FAQs about Burrfishes, Porcupinefishes Nutritional Disease
FAQs on Burrfish Disease:
Burrfish Disease 1, Burrfish Disease 2, Burrfish Disease 3, Burrfish Disease 4,
Burrfish Disease 5, Burrfish
Burrfish Disease Disease by Category:
Related Articles: Burrfishes/Porcupinefishes, Puffers in General, Puffer Care and
Information, A Saltwater Puffer Primer:
Big Pufferfish! by Mike Maddox, Pufferfish Dentistry By Kelly Jedlicki and Anthony Calfo,
True Puffers, Freshwater Puffers,
Related FAQs: Diodontids 1, Diodontids 2, Diodontids 3, Burrfish Identification, Burrfish Behavior, Burrfish Compatibility, Burrfish Selection, Burrfish Systems, Burrfish Feeding, Burrfish Reproduction, Puffers in General, Puffer Selection, Puffer Behavior, Puffer Systems, Puffer Feeding, Puffer Disease, Puffer Dentistry, Puffer
Reproduction, True Puffers,
Brackish Puffers, Tobies/Sharpnose
Thiaminase issues, blindness, malaise, feeding strikes... are all
possible consequences of mis-feeding inappropriate foods
Porcupine Puffer... fdg., hlth. 11/23/17
Hi - I have been reading up on Thiaminase deficiency on your site. There are
several issues going on with my porcupine puffer.
<I can see... a Protozoan issue, likely Cryptocaryon on this fish in your pic>
90 gallon tank and he is the only fish with the exception of a small clown fish.
Water parameters are fine with exception of nitrates which according to API
strips read 40.
<Mmm; need data (not subjective eval.); strips are neither accurate nor precise,
and 20 ppm is all I'd allow concentration wise for NO3>
Tank is only cleaned once a month but my hands are tied as it is the tank at my
work and my boss refuses to have it cleaned more often.
<If this is the case, I'd have your service install/utilize a chemical
filtrant... likely ChemiPure. See/read on WWM re>
I have at least talked him into getting a skimmer and I use nitrate filters.
Puffer hasn't eaten well in some time. Seems to have trouble swallowing and
takes food in over and over and over again. His mouth is hanging open wider than
usual, he paces and sometimes jerks. I have also noticed pink near the base of
his back tail and fin which I have read could be due to the clam only diet and
thiaminase deficiency. He refuses to eat a varied diet and leaves food lying at
the bottom of the tank which I clean out at the end of
each day so it doesn't add to the nitrate problem.
I also was soaking his food in Clam Max for nutrient value. Another issue is a
pink protrusion which appears to be his intestines. The guy that services our
tank said its his manhood??
<... no; nonsense. Are broadcast spawners, no internal fert. This is a prolapsed
Today he excreted a lot of yellow slime while the protrusion was hanging out. I
have attached a picture below of the protrusion from a month or so ago before
the pink started developing around his tail/fin. So several issues going on. The
tank appears crystal clear. Nitrate problem?
Thiaminase deficiency? Both?
<Perhaps both; but you are right/correct to be concerned. This fish and system
NEED immediate attention; else this Puffer will perish, and soon. The other
foods, vitamin additions, reducing nitrate!>
I am going to try to get my boss to purchase some vitamins and the frozen mix
you speak of and possibly some snails. I have saved this guys life several times
now so I'm not stopping now!
His main diet has been shrimp, krill once a week and clams on the half shell.
His breathing seems faster than normal, tail curled and hiding in the rocks.
Doesn't greet me anymore. :( Would appreciate any help you can offer.
<Please show your boss and service company person this mail; have them contact
me if there is confusion as to how to proceed. I do concur with what you're
written as plans going forward. Bob Fenner>
Avoiding Thiaminase 9/7/17
I read the article on Thiaminase and I found it very informative. I was
left with a question, what am I supposed to feed my porcupine puffer? I
see that there are some non-Thiaminase fish offerings, but puffers do
not eat fish.
<Mmm; assuredly they do. Have seen several species of puffers consume
fish in the wild and captivity>
It caused fatty liver disease over time.
<Do you have reference/s for this assertion? Your intuition,
It seems that everything I feed him is high in Thiaminase. Squid,
scallops, clam, mussel, oyster, shrimp is always in the mix. I do add
Boyd's Vita Chem to the food. Is this enough to counteract the effects
of the Thiaminase.
<To some extent; yes. B vitamins can be added to foods, water...>
I used to use Selcon, but the Boyd's seems to be a more complete multi
<I'd add in some whole (small) fishes or bits of fillet in this mix of
invertebrate fare. Bob Fenner>
Re: Avoiding Thiaminase 9/8/17
Thank you for the response.
<Glad that we're sharing Jason>
This is a quote from an article by Kylyssa Shay. Do you think that this
is not true in all cases? Maybe puffers cannot have fish as their main
diet, but can have it as part of a diet?
"Balloonfish are not piscivores. That means that, in nature, they don't
eat fish. Do not feed fish, live or dead, to them. Feeding fish to pork
puffers may cause something called fatty liver disease, a usually fatal
Not only that but the nutrient balance found in fish is very different
from that found in mollusks and crustaceans, their natural prey. Feeding
fish, especially live feeder fish, to your porcupine puffer can also
accustom him to eating fish, making him a danger to future tank mates.
Carefully read the ingredients of any prepared fish foods you give your
Choose those with invertebrates such as shrimp, krill, squid, clams, or
mussels listed as their first ingredient. Avoid all prepared fish foods
with any type of grain or fish meal listed first in the ingredients."
<Mmm; well... will have to look further for input; but though I agree
that Diodontids are principal feeders on hard-shelled invertebrates in
the wild; have seen them eat Seastars, fishes... BobF>
Re: Avoiding Thiaminase 9/15/17
This is a snap of the ingredients of the main food I feed all my fish.
There is some whitefish and Pollock in it which is on the no-thiaminase list.
Maybe this food is better than I thought??
<I suspect you'll be fine here w/ this mix; as long as it isn't overfed, and you
supplement with B vitamins. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine puffer emergency
Hi, I have a huge question...I have a porcupine puffer and I've had her for
14 years...she stops eating for days every once in a while.
<Not to worry; this is a "natural behavior". Please see here re:
Normal . my problem now is she hasn't eaten for a week, did a water change
thinking it was due which it was, 150 gallon nitrates 40 normal for her tank
no ammonia salinity 1.023 . I know she is old I'm worried maybe she
lockjaw, her mouth won't close all the way ,
<Yikes; not good>
but when I look inside it looks like something maybe stuck in there, she
gets clams in shells, etc. I do feed her frozen krill but not everyday, she
gets a lot of diff things....
I tried tube feeding her but she isn't having it, and it looks soft in her
moth like something blocked...hard to describe, here is a pic best I can
<Please read the above link AND:
I WOULD supplement any offered foods AND the water directly as gone over...
Re: Porcupine puffer emergency
So, I've read everything you said, and had already read that or knew
it....she is still not eating and I have tried to force feed her and it all
just comes back out...it's almost as if it is a soft bubble in her
<This fleshy bit in your pic is natural... Sometimes puffers just DO refuse
food... for weeks. This specimen doesn't appear overly thin. I would NOT
handle/force feed the specimen (too stressful), but instead soak grass,
ghost shrimp, smallish crayfish or such in a feeding supplement (HUFAs,
Vitamins) as SeaChem's Appevite>
like she puffed up and some part inside her mouth won't deflate,
<Again; this is part of the puffers anatomy>
I'm attaching the best pic I can get. It's been like at least 2 weeks of no
eating :( I think she knows what I'm trying to do when I get the tube and
stick it in her mouth because she lets me do it but she can't bite down on
it and she does not puff up ever when I try. The "bubble" is across her
whole mouth inside ...I've even tried a turkey baster and she open her mouth
really wide and let's me do it, then closed it all the way but then it goes
back to half open...and again she doesn't puff up so that's what's
getting me thinking she can't deflate inside somehow??
<More likely a B vitamin deficiency syndrome>
She had puffed up right before all this started im thinking now, for no
apparent reason which is how she always puffed up when she did.im very
stressed and with her being 14 years old, I think I'm stressing her out
<Yes to the added stress>
Porcupine Puffer Is In Bad Shape... nutr., plus poss. env.
