Prolapsed puffer 10/11/09 hi I have a picture and i was wondering if you could help. my marine puffers insides are coming out. At first i thought it was a worm so i tried pulling on it and discovered that it wasn't coming off, I saw pinkish flesh coming out so i stopped. he hasn't eaten today and i think he might die. can i do anything? I have another puffer in the tank but he never picks on him. so I don't think he did anything. please help mm <Please search on WWM re the above title... Nothing can be done here but provide good care and hope that this part of the animal's alimentary system gets pulled back in by it. Bob Fenner>

Re Prolapsed puffer idiocy   10/12/09 ok thank you I am a vet tech and could ask one of the doctors to put it back in but will it keep coming out? mm <... please search WWM re Diodontid, SW puffer Health. RMF>

Porc Puffer sore 10/3/09
Hey guys,
Thanks again for all the help you have given me. I have what may be a really stupid question. I have a 125 FOWLR that has 1 Porc puffer, 1 dog face, 1 Rabbitfish, 1 flame hawk, 1 harlequin tusk, and red legged hermit crabs.
Water parameters, are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 0 nitrates, salinity is 1.021
<... too low>
, temp 80.
Not sure the PH at the moment....I use RO water along with Prime.
Wet/Dry filter
<Often problematic in overdriving nitrification... e.g., do you have excess nitrate?>
with an in-sump protein skimmer. Both filter and skimmer made for 300 gallons.
(Planning an upgrade next year). Anyway, not that that really matters, I believe my Porc puffer ran into some live rock as he has a hole in his face above his upper lip and part of his lip looks a little rough. The hole isn't really deep and it looks like he ran into some rock. My LFS came out last night to take a look at
him and said to just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't get bigger but he agreed with my assessment that it doesn't look like he was bitten as much as he ran into something.
I don't have my moonlighting up yet so the tank is pretty black at night. Could this have caused him to run into something?
<A probable possibility. Good to have some "light" on in the room at night...>
I do not feed live food that he has to chase around. He is eating and acting normal but being the "new kid on the block" I currently am with marine species I'm just wondering if fish wounds can get infected and what they would look like.
I was also told by my LFS that he seemed a little skinny (concave belly), especially compared to my other fishes. He is very slow when coming to his food so I will be starting to feed him more after the other guys get their fill.
<Good plan>
I tried this last night after my LFS guy left and he did fill up on Mysis shrimp so his belly wasn't a pot belly but it was flat and not concave.
The other fishes had already eaten all they wanted from the initial feeding so they pretty much left the new food alone. Could this possibly be a sign of a vision problem?
<Another likely speculation>
Thanks for all your help.
<You have read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

Re: Porc Puffer sore / message recall   - 10/05/2009
Nah, that's okay. I was just thinking that it was too stupid to post.
<Au contraire Jill.... valuable experiences to relate, help others>
I watched the Porc puffer a lot this weekend. He doesn't seem aggressive enough during feedings. He will start to wander towards a bit of food but if any of the other fishes act like they are going for it, he just backs up and wanders away. He does sleep with his nose stuffed in about a 2 inch crevice in my LR. Might explain the sore.
<Ah yes>
Over feeding the tank this weekend to make sure he is getting his fill which, I realize is going to increase my water changes and filter pad changes dramatically. At least till I can get him up to snuff weight wise. I am working on "petting" him to get used to my hand so hopefully I can start hand feeding him separately in the long run.
<Try a "feeding stick" with larger food items (Krill is a fave) attached to "hand feed" the Puffer>
As far as excess nitrate, yes I did have that problem and this weekend I purchased something to put in my filter to help eliminate that problem.
I don't recall at the moment but it's some sort of light weight rock.
<Mmm, not Zeolite I hope/trust. These don't work in saltwater...>
I am thinking of employing a DSB in my sump along with some macroalgae.
Do you think that would help with the nitrate issue?
<Should greatly help>
Still doing research on that because I'm having problems wrapping my brain around the workings of it and all.
<Take your time here... Are simple concepts once grasped...>
I just had my canopy installed along with 2 day lights and 2 actinic, once again, not sure of any kinds as my LFS installed the lights before delivering my canopy. I feel the actinic are too bright, so I will be removing one so that one side of my tank will be a little darker then the other.
<Good>
After reading all the FAQs on puffer diseases, I have started to add some iodide to the water. I have a basic test kit for ammonia, nitrites, nitrate, calcium, pH, phosphate ....Do they have test kits for minerals and such too?
<For some types, yes>
I don't like to add any more supplements to the tank then I have too. What is the best way to go about increasing the salinity?
<Slowly add more saline water with changes, over time>
I top off with fresh water at the moment but maybe I should switch to topping off with my pre-made salt water until the salinity increases?
<Good idea>
I thought about increasing the salt when I did my 25% water change this week but I chickened out.
I thought it might be too drastic a change all at once.
<Mmm, not to worry. If not more than a thousandth in a day, no big deal.
Many reef fishes pass through very freshwater at times... rain, run-off from land...>
I have lots more FAQ's reading to do and I need to start taking notes, I just don't retain info like I used to.
<I do definitely relate>
You guys are such a blessing. Thank you so much for all your help.
Jill
<Welcome. BobF>

Pufferfish Question, Diodontid spot  9/10/09
Hello Crew!
<Ave Christopher!>
Quick question. I have a Porcupine Pufferfish, he's about 3-4 inches long, very healthy eater, loves attention and looks very healthy. However the last couple days he's grown a bump on his head that looks like a zit.
<May be akin to...>
It's small and pink, round and looks like he's just hit puberty.
<Heee!>
The tank is healthy, and water quality doesn't appear to be an issue. He feeds on krill and a clam mixture (and will eat out of my hand and jump out of the water to feed) my friend who owns the store I bought him from says he's one of the healthiest puffers he's had. Just wondering if you have any ideas what this could be, and what to do about it.
<Likely result of a physical trauma... swimming into something... I would not worry re>
He doesn't seem bothered by it at all, but I want to make sure it doesn't develop into something serious. Any help appreciated, let me know if you need more info. Thanks!
Christopher Friesen
<When in doubt, read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>

Porcupine Puffer... hlth  9/7/09
Hello. I have a 75 Gallon aquarium that currently only houses a small porcupine puffer and live rock. My readings are 0 for everything except nitrates which are 20ppm. And so here are my questions. My aquarium has been fallow
<...? You just stated it has a fish in it>
for 4 weeks because I thought I might have a possible ich problem. I have been housing all of my fish, the puffer, a yellow tang, percula clown, and a blue damsel in a 20 gallon quarantine tank with daily water changes. I placed them all in quarantine because I thought the puffer possibly had ich (which is one of my questions). While in quarantine, the few white dots that were on the puffer, went away, never returning. None of the other fish developed these spots. I did not medicate. In the meantime, my 75 gallon was running fallow and i still did my regular water changes. I purchased a new powerhead for the 75 to use along with my other two. The nitrates in my 75 shot up from 0 to 20 in a matter of two days after i placed the new powerhead.
<Perhaps the improved oxygenation spurred on nitrification here>
I have not been able to lower them regardless of constant water changes and filter cleaning ( Fluval 305 ).
<... there are other means. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the linked files above>
Anyway, I returned the puffer back to the 75 to see if the white spots would return. ( i did this once before and they did ). The white spots are back!
<Mmm, yes... not unusual actually... many systems are as yours... Infested>
Well I wanted to retrieve the fish to put him back in quarantine and as soon as my fingers touched the surface of the water, I was SHOCKED. The culprit was the new powerhead. Can stray voltage cause high nitrates?
<Interesting to speculate. I don't know>
What about the white spots on my puffer?
<More stress could definitely be a factor>
Is this ich or something else entirely?
<Can't tell from here>
If it's ich, why are my other fish not contracting it, especially the tang?
<... more resistant? Acquired immunity?>
I have been trying to research other causes of these white spots but I'm coming up empty handed.
<... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm
and the linked files above... need a 'scope...>
Please help. I'd really like to return my fish back to the display tank.
To describe these white spots, they are salt-like white specs. My puffer has only had a few at a time the three times he's had them. Also, he's never had trouble breathing or eating. Thanks in advance for your help.
<Might well be "something else" Protozoan, helminth wise... Bob Fenner>

Porcupine Puffer with possible ich 8/26/2009
Hello. I have a 75 Gallon open-top tank with a Fluval Canister Filter, protein skimmer, a hang-on filter for extra filtration, and 3 powerheads.
My readings are as follows, nitrates:0 nitrites:0 ammonia:0 ph:8.2. In my display tank I have a 3" porcupine puffer, 1 small percula clown, and about 60 lbs. of live rock. I just recently added the puffer to my display tank ( he had been in a 20 gallon quarantine tank alone for several weeks with no problems after I purchased him ). A few days ago I noticed a few very tiny translucent white spots on his fins and body.
<Mmm... not likely Crypt>
I put him back into quarantine immediately where I am also housing a newly purchased small yellow tang. A few days have passed and the white spots have not multiplied nor either of my other fish ( in main display or
quarantine ) have showed any signs of these white spots. Could this be something other than ich?
<Yes>
The puffer seems fine. He's very active, he eats like a pig, and his breathing is very normal.
<Good signs>
I'd rather not go to any extremes as far as medications or hyposalinity until I know for sure. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help.
<I would place this fish and not worry. Bob Fenner>

Sick porcupine puffer - 06/05/09
Hi,
<Hello Anna>
I have a porcupine puffer who is approximately 4 years old and 10" long.
He is the lone fish in a 75 gallon salt water aquarium. He has been in this tank for the last 3 years. I have checked the water parameters and all seem well within normal ranges. He was up and feeding on Saturday but would come up buy not eat on Sunday or Monday. Today he is staying in the corner of the tank that he likes and only comes up when I disturb him.
<Mmm, not atypical cyclic behavior>
When he swims he appears to list to the right and has some problem when he comes to the surface - as if he will turn over backward.
I don't see any problems with his skin or his eyes and he responds to me but is obviously in distress over something. As you can imagine I am very attached to him and want to do everything I can to keep him around a while.
If you have any suggestions I would welcome them. I have kept salt water fish for years but this is my first puffer.
Thanks,
Anna
<Well... should be in a larger volume... I would opt for trying to improve this animal's nutrition and physical environment for now... Perhaps a bag of "frozen sea food" mix with defrosted items soaked in Selcon or such...
And moving a bit of the decor about, adding some new/er live rock. Bob Fenner>  

Porcupine puffer with a "bruise" 5-30-3009 Hi all, <Gareth> I have a Porcupine Puffer in a 600 litre tank with a variety of other fish (some clowns, triggers, tangs, damsels & blennies). I was not here on the day it was introduced, but noticed a cloudiness on its top rear fin (dorsal?), see attached image. <I do see this... Likely one of the triggers...> It is feeding well on some shrimp, sand eels & cockles, but seems nervous & it stays beneath a pile of rock unless it thinks it may get fed. I have noticed the cleaner Wrasse having a go at the same area, <Not good to keep Labroides in small systems... pester other fish/hosts too much> but I don't know if it is helping with some sort of parasite <Nope> or has taken to bullying the Puffer. <Could be> The fin which had the cloudiness now has what looks like a bruise on it which appears to be spreading to the skin on the left side, again, I'm not sure whether it is caused by the Wrasse, an infection or a parasite. <Mmm, neither> Nitrite, Ammonia & pH are all spot on, and all the other fish are perfectly healthy. None have any signs of ick & the only aggression in the tanks is the Wrasse picking at the fin of the puffer. Any help or advise would be gratefully received. Regards, Gareth Harper <Time to remove the Labroides. Bob Fenner>

Porc Puffer ? Hlth., reading 05/27/09
I have a very curious puffer that I was housing in my 90 gallon until he decided to snack on my fish (I knew the risk I was taking). Since I moved him to my 125 with two California Stingrays.
<Coldwater animals... otherwise incompatible>
To give everyone acclimation time etc, I turned off the lights and covered the tank for a period of 24 hrs -its in a very bright sunny part of the house, tons of windows. I went to check on everyone an hour ago and my poor puffer was stuck to the intake for my sump. I know better, but the stingrays like to play there so I didn't even think about it when I moved P. Diddy (puff daddy) over. Now his bottom lip is red, swollen and he is all puffed up and swimming upside down. He hasn't released the water/air and I basically want to know if I have the chance to try and heal him back to health or if I should put him out of his misery.
<Are tough animals... there is reason to hope>
I've had this guy for a year and was going to set him up with a FOWLER dedicated to him. I want to do the best for P. Diddy and I don't care for the cost etc. I have a separate tank setting up as we speak that I am prepared to do water changes daily, Melafix
<Worthless>
etc so that he may recover... but if he's swimming upside down still puffed up with air?
<Need to "un-puff"... See WWM re>
What can I do? What's the right thing to do?
Thanks for all of your help!
Tiffany B.
<Keep reading Tiff. Bob Fenner>

Puffer meets filter 3/12/2009
New Puffer Stuck to Fluval 404
Hi Crew
<Hi Paul>
I am very much a beginner in the terms of saltwater marine care. This is my first saltwater tank and the 2nd fish added was a Spiny Box Puffer.
<Cyclichthys schoepfi a.k.a. Striped Burrfish>
Last night I got him, fell in love immediately and carefully acclimated him to the tank.
<No Quarantine?>
He was swimming around quite blissfully and accepted his first feeding of krill with no problem. Everything was going great. Went to bed, woke up to disaster this morning.
Somehow, the cute little guy got pulled into the filtration (a Fluval 404) and was firmly attached to the intake this morning (he could have been stuck for hours).
<Was the screen\strainer on the intake pipe, and how big is this puffer?>
I immediately turned off and cursed my Fluval filter (and myself/pet store for not knowing to watch out for such an obvious peril). He came off the filter and is/was swimming when I left for work. He did eat a krill this morning but he was really badly beaten up by the filter.
<Good sign that he is eating - do be sure to offer more than krill>
His left rear side was all stretched out, his rear fins seem to be pulled into the wrong place (they face up and down not on the sides anymore) his back looks a bit twisted and his tail fins do not move at all. He propels himself solely on his front fins. Also it looks like his skin (in the area of the suction) was pulled way out of place.
<Pretty beaten up>
Kills me to think this is my fault and that I was responsible for putting a little fish like this through so much trauma.
<Provided the intake was screened, it wasn't your fault.>
I think I will be lucky if he survives the day given his slow lumbering movement. I've heard these guys do have a very tough and highly resilient character but I don't see how anything could survive the damage this poor little fish endured.
<You would be surprised how well fish can adapt\recover.>
Assuming he survives, Is there anything I should do to nurse him back to good health?
<Good water quality, proper feeding, time>
Should I put him out of his misery if most likely he will die anyhow?
<Not at this point.>
Should I consider complaining to the fish store (they knew my tank setup/filters and I asked a million question, just not the one that would have saved him) for improper care instructions (so next time they warn people to be wary of filters when purchasing one of these fish)?
<Not your fish store's fault either. Assuming your intake has a strainer on it, it strikes me as strange that a puffer would get stuck to the intake of the filter unless the fish is already in very poor health (which would have been ruled out in quarantine) or very small.>
His tank mate is an adult Sgt. Major damsel, do i need to quarantine the puffer when I get home from work (he was leaving him alone this morning)?
<I would not move or stress this fish for the moment, do watch closely for aggression>
I did rotate the filter intake all the way to face the corner and put it deeper in the tank where the intake is protected behind the heater from another indecent. I don't think anything could get stuck in it now but I will purchase something (sponge or cover) assuming a pet store will have such a device tomorrow (i have to work late tonight or I would do it today).
*Tank Info*
150 gallon (glass)
Fluval 404
Aqua Clear 110
Remora (hang on) Skimmer
Live Rock (30 or so lbs)
Relatively Bare Open Tank (it is still pretty new)
Live Gravel Floor
Single Tube Fluorescent Hood/Lamp
<Some more live rock would be beneficial, and you will need more water movement\filtration>
Please do read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm and the linked pages on the top of that page.>
<Mike>

