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FAQs about Brackish Puffer Disease/Health
3 Related Articles: Freshwater/Brackish
Puffers, Alone
But Not Lonely: The Importance of Keeping Puffers Individually
by Damien Wagaman, Green Spotted Puffers (GSP's),
The
Arrowhead Puffer, Tetraodon suvattii, miraculously malicious,
True Puffers, Puffers
in General, Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers, Boxfishes,
Puffy & Mr. Nasty, Puffer
Care and Information
by John (Magnus) Champlin,
Things That My Puffers Have Told Me by Justin Petrey,
Related FAQs: BR Puffer Disease 1,
BR Puffer Disease 2,
GSP Disease,
Figure-Eight Puffer Disease,
&
BR Puffers 1, BR
Puffers 2, BR
Puffers 3, BR Puffer Identification,
BR Puffer Behavior,
BR Puffer Selection,
BR Puffer Compatibility,
BR Puffer Systems,
BR
Puffer Feeding, BR
Puffer Disease, BR Puffer Disease 2,
BR
Puffer Reproduction, Freshwater Puffers 1,
FW Puffers 2,
FW Puffers 3,
FW Puffer Identification,
FW Puffer Behavior,
FW Puffer Selection,
FW Puffer Compatibility,
FW Puffer Systems,
FW Puffer Feeding,
FW Puffer Disease,
FW Puffer Reproduction,
Brackish
Water Fishes in General, Puffers in
General, True Puffers, Freshwater
Puffers, Green Spotted Puffers, Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes,
Tobies/Sharpnose Puffers, Boxfishes,
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Pufferfish, MBU, with lump 5/5/08
Hi Bob, attached please find a few pictures of Klaus, a +50 cm big
MBU ... AQ 1000 L The fish is in good shape (is active, eating regularly
etc.), however shows up with a lump on the left side of his mouth.
<I see this>
If possible, please let me have your feedback if the lump could be
dangerous for the fish and how it should be treated. Thanks for your
support, Heike
PS I ask the same question Martin Himmel, administrator of
http://www.pufferforum.net
<It may be that this is a "thyroidal" (Chromaffin tissue) tumour. These
can often be treated with administration of iodine/ide/ate via
foods/feeding. Do you administer vitamins already to this fish? Am
sending this msg. to MarcoL for more/better input. Bob Fenner>
Re: Pufferfish, MBU, with lump – 05/06/08
Hi Bob,
<Marco here today.>
attached please find a few pictures of Klaus, a +50 cm big MBU ... AQ
1000 L The fish is in good shape (is active, eating regularly etc.),
however shows up with a lump on the left side of his mouth. If possible,
please let me have your feedback if the lump could be dangerous for the
fish and how it should be treated. Thanks for your support, Heike.
PS I ask the same question Martin Himmel, administrator of
http://www.pufferforum.net
<Hi Heike. As Bob already suggested this lump may be related to a lack
of iodine, especially if the diet of this fish did not consist partially
of crustaceans with their shell on. Another possible explanations would
be a bacterial infection. In this case a sample (e.g. with a hypodermic
needle) would have to be examined by a vet. If you decide to try that
and if you are located in Germany the animal hospital Giessen ("Klinik
für Vögel, Reptilien, Amphibien und Fische") would be one possible place
to call and ask how to take and send a sample for further examination.
They can possibly also refer you to another institute in case they are
too far away. Also, measure nitrates as an indicator for organic
pollution and in case they are beyond 30 ppm do a series of partial
water changes. This might enhance its immune system, for the same
purpose add vitamins to its food. Good luck with Klaus. Marco.>
Pufferfish, MBU, with lump – 08/06/08
Dear Bob,
<Hello Heike, Marco filling in for Bob this time.>
Thank you for your immediate reply.
We´re located in Germany and I´m afraid I did not get all answers (especially
the 'terms') correctly. If possible please let me have your reply once more with
words a bit more easier to understand for *Germans* for these points:
- Do you think the lump could be dangerous for the health of our puffer?
<Possible, especially in the long run.>
- What products do you suggest to provide our MBU with vitamins?
