Logo
Please visit our Sponsors
FAQs on Controlling Cyano/Blue-Green Algae 19

Related FAQs: Control of Cyano/Blue-Green Algae 1, Cyano Control 2, Cyano Control 3, Cyano Control 4, Cyano Control 5, Cyano Control 6, Cyano Control 7, Cyano Control 8, Cyano Control 9, Cyano Control 10, Cyano Control 11, BGA Control 12, BGA Control 13, BGA Control 14, BGA Control 15, BGA Control 16, BGA Control 17, BGA Control 18, BGA Control 20, & BGA Identification, Algae Control, Marine Algicide Use, Nutrient Limitation, Marine Algae Eaters, Culturing Macro-Algae; Controlling: Red/Encrusting Algae, Green Algae, Brown/Diatom Algae

Related Articles: Blue-Green "Algae"/(Cyanobacteria), Algae Control, Marine Maintenance, Nutrient Control and Export, Marine Scavengers, Snails, Hermit Crabs, Mithrax/Emerald Green Crabs, Sea Urchins, Blennies, Algae Filters, Ctenochaetus/Bristle Mouth Tangs, Zebrasoma/Sailfin Tangs, Skimmers, Skimmer Selection,

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Marine Aquarium Algae Control

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Cyano bacterium... as a poss. factor in corals doing poorly        4/29/15
Hello Crew,
Just finished reviewing the exhaustive FAQ for the day and did not see my issue discussed. Poor coral growth. 88 gal with 25 gal refugium, tank is 28 in tall,
<Deep....>

38 across reef tank light bank 3 T5 bulbs coral sun Actinic 420 and 3 ocean sun 10,000k.
<Do you have access to a PAR or PUR meter? Maybe check w/ your LFS, clubs thereabouts re borrowing>
Have tried 5hrs -9 hrs of light a day. The tank is built in and is exposed on both front and back, no direct sun but lots of
light most days. Water temp 80.4, sp generally 1.024-25, pH 8.25, KH 108, Ca 410 relatively low phosphate and nitrate. Lots of live rock, feed reef energy A&B every other night. The problem is that every coral I put in the tank turns brown or brownish, I like mushrooms and have purchased green, orange, blue but within weeks they all turn brownish. Have enormous growing Frogspawn
<Ahh; this Euphyllia is one factor.... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/carycompfaqs.htm
but is brownish green.
Second problem, I started doing frequent water changes to control my hairy algae and it has been very helpful, but I have developed a Cyano bacterium problem that the local store said was due to too frequent water changes!
<Mmm; other factors really.... DO the reading re BGA, its control on WWM...  easy enough to sort out>
He recommended Red Slime away "safe for inverts, corals fish.
<Can be of use; but... the reading>
Well now I still have red slim but lost an anemone, most of my snails, crabs and a gorgeous large Royal Gramma and a lovely Midas blue eyed blenny all of which seemed to be doing well prior to treatment. I am approaching true frustration.
Please impart some wisdom and help correct this situation.
Dr. Bob
<Do you need help using the search tool, indices? Your answers are all archived; well, speculations and further adventures more like. Do the  reading and write back w/ more specific concerns. Bob Fenner>
Re: Cyano bacterium       4/30/15
Hi Bob,
I have found the appropriate topics and read the comments. I will seriously try and reduce the feeding.
<Mmm; and consider competition, perhaps predation, nutrient export mechanisms....>

Of course it is difficult to know how much is enough, but generally none is falling to the sand or going in the filter
and the fish actively eat as much as they can before it is all gone.
<What foods do you utilize? Am a giant fan nowayears of nutritious pelleted formats (Spectrum, Hikari lines are faves); not so much frozen mashes, flakes....>

Therefore, I do not believe that there severe is overfeeding but It is possible. My light set up was done by the company that installed my system so I believe it is adequate, just hope not too much. Don't want to "burn" the corals. I will remove the Frogs spawn if that is what you suggest.
<Worth trying>
I gather from my reading that you may feel the frogspawn is the cause for none of the other corals maintaining coral?
<Is one large possibility... but more influences here are thus far hidden (not disclosed by our conv., sharing)>
That in effect it is attacking them. My issue is then why is the frogspawn so brownish ?
<Warfare... Allelopathy... goes both ways... a powerful lesson on many levels>
Thanks for your guidance.
Dr. Bob
<Oh! Glad to share Doc. BobF>
Re: Cyano bacterium       4/30/15

Hi Bob,
One last question. Can I place the frogspawn in my refugium or will it release chemicals into the water that will still act or turning the other corals and anemones brown?
<It will release said chemicals; mal-affecting other Cnidarians and possibly more; but won't mesenterially/filament-wise reach out as much>
FYI I exclusively feed frozen mysis(omega-1) and a Spirulina type frozen from Hikari with weekly dried seaweed on a clip
remove after 15-30min anything remaining on clip.
<Again; I'd switch to a pelleted as base, use others ancillarily>
Since I have your attention, do you have an opinion on removing dead/dying snails or their empty shells?
<Use MUCH less snails period. See my opinion/input on WWM re. Do you need a short lesson on how to use the site? See EricR's treatment on where you find to write us. B>
Dr. Bob

Baffled by slime algae nutrients source/Cyanobacteria/Control 3/14/12
Hi crew,
<Hello Lynne>
I am losing my mind and I am hoping you can help me out. I have a long-established FOWLR tank (4 plus years). It is 55 gallons with just shy of 100lbs of Fiji live rock (long time in tank).
I have only 2 fish in the tank (one 6 line wrasse and 1 yellow tang) that are healthy and doing fine. 
I once had a problem with slime algae
<By "slime", are you referring to Cyanobacteria?>
but then it went away for a long time. About 8-9 months ago it came back with a vengeance. So I did the following:
1. I added new substrate to try and increase the sand bed (I would say it is up to 4 inches).
<Won't help.>
2. I added an Aqua C Urchin skimmer to my existing sump that already had an Aqua C EV 120 skimmer in it.
<Should be plenty of quality skimming for a 55 gallon tank.>
3. I reduced feedings dramatically from every day to 3 times per week and eliminated giving flake food, only frozen.
<Do you rinse the frozen food before feeding.  There is much liquid waste in this type food.>
4. I continuously vacuumed out the slime.
None of those things made a difference so I then:
6.Changed and upgraded all of my cartridges (carbon, silica buster, etc, etc) and the RO membrane plus added a TDS monitor to my existing Spectra Pure 5 stage water filter system that I have always used for my tank and refill water.
<Filter pads should be cleaned or changed weekly.>
The tech support Spectra Pure guys said that as long as the TDS monitor reads "0" which it does then I should do a massive water change (about 50%) which I did 3 weeks ago to rule out water as the nutrient source.
<Not necessarily.>
I have since done another 20% water change and the slime keeps coming back after I've vacuumed it out!
<Must go after the source as well.>
I have spent so much more money and time trying to make this problem go away that I am at wits end at this point.
I have only 2 fish that I feed sparingly. I have the best quality water technology can give me, and I have long since cured live rock in the tank with 2 skimmers running so why am I not seeing any improvement??????
<Because you are not addressing the source.  You did not provide any data as to nitrate and phosphate present in your system.  Please do.>
So I need to give it more time? I have read all of your entries from the website on limiting nutrients to cure this problem and I think I have done that but with no results!!
Where can the source nutrients be coming from with so few fish and good quality water???
<In a system four years old, the nutrients are likely coming from the sand bed.  Whenever you change water do you vacuum the sand bed?  You will be quite surprised at what comes out of there.  Have you ever tried Boyd's Chemi-Clean? 
http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/CHEMI-CLEAN.html
You might also want to dose Tropic Marin's Reef Actif which is a easy form of carbon dosing which will absorb nutrients from the system once the bacterial colony is established.  I use this product myself and find that it works very well.  One container will go a long way. http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/TM-24702.html >
Thanks for your time,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Lynne
Re Baffled by slime algae nutrients source/Cyanobacteria/Control 3/14/12

Hello James and thank you for your responses,
<You're welcome Lynne>
I have vacuumed the sand but that doesn't seem to help either.
<It won't if you do not do this with every water change.>
I also have rinsed the food with no luck. I do not have filter pads which need daily changing in my SpectraPure, only cartridges which are brand new.
<Was not referring the RO unit but pre-filter pads in your sump/wet dry filter.>
I did not provide nitrates and phosphates data because I have wasted money on inaccurate and hard to read test kits. I just figured that if I improved the water quality which I did with the new cartridges and additional skimmer than the Cyanobacteria would gradually go away (which it did in the past).
<These readings are important, how will you know if you are correcting the nutrient problem.  Would you drive a car without gauges or just assume everything is fine.>
I also increased the sand bed based on Bob Fenner's recommendations, so who do I believe???
<I believe it would prevent future Cyanobacteria growth on the new sand but I believe this would only be temporary if the nutrient problem was not corrected.  Higher Kelvin temperature lamps will help reduce Cyano growth as well if enough intensity is present.>
I'll try those products you mentioned,  ahh spend, spend, spend more money!
<Is not a hobby for the poor for sure.  If you follow the Chemi-Clean instructions to the letter, you should see positive results and it may require a second application.>
Thanks for your help anyway,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Lynne
Re Baffled by slime algae nutrients source/Cyanobacteria/Control 3/15/12

