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FAQs About Turtle Systems: Lighting, UV
Related Articles: Turtles,
Amphibians, Red
Eared Slider Care, The
Care and Keeping of the Red Eared Slider,
Trachemys scripta elegans by
Darrel Barton,
Related FAQs: Turtle Systems
1, Turtle Systems
2, & Further Subdivided FAQs on Turtle Systems:
Turtle Enclosures,
Turtle System Filtration,
Turtle System Heating,
Turtle Substrates & Decor,
Aquatic Turtle Basking Areas,
Turtle System Maintenance,
Overwintering Environments, RES Systems,
& Turtles 1,
Turtles 2,
Red Ear Sliders,
Turtle Identification,
Turtle Behavior,
Turtle Compatibility,
Turtle Selection,
Turtle Feeding,
Turtle Disease,
Turtle Reproduction,
& by Species: Cooters/Mud Turtles,
Softshells, Snapping Turtles,
Mata Matas, Tortoises,
&
Amphibians, Other
Reptiles,
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Is the UV-B bulb a substitute for sunlight? Turtle Sys.,
lambda... to do: split up/sub-FAQs: tank, filtration, maint...
10/10/09
<Yes. Turtles (and many other day-active reptiles) need UV-B light to
synthesis Vitamin D. While it is *technically possible* to administer
Vitamin D, e.g., via food or injections, this is something only done
under lab conditions. The average person cannot judge the amount of
Vitamin D needed, and if you provide too much or too little, the turtle
will get sick, for example, Metabolic Bone Disease. By providing a UV-B
light, the turtle will choose when to bask, and it will manufacturer all
the Vitamin D it needs.>
What if I let my turtle bask only in sunlight and never under the bulb?
<If your turtle is *outdoors* for something like six hours per day,
every day, then it will not need a UV-B basking lamp. It will get enough
UV-B from the sunshine. Obviously, this isn't viable if you live
somewhere in the temperate zone (e.g., the US or Europe) because except
for the summer, it will be far too cold for your turtle to be put
outside. Because glass stops UV-B, putting the vivarium next to a window
is hopeless, and will NOT be a suitable alternative. If your turtle
lives indoors, then it MUST have a source of UV-B. This will be
explained in any book on reptiles, and is extremely well supported by
hobbyist experience as well as science. There's a nice site at the link
below all about UV-B and why reptiles need it:
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm
Because UV-B is comparatively inexpensive to provide, it shouldn't
really be a discussion point. A combination metal halide UV-B/heat lamp
is one convenient option. See for example the discussion here:
http://redearslider.com/light_sources.html
If you can't afford the cost of a UV-B lamp, then you probably can't
afford to keep a pet reptile anyway. Similarly, if adding a UV-B lamp
sounds like a lot of effort, then keeping a reptile will be too much
effort as well.>
My turtle species is Kachuga smithii.
<Cheers, Neale.>
UVB light 07/23/09
Hi crew! It's me again, Felix from Malaysia XD
<Hiya Felix, Darrel here is Los Angeles!>
I have 3 Red Ear Sliders, I got everything except UVB light, it's super
hard to get it here, just wanna ask, those full spectrum fluorescent
light for fish tank, do they give UVB? I saw a lot, like those that kill
germ, those for aquarium plants... I plan to keep them outside under the
sun, but they're still small, their shell less than 2.5 inches long...
Any better idea
<Natural sunlight is by far the very best and only UV the turtles need,
Felix. That is IF they can get it directly -- it can't be filtered
through glass of any kind and even screen the size of window screen or
mosquito netting. Also, if they are outside, make sure that they have
shade where they can get away from the sun -- and lastly, that there is
enough water that the sunshine doesn't make the water too hot. Remember,
a small tub of water left in the summer sun will easily reach 120
degrees and that can kill your little friends.>
<Inside the house, they really should have a dedicated UV bulb, but on
the other hand I have used full spectrum bulbs myself for many years.
The Vita Lite by Duro is a full spectrum bulb that I used for many years
and should
be easy to get since they have many uses. Just remember that the
effective range of the UV declines significantly beyond 8 to 10 inches
and place the bulb accordingly>
Yellow Bellied Slider, sys, fdg.