Re: Puffer meets filter Follow up. 3/12/2009
Thanks Mike,
<Hi Paul, no problem at all.>
I got the Fluval from a friend and it had no screen for the intake port.
It had a little bent elbow and a wide spout with a cap that can be removed from the bottom of the elbow for priming. No screen came with it or I would have installed it.
<I see, with an uncovered intake pipe, any fish could have been stuck>
I don't own a quarantine tank, is there another way to quarantine?
<No there isn't>
I am very new to this hobby.
<We are all new to this at some point, no worries.>
I'm about a quarter way through "The Consciences Marine Aquarist" by Robert M. Fenner and am reading it word for word, but in practice I am very much a noob. (1st saltwater tank, 2nd fish) I have also joined a forum and have been reading everything I can along the way..
<Excellent to hear that you are reading\learning.>
Last night when I got home he was motionless on the sea bed except for his gasping. I dropped a piece of krill and it landed really close to him but he still didn't move to eat at all. His side had less swelling but his side fins were moving extremely slowly and it looked like he was in a lot of pain.
<Not unexpected, he is pretty beaten up, but all hope is not lost. Time, good water quality, are needed here.>
After I ate dinner he was motionless. Killed me. Never thought I'd have an emotional response to a fish,
especially within a 24-48 hour period of ownership.
<Not surprised at all. I've had entire weekends ruined for the loss of a favorite fish.>
To answer your questions, he was about 4-5 inches long.
<Ok, again, with an uncovered intake pipe, any fish can get stuck.>
I have been using the test strips and the water quality is okay/good on all the strips I've used.
I have heard these test strips are not good and will be getting a better water tester next visit to the pet store.
<Good. I use the API kits myself - easy to use and reasonably consistent.>
How I acclimated him was a method described to me by someone along the way... I think one of the pet stores I visited and inquired with). I have been asking lots of questions to lots of people these days.
I really did want to avoid any casualties.
<Very Good>
Get a large plastic bowl, fill with the store water and fish. place bowl in tank to acclimate the temperature (I made a nice little flotation ring for the purpose). Every 15 minutes add a small bit of the water from the tank to the fish bowl water (presumably to acclimate him to salinity/new water?).
<Yes>
After repeating this till bowl full, use a fish net to remove fish from bowl and dip rapidly in a fresh water (acclimated to tank temperature) and then place in main tank.
<Not the best method in my opinion but not completely wrong either. Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm It covers acclimation, and the links at the top cover dips\baths and quarantine. The methods covered are tried and true.>
Is there something I did wrong?
<Other than not quarantining, which would not have changed the outcome here, and trust me, you are neither the first nor the last to not quarantine, so don't beat yourself up too much.>
I don't have a quarantine tank... I was told I could wait on a quarantine tank till I was more or less an amateur/experienced aquarist.
<Ahhh.. This is a popular myth, and probably a large contributor as to why many leave this hobby so quickly. The fish are not quarantined, fish gets sick, fish transmits disease to other fish in tank, all fish die, owner gets discouraged\upset and leaves the hobby. A quarantine tank need not be a large or elaborate affair. The aquarium kits frequently sold in department stores or chain pet shops do remarkably well for a quarantine tank for little cost - certainly less than the cost of a tank of sick
fish.>
Paul
<Best of luck Paul, do let me know how it turns out.>
<Mike>

Porcupine Pufferfish dis-emboweled 3-5-09
Help!
<I'll do my best! Mike here tonight>
I have a 220-gallon saltwater aquarium. All of the fish have been doing great for a long time.
<Yay, a big tank!>
"Porky", my large Porcupine Puffer, has an injury caused by another fish last night. I looked into the tank and saw my large Lunar Wrasse pulling and tugging on pink "guts" or something that he was pulling out of Porky's anal opening. He had about 3" of it pulled out and was tugging and trying to rip at it and eat it. I now have Porky in a hospital tank with Maracyn to try and prevent infection.
<Good. You may want to very broad spectrum here, with Maracyn 1&2, and maybe Methylene blue...it won't hurt>
The guts (intestines or whatever it is) is still hanging out of him in a large pink ball.
<Possibly prolapsed colon/intestines...is there a hole torn through the abdominal wall, or it is hanging out of the rectum?>
It also has some white stringy parts kind of hanging off of it, and some areas are more pink or red, and looks like it hurts.
<Likely damaged tissue and blood vessels>
Porky is still eating like his normal ravaged self, but I'm not sure if he'll be able to poop.
<I would stop feeding for the time being>
And I can't put him back in the big tank, because ALL of the fish started to nip at it before I got him out of there. I tried to push the guts back in, but I was afraid of making it worse so I stopped after it didn't go in easily. What should I do?
<I haven't had any experience with this before, so I'm Cc'ing Bob, who will hopefully CC Kathy, the only person I know of whom has some 'surgical' experience with fish. However, keep porky in the QT tank, treat with prophylactic antibiotics, cease feeding, and wait>
<<I would not operate on this fish... but wait, be patient. Such prolapses are not uncommon... Use the WWM search tool and look up this term with the word puffer... and read the cached views... RMF>>
Thanks, Jenny
<Good luck! M. Maddox>

Re: Porcupine Pufferfish dis-emboweled (follow-up) 3-9-09
Hi again,
<Evening>
I am still only treating Porky with Maracyn 1. I can't find saltwater Maracyn 2 anywhere. When I DO find it, how much should I be using since I'll be using both Maracyn 1 & 2? 1/2 of each normal dose, Or regular doses of both?
<Nope, standard dose of each, because Maracyn treats gram positive infections and Maracyn Two treats gram negative. If you can't find Maracyn Two at any LFS, then treat with a broad spectrum and/or gram negative
antibiotic> I did get some Methylene Blue. Do you want me to drop the Methylene Blue right onto the intestines that are sticking out? Or should I treat the water (20 gal. hospital tank)?
<Treat the tank>
And how much should I use?
<Follow the instructions on the label - I'm not sure what brand or concentration you have, so there is no way for me to give you accurate dosing instructions>
Thanks.
<Anytime>
Jenny
<Good luck, and I hope your puffer recovers - M. Maddox>

Re: Porcupine Pufferfish dis-emboweled 3-25-09
Hi,
<Afternoon>
Just thought I'd update you with "Porky's" condition. He's alive and well and back in his home tank with his tank mates. The Maracyn 1 worked great.
<Awesome!>
I never did find any Maracyn 2 so I didn't use it. And I didn't have the directions for the Methylene Blue, so I didn't use that either.
<Next time grab Kordon's, which is a teaspoon per ten gallons I believe>
I got lucky and the Maracyn 1 did the trick. His bowels retreated back inside him after about a week, and he's eating and pooping just fine. :-)
<That's so good to hear, I'm glad he recovered!>
Thanks!
<Sure thing, glad I could help>
Jenny
<M. Maddox>

sick porcupine puffer, hlth./induced blindness, reading  2/26/09 Hi my name is Eric, and my porcupine which i have had for 2 years now has become sick. The tank is 60 gallons <Too small> and the puffer has been in there the whole time. There is also a Foxface rabbit which is doing very well and has also been in since the start, and a small coral hogfish that i purchased around 6 months ago. The tank has a good amount of live rock a few Mexican turbo snails and some hermit crabs. i run a power head, 2 Aquaclear 500's and a backpack 2 skimmer. The tank stays at 81 degrees, i do water changes at least once a month, the ph is 8.2, ammonia is 0 and nitrates are 10 to 20. The salinity is 1.027. <A bit high> The problem i am having started about 2 months ago when the puffers eyes got hazy and he seemed to not be able to eat his food. He looked hungry and came to the top of the tank but when he went to eat it he would keep missing it. <Too typical> Before this he was a very big eater, however he would only eat frozen krill. I was instructed by the pet center i deal with to try Furan 2, <... no> after doing a cycle of that his eyes cleared up a bit and he would eat small amounts but still had trouble finding the food. A few weeks later his eyes hazed again and he has had no luck at all finding the food. I began using VitaChem with the food <Good> as well. Just within the past few days i have noticed that he is at the bottom breathing very heavy and he began to develop a purplish gray area on the rear of his tail section. Today I looked at him and saw that the discoloration has moved up his body and is covering almost half of him and the rear discolored area looks like its dying with very bad skin and tail rot. Any help would be appreciated. I have attached a picture as well. thanks Eric Vozzella <Mmm... this smacks of a long-term nutritional deficiency... Might be able to be reversed, maybe not... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishfdgfaqs.htm and the linked files where you encounter them, lead yourself... Adding a refugium, mud, algal culture, DSB... all would help... Bob Fenner>

Re: sick porcupine puffer 2/26/2009 Thanks for the help bob, however he did not even make the night, very sad loss! <Ahh! These are very personable animals... intelligent as well. BobF>

Skinny Porcupine Puffer... Stunted due to... Env. and?  – 02/19/09
Hi,
<Chris>
I have a porcupine puffer (Diodon holacanthus) and I've had her for about 2 years now and she is about 3-4 inches long at this point.
<... small>
I can't help but
notice that she is far thinner than most other fish of her species that I've seen (online, in pet stores and at friends' houses). Instead of being fuller with a slight taper towards the tail, she has a distinct tear-drop shape with a really skinny body.
<Mmmm>
I feed her 2 cubes of frozen food every other day and that food is everything from Emerald Entre to Marine Cuisine and Brine Shrimp. Is there something she is missing in her diet that is keeping her from growing fatter?
<Possibly... or perhaps there's summat else at work here... Internal parasites, genetic, behavioral issues, even aspects of environment, water quality...>
Below is the information about my tank and various levels.
55 Gallon
<Too small eventually... and this could be a source/factor... read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/GrwLmtChems.htm>
with a salinity of 1.020.
<Too low... also a poss. influence>
Nitrites and Alkalinity are in the safe range according to my test strips and Ammonia is less than 0.25
<Must be zero... See WWM re tests... here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/mtstmethds.htm
and the linked files above>
while the Nitrites are high at 80-160.
<Nitrates... not NO2... WAY too high... def. a factor...
http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the linked files above.>
Thanks
<There may be others... but the environment here is definitely faulty. Bob Fenner>

Pufferfish with chlorine poisoning  2/3/09
Hi, thanks for having this service. I have found many answers here. I have a 125gal saltwater tank occupied by a 4" porcupine puffer, 7" Volitans lionfish, Foxface Rabbitfish, 3' zebra eel and 2 small damsels that survived the initial start-up a year ago. While on vacation we had a friend come by to feed the fish. Thinking he was helping, he removed a few of the skeleton corals and cleaned them in bleach. He did soak them in a freshwater dip with prime before he placed them in the tank. However, the next morning our Russell lionfish was dead and the puffer is sitting on the bottom, having breathing problems.
<Yikes....>
He also has a thick white substance coming from his pores, mouth, gills and eyes.
<Body mucus...>
Obviously, he is experiencing chlorine poisoning. Within 12 hours of the poisoning, I changed 40 gals, added extra prime to the tank, placed the airstone next to the powerhead to create a higher oxygen content in the water and added StressCoat to the water. He did begin swimming around periodically, but most of the time he is resting on the bottom. Is there anything else I can do to help him survive?
<Yes, place a good deal (a couple of "units") of activated carbon... like Boyd's Chemipure or such in the water flow path, and possibly PolyFilter if you can get it pronto>
I am also worried that even if he is recovering, he will not eat, as most fish won't when they are ill.
<Not to worry... These puffers can go w/o feeding (if in good health initially) for weeks>
I don't want him to starve to death before he has a chance to recover. How long can he survive without eating? I tried soaking his food in garlic extreme, that did not work. Do you have any suggestions to get him to eat?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FishInd3.htm
toward the bottom of the page... re var. puffer groups Feeding>
Sorry for going on so long, I just really want to help him.
Thanks
George
<Patience here. Bob Fenner>

Porcupine Puffer possibly has ich (UNCLASSIFIED)  12/20/08
Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE
<... is this email being spied on? Is this one of my/our civil servants using the public's dime/time? One out of too many...>
Hello,
<Mmm, yes>
I recently set up a 125g FOWLR tank. It has a canister filter, protein skimmer, and two powerheads. I have 130 pounds of live rock and 10 pounds of live sand and 60 pounds of sand. The tank has been up for three months. (The first month no fish were in the system) I have a Porcupine Puffer and yesterday (12/19/08) I noticed a few white spots on his two side fins.
They look like little bits of sand.
<Might be>
I thought that that was what it was little pieces of sand since Puffer likes to go to the bottom of the tank after a meal and rest, but after a few hours of observation I am concerned that it may be ich.
<Could be, but doubtful>
Puffer is not really active during the day, but at night he come to the top of the tank and begs for food. He rests a majority of the day, but he has never been that active. He seems healthy by all accounts. He eats well and besides being a little timid around the other fish (Harlequin Tusk, Naso Tang, Pearlscale Red Butterfly, Blue Jaw Trigger, and 5 Green Chromis)he doesn't seem to have any issues. I have read your forums on Porcupine Puffers with ich but I feel the information given is to scattered and there are conflicting opinions.
<Same as it ever was>
I would like to know if a freshwater dip is worth even trying.
<Mmm, no; not IMO/E>
I know one of your forums say certain stages of ich easily resist freshwater dips. I just don't want to put puffer through the stress of being removed from his tank and then the huge stress of being in freshwater.
<I am in agreement with your point of view>
How resilient are puffers against ich?
<Mmm, more than middling>
He only has a few white spots on his fins and nowhere else. Each meal is soaked in garlic which I hear helps guard against ich,
<Nah>
but does it do anything to combat the illness once a fish has the illness.
<Zip>
I have read that the ich parasite doesn't like the odor of garlic
<Methinks you've got these Tetraodontiforms mixed up with vampire lore>
and the smell will keep them from attaching to the fish.
I have no idea if this is true, but if it is will the parasite detach because of the garlic. It is really hard to get good information so I appreciate the assistance. If you need anymore information please ask.
Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE
<I too have not caveats (to mention)... But would take a wait and see approach here... Most likely these two "spots" are nothing. Bob, citizen, person who generates GDP, Fenner>

Porcupine Puffer Skin Problems  12/3/08
Good evening,
<Morrow for me here, now. Good day to you in any case/time frame>
I have used your site numerous times to troubleshoot many different fish/aquarium topics, but I cannot find the answer to my most recent question and find it worthy of a post.
<Good>
My Porcupine Puffer that I have had in a 100 gallon live rock aquarium for 6 months has started to show signs of skin problems and I can't find the issue posted or even mentioned on any forum.
It appears that the fish is molting/shedding from between the eyes to the dorsal fin.
<Mmm, Diodontids (and Tetraodontids...) do "shed" their skin quite a bit...>
The typical olive/brown coloring has given way to what appears to be a new, whiter layer of skin/scale still exhibiting the camouflage characteristics, just in a lighter shade. Now I've searched and know that puffers do not have scales and from what I can tell therefore do not shed/molt.
<Actually...>
I'm wondering if this is a treatable disease or in general any advice you can provide for this situation.
Tank specs:
100 gallon overflow with a 25 gallon sump, Red Sea protein skimmer and carbon filtration.
Tank Mates:
Yellow Tang
Maroon Gold Stripe Clown
Candy Hogfish
Picasso Trigger
75 lbs live rock
Thank you for your assistance
<Mmm... well, this condition can be due to, here's that word again, just "stress"... it may be the Trigger, Clown and even the Tang are working this fish woe... The second, and possibly larger co-factor with these puffers is nutritional. Very often they are lost to avitaminoses... and hence, the call to supplement their foods, provide a myriad diet to hopefully avoid such dietary lacks. IF you have other quarters to situate this specimen in, I would move it... to counter/check the possibility of harassment... And I would definitely mix the diet up here, try soaking all foods in a HUFA, vitamin mix... like MicroVit, Selcon... Bob Fenner>