Thanks Jim for your time!
<Welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Re Baffled by slime algae nutrients source/Cyanobacteria/Control 3/15/12

Jim,
<Lynne>
Sorry to bother you again but since you seem to have experience using the ChemiPure <Chemi-Clean> product I hope you can answer this question.
Since this product has you put 1 drop per gallon of water in your tank,
<Mmm, did they change this product....last time I used it the ingredients were in powder form, not liquid.>
how can I be sure how many drops that is because even though I have a 55 gallon tank, the live rock displaces some water as well as the overflow box in side the tank and there is water in the sump below the tank.
So, in my situation, how many drops would be correct as I would not want to under treat or over-treat??
<The sump would be easy to figure.  Measure the length, width, and actual depth of water, then multiply LxWxH and divide by 231.  This will give you the actual gallons of water in the sump.  As for the tank, you will have to estimate the volume the rock displaces.  James (Salty Dog)>
Lynne
Re Baffled by slime algae nutrients source/Cyanobacteria/Control 3/15/12

James,
<Lynne>
Last question, I promise!
<Promises are often broken. :-)>
I have aragonite fine sand and when I have vacuumed it in the past the sand just gets sucked out with the water. This substrate (CaribAlive) is very expensive and I don't want to replace it monthly after aggressive vacuuming that you've suggested.
<You have to control the water flow out of the siphon with your thumb or by squeezing the tube so a minimal amount of sand is removed.  Does not take long to master.  You will need a gravel cleaning type siphon to do this, tubing will not work.  Take a look here.
http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=JBJ-GL-28&Category_Code=
 And I would not replace the "Alive" sand with the same.  Regular coral sand is fine and will soon be teeming with bacteria/life.>
Do you have any suggestions here to let me know how I can rid the sand of detritus and not vacuuming it all out of my tank during water changes?
<As above.  James (Salty Dog)>
Lynne

Brittle Star and Cyanobacteria 2/23/12
Hello! I recently got a job working in a museum that has a saltwater aquarium. It is a very large, 3 tank system and upon my arrival I noticed they were having a problem with the red slime algae (Cyanobacteria).
<Quite common>
 I perused your website and found out that the light cycle was all wrong (THEY WERE ON 24 hours!!) Once I corrected that, it seems like the algae is not as prolific as before and in the mornings before the light turns on, it is not present. But, it is still there? Any ideas?
<? Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above>
 The lights are LED on an 8 hr cycle, there is a protein skimmer, lots of water movement, specific gravity maintained at about 1.025-1.027, and the Nitrates/Nitrites are at 0ppm. Regular water changes every week and the fish are feed 3x a week. The tank that seems to be doing the best has no soft coral, 2 hermit crabs, a horseshoe crab, sea urchin, 3 small snails, and 3 different fish. It is a part of an algae tank (which we have to show natural filtration)
<Algae scrubbers... rarely work in actual practice. See WWM re...>

 which is separated by grate. Which of these is helping the most? Is it a combination of all of these things? What can I do in the other tanks to help?
<Read where you've been referred... and elsewhere on WWM re Ozone, RedOx>
On a different story, we recently procured a green brittle star and within 2 days, 2 legs went missing (we thought predation from hermit crabs). So we put it in the algae side of the tank and now one more leg has gone missing and there are no predators!! I read through some of your articles and it says they are really sensitive to changing water parameters... Am I killing my brittle star?
<Could be>
Please help! Thanks,
Emily
<Have removed your last name. Do read where you've been referred... some of the concepts will be new to you, but there are simple steps you can take to thwart these pest Monerans. Bob Fenner> 

Dogface Puffer, hlth. 1/8/12
Hi
<Hello>
My Puffer has been a bit weird this week and not sure why.
Hope you can help.
Information as best i can.
Nothing has changed in my FOWLR tank in last 6 months. In or out.
!00 gallon. Oversized Tunze skimmer plus trickle filter.
5 small tankmates.
<Need to know what species>
Puffer about 5 inches. Will be getting larger tank.
Weekly 10% water changes.
Instant Ocean , D&D or Royal nature salts used. (I change every 25kg to vary elements in my other (reef) tank).
Only 2 parameters not perfect are SPG 1.026. I am dropping to 1.024 over next few days.
Nitrates 15
Everything has been stable and fine till last weekend.
Coincidence maybe ?
<Reads like it>
But I went away for 2 days and decided not to feed fish.
<No problem>
First time i have done this but read it`s not a problem.
Normally leave neighbour in charge.
Anyway Puffer instead of being very light grey has darker speckled grey spots. Skin looks a bit like when he has blown up and come down again...A bit wrinkled.
He is also staying in front of powerhead flow.
<... Mmm, a guess here... this fish might have gotten sucked up against the intake...>
Then he might hide away in a cave.
Just doesn't look or act the same.
He has flashed against rocks a few times. Not a lot though and no sign of itch.
He is eating as much as ever and looking for food every time i approach the tank.
No problems with other fish or any in my other tank.
Both tanks running 18 months ish.
I don`t run carbon in tank but i am going to start soon from what i have read this week.
Do you think there is a problem here ?
<Don't know for any certainty... But would ask that you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trupuffdgfaqs.htm
and just try to be patient... Highly likely this issue will resolve of its own. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Gary
Re: Dogface Puffer 1/8/12

Thanks Bob
<Welcome Gar>
Pathogen or parasite has been suggested.
<... I see in your pix that you have a Paracanthurus tang... It would be parasitized way ahead and worse than the Tetraodontid>
I am attaching a before and now photo to see if that could shed any light.
<I can... there is a disturbing amount of Blue Green Algae (reddish in this case) coating the back wall of this system. I would make moves to reduce this. Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above... where you lead yourself>
If so would quarantine and Cuprazin work ?
<I would neither move this fish, nor expose the family to Copper compounds... please read where you were last referred>
Sorry for rushed reply but starting to worry.
Have read lots and will continue to do so where you have suggested.
Regards
Gary
<Ah, good. BobF>
Re: Dogface Puffer

Sorry Bob
Should have added , no actual intakes in tank .
All behind backboard.
Also puffers breathing seems to be getting faster.
Regards
Gary
<The steps to reduce BGA, improve water quality... B>

Re: Dogface Puffer, hlth. concern 1/8/12
Thanks Bob
<Welcome>
Thought same about Regal myself.
Will read up on algae.
The red has been on tank wall since start up but hasn't increased in last 9 months say but have needed a real scrape to remove any so just decided to leave it. Thought no harm as not increasing.
<... not so. Toxic, at times very... ONLY scrape this off when you have a plan to make a very large water change, vacuuming as much out as you can, changing or cleaning all mechanical filter media>
As regards the green algae i have just increased water flow as i had one of my powerheads greatly reduced running a nitrate reactor.
<Oh! Of what sort of make up is this? Might be the or another source of poisoning. What in particular is the feed (chemically)>
The difference since yesterday is great.
Don`t know if this was the problem but will definitely take your advice and do some more reading.
Thanks a lot again Bob
Kind regards
Gary
<And you, B>
Re: Dogface Puffer 1/8/12

Hi Bob
<Big G>
Don`t know alot <no such word> about the reactor.
Just that the level of nitrates in tank is higher than what comes out of reactor.
<Mmm... what do you feed it with... the source of carbon? Is this a liquid prep.? Is it some sort of bead that's in the reactor itself?>
Company in England sells many different types.
This is a link to the one i have. http://www.cleartides.com/page20.htm.
Doesn`t actually say what the media is.
<Mmm, I see that they sell a few types... Sulfur, pellet... You should be able to tell which variety you have... Don't know that the reactor is a culprit... as other, just as sensitive fishes are reported as doing fine>
Read about the algae Bob and have increased water flow.
Think i need to up my lighting too. Only have 2x38w on a 100 gallon tank.
Been told on 3 forums this is fine on FOWLR but obviously not.
<Depends on what you're trying to do... For just barely lighting photosynthetic life on your rock this should be fine>
Hope my puffer recovers (still eating today). Do i just leave him and hope time (and water) heals ?
<Is what I would do yes>
And lastly how soon do i need to scrape algae from tank ?
<... better again for you to read, come to understand the several approaches to BGA control... develop and incorporate a several-approach plan>
Bit apprehensive about this job. Will it die off in time if left ?
<Mmm, more likely your livestock will die off first>
Thanks a lot for help Bob. Think you`ve hit nail on the head with water quality. Was being sent down a few wrong roads methinks.
Regards
Gary
<Review our prev. emails... READ... understand, then act. BobF>
Re: Dogface Puffer 1/10/12