10/6/08
Hi Crew,
<Hiya Cherie, Darrel here this afternoon>
I have a young (5 months) yellow bellied slider that I house indoors, in a 15
gal. tank. Recently he has been acting very restless. He has always been an
active little guy, he loves to climb anything as high as he can, and because of
this I made him a long ladder/hill with a basking site on top, so that he can
see out the window that his tank sits next too. I have been searching online for
possible reasons for his sudden restless behavior (scratching at the tank,
pacing back and forth), and have found that if turtles are not getting enough UV
light, they sometimes try to go looking for it. I don't have a lot of money,
(although I am willing to spend whatever I can to make sure my turtle is
healthy), and when I was buying supplies for him I was told by the pet store
owner that a plant light from home depot would provide the right amount of UV
light, and is a lot cheaper than the expensive lights sold at places like Petco.
So, I bought the plant light, and have been using it for 3 months, do turtles
require more intense UV light as they are growing?
<Not higher intensity as they grow. Remember UV A & B comes naturally from the
sun and (hopefully) the sun doesn't get more intense as they grow. What's
important is that they need the right kind of UV and most Plant-Gro bulbs don't
have the right spectrum. While I appreciate the Pet Store guy's logic .. and yes
I'm going to say this -- It's better than NO UV light, it's not optimum for him
and I urge you to save up if you have to and buy a more specific light for him.
Normally I don't endorse products by brand in this column because there are many
good products out there, Google is your friend, and I want people to do their
research and learn. That said I'll tell you that back when I started, I used
Vita-Lite by Duro Test because they were the only UV Bulb supplier that actually
published their scientific research rather than just "trust me it's a reptile
bulb." I did a quick search online and found an 18" Vita-lite fluorescent for
around $15 that fit's in a $9 fixture from Home Depot or Lowes.>
I have been feeding him Gammarus (aquatic shrimp), along with water plants, and
lettuce, and he has been eating more, but I assume that is because he is
growing. I try feeding him when he is restless, but it only calms him down about
1/2 the time. I also tried giving him toys, but he doesn't show much interest in
them. Is he sick, bored, or other? Does a plant light really supply enough UVB
light?
<If he's eating and active ... swims and basks, we'll assume he's not sick.
Please read the attached link and check your care against the article.>
<The next thing is diet. The pet store will have Repto-Min sticks. They're good
but a bit expensive. HOWEVER ... on the same shelf at the bottom will be
commercial Koi pellets that contain the exact same food for mush less money.
Plants are good, lettuce & shrimp ... no. Actually ... NO! Switch him to the Koi
pellets as the staple and a weekly or every other week treat of an night crawler
earthworm (also available at the pet store.)>
Thanks so much for your help!
<Make these changes over the next month and then please write back, OK?>
Cherie
Florida Soft Shelled care, and turtle
sys. period 8/30/08
Dear Crew
<Hiya Tina - Darrel here
today>
I am going to do my best and keep this short...
<Let's see how
you do>
A few weeks ago my boyfriend surprised me with two baby turtles
from the reptile show that he had gone to, 1 Florida Soft Shelled
<Trionyx
ferox!! one of my all time favorite turtles>
and a Spiny Soft Shelled
<Trionyx spinifer - virtually identical care & needs in every respect>
We
are reptile people and have had many snakes and lizards over the years, some of
which we bred, so the turtles are a new venture for us!
<Welcome to a
bigger world, Tina. At the risk of hurting the feelings of my 4 iguanas, turtles
and tortoises are my favorite reptiles. While not possessing the intelligence or
personality of the iguanids, chelonians are fun, active, personable and
generally fun to be around ... come to think of it .. that also describes my
last girlfriend. Hmmmm>
They are in a tank together right now and seem to
be getting along just fine.
<Soft shell turtles are not particularly social, Tina. In the wild, they
tend to live singly like the snappers, mud & musk turtles as opposed to the
Emydids (Sliders, cooters, etc). They can be housed together and usually will
get along fine as long as there is enough room for them to get away from each
other when they need to. Make sure you feed them separately as well. Try to
entice them each to a different corner of the tank at feeding time so they don't
even APPEAR to have to compete for food.>
The tank air is at about 80 to 85
degrees normally and the water ranges from 72 in the early morning (before the
lights turn on) and 76 by time the lights turn off for the night. They have been
eating a pellet food that he got from the breeder and occasional frozen brine
shrimp (which the Florida loves!)
<Not bad. I use a high quality Koi
Pellet for all my aquatic turtles and I "treat" them with an occasional
earthworm (night crawlers which your local tropical fish store should carry)
Brine shrimp are OK, but there is very little nutritional value and the uneaten
shrimp foul your water ... which is an important consideration. Pellet food and
one worm per week per turtle is more than enough. The worms will keep in the
fridge for about a week and then you can dump the rest in your garden, which
does wonders for the plants.>
I have a filter and I am attempting to grow
vegetation in the tank presently.