Pufferfish Parasites?  11/22/08 I picked up a porcupine puffer from the LFS about 1 week ago. This was the second one that I had seen at that particular shop, and both of them had a single cluster of *something* growing on one pectoral fin (see attached photo). <I see this in your excellent photo> I spoke with a friend who had one in the past, and he said that his fish would get this problem on and off, but he didn't know what it was. Well, the LFS people didn't know either. They said it was pretty common and I ended up deciding to take the puffer home and try to treat it. The problem is that I can't find any information whatsoever about this infection of the pectoral fin. <Mmm, don't think this is trouble...> Now I have noticed that the puffer has two white-ish spots on his forehead (photo attached), but they strike me as being bigger than ich. He is eating, but it's kind of strange: he only likes to eat things that are floating or drifting in the water column: he won't follow anything to the bottom, and he won't eat anything if it's sitting on a rock <Do take care here... many puffer species, specimens get "fixed" on certain foods, feeding modes... best to keep mixing up, offering different foodstuffs in different areas... with vitamin/HUFA supplementation occasionally/weekly let's say> . He spends nearly all of his time pacing around the glass, but at night I've seen him "hunting" around the middle of the tank. I have never seen him "rest" before, he's always on the move. I wouldn't describe his pace as frantic, though, and I've never seen him rubbing or flashing. Also, none of the other fish in my tank show any of these symptoms. <Not a worry behavior-wise> hat do you think? If you know what the problem is, what would you recommend as treatment? Thank you, Joe <"Just" good care here... particularly an eye on water quality (low metabolite accumulation) the markings on both the head and pectoral fin look to me to be damaged areas (physical)... the white markings the equivalent of "scabs", areas of regrowth, repair... The fin likely damaged in collection or subsequent net/handling, the head area a "bump" against something like coral or rock. Both will heal in time. Bob Fenner>   Pufferfish Parasites: System Information  11/22/08 Sorry, I got carried away and forgot to give you information about my system. <Ahh> It's a 90g FOWLR, has been running for 3 months. About 90-100 lbs of rock, shallow sand bed of 50 lbs. The only fish besides the puffer is a small black volitans lion. There are 20 turbo snails (which I'm aware will be eaten eventually), 1 green serpent star, and 1 Bahama star (who is also probably at risk). Test results: Ammonia:0 Nitrite:0 Nitrate:5 Salinity:1.024 Temperature:76.5-79 Night - Day <Looks very good> The tank is skimmed pretty heavily with an in-sump modded octopus NW 150. Nothing in the tank has ever been treated with copper. If you could use any more information, let me know. Thanks, Joe <No worries Joe. BobF>

Re: Pufferfish Parasites?   11/22/08 I really appreciate the response, very helpful. It's good to hear that you think this is all just damage from shipping or the like. So you said I should supplement his meals with vitamins; what in particular? I've started adding garlic to his meal to help boost his immune system, but I'm not too familiar with any other supplements. <Ah, please read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/vitaminmarfaqs.htm> Is it really a bad thing if he gets "trained" to not eat off the bottom? <Mmm, not as much as what is actually eaten... but a good idea to train such animals to feed from the surface as well... should this be expeditious> Because if that actually works, I wouldn't have to worry about my snails, I could keep hermit crabs or possibly even coral. <Mmm, not dependably> Have you ever heard of success in training puffers like that? <Ditto> I read an article the other night who taught his puffer basic sign language! http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i3/Puffers/puffers.htm <These are quite intelligent animals. BobF>  Pufferfish Parasites: Update   11/25/08 Hey, I just wanted to keep you updated on the progress but also ask a couple new questions. <Sure> 1. I've been supplementing garlic and I can already see that his scabs are healing, whether due to the garlic or not. The one on his fin is about the same, though. I have placed an order for both Selcon and VitaChem as you seem to recommend these a lot. <Good> 2. I found out yesterday that my hydrometer was .004 off, meaning my water was actually 1.027 when it read 1.023. Upon figuring this out, I did a 40%ish water change with 1.018 salinity or there-abouts water. I took my time doing this, and gradually got the tank filled back up. <Mmm, a comment... I'd just add some/more freshwater over time... not change the spg more than 0.001 in a day or so> The salinity balanced around 1.024-1.025. Two events of interest occurred after this. I was observing something else in the tank, and when I looked over, the puffer was inflated. This was my first time seeing him like that and I'm aware that it is stressful on their bodies, but is it possible that he did this just for "fun" or something? <Mmm... doubtful> There was no one else in the room, the lionfish was in his cave motionless. Could it have to do with the salinity, even though I did everything very gradually? <Mmm, yes> I witnessed him doing it again one more time the next day, also for no visible reason. The second thing that happened is a much welcomed change. The puffer no longer spends 95% of his time pushed against the glass in the corner. He now hangs out between some rocks, hovering around looking at things as if hunting. He still comes up to the glass, just not all the time like before. Maybe the high salinity had him stressed out so he was constantly trying to escape the tank? <Possibly> 3. I know corals + puffer = no, but a friend offered to give me some free pulsing xenias. On top of the fact that they were free, my puffer doesn't usually eat things that aren't floating, as I mentioned earlier. So I figure in the worse case he kills the xenias. Well, I put them in the tank last night. Woke up in the morning and a few of the pulsing "fingers" were nibbled off, but the stalks and the majority of the xenias were wholly untouched. Do you think he nibbled it and just didn't like the taste? <Also a possibility> It seems like puffers usually devour their entire meal once they get started. Only other fish are the lionfish and a blue yellow tailed damsel. <Surprising the Lion hasn't inhaled the damsel. Bob Fenner>

Sick porcupine puffer – 07/14/08
Hey guys,
<Hi.>
we set up a saltwater tank 2 months ago.
<Size?>
Our first fish was a porcupine puffer.
<Size?>
The fish was doing well, we fed her crayfish, crabs and sometimes feeder minnows.
<The latter is a very unhealthy food item absolutely inappropriate for your porcupine fish.
See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/fdgfdrartneale.htm.>
We figured she was doing so well we decided to add a dragon wrasse.
<Was the wrasse quarantined to avoid the introduction of diseases?>
She was ok for the first few days now she is all over the tank bumping into rocks, breathing heavy and her colour is just not right.
<Might be Amyloodinium (can you see most tiny white spots and a whitish change of coloration?) or a bacterial infection due to a weak immune system (growing discolorations on the body?). >
The day before we gave her feeder minnows and noticed that in the tank where we were holding the minnows they had all died.
<…>
We don’t know if its the feeder minnows, the dragon wrasse or a combination of the two.
<All possible, especially the last. I recommend never to feed minnows to a porcupine puffer again.>
Our ph is 8.2, we have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20 nitrate.
<Sounds okay.>
We don’t know what to do and we don’t want to lose our puffer! Thanks.
<Clarify which of the two is most likely and start a treatment in a hospital tank. Amyloodinium can kill very fast. Treatment options are found on WWM. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffers.htm and the linked FAQs on diseases and also the corresponding articles on marine velvet or bacterial infections. Good luck. Marco.>

Blind Porcupine Puffer   6/23/08
Two nights ago the bubblers in my salt-water tank stopped working, and when I got up the next morning, one of my fish was dead, and all the
others at the bottom of the tank gasping.
<Yikes>
I put in an emergency bubbler, and turned on my supplementary bubblers, and did a water change. (I was scheduled to do a water change over the weekend, anyway.)
Well, aside from the one fish being dead already, everybody seemed to recover, except now I think my porcupine puffer is blind. So now I'm
worried he'll starve to death because he can't see his food.
<Mmm, not likely just from this... and likely the apparent blindness is reversible>
Is there anything I can do to help him? I don't want to watch him starve to death. He's my favorite fish, and I'm totally sick that this
happened.
Thanks.
Rabin'
<Try training this Puffer to come to the surface... in a corner... wiggling a meaty, intact food item... like a shrimp, krill in the water. It will learn quickly what you're up to. Bob Fenner>

Urgent Help please. With Spiny Boxfish. – 6/17/08
Yesterday ( Sunday ) my children brought me a Spiny Boxfish for Fathers day which I wanted.
<Yikes, oh good>
However I noticed that one eye is clouded over and the other eye has little specks of cloudiness on it. I have read about this and realise that Spiny boxfish can suffer from eye infections.
<Yes... quite common... Mostly due to (prior) physical damage>
Can you advise me on what to do , Is this an easy problem to correct or does it normally end in blindness?
<Normally self-heals given good water quality, care...>
My tank is a Trigon 350 and I have a Volitans Lionfish a Yellow Tang , Lipstick tang , Blue Damsel , Foxface , Grouper , 2 Maroon Clownfish with Anemone and a Green Brittle starfish all doing very well with no problems. I have just brought a Ro-man to supply my self with Ro water.
<Good>
Basically I would to keep the Boxfish and help him recover but if from your experiences this isn't an easy problem to solve then it might be better to take him back to the Shop where it was purchased from. I am more than willing to purchase medicine and administer it in my tank however I do have some corals and Live rock which could well be disturbed.
Thank you very much for your time.
Phil.
<I urge patience here; keeping this fish in your likely much better cared for circumstances. Perhaps the soaking of favored foods (you may have to teach all to feed on one side of the tank, the puffer on t'other...) in Selcon or such... to aid healing/boost the immune system. Bob Fenner>

I need help! Diodontid hlth., no data or reading   4/18/08
I have a new Burr fish puffer. He has only been here for 48 hours and suddenly he has a bald belly he looked a little skinny before but I thought with a little tlc I could turn him around. What do I do? I don't think he has or had ick. I do not have a QT, and I have alot
<... no such word>
of other fish. HELP!
Thanks Jen
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm
the linked files above... on Systems, Feeding... Bob Fenner>

Blind porcupine puffer... env., nutr.?  03/19/2008
Tank history and test results.....
My tank is 120 or 125 gallons still trying to figure it out.
Here are my test results: amm. 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5-10 (colors so close I can't tell the difference) PH 8.4, Temp 79-80 KH 200-400ppm, phosphates 1,
<High>
salinity 1.021.
<Mmm, I'd raise this>
The tank is an upgrade has been running for about 4 months. All decor and filters were transferred to the tank with the upgrade. Before the upgrade the tank was running for 3 months. It went from freshwater and was slowly raised to saltwater. I took my time in raising the salinity over a period of 4 months. I started with 2-GSP's, after raising the tank to saltwater I added a Porcupine Puffer, another 2 weeks went by and I added a stars & stripes puffer. I don't have any corals in the tank, just live rock. The GSP's are both about 3.5", the Porcupine Puffer is about 3-4" and the Stars & Stripes is about 5-6". Currently on the tank I have 2 powerheads, 1 HOB filter, a heater, a protein skimmer, new wet/dry. On Sunday I switched two canister filters out for the wet/dry. I had 2 HOB filters on the tank but moved one to a qt this morning for my porcupine puffer.
The Story:
On Friday March 14th, I fed my puffers they all ate well, very well. My porcupine (the one in question) did what she normally does and went to her spot and took a nap.
March 15th- My porcupine puffer was still in the same spot that morning which did not worry me yet. That afternoon when I got home she still had not moved. Now getting a little worried.
March 16th-Porcupine puffer still in the same spot, only moving her fins and laying on the sandbed. I noticed that her eyes were not as glossy as they should be. Starting to get more worried at this point. Had planned to remove the two canister filters that were on the tank and replace it with the wet/dry. Did a 25% water change and switched the two canisters for the wet/dry. The initial blast from the wet/dry caused about a million bubbles to go into the tank but after about 30 seconds the bubbles were gone. The water was clear again. The porcupine never moved from her spot the whole time. I did not transfer media from the canisters to the wet/dry because I had the two established hob filters with sponges still on the tank.
March 17th- Checked my water that morning, no signs of a mini cycle. Porcupine still has not moved. Came home that evening she swam around very little and not very far. Checked my water again that evening still no signs of a mini cycle.
March 18th- The porcupine puffer was swimming around this morning, but instead of searching for food, she was bumping into everything, even the other puffers. Her eyes look hazed over more today than the last few days. After moving her into a qt, so that she would not hurt herself, I noticed this lump on her side that I haven't seen before. It's about the size of a peanut and causing her spines to stick up. Just about two weeks ago she had these odd spots on her fin and so did the Stars & Stripes. She has had them before and they seem to just go away without meds. Well again they went away without any meds. I don't know if these two things are related or not but thought I should mention it.
<Good to mention>
Well that pretty much brings us up to date. Sorry for the book I just wrote but I wanted to give all the details so that maybe, just maybe I can figure out what is wrong with her.
Here are a few pictures that I took this morning:
Picture of the lump
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/edmlfc1/?action=view&current=DSCF1926.jpg
Another picture of the lump
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/edmlfc1/?action=view&current=DSCF1925.jpg
Picture of her hazy eyes
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/edmlfc1/?action=view&current=DSCF1907.jpg
<Mmm, me neither... from the data presented. Such blindness and lumpiness episodes are too-common amongst spiny puffers though... some environmental and nutritional inputs... Please read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Possible HLLE in Pork Puffer, fins also involved 3/18/08
Hello Bob and Crew!
<Hello>
My VHO lighting crashed about 2 weeks ago.
Since then I've been substituting with two smaller strip-lights and 2 lamps.
I ordered a new ballast after replacing the bulbs and giving up on tinkering.
Anyways, my porcupine puffer has developed what looks like HLLE-The pale forehead, a few pits.
He hasn't eaten in 3 days, and he's been swimming away from me and staying towards the bottom, breathing heavily
<Not good.>
Very unusual for him. Also,  He also has some bits on his fins and tail where it's opaque, with a streak of brown.
I am setting up a QT tank, but I can't get a picture that's any help.
Can this be from the lack of light? Should I treat with an antibiotic?
<Not from lack of light directly, but probably due to lower water quality. What are your water parameters? HLLE is usually environmental and dietary in nature. I would not treat with antibiotics unless you diagnose a bacterial infection. See here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hllefaqs.htm >
<Chris>

Lactoria loss residual effects... stressed puffers   12/19/07
We have just recently lost our longhorn cowfish in the middle of the night.
The worst affected fish were our web burr fish and porcupine puffer. We immediately removed the puffs to our hospital tank. In our panic we did not realize that copper in high levels are very bad to puffers. Well we have been treating a hippo tang for ich with copper. Then we did a 50% water change, changed and increased our charcoal media in the filter. Then I came to this site to get anymore info I could about getting rid of the toxin and saving everything. I then read that copper can be very bad for puffers if it is too strong. So then I gave them both a fresh water bath and put them in the newly cleaned tank. Now my burr is swimming with his tail in the air, so then I read that I could "burp" him to get any ingested air out of his stomach.
<A note here for you and browsers... A good idea to NOT lift puffers into the air... to prevent their gulping it in>
Got a huge bubble out and he did better but now is doing it again, so I tried again but no air this time. My porcupine just sits on the bottom and barely moves. Also both fish have a huge white area the showed up soon after the copper treatment. Is there any hope for these fish or should I end their suffering? Please help, I feel so terrible.
Cic
<Mmm, just time going by... I would place all the removed animals back in the main system if the copper has been removed, there is no longer Crypt to contend with... Bob Fenner>

Ill/Malnourished Porcupine Puffer - 12/13/07
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have had a Porcupine puffer for almost a year now. Just recently he has just been sitting on the bottom of the tank only moving around when I come near the tank. I have feed him mysis shrimp, krill, squid and brine shrimp but now the only thing he will touch is the krill and even then he will chew it up and spit it out wasting more than he eats.
<How are his teeth? Puffer's natural diet consists of crustaceans that are crunchy. I would bet his main staple is the easiest to feed: krill. Even the other foods you are feeding him should be soaked in a good quality vitamin like Selcon. Here is a good list of puffer foods:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/feeding/feeding-your-puffers/ >
He is housed in a 180 gallon aquarium. pH 7.8, ammonia .25, nitrite 0, nitrate 10. The lionfish he is housed with seems to be doing fine. Should I try feeding some live food, maybe ghost shrimp or live brine?
<Neither have much nutrition, as they are mostly water unless gut-loaded with some kind of food. ANY ammonia at all is a problem & extremely toxic to your fish. You need to find the cause of ammonia. There should be none in an established tank. Whether it be uneaten food or an expired, smaller fish, you need to do a thorough cleaning under & around all decor with several water changes, to remedy the problem.>
Also, what kind of snails would he eat? He is paler than normal and also is breathing a little harder than normal.
<This could be because of the malnutrition from his present diet. My other concern would be if he got stung by your lionfish.>
Would it be beneficial to move him to a quarantine tank? I have a 100 gallon that is cycled with nothing in it.
<It might be a good idea to separate him from the lion & the ammonia.>
Also, I have treated the tank with garlic, this seemed ineffective.
<Try soaking the other kinds of foods listed in the link above in the garlic (and vitamins) to entice his eagerness to try something new.>
Please help, I would be devastated if I were to loose him. I am going to get some salt and do a water change to try and bring down the ammonia and nitrate and bring up the pH. Could this be the problem? If it was, wouldn't the lionfish be affected too?
<Maybe, I would think they would be as sensitive to ammonia problems as a puffer, which is why I have a concern for the puffer possibly having gotten stung. I hope he comes out of this a healthy, long-lived puffer! ~PP>
Thanks

