related links in blue such as these:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugdesignfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugdesfaq2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/RefugDesFAQ3.htm
Can even be as simple as something like this, which is not part of the sump but hangs on the back:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hagenrefugart.htm >
Thanks,
Jackie
<You're quite welcome Jackie, Good luck, hope this helps. Mich>

Filter Question 9/5/07
I have a 120 Gallon Tenecor Tank that came with a wet/dry trickle filter. I have about 75-80 lbs of live rock and about 2-3 inches of livesand. I have a mixture of fish and Invertebrates currently, with very little coral. The Tank has 4) 96w quad SmartPaq (SunPaq). It came with a Berlin skimmer, plumbed from the wet/dry filter (I get a full cup every 1-2 wks). The unit has been running for about a year, I do my water changes and regular maint. I cannot seem to keep my Algae under control. I get a brownish red powder and a dark green algae. I have been reading thru your FAQ's and I am confused over a couple of things. 1. Should I convert the wet/dry to a sump?
<You can, but it is not going to get rid of the algae. That is a separate issue to address.>
If so, what are the proper steps ?
<Remove a few bio-balls each week until you have none.>
2. I have a Fluval 304, that was on another tank. Would it be beneficial to plumb it into my Tenecor tank?
<It would be beneficial to use this and use Chemi-Pure in the filter. This would help much in removing dissolved waste which is leading to your algae problem. Do read here on algae control.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm James (Salty Dog)>

Wet-Dry Conversion...and Fun With Flow Rates!   6/24/07
Hi WWM crew,
<Hey there! Scott F. in today>
First let me say that I love the site.
<Glad to hear that! We certainly enjoying working on it!>
Tank specifics- 46 Gallon Bowfront, 192Watts 50/50 lighting, Pro Clear Aquatics Pro 75 Gallon Wet/Dry, QuietOne
3000 (approx. 500 GPH at tank height) pumping through an SCWD to either back corner of the tank, Hydor Koralia 3 (850 GPH - a lot of circulation for this tank, I know) pumping water from the back center to the front center of the bow, small mini powerhead blowing in the back for a little extra circulation, inline heater.
<Sounds nice>
Substrate- 1 3/4" crushed coral topped with 1/2" AragAlive
Livestock- 80+ pounds of live rock, assorted snails and hermits, 1 Emerald crab, 2 Peppermint Shrimp, 1 Abalone, 1 Lettuce Nudibranch, 1 Tongan Conch, 1 Purple Firefish - 2 1/2", 3 Blue Chromis - 1" to 1 1/2" each, 1 Black Blenny - 3", 1 Royal Gramma - 1 1/2", and 1 Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (has come out to be seen only once since being added to tank).
<A very nice mix of fishes for this sized aquarium!>
Water - Ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 0, Nitrate is around 20, Salinity is 1.023, and pH is 8.4
<Sounds fine...Could work on that nitrate level, though...Perhaps yanking the biomedia in the wet-dry would help..>
I am planning to add a Flame Angel, but I was wondering if the tank could handle a mated pair.
<Hmm...I would be a bit hesitant to place a Flame Angel- let alone, two of them-in an aquarium of this size, and with this type of population. These fishes need a bit more room, IMO- and can be a bit aggressive in close quarters. Perhaps one (and I said "one") of the "Dwarf Dwarf" Angels, like C. fisheri, would be more appropriate.>
I know you have to keep the dwarf angels separated in anything less than a 70 but was not sure if that applied to mates.
<Even with a mated pair, in this aquarium, it's more of an issue of physical space.>
Other than perhaps starting to grow a few small coral frags I am not planning any other livestock changes. The livestock (except for snails and crabs) was all recently placed after adding 36 pounds of live rock and re-cycling the tank.
<Sounds like a plan. Note that your coral frags may be nipped at by the Angelfish..>
Wet dry info - http://www.proclearaquatics.com/Instructions/Pro%2075/Pro%2075%20fig-2%201-28-05.pdf
After reading a lot about replacing the BioBalls to deal with the Nitrate problem I am very interested in doing so, but I do not want to simply remove them. My plan is to take out the trays and balls (I would remove 1/3 of the balls each week) and place an acrylic baffle to block the bottom opening between chamber 2 and 3.
<That's fine.>
here are overflow holes already drilled at the top of chamber 2 which would turn chamber 2 into a constant height chamber like chamber 1 which holds the skimmer. I have a couple of questions about this setup:
1. The Wet/Dry is rated for 300 GPH so I know I am already pushing more water through than is intended although I have not seen any problems. Do you think this is a problem and would removing the trickle mechanism and replacing it with a refugium make it better?
<No need to blast water through a sump. Honestly, I like a slow flow through the sump. This low flow allows more contact time for nutrient laden system water to work through the skimmer and/or any chemical filtration media that you have in the sump.>
2. I know refugiums are supposed to have a much slower flow rate than the 500 GPH the pump will be cycling through the sump, will this be a problem?
<I'd slow it down all around. Remember, the references to "flow rates" (ie; 20x-40x/ hour) that you hear so much about in reef keeping really refer to circulation rate within the display itself, not through the sump. GO slow through the sump/refugium.>
3. Do I need to add some kind of baffle in chamber 3 (i.e. to prevent bubbles from entering the pump) or can the overflow spill directly into the chamber and on top of the pump?
<You'll have to see, but a baffle of some sort is probably going to be needed.>
4.If the refugium will work, what should I place in it- add a lamp and fill it with some kind of macroalgae? Fill the bottom with a deep bed of live sand or crushed live rock with or w/o a light? Sand bed with some creatures? Mud setup?
<If it were me, I'd keep it really simple and just float some Chaetomorpha macroalgae in there and run a cheap compact fluorescent fixture (that you can get from any hardware store) over the section containing the macroalgae. Run the light on a "reverse" schedule from your main display, harvest the Chaetomorpha regularly, and you'll acheive a nice pH stability and nutrient export. This macroalgae has a great reputation for being a nice place for amphipods and other creatures to live and multiply within its fronds- another bonus!>
I also just bought a chiller (no air conditioning to keep the fish cool), it supports a flow rate of only 100-160 GPH so my plan was to run a small pump in chamber 1 (under the skimmer column) with 1/2" flexible pipe running into the chiller and back into the sump. Does this seem reasonable?
<Yes. A dedicated chiller pump is always a nice idea. Use a ball valve so that you can dial down the flow from the pump if necessary to achieve a proper cooling benefit.>
Would the added circulation as a result in chamber 1 improve the operation of the protein skimmer?
<Well, this is not really "circulation". You're pulling out water from tis section, running it through the chiller, then returning it to the display, right?>
Pulling water down in the chamber rather than having it immediately flow into chamber 2.
Thanks so much for the advice.
Samuel
<Glad to be of service! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Heater in CPR BakPak 2r+ Return 2/27/07
Hello!
<Hi>
  First off, let me join the scores of others that have complimented you on your site.
<Thanks.>   
I have read the FAQ's for hours but am unable to find an answer to this question.  As I have grown up being told there are no dumb questions, I'll ask it. . . <Fire away.>
Do you see any problem, either with skimmer efficiency, overflow, overheating, etc. with putting my submersible heater in the return chamber o my CPR BakPak skimmer?
Thanks for taking the time to help with this question, and for all the kernels of wisdom I have gleaned from reading the FAQ's.
-Kris
<Have seen this done and seems to work fine.  It does make me a little nervous though, if the skimmer pump dies could be big problems.>
<Chris>