<Item #1 and Item # VERY important, Tina.
Our soft shells require MUCH higher water quality than almost any other kind of
turtle. We're talking almost tropical fish-tank water quality. Crystal clear and
charcoal filtered. Skin/shell infections are serious conditions for the Trionyx
and VERY difficult to treat... so keep it clean>
<**********General Note to
Turtle Keepers Everywhere********>
<Please, abandon ALL hope of having a
mature biological filter system for your turtles the way you do for your fish
tanks. Chelonian dietary needs, combined with a fairly primitive digestive
system (aquatic turtles, at least) provide such a high output of .. um ... raw
materials for the biofilter that it has virtually NO hope of catching up and
keeping pace. Change the water regularly, siphon the bottom every time you
change, add lots of activated charcoal to the filter and change it regularly.
<Thanks for listening>
I noticed today that the Florida has a white tint to
his shell and I am growing concerned, Why would this happen and is it dangerous
to him. I would like to know what to do to fix this problem now so that I can
keep him for a long time to come. Please let me know if you have a clue as to
what it may be. It doesn't appear to be filmy, just white-ish.
<Difficult
to say Tina, for a number of reasons. First, fungal infections down IN the skin
(as opposed to on the surface) will appear whitish yet not slimy. Second,. as T.
ferox matures and loses that dark shell with the beautiful orange band, one of
the first things that happens is that the shell starts to "fade" by looking
slightly whitish. My suggestion for the moment is that you attend to the water
quality issues and then make sure that the tank lighting provides UVA and UVB
and then see that he (both of them actually) get plenty of natural sunlight. 15
to 20 minutes a day of direct sunlight. Now that doesn't mean COOK them of
course. Put them in a box with side high enough that they can't climb and place
that box where sunlight can hit the bottom directly and then cover half the top
so that there is shade. Even if they choose the shade, the unfiltered light that
reflects around the inside on the box is still "direct enough" to be
beneficial.>
<Here are some tips on keeping the Trionyx family: they DO
bask just like the rest of the water turtles and they NEED the UV light, same as
the others. Being somewhat shy about it, they do it carefully and away from eyes
(often in the weeds, reeds or tall grasses) in the wild. As they grow, they
spend much of their time buried in the sand where they only need stick out their
long snorkel-like neck to breathe. Now this is the part that people miss, when
the water is shallow enough that they can be UNDER the sand and still stick
their heads out of the water, a LOT of that hot Florida sunshine is reaching
them.>
<This brings up another tip: In every instance where I keep soft
shelled turtles, I have shallow water with small grained sand as least 3 times
deeper than their shell so that they can engage in this natural behavior.
Sometimes that can be as simple as a small clear plastic shoebox filled with
sand and set inside a bigger "normal" aquarium atop some rocks so that it's 1
inch under the surface.>
Sincerely,
Tina
<Check the water
quality issues, Tina. Provide the daily sunshine and write us back in 14 days --
Darrel>
UV Lighting for Reptiles: A new
problem with high UVB output fluorescent compact lamps and tubes?
7/15/08
Hi Neale
Christine over this way. I just wanted to thank you for all you help
answering all my questions. Also I just came across this on the
internet and thought you may find it interesting. I think this is
what is wrong with my turtles.
I think everyone needs to read this link and not use the UVB lights.
Thanks again Christine
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-cases.htm
<Hello Christine. This is one of those situations where humans tend
to be bad at judging risk. The same way we feel happy in cars (which
have an abysmal safety record) yet nervous in aeroplanes (the safest
way to travel). This report sites a few (twenty) cases of reptiles
getting sick from one particular brand of UV-B lamp. Yet the numbers
of captive reptiles in bad health because of lack of UV-B must run
into the thousands if not millions because so many people are too
cheap/too ignorant to buy these essential pieces of equipment. The
laboratory work is beyond debate on this: without access to UV-B,
reptiles cannot process Vitamin D correctly. See here:
http://www.anapsid.org/gehrman2.html
My worry with the article like the one you've drawn my attention to
is that some people will read the article and decide NOT to use UV-B
lights at all. Some of those folks out of genuine concern, others
because they're cheap and can now rationalise away the need to buy a
UV-B lamp. At most what that article is saying is that one specific
brand of UV-B lamp, the ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0, has been correlated by
some pet owners to observable health problems. However, as someone
who teaches biology including statistical methods, let me make this
completely clear: the authors of that web page have demonstrated no
statistically significant effect at all. We do not know how many
people also use ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0 and have perfectly healthy
reptiles for example. If each sick reptiles are only one in a
thousand healthy reptiles, then the effect is not significant.