Re: Ill/Malnourished Porcupine Puffer  11/13/07
<Hi there, I was hoping you might have noticed my corrections of your first letter. As written in a page on how to contact the WWM Crew: "PLEASE take the time to go over your messages to us...Common courtesy, a desire to serve as proper examples... should compel you to capitalize the beginnings of sentences, proper nouns, run your spell-checker... re-read your posts for clarity, completeness. Of the hours per day spent responding to, "moving around" "FAQs" this activity takes up the most time and is most onerous. Do help us help you here by reviewing, correcting your input as all content is answered, then posted on this website and read over MANY times by others." You sound like a nice person but his is the last one I will correct. The first letter took me almost 10 minutes.>
Should I be feeding him every other day still or should I try feeding him every day to get the vitamins in him faster?
<I suggest daily, until you see improvement.>
I did 2 25% water changes over the last 2 days and seemed to help with the ammonia and nitrate.
<That's great! Keep them up & do larger water changes if necessary, to keep the ammonia & nitrite at 0 & nitrate below 20 (below 10 is even better).>
I have been doing 50% monthly water changes would I be better off doing smaller weekly water changes or even daily water changes?
<Without a sump & refugium to keep your parameters steadier & lower, you need to do whatever water changes necessary to keep them from becoming toxic. I did 50% weeklies on my tank, until I added these extras to my system.>
I tried to feed him some ghost shrimp that were soaked in vitamins but he totally ignored it but ate the krill. Also he is somewhat eating clams and squid.
<Wonderful!>
He seems to be getting skinny. How long will he be able to survive with these eating habits? He's been like this for about 5 days now.
<Puffers can go quite some time without eating but it sounds like it's been a long time since this puffer has gotten proper nutrition. Keep trying to get him to eat healthy & soak his food in garlic in addition to the vitamin, to boost his appetite.>
Also, his teeth look good to me but I really don't know what to look for but they seem fairly short. I appreciate any help.
<Generally, the Diodon holacanthus species rarely have dentistry problems but I was concerned because of his previous diet. It doesn't seem to be a concern though. So keep up with the water changes & better diet & I think he'll pull through. ~PP>

Sick Porcupine Puffer??   12/9/07
I have had my Porcupine Puffer for about 8 months now and has been doing great up until 3 days ago he has become very inactive and seems to be breathing harder than normal and pale in color. He is still eating Krill and Mysis shrimp.
<If this is all he is eating, it may well be the source of his apparent problem. Feeding a puffer only Krill and Mysis for a long time will assuredly result in deficiency diseases… imagine exclusively eating rice crackers for half a year. Puffers should be fed a varied diet of mussels, clams, snails, shrimps, crabs etc. (…and squid from time to time). Also add vitamins to provide some nutrients that might have been lost during freezing/thawing. Anyway, it is a good sign he is still eating. >
I have him housed in a 180 gallon tank with a 90 gallon sump.
<Good system size for Diodon holocanthus.>
Also, he is housed with a 8 inch lionfish and a 18 inch moray eel both of which seem to be fine. Should I be worried or is he just going threw <through?> a stage?
<The elevated breathing and colour change would make me worried. Possibly his immune system is down and infections may gain a foothold now.>
Water quality checks out to be good.
<Numbers? Check the nitrates. If they are 20 or higher bring them down with adequate water changes.>
I know my lionfish will sometimes go a week every now and then with out eating when he is "shedding"
<… to remove any hitchhikers… sometimes triggered by a decline in water quality or by parasites… check both if the “shedding” occurs often.>
Do puffers go through a stage when they are inactive like this?
<No, this sounds more like a nutritional problem as described above.>
There is about 75 pounds of rock in the tank. Any help would be appreciated.
<Change the diet, add vitamins, check the nitrates and maybe your puffer will get well again. I wish you luck! Marco.>

We eat the rude... Mis-stocked burrfish, poor English, no searching ahead of writing.... Grrrr 12/07/2007
hi,
I am writing because I have a dilemma with my porcupine puffer. it has puffed up for no reason. it has puffed up a few times today. he shares a 100 gallon tank with a tomato clown, tang, dogface puffer, coral beauty and a pink tail trigger. right now he is puffed up floating at the top of the tank. how do I deflate him?
<... Please, fix your English before writing us... and search what is posted on WWM already, as instructed... You have a situation that has caused, will cause the Diodontid to puff-up... the Trigger... read re the Compatibility... Systems of the fishes you list. BobF>

Puffer with lump – 11/18/2007
Hey guys,
<Hi Jason>
I recently purchased a porcupine puffer last week, and have been getting some great info off of your website. After I acclimated my little 2" guy into a 55 gallon tank (soon to be a 120g), he seemed perfectly fine. The second and third day he had lost his appetite and started breathing fairly heavy. The staff at my local fish store suggested dropping the salinity, which I did over the next few days (from 1.025 to 1.012).
<No need for hyposalinity here as long as no clear Whitespot infection occurs. Keep monitoring the water parameters and assure surface movement and skimming are sufficient to provide enough oxygen.>
The salinity drop didn't help his breathing, but it did bring back his appetite in full force.
<He needs to settle in. This can take a week.>
After I woke up this morning, I noticed that he had a lump in his tail, just to the right of
his back fin (approximately 1/2" in diameter and a few millimetres tall). It also appeared that his back fin was immobile, and he was floating tail-up/face down.
<Some gas in his intestines.>
I immediately though that he may have swallowed air during the night, so I attempted to burp him. After I submerged my hand in the tank, the bump went away,
<…this confirms it’s a gas bubble and no bacterial lump or tumor.>
and he started swimming normally. After I removed my hand from the tank, the lump came back, and he started swimming tail up/face down again. Is he a little trickster or is that common?
<This bubble is not common, but porcupine puffers with problems while settling in are more than common.>
What else can I try to regulate his breathing?
<Salinity should be 1.025 again. Provide enough oxygen by surface movement and skimming. Monitor pH, nitrites, ammonia, nitrates and act accordingly if endangering changes occur. If still necessary try to massage the gas bubble out of his rear end. Look for tiny white spots (marine velvet), salt like spots (marine white spot), cloudy eyes (secondary bacterial infection) and see WWM re.>
(Here is my tank info: 55 Gallons, pH 8.2, Water Temp 78-80 degrees, Salinity 1.015, Ammonia/Nitrates/Nitrites 0, Diet: krill, brine shrimp, snails,
<Should also add mussel flesh, clams and avoid to feed too much krill and brine shrimp. Add vitamins from time to time.>
Tankmates: 1 striped damsel, 1 small red crab (both are really good about hiding from the puffer when he looks hungry!). Any suggestions?
<See above and if you have not it read yet: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm and the linked files above.>
Jason
<Good luck. Marco.>

Sick puffer, burrfish env.   11/6/07
Hello people,
<Jesse>
I am hoping that you can help me with my Porcupine Puffer. I have had him for about 6 months and he has been doing great. He is in a 250g tank and the parameters are Ammonia: 0, Nitrate: 0, Nitrite: 30 (this has become a common reading since he was first introduced to the tank.
<I would be reading, making plans on how to lower this...>
Temp: 76-79, PH: 8.4, Gravity 1.020 (I was advised to lower it from 1.025 by my LFS).
<Mmm, I would not do this... for the reasons stated on WWM...>
About 3 weeks ago, his skin became blotchy and he developed dry spots across his back. The LFS said it looked like a fungal infection,
<... no>
but did not offer a remedy other than serious antibiotics.
<... a very poor idea>
I decided to raise the temperature to 81 degrees, and perform fresh water dips with methlyne (sp?) blue for 15 min.s.
<... ditto>
I also turned off the lights for most of the day. The puffer ate regularly, but often hid under rocks or rested in between rock formations for the majority of the day. I would also find that he would occasionally puff up after I had turned out the lights. After a week of treatment, he seemed ok.
The infection
<Not an infection>
was no longer visible and he was back to his normal self. Last Monday he suddenly stopped eating. He has not eaten in over a week and swims away as though he is afraid of the hand that usually feeds him. He usually eats squid, prawns and octopus supplemented with Vita-Chem.
<Good>
I also occasionally feed him snails and crayfish to wear down his teeth. I have no idea what to do with him. My only other thought was that another fish was picking on him. I had added an Emperor Angel to my tank about 2 months ago, but I have never witnessed any aggression between him or the other fish. I hope that this was enough information; I would be terribly embarrassed if this was the funkiest question of the day.
Thanks,
Jesse
<Heeeee! No worries. I would improve the environment... slowly raise the spg to seawater concentration (like a thousandth per day) and seek out the means of reducing and keeping the NO3 below 20 ppm... See WWM re... and this fish will return to good health. Bob Fenner>

Puffer Problems - Help! Error upon error upon...  10/27/07
Hello All;
I'm in distress. We have a porcupine puffer in our 30 gallon cube (I know too small but for now so is he). We have ich. I started to treat the tank with Cupramine (suggested by Store owner)
<... not in the display tank... You'll kill off all beneficial life...>
as I have no QT. I took all the inverts out and did the first dose. Tonight is the scheduled second dose but I am reading here that I may have made a mistake with this.....
Simply put, what should I do now?????
Sincerely,
Tim and Doreen
<Read... and either move the fishes to treat them elsewhere, or ask someone else (the helpful store?) to do so. Start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm
and the linked files above, particularly on copper use. Bob Fenner>

Very very sick porcupine puffer, needing to read re sys., fdg....    8/30/07
I have a 90 gallon salt water tank.
<Too small...>
My porcupine puffer ate alot
<No such word>
of krill
<Insufficient diet>
for about 8 months and was always in great shape. Over the last 6 weeks when he tries to eat he kind of spits the shrimp back out with alot of air bubbles and would try a few more times and give up. I started breaking it up in smaller pieces and once in a while would eat a little. He always wanted it but had trouble. Until today he was still swimming around the top of the tank. Tonight he is on the bottom, kind of curled up and breathing heavy. He also seems very pale with white undertones. I am afraid he wont make it through the night. what can I do?
Thanks
Dean
<Read. Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm
the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Burrfish With "Ich"? 8/7/07
<Hi Mark, Pufferpunk here>
I was trying to find out if a burr puffer could get ick?
<Actually ich, which is a freshwater disease, short for Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.><<Mmm, both fresh and marine are commonly called "ich". RMF>>
I have had him for a month or two, its doing great, eating fine. I just started seeing little white dotts on its fins and body. Could you help me and what could I do.
<Yes they can get crypt, short for Cryptocaryon irritans (the marine form of ich). Best treatment is hyposalinity. You can look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm in addition to countless other articles at WWM on the subject. Also: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/hospital/swich/ How long have you had this fish? There is a high death rate of this fish in captivity, due to refusal to eat. ~PP>
Thank you, Mark.

Re: Burr Puffer with SW "Ich"  8/9/07
<Hi Mark>
I have had him for about two months and he has no problem eating and even takes food from my hand. He is always looking, for or eating food non-stop. Will the puffer work thru this or should I do something? He is housed with a Huma trigger, Yellow tang, Snowflake eel, Lyretail wrasse and a pair of Marron Clows.
<Maroon clowns?>
Should I worry about any of these fish?
<It's up to you, whether you should treat all the fish or wait it out to see if the burrfish gets any worse. He's more sensitive to the parasite, since he has no scales. Sometimes I have seen a light case of crypt goes away on it's own but you are chancing all the inhabitants getting it. I'd at least QT the puffer & treat it. If you see the parasite on any of the other fish, then you will have to follow the instructions for hyposalinity for everyone (in QT of course) & leave the main tank fallow. Were there any new tank mates added recently? ~PP>
Thank you for all your help, Mark

Bloated Puffer 7/5/07
Hi Guys,
<Hi Chris, Pufferpunk here (I'm a gal).>
I have been reading WWM for a few years now and found a ton of advice on this "obsession" of mine, but have never written, until now.
<Aren't we all obsessed after a few years?>
I have a 180 gallon FOWLR that includes a Blue Face Angel, Emperor Angel, Naso Tang, Hippo Tang, Porcupine Puffer and a Niger Trigger. All of the fish are at least 5" or bigger (in the case of the Angels).
They have been happy in the tank for over 18 months and have not had any issues other than eat $1500 of my coral (hence the FOWLR he he).
<Too bad...>
My fish are literally pigs and will eat anything you put in the tank with them but the puffer will only eat frozen krill.
<Really bad diet for a puffer. I have seen way too many incidents of puffers fed a main diet of krill, developing lockjaw & eventually starving to death. See here for better diet & methods of getting it to eat other foods: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library/category/feeding/ >
He has done this for the 3 years that I have had him and I feed him 1 time every other day or third day (basically
feed him till he can't eat).
<Letting a puffer gorge itself isn't good for him either. It results in a lot of non-digested food, causing a liver problems (fatty liver) & a polluted environment. Feed until a slightly rounded tummy.>
He has been very normal till a day or two ago when I noticed that he was trying to poop and the Hippo tang was trying to
eat the waste before it even came out (since it is pure krill).
<Exactly>
But at the same time, it wasn't allowing Puff to get out all his excess. He was picking so bad that when Puff tried to squeeze some out...the tang was attacking his "hole" and really aggravating the fish.
<Poor puffer!>
So I have been watching him and his belly is getting larger and hasn't eaten in 2 days. I am afraid that he is scared to poop now and will hold in the waste till it literally kills him.
<It is possible but also it may just be constipated.>
Have you seen or heard this before? Is there anything that I can do to help?
<You could try to feed it vegetable matter, like peas or algae wafers (puffers usually won't eat these but some have). Otherwise, add Epsom salt, 1tbsp/5g. It would be best to quarantine the fish. This is one of the many reasons, it is suggested to keep a puffer in a tank by itself or with less aggressive tankmates it can't catch. ~PP>
Sincerely, Chris

Re: Bloated Puffer 7/6/07
Hi PP,
<Hey Chris>
Thanks for the reply. I know that the krill only is not the best diet, so I actually tried silversides (didn't eat them)
<Most puffers are not fish eaters.>
and recently put in a cleaner crew of 100 Turbos and 100 blue-legged crabs. To my surprise he ate every single one! He would pick up the shell and crush them. So his diet isn't just krill really.
<Yes puffers ware crustacean eaters & will generally eat your cleaner crews. This doesn't change the fact that up till now, his diet was mostly krill. He needs to get off that food immediately.>
Is it possible that he ate something that he can't digest? Maybe ate one of the crab shells without crushing it first?
<I really doubt it, since that is it's natural diet in the wild.>
I read the link you sent and when he gets better I will definitely vary his diet.
<I'd still try to offer him some veggies & see if he tries them.>
Thanks for your help,
<Of course! ~PP>
Chris

Porcupine Puffer stung by lionfish! 6/28/07
Hey there, <Hi Jeff, MacL here with you tonight.>
I have been using your website to research and learn for many years now and it appears I can't find any information on my current problem.
I have a porcupine puffer who would be about 5 inches, and he shares the tank with a 6 inch Picasso trigger and a 5 inch Volitans lionfish and a yellow head moray eel.. All tankmates seem to get a long most of the time with the odd argument between the puffer and the trigger, (he has never puffed up though as a result)<You know I have had my puffer for five years and haven't seen him puff up once.> however about a week ago during feeding time (which is awe inspiring to watch them all eat) <Lord I bet, I can just imagine> the lionfish had not yet engulfed his whole fish when the porcupine puffer decided it was time to get some of that fish from his mouth. Now as he swam toward the lion the puffer ever so lightly swam down onto the dorsal spines of the lion and quickly dashed in the other direction.
After about half an hour the puffer had a small ring of blood in his left eye and it eventually went away and now that one eye is cloudy. <Definitely sounds like they had a close encounter. I've seen animals recover from being stung but having personally been stung it hurts like you wouldn't believe.> He seems still relatively happy and he still has a fine appetite however he has become far more docile than he used to be. Of course he comes out a little more at night but he used to follow us around the room and now doesn't come out as often. <I'm sure he's both wary of the lionfish and wary of his tankmates since he does have an injury and possibly cannot see as well as normal. While I do not advocate medicating unless its necessary I would definitely keep an eye on his eye to make sure its clearing up on its own quickly. I personally recommend adding something like Selcon with vitamin C to assist in the cure but if the eye doesn't appear to be healing on its own you might need to consider adding an antibiotic. I wouldn't add it unless he appears to be having problems healing because it does mess with the tanks bacteria on occasion as well. >
I guess that it is cloudy eye due to the stress of being stung by the lion but just wanted to double check there is nothing I should do, as we would be devastated to lose our cute little ET impersonator!!! <To me its sounds more like he was stung in his eye because you saw the ring of blood in his eye. Usually there is a mark where they get stung. Keeping your tank healthy is the best thing you can do for your fish as you very well know. If he doesn't show signs of improvement in two or three days I would look into antibiotics for assistance. Your tank sounds lovely and amusing. Good luck, MacL>
Any advice would be appreciated..
Regards
Jeff