Wet Dry mod.  - 1/18/07
I really appreciate the insight into the situation. Thank you.
<Anytime, Jason. Is what we're here for.>
On another note this came to me. As I said, I have a wet/dry filter with most of the bio balls removed from it as to stay away from any nitrate spikes or anything like that. I'd like to get rid of the rest. Should I gradually replace the balls with live rock in the sump in their stead? I mean the only place for the rock would be directly in the path of the drip plate of the filter.
<Can the drip plate be removed, to access an area that is always submersed? If so, then this is certainly a good idea.>
I just take notice of many saying if you plan on keeping a reef not to use a wet/dry unless you remove the plastic media. What are your thoughts?
<My thoughts are that you're already aware of the potential downfall of bioballs in a reef aquarium, indicated by the fact that you've already removed a large portion. The downfall of the wet/dry media stems from people not maintaining and rinsing their bioballs (in discarded tank water, of course!) regularly, which I get the impression you are doing. All will likely be fine if you continue your current path, though you may end up finding more benefit from the live rock addition. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>

Refugium Add on / Conversion  - 11/02/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a Wet Dry filter now on an 80 gal tank with 50lbs of live rock. ( I know I need to add 30 lbs more and have my old hair ridden stuff in a tank hopefully re-curing now)  I have recently set up the system after replacing the frame of the tank which had broken.  I had, in the past, a huge problem with hair algae.  In efforts to not repeat this, I have read a lot about the benefits of a refugium to help consume the nitrates that feed the evil hair algae.  My sump is a wet dry with a 12 x 12 chamber dedicated to bio balls and another 12 x 12 chamber that houses the pump and protein skimmer.  I have a hang on the back overflow system with one 1" drain line as the tank is not "reef ready".
<Heard, seen this... responded as such>
I have no desire to place a filter in the room outside of the tank area and have about 15 x 12 footprint left under the tank that can house a fuge.  I could do one of three things...
1)  get a hang on the back refugium, but these seem costly and only hold about 6 gallons.  I am also concerned that the 40lbs additional weight is not good for the frame of the glass aquarium and reaching the thing for maintenance will require a ladder.
<Agreed>
2)  Move my skimmer and pump to a separate vessel next to the wet dry and convert the wet dry to a refugium.  If I do this, I would gain the 12x 12 area that currently houses the pump and skimmer as a fuge area and would have to eliminate 50% of the bio balls as they would be submerged.  I could have it about  10 inches deep before I would risk overflow issues in a power outage.  This seems good, but the flow rate would not be controlled through the refugium very well since the this controls the total flow rate of my system.
<One way... better than 1)>
3)  I could add a refugium next to my wet dry and leave the wet dry as is.  This way I could pump water from the wet dry to the fuge tank and gravity drain it back to the sump.  This leaves my other filter intact and lets me control the flow to the refugium.  This seems well and good, but I am having trouble finding a 12X12X12 vessel that I can cut a drain hole in.  Should I have one made from acrylic ($$), or can I use a opaque plastic trash can?
<Either one can/will work>
  The later is obviously cheaper, but would the white plastic sides cause a problem with light or heat?
<Nope... a bit more algae growth on lighter colored surfaces, but no big deal. I would go with these choices in the opposite order of their ranking... The third is best... along with removing the bio-balls from the extant wet-dry. Bob Fenner>
I suppose I'd like advice on which of the three solutions is best.  All of them only about 6 gallons on an 80 gallon tank, but I know some is better than none. as well as any advise on   
Regards
Russell

Wet/Dry Conversion 10/12/06
Want fish and coral mix. <Ok>
I have a 75 gallon tank with 70 lbs of live rock along with live sand.
If I remove the bio balls from the wet/dry can I just go with the live rock in the display?  If you say I should put rock in the sump, can I just put more rock in the display tank and if so, how much more???
Thanks
<As long as you remove the bio-ball slowly to allow the LR to assume their role you should be fine.  As far as having enough LR it depends, if it is fairly porous you should be fine, if dense I would add maybe 10 more pounds if you have room for it.  Can be added to either the tank or wet/dry as long as it is submerged.>
<Chris>