Moreover, simply because two things happen one after the other (the
reptiles get sick after the new UV-B lights were installed) it does
not mean the two things were actually connected ("post hoc ergo
propter hoc"). These reptiles could be getting sick for other
reasons, e.g., the fact the UV-B lamps used before the new ones were
installed were weak, and so the reptiles had already started to
develop a UV-B deficiency, but only later did the symptoms become
visible. Or these pet owners could be using these high-power UV-B
lamps in a way not recommended by the manufacturer, e.g., in a
standard fitting that places them too close to the animal. In short,
while an interesting and perhaps worrying article, reptile keepers
should be fully aware that even if one particular brand of UV-B
lamps may have faults or may be easier to use incorrectly, UV-B
lamps remain essential parts of the kit and must be used. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: UV Lighting for Reptiles: A new
problem with high UVB output fluorescent compact lamps and tubes?
-07/18/08
Neale,
Thanks for your reply. I will absolutely continue to use the UVB light, as
you said it is vital for my turtles to live as with all other reptiles. I
just think that these companies that manufacture these lights should be more
careful and let the consumer know the effects this could have on all
reptiles if not used properly. People grow to love their reptiles and for
something to happen to them is devastating. Without the knowledge and time
of helpful people as yourself that we could rely on, some of us (especially
me) would never know what to do to keep our reptiles safe and happy.
Thanks once again Christine
<Hello Christine. I think you've hit the nail on the head. Researching
potential equipment purchases is just as important as finding about a pet
animal before you buy it. Some brands and models may well be better than
others, and discussing purchases on the various pet-keeping forums is always
worthwhile. As you express clearly, owners can develop a real bond with
reptile and amphibian pets, even if it isn't always clear that those animals
take much interest in us! My main worry in the reptile-keeping side of the
hobby is that so many people, especially children, buy these animals without
doing any kind of research at all because they are "cool". Only later do
they realise that in many ways reptiles are very demanding and expensive
animals to keep. Cheers, Neale.>
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UV Eh? UV Bee? - 10/07/2007
Hey,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
Do you know any brand or place I can buy a UVB bulb that is 50-75 watt? Also,
what is the average price for a UVB bulb. Thanks for your help.
<Hmmm. We're not, generally, in the business of being personal shoppers, Chris.
It's not that we don't want to help, but our job is to get information out there
so that you can more intelligently decide BETWEEN all the vendors and suppliers
out there.>
<I split my shopping between on-line sources and traditional "brick and mortar"
local stores. My reasoning is that if you and I and everyone else buy ALL of our
expensive goods and services from online sources, then the local retail
Pet/Fish/Reptile store that we really NEED for a Sunday afternoon emergency
won't be there anymore. In a way, the profit that they make from the sales of
filters, heaters and lamps is part of how they can "afford" to have the
livestock available too. Now, with that having been said, UV lights are
something that I've always purchased On-line. It's an area where I feel that
usually the store's selection is too small and I see too many "new and
revolutionary" brands of lights --but no literature or documentation of any sort
to back up their claims. For years I exclusively used Vita-Lite fluorescent
bulbs from DuroTest (because I could access real, scientific literature on their
bulbs) and had nothing but good results. Lately I've been using Repti-Sun
Compact Fluorescent from my friends over at Zoo Med and have no complaints.>
<The thing to keep in mind is that UV rays do not travel very far before they
diffuse and lose potential and for this reason they need to be quite close to
the animals for them to benefit. This is why I've always used linear fluorescent
(long tubes) -- I can get the entire bulb within inches of the turtles without
worrying about burning them.>
By the way, your website is really good and I learned a lot from reading your
replies.
<Thank you so much>
Thanks once again.
<No charge!>
A TwoFer! Turtle sys/UV light
and RES fdg. – 10/04/07
<What we have here is a TWO-FER! One question comes in and even before we
can answer, another follows the first one>
Hey guys,
<Hiya John - Darrel here>
I was just wondering, in the wild how do turtles and other reptiles get UVB and
uv rays on a cloudy day. Does UVB and uv rays still pass through the clouds. If
so, is it okay to leave my red eared slider outside on a cloudy day. Thanks for
all your help.