Porcupine Puffer 911, no useful data, bizarre treatment  - 06/27/07
Dear Wet Web Media Crew,
I have a question for you regarding my Porcupine Puffer. I went out of town last week for 4 days and when I got back I noticed that my puffer is only hanging out in the top left corner of the tank. His tail fin is ragged and disintegrating (his other fins are fine), and his back is hunched up (like a hunchback). He is breathing a little heavier than normal, but he does eat frozen food and dried seaweed with gusto every time I feed the tank. I currently have the temp cranked up to 88 degrees
<Why?>
(for 36 hours)
and I have been adding monocycline antibiotic tablets for the past 2 days (to help with the tail fin problem and ward off secondary bacterial infections).
<?>
Any idea what is wrong with him? Is there anything else I should be doing to treat him? The other fish in the tank seem just fine, and there weren't any problems until I went out of town. I was only gone for 4 days, but something is definitely wrong with him. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
--Danny
<... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pufferdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Porcupine puffer with white-spot disease, lots of reading required – 06/16/07
I reviewed your site and needed help saving my porcupine puffer. <Will do what I can.> We got her probably about 3 weeks ago. She was swimming around and eating adapting to her new environment rather well. All of a sudden she started getting little white dots all over her body. I called the store that I bought her from and they said to put marine C in the tank daily and see if that helps <...>. I also put a lot of fish in at once and they advised to do a water change daily due to too many fish introduced at a time <...>. That actually worked <Seems it didn’t>. Everything was great for about a week. Then all of a sudden we woke up one day and she had clouded eye on one eye <secondary bacterial infection.>. I called the store again and they advised to use MelaFix for 7 days and then do a 25% water change <Melafix won’t help much in this case.>. If it doesn't clear then repeat for 3 more days. It has been three days now she is swimming around a little. She has white spots all over so I gave her a fresh water dip. During the dip I noticed that on her back it looked like her skin is pealing off <Losing her slime coat>. Please help?? What do I do to save her and keep the other fish in my tank alive at the same time?
<You need a hospital tank (no live rock, no invertebrates, no substrate.>. All fish need to be transferred to this tank while the display tank stays fallow for at least 4 weeks. If the white spots are salt-grain like, treat against Cryptocaryon with hyposalinity or chelated copper (see WWM re; if you use copper, do not overdose and monitor well). If the spots are tiny and numerous, treat against Amyloodinium with chelated copper or formalin (again: read all about it on WWM and do not overdose). The latter disease would be very bad and can kill a puffer in 48 hours. It seems you need to read a lot. Aside searching WWM for Cryptocaryon and Amyloodinium with the search tool, read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diodontpuffers.htm and the linked FAQs on diseases. All you need is already written on WetWebMedia. Good luck. Marco.>

Puffer vs. Power head... and the winner is... sys., dis.   5/31/07
HI crew,
<Jesse>
Last night I added two new power heads to my 220g tank that were rated for 400g/h. This morning I woke to find my Porcupine Puffer stuck in the intake of one of the power heads.
<Not an uncommon occurrence>
I am sick about it and quickly removed him while turning off the other power heads. He suffered a giant hickie around his front fin, but has been swimming around rather well. The color also began to return to the area within an hour of the event. My big worry is that he is not really using his gill on the affected side of his body. It is pretty swollen will he be able to heal from the wound?
<Hopefully>
Is there anything I can do for him other than maintain healthy water conditions and a good diet?
<This is about "it">
My wife and I are both very upset. He is our favorite fish in the tank. I assume the color returning is a good sign, but please let us know if there is anything else, we can do to help him heal.
Thank you,
Jesse
<Intake skimmer/s on all powerhead/s... Supplied or retrofitted. Bob Fenner>

Sick porcupine puffer   5/13/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have been an avid reader of your website for over a year, am constantly reading up on your answers to people with situations similar to my own (as well as non-similar - in case something unexpected comes up), and recommend your site to others.  This is however my first time writing to you, and I'm sorry but it is a kind of long story.
<No worries. Take your time>
  I currently have a sick porcupine puffer, he was about 6 inches, end to end when I first got him about a year and a half ago, but now he is approximately 9 inches.  He has been sick for about 2-3 months now.  The illness first manifested itself as a swollen nose, which we did not think too much of, assuming he had bumped his nose on something.
<Likely so>
  However the swollen nose turned into 3-4 well defined and separated bumps and he stopped eating or being very active.  At that point we removed him from his tank (75G with a 20G sump-he is the only fish, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates hover around 40
<Too high...>
which we try to bring down to less than 10 with frequent water changes-water comes from an RO unit) and put him in a 75 gallon bare bottom quarantine tank.  He continued to get worse and soon we noticed he was breathing hard.  With a flashlight we saw white spots on his gills, about the size of sand grains, and so we assumed he had ich as well as a bacterial infection in his nose.
<Mmmm... much more likely these spots were something else... even just resultant from the nitrate poisoning...>
  We began treating him with Cupramine in the quarantine tank, carefully monitoring the copper levels twice a day.  Since he still wasn't eating we twice had to anesthetize him using clove oil and force feed him (his diet typically consists of thawed shrimp, mussels, squid and whatever else we buy at the seafood dept at the grocery store, soaked in Vitachem).  During one of the times he was anesthetized we aspirated some pus like liquid from his nose using a sterile needle (we are microbiologists) to look at under the microscope.
<Neat>
A local vet we found not long after biopsied one of the bumps and sent it for analysis, concerned Tiki (the puffer) might have fish TB.  
<Mycobacterial problems in ornamental aquatics... are quite common... But there is always the issue of cause/effect to consider...>
While we were waiting for the results we began treating with Isoniazid, Kanamycin, and vitamin B6 and Tiki actually began to get better.  His breathing has completely slowed down, the white spots on his gills have disappeared, and he has been eating on his own for about 2 weeks now; responding when we hold a glass in front of the tank and tracking us with his eyes or coming over when we come to look at him.  The bumps on his nose have also gone down.  However, the current problem (and I'm really sorry it's taken so long to get here) is that one of his eyes is cloudy and has white spots on it.
<Very likely this is secondary... unilateral involvements are almost always... resultant here from a "bump", trauma...>
I really believe this is related to his nose infection and I can tell that it bothers him since he sometimes rubs his eye against the side or bottom of the tank.  The eye has been cloudy probably for almost two weeks now, the white spots are new since yesterday.  Also the results of the lab analysis came back and they found gram positive coccobacilli in the material from his nose, however the bacteria was not acid fast, aka it is not fish TB.
<Correct>
  From what I understand a gram positive infection is fairly rare in saltwater fish.  
<Also correct>
So I am curious as to which antibiotics I should now begin administering for both his eye and his nose.  If anyone could offer any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you so much.
<Well... a bunch to state, or that could be stated... IF you were to avail yourself of antibiotic use I would definitely make this an injectable... As you have access to a Vet, and are in the micro- field/s... I would "skip right ahead" and locate/use Chloramphenicol/Chloromycetin (in a succinic acid base)... See (Ed) Noga re this if your Vet cannot relate the use here.
I WOULD definitely fix the nitrate issue (this could actually be the a priori cause of all problems here)... See WWM re NO3 cures...
AND I would like to encourage you to delve a bit more into pathogenic fish disease and perform at least body slime/smears, sans staining next time you believe a disease-causing organism like Crypt is present. Bob Fenner>

Porcupine puffer with discoloration, probably a bacterial infection – 04/22/07
Hello guys!
<Hi Mark. Marco here with you today.>
I just recently discovered your website – seems if you do a search for any kind of fish problem, google points right to your site. It has been very helpful.
I picked up my porcupine puffer 3 days ago and right away he was up swimming around the tank (not pouting at all). He has been eating fine and everything seems to be healthy with him except today he has developed this discoloration all over the top part of his head.
<Not good.>
He didn’t have any signs of this when I first purchased him.
<Porcupine puffers often get ill when stressed.>
I don’t see any spotting or anything so I am assuming this isn’t Ich, but could not find anything about this in any other postings. I have attached a picture of my puffer (the best I could get anyway).
<I assume your tank is cycled? Check your nitrates, which can be another stress factor.>
Is this some kind of disease and should I be concerned?
<Yes and yes. Looking at the picture you took he probably has a bacterial infection, maybe  Vibrio if it is reddish. If it grows, you need to act as soon as possible. You will need an antibiotic for gram negative bacteria (e.g. Maracyn Two). You can treat him in a bare bottom hospital tank or (using higher concentrations) apply daily half an hour to one hour aerated dips. Read all about bacterial infections/treatment/antibiotics at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/infectio.htm and the related FAQs. Also search for Vibrio.>
Or maybe it has to do with stress of being moved?
<Stress leads to a weak immune system and consequently to an outbreak of diseases.>
Thanks for any help or advice you can give! It’s appreciated.
<Hope he pulls through.>
-Mark

Porcupine puffer with discoloration, probably bacterial infection II – 04/24/07
Marco,
Thank you so much for your reply. You were the only person we could get to give us any real advice and it is so much appreciated. Unfortunately, our puffer passed away last night. :( He was my favorite fish and I'm still very sad about this.
<I am very sorry for your loss. Happens much too often with porcupine puffers, they are so sensitive. I’d check the water parameters to be sure everything is ok with your tank, anyway.>
I wanted to ask if there is any way to support your website. I think it is great what you do.
<Thanks for your kind words. With regard to support maybe Bob has something to add. Being a conscientious aquarist and keeping on to learn is a good way to honor the work of the crew in my personal opinion.>
Thank you again, Mark.
<Take care. Sorry he did not make it. Marco.>

Dead puffer with cut open side; Tetraodotoxin release ? – 04/16/07
Hey, How are you all today?
<Hi. Don’t know about the others, but I’m ok.>
Well last week my puffer died due to ich. I tried everything to get rid of the darn parasite, but nothing has helped.
<Sorry for your loss. Much too common with porcupine puffers.>
I worked up to see my porcupine puffer dead. I couldn't recognize the fish. The skin was off and his under side was cut open (yes I saw his stomach!!). I don't believe my eel attacked it, because my eel would maybe be dead due to toxins. I'm guessing my starfish tried to eat it, but left it alone after it tasted the puffer.
<Not necessarily. Moray eels are resistant to several similar toxins, so, although I do not have specific information about them and Tetraodotoxin (marine puffer toxin), it seems well possible for moray eels to eat puffers. However, in your case I suggest he tried to puff (as they often do before they die) and his connective tissue (weak due to whatever reason) and skin cracked. I have seen such cases or/and the results in tanks with no other fish.>
My question is: did toxins release from the puffer into the water?
<Improbable. Tetraodotoxin does not dissolve well in saltwater. In contrast, boxfish (not puffers) can secrete ostracitoxin (informal name for the still unnamed boxfish poison), which does dissolve in saltwater. To be on the safe side you may want to filter with fresh carbon.>
It seems like my lionfish wants to eat, but he can barely open up his mouth to grab the food. Any thought?
<Watch him. Could be lock jaw, which in general is supposed to be caused by an unvaried diet or vitamin deficiency. Could also be a sign of an infection with the parasite your puffer had. See if he is breathing heavy to confirm.>
Oh, I'm also selling the aquarium setup if your interested! Thanks! Ben.
<Take care. Marco.>

Porc with possible bacterial infection 03/26/07
I was hoping you could assist me with my puffer problem.
<I’ll try. For further questions consider visiting http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/ . Many experienced people with regard to puffers can be found there.>
I have a Porcupine Puffer and he seems so be fine as far as eating and swimming, but I noticed a pale spot on his head. It has grown from the mouth to his fin and surrounds his eye. His eye looks ok it is not cloudy or enlarged. The area is very pale and appears almost as if a layer of skin has been removed. The rest of his body is normal. Could cooper have caused this issue because I had treated my tank with copper power for ich 8 weeks ago and I am currently using activated carbon to remove it as of yesterday?
<Probably a bacterial infection due to a weak immune system.>
My LFS instructed me to leave the copper in to make sure the Puffer did not get ich.
<After eight weeks you can remove the copper.>
My water parameters are ammonia 0, nitrites 0 nitrates 40 (I will be doing a water change this week) it is a 220 FOWLR and the temperature is 80 and gravity is 1.016.
<Your water change should be 50%. Provide a varied diet of mussel flesh, prawn and squid. Soak the food in vitamins. Inappropriate diet consisting only of one type of food is the number one reason for sick porcupine puffers. Start increasing the specific gravity again by 0.002 per week.>
Should I treat with an antibiotic?
<If it keeps on spreading: yes. Ask a vet to identify if the bacteria are gram positive or negative. If you cannot find a vet, who does that, treat with antibiotics recommended for gram negative infections, since they occur more often.> <<Heeeeee! You can't get most Americans to change the oil in their cars! RMF>>
Thank you, Jesse.
<Good luck. Marco.>

Porc with possible bacterial infection II 03/27/07
Thanks, but I unfortunately lost my puffer. Last night when I returned home the infection had spread and he was blind in his left eye. This is the second puffer I have lost, while all my other fish are very healthy. I feed them krill, mussels, prawns, scallops, squid, Spirulina enhanced brine shrimp and all are soaked in Zoa vitamins (recommended by LFS). I recently purchased. I tried to QT him, but it failed and this morning he was gone. The disease spread very fast. Is this common with porcupine puffers because I have tried to be very careful with the specimens I have purchased. I have researched constantly, but seem to have very bad luck with these fish. Jesse.
<I am really sorry for your loss. Bacterial infections are common with weak Percs. Stress and bad water quality are factors that need to be avoided. Your diet sounds perfect, probably something else impaired his immune system, maybe the high nitrates, maybe the low specific gravity, maybe the copper treatment. Marco.>

Head down bum up porcupine fish   3/19/07
Hi guys and g’day from down under
You are the greatest!
<G'day! and thank you.  Brandon here.>
You gave me some much appreciated advice with my seahorses last year, and now I’m in need of some help with my porcupine fish.
<Glad to hear that the Seahorses turned out ok.>
I’ve had him for 12 months now, I got him when he looked like a spiky little olive, about an inch long.
<They are so cute when they are little.>
It took about 8 months for him to come out of his shell and become active. He used to only come out of his cave at feeding time, but now he’s out most of the time.
<Good.>
He is about 3 ½ inches long and has been fine up until now. 2 days ago I came home to find him in the corner with his tail facing upwards, and his face in the sand. He has a small bulge in his rear end, and I assume he has swallowed some air.
<This sounds very likely.>
He snaps at food on the surface aggressively, like a savage little dog, and spits bubbles out regularly during feeding.
<Spitting out the bubbles is a good sign.>
I have read other messages on WWM advising on burping to release the trapped air, and I have tried this. The problem I have is when I hold him with his face up, he puffs up and his spikes become very hard as they point outward.
<You can try this, not something that I would do personally.  Make sure that his head does not come out of the water.  This will just compound the problem.>
I can’t rub him to try to expel the air, because I don’t want to end up with a spike through my skin, and if I tap him gently with one finger, but he just keeps puffing. He does deflate, and then puff up again, but no bubbles come out of his mouth. I have tried twice with no success, and I don’t want to stress him anymore. Is there anything more I can do, or is there a preferred method of trying to release the air?
<Let him try to do it on his own.  Not much else you can do here.  Bob, am I missing something?> <<Mmm, not to worry re the "spikes" poking through your skin... they're pretty dull... I would capture this fish (two nets) and gently squeeze it from the underside, rear, moving fingers toward the front... to try and expel the air here. RMF>>
Thanking you in advance, and all of my sea creatures thank you as well.
<You are welcome.  I hope that this helps.  Check the dailies to see what Bob has to say.  Brandon.>
Dario.