Concerning your question about vitamins:
We´ve put some drops of *V-Maxx Marinus Gel* (suggested from our dealer in
Germany) on the food from time to time when feeding the MBU.
<That’s okay, I’d change the ‘from time to time’ into an ‘often’ until the lump
is gone. For iodine consider feeding marine foods like unseasoned North Sea
shrimps with their shell on.>
Once more, thank you very much for your support!
<I hope you did also get the e-mail re the University of Giessen and the
suggestion to check organic pollution of the tank.>
Best, Heike.
<Greetings from the vicinity of Heidelberg. Marco.> |
One Finned Puffer 1/4/07
Hi There
<Hi Melissa, Pufferpunk here>
My Name is Melissa. I recently got a green spotted puffer a few weeks back. He
has been doing great since I got him.
<Good to hear.>
Today I went to feed him and he greeted me at the tank like he usually does and
I noticed that he was missing his fin on the right side of his body. I am really
worried because there are no other fish in his aquarium. What could have
happened? Is his fin gone for good now? The only items I have in his tank are a
little log decor thing that and a rock thing with fake plants on it. They are
both small and I don't see how that could harm him.
I hope you can help. Thank you.
<Sometimes fish look like their fin is missing but it's just using one fin. If
it continues for more that a few days, check his gill on that side. If it
looks inflamed or also is not moving, he may have gill flukes.
Read:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13
Also:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm
You are welcome to join www.thepufferforum.com, for some great puffertalk! ~PP>
Melissa
Puffer fish ... ID, disease/env./sys. 11/16/06
Hi
<<Hello>>
I just bought 2 spotted puffers a couple days ago.
Did they look like this?:
http://www.pufferresources.net/puffer_profiles/viewtopic.php?t=19>>
They were completely normal until yesterday when I noticed that one looked like
he had ick. First of all what can I do about the ick. I am putting some
medication in the water.
<<Please don’t before you know what kind of puffer you have, what ails it, and
have them in a cycled, aquarium. If these are indeed GSP’s, (Tetraodon
nigroviridis) then they need 30 gallons of water each minimum, and require full
marine conditions as adults.>>
Second, the same puffer sits in this one corner all the time while the other
puffer is swimming around the tank. Is this normal?
<<No. Please get back to me, and visit www.pufferresources.net.>>
Thanks
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Puff Daddy not Well 7/27/06
I wrote yesterday hoping to get some insight as to why my puffer is ill.
All I got in response was that I was keeping a brackish water fish in fresh
water.
<I assumed, since you IDed it as a FW puffer, you were keeping it in FW.>
He is in brackish water, the pH levels are right and the water temp is 80
degrees (been very hot here). Puff Daddy has a variety of foods but doesn't
seem to be interested in much of anything. He tends to stay up close to the
surface of the water and is a very dark grey. He almost looks as if he is
having trouble breathing. Is there anything I can try to make Puff Daddy feel
better?
<Heavy breathing is usually sign of ammonia/nitrite poisoning. How was the tank
cycled? Did you read that article I linked you to? Are you using marine
salt? What's the SG? I also asked you to check the water parameters. Get back
to me with those & I'll try to help further. ~PP>
Puffer in Trouble! 6/2/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a mini green puffer fish that is not doing so well.
<Please go here for proper ID: www.pufferlist.com>
It seems to be very skinny then when I got it.
<I see 2 mistakes so far--buying a fish without researching it & buying an
unhealthy specimen.>
We went to Petco and got brine shrimp.
<Fairly unhealthy food--not very nutritious--mostly water.>
I took him out of the tank and into a bowl with sea salt and pH down in it.
<Why? Please put the fish back in the tank!>
I also put in the brine shrimp. His side fins are moving but he wont swim or
move or eat. Please tell me what can do to help him. I am completely helpless.