<There is some UV on cloudy days, but the simple answer is that some days they
don't get some. It's no big deal. We stress the importance of UV for two reasons
1) They need it for LONG TERM health and 2) We encourage all pet keepers to be
habitual about things -- in other words we want you to put your lights on timers
and UB bulbs above your tanks, etc. rather than relying on you to remember (or
forget) to take the turtle out for some sun. With that said ... if your UV bulb
burns out and it will take a week to get another one, don't break into a cold
sweat about it -- as long as they've had some recently and will have it back in
a week, or so .. they'll be just fine without it for a while.>
*
<Part Two!>
Hey guys,
<Hiya again!>
I was just wondering, do baby red eared slider, under about 2 inch, need a
varied diet or can I just feed them commercial stix, just until they get bigger
though.
<I feed mine Koi pellets from birth to breeding age. If the Sticks you mention
are Repto-min brand, they're the same thing - just in stick form and a lot more
expensive. They're a fine basic diet for their whole lives, John (see below)>
Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.
By the way, your website is great, I learned a lot about my pets and how to take
care of them. You guys are doing a great job!
<That's always nice to hear! We all try really hard. Well .. all except ONE of
us (he knows who he is!)>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Yellow bellied turtle, UK... Sys. –
07/26/07
Hi
<Hi right back! -- Darrel here>
We have 2 yellow bellied turtles and they have started to get white patches on
the top of their shell. The water temp is 27 degrees and the basking light temp
when on is 30 degrees.
<Well, it's a good thing that your email address tells us that you're across the
pond (as we say) in Britain, otherwise you'd be having frozen turtles.>
<Come to think of it, Across THE POND is a pretty good pun for a fish & water
web site, huh?>
<For us yanks, as they call us, who don't read Celsius, their water temp is 80.6
and their air/basking temp is 86 degrees>
We also have 2 fluorescent strip lights which we keep on all the time, we feed
them in a different tank to
keep the water clean in the main tank, we have a floating basking area we have a
Fluval 2 plus water filter in the tank, we feed them on dry shrimp and
occasionally blood worms and live worms as a treat. Could you tell me why and
how they are getting these white patches and what we can do to prevent this
happening?
<For one thing, you're certainly making a good effort! Feeding in a separate
tank is a neat way, but very laborious one .. so congratulations on your
efforts. The white patches sound like fungus and my guess would be that with the
water being HOT (should be around 73f) and the air being COOL (should be around
92f) you've accidentally set up a perfect growing environment for shell fungus.
Not to worry, easy to fix!
Search this web site (see the search bar below on the main page and put in
"Darrel" and "fungus") and you can see what I've written before.
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtlefdgfaqs.htm
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshelrotfaq2.htm
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rescompfaqs.htm
There are just three -- and there's more. In fact, I'm now a bit depressed that
I talk about fungus as much as I apparently do.>
Could you also tell me anything else we can do to keep them happy, and how long
should we keep the basking light on for and how long can we keep the UVA and UVB
fluorescent strip lights on for?
<Sounds like you're doing very well. I'd have both lights on for around 12 hours
a day, but turtles are VERY forgiving about that: If the light sources are
shorter, they'll just bask more during the "on" hours. The only thing I'd do is
increase the temperature difference between water and land.>
They both feed ok and swim about without any probs.
<Here's a link with all MY basics:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
Other than THAT .... I think you're doing GREAT!>
thanks tink
<Hmm, yesterday I was called Putzakitty .. and today Tink. Hmmmmm>
Pig Nosed River Turtle Questions, sys. 4/16/07
Hello guys, I hope you can bear with me and try to answer my questions, I am
really sorry I have so many questions and taking up your precious time. Really
appreciate your help and time and efforts! Thank you in advance!
My pig nose turtle has been really restless for the past month, swimming from
one end to the other in the tank and flapping water furiously but stopped once I
go over or pat it on its head. Last time it (I am still not sure of its gender,
I know a long tail and long nails at front flippers should indicate a ‘he’ but I
am not sure how long exactly is considered long enough.) used to calm down after
I fed it but food doesn’t work anymore so I really don’t know what my turtle is
asking for now. I have seen similar questions posted in the forum but the
replies did not directly explain this behaviour. I have varied the diet but it
didn’t help. I have kept the turtle for years and this hasn’t happened before.
There’s no hiding place for my turtle and I will try to get one because it’s
difficult to find a cave-like structure big and light enough for the glass tank.
My turtle is about 22cm from head to tail and 17cm in width.. Do you know how
old it is?.
< They grow very slowly and no literature is available on the growth rate of
this turtle.>
When I bought it, I believed it was just a hatchling, no bigger than about 10cm
from head to tail.
And is it also 80F for the water temperature for Pignose turtle?
< That sounds like it is in the range for this species.>
Can you tell me how many Celsius degree is 80F?
<Around 27 C.>
Should the basking area be higher in temperature?