Wet Dry, bio-media - 2/21/2006
Hey Bob & WWM crew,
From:  Johnny The Nubie
     You guys are great and I learned a lot in the past month, But a little confused about The removing of the bio Ball thing. Yes, I've been looking through about 150 FAQ'S if not more and I get a little piece of the answer or you refer them back to the FAQ'S  which still have trouble finding the right answer { which you should or you would be repeating yourself a hundred times a day and I am a believer in doing your homework}.
<Ah, good>
But I really need some direct answer's to a few questions and would really appreciate it if you would help.  Here it goes, I have a 90 gallon reef ready tank [will do fish / live rock first ] waiting for the stand [ being made, should have it tomorrow] I have 100 pounds of sand waiting, 60 lbs dead / 40 lbs live. I have 45 pounds of base rock and plan on ordering 45/50 of live rock from Walt smith. I'm using RO/DI water [90 gallons in containers that has been ageing for two weeks with power heads and air stone in each].
     I have a pro clear 150 wet and dry filter [bio balls] with built in skimmer. should I leave the bio balls in while I cure my rock or just take them out from the beginning and put some of the live rock in it's place in the [which will be a sump] wet/dry, and cure the whole tank like that.
<Up to you. I'd leave out from the get-go>
do I need to put a light underneath if I put live rock instead of bio balls?
<I would, yes>
should I take out the plastic grating and let the rock sit on the bottom of the wet/dry or sit the rock on the grating?
<Either way>
The guy at my LFS also sold me  a phos reactor with a can of Phosban [150g ] do I need to use this for phosphates or should I use it with different media like carbon or something else?
<... up to you>
should I hook the phos reactor up at start up of my tank or wait a while and with what media? I have more questions But don't want to take up too much of your time, you guy's/girl's are loaded up as it is with this stuff.
<Set up w/o and run for a while...>
     I really appreciate all you do for us newbie's and advance fish keeper's and I'm hooked on your site!!
Thanks for all / any help you can give
John
<More fun to come! Bob Fenner>

Wet-dry to refugium conversion   5/28/06
Is it possible to convert a wet/dry trickle filter (the ones with bio balls) to a refugium without doing plumbing or drilling?
<Yes>
I have been reading for hours on your site, I can't seem to find a picture or drawing of my filter.
Thank you for such information,
Julie
<An "over the side" intake (that will have to be primed/filled with water) can be fitted to an external pump intake, or a submersible pump used to return water to the main tank... The "compartmentalization of the insides", choices of components, lay-out are up to you. Bob Fenner>

- Refugium vs. wet dry filter 6/25/06 -
Good Morning! <Good morning.> Thank you for providing all this wonderful information. This site and your books have saved me a lot of headache. However, despite all of the reading I have done I still have a question I can not seem to find a clear answer on. I currently have a 30 gal reef and fish tank set up in our small apartment. I currently have the system running on a12 gal trickle/ bioball sump (wet/ dry filter/ (Pro Clear Aquatic System). The tank has been running for about two years now and every thing is in check except the nitrate.  I have decided to put in a refugium to help solve this problem in addition to all the other benefits the refugium seems to offer. To make a long story short, instead of drilling and changing the sump to convert (Husband did not like that idea, and I am going to pick my battles) I ordered a 12 gal refugium. Do you think I should keep the wet dry running along with the refugium or do you think the refugium is enough? <If you have room, I'd keep them both running until the refugium is really kicking, otherwise you may go some time without biological filtration.> If I kept both should I have the tank water run into the wet/dry first or the refugium? <Probably wet/dry first.>
Thank,
Carrie
<Cheers, J -- >

Filters...Wet/Dry To Ecosystem   8/3/06
Greetings and thanks for all of the great info.
<You're welcome, Paul.>
After an exhaustive search I am unable to find any info on this question. I have a 90 Gallon tank with appropriately sized wet/dry filter (my mistake) with skimmer  and I can not seem to get my nitrates down, currently 20ppm. I am changing 20 percent of the water every two weeks. Inhabitants include Hepatus Tang, 6 Green Chromis, Lawnmower Blenny, Royal Gramma, Cleaner Shrimp and False Perc Clown. Mushrooms, Xenia, Green Starbursts round out the crowd which all seem to be doing well presently. I have 90 lbs live rock and a shallow sand bed.
When I started this venture I intended FOWLR but now want to establish a reef. Tell me if this plan sounds ok. I intend to remove the wet/dry using
the bioballs from it in the Ecosystem filter in place of the ones that it comes with.
<No need to do this.  Would not use any bioballs in the Ecosystem. See comment below.>
I will have new water premixed to replace the content of the wet dry taken out at the change. At this point the skimmer will obliviously be
gone also. Am I likely to have an ammonia problem with this approach?
<Should not.>
Am I missing something that will harm my friends?
<If you have no live rock, then you should use the old bio-balls until the Ecosystem gets seeded, then I'd remove them.>
I have read that an undersized skimmer is appropriate to use with this system and I am considering an Aqua C Remora.
<Would be a good choice.  You may also consider one of the Ecosystems with built in protein skimming.>
Your hard work on this site is greatly appreciated.
<Thank you, James (Salty Dog)>
Paul Powell