<Go to www.thepufferforum.com & look at the articles in the Library there. Read
about the feeding of puffers & the care of them. Read about cycling a tank
too. Read in the Hospital forum about treating internal parasites. ~PP>
-puff
<Please be sure to use proper capitalization in your future letters.>
Treating Puffers with Ich 3/24/06
<Hi Brolin , Pufferpunk here.>
I recently (over a week ago), purchased 3 figure-eight pufferfish from
Wal-Mart.
<I wouldn't purchase toilet paper from them.>
I know but I couldn't stand seeing such wonderful fish waste away.
<Just encouraging them to buy more, since they see these fish sell.>
They were already covered in ich.
<Never buy sick fish.>
I chose three that seemed to have lots of energy. I have cured ich in fish
before and figured I could do the same with these puffers. I have tried so
many combinations of treatments and none have seemed to work. I have been
treating them with Quick Cure Ick (a formalin and malachite green
solution). I've added salt and raised the temperature and increased
aeration, to prevent anoxic conditions. I do a 50% H2O change if not once a
day, every other day but the cysts on the fish have seemed to double the in
the last two days.
<Bump that up to 80% daily. Bare-bottom tank is best.>
The fish still have a tremendous appetite, so I feel that there is still
hope.
<That is a good sign. Sometimes it looks worse, before it gets better.>
I was thinking about switching aquariums everyday until the fish are cured
and thoroughly clean the previous tank but I didn't want to stress the fish
out more and make them more susceptible.
<That does sound stressful.>
I also have Clout, but it says not to use it on scaleless fish.
<I wouldn't use it then.>
I was also wandering what kind of filtration would be good to have going? I
am currently running an undergravel filter with a power head and a power
filter with just a fiber cartridge, no activated
carbon. If I switch aquariums, should I just not use any rocks or substrate?
<Bare bottom, simple filtration is best for a QT.>
Please help! I truly appreciate it, and so do my fish!!
<Sounds like you are doing everything possible for these poor fellas. Check
here, to see if you missed anything:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9
Check out that forum too! ~PP>
Thanks and God Bless, Brolin Evans
Improperly Housed Puffers - 2/21/2006
Hello
<<Hello Jeremy.>>
I have recently come across your site searching for questions about my puffer’s
water condition. I have 3 GSP and 2 Fahaka puffers (all are in the neighborhood
of 3.5 inches long) in a 46 gallon tank (tall corner unit) with a Penguin
BioWheel 200.
<<Your Fahaka's needs freshwater, and a 125 gallon tank each, while your GSP’s
need high-end brackish water, and 30 gallons PER fish. They are not compatible,
regardless of aggression, as they need entirely different water parameters.>>
I have had them in this tank for about a year now and they all seem to get along
just fine, no problems with aggression towards each other.
<<See above.>>
Recently I have been having problems with my tank looking cloudy, more like a
white haze. My water parameters are as follows Ph 7.8, Ammonia 0ppm, nitrite
0ppm, and nitrate 20ppm. Specific gravity is 1.006.
<<Your Fahaka's need 100% freshwater, and the GSP’s need much higher SG.>>
I do 20% water changes every week and clean the gravel. The water turns cloudy
after about 2 days or after I feed them. I feed them 3 cubes of bloodworms every
other day.
<<Inappropriate diet. These guys need shell fish/snails/crunchy foods.>>
The water starts to clear up but when its time to feed them again its gets
cloudy. Any suggestions on what might be causing this condition?
<<You have some really problems on your hands I fear! Please start by reading
here:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/introtogsp.html, and visit
www.thepufferforum.com for proper information on caring for your puffers. This
tank is not only way over-stocked, but filled with fish with differing water
needs, none of which are being met. Hope to see you at The Puffer Forum.>>
Thanks,
Jeremy
<<Good Luck. Lisa.>>
Figure 8's with Ick 2/10/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I just lost a figure out to Ick a few days ago, and I got two more that I set
up in a separate tank until I completely get the other one clean. My two new
ones now are starting to get Ick and I tried the Ick Cure (blue stuff) on the
last guy and it did NOTHING. I noticed the pet store I work in carries a
medicine for ornamental fish that is suppose to kill all parasites and Ick,
would that be a good thing to try?...if not what should I do because I
don't want to loose another puffer, especially not within a week of buying the
2 new ones?