< Generally the basking areas are always higher so the animal can increase its
body temp to fight disease and to aid in digestion.>
And aside from the basking light, do I also need another lamp for the tank?
< You need heat and another lamp to provide the proper lighting spectrum for
vitamin development.>
Are these two kinds of lamps different?
< Usually yes although some lamps can provide both heat and some UV radiation.>
And should I keep the lights on during the day and off at night?
< Yes.>
I also don’t have a basking area for it, because the water level of the tank is
about three quarter full and I have no idea how to build a basking area so high
above the water. If I keep the water level lower, will it deprive my turtle in
terms of swimming space?
< Yes try and build a shelf on which the turtle can get out on. ZooMed makes a
Turtle Dock for just such a situation but it is not big enough for a turtle like
yours.>
If I put it out in a tub for basking, is half an hour enough?
< Only the turtle itself knows how long it needs to bask.>
It doesn’t really get a lot of direct sunlight because I stay in a flat and have
no garden or porches or anything in kind.
Do I need to add a bit of water in the tub?
< This is a very aquatic turtle that in the wild would spend hours swimming
around in a big river. If you are going to confine it to a tube then I would
still and try to provide as much swimming are as possible.>
So sorry I have so many questions. I hope you can answer to them all. So sorry
to take up so much of your time and efforts, really appreciate any help given!..
Thank you soo soo much!
Lost and frantic owner, Jaz Singapore
< This is a very rare turtle and I believe on some CITES lists too. Very scarce
and very expensive in the U.S. The cool thing about these turtles is they look
and act like ocean sea turtles but are found in fresh water instead. They get
pretty big for a pet turtle. The shell can get up to almost 20 inches and they
can weigh up to 35 lbs. There is very little known about these turtles and
literature is scarce. Since they get soo big and are very aquatic I would try
and give them as much swimming space as possible. They may come out to bask
occasionally but I don't think they will use a basking spot very often. Some
people in the US that are fortunate enough to have this turtle have told me that
they are totally aquatic and don't require a basking spot. But I would still
provide UVB and UVA over the basking site to cover my bases. The basking site
should still be around 85 to 90 F. The water temp should be around 80 F. The
diet may need to be modified for minerals that it may not be getting. Try adding
a few vitamins to the food to see if that helps settle him down.-Chuck>
Basking Light For Turtle - 4/8/07
Hi, I have a 1 and a half inch long yellow bellied slider. We have a 60 watt
basking spot lamp. I don't know if it's UVA or UVB. Anyway, how long do I keep
it on? How does he sleep if it's on all night? Please get back to me ASAP.
Thank-you, Emily
< You should have a lamp for heat. It should heat the basking site up to at
least 85 F. The other lamp should provide both UVB and UVA. Check the writing on
the lamp and look it up on the internet to see what you got. They should both be
on during normal daylight hours, about 10-12 hours every day.-Chuck>
Turtles
Need The Right Light 1/3/07
Hi , I need some help about the set-up of terrapin tank. From this website
and several others , I found out that basking spot is needed for
terrapin but currently I didn't have any UVB or UVA light installed. I
recently have 3 small terrapin in a rather small tank, approximately
25cm by 40cm, and I wanted to ask whether is UVB and UVA really
necessary ?
< Absolutely! This lighting prevents shell problems and helps the turtle
develop normally.>
Because from some other website , they say that placing your tank near
natural sunlight is sufficient.
<UVB and UVA is somewhat filtered out by glass. To make sure they get
what they need it is best to actually purchase the correct lighting they
require.>
My question is, is it true that by placing the tank at natural sun light
sufficient for the terrapin ?
<Depends on many factors. Duration and intensity of the light are the
big ones. The sun moves through out the year. What may work today may
not work in a few weeks when then sun changes its angles for the
seasons.>
If it is sufficient, should the tank be placed under direct sunlight or
just a spot whereby there is sun light? I hope you do get what I mean
because my command of English isn't very good.
< The hours off illumination should match the outdoor daylight hours.
Longer in the summer and shorter in the winter. If you keep you turtles
indoors where it is warm and limit there basking hours to the short
winter time exposures they will have problems. Turtle can live for 40+
years with proper care. I would recommend that you invest the small sum
required to give these little guys a chance at a long health life.>
Also like several of the people here , I have 1 terrapin that's less
active and closes its eyes for a longer duration compared to the other 2
turtles.
When I hold it , it will open its eyes and clearly its not swollen and
look visually infection free. It mixes around with the other 2 terrapins
and also eats normally. Is it ok ?