Hi Bob
Just a quick update.
Puffer still eating as normal<ly> but flashing and blinking continues.
Probably a bit more lively too.
News on the nitrate reactor which i had stopped running before to increase flow and when started again there was a slight ammonia smell.
<Trouble...>
I had the outlet running outside of tank for a few pints then returned it.
Have just contacted the maker and he told me it should never be stopped and started again and to flush out the reactors and begin maturing again.
This i have done.
Could this have contributed to problems too ?
<Yes>
Cant see it being good
<Me neither. B>
Regards
Gary
Re: Dogface Puffer, now poss. BGA poisoning in earnest! 1/15/12

Evening Bob
<Geez... the time code above reads as the same time zone (PST) as here... am just ten minutes behind you Gar... 9:35 AM >
I decided to remove all blue green algae on Friday as i think i have improved water conditions re your information page and also think it mainly arrived a long time ago.
<I see>
Basically i scraped the whole back wall of the tank and changed about 20% of the water. Cleaned all filter media and left tank to run.
Another 10% change today and cleaned all filters again.
<Sounds good>
The amount of mess in the water was really bad and i am thinking the tank water has been poisoned.
I am continuing the water changing and filter cleaning regime as fast as i can.
Should i do anything Else ?
<Run a good deal of new activated carbon, and/or PolyFilter>
Add anything to water to treat fish ?
<Not I>
I had a dead Damsel this morning and a small clown not eating along with puffer.
Regal Tang is perfect.
Would you add erythromycin at all now as algae has 95% gone (few very small patches left).
<I would not. Am not a fan in general of chemical algicides... for all the reasons posted on WWM>
Grateful for any advice.
Thanks
Gary
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Perhaps BGA poisoning 1/15/12

Thanks for quick reply Bob
Think we`re in agreement over chemicals.
Ran a new bag of Rowa carbon from Thursday but threw it away with today's changes as i thought this too could now be holding poisons in the sock.
Now the tank is clear of loose algae i will replace it tonight and carry on with water changes etc... till fish tell me otherwise.
Thanks again Bob.
Just hope the fish make it.
<Me too>
Regards
Gary
<And you, B>

BGA linked to small hair in water column? 10/29/11
Aloha,
<And you>
Thank you for all that is Wet Web Media. I just finished reading most of the FAQ's on BGA and am working on correcting the mess that is all over this acrylic 210 gallon FOT that I just got put in charge of. The tank is currently being dosed with .23ppm Cu+ indefinitely (something I plan to get rid of) as well. This is certainly not helping with the Cyano and I actually think it was one of the biggest factors for this explosion.
<A possibility>
The other day as I was staring into the water column of my tank I noticed a ton of little tiny hairs (~1-4mm) floating around in the water. I was wondering if this has anything to do with the Cyano in my tank or if it was something you have heard of before?
<Have seen such in systems; not often related to BGA>
Unfortunately anytime you mention the word "hair" in any aquarium or marine type search you get bombarded by hair algae results and no mention of it actually suspended in the water column.
Thank you very much for your time
Erik
<Easy enough to look at through a microscope... Cyanobacteria threads are definitive... Bob Fenner>

Re: BGA linked to small hair in water column? 10/30/11
Aloha Bob and Crew
Thanks for taking a look at these. The "unknown" named picture (400x) is the structure that I believe to see floating in my water column.
<Thank you for this... does appear to be some type of Cyano to me>
It is the only thing of size within the sample that I took. Most of the similar structures are smaller and do not branch as much. I also scraped a bit of Cyano and took another picture (all by using my cell phone and scope).
Any idea what this could be as it doesn't look like Cyano to me?
<I do think this is BGA and that it is modifying the environment (poisoning other life) to advance it's own extension in time and space... You need to do "something drastic" to "re-set" the dynamics here... to favour other photosynthates (perhaps add a bunch of another, desirable species). BobF>
Mahalo
Erik

Algae Battle Since Sept 19th 10/16/11
Hi Guys,
<Kev>
I've spend lots of time on your site researching a rampant algae outbreak in my tank. I'm firmly entrenched fighting a battle against what I think is red cyanobacteria. (Rust colored mat covering rocks with bubbles in higher areas of tank. Brown strings coming off rocks in some areas recently).
<I do agree>
I've had this problem since September 19th. Since then, I have been doing 25% water changes every other day, scrubbing the rocks with the end of my siphon hose to remove as much of the red stuff as possible each time. The following day the stuff is back, and my vicious cycle of making water and changing it continues.
I think I've done everything you guys have suggested in previous posts to get rid of this stuff. The only thing I have not done yet is shut the lights off, only because I am concerned for the survival of the inverts. I have a quarantine tank set up, 12g JBJ Nano, but I think the lighting in insufficient for the clams. (2x 24w. 10000K and 2x 24w. actinic fluorescent). LFS suggested that I use Ultra Life Red Slime Remover, but I have not used it because I prefer to use natural methods of correction rather than adding chemicals.
<Am not a fan of chemical algicides>
Since I set up my tank in 2009 I always purchased RO water from my LFS with no issues. I recently purchased a TDS meter to test the water from the LFS and found that they were selling me RO water with TDS of 120+ppm.
<Uhh, this is NOT RO>
I decided to install a SpectraPure Maxcap 90 gpd RO/DI system in August for my home so I could be sure of the water quality. My RO/DI system produces nice "clean" water with 0 TDS, confirmed by an in-line TDS meter as well as cross-checking with my handheld TDS meter.
I usually don¹t have any problems with the tank. I have had a few patches of diatom that cleared up on their own, and a minimal amount of flatworms that I siphon off as I see them, but usually I don¹t have any algae on the rocks at all. The only correlation I can see is that this problem started right after I switched to the "clean" RO/DI water. Is this just a cycle that will resolve itself as the tank is (still) getting used to the new water?
<Might>
If I continue my obsessive water changes will there ever be any relief?
<I'd look into placing a good-sized DSB here, possibly measure RedOx... utilize ozone>
Are my frequent water changes just prolonging the problem? Have I misdiagnosed the problem? I'm very frustrated at this point.
<Understandably so. Do search WWM re these tools>
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Kevin
66 gallon Res Sea Max 250, (3x T5 actinic, 3x T5 10,000K lights, protein skimmer, Chemipure carbon,) 85 lb. live rock
2 clownfish, purple tang, hippo tang, cardinal fish, aurora goby, assorted snails and crabs (all in tank for 1+years; healthy)
Brain coral, bubble tipped anemone, assorted mushrooms, 2 sun corals, torch coral, crocea clam, derasa clam, maxima clam (all in tank for 1+years; healthy and growing)
Feeding since Sept. 19th: Monday: frozen food (only what is consumed in a few minutes), Tuesday: nothing, Wednesday: clip marine algae (what is not eaten in a few hours is removed, large floating chunks removed), Thursday: nothing, Friday: frozen food, and the pattern continues anemone fed every 4 days with small piece of shrimp, sun corals are removed from tank for feeding with mysis every 4 days
Water changes pre-problem: 25% every week
Current parameters:
Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, Phosphates - 0
Alkalinity ­ 7dKH
Calcium ­ 320
<A little low... Magnesium?>
pH ­ 8.2
Silicates - 0
Salinity 1.025 (Instant Ocean Reef Crystals)
Temperature: 78
Lights on 11 hours/day
<Bob Fenner>

Cyano Troubles! 9/13/2011
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a mature 55 gallon with only 3 fish (yellow tang, clownfish, 6 line wrasse) and about 50 lbs of live rock (not new rock). I have some Zoanthids on the rock. I also have about an inch of sand on the bottom.
I've had brown/black slime Cyano in my tank for many months and I'm having trouble eliminating it. Here's what I have done in the past 8 weeks to try and rid my tank of this slime:
1. I added an Aqua C Urchin skimmer to my existing sump which has always had an Aqua C EV 120 skimmer.
<A good unit>
2. I added an additional powerhead in the tank to increase water circulation.
<Also of benefit>
3. I have reduced feeding my fish to only one time per week being careful to rinse the frozen food cubes and using only one cube.
<Excellent>
4. I changed all of my 4 cartridges plus the RO cylinder in my 5 stage SpectraPure filter.
<All righty>
5. I have changed 10 gallons of water a week for the last 8 weeks using the water made from the SpectraPure.
<Keep doing so... I'd raise to 20%>
6. I vacuum up the slime and clean the acrylic walls once a week with the water changes.
<Good>
I have done all of the above with absolutely no reduction in the Cyano.
<Once these monerans get established/entrenched, they can be very hard to control... BGA actually modifies the water quality to suit only itself...>
I also recently ordered 20 more lbs of Fiji live rock which I will put into the tank once it is cured to help in the biological filtration.
<Okay... am presently out in Fiji, w/ roomie Walt Smith keying to my right...>
Do you have any idea why I am having no success after doing all of these things? I hate to keep spending money with no results!
<Understandable/understood. I would definitely keep investigating, and at least increase (substantially) the depth of your substrate (make an in-lace DSB... But do read (or re-read) here: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above, and where you lead yourself.... Don't give up this "battle"... you can/will win. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Lynne