<http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9 ~PP>
Treating Puffers with Ich 1/26/06
I recently bought 2 Green spotted and 2 Fig 8 puffers. The 4 of them share
a 2ft brackish water aquarium (salinity's around 0.008).
<Wow, sounds way too small for all 4 of these fish. What is that around 15-20
gallons? I'd either return 1 F8 & the GSPs, or get 2 larger tanks. Even if that
tank is 20 gal, you should keep 1 F8 in 15g & 10g for every one added. GSPs are
going to grow up to be too large & aggressive to keep with F8s. They also
require much higher salinities--even marine conditions as adults. F8s are best
kept at a SG of around 1.005, for life.>
They're all eating and all seems to be fine but one Fig 8 has developed a few
tiny white spots on its tail & fins (looks almost like tiny air-bubbles).
<Sounds like it should a parasite called Ichthyophthirius multifilius (ich for
short). Here is a safe, non-medicinal treatment for it:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9
I am actually surprised they would have it though, if the SG is as high as
1.008. Do you think it could just be bubbles?>
I don't want to fiddle with them unnecessarily but they're an important part of
our lives now and I'd hate anything to happen to them, especially as a result of
ignorance (and a reliable source of information of puffers in South Africa is
limited - to be polite).
<Here's a huge source of information on puffers for you:
www.thepufferforum.com Excellent articles on your puffers in The Library at
that site.>
Do you reckon it's a disease and if so, what's the best way to treat the little
guy?
Any advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
<Check out the info I've given you & see ya at TPF! ~PP>
Thanks, Adrian
Puffer suffering from Internal Parasites 11/7/05
Hey guys,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I’m concerned with my puffer fish. I’ve had the little guy for approximately three weeks now and I’m
starting to notice that the fish’s abdominal area is appearing sunken. There also appears to be a bump in
the rectal area. Today I noticed the puffer in a still position, kind of resting up against the tank’s
wall, facing down with its tail curled towards its body. I thought for sure it was a goner but all of a
sudden it resumed its normal activity; this happened twice today. To further complicate the matter he’s,
on occasion, rubbing up against the tanks wall.
<Definitely internal parasites. Common to wild-caught fish, like puffers.>
I’m totally confused but my guess is that it’s related to some form of an internal parasite. There aren’t any
visible forms of parasites on the fish’s body or gills. Unfortunately, I’ve been somewhat unlucky
trying to find a product on the market that can treat this issue. Please help in anyway you can.
<I have had best success with Discomed, by Aquatronics, but unfortunately they have been out of business for a
while. You may be able to do a search for it at some shops, or the internet. Otherwise, read this:
http://www.thepufferforum.org/viewtopic.php?t=7.>
Some additional information: The tank has been acclimated over the past three weeks to a salinity
level of 1.006 by doing weekly water changes; my target level is approximately 1.008 to 1.01. The
pH,
nitrate, nitrate, and ammonia levels are all in good standing. The little guy is still eating – frozen
bloodworms.
<Look here for other food options (& all around good puffer keeping info), as they need to be eating crunchy foods
(crustaceans) to keep their teeth trimmed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm ~PP>
Silk Plant Stuck in Puffer's Teeth 9/9/05
Hi,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a leopard puffer who has bitten down on a silk plant in my tank.
<It is not uncommon for puffers to attack plants.>
A small portion of the plant is now lodged in his mouth. We were able to trim
back the largest part of it but he began to start puffing up so we stopped
handling him.
<Although generally stressful for a puffer to puff, as long as you keep it
underwater it will puff with water, which it will expel as soon as you let it
go. On the other hand, never let it puff with air!>
This small piece of silk plant is lodged right in the center of his
mouth. He is able to eat, but his belly is becoming very black.