-Wet dry to Refugium-  8/28/06
Hi there;
< Evening>
New to this site and have been looking into changing my wet/dry over to a refugium. I have a 75 gallon tank with about a 20 gallon sump which houses the bio balls (I know get rid of them) and a protein skimmer.
<You do not "have " to remove them, depending on your bioload and maintenance regimen of water changes, a wet dry can be a very good filter, just becomes a nitrate factory and most tanks have that issue as it is :)>
I have two options that I am looking at here.
Option one is to take a 20 Gallon long tank, have the overflow from the main tank drain into a compartment with live rock, then baffle the tank from there to allow the water to flow into the DSB and fauna area then pump back to the main tank. I am concerned about this method though because I will have to really slow down the return volume to the main tank to allow the water "dwell" time in the fuge. I thought that a slower water turnover back to the main tank would affect the dissolved oxygen level of the main tank and affect the health of my corals, or would this be a mute point because of the "oxygen" added by the fuge to the water?
<This method works, and while the flow isn't conducive to tons of copepods and other micro fauna going crazy in the higher flow; It will certainly work.  If you want an all in one option this works, and works well,  Vie seen a rate of flow at 500gph through an 18" long sump setup similar, and it runs my friends reef and puffer tank which both share a sump just fine. Your concern for oxygenation is unfounded as well if your skimmer is decent.  a good skimmer will saturate your return water with oxygen and is one of the best gas exchange areas for its total footprint.>
Option two is to keep the current sump in place which houses the wet/dry and add another 10 gallon tank under the stand and make that into the refugium. If I go this route I would split the overflow from the main tank have an open flow to the sump (wet/dry) and a valve on the flow to the refugium so that I can control the water turnover in the fuge. I will run the return of the fuge back to the sump with the wet dry, for return back to the tank.
<This is the method described here on WWM, and one that I know works very well, I think if you can make it leak proof and ensure you know the max GPH you plan to use in the refugium is enough to keep the wet dry siphon working if it uses an overflow type box, or a reliable tank driller to cut you an overflow hole in the tank.  It will guarantee your flow is higher through the sump, and can be fine tuned in the refugium.  Use a t inside down, to ensure that your flow isn't totally bypassing your refugium and you should be a very happy aquarist.>
I really would like to go with option one but my concern is the rate of water return to the main tank being too slow.
Can you please let me know which you think would work best.
Thanks for your help and you guys have a great site here.
<You do as well, I hope that helped.>
<Justin>

Wet/Dry Conversion - 09/29/06
I have been reading the articles on WetWebMedia about removing the bio-balls for wet-dry filters.
<<Okay>>
I'm in the process of removing mine and replacing the space with live rock.
<<Cool>>
The water runs over the live rock; will this work or should all the live rock be under water?
<<Mmm, I would place the live rock in the bottom of the filter where it remains submerged...use the spray/drip tower for chemical media (carbon/Poly-Filter pads)>>
Right now I have the wet dry area split into two parts (side by side).  One half bio-balls the other half live rock.  My aquarium has been setup for only 4 weeks.
<<This tank is still cycling?  You can go ahead and remove/replace all the plastic media now...no need to do this in stages as you would on an established/stocked system>>
29 gallon aquarium
20 lbs of live rock in aquarium (I will be adding more)
8 lbs of live rock in the wet/dry filter
Protein skimmer
Water changes over in the aquarium about 12 times an hour.
Thanks,
Jackie
<<Regards, EricR>>

Should I switch my Wet/Dry with a Refugium?   9/19/06
Bob,
<Chris>
I just want to start out by telling you how helpful your website is, I visit it on a regular basis to keep up on all things saltwater.  My question is in regards to setting up a refugium.  My current filtration includes a Top Fathom Protein Skimmer TF110A and a Jebo Wet/Dry filter that measures 24x12 (it doesn't have the filter balls it has what looks like strips of shredded paper).  I recently downgraded from a 150 gallon tank to a 54 gallon corner tank  and haven't had any major problems except that I am have a hard time keeping the nitrates where they need to be.  My question to you would be would you get rid of the wet/dry and have a refugium only would or would you have both running.
<If only one choice, the refugium, if two, both>
  I really like the idea of the refugium being a place that natural food can grow and flow into my display tank for all of the fish and coral and just wanted to check with you to see what you thought the best option would be.  Also in regards to the contents of the refugium.  I was thinking about placing a large quantity of small pieces of liverock, live sand, and several types of plants for filtration purposes.  Is this what you would use or do you have other suggestions.  Lastly what type of lighting would you use and would you have it on 24/7 or an opposite cycle of the display tank.  Thanks a million
Chris Johnson
<You're sure to enjoy yourself, and gain by reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the fourth "paragraph" down... articles and accumulated FAQs files on... Refugiums. Bob Fenner>

Wet/dries for 300g+ commercial installation 1/24/04
I work in the aquarium svc business, at this point mostly with 4' & 6' glass fish-only aquariums using wet/dries, and decorated with coral skeletons/shells  & artificial decorations.  We generally make our own wet/dries from 20 & 29  gallon aquariums using  PVC, eggcrate & bio-balls.  We have had good success using one Mag 5 or similar pump per standard overflow (All-Glass "Reef Ready" tanks) and with a sump capacity that is about 20% of the size of the tank (so that  evaporation doesn't become much of an issue).
<All sounds quite appropriate.>
We're preparing to handle sales and maintenance of 300-600 gallon acrylic  systems, and I'd like your input on a couple of things:
a) Should we still stick with 20% size wet/dries? It appears that our competition is using smaller ones (re: less expensive), but we haven't maintained any  of the systems they installed so we're not sure how well this works.
<I would consider 20% a minimum.  My greatest concern would be that the sump can handle the volume of water that will flow into it if a pump stops.  As a general rule, I suggest the largest sump that is practical.>
b) Can you recommend a source of inexpensive rigid-sided rectangular tanks (made from plastic?) that we might use instead of glass aquariums to construct the wet/dries?  If we stay with our current wet/dry design and just enlarge it,  in most installations we will probably be looking to make wet/dries with  dimensions similar to 75 & 125 gallon aquariums.  (Anticipating that in some installations the wet/dries will still need to fit under the tank in a stand.)
<Several types of water holding vessels come to mind, including fiberglass, acrylic aquariums, polyethylene tanks (often used in the back of trucks).  An internet search using key words like "water tank" combined with poly, polyethylene, fiberglass, etc., should yield a good starting point of hits.>
c) Any input you can provide concerning the various acrylic tank makers would be helpful.
<I can't really be of much help here in terms of specifics.  The "big boys" of the industry (Tenecor, Sea-Clear, etc.) haven't gotten there by chance.  Just stick with well known companies.  FWIW, your acrylic tank supplier is a great place to check with for sumps.  Adam>