Thank you for taking the time to read this, I'll start with the tank and
55G tank with 0's on all levels
<Mmm; not likely zip NO3>
78 Degrees50lbs of live rock1 damsel2 clowns2 small choc chip stars
<Not aquarium hardy>
1 coral beauty1 pseudo chromis and finally our 4inch porcupine puffer (I
know the tank is small, we have had him since he was 2inches, he will be
getting an upgrade to a 120 in about 6-8 months, he has had no problems
this tank so far)
About 6 months into owning this dude, we realized he shouldn't
be eating only krill.
We got him on mysis, scallops, squid, pellets, and then the occasional
krill. Recently, his appetite got a lot weaker, and now he isn't eating
at all. He has developed a hump on his back, and it doesn't feel hard,
but I don't think it's air either. He has a hard time swimming,
occasionally flipping or thrashing slightly. Today is the first day in
1.5 weeks he has even eaten a single bite. I held him gently in my hand,
and literally placed mysis in his mouth. He sucked it in, but spit
almost all of it back out. He only nibbled on the krill I tried. I don't
know if it's a parasite or what, a LFS says it's possibly an internal
injury and we might just have to let him work it out. What can I do, we
really love this guy and can't bear to lose him.
<I'd be supplementing (soaking) foods and adding directly to water... a
vitamin/HUFA mix... MicroVit, Selcon... these also acts as appetite
stimulants. Search the terms and READ on WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer Ingesting air 1/20/16
Again I turn to you for your infinite wisdom!
<Def. not infinite; and more like simple knowledge; recorded facts/FAQs>
This should be a quick question for you :-) Thanks to your site I've been able
to determine my puffer has been ingesting air and it's becoming trapped in his
intestines. I'm worried about his long term health, since he does this very
frequently. Your advice to other writers alluded to possible infections due to
dried out skin. I believe he's either a) gulping it at the surface when he's
scouring for food or b) getting it from the air stone which he loves playing in.
<Ahh; likely activities>
I've tried burping him several times following your instructions, but have never
seen bubbles. I'm assuming he just manages to work them out on his own since
some days the lump is gone, just to return a day or so later!
Just when you think you're in the clear...!
Do you have any suggestions for how I may help him avoid this reoccurring issue?
<Move the airstone to the back where the puffer can't get to it (behind rock?),
and start feeding it via tongs underwater>
Or perhaps am I wrong on my diagnosis. I'm sure he can't be to impressed with my
hands always around him poking and prodding.
Here's some background:
<Will need something larger in time>
50lbs live rock
1x porcupine puffer 5" (pic with lump)
1x blue spotty puffer (Toby)
1x two spot goby
2x turbo snail
3x baby hermit crab
1x blue tuxedo echinoderm
1x flower pot
1x hammer coral
1x unknown coral (pic)
Thanks so much!
Your biggest fan,
<Cheers dear; Bob Fenner>
Re: Porcupine Puffer Ingesting air
I will try your suggestions absolutely. When I checked on him this morning,
again, the lump was gone. So it in fact only appears on days where I
feed him, which is every other day. Followed by a day of no lump. I'm
currently feeding him brine shrimp, trying to slowly introduce him to new
<Oh yes; for sure. Artemia can be like a diet of cotton candy... Do see/read on
WWM re Diodontid feeding>
Hopefully I can find something that'll work and resolve this issue! I'm sure
he'll be delighted not to be constantly bobbing for apples or captured by my
giant hands haha.
Adieu mon ami!
<Ah, mon cher. Au revoir. BobF>
Porcupine Puffer Collapsed Eye?
Hello, just stumbled onto this site as I was frantically searching for an
answer to my problem. 2 days ago I noticed my Porcupine Puffer laying at
the bottom of my tank breathing hard. I have moved the little guy into a
separate tank and that's where he's been since then. He has not taken any
food no matter how hard I try to get him to eat. I've been stumped as to
what is causing this, today I noticed his eyes seem to have collapsed?
been browsing the internet to see what could be causing this but I have
to find anything. I've tried taking a picture but it isn't clear from the
picture what is going on with his eyes. Normally his eyes, the outer
"shell" looks like this, ). Looking at his eyes now only a tiny bit of the
center protrudes out, everything else is flat. There also seems to be
nothing wrong with the muscles in his eye as he is able to pull off all
regular eye movements. His eyes have also lost that glittery sheen to them
and his pupil is no longer circular in shape, instead it resembles a seed.
I'm going to keep looking to see what is going on but I was wondering if
maybe one of you have seen this kind of situation before?
<Yes.... need data... what other life is in this system? What do you feed?
What changes recently? Water quality tests.... See WWM re other Diodontid
health issues to gain an idea of the sorts of information we're looking
for. Bob Fenner>>
If so, what
should I do, and will he ever recover? The only thing of importance that
happened before I discovered my puffer laying at the bottom of my main
was a water and filter clean/change 2 days prior. Thanks for your time.
Re: Porcupine Puffer Collapsed Eye?
<Is there a full moon? 4.5 megs of uncropped pic>
Hello again, thanks for your quick response, my main tank after water
change parameters are Nitrites at 0-5.0 PPM, pH is 8.0, and Salinity is at
1.026. Other fish in this tank are a Blue Tang and a Comet Wrasse.
<All this is fine>
parameters for the Q tank that Puffer is in are comparable to my main
I feed the puffer a mix of cuttlefish, Krill, and Clams.
<Bingo... search on WWM re Thiaminase poisoning. BobF>
Usually he can't
stop eating but he hasn't taken anything for the past 2 days. I've also
managed to take a clear photo of whats happening to his eyes and have
Blind porcupine puffer 6/10/15
I haven't had much lucky with porcupine puffers for some reason
<Luck?... Most go blind from nutritional issues... fed too much krill,
silversides... Thiaminase... Some from too-bright lighting, ala Lionfishes>
...i love them very much, but cant seem to keep one longer than 8 months.
They just die for no reason. My latest one is a year old and was fine, then one
day acted like could see. He has now been acting blind for over a month with no
<Put the two words: "Puffer blindness" in WWM search tray (on every
page) and read>
He eats well when i put food into his mouth and is very active but tends to
always swim around the top of the tank. Im pretty sure he can see light n
shadows, but not actually see. He knows where to go for feeding time when the
pumps go off, and waits for someone to stuff food in his mouth..but other wise
spins around if food is near or i miss as he surely can smell
it. Eyes are clear, and normal with no damage. Tank is a 300g fish only with
artificial reef, running for 5 years. Tank mates include a yellow belly
dogface(been in tank for 5 yrs) stars n stripes puffer, indigo hamlet, Chromis,
desjardini tang, mated male female bi color angels, mated blue throat triggers
and two Columbian sharks(catfish). Sump is 100gal with vertex480 internal and a
Deltec external skimmer, along with twin external sulfur denitrators, each rated
at 900g. Ammonia0, nitrite0, nitrate <1.0 , alk 9, ph 8.1 .. The only problem
I've had with the tank in last few months was an alk drop and calc spike which i
corrected slowly over two weeks. Alk dropped to 4 and calc had risen to
<?! as in PPM?>
with Mag staying at below 1200. I originally assumed this was the cause and
corrected it, and it has been over a month and stable, but no improvement with
his eyesight. No other fish is having a problem. I make my own food
which is a mix of jumbo mysis, salad sized shrimp, squid, clam, Nori, mussel,
<This is the problem. See WWM re Thiaminase as well>
I add in garlic, vitamarinM, amino/omega, and angel elixir. Any suggestions?
<Reading, using WWM. Bob Fenner>
Question about Porcupine Puffer 2/2/15
Hi, I hope you can help me. I just wanted to ask you a question about my
Porcupine puffer fish. I have had him for 6 years and he is 12"
long. I would say at a guess that he is around 10-12 years old
as he was quite a good size when i got him. He seems constipated.
<A common issue with larger puffer species, specimens.... What
do you feed this fish? Have you read on WWM Re?>
I noticed 5 days ago that the lower part of his belly was quite big and
sticking out. You could see that he was trying to go to the toilet but
not able to go. He is swimming around as normal at night, and staying on
the bottom of the tank between his rocks during the day and does not
seem stressed, but is moping about a bit. I read on the internet that
peas are good as a laxative.
<MgSO4 much better>
I tried earlier with some peas (i took the outer skin off them) on one
of my food grabbers. He was not interested. He is not interested in any
of his food at the moment. I just wanted to double check with you, that
peas are ok for marine fish?