Re: head down bum up porcupine fish  3/23/07
<Hello Dario.>
I appreciate your advice, and you were right.
<Ahh. Good.>
It took about 4 days, but my puffer sorted the problem out himself.
<Did you check the Daily FAQ section on the site?  When Bob replied, he said that you should not worry about being poked with the spines.  Just rub gently from below the air bubble, up the stomach to the mouth.>
He is all cool again.
<This is good.  Glad to hear it.>
He still pokes his head out of the water during feeding time, but at least now he has experience in getting rid of air bubbles by himself.
<Hmmm.  I would still try to get the food in the water before he has a chance to stick his head out.  Safer in the long run.>
Thanks very much.
<You are most welcome.  Brandon.>

Porcupine Puffer and Ich... need... to read... develop a trtmt. strategy... and act!  3/6/07
I have had a Porcupine Puffer for about 3 weeks now. I haven't added anything new to the tank, but about yesterday I noticed that she seems to have come down with Ich (lots of white spots all over her body and fins).
<Lots?>
I did a fresh water dip and a 33% water change yesterday and most of the spots seem to have gone away by this morning. However when I got home from work today, I found that she seems to have broken out again.
<Ah, does read like this is Crypt>
I did another dip and waterchanges immediately.
<... Your system has the parasite... dipping, water-changing won't effect a cure here>
In my freshwater tank, I use Mela-Fix,
<Worthless>
but I am leery to use chemicals in the puffer's tank because of the possible use of copper.
The bottle of Mela-Fix I have doesn't explicitly say it does or doesn't have any copper in it,
<It's a "tea" made of soaked Melaleuca leaves... a marginal bacteriostatic... at best>
but I am not sure. Do you know of any products that can help treat my water that is copper free? Should the chemical say one way or another about its copper use?
Thanks,
-Chris Meyer
<Please read here (and soon): http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cryptpuffs.htm
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner>

Web Burrfish with ripped up face   2/22/07
Hi WWM crew!
<Anthony>
I have a Chilomycterus antillarum in a 150 G tank that must have recently scrapped it out with one of his tankmates.  I woke up one morning to find that the side of his mouth and upper lip had been torn off.  Aside from that, he seems to be ok, swimming, eating normally.  The tears don't
actually touch his eyes, but they come very close to his right eye.  This morning when I woke up, he (? - is there any way to sex these things?)
<Not externally; as far as I know>
had what looked like little white squiggly lines ( inside?) his eye.  Kind of like little tiny pieces of spaghetti I guess.   Could this be caused by
stress related to his injury?
Thanks,
Anthony
<Mmm, maybe... could even be a parasite it "got" while in the wild, expressing itself... in all events, I would do what you can to discover, remove the bully/cause of the injury here, and bolster this fish's immune system with vitamin supplementing its favorite foods. Bob Fenner>

"Ingrown" Spines on Puffer?    2/3/07
Thank you for you help.
<No problem.  Pufferpunk here with you today.>
I have spent a couple of days reviewing your website and have not found my answer.
<Thanks for looking 1st!>
With the purchase of our home we "inherited" a salt water tank. We are not very knowledgeable but have grown very attached to our fish especially our dog faced puffer and we feel an overwhelming sense of responsibility for these fish.
<I can't blame you.  They're more like a dog, than a fish.>
Your site was most helpful when he was very sick with ich about 1 yr ago. He is acting well, eating with none of his previous symptoms. However, over the last few weeks I have noticed some bumps (about 4-5) over his back and now some are protruding like small spines or spikes. It started with some a couple and now there are more and 2 are protruding spines! There is no redness and as I said he is acting fine. Our fish service person has "no idea" what it is, but we want to make sure that it is nothing serious before it is a real problem.
<Sometimes their spines stick out, like an ingrown hair.  Nothing to worry about.  ~PP>   
Thanks for either reassuring me or helping me if I should worry.
Thanks, Brenda I. Troche MD

Burping Your Puffer  1/28/07
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.
<You're very welcome Ben, Pufferpunk here.>
My wife and I purchased a porcupine puffer today.  
<Wonderful, personable pet!>
The LFS we bought it from is highly reputable with the 4 saltwater clubs in my area.  
<Good choice.>
When the owner of the store approached the tank with a net, I asked if it should be caught with a container instead.  The owner said not to worry and caught the puffer easily with the net and placed it in a very large bag while still inside the tank.  The puffer was not exposed to air and didn't flinch during the entire process.  I acclimated the puffer over 2 hours using the drip method.  I then used my large net to move it into my tank.  Of course it puffed up while being transferred this time.  
<Ummm... I don't get it.  You didn't want the shop to catch the fish with a net but you did instead???>
The puffer came out of the net easily but was full of air and couldn't even get away from the water's surface.  
<Which is why a puffer should never be caught with a net & exposed to air.  Can prove to be deadly.>
My wife rushed to the PC and WetWebMedia.  She searched for "puffer air" and found one of your replies regarding how to burp a puffer.  It's now been about 6 hours and the puffer is eating mysis, picking at my snails and small hermits and resting near the sand bed at the bottom.  I'm so grateful for your wisdom, experience, and willingness to share them both.
<Glad you found that info.>
I do have one question though.  My puffer, even when sitting near the sand bed picking at shells, uses its front fins more than I think it should.  It's almost as though it's fighting a small air bubble to stay near the bottom of the tank.  Do porcupine puffers have their front side fins in constant motion?  
<Puffers do not swim like other fish.  They need to constantly move their fins to "hover" in the water.  It should however, be able to lay motionless, without struggling to keep upright, when resting.>
There could be a small air bubble still inside, as the top line of the puffer from head to tail isn't exactly straight.  It has a very slight, hunched appearance.
<Here is more info on burping: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library.php?p=54
You're welcome to join in on that forum & post about your puffer.  There are many good articles in the Library there & also in the Marine Puffer section.  Enjoy your new puppy, er... puffer!  ~PP>
Thanks in advance, Ben

Puffer Problem  12/20/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Our porcupine puffer was purchased approx. two weeks ago and was fine for a week.
<Was he placed into a fully cycled tank?>
Now he has white over his eyes and appears to be blind. He is not eating and is lethargic. He is breathing shallow and doesn't even attempt to escape upon being touched. We treated him with a freshwater dip for the ich but are not seeing improvements. Help!!!!
<What ich?  Ich cannot be treated with 1 FW dip.  Please read:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4576
Please post your water parameters: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH.  ~PP>

Porcupine Puffers... a paucity of useful info. re dis.  - 11/11/06
I have two porcupine puffers purchased at the same time
<When?>
but housed in different aquariums, both exhibiting the same symptoms, one beginning yesterday, the other today.  They have been eating well, seem to have adjusted, then developed a darkening and swelling of the skin, which seems to be spreading quickly.  Now lethargic and not eating, within 24 hours of onset of symptoms.  Treating with PimaFix and oral penicillin.
<Neither likely useful...>
  Do you know what this is or what I can do?
<Time to "punt"... look to root causes... Highly likely (both) environmental... What water quality? Filtration to spiff up?... Bob Fenner>
Thanks so much!

Re: porcupine puffer?   11/15/06
thank you , yeah I know he will out grow it but I'm just gonna start with a 2-3 inch for now then go to a 200 gallon maybe and thanks for helping me.
<Mmm, hotay! BobF>

Blind Porcupine Puffer? 10/15/06
I have a 150 gal saltwater aquarium. About a month ago, all of my fish had signs of ick after the addition of a new fish. I treated the entire tank & they all seemed to be back to normal.
About 2 days ago, i noticed that my porcupine puffers eyes were both completely white & he seems to be blind. He is moving around the tank at night, and he seems to smell the food, but does not attempt to go after it, which is completely abnormal behavior for him. I'm worried because he has not eaten for 2 days now. Could this be related to the ick outbreak? <More likely due directly to the medication or indirectly by altering the water quality.> Any suggestions? <Try a good 10-15% water change and follow it up with another one in a week or so... keep your eyes on things. The puffer can go for several weeks without food but you may want to try offering favorite food items on a feeding stick to encourage the puffer to eat.>
Thank you for your time.
<Cheers, J -- >

Puffer with serious Ich outbreak... writer w/ serious lack of reading    10/3/06
Crew,
   <Ben>
  I have a porcupine puffer and he just recently got a serious ich outbreak. The parasite is everywhere on him. I did a freshwater dip on him for about 5 min.s.
<?>
The Ich has no signs of dieing. Do I need to do a hyposalinity? I was told that freshwater dips are the way to go? But the ich will not die! How many times do I need to freshwater dip him, every day?
     Appreciate all your help,
  Ben
<... help yourself: Read on WWM re Diodontid Disease, Cryptocaryon, hyposalinity if you want. BobF>

Re: Puffer Question   9/26/06
Bob -
<Daniel>
Thanks for the response... I plan to eventually move him to my 250g tank - wanted to start him in the 75 where I could keep an eye on him.
<I see>
I'll try a few of the tricks on the site - particularly the ghost shrimp.  
When should I begin to worry?
<Weeks...>
  He doesn't look skinny, but when I called the LFS where he was purchased from, they told me the puffers in the tank had been "picky lately".
thanks again!
<Happens... not generally... "anything". I would not be concerned at this point/juncture. BobF>

Injured Porcupine Puffer...Too Small Tank/Questionable System - 09/13/06
Hello to you all.
<<Howdy>>
Your site is excellent and very helpful, I recently bought a porcupine puffer, I've read a lot on how to look after these fish, it's taken two days to settle in and eat properly, he is the only fish in a new 55 Gallon tank.
<<Mmm...I think you may not have done enough reading-up on this fish as this tank is too small for the long-term good health of this fish>>
With about 25kg live rock and live sand.  Water quality is all good, as I've used my previous marine tank water.
<<...?  No water tests?  Just how "new" is this tank I wonder...and if it may have something to do with the fish's behavior/getting "stuck"?>>
This morning I woke up and found him to be wedged in a rock in a very tight space, he was struggling so much to free himself, so I started to take the rocks off one by one, and finally freed him.
But now the puffers underside belly has torn it's skin, you can see its pink flesh but not bleeding and he was puking something out his mouth.  Don't know whether he ate his skin.  I've monitored the puffer for a while and seems to be fine and happily swimming around like nothings happened, he's not puking anymore, it took 10 minutes till he looked normal again.
<<These are quite hardy fish...will likely be fine>>
I've added some Vitazin and Stress Coat/Zyme supplements.
<<Ok>>
But I don't have a clue whether he'll survive or will it heal overtime, will it eat?
<<Sure...have you tried to feed it?>>
The length of time it will take to heal, and is there any medicine I could use, how about the juice of garlic cloves etc?
<<You could dose some iodine (per manufacturer's instructions>>
Thanks I really would appreciate your help and advice.
Adil
<<The puffer should recover fine...but you really do need to consider larger quarters.  Regards, EricR>>

Re: Injured Porcupine Puffer...Too Small Tank/Questionable System  - 09/14/06
Thanks for the Info,
<<Welcome>>
It's a new tank but the same RO used Water from my previous tank which had been running for a year, so I wasn't cycling the tank.
<<Mmm, sometimes can be done...but definitely requires close monitoring of water parameters/certainty the quantity of available microbes are sufficient to deal...>>
Anyway came home from work, only to find the poor thing lying dead underneath a rock.
<<(sigh)  Likely poisoned by this too new/improperly acclimated/cycled system>>
It's bad luck, I was gonna call it Gizmo. (So cute).
<<Not "bad luck" my friend...more likely your "bad decision" or lack of knowledge and proper preparation of a suitable system in which to place the puffer is what killed it>>
You are right, I'm not going to purchase another puffer unless I get bigger quarters.
<<Indeed...and properly cycled/know your water parameters this time>>
Thanks for your response, and your site is brilliant.
<<Please better use the information available.  EricR>>

Re: Injured Porcupine Puffer...Too Small Tank/Questionable System - 09/14/06
Hello again,
<<Evening>>
Understood from previous response.
<<Ah...good my friend>>
Ok my LFS guy, tells me I can have at least 10 fish in my 55 UK gallons, and probably 15 with a sump.
<<Let's see, that's about 66g US...could be done...would depend much on the species selected>>
He said 2 Clarki Clowns, Three Tangs (Hippo/Powder blue/Naso), 1 Pink Anthias,
<<This doesn't tell me anything>>
1 Fox Face, and few small fish like gobies.
<<Grossly over stocked...and "none" of these tangs are suitable for this size tank, even on their own>>
Personally I think this maybe too much.
<<Way too much>>
LFS says it should be ok, as long you put all three tangs together and to put other fish in first before you introduce the tangs.
<<The LFS is not taking the size of the environment in to account here (or the "delicate" nature of the Powder Blue Tang)...please do not do this>>
I know you're gonna lecture me that the tangs aren't even near suited for a 55 UK gallon tank so I ask what would you suggest?
<<I'm heartened by the fact that you realize this on your own (consider yourself lectured <grin>).  The clowns, Anthias (I recommend a lyretail, Pseudanthias squamipinnis), and the Foxface would all be fine additions (once your certain this tank is fully cycled, that is).  And a couple smaller fishes in the way of cardinals or gobies would be ok as well I think (Sphaeramia nematoptera and/or Elacatinus oceanops)>>
Thanks for your info.
<<Regards, EricR>>

New member to the aquarium. Porc. puffer  - 08/26/06
Hey crew,
  Well my dad and brother came home with a porcupine puffer Wednesday. I notice a small thing under his belly. I don't have a picture so I'm going to have to describe it as best as I can. The little bump thing on the puffer is pretty small but small enough to take off with a tweezers if it is a parasite. The color is pink and it's like a oval shape. The thing looks like a burger (from your nose...), remember I'm doing my best to describe it lol. It looks like it is attached to one of the quills on the puffer. Does this information I have given you work for you?
<Yes... But no useful data re water quality, the make-up of this system, other tankmates... This spot is likely an "owee"... not parasitic, not "treatable" per se>
I have look everywhere on your site and other places but can't get an answer. Could this be a parasite? Maybe a bruised quill? Also there are some white spots, like sugar sized, on his tail but only a couple. Looks like ich but he had it since Wednesday and there isn't anymore white spots on him. Maybe scars from ich?
  Thanks for your help.,
  Ben
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/burrfishdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: New member to the aquarium... more on Porc. puffer - 08/26/2006
Crew,
  My water quality is good. The puffer had this "thing" on him at the store I'm guessing. My water parameters are
  Nitrate-10
  Nitrite-0
  Ammonia-0
  pH-8.2
  Saltinity-1.025
  The other fish are a Goldentail moray, V. lionfish, and a Niger trigger.
<In how large a system?... Regardless, not compatible... see WWM re...>
They all get along fine. The puffer acts normal and shows no sign of stress. He swims up and down the glass and looks at the rocks, ect.
<No such word>
I'm giving him Vita-Chem every week. Thanks for you help.
  Ben
<Keep reading. BobF>

Porcupine Puffer fading fast ... killed through mis-over-stocking, trtmt.   8/24/06
I am afraid it may be too late... but I just came across your site and thought I would try once more.
<?>
I have a porcupine puffer in an 80 gal aquarium along with a powder blue tang, French angelfish, a lionfish and an eel.
<... eighty gallons? Way too small...>
When I first set up the tank... I noticed he swam constantly near the surface, but wouldn't eat a thing. I had a problem with nitrites for a week or so, but I removed the fish and fixed the problem.
I left the puffer out for a bit longer in my local stores tank (they were nice enough to hold him for me)....they said he ate a little when he came in...but then quickly quit again. He mostly lays around on the bottom of the tank and hides...
<...>
He is now back in my aquarium for the last few weeks, but then I developed an ich problem (I wouldn't be surprised if he brought it back with him) which I have been treating with Prevent-Ich. The Tang and the Angelfish were the worst affected, but the problem seems to be almost completely under control as the ich spots have all but disappeared. (Darn Prevent -Ich seems to have stained my coral though)...
Anyway...through all this, he still hasn't eaten that I have seen....and now he seems to "puff-up" involuntarily occasionally, which I know is not good for them...
HELP!
One last odd thing....i had my hand in the tank the other day cleaning something when he swam by me and pretty much swam into my hand.......I just held him lightly...open palm...basically letting him rest in my hand....but he didn't puff and made no effort to move....weird huh?
Anyway...thanks for any help you can give!
Tod
Phoenix, Arizona
<You... need... to... move... this livestock into much larger, more stable quarters. Bob Fenner>