Re: Additional carbon use 8/6/11
Dear Mr. Fenner,
Thank you for your input regarding my BGA problem. I have read your article again and am really left scratching my head. I've done or changed pretty much everything that I read I should do already,
<Perhaps just time going by then...>
with the exception of adding ozone ( too risky for me and my animals), and my phosphates and nitrates are always zero (multiple types and brands of test kits).
<... being taken up by the BGA? Do you culture other purposeful photosynthetic life? You should... Have a denitrating DSB?>
Pretty much all the Cyano that does grow in my tank is limited to a velvet like covering on the rocks and sand. The only way I know how to stop it from growing is by keeping the lights off. No lights, no BGA. When the lights turn on at 2PM, the tank is perfectly clean looking. Not a trace of this golden brown stuff. By 7 or 8PM it's at it's full "coating" for the day and by 9PM it will start to noticeably disappear. By the time the lights go out at 10PM, probably only 40% of it remains. I can't remove this stuff because every time I try to remove it, it ends up poisoning my fish. If I don't remove it , it just keeps growing more and more. I have tried all the commercial Cyano remedies in my previous tanks, over the years, and they have always failed to make a dent in it. A few months ago I set up a quarantine tank, using an old 29 gallon tank that had the Cyano in it when it was in use, over 6 months prior. The tank sat for these 6 months, empty, in a room with a de-humidifier. I re-set it up with 30lbs. of fully cured live rock and only added 2 small Basslets. 2 weeks after I added the fish, the first week diatom bloom was replaced with a total covering of this stuff. I mean this stuff was covering everything like a blanket! No actual "slime" just this velvet. Once again zero nitrates and phosphates. Anyway, I have recently been reading on the internet about how people are having success eradicating Cyano by using a combination of Zeo Bak and Coral Snow.
I was wondering if you have heard anything about these products?
<Am not a big fan>
Best
Wishes, Art S.
<Please re-read all the BGA mat.s archived on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Undying Algae, BGA 6/5/2011 /RMF
Hey Guys,
<Marc>
Second time writing in, last time was about 4 years ago. Your support and recommendations were great then, hence why I'm coming to you again!
I've had a 90g tank (20g sump) setup for about 2 years now. Recently its gone through lots of changes as I just couldn't get my nitrates/phosphates down to reasonable levels. I removed all my bio-balls in the overflow, and removed two large chambers of crushed rock in my sump. This improved things greatly, but parameters were still way out of whack. I then removed lots of rock (I realize now I had way too much) and re-positioned everything for much better flow through the structures.
<Good moves>
I've also been using the vodka method for 3-4 months now with fantastic results. After finishing all this re-work over the past few months, my parameters are as follow:
Temp: 26 C
Salinity: 1.025
Ph: 8.3
Alkalinity: 10 dKH
Calcium: 500
<Too high... see WWM re>
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Phosphate: 0
<... NO NO3, HPO4?>
The tank is 24" deep and running 2 x 250w MH (14k) for 10hrs a day. Tanks isn't too far from a window, so it does get some subsidiary light in the morning before the halides turn-on. Not too much though. The substrate is about 3" deep. I have about 40+ times water flow. Sump pump is 5,000L and 13,000L total output in display. All water comes through a RO filter.
Skimmer running 24/7.
On to the problem, about 6 months ago; Cyano (I think)
<I do too>
was introduced into the tank.
<Is omnipresent...>
The whole tank was regularly covered in it in short time. I was siphoning and scrubbing my rocks to keep it clean weekly. At the time I wasn't too surprised as the parameters were all out of whack. However, I have now got everything in pretty good condition, yet I still have this same algae growth. It appears different now (in fact, before I started making all my changes) and is perhaps 2 different types of algae. I'm just totally at a loss now at what to do and what I have growing in my tank.
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above re BGA, control>
There appears to be a purplish film on the glass, which wipes off with no problem. However, there's also a browner/redder algae growing on the rocks.
This is the stuff that takes over the tank...I'm not sure what either is.
<... requires microscopic examination to be sure, but these are all likely BGA>
My guesses were towards Cyano, diatoms (except they never seem to cycle out) and Dinoflagellates. I've attached some pics which show the brown and purple growths, please let me know your thoughts.
Regards,
Marc Steeb
<Write back after reading if you have further questions. Bob Fenner>
Undying Algae/Algae Control/Vodka Dosing 6/5/2011 /JamesG
Hey Guys,
<Marc>
Second time writing in, last time was about 4 years ago. Your support and recommendations were great then, hence why I'm coming to you again!
<Great!>
I've had a 90g tank (20g sump) setup for about 2 years now. Recently its gone through lots of changes as I just couldn't get my nitrates/phosphates down to reasonable levels. I removed all my bio-balls in the overflow, and removed two large chambers of crushed rock in my sump. This improved things greatly, but parameters were still way out of whack. I then removed lots of rock (I realize now I had way too much) and re-positioned everything for much better flow through the structures. I've also been using the vodka method for 3-4 months now with fantastic results. After finishing all this re-work over the past few months, my parameters are as follow:
Temp: 26 C
Salinity: 1.025
Ph: 8.3
Alkalinity: 10 dKH
<I shoot for 7dKH.>
Calcium: 500
<Too high, dKH problem lie ahead maintaining this level.>
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Phosphate: 0
<Where is you magnesium at?>
The tank is 24" deep and running 2 x 250w MH (14k) for 10hrs a day. Tanks isn't too far from a window, so it does get some subsidiary light in the morning before the halides turn-on. Not too much though. The substrate is about 3" deep. I have about 40+ times water flow. Sump pump is 5,000L and 13,000L total output in display. All water comes through a RO filter.
Skimmer running 24/7.
On to the problem, about 6 months ago; Cyano (I think) was introduced into the tank. The whole tank was regularly covered in it in short time. I was siphoning and scrubbing my rocks to keep it clean weekly. At the time I wasn't too surprised as the parameters were all out of whack. However, I have now got everything in pretty good condition, yet I still have this same algae growth. It appears different now (in fact, before I started making all my changes) and is perhaps 2 different types of algae. I'm just totally at a loss now at what to do and what I have growing in my tank.
There appears to be a purplish film on the glass, which wipes off with no problem. However, there's also a browner/redder algae growing on the rocks.
This is the stuff that takes over the tank...I'm not sure what either is.
My guesses were towards Cyano, diatoms (except they never seem to cycle out) and Dinoflagellates. I've attached some pics which show the brown and purple growths, please let me know your thoughts.
<I'm thinking this may be due to your vodka dosing and is/can be a downside with this method of dosing. Problem with dosing vodka is the rapid production of bacteria within the entire system which in turn feeds algae.
Dry vodka dosing via carbon polymer pellets is a much more desirable method as the bacteria are limited to one area, the reactor. The output from a reactor that is used for dry dosing can be directed toward the skimmer's intake pump which will reduce the surplus bacteria a good deal. Two Little Fishies (Julian Sprung) has a nice inexpensive reactor (35.00) that works very well with the carbon pellets.>
Regards,
<Ditto. James (Salty Dog)>
Marc Steeb


re: Undying Algae, BGA id f', now control 6/5/2011
Thanks for the reply, confirms what I suspect. I'm still a little confused on how to treat this though. I read through the article you recommended and it seems to focus around manual removal and filtration.
<... keep reading... competition, predation... preventative means of nutrient limitation>
If get down to it the recommendation is to control nutrients better. I always thought DOC's and nitrates/phosphates (nutrients) were essentially one in the same.
<One set includes the other, but not vice versa>
Get your nitrates/phosphates down to undetectable and you have little DOC's in the water...?
<The universe is more dynamic... it may well be that the BGA is/are taking up these readily>
With my current testing, nitrate/phosphate are at 0 ... so unless I'm wrong (wouldn't surprise me) DOC's should not be present.
<Guess again>
If I'm wrong, than DOC's need to be removed via another method ... skimming? My current skimmer's performance is rather erratic, to say the least. Perhaps time to upgrade.
<Maybe>
I received a reply from James (Salty Dog) on the previous email in which he proposed the vodka dosing was causing the problem due to overgrowth of bacteria.
<Can>
My vodka dosing has trailed off to a maintenance regime now and definitely has a large part to do with my low nitrates/phosphates. Do you think I should change something with the vodka?
<I suggest you read re on WWM. I would NOT continually use>
Thanks again!
<Welcome. BobF>
Regards,
Marc Steeb

An Assortment 5/16/2011
Hi Crew,
<Hi Sam>
1. I hatch brine shrimp once a week in a jar and use a baster to get them and release into the tank. The problem is getting the shrimp without the shells. I put a light on one side so the hatchlings congregate there and I siphon them out. But if I squeeze the baster incorrectly all goes flying and I have to wait an hour till things settle down I see that there are brine shrimp nets being sold and wondered how they work. Do they let the shrimp through and hold back the shells?
<Nope.>
2. There is a bacteria product called Super Blend. There is a reef group in New York, http://www.manhattanreefs.com, and many there have said that they use this product to help get rid of Cyano. The product makes no such claim. Just wondering if it has been noted in WWM.
<Not that I'm aware of. Is likely that the bacteria are competing with the Cyano for food thus reducing growth rate.>
Another method mentioned there, which I did try, is keeping lights off for 3 days straight. It does work and does not seem to harm the coral.
<It will over time.>
Of course if you haven't solved the source of the problem it will come back but it is a quick and easy way to get rid of it at least for a while.
<Best to control the cause. Ultralife's Red Slime Remover will get rid of it also, but as you mentioned,
if the source isn't controlled, it will just come back.>
3. Does Selcon need to be refrigerated. It doesn't say so but I have had a couple of batches and some seemed to look very different than others and sometimes it gets stringy.
<I keep mine refrigerated and it's best to shake well before using.
James (Salty Dog)>