Is there any other things i can do for his blockage?
Some people on the internet say to try to get him in a container and
massage his belly. I cannot do this because he is big and heavy and i
don't want to chance him puffing up and stressing more or getting air in
him. I'm just stressed out because i have had him a long time and want
to do all that i can to get him better. I mainly feed cockles in
shell, mussels, superba krill, and lancefish. His favourite is the
shelled cockles though.
<Yikes... also see WWM re Thiaminase>
He always seems to crunch the shells fine and spit them out. Do you
think that maybe bit of shells could have gotten stuck in his stomach,
or even maybe a full cockle as his mouth is big. I would have thought
that in the wild they eat shelled things all the time and their stomachs
would deal with it ok?
Do they ever pass it naturally after a few days?
<Almost always; yes>
I know they can go quite a while without food and be ok. I'm hoping if
the peas are ok, then he will start feeding again soon. I can try to put
the peas into his food like the mussels. He last fed on Saturday 24th
January in the morning. Sorry about all the questions. I can't seem to
find much on the internet about what has happened to my puffer. I went
to the local vets
on Friday 30th January. That's the earliest the vet could see me. I
could not bring the puffer with me as he is big and i did not want to
stress him more. I took videos and photos to show the vet. He said he
could maybe x ray him which would be stressful for him or get liquid
paraffin down into him via a tube to make him throw up. Not sure if this
would work either,
because the lump seems to be far down near his back passage.
<There are other, more useful lavages for fishes>
My water parameters are great and all the other fish are fine. I hope to
hear back from you soon. Many thanks. Neil.
<Do you need help using the search tool (on every page) or indices on
Re: Question about Porcupine Puffer 2/3/15
Hi Bob, thanks a lot for the reply. I completely forgot to say in the
last message that i am currently doing Hyposalinity in my main tank that
had a break out of Ich. I have done it for 6 weeks and am just starting
to now bring the SG back up slowly over the next 2 weeks as the Ich is
completely gone now. Could this affect my puffer at all with a blockage
eating? Thanks again. Neil.
<Ah yes. BobF>
Porcupine Puffer Issues; hlth.; iatrogenic. No reading as
Hello, I recently got a porcupine puffer (About a month ago), and it was
eating great and acting normal
up until few days ago, when it contracted the itch.
After reading on itch and the puffer and learning that itch medication
tends to harm the puffer, I decided against medication.
<I'd try CP... as gone over on WWM, for Diodontids w/ Protozoan issues>
The itch resided and I thought everything was ok, as the puffer returned
When I went to feed the puffer today I noticed it was acting abnormal.
Usually when I step up to the tank, the puffer will swim out and hang
around near the surface of the water, waiting for me to feed it
<.... see WWM re Thiaminase. Krill is a very poor diet>
that has been thawed out). Today it never swam out. I decided to coax it
out with some food held near its usual resting place. My puffer swam out
and I noticed that both its eyes, were slightly cloudy, and it almost
seems like they pulse in and out every couple seconds. I also noticed
that the itch returned. After eating 2-3 Krill, the puffer lost all
interest in eating and I couldn't coax it with food anymore. My other
fish ( 1 Juvi Emperor Angel, 1 Yellow Tang, and 5 Banggai Cardinal
were acting as usual, and were enthusiastic in their feeding, none of
these fish contracted itch (the Emperor Angel did have a small bout, but
it went away within the day and has not resurfaced). I also have an
Anemone that was acting normal (got it 2 weeks ago) but as of today has
contracted. The only real thing I have changed recently, was my water,
and I finally managed to get an in tank skimmer (Has been running for 5
days). I have enclosed a Video of my puffer fish. You'll notice its
weird swimming and random jerking. Please let me know if you need
photo's or video of anything. Also where do I find your reply to this
<Where you'll be reading; on WWM>
On the FAQ or should I expect an email reply? Thanks for your time.
<Keep reading; the above. Bob Fenner>
- Tank levels on 01/01/15
- Calcium, 380-400 ppm
- Hardness, 1790197 ppm
- Phosphate, 0.5-1.0 ppm
- Nitrate, 0.0-.05 ppm
-Tank Levels on 01/20/15
- Calcium, 360-380 ppm
- Hardness, 297-214 ppm
- Phosphate, 1.0-2.0 ppm
- Nitrate, 5-10 ppm
Puffer Fish problems.mov
Re: Porcupine Puffer Issues... another non-reader
Hello, thanks for you speedy reply regarding issues with my puffer. I
did do more research after I sent my initial email and came upon the
Thiminase issue myself.
Your article regarding Thiminase was extremely helpful,
<Not very impressive as you're not spelling the condition
because like you said, there is not much information to go around. I
would like to know what diet I should be feeding my fish to avoid this
<Also posted on WWM... please learn to/use the search tool (on every
page) and/or indices.>
Currently only my puffer seems to be suffering as it is the only one
that eats the krill. The other fish in my tank are fed Frozen
<Also very poor>
and to not display any of the symptoms (Yet, after reading your article
I am worried that this will change). What do you think I should be
feeding my fish to help my puffer recover and to avoid this issue in the
Requesting help with porcupine puffer tooth/beak loss
I am writing as I have searched the web and your site and cannot find
any information on a porcupine puffer with a missing beak, or I am not
We have had our puffer for about seven years, in general his appetite is
good but over the last couple of weeks his eating has become sporadic. I
had noticed that he has been preferring scallops (unshelled) over
mussels which are usually his favorite.
<Both poor for steady diet...>
I did not think to check his beak until this evening, and while I normally
can see his beak, I cannot see anything in his mouth. I can look
straight into his mouth back to a flap that opens and closes as he
respires. The floor of his mouth is smooth back to his throat.
Also his lower lip/mouth area is discolored orange and looks a bit
<Mmm, could, would you send along a well-resolved pic or two?>
Can a puffer regrow their teeth?
<Yes; their teeth are constantly regenerating... being worn down as
If so what should I be doing in the meantime?
<Other foods... see WWM re Diodontids...>
What would be the underlying cause?
<Perhaps the Thiaminase aspect alluded to first here>
Please let me know what further information you require as I am not sure
what to send in.
<Mmm, just search and read I believe>
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Requesting help with porcupine puffer tooth/beak loss
Thank you for your response.
1.I read up on the Thiaminase issue, going to pick up vitamins today.
2.I also read about lockjaw, however all the reports I was reading
indicated the puffer could not open its mouth. In our case he does not
close his mouth.(see attached picture) Is it possible for his mouth to
be locked open?
<Have seen this... some sort of muscular paralysis... but don't think
this is Lenny's do here>
3.If it is lockjaw will he need to be force fed? I also read varying
advice on how long to wait before the last time he ate to attempt force
<I would hold off on this for now... a healthy Diodontid of size can go
weeks w/o feeding. Too much trauma, poss. damage from handling to
suggest it w/o real need>
4. Without a beak are they capable of eating?
5. Will try to get a clear picture of the inside of mouth to send as you
requested as well.
<Okay... but the ones you've sent will do... Yowch! Does look/appear
that this specimen IS missing its beak/teeth!>
6. In picture you can see his quills sticking up, seems that he can no
longer lay them flat, could this be related to the Thiaminase issue?
<I think it may well be all related... Somehow this fish has "knocked
out" and/or worn down its beak altogether... will regenerate in time...
Let's hope the vitamins do the trick. DO try good pelleted foods (New
Life/Spectrum, Hikari), of size pellets... this fish can/will take such
if/when trained (mainly by other fish's behavior)>
Porcupine Puffer black belly -- 12/08/10
Good Evening Crew,
Thank you all for your hard work and expert advice, and I apologize in
advance for the long read.
I have searched all over the web for the past two days, but I have not
been able to get a lot of information. I have a 4inch porcupine puffer
in a 100 gallon FOWLR tank. He is currently in there alone. A week ago
he had a false percula clownfish with him, but I noticed that the clown
was a bit too small (about an inch) and without risking the clown
turning into a snack, I decided to return him. The porcupine puffer was
quarantined in a 10 gallon hospital tank for about 3 weeks, as I
treated him for Ich.
<With what medication, treatment?>
He has been in the main tank for about 2 weeks now.
All water parameters are fine, salinity 1.023, ph is 8.0.