<Sounds like he is stressed out about this. If you can't get the plant off his
teeth by pulling (while keeping the fish underwater), I would tranquilize him
with clove oil: fill two, one-quart containers with 3 cups of tank water. Put 3
drops of clove oil in 1 container. Add the fish. Within 1 minute the fish will
roll on it’s side and then lay on its back. It will seem dead. This will look
scary to you, but your fish will be fine. After 60 seconds, your puffer should
roll over on its back and be ready for you to remove the piece of plant. I would
also check it's teeth at this time to see if they are too long. This may be the
reason for your problem. If they are too long, they will need to be trimmed
with cuticle nippers (See:
http://www.thepufferforum.org/viewtopic.php?t=8)
Take the fish out with a net, (as to not damage it's skin with your hand) & hold
it through the net. Peel back the net, until the puffer’s head and teeth are
exposed. Quickly but carefully pull out the plant & and/or clip it's teeth,
being sure not to cut its mouth. Their teeth are different than you'd think.
It's more like clipping a fingernail. Try clipping straight across and as short
as feasible. Make sure to pull down the lower lip and check those teeth
too. Place the puffer in the container of fresh tank water. You should see it
breathing. After 1 minute it will right itself, and within 2 minutes it will be
swimming around. After your puffer seems calm and is swimming normally around
the container, you may place it back in the tank. Keep an eye on it for a while;
it should be swimming as if nothing has happened. This all needs to be done as
quickly as possible, as clove oil can also be used for painless euthanasia of
fish. A good reason to use the clove oil is once the fish is tranquilized, you
may remove it out of the water, without the worry of it puffing with air. A
puffer puffing with air can become a deadly proposition, if the air can’t be
removed. I do not recommend tranquilizing your fish if it is sickly or has been
weakened due to starvation--it may not recover!>
Please what can I do to save my little puffer. I have had him for about 6 months
and would hate to lose him now.
Hope to hear from you VERY soon, Samantha
<I'm sure he'll be fine after this. Here is another good article on them:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm ~PP>
Sickly puffer 8/03/05
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Hello, I have a 20 gallon long brackish puffer tank, with three baby puffers,
all under two inches (one is almost 2 inches now).
I have not tested my water levels, but I do a 20-30% water change every week, as
well as use AquaPlus and Cycle products according to manufacturer specs.
<I do not know what AquaPlus is, but Cycle is a bad product & a waste of
money. All you are adding with Cycle is dead bacteria, which can actually add
to the bioload of your tank & stress out your fish. Your tank is overcrowded &
needs weekly water changes of 50%. I would definitely test for ammonia,
nitrItes, nitrAtes & pH regularly.>
I have had my two spotted and one figure eight for about 6 months now, and up to
this point all have been doing great.
<I do not recommend housing these species together as adults. The GSP is much
more aggressive, grows to 3x the size & needs a much higher salinity than a F8.>
However, a few days ago I noticed my medium sized spotted puffer (lucky) was
swollen...REALLY swollen, his mouth is locked open it seems, and his breathing
is shallow and fast. He has also not eaten in at least three to four days.
<Signs of ammonia/nitrIte poisoning.>
He can still swim fine, but he is much less active and seems very scared, hiding
in the corner all the time now. I just started a Dropsy med. program today, but
I am not sure if that is what it is...any other ideas....
<Never ever medicate a fish on a whim. It can do much more damage than
good. You can remove the med by doing a large water change & filtering with
fresh carbon. Puffers especially, are sensitive to many meds, being scaleless
fish.>
I have also heard they can become dangerously constipated easily...???
<Never hear that.>
What should I do if this dropsy medication does not work, and how long should I
give it before trying something new?
<If indeed your fish is constipated, you can add 1 tbsp Epsom salt/5gal. I
don't think that is the problem. Please read this, to be sure you are taking
proper care of your puffer & feeding correctly:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm>
Thanks, Marcel
<Good luck with your puffers. I'd start planning for a bigger tank for the GSPs
in the near future. ~PP>
Sick Puffer 8/4/05
<Pufferpunk again>
Thanks for the info, Aqua Plus is a water conditioner which is suppose to make
tap water safe for fish. As far as Cycle goes...what would you recommend using
instead, or should I just not use it at all?