The Red Demon "Cyano" HELP/Cyano Control 5/5/2011
Hello WWM Crew,
<Hello Brian>
I know you probably heard this about a million times before,
<Not quite that many.>
so I am going to make it a million and one. Thanks so much to all the people of WWM who share their expertise, experience, knowledge and most of all their free time to help everybody in this hobby, and do it just for the love of the hobby.
<You're welcome.>
I stumbled on this site 3 yrs ago by accident and have been reading almost everyday since then. This will be my first question that I am asking and I know you've dealt with this question over and over again and I have read, and read, and then did some more reading on this problem and have adjusted and changed everything that causes red Cyano. I am hoping that if I give you a rundown of all my equipment and husbandry and livestock you will be able to spot something that I am missing. My LFS guy says that I am overstocked and the low oxygen is fueling the Red Cyano. I disagree with him simply because I had basically the same fish in a tank 1/4 the size I have now with not nearly as much equipment and husbandry (since I've been reading FAQ on your site) and I had no problem with Cyano then.
<Low oxygen is one cause of Cyano and this can be due to stagnant areas in your tank. Properly positioned powerheads and the use of a Wavemaker generally eliminates these areas.>
My other LFS guy says that my skimmer is too small for my tank and I should have a stronger one.
<Nutrients are another cause of Cyano and a good efficient skimmer can go a long way in helping to control Cyano.>
I found a used Tunze 9010 on line for a good price so I picked this one up and installed it in my sump. I know the Tunze I bought is working as the guy I bought it from had it in his sump and there was a lot of skimmate from his 180gal. I don't understand the sizing of skimmers. If for example your skimmer is not properly sized shouldn't it be pulling a lot of skimmate out to it's capacity and if the bioload is too heavy it just doesn't pull out anything over the capacity of the skimmer?
<Any size skimmer will pull out dissolved nutrients, what is important in skimmer selection is how much water the skimmer processes per hour, contact time, and size of the bubbles. There are skimmers out there rated for x amount of gallons that actually perform inefficiently when used in their rated tank size. My opinion, bigger is better. I use a skimmer rated for over twice the size of my tank.>
I guess I will start with my equipment.
90gal tank
100lbs Fiji LR
120lbs Caribsea LS
20gal sump
CPR CS102 overflow (I know, the next one will be drilled)
In100 Vertex skimmer (which doesn't seem to produce skimmate the way people talk on your site. I think this might be my problem or I don't have much to skim.)
<I've used this same model for two years and felt it performed very well.
Did you clean the cup/riser tube at least once weekly?>
The Tunze seems to pull out more than the Vertex In100.
<It may be because the Tunze 9010 processes a little over 300gph and is rated for tank sizes up to 260 gallons where the IN100 is rated for tanks up to 100 gallons. You should see some improvement with the use of the Tunze but do not expect overnight results.>
CPR large HOB fuge (5gal) with Chaeto and reverse 12hr lighting cycle
<Refugiums are a plus in controlling Cyano but a five gallon fuge is a little too small for your size tank to have any significant impact on nutrient control.>
Mag 9 return pump
3 x Koralia #4
2 x Koralia #1
1 x Maxi jet 1200
<Mmm, should have plenty of flow here.>
PC lighting 2x65w 10,000k 2x65w 50/50 10,000k/actinic 12hr cycle (just put new ones in March, 26, 2011)
1 x 48" Coralife T5 strip light 2x28w 10,000k 12hr cycle (just put new ones in March,26, 2011)
System flows from overflow to sumps first compartment with only filter floss to catch debris.
<Is the floss replaced weekly?>
From there 2 baffles then to the second compartment which has the Vertex skimmer(now the Tunze) and the intake powerhead for the HOB fuge with a venturi hooked up to the powerhead for oxygen to the HOB fuge. From there 2 more baffles which has a Polyfilter, Purigen, and Phosguard in between baffles and then more poly wool. To the last compartment which has the Mag 9 return pump and the return flow from the HOB fuge. In the tank the Mag 9 return flows from the back corner to the front opposite corner.
<If your sump permits, I'd put the skimmer in the first compartment and the floss in the second.>
The Koralia #4 are on each side of the tank facing the front center glass.
The Maxi jet 1200 is on the back glass at the bottom with a T on the output sending current along the back bottom of the tank. The two Koralia #1 are on the back glass at the bottom corners sending current to the front glass along the sides. The third Koralia #4 right now is on the front glass in the center pointing right at the LR.
My husbandry goes something like this. Once a week I vacuum the sand and clean the glass. I use only Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt. I use a 5 stage ro/di filter with a tds reading of 0. I aerate my ro/di water for 48hrs before salting and add Seachem Marine Buffer. My newly mixed salt water aerates with a Maxi jet 1200 and a heater 24/7 and I aerate for at least 7 days before a water change. Also my DIY auto top off ro/di water is buffered, heated and aerated with a maxi jet 1200 24/7. Currently I am doing two 20gal water changes per week trying to battle the Red Demon. I have stopped all liquid additives since reading your site(you know, things I can't test for) the only additives I use right now are B-Ionic #1/2 if and when needed. Also I have cut down on feeding from once a day to every second day and stopped using garlic, Selcon, Zoe, and Zoecon thinking I was polluting the water. For feeding right now I am using Spectrum pellets, and seaweed sheets on a clip occasionally. I also stopped using frozen mysis figuring I was polluting the water.
<Everything sounds good here.>
My water parameters are always good.
<Water parameters are not necessarily indicative of good water quality.>
Test kits are all Salifert and a refractometer. I also bought an oxygen test kit and after reading up on these kits I found out it's hard to get an accurate reading. With the oxygen test I get a reading of 4ppm which I know is very low so I tested my ro/di water before and after aerating and I only got a reading of 5ppm. My newly mixed salt water after aerating for 7 days I only get a reading of 4ppm same as the tank. My latest attempt was getting a silicate test kit which reads no silicates, and I have started dosing with Kalk to see if that helps, plus I'm keeping the lights off during the day and only using them when I get home for about 5 hrs.
Readings are as follows for water parameters.
temp 78/79
ph 8.2
ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 0 also 0 in my ro/di water
phosphate 0 also 0 in my ro/di water
calcium 400/420
dkH 9.6/10
mg 1250/1300
sg 1.026
So now for my livestock.
1 true Percula 2 1/2" (Amphiprion Percula)
1 Royal Gramma 2 1/2" (Gramma Loreto)
1 Flame Angel 2" (Centropyge Loricula)
1 Pajama Cardinal 2" (Sphaeramia Nematoptera)
1 Yellow Watchman Goby 2 1/2" (Cryptocentrus cinctus)
1 Blue Hippo Tang 3 1/2" (Paracanthurus Hepatus) I know he's been, as B. Fenner calls it "bonsaied" not intentionally but from lack of knowledge and info. when starting this hobby.
<Yes, tank is really too small for the Hippo. And you are borderline on stocking if not overstocked. One needs to keep in mind that fish grow and what was once thought understocked can now overstocked.>
1 Black Brittlestar (Ophiocoma)
1 small leather
1 brain (Trachyphyllia)
1 flower pot (Goniopora)
1 pink tip Anemone (Condylactis)
<Mmm, not good mixing anemones with corals in this volume of water. Mmm, no crabs or snails for clean up?>
I am new to the scientific names so please go easy on me. As for the Goniopora I am not sure if it is one (pic attached) because I've read that they're not easy to keep and usually die but I've had this one for 3 1/2 yrs and I have never fed it or done anything special for it and to me it seems beautiful.
<Pic way too small but does appear to be a Goniopora. Count the tentacles on a polyp, should be 24. This coral is likely doing well because they prefer somewhat less than perfect water in terms of nutrient levels.>
All the fish, coral and anemone above, except for the Pajama Cardinal, Flame Angel and Goniopora I have had for 6 1/2yrs, the Pajama, Flame and Goniopora for 3 1/2yrs. My fish have never been sick, never scratch on the rocks and never had problems with Ich. The day I put the baby Clown into the tank she went right into the Anemone and has been living there for 6 1/2 yrs and will bite me if I put my hand near it. I haven't lost a fish in 6 1/2 years.
<Great!>
So basically that is my whole setup, please tell me that I'm not overstocked I would hate to have to move someone out.
<You are close and will be overstocked as these fishes grow.>
If I am I guess I will have to go to a bigger tank. Sorry for this long letter about the same old problem that you hear everyday but I'm at wits end, I love this hobby and I enjoy my aquarium but this problem is so discouraging it's making me want to give it up. Again thanks to all the people of WWM for their dedication to this hobby.
<Brian, other than what you have read about Cyano control on WWM, there is not much I can add other than what I mentioned above. The main goal is to control/lower dissolved nutrients, and with the use of a sump and skimmer, you really should not have any oxygen deficiency in your system. I have been reading good reports from folks using bio pellets with a reactor.
This is actually a dry form of vodka dosing, and although this system does a great job of lowering nitrates/phosphates, it also starves the Cyano in the process. Folks using this method of nutrient control will initially see an increased growth in Cyano, but then the growth drops significantly to a point where the Cyano is completely eradicated. This development period can last anywhere between three to four weeks. I have been seriously considering using this method of control in the very near future.
James (Salty Dog)>
Brian