< When I pick up a healthy turtle, it should retract into its shell for
a moment and then extend its legs and attempt to get away. Staying
retracted in its shell for an extended time does not sound healthy.>
Is my tank too small for them? They are about 3 cm (1"+) in length?
< Your tank is fine for them at the moment, but you will need a bigger
tank in about a year if you follow my recommendations.>
I hope you could reply as soon as possible as I love them a lot and I
don't want them to pass away like their friends and other terrapin I got
from those shops.
< Spend a little money to get the right equipment a they will reward you
with years of entertainment.>
Is it true that they recognize their owner in time?
<They are really smart. After awhile they realize who is the one feeding
them and soon they will be begging every time they see you.-Chuck>
Keeping Turtles In The Dark 2/13/06
I know I am supposed to get a UVA/UVB light and a heat lamp for the basking
area, but at night when I go to sleep, should I turn off both, or just the
UVA/UVB light?
< Turn off all the lights at night.>
Also, I have been given advice to get a water heater that transfers heat from a
pad underneath the tank. Will that work ok, or should I put the heat source
directly in the water?
<Follow the manufacturers directions and use the product as it is intended. If
the pad is not intended for use under an aquarium then do not use it.>
One more question. As far as thermometers go, can I stick them on the inside of
the glass tank, or will that give me an inaccurate reading of the real
temperature of the water and the air?
< Follow the directions on the package of the thermometer for best
results.-Chuck> thinks Dan
Turtle Questions - 2/4/2006
Do turtles need a shaded spot?
<They should have an area under the water out of the direct light. On land they
do not need one.>
I just bought a 29gal long tank, 2 small 1" RES's, have about 9"s of water (had
them with little water before) and a large floating a whisper filter up to 40gal
filter, floating large island and a night bulb and day bulb from Wal-Mart. Do
turtles need no light at all sometimes?
< They should have between 10 to 12 hours of darkness to reflect a normal day.>
Should I use the night bulb at night and day bulb in the day?
< The daytime bulb should contain UVA and UVB. There is no need for the night
time bulb.>
Should there be no light sometimes?
< Ten to twelve hours of darkness will allow them to get the rest they need.>
How soon (sidewise I guess) should you feed turtles small fish?
< Small turtles need a bigger percentage of protein than older turtles. I would
recommend that you stay away from the feeder fish and go with a commercial
turtle diet supplemented with washed earthworms, mealworms , crickets and
kingworms.>
What type of fish do they eat?
< In the wild they will eat whatever fish they can catch.>
Does it matter? I took all the rocks out now, now they have a lot of room to
swim?
They will probably appreciate the additional space.>
I will be buying another small island, so the 2 can bask in there own spot, good
idea?
<Yes if they will use it that way. Normally they go to which ever spot is the
warmest.>
What is the best temp? I've herd from 74-80 F?
< The basking spot should be at least 85 to 90 F. The water can be at room
temperature.-Chuck>
Thanks, Alex L
UVA/UVB For Turtles - 11/07/2005
I posted this question on the forums a week ago, but no one has replied, so
I hope you don't mind my asking you directly.
<No prob.>
I read an answer that y'all posted on your web site, that suggested using a
plant light for turtles to bask under, because it provides almost the same type
of light as the sun. If I get a regular plant light bulb from Wal-Mart will that
provide both heat and UVA/UVB rays for my Red-eared sliders?
<Mm, no, highly unlikely.>
I've read the packages and they don't mention UVA/UVB at all.
<I very much doubt that they would provide UVA/UVB.... but you can always
contact the manufacturer and ask!>
Thank you. You have a great web site.
<And thank you for your kind words!>
Rebekah
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Baby Red Eared Turtles 8/13/05
Sorry, I tried to find the answers to these but there were way too many
entries to look through and no web search would bring them into focus
for me.
< Thanks for trying.>
So, here are my questions: I have 2 red eared sliders that I have had
for about a year now ("adopted" them as hatchlings) I have been told
that for being as old as they are that they are really small (they were
about the size of a half dollar when I got them, are now about 2")...how
big should they be after a year?
< Depends on temperature and conditions. Somewhere in the two to 4 inch range.>
I would also like to confirm that I have adequate lighting so what I am using
currently is the Exo-Terra Day Glo 150W (is that too high?
< That is fine.>
Does that cover the "sunlight" effect as well as the fluorescent lighting?)
< That's all you need.>
and it is used in the lamp that glows
at night to give them the effect of the moon...how long should I leave
it on during the day?