- DIY Wet/Dry -
Hello Crew!
I just recently found your site and have been having a great time surfing through it.  I am having trouble finding an answer to my questions though.
I am a BIG advocate to DIY and I am planning to build my own acrylic aquarium, it will be 6' X 2' X 2' or 2.5' high.  Which comes to 180 to 220 gallons.  Building the tank itself isn't the problem though, since I have worked with acrylic before, just not in building aquariums.
I want to also build my own wet/dry system and that is where I have the questions.
I don't have any place for a sump, since I also built the stand myself (I can't seem to stop building [smile] ) out of oak and I made so my 75 gallon sits below.  I'm thinking of making a built in system, perhaps like the commercial versions?  I'm considering actually hanging it on the outside of the tank to save room, since I am also going to build a custom background out of foam, epoxy, and sand (I did this in a 175 I had to sell when I moved).
How much bio-media do I actually need and are some systems better than others? <No preset amount - perhaps as much as you can fit - there is no ideal design for a wet/dry that I am aware of.> For example, would I be better off with a series of bio-wheels (I've got an idea how to make these as well, hah, hah) instead of bio-balls? <Probably six of one, half a dozen of the other - no clear advantage of one over the other.> If so, how much would be needed? <As much as possible.> I have several ideas on HOW to do it, I just don't know how MUCH I will need! <Go nuts.>
Obviously you need some details.  It will be freshwater system with Cichlids, mostly Africans. <Wet/dry may not be your best option then - wet/dry filters are very, very efficient at producing nitrates... potentially more than will allow your fish to stay healthy. You might want to consider other filtration options.> I also already happen to have a Rio 2500 sub pump, which I hope will be big enough, as well as several Penguin 1100 powerheads as well.  I am trying to figure out the most efficient and easy to maintain system as possible. <Might be efficient, but perhaps not easy - I see a lot of water changes in your future.> That is why I wish to utilize a trickle system. <Consider perhaps something where the bio-media that you choose is submerged 100% of the time, skip the wet/dry action.>
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, thank you, <Well... if you figuratively pay yourself for your time, you may find you could have just bought all the right pieces off the shelf... am always alarmed by folks who want to build their own tanks - do not skimp on materials or figure that one thickness less than what is recommended will do. More than all that - good luck.>
Jim
<Cheers, J -- >

Live Rock vs. Bio Balls in wet/dry filter - The full Grok
Dear Bob & Crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight!>
I'm hoping that you'd be able to shed some light on the highly debated issue of what filter material works best in a wet/dry filter. My system is 175 gallons with about 2" - 3" of fine grain (sugar-sized) aragonite sand, some live rock, but it's mostly a fish tank. I use a sump with a twin pump Euro-Reef skimmer (with ozone). Tank turns over about 9X per hour.
Live Rock - The live rock proponents say to ditch bio balls and fill your wet/dry chamber with live rock fragments because bio balls create nitrate. I'm thinking, well duh, of course bio balls create nitrate ­ as the natural result of the biological filtration process. They say that the bacteria growing inside the rock consumes nitrate. Does this only happen when the rock is submerged, or will this also be true in the oxygen rich air/water exchange area of the wet dry? If only when submerged, would it be beneficial to ONLY pack the submerged portion of the wet dry with rock?
<Personally, I am of the opinion that denitrification will generally take place at a more significant level in rock that is submerged. For this reason, I'd use live rock as a filter adjunct in either a submerged area of my sump, or just in the display itself. I have always been a big fan of ditching all media in a "trickle filter", and just letting the live rock and sand in the display or an attached refugium do the work. Then, the sump is simply the "nerve center" of your water processing system, functioning as a place for chemical filtration media, the skimmer, etc.>
Bio Balls - The bio ball proponents site the ball's superior surface area ­ thereby it's greater capacity for supporting bacteria ­ makes it superior. That the only reason balls create more nitrate (if in fact they do) is because of its superior ability to process ammonia and nitrite.
<Essentially- they are so efficient at fostering bacteria that process ammonia and nitrite that the bacteria which break down nitrate simply cannot multiply fast enough to keep up>
Further, at least monthly water changes need to be performed anyway to replenish nutrients, so nitrate shouldn¹t really be an issue if you keep up with your water changes.
<Nitrate can certainly be managed with frequent small water changes, use of aggressive protein skimming, chemical filtration media, etc., but natural denitrification processes are your best friend, IMO. That's one of the reasons why deep sand beds are a very popular method to help accomplish this>
What I'd like to know is: Which is more efficient at converting wastes, balls or rocks?
<Both are efficient, but live rock has an advantage, IMO, in that it is more flexible in the ways that you can utilize it...>
Will using LR in the sump lower nitrates (lower or no nitrates being preferable all things being equal)?
<It can assist in lowering nitrates..>
Any other benefits of using natural filtration media like LR (does is help buffer water for instance)? Which would you guys use and why? Is the benefit worth the conversion from balls to rock frags?
<As above, I'd be more open to the idea of going without media, and just using live rock in the display, along with a good bed of live sand...Talk about easy...And very natural!>
As always, I much appreciate your thoughts and advice!
J.D. Hill
<Hope that my thoughts are of interest to you, and that they inspire you to research this topic more thoroughly. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> 