<If the tank is cycled, then the only additive necessary is a good dechlorinator
during water changes. I use Prime. If the tank is not cycled, then you need to
use Bio-Spira to cycle it.>
If my puffer does have Nitrate or Ammonia poisoning, what can I do besides water
changes? Will he get better on his own?
<Adding Bio-Spira after a large water change will instantly cycle a tank & take
care of the toxins. Look up cycling a tank at the WetWebMedia website. In the
meantime daily 50-80% water changes will prevent your fish from being poisoned
by toxins produced by an uncycled tank. You REALLY need to test your water to
be sure.>
Right now I keep my puffers in water with 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 US
gallons, but I don't think it is "sea salt". Does that matter?
<Definitely! Neither aquarium or "sea Salt" is the proper salt for BW
aquariums. You must use the same marine salt that is used for SW
aquariums. You will need a hydrometer to measure it.>
Thanks, and sorry to bother you again.
<No bother! Make sure to read that article I link you to in our last
email. Come over to my forum & learn more about your puffers:
www.thepufferforum.org. ~PP>
Cloudy Eye & BW Water changes 7/18/05
Hello Pufferpunk, I need to do a partial water change for my 55g
<Yes, should be doing 50% weekly with puffers.>
I am treating my sick puffer with PimaFix. I think that's the name.
<Pimafix>
Anyway, I have been treating one of my puffers who eye is cloudy and looks like
he is going to lose it, for 6 days. The tank is brackish. When we started the
tank we used aquarium salt. I have bought marine salt "instant ocean" for the
change. How
much salt should I add per gallon back in the tank?
<For me, a rough estimate is that 1 cup of salt/5gal raises the SG .005. You
can only raise the SG .002/water change, so a little math is in order. You must
premix the salt in a large container & pump the BW back into the tank. Let mix
sit for 24-48 hours & check several times with your hydrometer for accuracy of
correct salt content.>
BTW, His eye is still cloudy, can you help?
<I have had good luck with Melafix & pristine water conditions. ~PP>
Thank you for time with us.
Puffers & goldfish? 7/13/05
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I just purchased a FW puffer from Wal-Mart (yes I know, not a reliable source)
all it said for care was to feed it flake food and tank mates was
goldfish. Well, brought the cute little guy I am assuming is a green spotted
puffer by the pics I have seen on your site. He is spotted with a little
yellowish/greenish glowing area on his head. I put him in my 44 gallon tank,
which is kept very clean (almost like there is no glass there). I also
purchased six very small goldfish for my sons baby water snake. I keep them in
the tank and just take out two at a time for him to
feed to the snake. My problem is, shortly after putting the fish into my tank
which already had three fancy fan tailed gold fish, small, medium and extra
large, two loaches and two small suckerfishes, the tank became cloudy. The tank
is more than adequate to keep him in, he look like a tiny fish in comparison
<There are many things wrong here. 1st of all, how "clean" are you keeping that
tank? Are you cleaning it out totally, every time you clean it? Goldfish are
messy fish & produce high amounts of ammonia & other waste, it is recommended to
do 90% weekly water changes on their tank, not completely cleaning out
everything every time. They also need heavy filtration. The other problem I
see is GF are freshwater coldwater fish & the GSP is a brackish tropical
fish. The puffer will not be able to handle the ammonia & other toxins produced
by the GF. The fact that the tank became cloudy, makes me believe it is
overloaded & not cycled properly. That tank is probably only able to support
the fish that are already in there. Read the info on goldfish & also about
cycling at WWM.>
So it wasn't a room issue and I feed twice a day. I added only him and not the
water he was in in the bag from the store. Well, he just went belly up when I
thought he was fine. I am upset, he was a cute little guy and I was interested
in getting more. The other fishes are fine but one of my goldfish, the medium
one, has a bloody scale on his side, could this be form the puffer?
<Bloody scales are from bacterial infection, due to poor water quality. The
tank may look clean, but could be high in toxins like: ammonia, nitrItes & even
nitrAtes at high levels can be dangerous. Large water changes, good filtration
& test the water often for the above parameters. Try adding Melafix to the
water for the bloody fin.>
He never had that problem before and there are no other aggressive fish in the
tank. What made the tank go cloudy? It was crystal clear for a long time up to
the point the puffer was put into the tank.