Re The Red Demon "Cyano" HELP/Cyano Control 5/5/2011- 9/28/11
Hi there James(Salty Dog),
<Hello Brian>
Well it's been a couple of months since I wrote my letter about my Cyano problem and I have been patient and not expecting results overnight. I followed your advice and changed the following. The Hippo Tang was moved out, I removed the filter floss from the first compartment of my sump and placed it after the skimmer and now I change it out weekly (which I wasn't doing before). I still have my Polyfilter and Purigen after the skimmer.
<Good.>
I do find that the Tunze pulls out more than the Vertex 100 did. My husbandry is still the same except I don't do two 20g water changes a week, now I only do one 10/15g per week (it was getting expensive using Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt as I live in Canada and it's $100.00 per bucket).
<Yikes.>
I also purchased a reactor with the Biopellets and have been running that for about 3 months now. I have added a cleanup crew of about 18 Cerith snails, 15 Astrea snails and a Cleaner Shrimp. My water parameters are always stable and same numbers that I sent you in my last message. I find that the Cyano has cleared up quite a bit but I still have it coming back I haven't gotten rid of it completely. I removed the live rock that was at the top (about 8 or 9 pieces) that was really covered with the red slime and placed them into a 15g tub with a power head, a canister filter with a Polyfilter and the Vertex100 skimmer for about 3 months to clean the rock.
Now that the rock is clean of Cyano I returned it back to my tank and within a month that cleaned rock is now developing some kind of brown hair algae. My other question I have, well actually two, would you have any idea why my Biopellets have turned red? I'm thinking it has to do with the Cyano. My filter floss turns red also.
<If you were brushing the Cyano off the rock this would happen. And if so, it is the worst thing you can do, you are just spreading the &%*&^%$ stuff to other areas of the tank.>
Is it possible that the Biopellets have removed the Cyano and now leaching it back into the sump where my filter floss and Polyfilter absorbs it and turns red?
<Possibly. You may want to try Boyd's Chemiclean which is likely the best and most effective product in removing Cyano, but you do have to follow the instructions to the tee. I'm not a fan of using these type products but I have heard good reviews on the product, and sometimes you are faced with no other alternative. I know a few experienced aquarist who resort to this product before Cyano gets out of control. Have you increased your flow rate since the last email? You might want to check the skimmer's venturi pathways to ensure no calcium or debris build is present which will greatly reduce the efficiency of the skimmer. The lines/fittings are pretty small so it doesn't take much of a build up to reduce air flow to the venturi.>
My other question is, have you ever heard of a Percula divorcing it's Anemone? My Percula that I've had for 7 years now has been living in it's Anemone since the day I put him in the tank and just lately he doesn't go near it anymore he now sleeps on the other side of the tank in the corner upright bobbing the way they do. Even during the day he won't go near it and if the Flame Angel harasses him a bit he still won't retreat to it the way he used to.
<Mmm, may be the fish is aging and having a problem producing the protective slime which protects the fish from being stung by the anemone.
Bob may input here as well.>
Well I have to say thanks in advance and again praise all the men and women of WWB for everything you do.
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Brian

Cyanobacteria, rdg. 4/12/11
Hi crew, first I want to thank you for the great job you guys do on the web page. Guys im having problems with Cyano I don't know how to control it.
<... this is gone over and over; elucidated on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above. Simply read>
I have gone to my lfs but it seems like all they do is sell me something different.
<Quelle surprise. Not>
I use r.o water that I buy from them and I get my water tested all the time. They told me all my water perimeters are fine, I don't have them on hand now but they all read normal. Is a 55g with about 60 lb live rock and about 2" live sand 20 blue hermit crabs two turbo snail and ten more reg snails.
<... won't eat this>
I have a pair of mated clowns and a Hawkeye. Wet dry filter
<Part of the cause>
from pro clear a Coralife super skimmer(any good)
<... see WWM... Learn to/use the search tool, indices>
I get almost nothing in collection cup all week. And one Koralia. My question is how do I stop it from coming back? I've done water changes, and added all sorts of things bought from my lfs. I've read all trough the wwm but all cases seem different. Please help me im running out of ideas and money!! Thank you and I hope to hear from you guys soon.
<Keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Cyano, 4/4/11
Hi Crew,
<Hello>
I have a 24 gallon Aquapod with 96W of T5's (daylight). Lights are on 10 hours a day.
Astrea and Stomatella snails but nothing cleans the substrate. Nassarius snail for some reason just don't stay alive in this tank.
Fish are a Green Clown Goby, Blue Chromis, Firefish, Spotted Cardinal, Rusty Goby.
<That is a probably part of the problem, this tank is overstocked.>
Coral are Candycanes, Acans and various Anthelia. About 30 pounds live rock and about
1 inch of crushed coral.
<Explains why the Nassarius snails are dying, they need a sand substrate.
Also probably contributing to your Cyano problem as the crushed coral will trap detritus.>
Setup is a bit over 2 years old with almost no changes for the past few months (a record).
A Neon Goby did die when my Cyano problems started but I doubt that is my problem. He was very small and thin and even though I did not find him he would have had very little negative impact in my opinion. I have had large snails die with no apparent affect.
<Did you remove these after their death, sometimes referred to as nutrient grenades due to their decomposition fueling blooms like you are seeing.>
My water flow is just the pump that comes with the Aquapod. A hang on skimmer is in a back compartment so it does not affect the flow in the display area.
<Is this skimmer producing much? Upgrading may be worth your while.>
The Cyano started as a red slime and slowly spread even though I siphoned out some every day.
So I decided to try the 'easy way out' and used Red Slime Remover. After 48 hours it says you can do another dose so I did since it was improved but still there.
<Antibiotics, generally not a good idea to use.>
Good news is that I did not see any adverse affects on fish and coral.
Bad news is instead of a red slime I now have a muddy colored slime with long filaments going all over the place.
<Diatoms perhaps? Either way something has stepped up to consume the nutrients that the Cyano was previously.>
So getting back to basics, I did not feed fish one day and moved the nozzles to get more flow all over.
<You may want to add powerheads if you are not getting 15-20Xs turnover per hour.>
I changed my filter media (100 micron pad), siphoned again, blew off what did not get siphoned, changed 2 gallons.
<This should be done weekly.>
Water was very clear in the morning despite blowing all that stuff around.
Fed fish only some chopped silversides and made sure all was consumed.
<Stick with pellets for the time being, they add less nutrients to the tank.>
Will go thru this cycle for a few days and see how it goes.
<Be more patient here, this process can take weeks to months to get under control.>
But I am not optimistic.
My question for the crew is; does the crushed coral needs to be replaced?
<Would not hurt.>
Thanks,
Sam
<It's all about nutrient control. See the attached articles for more.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm >
<Chris>
Re: Cyano, 4/4/11
Hi Chris,
<<Hello>>
<That is a probably part of the problem, this tank is overstocked.>
possibly, but as I stated it has been like this for 2 years so either something changed or something accumulated. They really are small fish except for the cardinal.
<<In older tanks blooms can happen from slower accumulation of nutrients over time if there is inadequate removal of biological material.>>
<Is this skimmer producing much? Upgrading may be worth your while.>
skimmer does accumulate a dark green tea but not the skimmate I read about on WWM. I change a gallon a week so between that and what does get skimmed it should be ok.
<<I would go 2 gallons weekly here, more bang for minimally more work. Are you using tap or something else? Have you checked your source water for nitrates or phosphates?>>
<Diatoms perhaps? Either way something has stepped up to consume the nutrients that the Cyano was previously.> I still think it is Cyano, just a different color.
<<Very possible, comes in many colors.>>
Does the crushed coral needs to be replaced?
<Would not hurt.> well, that is a big job and I don't want to do it unless I know that is the solution.
<<I would not call this a total solution, but may help quite a bit. Some form of more efficient nutrient removal is probably necessary too.>>
<Be more patient here, this process can take weeks to months to get under control.>
ok, will keep you posted.
Thanks
<<Welcome>>
<<Chris>>
Re: Cyano, 4/13/11