Wet Dry Conversion
>>>Greetings, Jim here<<<
First off.. great site!!! very informative.  I have 180G tank, wet/dry/just purchased the AquaC Ev240..yeah!!  approx 75lb LR, small fish bioload, Condy, polyps (not growing). I have read to remove bioballs (nitrate factory) and foam blocks. but here is my concern.  If I remove the bio-balls it's like Niagara falls in the room.  It's been mentioned to add sand & LR rubble to sump (how much?),<<<That's up to you, there is no minimum or maximum but enough to dampen the sound of the water at least<<<< wouldn't adding more live rock to main tank do the same? <<<not if you're trying to reduce noise in the sump>>>  why grow macro algae in sump if it can be grown in tank? (aesthetics?). <<<Pretty much, also some species are invasive and can take over a tank<<<  If I do put sand/LR in sump, lights on 24/7 or dark? <<<no lights needed unless you are growing macros<<< Should I remove drip plate and extend return with PVC w/T fitting down under sump water level so it doesn't crash down and stir up sand? If so, what about gas exchange now?  I can baffle the sump so sand doesn't return to pump returns/skimmer. my goal is zero nitrates-efficient <<<I would go with the baffle idea<<<
filtration/skimming b/c I want to move to corals eventually. I have read pages upon pages but all these little things keep popping up? I already wish I knew then what I know now (i.e.. LFS setup).  I want to do everything right for perfect water/less maintenance...love the hobby. thanks for your help.. and this great site!
>>>Best of luck,
Jim<<<

Converting a wet dry filter into a refugium
I am in the process of planning out a 75 gallon tank for a reef set-up.  I had it set up at one point, but moved and never got to completing the stocking.  Here I am starting from the beginning again.  my question is as follows.  I have a 25 gallon wet-dry trickle filter system with bio-balls.
The system is split into 2 partitions.  The overflow from the tank goes to the filter into a drip tray with pre-filter media.  Then drips into bio-ball chamber.  Then flows into 2nd partition to be pumped back into tank.  What I wanted to do was remove the bio balls.  Replace the bio balls with live bio-rock and make the first chamber into a mini refugium.  Does this make
sense. << Yes, this is very common, and I encourage you to do it. >>  In doing this do I keep the drip tray to drip directly onto rock? << Either way. >>
Do I keep the pre-filter media? << I would probably take it out, since I don't know what it is. >> I would keep the 2nd partition for the
return piece to place the skimmer.  Any help is greatly appreciated. << Removing the drip tray helps because then you can put lights on your refugium for macro algae.  Good luck. >>
Thank You
<<  Blundell  >>

Wet Dry Filter Conversion (Bob's go)
I am in the process of planning out a 75 gallon tank for a reef set-up.  I had it set up at one point, but moved and never got to completing the stocking.  Here I am starting from the beginning again.  my question is as follows.  I have a 25 gallon wet-dry trickle filter system with bio-balls.
The system is split into 2 partitions.  The overflow from the tank goes to the filter into a drip tray with pre-filter media.  Then drips into bio-ball chamber.  Then flows into 2nd partition to be pumped back into tank.  What I wanted to do was remove the bio balls.  Replace the bio balls with live bio-rock and make the first chamber into a mini refugium.  Does this make sense.  In doing this do I keep the drip tray to drip directly onto rock?
<Keep the rock submersed, that is, underwater. Using the drip tray is fine otherwise>
Do I keep the pre-filter media?
<No, give it the heave-ho>
I would keep the 2nd partition for the return piece to place the skimmer.  Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank You
<Glad to proffer my opinion. Bob Fenner>

- Wet/Dry Conversion -
I am in the process of planning out a 75 gallon tank for a reef set-up.  I had it set up at one point, but moved and never got to completing the stocking.  Here I am starting from the beginning again.  my question is as follows.  I have a 25 gallon wet-dry trickle filter system with bio-balls. The system is split into 2 partitions.  The overflow from the tank goes to the filter into a drip tray with pre-filter media.  Then drips into bio-ball chamber.  Then flows into 2nd partition to be pumped back into tank.  What I wanted to do was remove the bio balls.  Replace the bio balls with live bio-rock and make the first chamber into a mini refugium.  Does this make sense. <Sure.> In doing this do I keep the drip tray to drip directly onto rock? <Probably, but you want to make certain the rock is completely submerged, otherwise you'll still have a wet/dry filter with a different type of media.> Do I keep the pre-filter media? <Would be better for the refugium if it were to get raw water, so no to the prefilter.> I would keep the 2nd partition for the return piece to place the skimmer.  Any help is greatly appreciated. <Consider also the possibility of just using another, smaller tank and just toss the entire wet/dry... their design is such that they don't always convert well to other uses.>
Thank You
<Cheers, J -- >

Converting a wet/dry into a refugium
Hello,
Excuse me if the following seems to be as though I don't know what I am talking about.  I currently have a 55 gallon fish only tank that contains 2 filters that hang off the back.  I also have a 75 gallon tank.  This is where my questions are coming in. This tank is a standard 75 gallon with 1 corner built in overflow box.  Under the tank  (in the stand) is a filter.
This is where I may sound as though I don't know what I am talking about.
The overflow tank uses gravity to bring water into this clear rectangular filter.  It drains into the first part of the filter, into a drip tray.
This then drips onto bio balls.  This then flows into another portion of the tank which fills with the water, and is then pumped into the tank.  My question are as follows.  What type of system is this. << It is a sump, and this type is a wet/dry filter, getting its name from the bioballs which are wet and dry. >> Is this a refugium, is it a sump?  Is this a practical set up? << I don't really think so.  I think they are quite outdated.  I would take out the bioballs and fill that area with sand and algae, making it into a refugium. >> If I am to connect a skimmer where would it go? << Probably right where the water is coming into this filter, before the sand and algae, and before it gets pumped back up. >> I am looking into making this a reef tank and would like to know what I need to get this started.  Thank you in advance for your help. << There is a ton of info on refugiums in the Invert book by Calfo and Fenner.  Also, try searching for refugiums online and I'm sure you can see lots of pics of people doing this exact thing. Good luck! >>
Best Regards,
Jason
<<  Blundell   >>