White worm parasites. Porcupine Puffer dis... mostly   8/3/06
Dear Bob,
<Robert>
First of all, I wanted to thank you for your time in answering this and so many other questions and for having such a fine resource online for helping
out aquarists (especially new ones, such as myself). It seems that anytime I search the net for info on taking care of my puffers, I get this site - and
usually all of the answers I need.
<Ah, thank you for your kind words. Much appreciated>
I decided I needed to write in for this one, however, as I didn't find exactly what I was looking for in the previously answered emails.
<Okay>
My wife and I recently started a 55 gallon marine tank and have two Mollies (suggested by the pet shop for starting the cycle) and two Porcupine Puffers...
<! Will be way too much here... even for initially "loading" this system/volume... and these species are by and large non- to anti-social with their own kind>
One because my wife had fallen instantly in love with it (the particular fish, not just puffers in general) and the other because she was afraid it would be lonely by itself.
<Not so. Please relate this to her. Not found in the wild in close association, "pairs" except during spawning...>
This turned out to be not such a good idea, as the two puffers decided that the tank wasn't big enough for the both of them.
<Oh, yes>
The smaller (and cuter) Puffer (named "Fluff") is less territorial and less aggressive and seems more interested with swimming the length of the tank. The larger Puffer (named "Nutter") isn't as active and seems to get aggressive when Fluff intrudes upon his area.
<...>
We've remedied this for the time being by placing a divider in the tank. (I can almost hear your comment here about how they need more room -
<Heeeee! Am I really becoming that/this predictable? Good>
I agree) At least they have more room than they did in the pet store, if that's any consolation.
<Mmm, not much. Do understand that pet stores are an aberration... that they only intend to stock life short term... that of a necessity they can't afford to not temporarily overcrowd their for sale charges>
Our plans are to buy a second tank (probably another 55 gallon - at least for now) and put a Puffer in each.
<Do see WWM, fishbase.org... elsewhere re the size of this species... Need much larger quarters, volume... not "when" larger, but now>
We hope to do a much larger tank that's architecturally integrated into the wall, but we are still reeling from the money we've spent so far.
<Planning... based on investigation, facts my friend...>
The reason for this letter, however, is what I am assuming is a parasitic infestation.
<"It?">
The appearance is of small worms that are exactly the same size as their spines, but instead of laying back against their bodies, they are
sort of limp and upon closer inspection, appear to be attached to the puffers skin. It's hard to say exactly how long ago this began, as Fluff had
what we thought was a 'dead' spine. We had thought that this was a result of Nutter attacking Fluff, but now that Fluff has healed up from the attack and
they are separated, we've noticed several of these worms on both Fluff and Nutter. I was considering either a Freshwater dip or Formalin, but the idea
of Formaldehyde worries me.
<It should... toxic... to the fish and you>
I was wondering if I could solve this problem and prevent against Marine Ich by simply reducing the salinity of the tank.
<Mmm, not likely>
If so, what range is good for killing off parasites and not too low for puffers? (I'm not worried about the mollies, as they're freshwater fish.)
Would it be better (less shock to the puffers) to reduce the salinity to kill the worms rather than do the Fresh Water bath?
<You can read re the use, efficacy of so-called Hyposalinity Treatments here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/martrthyposalfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. I am decidedly not a fan of this technique... Not often useful, conclusive... too much stress on the hosts...>
Thanks in advance for your rapid reply and as always for your helpful info.
Robert Perkins
<Let's see... the "worms" may well be a fluke (Flatworm) of some sort... and could well be a type of crustacean (likely a parasitic copepod of some sort)... These possibilities could be treated with a biocidal dip of formalin/formaldehyde (detailed on WWM), but require the animals to NOT be placed back in the infested system/s (obviously eh?). Instead, I'd try administering (either together or serially) a vermifuge like Praziquantel or economic poison/DTHP (in various generic nominations... see WWM re), or a combo. of both as in a product like "Fluke Tabs"... Much to relate re this... and I do wish we were near by where I could take a scraping, look under my cheapie microscopes, show you which is which here... But do read on re the above... and write back for clarification, more if all does not become clear in your searching. Bob Fenner>

Inflated Porcupine puffer   7/25/06
I read the article and my puffer doesn’t have any air trapped.  He is on the bottom of the tank partially inflated with water.  He doesn’t have air trapped in him, because I burped him several times, if he does its very, very minimal.  The problem is, he seems he can’t expel the remaining water.  He can inflate fully and can expel the water down to about half his size, but no further. Any other ideas?
<<Puffers are built to inflate, and expel water with water with ease.  Does a little bit of air come out when you burp him?>> <Mmm, just give it time... RMF>
Thanks
John

Puffer With A Protrusion - 07/18/2006
Help!  I've looked for information via the search engine and posted a question in the public forum prior to emailing.  I have a spiny box puffer with a protrusion coming from the rectal area.  I've had the puffer for approximately a year, during which time he's been very healthy and active.  He's approximately 6" long and is housed in a 46 gallon tank with a pacific blue tang, a sail-fin tang, and a clarkii clown.  
<Too much life for this small system....  the tangs need a great deal more space.>
The protrusion swollen and puffy, pinkish in color, and is about the size of a pea.  He's still mobile and active, although he didn't eat last night which is very uncommon.  That was when I noticed the growth. Any suggestions as to what this may be and what treatment is needed?
<There's just not enough information to go off, here.  Water parameters of course are key - without this and a great deal more insight on the system, we really can't offer any ideas.  Please get reading, starting here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pufferdisfaqs.htm and the links, in blue, at the top of that page.>
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.   Thanks!  Vann  
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Porcupine puffer and burping   7/11/06
Please, Please, Please help!  I have been searching on your site on how to burp a puffer.  Mine has an air pocket in the left back area.  When I put on my marine gloves and grab him to try to burp him he immediately puffs up.  Impossible for me to burp him when he is a huge spiney ball, there is no give.  Any suggestions....please, I am very concerned.  Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
<<Please don’t stress too much!  Here you go: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/airpuff.html.  Hope that helps. Lisa.>>
  Sincerely
       Naomi Patton

Eye Ulcer/Cloudy - Porc Puffer  - 06/07/06
I have a small Porc puffer which I purchased about 2 weeks ago.  She is in a QT tank.....and I have been treating her for her eye with lowering the salinity and making sure the water quality is tops.  The eye seems to be even more cloudy and even looks somewhat like an ulcer.  I don't know if the eye is getting better as in the issue is shrinking or worse! I have also used Epsom salts as well.
<Good>
But if I am taking water out for changes, how often do I need to replenish the Epsom salts.
<Each time>
She is eating well ... mind you today was a bit picky.  When I got home from work she was on the bottom in a rock hole and I thought she'd died!
<Mmm, do sit about a good deal of the time... in the wild and in captivity>
I picked her out of the store because she was the "underdog" and I seem to always take the fish I feel I could help give a better life to.  This includes all my pets... Should I dip her in fresh water.
<Maybe enroute to your main tank>
I could send a pic if necessary.  Please help I really don't want to lose her and I don't want her to suffer.
Janet
<I would likely foreshorten the quarantine period here and risk moving this animal into larger quarters... Much more likely that a good deal of the stress/component of this manifestation is due to being kept in small confines than it carrying a pathogen. Bob Fenner>

-The one eyed Porc-   6/1/06
<Hello Janet>
I have had a juvenile porcupine puffer for about a week.  She is in a quarantine tank with no other fish and has been since bringing her home.  I had noticed one eye is cloudy and has steadily gotten worse over the past week.
<Are you keeping up with water changes and maintaining a clean tank?>
She looks blind!  Will this clear up?  She seemingly had white spots as well, but they have cleared up and are looking better.  She is eating
very well.... so far.
<Good sign on the food, continue to feed nutritious foods and keep that water quality up.>  The quarantine tank is small, so I am cleaning out any uneaten food every time I feed.  I decided to use copper, but was advised by LFS that puffers don't take well to copper.
<Yes puffers and copper are never a good mix.>
Stopped this and haven't really done anything except brought down the salinity...slowly and am still doing so.  From 1.025 to 1.18 or lower?  Should I treat her with anything else?  Or simply leave her in the quarantine tank until she is completely healthy.
Janet
<Continue to lower the salinity down to 1.012 and keep there for several weeks, continue water changes as above, and add Epsom salt at 1tsp per gallon of water for the eye.  Most of the time a cloudy eye signifies dirty water issues, and porcs are able to ruin a fish tank fairly quickly, a very high bioload animal.  On the flip side, puffers in clean water are very hardy, and generally bounce back from most illnesses / conditions.  I would NOT move the puffer from Q/T until it is fully healed.>
<Justin (Jager)>

Spiny Box Puffer with Ich - 5/17/2006
What is the best way to treat a Spiny Box Puffer that has ich?  It is currently in a quarantine tank.
<<Read here: http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9. >>
Thanks!
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Re: Spiny Box Puffer with Ich - 5/28/2006
I started the treatment described in the link you gave me for Hyposalinity last week.  For the first few days the ich started to clear up nicely, but over the last two days it has gotten progressively worse.  It is now much worse than it was before I started the Hyposalinity treatment.
<<What SG is the puffer in now?>>
The Spiny Box Puffer will no longer accept food.  Is there something else I can do?
<<He is very, very stressed.  It sounds to me like something is off in your water parameters.  Are you keeping a close eye on water quality?  Please search WWM re hyposalinity.>>
Thanks!
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Diodon nicthemerus with an air bubble - 5/8/2006
Hi guys, good morning from the U.K.
<<Good morning from Canada!>>
After doing some searching, I still seem to have a couple of things that need my attention A.S.A.P.
On Saturday I purchased a young puffer, about 4" long from a local LFS.  Before I could stop the genius bagging the fish for me, he lifted it out of the water in the net, 5 seconds to get the top of the bag open, and then dropped it in. It was obviously stressed and puffed up; on going into the bag it expelled a large amount of air.
<<That’s no good.>>
After introducing the poor creature to my tank, I noticed an air bubble, about 1/4" diameter, at the joint of his body and tail fin. I posted in the forum to try and find out whether there was anything I could do, or whether just to watch and wait, but received no replies. Don't shoot me, but my first thought was to puncture the bubble to release the air if it was causing distress.
<<Bad idea!  Please read here on expelling the air bubble: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/airpuff.html. >>
When introduced, the fish was almost looking as if it was bleached it was so pale, but has since regained some color. At this time, it is staying in the corner during lighting times, and cruising after lights out, I have tried to feed with shrimp etc, but he seems to have no interest. Flake seemed to inspire him a little, but I realize this is not going to do anything to improve him, I'm guessing that that was all he was fed in the store.
<<Likely.  Read here on feeding: http://www.thepufferforum.com/articles/puffer/food.html.>>
Your thoughts would be hugely appreciated, the feeding is not bothering me to much at the moment, he is just settling in, so that I will just keep an eye on, my main worry is the air bubble.
<<Read linked articles.  If this is indeed a Diodon nicthemerus you have, be aware that they grow to 24 inches in length, and will require a system in the hundreds of gallons.>>
Thank you all in advance, Mike
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Porc V. Powerhead - 05/05/2006
Hi
<Hello>
Last night we brought a porcupine puffer, he settled in well; just as we were about to go to bed he swan near a power head and got stuck.
<Ouch>
There now is a see through bubble coming out underneath him he is laying on the bottom of the tank now and is not moving.  Is he going to be ok? If his he dying, don't want to lose him. Yours sincerely, miss Kate Lamb
<Well, I don't understand the end of your email, but i do believe that your puffer has a big bruise from being sucked into the powerhead.  Feed him well, and keep the tank clean.  All you can do at this point for him is keep his life stress free.  If the area wont heal in a week use an antibiotic like Nitrofurazone and Furazolidone to help.>
<Justin (Jager)>

Puffer using one gill  - 04/15/06
Hello WWM,
<Irene>
I have read on your web site that sometimes when a fish is using one gill, that this is normal behavior;  it will go away in time.  I have also read that
this could be a sign of gill flukes.  This is my situation:
<Yes, it can be either or....>
I have an 80 gallon tank.  Ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 0, pH is 8.3, temp is 78 and Nitrate is 10.  I have a 4" Porcupine Puffer, a 12" Snowflake Eel and a 4"
Sailfin Tang.  I purposely keep the stock low to maximize growing space for each fish and I know in time the puffer will need a larger tank of her own.
<This is probably too much now, I would begin the 125 or larger tank search and saving now.>
For the past day, my porcupine puffer breathes with one gill about 95% of the time.  She uses the left gill only rarely.  She does not breath heavily and
there is no sign of scratching.  She swims mainly within the bottom third of the tank and seems active enough, especially in the morning and at night.
<Eating fine and no other issues?>
Please tell me that my fish is just exhibiting normal behavior.  Is this one gill thing common among puffers?  I plan to watch her carefully for any
improvements and hope that she is just doing something funny but normal.
<Not normal, but does happen sometimes.  may be a sign of aggression on the tangs part and or stress related.  Keep watching the puffer to see if it improves or degrades.>
Thanks,
Irene
<Justin (Jager)>

Re: puffer using one gill   4/18/06
My porcupine puffer is breathing with both gills now.  I do believe it was stress related.  I recently moved him from one tank to another.  
<Great to hear!>
The Sailfin Tang is not bothering the puffer.  However, the Tang does have a history of aggression with a Regal Blue Tang.  Both Tangs live in separate
aquaria now.  (I have two 80 gallon tanks).  
<Sounds like a good deal>
I have a question about Miracle Mud.  I have seen it used in refugiums.
<Yes, an alternative to just DSB refugiums.>
My question is can a small bowl of the mud (kept separately in the bowl) be placed in a corner of the main aquarium for nutrient and water conditioning?  Or
would the mud spread all over the tank?  
<Depends on water flow through the area where you'd be placing it.  I'm really not sure you'll get the results you're looking for with this though.  There wouldn't be too much water flow through the mud, which is how it counts, so I believe it would just be a waste of time/money.  Have a good one, Jen S.>
Irene

Small white/yellowish spots on Burr Box fish... a mess of mis-mixed livestock, pouring medicines in main displays, not knowing what you're doing. Read!
Hello, I went though the web page and searched for some help regarding my striped burr fish ( spiny box fish). Throughout the past few weeks he has signs of small white-yellowish sand like dots randomly covering his entire body including his fins, I'm very concerned, he was eating like crazy and now is not eating. He swims though out the tank as though he is suffering terribly, shaking and itching himself among the rocks, and resting often.
<Something is amiss with your system, water quality here>
I've dosed him in several FW baths,
<Won't help if this animal is returned to the same system>
some seemed to help, but then they come right back. Yesterday, I tired giving him a FW bath and he blew up before reaching the water causing him to get stuck in the net, after deflating and questioning if i should try this again.
<You shouldn't>
Now it appears his underbelly is caved in nearly an inch. Our water quality is good and we are frequent water changers, our tank has a strong Rio power head, wet/dry filter and recently set up our protein skimmer. Our Clown trigger is now beginning to show sign and is itching
<Not a good mix...>
its self along the rocks and bottom. Both of this fish are also spending quiet a bit of time near our filters in take box looking as though they are gasping for air and breathing heavily. In our fifty gallon tank we also have a small angler fish, snake eel,
<... not good to mix...>
damsels, long nosed file fish,
<What species?>
(we have managed to keep alive!) and crabs. The water is currently being treated with rid-ich
<... a very poor idea...>
as so for the past week and a half, with no evidence of it working. Is there anything else that may be better to cure my fish before matters get even worse, even if it means getting rid of our crabs and killing live rock?
<... You're joking?>
I know copper isn't completely safe for puffer fish but I am desperate, our puffer fish went from eating out of our hand to looking miserable and not eating. Please help us, Thank you Sarah Delmotte
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Bob Fenner>

-Locked out-  - 04/10/2006
Hello WWM,
<Steve>
  I've a porcupine fish that is showing signs of lockjaw, and I'd like to start treating with iodine.  Is there any brand treatment you'd recommend?  The LFS carries Lugol's Solution, but I wasn't sure if that would work.
<Should be ok, but any pure iodine solution is fine.  Also mixed iodine and reef supplements are good to dose the tank with to maintain iodine levels constantly to avoid future issues.  Kent's essential elements is a good one.>
Thanks,
Steve
<Justin (Jager)>