In the beginning he was fine, showing no signs of stress. The past 3-4
I noticed his belly was getting darker (as the article on your website
by Justin Petrey states, a white belly is a happy belly, as a result of
this I made it a habit of mine to check his belly every time I saw
him). His belly went from all white to practically all black. His belly
doesn't have any "spots" but rather, is a full
grayish-black . The only white part of his
belly is the spines, as they are white and I don't think they
Is this simply a form of stress? from what?
<Likely so and from the treatment, quarantine... and possibly
"loneliness" in the 100>
is it possible he still feels cramped in the 100 gallon, due to the
formations of live rock in there? (as in if the rocks are too cramped
together, I have 140 pounds of live rock in there).
<Not likely, no>
The tank is 6 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 3 feet high.
<Mmm, this is more than 100 gallons>
Maybe the tank isn't wide enough and he's feeling
claustrophobic? Just mentioning this because other people have
mentioned that simply changing the decor inside the tank has sometimes
perked up their porcs.
In the beginning he was swimming everywhere, checking out the whole
tank, but as soon as his belly started turning black, he seems to only
stay on the left side of the tank. He comes to the top when I feed him,
which is mainly shrimps.
<Do see WWM re these animals proper nutrition... and the need to
avoid Thiaminase-loaded foods as sole feeds>
He does eat muscles, and clams, but that seems to depend on mood.
Sometimes he'll happily eat whatever I feed him (I try to vary his
diet), but most of the time he won't accept anything other than
<Needs to be trained off these, onto other foods>
He is still eating, but lately right after eating, he seems to start
breathing quite heavily, and tends to just settle on the substrate,
tucking his fins in, almost "curled up". Could this be
<Is a possibility, yes>
Also, before adding him into the quarantine tank, I did a fresh water
dip, Half-way through his treatment I did a freshwater dip, and before
adding him to the main tank, I did a fresh water dip. If there were
worms/flukes on him, they should have died from the freshwater dips
<Mmm, no... external ones perhaps, but internal, not. You may want
to administer an antihelminthic in its food... Prazi likely>
It feels like he is getting worse and worse each day, and I'm not
even quite sure what the problem is.
Thanks for your time, and your input.
<Do give the above items a read, and please re-contact us if you
have further questions/concerns. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer with breathing problems... Poor env.,
nutr... reading 5/23/10
Hi, I have a porcupine puffer, he's been with us for around a year,
he lives alone in a 35 gallon tank.
<Too small a volume...>
He usually has seems to be fine, swimming around all day. We feed him
with little fishes like mollies or similar.
<... insufficient nutritionally>
A couple of weeks ago, he started to get slow at catching his food and
since a couple of days ago he's just lying in the bottom of the
tank and it seems he has trouble breathing. When he finally catches his
food, it took him some
time to swallow it, when normally it didn't.
All water parameters are perfect: ammonia 0, KH 12, PH 8, nitrite
Also, his stomach appears to be sunken.
What can we have?
<A need to read: http://wetwebmedia.com/trupufsysfaqs.htm
and the linked files above on Feeding, Disease/Health... Bob
Thanks in advance for your help!
Re: Porcupine Puffer with breathing problems -
Bob, thanks for your advice. To start we are tried to feed him with
something from the sea, the problem is that he usually doesn't eats
anything that is already dead, he likes to catch his food.
<... can be trained to accept most any foods>
We put a shrimp into a raw spaghetti and moved it into the water but he
didn't buy it and didn't eat it... I have been reading and I
think that we need to force feed him, but how can we do that?
<See WWM... the search tool... linked on all left shared borders
with this question, read the cached views>
Is it safe for us to touch him? What if he gets puffed?
<I would try other foods first... these fishes can go for several
weeks w/o feeding if in good shape initially... Again, keep reading.
We are very worried cause he's looking bad...
Re: Porcupine Puffer with breathing problems - 5/23/10
Bob, thanks for your comments and references to the website, it has
been very useful. We force fed the fish and he's looking a lot
<Ah, good. Bueno>
We are planning to do this at least for this week, while he gets better
and then start training him to eat dead food, we don't want to let
him starve when he looks so weak.
Your website is wonderful, I haven't seen it before this weekend
and I have learned a lot this last couple of days reading everything.
Thank you so much for helping all of us with all your knowledge!
Greetings from Costa Rica to you and your colleagues at WWM!
<Ahh! Have been there... the capital, and up and down the Pacific
coast... once to Limon... have friends living in the Guanacaste
<Nos vemos, BobF>
Porcupine Puffer, hlth., nutritionally mediated
I have a porcupine puffer, just about a year old, with one swollen,
cloudy eye. He can't see well, he won't eat much, but he's
not lethargic; would this still account for cloudy eye?
<Could very likely be involved>
The causation of this "condition," whatever it might be, is
most likely attributed to his diet (he will eat NOTHING but shrimp, not
even ghost shrimp, pellets, flakes, NOTHING).
<This also is a/the factor... you can/need to starve, wean this fish
onto a better diet... or else it will surely perish>
The water quality is excellent and always has been- we've had a
Niger Trigger and a Blue Tang for almost 20 years now; also, it's
my Dad's fish tank and I don't know the specifics, to be
Tank size: >120 g.
Ave temp: 78F
Other fish: 2 dominos, 2 damsels, 1 yellow tang, 1 blue tang, 1 niger
trigger, 1 coral beauty (which I JUST discovered has a swollen eye- pop
eye?), 1 rock beauty, a snail, and a butterfly something or other; all
but the coral beauty is perfectly fine.
I don't know if I should force feed him vitamins or antibiotics.
<Please read, and have your father read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Sick porcupine puffer - 06/05/09
I have a porcupine puffer who is approximately 4 years old and 10"
He is the lone fish in a 75 gallon salt water aquarium. He has been in
this tank for the last 3 years. I have checked the water parameters and
all seem well within normal ranges. He was up and feeding on Saturday
but would come up buy not eat on Sunday or Monday. Today he is staying
in the corner of the tank that he likes and only comes up when I
<Mmm, not atypical cyclic behavior>
When he swims he appears to list to the right and has some problem when
he comes to the surface - as if he will turn over backward.
I don't see any problems with his skin or his eyes and he responds
to me but is obviously in distress over something. As you can imagine I
am very attached to him and want to do everything I can to keep him
around a while.
If you have any suggestions I would welcome them. I have kept salt
water fish for years but this is my first puffer.
<Well... should be in a larger volume... I would opt for trying to
improve this animal's nutrition and physical environment for now...
Perhaps a bag of "frozen sea food" mix with defrosted items
soaked in Selcon or such...
And moving a bit of the decor about, adding some new/er live rock. Bob
sick porcupine puffer, hlth./induced blindness,
reading 2/26/09 Hi my name is Eric, and my
porcupine which i have had for 2 years now has become sick. The
tank is 60 gallons <Too small> and the puffer has been in
there the whole time. There is also a Foxface rabbit which is
doing very well and has also been in since the start, and a small
coral hogfish that i purchased around 6 months ago. The tank has
a good amount of live rock a few Mexican turbo snails and some
hermit crabs. i run a power head, 2 Aquaclear 500's and a
backpack 2 skimmer. The tank stays at 81 degrees, i do water
changes at least once a month, the ph is 8.2, ammonia is 0 and
nitrates are 10 to 20. The salinity is 1.027. <A bit high>
The problem i am having started about 2 months ago when the
puffers eyes got hazy and he seemed to not be able to eat his
food. He looked hungry and came to the top of the tank but when
he went to eat it he would keep missing it. <Too typical>
Before this he was a very big eater, however he would only eat
frozen krill. I was instructed by the pet center i deal with to
try Furan 2, <... no> after doing a cycle of that his eyes
cleared up a bit and he would eat small amounts but still had
trouble finding the food. A few weeks later his eyes hazed again
and he has had no luck at all finding the food. I began using
VitaChem with the food <Good> as well. Just within the past
few days i have noticed that he is at the bottom breathing very
heavy and he began to develop a purplish gray area on the rear of
his tail section. Today I looked at him and saw that the
discoloration has moved up his body and is covering almost half
of him and the rear discolored area looks like its dying with
very bad skin and tail rot. Any help would be appreciated. I have
attached a picture as well. thanks Eric Vozzella <Mmm... this
smacks of a long-term nutritional deficiency... Might be able to
be reversed, maybe not... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishfdgfaqs.htm and the linked files
where you encounter them, lead yourself... Adding a refugium,
mud, algal culture, DSB... all would help... Bob Fenner>
|Re: sick porcupine puffer 2/26/2009 Thanks for
the help bob, however he did not even make the night, very sad
loss! <Ahh! These are very personable animals... intelligent as
Skinny Porcupine Puffer... Stunted due to... Env. and?