Wet Dry?
Hi, your web site is great!  First I have a wet dry filter with Bio balls on a 75 gallon reef tank. My nitrates are around 30 and from reading some of your articles I guess I should take out the balls slowly. But what should I put in there, Live rock or nothing?
<You have come to the correct conclusion... I would encourage you to remove the bio balls.  This space can be left empty or you could add live rock if you wish, just keep it all submerged.>
If live rock should be in there should a light be on it all day or say 12 hours. I have about 70 pounds of live rock in the tank now.
<You have plenty of rock in your display to support the tank.  If you do choose to add some to the sump, I would recommend 12-16 hrs of light on a schedule opposite that of your display.  Electricity is cheaper at night and lighting the what will now be a refugium opposite the main tank helps stabilize pH.>
Two more questions: Do denitrator reducers work? I was thinking about getting the coil one but heard they plug up.
<Removing the bio balls should solve your nitrate problem. Denitrators do work, but they are fussy to maintain.>
Also how much should a protein skimmer produce in a day? Thank you much.  <Just the right amount!  Seriously though, it is hard to say.  It depends on the skimmer, the stocking level of the tank and other factors.  On my 92 gal tank, I have a Euro-Reef cs6-2 skimmer that produces about a pint of dark chunky skimmate and a thick build up in the neck every three or four days.  HTH.  Best regards.  AdamC>

Converting a wet/dry into a refugium
I need to get some fast advice on my current situation/problem.  I have a 75-US gal FOWLR (only 40 lbs of live rock, currently) and wanted to add a sump/refugium to the system.  My current system is a drilled tank with an overflow to a Tidepool wet/dry w/ BioWheel.  I was planning to overflow the wet/dry to a 10-gal sump w/ refugium and miracle mud (that's the biggest that will fit under the tank and it does have to go under, can't go over) and then use the existing pump that is in the wet/dry to get the water back up to the main tank just by simply moving the pump into the end chamber of the 10-gal sump.  Well, after looking at the diagrams of how my overflow box works that I purchased to bridge the wet/dry to the sump, I realized that the one that I bought won't work b/c it won't reach to the operating water line of the wet/dry.  So, how do I get water from my wet/dry to the sump tank?  Or can I convert the wet/dry open area into a refugium? << Yes, it is very common.  Many people remove the bioballs and just fill that area with live rock and macro algae.  Then add a light on top of it, and you are done. >> I would rather have the 10-gal sump b/c it has more volume of water than the wet/dry (which only has about 5 gal in the open area at operating level).  If I can't use the 10-gal sump, then do I need to put dividers into the wet/dry? << Most wet dry have dividers in them already, but if not, then yes you would want to do so to prevent sand and debris from getting into the pump. >>  I would
think that if it was used open without any dividers, the miracle mudwould be stirred up too much.  Any help on this would be a tremendous help! << Well with live rock in there I wouldn't worry about the mud stirring up.  You can always use a drip plate, which I think most wet/dry's come with. >>
<<  Blundell  >>

Wet/Dry question 3/22/05
Okay, about a month ago I bought a 90 gallon tank from a guy who had it up and running for about 3 years. He has a wet/dry filter attached and protein skimmer. The wet/dry filter has the bio balls and I've been checking all my levels since moving it and they are all great except the nitrates! Sky high!!! Surprise, surprise! 
<This is quite a classic situation!>
Plus starting to get the brown algae and red algae problems. From your site, I've been reading that the bio balls are the problem. So, if I want to go the route that's less maintenance as far as water changes go...... how do I get rid of the bio balls and what do I do instead? Do you get rid of them slowly or yank them all out and then put whatever else in there?? I'm willing to do whatever, but am overwhelmed with all what I'm reading and need some personal direction. Any information would be absolutely wonderful!! Oh, by the way, its a fish only tank. Thanks so much! Kim 
<You will need to replace the biological filtration somehow. My suggestion would be with live rock. After the live rock is cycled and added to the tank, you can begin removing the bioballs at a rate of about 20% per week until they are gone. This will give the live rock time to "pick up the slack". Maintaining alkalinity and calcium at normal levels will also help control the algae, especially in the presence of live rock. Good luck! AdamC.>

Wet/Dry Filter question follow up 3/30/05
Oh, one more question. How do I tell how much live rock I need?
<The general rule is 1-2lb per gallon of tank volume, but I prefer to say about 1/3 of the volume. Better quality rock like Kaelini or Marshall Islands is more porous (so you need less) than Fiji or Caribbean.>
Just what will fit in the wet/dry filter? And, my wet/dry has three compartments. Do they all get rock? Or, just where the bioballs go?? Sorry, and thanks!!
<I would actually put the rock in the display rather than in the sump. It doesn't matter where in the system the rock is placed, it will function the same, so you might as well get the aesthetic benefit of having it in the tank. The wet/dry can be converted to an empty sump, refugium, etc. Best Regards! AdamC.>