<Cloudy water is a bacteria bloom, usually do to an uncycled tank or by adding
too many fish at one time, it can cause the system to "crash".>
I am really interested in getting another puffer but only if I can get some
advice on what happened and what I can do in the future to keep these
fascinating fish.
<Puffers are difficult fish to keep (especially BW ones) and are not for novice
fishkeepers. Read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm ~PP>
Thanks again for your time and consideration, Michele
Puffers.......HELP 7/9/05
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I just bought some puffers from Wal-Mart. I used aquarium salt for the tank. I
have bought them some squid and some frozen dead fish. I thawed the frozen fish
before I fed them. I am new to keeping puffers and wanted to know why they
curled up on the bottom of the tank. What did I do wrong? What is their
favorite temp/acid level they like? My baby puffers are 3/4 inches long and my
biggest one is about 1 1/2 inch. Please email me ASAP so I can keep my babies
alive and healthy. Thank you - Brandy and Melody.
<1st you need to find out what kind of puffers you have. Go to
www.pufferlist.com. There is also a lot of info on keeping puffers there & at
www.thepufferforum.org. Good luck with your new "friends". ~PP>
Puffer Parasite? 5/13/05
Hello,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
My name is Cullen and last week I broke the cardinal rule of research before purchase. I've been keeping freshwater tanks for a couple of years now, with a fair amount of
success and very few casualties. Last week while at the pet store, looking for a small ornamental fish for a newly cycled 2.5gal, my girlfriend fell in love w/ a small leopard puffer. I bet you can guess which fish we came home with.
<Can't blame her there, they are cuties!>
So here I am with this very interesting little fish, with very special needs. I knew before the purchase that puffers were BW fish so I've begun slowly bringing the salt content up, the LFS of course had him in FW.
<Not all puffers are BW fish. You should properly ID him here: http://www.pufferlist.com/
>
Now after combing the puffer posts on your site (GREAT BY THE WAY!) I have some questions. Question 1, What is the difference between marine salt and standard aquarium salt that is produced from salt water?
<Aquarium salt is sodium chloride. Marine salt is usually a composition of sodium chloride and some other stuff (depending on brand) like calcium, magnesium, chlorine, strontium, potassium, boron, fluorine and
sulfur to simulate natural seawater, which is best for BW fish.>
If I make the switch to marine salt with my next water change will the change stress the fish?
<No (if your puffer is BW), just start adding marine salt to your next water change. Most folks really don't add very much salt at 1st. You'll need a hydrometer to measure it. Start at a SG (specific gravity, a measurement of salt with a hydrometer) of 1.002 & raise the SG .002, every weekly water change. Make sure to dissolve the salt in a bucket, before adding to your tank. For a rough estimate, it takes around a cup of salt/5gal, to raise the SG .005. Check the SG in your tank a few hours & the next day after adding salt, to be sure.>
Now my second question comes directly from information I obtained on your site, I was not aware at the time of purchase that puffers are wild caught fish, this worries my slightly because I've noticed my little puffer's back seems to have a bit of a curve (to the left). I know some internal parasites can "twist up" a fishes spine so to speak. Should I be worried?
<Although a bent spine can be caused from starvation due to internal parasites, it may or may not be. You can treat for IPs just in case though. I have had much
success with Discomed, by Aquatronics, but since the company has be out of business for a while, you may be hard-pressed to find some. My biggest concern is that you may be keeping this fish in the 2 1/2gal tank you mentioned. Even a juvenile needs at least a 10g tank & 30g, as a 6" adult. See:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/gspsart.htm
>
I've fallen in love with this little guy and want him to live a happy, healthy, long life... I've already started preparations to set up a 20gal BW tank for him. Thanks for the
help.
<Please try to get him into the larger tank as soon as possible. You can instantly cycle it with
Bio-Spira. ~PP> | |
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