< I would put it on a timer and set it for 12 hours per day. Set it so you will
be home to watch them. I would try 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.>
Right now I just have it set to come on shortly
after the sun comes up and go off just before it goes down. It is on a
timer so it's pretty accurate. Any help on the lighting issue would be
greatly appreciated, this just seems to be the one issue I can't get a
straight answer on! Thank you for your time!!! Rhea
< Sounds like you are doing everything right.-Chuck>
Red Ear Sliders
I have had two red ear sliders for about 6 months. They were about quarter
size when I first got them. They seem to being doing well. I am getting ready to
purchase a 90 gallon tank for them. I don't know what kind or equipment I should
get for them,( i.e. filter, lighting, heaters) I currently have a basking light
and a UV light in a 20 gallon tank. I have been doing a lot of reading but can
seem to find any answers. Can you help? Thanks a bunch Joni
>>>Greetings Joni,
Good on ya for taking the time to learn about your charges! These animals need a
warm basking spot which can be provided with a heat lamp. This basking area
should be in the high 80's to low 90's. Water temps should be maintained with an
aquarium heater in the mid 70's. The ambient air temperature of the enclosure
should remain in the low 80's or so. They require UVB exposure, so keep this in
mind when shopping for lights. Now personally, I don't believe these UVB bulbs
on the market are worth the cardboard they're packaged in. My reptiles ALWAYS
get natural sunlight when possible. I would create an outdoor area, or small
enclosure for them to allow them bask during warmer weather. Having said that,
you can use a commercial UVB bulb in the interim. The main heat in the enclosure
can be provided with a ceramic heat element, which may only come on rarely
(hooked to a thermostat) when the basking light is on during the day. At night,
the heater will kick on more often. Thermostats can be purchased at most better
pet stores.
Use 1 or 2 Aquaclear power filters on that tank to filter the water. You need
filters that provide a rapid turnover, and are easy to clean. Canister filters
are appropriate as well.
Does all that make sense? Please feel free to drop me a line back if you need
clarification. Remember, ambient air temps are what the enclosure is generally
kept at. The basking spot is hotter, and the animals should be able to move
around within that spot to thermoregulate. Water temp is separate as well, and
maintained with an aquarium heater.
Good luck
Jim<<<
Red Eared Slider Setup 7.24.05
I have read the questions posted on your site and did not specifically see
these. If I missed them, I apologize. My daughter received a red eared slider
for her birthday (her idea; she researched it first). It is in a 40 breeder
tank with a heater, filter, and a reptile light that gives off both UVA and UVB
light. She cleans the tank regularly. Since we have had the slider, it eats
well, defecates regularly, and is an active swimmer. We have never seen it
climb onto the basking rock. It remains in the water all the time. Is that
okay? Should it want to get out to the water daily? Additionally, it seems to
have eaten the Dr. Turtle block that came in the starter kit. Since then, it
seems to defecate a lot. Could the turtle get diarrhea? We removed the
block. Please advise.
<Sounds like a great setup, I am not sure the ingredients in the Dr. Turtle
block but I think removing it was a good idea. The diarrhea should pass. I
recall having the same problem when I added one of these turtle blocks. If the
water is warm the turtle does not feel the need to leave the water to bask, you
might try turning down the heater in the water if you have one to see if this
encourages the turtle to bask. Otherwise you can take him out from time to time
to walk around outside, the sunlight is good for him and drying out helps to
prevent shell fungus and rot and similar nasties. Best Regards, Gage>
Turtle Tank Basking Light
Thank for the info! Right now I am not sure whether I'm going to buy a 20gal
or a 12gal.
<Go for the 20, preferable a 20gal long.>
The 12 gal has all the lighting and everything included, but I probably will get
the 20gal. Do I need a basking light if I have a water heater and fluorescent
lights?
<Yes, the turtle will need to climb out of the water to bask and dry off, this
helps prevent infections and rot and other nasties. Best Regards, Gage>
I was going to get a basking light just in case but I want to be sure. Thanks
again! -Sarah
Turtles Need Light
Hi, I have 2 red-ear sliders, and I wasn't aware they needed UVB lights
until a few days ago. I have a tank outside, and have been taking them out there
during the day to get sunlight and bringing them in at night. Will that work the
same as having the UV light?
(please email me back the answer)
Thanks, Melissa
< Natural sunlight is the best thing for them. When I was a young boy we set up
a plastic kiddie wadding pool outside. We covered one half of the pool with a
piece of plywood and left the other half exposed and placed a brick out in the
open for her to bask on. In Southern Calif we left her out for 17 years and
never brought her indoors. We changed the water in the pool once a week and
scrapped the algae off her shell with a soft brush every once in awhile.-Chuck>
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