Webb burr puffer... beh., dis.    3/27/06
Hi,
     If you are able to answer any questions or help us with our dilemma we really appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
     We have a Webb Burr Puffer that we have had for about 4 weeks now.  He has been incredibly healthy and active up until recently. He has started to act very tired and spend more and more time at the bottom of the tank ~ not like he was usually.
<Not unusual for puffers of all sorts to go through this sort of "phase" on arrival...>
  He, before, the last couple of days was always very active, eating well and towards the top of the tank.  Now he doesn't really seem to want to eat, though he does come to the top once he knows it is feeding time, but eats very little.
     We also have a yellow tang, a couple little damsels and a Achilles Surgeonfish ~ which was just added a couple of days ago.  We have a 46 gallon tank.  The puffer is a juvenile and about 2 inches long.
<Quite small>   
  We were told by our pet store to add Life Bearer/parasite treatment to our tank to try and cure him.  We also have copper levels of approx .10 in our tank.
   <Uhh, no... these compounds are toxic... adding to the puffer's troubles, not alleviating them>
  I also am a little concerned about a couple of newer white/clear spikes he has on his back.
     Can you please tell us what we should be doing and what we can do to try and help him?  Thank you.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/pufferdisfaqs.htm
and the many linked files above... And cease the "medicating". Bob Fenner>

Re: Webb burr puffer... still not reading...    3/27/06
Thank you so much for your quick response.  He looks even worse today.  Looks like he has some sort of blister on his chin and one of the white/clear spikes looks as if the casing around it is coming up and around it.     
  So ~ I should cease the parasite med AND the copper?  
   <Please see prev. corr....>
  We were told by the pet shop to keep the copper level up around .10 to help with ick on the other fish.  
   <No... this amount of free cupric ion is not of sufficient strength to be therapeutic... See WWM re...>
  What levels should we have any type of meds, if at all?
   <.........................>
  What else can we do to try and help him?
     Thank you,
  Bridgette and Mike
<............ Read where you've been referred. Bob Fenner>

Porcupine Puffer Trouble - 2/20/2006
Greetings.
<<Hi Dan.>>
I have a 6-year-old porcupine puffer who is about 10 inches head-to-tail and lives in a 55 gallon tank.
<<That’s too bad.  At 6-years-old your puffer should be 18”, and in a 125 gallon tank.>> As of the last few months, his desire and ability to eat has diminished greatly.  Over the years, I've fed him a steady diet of frozen krill and frozen silversides, with an occasional helping of romaine lettuce, which he used to love.
<<Good as a treat perhaps, but poor nutritionally.>>
He no longer touches frozen krill, and only on "good" days will swallow a piece frozen silverside.  Mostly, he now eats floating dried krill, but still with difficulty. Part of the problem, I think, is that he can't close his jaw. It's always open. When he sucks in a piece, he'll usually spit it back out and try again until he finally holds it down.  Based on what I've read on your site so far, it sounds like he either has nutritionally induced lockjaw or overgrown teeth, but I can't really tell.
<<Can you see his teeth/beak all the time? I find your pics hard to make out.  Is he getting food down?  You should try mussels, Clams, cockles, crabs legs.  If he is eating at all, you have a chance to reverse any damage a poor diet may have caused. Soak the foods in garlic to stimulate his appetite, and a good supplement like Selcon, Vita-chem, or both.  What’s your water quality like? Number readings would be very helpful here.>>
Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated!
<<As above.  Most of all your puffer needs a bigger tank.  Please get back to me! Lisa.>>
Regards,
Dan

Porcupine Puffer Trouble II- 3/1/2006
Thank you very much for your reply.
<<You're welcome.>>
I've been traveling, so I couldn't respond sooner.
<<That's ok, hope you enjoyed your time.>>
I ordered the supplements that you suggested. The tank size is another issue. I'm torn over whether I should invest in more equipment or find someone to adopt him. Can you offer some advice on finding a good adopter?
<<Your best bet would be to go to www.thepufferforum.com.  It's the best puffer site out there, and you can post your puffer available there.>>
I should also mention that he's been blind in one eye for the last five years. (... a bad encounter a with a former yellow tang tank mate).
<<You may have trouble adopting out a severely stunted, half-blind puffer, but it is certainly worth a shot, if you are not able/willing to house his properly.>>
He is eating, but not as much as before. Freeze-dried krill is the only thing he can consistently hold down. He goes in and out of phases. Sometimes he'll show his voracious appetite and get very excited when I'm near, and other times, he just ignores me.
<<HA! Maybe he's just moody :)>>
Yesterday, he was very excited about feeding, but when it came time to swallow the silverside, he tried a couple of times and then gave up and lost interest.
I can see his teeth/beak all the time. I can snap some more pictures if you can suggest a good angle, but it's very hard getting him to pose and remain still.
<<There is a great puffer-dentistry article at thepufferforum as well.>>
Water quality is probably not so great, although the ammonia readings have always been at zero. What else should I be looking for?
<<NitrItes, nitrAtes, pH, to name a few.>>
Is skimming important?
<<Yes>>
I had a cyclone skimmer running for a long time, but it never seemed to collect much.
<<Likely not powerful enough.>>
Right now, I just have a powerhead running during the day to provide additional aeration. For filtration, I use a BioWheel.
Your advice is greatly appreciated!
<<As is your desire to learn.  Take care.>>
Thanks,
Dan
<<You're welcome.  Lisa>>

Porcupine Puffer   1/31/06
Please help me - I have had my porcupine puffer for about 11 years. He stopped eating about a week ago and is just lying at the bottom of the tank hardly moving.
<A heart break>
He seems to only move once or twice a day purely to turn around but still remaining in one corner at the bottom of the tank. He went blind about two years ago (not because of poor water condition) so we hand feed him with a tong. He usually eats whole mussels and cockles. We have put food into his mouth but he just spits it out again. I can see him getting thinner and feel so helpless. The water levels are fine and our other two fish (Regal and Powder Blue Tang) are fine. We examined his teeth as he lets you hold him in the water and they seems fine. He has no other visible signs of disease or injury. Any help would be very much appreciated.    
  We buy our water already salted from our local marine shop. We run two tanks the other being a reef system. The fish in that are fine and water levels are also good so I don't think it can be anything to do with that. Although we did do a 20% water change when he started to not eat as a precaution but had no effect.   
  Also all three fish get on very well and we never see any signs of bullying or distress in any of the fish.   
  Many thanks   
  Marie
<Do please see WWM re force-feeding these fishes. My Google search: http://www.google.com/custom?q=force+feeding+puffers&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com
This is what I would (plan to) do here. Good luck, life to you. Bob Fenner>

-Possible Isopod issues-    1/19/06
Hello all!
<Hello, Justin with you this evening.>
First of all, THANK YOU so very much for your amazing site!  It is such a wealth of fantastic information,
and is truly (in my humble opinion) the best wet-pet resource on the web!
<Well it's all due to many people who help, and the crew here. Ill pass your thanks on to Bob.>
I currently maintain a 120G fish-only tank.  In addition to the 3" puffer (Diodon holocanthus), there is also a 4" angel (Pomacanthus imperator), 4" lion
(Pterois volitans) and a couple of small (1-1.5") damsels.  Salinity - 1.021, Temp - 80*F, Ammonia - 0,
Nitrites - 0; Nitrates - 5ppm.
<An interesting mix, have you seen any aggression out of the Lionfish?  most of the time puffers, and lions may squabble, much to the lions detriment.>
A couple of days ago, I noticed a small white spot medial to my puffer's left eye.  The spot does not
look like Oodinium or ick, but is rather large (2-3mm) and flat.  This morning, I noticed two more ventral
spots... also 2-3mm each, flat, and completely circular!  They do not look like any sort of parasite
that I know of, and it seems very strange to acquire trauma with those manifestations.  Also, the spots are
bright solid white, and almost appear "indented" into the skin.  What on earth could this be?  
<The indented part seems very odd, as most parasites are bulges outward or bumps. It may be an isopod of some sort that has decided to attach on. they can be fairly easily treated in hypo salinity dips or by using a ain't parasite medicine in a hospital tank for a few days.  However, From what you are saying it is hard to give you a definite answer on it.  Can you maybe send in a good photo of the area in question.  It would be much more helpful in identifying the culprit if one exists.  Also herding the puffer into a container and gently rubbing the area to see if it comes off or is an actual indentation may save you further headache here.  My puffer enjoys digging up substrate (I have sand) and little pieces get stuck in the spines and look very odd and area  a similar size to what you are saying.  Also mine enjoys playing in the sump return pipe and getting micro bubbles all over him as well.  It could be a benign item like that.>
His attitude is perky as always, and he is eating great!  I am at a loss on this one... any ideas?
<You have me a bit stumped as well on this, but Id check the basics first, and a gentle rubbing of your finger on the area may reveal a simple answer to your concern.  Try watching it for now and see if any more appear or if they disappear all together. I will forward this to Bob for some further ideas.  If you can grab a photograph of the area and send it in as I said above, it may be much more telling.> <<Mmm, nothing further. RMF>>
Thanks in advance for everything!
Christine
<Thank you for being clear, and including everything tank wise I needed to know to focus on the issue.  Hope we can figure this out.>
<Justin (Jager)>

Spiny Box with Ich... stressed by crowding, over-medicated...   1/17/06
Hi, I have been doing tons of reading on your site about puffer care. Your site is by far the best out there, thank you for maintaining such a place!
<Welcome>
I recently purchased a spiny box (about 3 inches long) for my fish only tank (46 gal right now, will be going to 125 as soon as I move in may,
nitrite/ammonia 0 ppm, nitrate 20ppm).
<Too small... I would have waited...>
Acclimated him to my tank and he was harassed by my other fishes and came down with Ich, and refuses to eat.
After about 24 hours in the main tank, I gave him a 15 min freshwater dip (adjusted temp and pH properly).
<For? The system has the ich...>
Moved him into a quarantine tank and treated with copper based ich treatment as well as with Melafix to help his tattered up back fin.
<Copper is very hard on puffers/burrfishes...>
Tried feeding some internal parasite medication
<...?>
Treated all of his (or her) food with garlic extract, as well as added some garlic extract to the water Tried feeding a variety of delicious foods to entice him, such as live
blackworms, live clam, uncooked  shrimp, frozen  bloodworms, krill, clam, sleeper goby, beef heart, and a few others. He won't take anything.
I have also tried force-feeding him using a small plastic syringe just thick enough to suck in some mashed up pieces of food. When I try to force feed
him, he just puffs up, sucking in the food from the syringe, and when he deflates he blows the food right back out. Am I doing this correctly?
<Too much, too soon... the force-feeding I would do, not all these "treatments"... akin to punching one in the stomach then trying to feed a hamburger...>
He would not eat from day one, and it is now about day 11 and I still have
yet to see him eat anything. Additionally, the ich spots all fell off for a few days, and then came right back.
<Ah, yes>
Is there anything else I can do to help this lil guy out? I'm very nervous now that it has been so long and nothing
seems to be helping. Should I try hyposalinity? If I do, do I acclimate him slowly to the low salt water, or do it more like a fresh water dip and just toss him in?
Thank you so much for your help,
Dave
<Dave... stop. Please read... through all the Puffer articles and FAQs files posted on WWM... following (if of interest, use) the links to other areas... Blitzkrieg approaches w/o sufficient knowledge will not serve you here. Take good notes. Bob Fenner>

Porc Puffer not eating, lack of info...  1/13/06
We need your help. <<I will try>>  My son has a saltwater fish tank in his house <<What size?>>...has had it for several years...all fish are healthy.<<A list of inhabitants would be helpful>>   Except--his porcupine puffer fish has suddenly stopped eating.   It comes to the top of the tank, all excited, wanting to eat and then just seems to "jab" at the food.   It has always had a good appetite.    He has been eating krill.   It's so heartbreaking.    At times it seems to head to the bottom corner of the tank and gasp a little.     Anything we can do? <<What are the readings for Ammonia, nitrItes, nitrAtes and pH in this tank? Your son's puffer, Diodon Holocanthus, can grow to 19" and will need a tank of at least 125 gallons at maturity.  Does he show signs of trying to open his mouth and is not able to?  An all krill diet has been linked to 'lock jaw'.  Essentially, your puffer needs a more varied diet, and probably larger quarters.  Often, an iodine supplement will ease the lock jaw enough to facilitate better feeding.  Please do get back to us regarding the questions above. Lisa>>
Thank you!

Re: Porcupine puffer  - 01/12/2006
Will drive in to town, to pick up the Selcane <Selcon> today, is the iodine
included in it? <No, it is strictly a vitamin supplement rich in HUFAs.>We have been soaking the frozen brine, chopped up
silversides and krill in the garlic extreme, so am I to mix the Selcane <Selcon> and
Iodine in the soaking solution. <I would alternate between the garlic and Selcon.>  Yes the Nitrate is/was off the charts with
the 5 gallon water change every three days it has been "coming back" I (the
local fish store said the nitrates wouldn't hurt any of the fish). <Indirectly  they can with high levels.  The nitrate will end up as dissolved organics which in turn creates an acidic condition which lowers ph levels.  With high nitrate levels I suggest you test the dKH often. Sea Chem's Reef Builder is a good product to use.> I will
write down exact ranges on all the tests today and get back to you.  It was great to see that lots of people with puffers feel the same as I do, they
are wonderful pets. <And a very intelligent fish to boot.> Thank you for your service. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Marcia

Porcupine puffer disease diagnosis... unsuitable water quality, copper exposure,  - 01/12/2006
Hello,
Your web site seems quite helpful in disease diagnosis, so I hope you can help.  I have a 100 gal. saltwater tank that I have had for about 8 months and have had the porcupine puffer for about 7 or so.  The problem is that he has not eaten anything in the last 2 weeks, he is still very active and always greets me with excitement.
<... have you read on WWM re feeding puffers, diodontids?>
The water quality is good salt 1.022
<I would raise this to near seawater strength... 1.025>
ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates less than forty
<Keep under twenty...>
as far as can tell.  I do use copper in the recommended dosage
<Stop! This is toxic to your livestock... should not be used on a continuous basis... some folks think never on puffers... can/will account for the non-feeding by itself>
and have so since I have had the tank.
<This is a mistake>
He shows no external signs of disease, he acts hungry  when I bring his feeding cup around but when i put the shrimp in he goes for it once or twice then just lets it fall to the bottom.  Before I could barely feed my bottom feeder because he would eat everything I put it.  I know I need to vary his diet other than shrimp but as of now he does not want to eat, food suggestions would be helpful.  The damsel, sailfin, and snowflake eel are all happy/healthy fish. I don't know what to do he does not match any disease charts he just wont eat.   Thanks
<... not a disease, unless you consider iatrogenic/induced, poor supplied circumstances as cause... Read on my friend. Your answers are on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Re: Selcon and Plankton    1/19/06
James, the Selcon has finally arrived. <Finally> I soaked some frozen brine shrimp in
it last night and the Puffer ( BUBBA) ate maybe 3 tiny brines, the tank
clouded for a while, <All that is needed is about four drops on the frozen brine, should not cloud water enough to matter.> and I am assuming he is getting the benefit of the
vitamins by just being in the water, (does he drink the water)<Not nearly as well as ingesting it.  They don't drink water as such.>  We also
bought some refrigerated marine plankton (sp?) and have been putting a
dropper full a day in the tank he seems to somedays want to swim into it so
I think he is getting some nutrition from it.  This morning I soaked the
plankton in the Selcon and dumped it in.  Is this giving him some benefit? <If he is eating it.>
Should I be also medicating him with Iodine? If yes, how much, how often. <Just do the dosage rate on the bottle, no need to medicate him directly and by all means don't.>
Also, he has not eaten any of the ghost shrimp as far as I can tell. We are still doing 10 gallon water change every 3-4 days, tank seems
healthier .thank you again. <You're welcome and I hope your puffer pulls through.  James (Salty Dog)>

Puffer Sick... more mis-matched titles...    1/19/06
James, Could you guesstimate how long it might take for the vitamins
(Selcon) to help him?  <Geez, that would be like you asking me how long your cold will last.  Without him eating the chances for recovery aren't going to be good.> A week, 2 weeks, a month? In general he seems to feel better but is still not eating.. He doesn't seem to 'flip-out' as much these
last few days when everyone else is eating. <Hope for the best.  James (Salty Dog)>