-- 02/19/09 Hi, <Chris> I have a porcupine puffer
(Diodon holacanthus) and I've had her for about 2 years now and she
is about 3-4 inches long at this point. <... small> I can't
help but notice that she is far thinner than most other fish of her
species that I've seen (online, in pet stores and at friends'
houses). Instead of being fuller with a slight taper towards the tail,
she has a distinct tear-drop shape with a really skinny body.
<Mmmm> I feed her 2 cubes of frozen food every other day and that
food is everything from Emerald Entre to Marine Cuisine and Brine
Shrimp. Is there something she is missing in her diet that is keeping
her from growing fatter? <Possibly... or perhaps there's summat
else at work here... Internal parasites, genetic, behavioral issues,
even aspects of environment, water quality...> Below is the
information about my tank and various levels. 55 Gallon <Too small
eventually... and this could be a source/factor... read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GrwLmtChems.htm > with a
salinity of 1.020. <Too low... also a poss. influence> Nitrites
and Alkalinity are in the safe range according to my test strips and
Ammonia is less than 0.25 <Must be zero... See WWM re tests... here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/mtstmethds.htm and the linked files above>
while the Nitrites are high at 80-160. <Nitrates... not NO2... WAY
too high... def. a factor... http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm and
the linked files above.> Thanks <There may be others... but the
environment here is definitely faulty. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer Skin Problems 12/3/08
Good evening, <Morrow for me here, now. Good day to
you in any case/time frame> I have used your site numerous times to
troubleshoot many different fish/aquarium topics, but I cannot find the
answer to my most recent question and find it worthy of a post.
<Good> My Porcupine Puffer that I have had in a 100 gallon live
rock aquarium for 6 months has started to show signs of skin problems
and I can't find the issue posted or even mentioned on any forum.
It appears that the fish is molting/shedding from between the eyes to
the dorsal fin. <Mmm, Diodontids (and Tetraodontids...) do
"shed" their skin quite a bit...> The typical olive/brown
coloring has given way to what appears to be a new, whiter layer of
skin/scale still exhibiting the camouflage characteristics, just in a
lighter shade. Now I've searched and know that puffers do not have
scales and from what I can tell therefore do not shed/molt.
<Actually...> I'm wondering if this is a treatable disease or
in general any advice you can provide for this situation. Tank specs:
100 gallon overflow with a 25 gallon sump, Red Sea protein skimmer and
carbon filtration. Tank Mates: Yellow Tang Maroon Gold Stripe Clown
Candy Hogfish Picasso Trigger 75 lbs live rock Thank you for your
assistance <Mmm... well, this condition can be due to, here's
that word again, just "stress"... it may be the Trigger,
Clown and even the Tang are working this fish woe... The second, and
possibly larger co-factor with these puffers is nutritional. Very often
they are lost to avitaminoses... and hence, the call to supplement
their foods, provide a myriad diet to hopefully avoid such dietary
lacks. IF you have other quarters to situate this specimen in, I would
move it... to counter/check the possibility of harassment... And I
would definitely mix the diet up here, try soaking all foods in a HUFA,
vitamin mix... like MicroVit, Selcon... Bob Fenner>
Re: Porcupine Puffer Skin Problems 12/3/08 Bob,
<Hello again Jay> Thank you very much for your prompt reply. I
will probably go with the isolation route to see if it is stress,
although the puffer is larger than all his tank mates it is also
slower. I am glad to hear that "shedding" is actually not as
rare as I had feared, there was just nothing I could find pertaining to
this when searching. <Interesting... am going to try the Google
search on WWM with the terms: "Puffer Skin Shedding": Please
B&hl=en or try this yourself. Oh, and do look at the "cached
views"... in your searches... the search terms are highlighted...
much easier to find.> I currently feed, frozen shrimp, Mysis, and
krill in a rotation of days and work in a home made blend of clam,
scallop and squid that should all provide a pretty good variety.
<Mmm, actually... these are too high in fat, cholesterol for a
strict diet, and do lack essential vitamins et al.... I would mix in
some fish flesh here, even whole fish (e.g. Silversides), and provide
some/newer live rock for casual consumption on a continuous basis>
I'm guessing crab and snail are my next choices as far as diet, but
meanwhile I'll begin supplementing with a vitamin mix and may
attempt to add some to my "house blend" next time I'm
mixing. <Do look into the "frozen mixed seafood", often
offered as "frutti de mar" and such, in your frozen food
depts.... Very inexpensive compared to labeled foodstuffs for fishes...
and a good mix (shells on) for your puffer and other fishes> I very
much appreciate your response and the service that you provide. <I
am very glad to assist you and your efforts. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Blind Porcupine Puffer 6/23/08 Two nights ago the
bubblers in my salt-water tank stopped working, and when I got up the
next morning, one of my fish was dead, and all the others at the bottom
of the tank gasping. <Yikes> I put in an emergency bubbler, and
turned on my supplementary bubblers, and did a water change. (I was
scheduled to do a water change over the weekend, anyway.) Well, aside
from the one fish being dead already, everybody seemed to recover,
except now I think my porcupine puffer is blind. So now I'm worried
he'll starve to death because he can't see his food. <Mmm,
not likely just from this... and likely the apparent blindness is
reversible> Is there anything I can do to help him? I don't want
to watch him starve to death. He's my favorite fish, and I'm
totally sick that this happened. Thanks. Rabin' <Try training
this Puffer to come to the surface... in a corner... wiggling a meaty,
intact food item... like a shrimp, krill in the water. It will learn
quickly what you're up to. Bob Fenner>
Urgent Help please. With Spiny Boxfish. --
6/17/08 Yesterday ( Sunday ) my children brought me a Spiny Boxfish
for Fathers day which I wanted. <Yikes, oh good> However I
noticed that one eye is clouded over and the other eye has little
specks of cloudiness on it. I have read about this and realise that
Spiny boxfish can suffer from eye infections. <Yes... quite
common... Mostly due to (prior) physical damage> Can you advise me
on what to do , Is this an easy problem to correct or does it normally
end in blindness? <Normally self-heals given good water quality,
care...> My tank is a Trigon 350 and I have a Volitans Lionfish a
Yellow Tang , Lipstick tang , Blue Damsel , Foxface , Grouper , 2
Maroon Clownfish with Anemone and a Green Brittle starfish all doing
very well with no problems. I have just brought a Ro-man to supply my
self with Ro water. <Good> Basically I would to keep the Boxfish
and help him recover but if from your experiences this isn't an
easy problem to solve then it might be better to take him back to the
Shop where it was purchased from. I am more than willing to purchase
medicine and administer it in my tank however I do have some corals and
Live rock which could well be disturbed. Thank you very much for your
time. Phil. <I urge patience here; keeping this fish in your likely
much better cared for circumstances. Perhaps the soaking of favored
foods (you may have to teach all to feed on one side of the tank, the
puffer on t'other...) in Selcon or such... to aid healing/boost the
immune system. Bob Fenner>
Blind porcupine puffer... env., nutr.?
03/19/2008 Tank history and test results..... My tank is 120 or 125
gallons still trying to figure it out. Here are my test results: amm.
0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5-10 (colors so close I can't tell the
difference) PH 8.4, Temp 79-80 KH 200-400ppm, phosphates 1,
<High> salinity 1.021. <Mmm, I'd raise this> The tank
is an upgrade has been running for about 4 months. All decor and
filters were transferred to the tank with the upgrade. Before the
upgrade the tank was running for 3 months. It went from freshwater and
was slowly raised to saltwater. I took my time in raising the salinity
over a period of 4 months. I started with 2-GSP's, after raising
the tank to saltwater I added a Porcupine Puffer, another 2 weeks went
by and I added a stars & stripes puffer. I don't have any
corals in the tank, just live rock. The GSP's are both about
3.5", the Porcupine Puffer is about 3-4" and the Stars &
Stripes is about 5-6". Currently on the tank I have 2 powerheads,
1 HOB filter, a heater, a protein skimmer, new wet/dry. On Sunday I
switched two canister filters out for the wet/dry. I had 2 HOB filters
on the tank but moved one to a qt this morning for my porcupine puffer.