Knocking Out Nitrates!
Hi there WWM Crew.
<Hey there! Scott F. here today!> 
Hope you don't mind, but I have a question, despite reading so many of the articles concerning wet/dry filters.
<That's what the site is all about! Ask away!>
I have a 55 gallon tank, with an A-Miracle hang-on wet/dry trickle filter. I'm also using a Whisper dual cartridge filter with carbon. The tank has about 20 lbs of live rock, and the inhabitants (Red Coris Wrasse, Coral Beauty, Algae Blenny, Sebae Clown and a Yellow Tang, with a few snails and a Feather Duster, with some paintbrush macro-algae) all seem to be doing quite well.
<Good to hear!>
I see so many references to the wet/dry filters producing nitrates, but my nitrates are about 20 ppm and have been at that level for about 6 months. My local fish store tested the water for phosphates and told me nothing to worry about. Yet, I keep getting green algae blooms and I'm going crazy trying to clean the tank every week or so.
<Well, wet/dry filters excel at removing ammonia and nitrite, but they do little to keep up with and reduce nitrate, the "end product" of biological filtration. Nitrates and phosphates are a big source of nuisance algae blooms. In a tank with established nutrient export systems (i.e. deep sand beds, etc.), you should achieve nearly undetectable levels of nitrate.>
Lighting is a total of 260 watts (2 x 55 watt blue actinics, one 50/50 40 watt, and 2x 55 watt 10000k bulbs). Initially, I was keeping the lights on about 10 - 12 hours per day. For the past couple of months, I have been keeping them on no more than 6 -8 hours per day, and still, green algae all over.
<Well, light in and of itself is not the cause of nuisance algae. Light and available nutrients are the contributors.>
Would it help to clean the bio balls at this stage (the wet/dry has been up and running well over a year.
<I'd consider ditching the bioballs all together, and just relying on a deep sand bed, live rock, chemical filtration media, (activated carbon/Poly Filter) aggressive protein skimming, quality source water, and frequent small water changes to do the job.>
The built in skimmer rarely works.
<A reliable, productive skimmer really helps. It is your first line of defense against accumulations of dissolved organics. Do consider upgrading to a skimmer that really does the job.>
I use at least 2 filter pads at all times, and I either change one and rinse the other every week, or rinse both weekly.
<Good practice.>
Still green algae blooms. What if I remove the bio balls entirely, and replace them with a good amount of activated carbon?
<I wouldn't use carbon "in place of" bioballs. Rather; I'd use it in addition to any other filtration media/method.>
Would I be better off removing the wet/dry entirely and going with a canister filter and better skimmer?
<Just a better skimmer!>
Or can I simply help solve the problem by pre-treating new water when I do my weekly 10 - 15 % changes, by using a phosphate remover before adding the new water to the tank? 
<These are definitely helpful practices, but should be used in conjunction with other techniques.>
Thanks so much for your help. I'm pulling my hair out with this, and I really don't want to go bald (I'm running out of time).
<Hang in there! Try some of the ideas that I outlined here. Do a little research here on the WWM site and you'll find a wealth of information on this topic! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Thank you so much for the comments. So far, the Urchin is doing a good job!
It's been in for a little over 24 hrs. and about 1/4 of the cup is full. 
<Ah, good>
Please recommend which container(s) I should be considering so I can at least keep my eyes open for a 'good deal'.
<Most anything of size... even "totes" made of polyethylene... these are mentioned over and over on WWM>
Although I don't believe I can trade mine in, I could always put it up for sale on 'craigslist' or something like that. In fact, that's where I got the Urchin for $95. Quite a savings, I thought.
<Yes>
I appreciate your responses so much. I know you must have a ton of email everyday from people like me
<Luckily not too much... a small part of one percent of the tens of thousands of people who peruse the site write in>
and I feel very fortunate that you have so kindly taken the time to respond to my questions. I will try not to take up
any more of your time unless absolutely necessary!
<No worries. I look forward to this interaction. Bob Fenner> 

Conversion of Wet/dry Trickle Filter into a Refugium and Sump
Gentlemen Greetings again - and Thank You.  Its amazing how much progress I have made reading the FAQs/articles and following your advice (My fiancée thinks I am genius).
<Perhaps you are>
As I mentioned previously, I am setting up a 60 gallon FOWLR with 75lbs of Live Rock and 60lbs of Live Sand. I will be using a EuroReef CS1 skimmer, a Rena Filstar XP2 canister filter (chemical & mechanical) and a sump/refugium with a DSB. I will not have a DSB in my main tank because I believe with only 60 gallons I will be to taking too much space from the fish and live rock (Don't laugh!). I will be using about 1-2 inches of Live Sand in the main (an article in FAMA stated that most denitrification occurs in the first couple of inches - my goal here is aesthetic) Water will come into the refugium/sump from the main tank using an overflow box and a drip plate in the wet dry. My goal of having the refugium with a DSB is mainly nitrate reduction.
I would like to convert my wet dry to a refugium (for algae) using a DSB and a sump (to place my Euro Reef and heater). I will be using a AMiracle Maxi-Reef 200 trickle down filter witch has a 12X12 sump area. I would like my DSB to be where the bio balls were originally and I would like to place some Live Rock there. My DSB and main tank sand will be CaribSea Fiji Pink Aragalive and m y return pump will be external and attached to my sump.
My concerns are the following
1) Since the Wet Dry has a wall between the biological area and the sump (and a small opening) I would be restricting the flow of water to my skimmer and return pump . Do I have reason for concern - any ideas?
<This wall can be modified... cut, drilled if this proves problematic.>
2) Even though I will be using the foam filter in the opening between the biological area and the sump I am concerned that sand will come into contact with the skimmer and return pump. Any advice on this?
<Not likely an issue... again, a modification/dam can be inserted if need be>
3) Do I need a plenum for the DSB and if so what is the best type to use for this purpose?
<No need for a plenum>
4) Can I get away with a 4 inch DSB? I plan to use 65 lbs of LR in the main and 10lbs in the refugium - is this a good ratio? Any advice on a better way of creating a DSB in the biological area?
<This will work>
5) Finally, as you have advised I am using a skimmer and powerheads for circulation for curing my Live Rock. Should I be also using a filter for mechanical (foam) with chemical (carbon) or is it unnecessary?
<I would use these if you have them>
A couple of emails ago Bob blessed the general concept of my sump/refugium but I don't think I gave that much detail about the setup and some of my perceived concerns.
Thanks again - My future fish also thank you.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>