Hi Chris,
<Hello>
An update after 10 days. I added a bag of PhosZorb. Changing 1 gallon every other day. Also siphon out what I can daily and blow the remainder off of everything. Wash the filter pad daily because it really needs it.
Actually replaced it a couple times. I only feed once a day so I did not change that.
I would say that the amount of Cyano is reduced by at least 60 percent.
<Good>
I had a small clump of Chaeto and it seems to be disintegrating. I guess the
Cyano is doing a better job of using the nutrients than the Chaeto. Still debating whether to change out my crushed coral.
Thanks,
Sam
<I would replace, will make your life easier long term.>
<Chris>

Lyngbya sp, BGA rdg. 3/11/11
I believe my tank is suffering from**Lyngbya Sp*.
<No fun... these Cyanobacteria can be hard to eradicate if/once it gets established>
*It is a filamentous brown algae that loves nutrient poor environments and grows plentifully in high flow areas. I attempted to search for a cure to this invasive algae type but to no avail. I've had decent luck with Mexican Turbo Snails and also dosing Pohl's Coral Snow but was wondering if you have any further information to guide in the eradication of this kind of algae?
<Mmm, first off, are you sure re the ID of this Moneran? I.e., have you looked at samples w/ a 'scope?>
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Brett
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm and the linked files re the group above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Lyngbya sp -- 3/11/11

Thanks for your help Bob. In the light of recent events in Japan I'm glad to see you are OK - seeing that you are a frequent world traveler.
<In San Diego currently>
I haven't looked at the algae under a scope but it has been identified by some other reef enthusiasts as such, but I understand it can't be properly ID'd unless magnified.
<Correct>
I lost a Lyretail Anthias over it. It was quite out of control a few months ago and I believe it was toxic to
the fish and their gills.
<It is... even humans... skink contact may result in Cyanobacterial dermatitis>
Since then my cleanup crew has been decent at keeping it partially under control. Are Mexican Turbos the only invert that tends to feed on this stuff readily?
<I don't know that any organism consistently consumes BGA of any kind>
Also is Cyano of any variation acidic in nature?
<Mmm, yes>
Thanks again.
<Welcome. BobF>
Thanks again Bob, much appreciated. If I get it ID'd under a scope I will let you know. Thank you!
<Thank you Brett. B>

Re: BGA 2/13/11
Howzit, Bob?
<Fine>
Sorry for the delay in follow up. Here is a picture of the algae I'm dealing with. I generally keep 3-4 hermit crabs, and 4-5 snails of different varieties,
<... won't eat this>
though I've had problems with the snails lasting any amount of time. A Lawnmower Blenny actually starved to death in this system,
<Unpalatable to Salarias, Atrosalarias spp>
and a Coral Beauty did well feeding on the turf algae for about a year, but then perished around the same time the algae got really bad. I'm guessing it was a water quality issue, because the angel's fins had started to get ragged before it died. I would like to try adding a C. Argi to the current stock, though.
I was intrigued by your suggestion that there could be an issue with the rock or the sand bed leaching nutrients somehow. Given how much trial-and-error it would take to isolate that particular source, do you see any benefit in trying a UV sterilizer? I've tried to subscribe to the "more biology and less technology" approach, but I can't see how to get ahead of the algae without tearing down this system and starting over. Also, if I isolate my corals in another tank, am I just spreading algae spores into another system and asking for trouble there, too?
Mahalo,
Scott
<Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above. B>

Reclaiming tank 1/10/11
First of all, thanks for your invaluable resources. I have been a fan of your website for several years now.
<Thank you!>
I have a 50gal setup with about 30 pounds of live rock in more of a less fish only tank. I have 2 clowns, a yellow tang, 2 yellow tail damsels, and an engineer goby. Right now, the only inverts I have a few turbo snails.
<A bit on the small side for the tang.>
A couple of years ago, I had a coral banded shrimp, chocolate chip star <Oh no!>, and even kept a seahorse with great success.
My problem now is (with 2 small kids) I have diverted my attention away from my aquarium and have let it go south. I have not put the time and attention into it like I should and now I have a Cyano red slime algae outbreak and some of my levels are high. I have started doing weekly 5 gal water changes,
installed a protein skimmer and have bought a RO/DI water system.
<All great steps.>
One of my resolutions for 2011 is to reclaim my aquarium and to have it looking pristine once again... adding some inverts and anemones.
<One anemone in here and do realize it will make keeping other corals in the future somewhat tougher.>
Maybe someday I can dabble in some easily maintained corals.
I would appreciate your advise based on my levels below. I was thinking of using 2 Brightwell aquatic products to help me... Microbacter7 and biofuel since it is primarily my nitrate and phosphate levels that are high.
<I have personally tried neither. I personally do not believe at all in products such as the first you list. Your tank is established, with live rock. A "cycling" boost would do nothing here. The second product is
based on vodka dosing, a proven method. But quite honestly with this water volume and the steps you have taken I would skip it entirely. This method is not without risk!>
Sg: 1.024
pH: 8.4
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3:40
PO3: 5.0
Ca: 260
<Yep, out of balance.>
I think a lot of my problem is the detritus buildup along with the red slime and some possible decaying fish/inverts.
<Pull them out!>
Something has killed off most of my inverts (PO3 and NO3 I assume).
<Possibly, and indication of overall poor conditions.>
Overall fish health appears to be fine at this point, but I know they will feel better once all parameters are stabilized.
<Oh yes. I am surviving myself in 40 deg temps, but would be much happier in Fiji right now!>
Many thanks in advance for your help. I do value your suggestions and advice.
<Really, just keep doing what you are here. You stated yourself this situation started with neglect. You have taken major steps here. Just give it time. Realize as the BGA dies off it can re-pollute the tank. It is important to keep the protein skimmer working properly and keep up on the water changes. Once the problem is under control you can cut back on the water changes. Scott V.>

New reef aquarium, fish scraping against rocks and substrate 1/7/11
Hello, 3 months ago I replaced my 29 gallon reef tank with a slightly larger 38 gallon aquarium. I noticed that after adding my fish and coral, my fish (2 Ocellaris Clowns, Firefish, Cherub Angel, Royal Gramma)
starting scraping against objects in the aquarium (rocks, sand, equipment, etc.). This did not occur in my previous tank. All water parameters, PH, Salinity, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, KH, Phosphate, Silicates, Iodine, Calcium and Magnesium, are in proper ranges. My coral are doing great, however the fish keep scraping more and more.
<Mmm, actually, there is a good possibility that your corals doing great is the source of your fishes irritation>
There are no visible signs of parasites like Ick or flukes or anything, the fish physically look perfect . There is no color loss or excess body slime, but something seems to stressing them. Everything is new , the tank ,live rock, substrate, and equipment. I purchase my RO water from my LFS, so the water is the same water I used before. I don't know if it's possible that the new live rock might have introduced some kind of parasite that I cannot see, but you'd figure that after 3 months something would have shown up.
Any ideas and/or treatments you would have would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You, Art S.
<I suspect the move brought on a "cascade event" of the Cnidarians/Corals interacting w/ each other... competing... and that this chemical warfare is mal-affecting your fishes. I would utilize a good grade/quantity of activated carbon... And if you had such means, increase the RedOx potential of the water (using Ozone, UV...). Do read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: New reef aquarium, fish scraping against rocks and substrate 1/10/11

Mr. Fenner, thank you for answering my question so quickly. I have decided to move all the coral back to my other tank for the time being. I will add a high quality carbon and do some water changes to remove any toxins.
<A good, work-able plan>
Hopefully this improve the condition of my fish. I do not have access to ozone equipment, but I do have a UV sterilizer.
<Good/decent makes, models of these produce considerable O3>
It's a JBJ Submariner and an odd situation arose when I installed it into my aquarium. Moments after I turned it on, my Tunze 9002 Nano skimmer stopped producing foam.
<Actually, this isn't odd at all>
24 hours later it is still not producing foam into the collection cup. I started thinking that maybe I knocked the air mixture screw out of adjustment when I was installing the sterilizer, so I increased the air but when I did it started pumping out noticeably more micro bubbles into the tank. So right now I'm not sure if it's just out of adjustment or, if perhaps, this signifies some sort of issue or condition with the chemistry of the water in the tank. Any ideas?
<Ah, yes... you need to either figure out about how much RedOx is being affected here with measure or test/metering gear. Read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/redoxmeasure.htm
and the linked files, particularly the survey article linked above>
Thanks again, Art S.
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: New reef aquarium, fish scraping against rocks and substrate 1/10/11
Mr. Fenner, thanks for the info. I will have to purchase a meter so I can get you the RedOx level. In the meantime I do have an issue with some sort of nuisance algae or Cyanobacteria. It's orangey/rusty colored and really more resembles Cyanobacteria.
<Could well be>
It is barely visible when the lights come on, but as the day progresses it intensifies only to start to lessen intensity an hour or 2 before the lights go out. This happens everyday and I have had this issue in my previous saltwater aquariums. Do you have an idea of what this may be and could it be related to improper RedOx levels? Thanks, Art S.
<Likely BGA and these and other algal issues are often easily solved w/ proper RedOx levels. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and the linked files above. B>
Re: New reef aquarium, fish scraping against rocks and substrate 1/10/11