The Story: On Friday March 14th, I fed my puffers they all ate well,
very well. My porcupine (the one in question) did what she normally
does and went to her spot and took a nap. March 15th- My porcupine
puffer was still in the same spot that morning which did not worry me
yet. That afternoon when I got home she still had not moved. Now
getting a little worried. March 16th-Porcupine puffer still in the same
spot, only moving her fins and laying on the sandbed. I noticed that
her eyes were not as glossy as they should be. Starting to get more
worried at this point. Had planned to remove the two canister filters
that were on the tank and replace it with the wet/dry. Did a 25% water
change and switched the two canisters for the wet/dry. The initial
blast from the wet/dry caused about a million bubbles to go into the
tank but after about 30 seconds the bubbles were gone. The water was
clear again. The porcupine never moved from her spot the whole time. I
did not transfer media from the canisters to the wet/dry because I had
the two established hob filters with sponges still on the tank. March
17th- Checked my water that morning, no signs of a mini cycle.
Porcupine still has not moved. Came home that evening she swam around
very little and not very far. Checked my water again that evening still
no signs of a mini cycle. March 18th- The porcupine puffer was swimming
around this morning, but instead of searching for food, she was bumping
into everything, even the other puffers. Her eyes look hazed over more
today than the last few days. After moving her into a qt, so that she
would not hurt herself, I noticed this lump on her side that I
haven't seen before. It's about the size of a peanut and
causing her spines to stick up. Just about two weeks ago she had these
odd spots on her fin and so did the Stars & Stripes. She has had
them before and they seem to just go away without meds. Well again they
went away without any meds. I don't know if these two things are
related or not but thought I should mention it. <Good to mention>
Well that pretty much brings us up to date. Sorry for the book I just
wrote but I wanted to give all the details so that maybe, just maybe I
can figure out what is wrong with her. Here are a few pictures that I
took this morning: Picture of the lump
Another picture of the lump
Picture of her hazy eyes
<Mmm, me neither... from the data presented. Such blindness and
lumpiness episodes are too-common amongst spiny puffers though... some
environmental and nutritional inputs... Please read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishdisfaqs.htm and the linked files above.
Ill/Malnourished Porcupine Puffer - 12/13/07
<Hi, Pufferpunk here> I have had a Porcupine puffer for almost a
year now. Just recently he has just been sitting on the bottom of the
tank only moving around when I come near the tank. I have fed him
Mysis shrimp, krill, squid and brine shrimp but now the only thing he
will touch is the krill and even then he will chew it up and spit it
out wasting more than he eats. <How are his teeth? Puffer's
natural diet consists of crustaceans that are crunchy. I would bet his
main staple is the easiest to feed: krill. Even the other foods you are
feeding him should be soaked in a good quality vitamin like Selcon.
Here is a good list of puffer foods:
> He is housed in a 180 gallon aquarium. pH 7.8, ammonia .25,
nitrite 0, nitrate 10. The lionfish he is housed with seems to be doing
fine. Should I try feeding some live food, maybe ghost shrimp or live
brine? <Neither have much nutrition, as they are mostly water unless
gut-loaded with some kind of food. ANY ammonia at all is a problem
& extremely toxic to your fish. You need to find the cause of
ammonia. There should be none in an established tank. Whether it be
uneaten food or an expired, smaller fish, you need to do a thorough
cleaning under & around all decor with several water changes, to
remedy the problem.> Also, what kind of snails would he eat? He is
paler than normal and also is breathing a little harder than normal.
<This could be because of the malnutrition from his present diet. My
other concern would be if he got stung by your lionfish.> Would it
be beneficial to move him to a quarantine tank? I have a 100 gallon
that is cycled with nothing in it. <It might be a good idea to
separate him from the lion & the ammonia.> Also, I have treated
the tank with garlic, this seemed ineffective. <Try soaking the
other kinds of foods listed in the link above in the garlic (and
vitamins) to entice his eagerness to try something new.> Please
help, I would be devastated if I were to loose him. I am going to get
some salt and do a water change to try and bring down the ammonia and
nitrate and bring up the pH. Could this be the problem? If it was,
wouldn't the lionfish be affected too? <Maybe, I would think
they would be as sensitive to ammonia problems as a puffer, which is
why I have a concern for the puffer possibly having gotten stung. I
hope he comes out of this a healthy, long-lived puffer! ~PP> Thanks
Re: Ill/Malnourished Porcupine Puffer 12/13/07 <Hi
there, I was hoping you might have noticed my corrections of your first
letter. As written in a page on how to contact the WWM Crew:
"PLEASE take the time to go over your messages to us...Common
courtesy, a desire to serve as proper examples... should compel you to
capitalize the beginnings of sentences, proper nouns, run your
spell-checker... re-read your posts for clarity, completeness. Of the
hours per day spent responding to, "moving around"
"FAQs" this activity takes up the most time and is most
onerous. Do help us help you here by reviewing, correcting your input
as all content is answered, then posted on this website and read over
MANY times by others." You sound like a nice person but his is the
last one I will correct. The first letter took me almost 10
minutes.> Should I be feeding him every other day still or should I
try feeding him every day to get the vitamins in him faster? <I
suggest daily, until you see improvement.> I did 2 25% water changes
over the last 2 days and seemed to help with the ammonia and nitrate.
<That's great! Keep them up & do larger water changes if
necessary, to keep the ammonia & nitrite at 0 & nitrate below
20 (below 10 is even better).> I have been doing 50% monthly water
changes would I be better off doing smaller weekly water changes or
even daily water changes? <Without a sump & refugium to keep
your parameters steadier & lower, you need to do whatever water
changes necessary to keep them from becoming toxic. I did 50% weeklies
on my tank, until I added these extras to my system.> I tried to
feed him some ghost shrimp that were soaked in vitamins but he totally
ignored it but ate the krill. Also he is somewhat eating clams and
squid. <Wonderful!> He seems to be getting skinny. How long will
he be able to survive with these eating habits? He's been like this
for about 5 days now. <Puffers can go quite some time without eating
but it sounds like it's been a long time since this puffer has
gotten proper nutrition. Keep trying to get him to eat healthy &
soak his food in garlic in addition to the vitamin, to boost his
appetite.> Also, his teeth look good to me but I really don't
know what to look for but they seem fairly short. I appreciate any
help. <Generally, the Diodon holacanthus species rarely have
dentistry problems but I was concerned because of his previous diet. It
doesn't seem to be a concern though. So keep up with the water
changes & better diet & I think he'll pull through.
Sick Porcupine Puffer?? 12/9/07 I
have had my Porcupine Puffer for about 8 months now and has been doing
great up until 3 days ago he has become very inactive and seems to be
breathing harder than normal and pale in color. He is still eating
Krill and Mysis shrimp. <If this is all he is eating, it may well be
the source of his apparent problem. Feeding a puffer only Krill and
Mysis for a long time will assuredly result in deficiency
diseases'¦ imagine exclusively eating rice crackers for half a
year. Puffers should be fed a varied diet of mussels, clams, snails,
shrimps, crabs etc. ('¦and squid from time to time). Also add
vitamins to provide some nutrients that might have been lost during
freezing/thawing. Anyway, it is a good sign he is still eating. > I
have him housed in a 180 gallon tank with a 90 gallon sump. <Good
system size for Diodon holocanthus.> Also, he is housed with a 8
inch lionfish and a 18 inch moray eel both of which seem to be fine.
Should I be worried or is he just going threw <through?> a stage?
<The elevated breathing and colour change would make me worried.
Possibly his immune system is down and infections may gain a foothold
now.> Water quality checks out to be good. <Numbers? Check the
nitrates. If they are 20 or higher bring them down with adequate water
changes.> I know my lionfish will sometimes go a week every now and
then with out eating when he is "shedding" <'¦ to
remove any hitchhikers'¦ sometimes triggered by a decline in
water quality or by parasites'¦ check both if the
'shedding' occurs often.> Do puffers go through a stage when
they are inactive like this? <No, this sounds more like a
nutritional problem as described above.> There is about 75 pounds of
rock in the tank. Any help would be appreciated. <Change the diet,
add vitamins, check the nitrates and maybe your puffer will get well
again. I wish you luck! Marco.>
Very very sick porcupine puffer, needing to read re
sys., fdg.... 8/30/07 I have a 90 gallon salt
water tank. <Too small...> My porcupine puffer ate alot <No
such word> of krill <Insufficient diet> for about 8 months and
was always in great shape. Over the last 6 weeks when he tries to eat
he kind of spits the shrimp back out with alot of air bubbles and would
try a few more times and give up. I started breaking it up in smaller
pieces and once in a while would eat a little. He always wanted it but
had trouble. Until today he was still swimming around the top of the
tank. Tonight he is on the bottom, kind of curled up and breathing
heavy. He also seems very pale with white undertones. I am afraid he
wont make it through the night. what can I do? Thanks Dean <Read.
Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm the linked files
above. Bob Fenner>
Porcupine Puffer 1/31/06 Please help me - I have
had my porcupine puffer for about 11 years. He stopped eating about a
week ago and is just lying at the bottom of the tank hardly moving.
<A heart break> He seems to only move once or twice a day purely
to turn around but still remaining in one corner at the bottom of the
tank. He went blind about two years ago (not because of poor water
condition) so we hand feed him with a tong. He usually eats whole
mussels and cockles. We have put food into his mouth but he just spits
it out again. I can see him getting thinner and feel so helpless. The
water levels are fine and our other two fish (Regal and Powder Blue
Tang) are fine. We examined his teeth as he lets you hold him in the
water and they seems fine. He has no other visible signs of disease or
injury. Any help would be very much
appreciated. We buy our water
already salted from our local marine shop. We run two tanks the other
being a reef system. The fish in that are fine and water levels are
also good so I don't think it can be anything to do with that.
Although we did do a 20% water change when he started to not eat as a
precaution but had no effect. Also all
three fish get on very well and we never see any signs of bullying or
distress in any of the fish. Many
thanks Marie <Do please see WWM re
force-feeding these fishes. My Google search:
This is what I would (plan to) do here. Good luck, life to you. Bob
Porc Puffer not
eating, lack of info... 1/13/06 We need your help. <<I
will try>> My son has a saltwater fish tank in his
house <<What size?>>...has had it for several years...all
fish are healthy.<<A list of inhabitants would be
helpful>> Except--his porcupine puffer fish has
suddenly stopped eating. It comes to the top of the
tank, all excited, wanting to eat and then just seems to
"jab" at the food. It has always had a good
appetite. He has been eating
krill. It's so
heartbreaking. At times it seems to head to the
bottom corner of the tank and gasp a
little. Anything we can do? <<What
are the readings for Ammonia, nitrItes, nitrAtes and pH in this tank?
Your son's puffer, Diodon Holocanthus, can grow to 19" and
will need a tank of at least 125 gallons at maturity. Does
he show signs of trying to open his mouth and is not able
to? An all krill diet has been linked to 'lock
jaw'. Essentially, your puffer needs a more varied diet,
and probably larger quarters. Often, an iodine supplement
will ease the lock jaw enough to facilitate better
feeding. Please do get back to us regarding the questions
above. Lisa>> Thank you!
Porcupine puffer disease diagnosis... unsuitable water quality,
copper exposure, - 01/12/2006 Hello, Your web site seems
quite helpful in disease diagnosis, so I hope you can
help. I have a 100 gal. saltwater tank that I have had for
about 8 months and have had the porcupine puffer for about 7 or
so. The problem is that he has not eaten anything in the
last 2 weeks, he is still very active and always greets me with
excitement. <... have you read on WWM re feeding puffers,
Diodontids?> The water quality is good salt 1.022 <I would raise
this to near seawater strength... 1.025> ammonia 0, nitrites 0,
nitrates less than forty <Keep under twenty...> as far as can
tell. I do use copper in the recommended dosage <Stop!
This is toxic to your livestock... should not be used on a continuous
basis... some folks think never on puffers... can/will account for the
non-feeding by itself> and have so since I have had the tank.
<This is a mistake> He shows no external signs of disease, he
acts hungry when I bring his feeding cup around but when i
put the shrimp in he goes for it once or twice then just lets it fall
to the bottom. Before I could barely feed my bottom feeder
because he would eat everything I put it. I know I need to
vary his diet other than shrimp but as of now he does not want to eat,
food suggestions would be helpful. The damsel, sailfin, and
snowflake eel are all happy/healthy fish. I don't know what to do
he does not match any disease charts he just wont
eat. Thanks <... not a disease, unless you consider
iatrogenic/induced, poor supplied circumstances as cause... Read on my
friend. Your answers are on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Re: Porcupine puffer - 01/12/2006 Will drive in to
town, to pick up the Selcane <Selcon> today, is the iodine
included in it? <No, it is strictly a vitamin supplement rich in
HUFAs.>We have been soaking the frozen brine, chopped up silversides
and krill in the garlic extreme, so am I to mix the Selcane
<Selcon> and Iodine in the soaking solution. <I would
alternate between the garlic and Selcon.> Yes the Nitrate
is/was off the charts with the 5 gallon water change every three days
it has been "coming back" I (the local fish store said the
nitrates wouldn't hurt any of the fish).
<Indirectly they can with high levels. The
nitrate will end up as dissolved organics which in turn creates an
acidic condition which lowers ph levels. With high nitrate
levels I suggest you test the dKH often. Sea Chem's Reef Builder is
a good product to use.> I will write down exact ranges on all the
tests today and get back to you. It was great to see that
lots of people with puffers feel the same as I do, they are wonderful
pets. <And a very intelligent fish to boot.> Thank you for your
service. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Marcia
Re: Selcon and Plankton 1/19/06 James, the
Selcon has finally arrived. <Finally> I soaked some frozen brine
shrimp in it last night and the Puffer ( BUBBA) ate maybe 3 tiny
brines, the tank clouded for a while,
<All that is needed is about four drops on the frozen brine, should
not cloud water enough to matter.> and I am assuming he is getting
the benefit of the vitamins by just being in the water, (does he drink
the water)<Not nearly as well as ingesting it. They
don't drink water as such.>
We also bought some refrigerated marine plankton (sp?) and have been
putting a dropper full a day in the tank he seems to somedays want to
swim into it so I think he is getting some nutrition from
it. This morning I soaked the plankton in the Selcon and
dumped it in. Is this giving him some benefit?
<If he is eating it.> Should I be also medicating him with
Iodine? If yes, how much, how often. <Just do the dosage rate on the
bottle, no need to medicate him directly and by all means
don't.> Also, he has not eaten any of the ghost shrimp as far as
I can tell. We are still doing 10 gallon water change every 3-4 days,
tank seems healthier .thank you again. <You're welcome and I
hope your puffer pulls through. James (Salty Dog)>
Puffer Sick... more mis-matched titles...
1/19/06 James, Could you guesstimate how long it might take for the
vitamins (Selcon) to help him?
<Geez, that would be like you asking me how long your cold will
last. Without him eating the chances for recovery aren't
going to be good.>
A week, 2 weeks, a month? In general he seems to feel better but is
still not eating.. He doesn't seem to 'flip-out' as much
these last few days when everyone else is eating. <Hope for the
best. James (Salty Dog)>
Porcupine Puffer Problem My Porcupine Puffer has developed a
swollen and discolored area at his left fin/gill area. The area is now
a purplish color, resembling a large bruise. <Might well
be> I have noticed reduced activity in recent days, with the Puffer
remaining among the coral until about an hour prior to feeding time, at
which time it will swim throughout the tank like normal (It used to
swim most of the day, resting at night). Eating (until yesterday) was
normal - the fish is an aggressive eater of Krill and I have to feed it
in a separate part of the 250 gallon tank to keep the puffer occupied
while the other fish eat. <I do hope you are feeding it more than
just Euphausiids> Yesterday the puffer did not appear for feeding
and remained isolated in the coral. I also noticed at its last feeding
that their appeared to be an extrusion in the rectum area, but this has
since disappeared. <A prolapse in fancy jargon... happens> I am
putting it in an hospital tank, but am unclear as to what/how to
treat. Any advice on what this might be would be helpful and how
it can be treated. The puffer shares the tank with nine other
fishes (3 damsels, one dogface puffer, one wrasse, one fox face, one
tang, one Heniochus, and one harlequin tusk fish). <If these other
fishes appear otherwise non-affected, I would rule out other
environmental causes here... the fish may have suffered a mechanical
injury, compounded with nutritional deficiency... Please read over WWM
re puffer health, nutrition... I would not move, keep the fish in a
separate, small treatment system... Bob Fenner>
Puffer Lockjaw - rough prognosis 1/30/05 I
don't want to repeat what you have answered many times on the
website already, but I'd was hoping you had an update on your
research. Magnus has replied to a few people with Puffers with Lockjaw
and said he, along with others, were doing some serious research in to
the issue. <Anthony Calfo in your service> Mine is swimming and
acting as normal. Goes to eat the food (gets excited as always) but
seems to either not get quite close enough (like he's mis-judged
it) or swims in to it, but doesn't open his mouth to eat, then
spits the food away. I've also seem him "shake" as he
tried to work open his mouth. I'm trying iodine and I've upped
the vitamins I'm adding to the tank (I always add some vitamins to
his food). <believe it or not... try thawed frozen peas too... many
Tetraodontiformes love them> Water quality is generally very good
and has been for 18 months upwards, with 0 Ammonia, 0 nitrite and
nitrates varying from 20 to 40. Skimming all the time, varied diet of
krill, Mysis, cockles, muscles, silver side and prawns. Tried other
foods, but he's quite fussy ;-) I'm worried I'm going to
have to force feed him, <this may be necessary> But I would like
to know if you guys have come across any other treatment or husbandry
that might help him (or if you think it may in fact be something else)?
His teeth seem OK so I don't think it's this as a problem and
he ate normally a few days ago. I'm going to do some water changes
and cross all my fingers! Thanks in advance for any additional advice
you may be able to offer. Best Regards, Andy <you did not mention
much here my friend (puffer age/captivity, species, etc.) so I am going
to have to make some inferences. After consulting with puffer
"expert" and WWM friend Kelly Jedlicki, she stated what we
have feared and hear of so commonly. Lockjaw has a very poor prognosis
and is caused by an extended period of neglect in the diet (dietary
deficiency... extremely common with Porcupine puffers allowed to eat
krill as a majority of the staple - is this your species/situation
too?). It takes many months of a limited diet to cause this (sometimes
years), and is not something that can be corrected quickly. In fact,
once puffers get to this point, few survive without drastic measures
(force feeding). Do keep in mind too, that your puffer is not
necessarily a picky feeder by preference... stress of inappropriate
tankmates, worms/sickness on (new) imports, etc. can lead the fish to
train you/us as aquarists into feeding only limited fave foods. But
this is not acceptable... like children, my friend... they will play
you <G>. To prevent this in the future, the easiest thing may be
to make a prepared frozen food mix/slurry. Bob (Fenner) has recipes in
his book/our archives and others abound on the web. Mix in a wide
variety of meats, greens and vitamins... add B12 and fresh garlic juice
(you squeeze) for an appetite stimulant, and include whatever favorite
prey your fishy likes (often krill). Make it chunky enough for healthy
feeders to eat without much mess... and blend some (puree) for
force-feeding these next few weeks on the sick individual. Consult a
local vet for force feeding advice and equipment (plunging syringe,
soft tubing, etc). There may also be some other good puffer advice on
www.lmas.org under articles. Please
do update us with your results too. I wish you the very best of
Sick porcupine Hi Bob....Wonder if you could help with
something. I have a Porcupine Puffer that I've had for about 4
months. He has always been healthy and happy. Suddenly last knight he
would not come out of his "cave". This morning he is listless
swimming around slowly, after I encouraged him to come out to take a
look at him, and he will not eat. His coloring is darker than usual I
think his belly is a little swollen and his underside that is usually
white has turned brown as well. His eyes are also a little darker than
usual. I can think of three factors that may have caused some reaction.
1. Despite repeated attempts he has never shown any interest in eating
anything except feeder minnows. Recently I have gotten him to eating
frozen "silversides" from the pet store. I noticed yesterday
that he was sort of farting with a cloudy stringy discharge coming from
his butt. (Sorry to let you in on this). Possibly indigestion due to
the change in diet? <Maybe... or the whole situation due to a
nutritional deficiency... just like a child only eating s/he's
favorite food> 2. He got into an altercation with a piece of live
rock (stupid fish) as he tried to squeeze his body into a two inch
crack between two pieces and caused some damage to one of his fins.
Possibly a opportunistic infection? <Very common and maybe> 3. I
introduced a brain coral last knight. I know Puffers and coral
don't usually mix but In his infancy since about two inches I
watched him grow up in a tank at the LFS with a tank full of corals as
well as hermit crabs ( he was sort of the pet stores pet and
wouldn't sell him for the longest time ) and I Have both in the
tank with him . He has never shown any interest. I was very careful
about not dumping the transport water from the coral into the tank and
it was almost 100% tank water when introduced. <Unlikely here...>
So there you have it. Maybe with some of the symptoms described you
could shed some light and advice on any action I might take. Thank you
in advance. J. Currah <And thank you for writing... Actually suspect
maybe some/all of the above may be/have contributed to your puffers
retiring behavior... but having dealt with many such anomalies, I
encourage you to "keep faith" that your fish will
"change" of its own accord. For whatever "reasons"
puffers just "do this", go on feeding strikes, hide out, sit
on the bottom for days, weeks, occasionally months at a time... who can
say why? Perhaps internal parasites? Maybe a mechanism to prevent
starving in lean times? To fool potential predators? I don't know.
But am aware that these situations almost always resolve/solve
themselves... with the puffers/Burrfishes (see
more) just as quickly deciding to "join the living world".
Just keep your eye on this specimen. Bob Fenner>
Re: sick puffer Hi Bob, I was talking to you earlier about
the porcupine that was sulking. Well when I got home from work I
noticed that he is now convulsing, sort of the way a cat does when its
about to throw up and at the same time puffing about half way. When he
finished he did throw something up, a small white pebble looking thing.
Any ideas? <Sounds like this animal may have swallowed something (or
knowing these puffers, eaten something) that didn't entirely agree
with it... Might even be a tumorous growth of some sort... but I
suspect your Diodontid is even on a faster route on the road to
recovery... Bob Fenner>
Re: sick puffer Hi again Please excuse me if I'm being
annoying! I deal with the public as well as a Horticulturalist and I
know how annoying people can be but shouldn't the change of
coloration on the under belly be a concern. I realize that they have
the ability to change color but I think I read once that the color of
the under belly can be a signal to the health of the fish and he's
still just curled up at the very back of hid cave. One more thing, how
long should I let him go without eating before I get concerned? I was
hand feeding him every day. <Coloration and behavior are indeed
indicative... but as a person with a great deal of personal and
"other hand" experience with this group of fishes, I assure
you, in almost all cases all that is required is patience at this
point. I would continue to offer food daily... and have faith.
Sometimes these fishes shun food for several weeks. Bob Fenner>
Re: sick puffer again Hi again Bob!...My Puffer is still in
the same condition. Sulking, sitting on the bottom at the back of the
tank. I sort of encouraged him to come out yesterday and managed to get
him to eat a couple of minnows. I know these are not the best food but
its the only thing he'll show interest in and I did manage to get
four small ones into him. However after he ate he just went to the back
gain and sat on the bottom of his cave and his under side is still very
dark. <To be expected... as I said, patience... you may well be
causing more damage by manipulating this specimen...> I noticed on
the FAQ's there is mention of a friend of yours that uses garlic as
a purgative and for digestive problems for her puffers. I could see
this since garlic in humans clean the blood. If I were to try this how
might I prepare something? Might I mash some fresh cloves with some
vitamin supplement and syringe it down his little throat? <Yes to
this protocol. The garlic is best fresh (as in human applications). Use
a plastic syringe, baster, catheter...Bob Fenner>
Sick Porcupine...again Well...sorry to be on to this again
but things don't seem to be getting any better. It's been a
week now since my porcupine (Diodon Holocanthus) has gone in hiding and
now I notice his eyes are getting very cloudy and his breathing is more
labored. Water parameters are still O.K. and I hooked up a U.V unit
this morning. I've read your book and reread the disease section
over and over. He does not have Ich. I have experience with this and
know what it looks like. Is there anything else I should look for? It
very frustrating to just watch as he deteriorates. Thank you once
again, Joe <Not much... a cathartic bath/dip in a two teaspoon per
gallon magnesium sulfate and diluted seawater (from the system) in
conjunction with the forced garlic feeding previously alluded to might
help... but may do more harm, no good at all. Have you read through the
archives on Diodontid, Tetraodontids puffers on the www.wetwebmedia.com
site? Any similar experiences related by folks on the associated FAQs
that offer solace, direction? Bob Fenner>