Mr. Fenner, I believe you are correct, in does look like my nuisance algae is BGA.
<Oh yes>
While I wait to get my ORP meter, there is something I have noticed that is different about my new tank as compared to my previous saltwater aquariums. When would open the top or just smell the water, my previous tanks had water that smelled kind of fresh, almost sweet.
<Good>
My new tank's water smells, for a lack of better term, like mold or mildew or some sort of wet vegetation. Any ideas? Thanks, Art S.
<Yes... get rid of the BGA. Please see our prev. corr. (below) re. Cheers, BobF out for biers>

Cyanobacteria 1/11/11 (Mmm, too bad the time wasn't 1:11 as well, would have been all 1's)
Hi Crew,
<Hello Sam>
A reply to someone with nuisance microalgae was identified as Cyanobacteria. He described it as being hard to remove. My own experience with it was always that it could be blown off fairly easy with a baster and came off the glass with one wipe. So I guess there is there a form of it that is difficult to remove
<<Oh yes. RMF>>
and I have it too. Recently I had some on my glass and it looked like Cyanobacteria but it did not come off until I peeled it off with a razor. And it was not coraline. It looked like Cyanobacteria but just was not behaving as in my past experiences with it.
I changed my bulbs and so far it has not returned.
<Thanks for sharing your experience with us Sam, will post. James (Salty Dog)>

 

Nuisance Microalgae 1/10/11
Hello WWM,
<Adam>
I have been having a rough time with an unknown algae for the good part of a year now, and have done what research I could and have not found any good info on this specific algae, so I am turning to you guys for some advice.
I have a 5 foot 120G, with a 60G fuge and 40G sump in the basement. Run 3 250w MH bulbs, 6.5 hours a day.
<This is a bunch of light, though I'd reduce the intensity, increase the photoperiod>
SG 1.026, temp 78, ca 440, Alk 7 [2 part
dosing], no nitrates or phosphates on my API tests (those I suppose they are there.) Flow from 2 Vortechs set a 100%, skimmer octo 200 recirc, and I run a Deltec mce 600. I run BRS carbon, and GFO.
<I would ditch the GFO... your photosynthates need soluble phosphate...>
I run your standard SPS reef tank, SPS grown fine, colour could be better, but no huge issues. I have a medium bioload, 2 clowns, 2 Lyretail, 1 2" hippo tang, 2 mandarins, midas blenny, royal gramma, orchid Dottyback, and a Multibarred angel.
The tank has been up for over 1.5 years now, and this algae has been stifling my liverock for probably a good year now. The algae is brown, definitely photosynthetic, since it wont grow in the shade, will grow in high or low flow, is hard to remove from the rock, and is extremely quick growing.
<I see this in your images... and from your descriptions, this is almost assuredly principally a Cyanobacteria...>
I feed very little to try and keep it in check, a pinch of pellets, or some rinsed Mysis everyday. I also have been dosing vodka for the past 2 months, I am dosing 5ml a day now. I cut back from 10ml a day, because my tank started produce a strong fishy smell. Since the vodka dosing, the Chaeto in my sump stopped growing, and has remained the same size.
<I'd keep the light on this green algae in your sump all the hours the lights are off on the main display>
No snails I have tried will eat it, I syphon it off the rocks when I do a water change and it is back in a couple days, it is impossible to clean it all off. The rock was dry Marco rock seeded with LR. I understand that if I were to control my nitrate and phosphate better it would have to die,
<Not ahead of your photosynthetic livestock, no>
however if I fed any less I do not think my fish would be healthy. I change approximately 30G of water every 2 weeks [Instant Ocean].
<Good>
I do notice that if I do not syphon it off the rock, it will grow until a certain point, turn black, fall off, and start the cycle again.
<Oh yes>
Do I do a three day dark period?
<Not of use here>
I am worried for my corals, though perhaps I shouldn't be. I am not sure what else I can do. Is there some magic animal that will eat it?
<Not likely, no>
I have even brushed the LR with a toothbrush to no avail.
Help please, what is this algae, and what else can I do?
<Is a BGA... a few paths to improve your situation are available... I'd take a few of them simultaneously. For one, look into improving your RedOx... also, I'd make the sump into a DSB w/ fine aragonitic sand...>
Adam
<Please peruse these articles: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
and http://wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/RedOx/RedoxPPTpres1.htm
and the linked files above. You can "win this battle", with a bit of understanding, application of tried/true technology. Bob Fenner>
Images--
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5341349931_937f60afe0_z.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5341348407_110514b9b2_z.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5341346897_b78b1b4df8_z.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5341345471_8f408bf2a3_z.jpg

Re: Nuisance Microalgae <<RMF>> 1/10/11
Hello WWM,
> <Adam>
> I have been having a rough time with an unknown algae for the good part
of a year now, and have done what research I could and have not found any good info on this specific algae, so I am turning to you guys for some advice.
> I have a 5 foot 120G, with a 60G fuge and 40G sump in the basement. Run
3
> 250w MH bulbs, 6.5 hours a day.
> <This is a bunch of light, though I'd reduce the intensity, increase the
> photoperiod>
>
-->It a 3 bulb pendant light, I could turn the middle bulb off for a
while
and see what happens.
<<I would>>
> SG 1.026, temp 78, ca 440, Alk 7 [2 part
> dosing], no nitrates or phosphates on my API tests (those I suppose they
> are
> there.) Flow from 2 Vortechs set a 100%, skimmer octo 200 recirc, and I
> run
> a Deltec mce 600. I run BRS carbon, and GFO.
> <I would ditch the GFO... your photosynthates need soluble phosphate...>
--> Done
> I run your standard SPS reef tank, SPS grown fine, colour could be
better,
> but no huge issues. I have a medium bioload, 2 clowns, 2 Lyretail, 1 2"
> hippo tang, 2 mandarins, midas blenny, royal gramma, orchid Dottyback,
and
> a
> Multibarred angel.
> The tank has been up for over 1.5 years now, and this algae has been
> stifling my liverock for probably a good year now. The algae is brown,
> definitely photosynthetic, since it wont grow in the shade, will grow
in
> high or low flow, is hard to remove from the rock, and is extremely
quick
> growing.
> <I see this in your images... and from your descriptions, this is almost
> assuredly principally a Cyanobacteria...>
-->I did have some red Cyano in the beginning, but I have no seen any in a
long while
<<... Please read where you were referred... NOT all BGA are red...>>
> I feed very little to try and keep it in check, a pinch of pellets, or
> some
> rinsed Mysis everyday. I also have been dosing vodka for the past 2
> months,
> I am dosing 5ml a day now. I cut back from 10ml a day, because my tank
> started produce a strong fishy smell. Since the vodka dosing, the Chaeto
> in
> my sump stopped growing, and has remained the same size.
> <I'd keep the light on this green algae in your sump all the hours the
> lights are off on the main display>
--->already on a reverse photoperiod
<<Okay>>
> No snails I have tried will eat it, I syphon it off the rocks when I do
a
> water change and it is back in a couple days, it is impossible to clean
it
> all off. The rock was dry Marco rock seeded with LR. I understand that
if
> I
> were to control my nitrate and phosphate better it would have to die,
> <Not ahead of your photosynthetic livestock, no>
> however if I fed any less I do not think my fish would be healthy. I
> change
> approximately 30G of water every 2 weeks [Instant Ocean].
> <Good>
> I do notice that if I do not syphon it off the rock, it will grow until
a
> certain point, turn black, fall off, and start the cycle again.
> <Oh yes>
> Do I do a three day dark period?
> <Not of use here>
> I am worried for my corals, though perhaps
> I shouldn't be. I am not sure what else I can do. Is there some magic
> animal
> that will eat it?
> <Not likely, no>
> I have even brushed the LR with a toothbrush to no avail.
> Help please, what is this algae, and what else can I do?
> <Is a BGA... a few paths to improve your situation are available... I'd
> take a few of them simultaneously. For one, look into improving your
> RedOx... also, I'd make the sump into a DSB w/ fine aragonitic sand...>
> Adam
-->My ORP is 474 at the moment,
<<Whoa! I would not have it this high>>
I do not think I could get it higher, I suppose I could buy an ozone producer
-->I Only have a SSB in the display, what Ill do is make a DSB in my 60G
fuge, I think that should be sufficient.
> <Please peruse these articles: http://wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
> and http://wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/RedOx/RedoxPPTpres1.htm
> and the linked files above. You can "win this battle", with a bit of
> understanding, application of tried/true technology. Bob Fenner>
> Images--
> http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5341349931_937f60afe0_z.jpg
> http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5341348407_110514b9b2_z.jpg
> http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5341346897_b78b1b4df8_z.jpg
> http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5341345471_8f408bf2a3_z.jpg
<<BobF>>

Re: Nuisance Microalgae 1/10/11
Thanks for all the great help.
Adam
<Certainly welcome Adam. BobF>

New Print and eBook on Amazon

Marine Aquarium Algae Control

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: