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FAQs About Turtle Systems 2 Related Articles: Turtles,
Amphibians, Red
Eared Slider Care, The
Care and Keeping of the Red Eared Slider,
Trachemys scripta elegans by
Darrel Barton,
Related FAQs: Turtle
Systems 1, RES
Systems, & Turtles 1,
Turtles 2,
Red Ear Sliders,
Turtle Identification,
Turtle Behavior,
Turtle Compatibility,
Turtle Selection,
Turtle Feeding,
Turtle Disease,
Turtle Reproduction,
Amphibians, Other
Reptiles,
Amphibious turtles need to be able to get out, dry
completely.
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Turtle Dock - 02/09/2007
I am making a turtle dock out of PVC and plexi-glass. What glues do your
recommend? Would PVC cement ( Oatey's brand) be ok?
<I would use this between the PVC pipe itself and some Silastic ("Silicone") to
adhere the Plexi to the top>
Also, what is the difference between silicone adhesive and silicone sealant?
<These are identical>
I have heard many different
things, and I do not want to kill the turtles.
Thanks for your help,
Katherine
<Just look for, buy one that states it is 100% Silicone... no additives (some
have mildewcides for tub, window applications). Bob Fenner>
Putting my turtles to
hibernation 11/19/07
Hi
<Hiya! Darrel here>
I have a Three Toed Box Turtle (about 6 or 7 inches long) that I have had for 6
or 7 months. I keep him in a large outdoor 5x8 cage built out of cinder blocks 2
high and lined with bricks sunk in the ground inside to keep him from digging
out. There is a small shallow pond in it and I also have a chain link cover over
the top. Our dirt is mostly clay so I mixed up a patch of it with lots of sand
for him to dig in but he never digs.
<Box turtles seldom dig actual holes. They're more likely to just find a natural
depression at the base of some plant and hunker down for the evening or the
season that way.>
It is starting to get colder so I figure he should go into hibernation soon. The
thing is he doesn't dig so I don't know if he will just go sit somewhere and
hibernate. That would be bad for him right?
<"Bad" is a relative term, Amanda. Winter causes their systems to shut down to a
minimum for the season, but you have to remember that in nature, not all of our
animal friends survive each winter. When possible or practical, I arrange for my
animals to be spared the entire process>
I also considered putting a box stuffed with hay for him to dig into in his cage
so he wouldn't have to go underground.
<Two course of action here. You could find a bigger box of cardboard or wood,
put some straw or hay in the bottom and bring him inside, maybe to your room,
and spare him the whole hibernation process. Two, you could get a smaller box,
fill it with straw as you suggest and place him in a safe place on your porch or
in your garage and let him shut down for the season. You don't say where you
live, so I'm not sure just how cold or dangerous your winters are. More on this
in a moment>
Should I stop feeding him yet so his food won't rot in his stomach?
<As fall approaches their appetites should start to shrink and yes, you should
slowly reduce their feedings, both in amount and frequency>
I also have a Map Turtle (about 4 or 5 inches long) I keep in an outdoor
aquarium. Last year I just put him in a smaller container and put him in our
glassed in porch (its unheated) and he hibernated on the bottom of the tank. Is
this an okay way for him to hibernate this year?
<A lot of the same advice applies, Amanda. For my inside animals and individual
specimens, I bring them inside the house or porch and add a little heat and
avoid hibernation, but for my outdoor ponds I have no choice but to let nature
take it's course. The worry is that the pond is deep enough and the body of
water large enough to maintain some temperature balance (cold or hot) and here's
the reason: Most of our reptile and fish friends from temperate climates can
hibernate over winter without problem, but what I call "almost winter" can be
lethal to them. "Almost Winter" is where it is clearly winter and their
metabolisms shut down according to plan, but it's not cold ENOUGH to shut down
all the way .... or it has too many warm periods where they reheat and become
semi-active only to be hit by another cold snap .. these transitions can be
lethal to them.>
<Here's an example: Yes, you could put your Map turtle in a large enough tank
and allow him to over-winter, or you could keep the water warm to around 65-70
and a basking area warm to 88-90 and avoid winter altogether. BUT .... if you
were to let the water become 50 or 55 and still have the basking area active,
his only choices would be TOO HOT (for winter) and TOO COLD (for summer).
Personally, I'd rather see the Map Turtle in a tank on top of the dresser in
your room all year 'round than outside.>
I would appreciate any reply to this.
Thanks. -Amanda
<You're welcome & best of luck to you!>
Re: Putting my turtles to
hibernation 11/24/07
Thanks for all of the tips but I have a few questions about what you said. I
live in Southern Louisiana and the weather has been going under 35 for a few
days and back up to 85 for awhile from what you told me this is dangerous for
them.
<Well, see .. this is where more information is better. Southern Louisiana
doesn't really have "winter" in the conventional sense. Your turtles won't
really "hibernate" in the traditional sense but rather slow way, way down to a
state we call "torpid".>
Should I just take them in the garage where the change is less severe until the
weather levels out?
<In the climate you have as I now understand it, they'll both be fine outside
during the winter PROVIDED that
(A) - They are healthy, active and properly fed until this winter started,
(B) - you stop feeding them until the weather warms permanently and
(C) - the winter is more or less "normal" and starts warming again in late March
or April>
I would bring them both inside for the winter (the Map Turtle all the time) but
my parents have a no pets in the house policy.
<I have two sons. Reptiles and fish are welcome in my house ... it's a no KIDS
inside policy I'd like to have!>
How big would a box for the box turtle have to be for him to live comfortably if
I were to take him inside?
<For "over wintering" not very big at all. Twice his length would be fine, but
in Southern Louisiana I wouldn't worry about it.>
I don't have a basking lamp for my map turtle but I have his tank where the sun
hits it in the morning and afternoon sort of a natural lamp does he need a real
lamp?
<Make sure the sun isn't filtered through the glass. Standard aquarium glass and
even window glass filter out a great deal of the healthy UV waves and can over
heat them as well. If you do that, you should be fine. Make sure that all
animals that get direct sunlight can also get OUT of that sunlight when they
choose.>
Thanks again for a reply.
Amanda
Turtle Tank Molded Background 11/19/07
Hi Crew
<Hiya Alex>
Do you guys know of where one can purchase one of the molded backgrounds for a
turtle tank? I've seen them before where they look like a rock wall, and
sometimes I'll see where someone has worked a waterfall into the mold, etc. I'm
not sure what they're made of, but I know there is a place in the UK that sells
them. Just wondering if there is anywhere stateside that offers them for a 55
gal. tank?
<Nothing comes to mind, Alex, beyond the Google searching that you're already
doing -- but here's an idea you might consider: Make one yourself! It doesn't
have to be a molded plastic to be effective. Start with a piece of cardboard
painted to a background color and then attach anything that interests you in
various places. It has the advantage of being very cheap and easily changed.
Currently, my son has one behind is 55 gallon marine aquarium that has fake
plastic plants and hidden around them is a crushed coke can, three pop-tops
(that's an old age memory), an obviously crashed Hot wheels car and an empty can
of Star-Kist Tuna (that last one may be a cry for help!) and he changes them on
a regular basis. Just a thought>
<Regards - Darrel>
Turtle care question (RES):
basking problem 10/23/07
I have two turtles living in a 55 gal. tank. I have a problem with the
basking space though. I've gotten the floating dock/platforms (like R-Zilla or
Zoo-Med) and I've also tried cork. The problem is that one of the turtles bites
the platform, so I end up with bitten pieces messing the tank as well as
clogging the filters, and platforms getting smaller and smaller for turtles that
keep getting bigger and bigger =D
Both turtles are in good health and well fed. I've had them for a couple of
years and they are about 5" now (when I got the first one is was smaller than
1"), but I just 'adopted' the one that chews the platforms a few months ago.
What can be causing this behavior? Any other ideas on materials or designs I can
use to create a new basking area? Thanks in advance.
Yenelli
<Greetings. To be honest, the floating cork idea sounds a bit of a non-runner.
Possibly viable for delicate things like frogs, but inadequate for turtles. So
I'd get rid of that. Floating platforms really aren't going to work for adult
turtles. Fine for fingerlings, but an adult Red Ear Slider is the size of a
dinner plate with a weight to match, and that's simply not going to balance on
any floating object much smaller than the Queen Mary! Instead, you need to
create a rigid platform above the waterline. There are lots of ways to create a
safe and stable basking area like this. The classic approach is to create a rock
or sand bank at one end of the tank. This might involved safely securing some
rocks in a heap, and then filling the gaps with sand or gravel to stop things
from rolling down accidentally. Using silicone sealant is always a good idea
when creating such structures. Three or four squarish boulders with a big slate
on top can also make a nice table-like structure. Sliders really aren't that
fussy. The most important thing is that whatever you make is [a] stable and [b]
easy to clean. Cheers, Neale.>
UV Eh? UV Bee? - 10/07/2007
Hey,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
Do you know any brand or place I can buy a UVB bulb that is 50-75 watt? Also,
what is the average price for a UVB bulb. Thanks for your help.
<Hmmm. We're not, generally, in the business of being personal shoppers, Chris.
It's not that we don't want to help, but our job is to get information out there
so that you can more intelligently decide BETWEEN all the vendors and suppliers
out there.>
<I split my shopping between on-line sources and traditional "brick and mortar"
local stores. My reasoning is that if you and I and everyone else buy ALL of our
expensive goods and services from online sources, then the local retail
Pet/Fish/Reptile store that we really NEED for a Sunday afternoon emergency
won't be there anymore. In a way, the profit that they make from the sales of
filters, heaters and lamps is part of how they can "afford" to have the
livestock available too. Now, with that having been said, UV lights are
something that I've always purchased On-line. It's an area where I feel that
usually the store's selection is too small and I see too many "new and
revolutionary" brands of lights --but no literature or documentation of any sort
to back up their claims. For years I exclusively used Vita-Lite fluorescent
bulbs from DuroTest (because I could access real, scientific literature on their
bulbs) and had nothing but good results. Lately I've been using Repti-Sun
Compact Fluorescent from my friends over at Zoo Med and have no complaints.>
<The thing to keep in mind is that UV rays do not travel very far before they
diffuse and lose potential and for this reason they need to be quite close to
the animals for them to benefit. This is why I've always used linear fluorescent
(long tubes) -- I can get the entire bulb within inches of the turtles without
worrying about burning them.>
By the way, your website is really good and I learned a lot from reading your
replies.
<Thank you so much>
Thanks once again.
<No charge!>
A TwoFer! Turtle sys/UV light and RES fdg.
– 10/04/07
<What we have here is a TWO-FER! One question comes in and even before we
can answer, another follows the first one>
Hey guys,
<Hiya John - Darrel here>
I was just wondering, in the wild how do turtles and other reptiles get UVB and
uv rays on a cloudy day. Does UVB and uv rays still pass through the clouds. If
so, is it okay to leave my red eared slider outside on a cloudy day. Thanks for
all your help.
<There is some UV on cloudy days, but the simple answer is that some days they
don't get some. It's no big deal. We stress the importance of UV for two reasons
1) They need it for LONG TERM health and 2) We encourage all pet keepers to be
habitual about things -- in other words we want you to put your lights on timers
and UB bulbs above your tanks, etc. rather than relying on you to remember (or
forget) to take the turtle out for some sun. With that said ... if your UV bulb
burns out and it will take a week to get another one, don't break into a cold
sweat about it -- as long as they've had some recently and will have it back in
a week, or so .. they'll be just fine without it for a while.>
*
<Part Two!>
Hey guys,
<Hiya again!>
I was just wondering, do baby red eared slider, under about 2 inch, need a
varied diet or can I just feed them commercial stix, just until they get bigger
though.
<I feed mine Koi pellets from birth to breeding age. If the Sticks you mention
are Repto-min brand, they're the same thing - just in stick form and a lot more
expensive. They're a fine basic diet for their whole lives, John (see below)>
Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.
By the way, your website is great, I learned a lot about my pets and how to take
care of them. You guys are doing a great job!
<That's always nice to hear! We all try really hard. Well .. all except ONE of
us (he knows who he is!)>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Yellow bellied scum does not HAVE to be
fightin' words! Turtle... sys. 9/13/07
Hi,
<Hi Lois! -- There's a joke there for those of us that are very old>
My daughters each have a yellow bellied slider, about 2 years old. They seem to
be doing fine. Last summer we got a baby pool and started putting them out there
filled with well water (sulfa water). They seem to enjoy being together and more
swimming room. Recently I noticed their shells have green on them. I scrubbed
them with tooth brushes to get it off but it doesn’t seem to get it all. Their
tanks are kept clean and there are no green algae in them. How do I get the
green off of their shells and will it hurt them?
<It's algae. While the turtle shell looks smooth to you and I .. it has lots of
micro pores that certain filament-algae can really sink their roots into. It's
not harmful too them at all, Lois and the solution, beyond simply keeping the
tank clean and the water cool -- is to increase their basking time. The more
they can haul out & dry off in the warm UV rays ... the more that pesky stuff
will just fade away. But if it stays, it's merely a nuisance.>
Thank you
<You're welcome -- Darrel>
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Red worm looking things in turtle/fish
tank 9/12/07
Hello Crew,
<Hiya Lauren -- Darrel here at my desk in Honolulu today>
I was wondering what these things are. I found them in my filter when I went to
clean it out. They are inside, and I feed them Krill. Could it be baby krill???
I fed them some shrimp a couple times but other than that it's been regular
turtle food.
<Krill & shrimp require a very different environment to hatch, so no it's not
that.>
If you want me to send you a picture of them I will. I have 2 Red Eared Sliders,
and 2 Eastern Painted Turtles.
<What you have are one of a whole family or worms and/or Planaria and they are
exactly what you see -- little worms. They're parasites and can get into a
closed tank system in many ways. Your solution is to break down the tank and
then clean and sterilize everything -- pay close attention to the filter and the
filter lines & hoses. And you may have to do this several times, since the
turtles have undoubtedly ingested some of them (or the food they road in on). In
other words, worm eggs are probably in the pipeline (so to speak).>
<the good news is that they're just a maintenance hassle and not really
dangerous to your animals>
I just recently added a goldfish, but these wormy looking things were there
before I got the goldfish.
<fish are common transmitters of parasites too (Not that Goldie is our source)
but speaking of sources, she might be a source of dinner for your turtles. There
are a number of reasons not to feed them goldfish -- not the least of which is
that the turtles are not very good at that kind of hunting and the goldfish can
live & thrive until one day you have these HUGE goldfish that were supposed to
be dinner and now have names and they're too big for the turtle pond so you put
them in your Koi pond only to find that they're so pushy that they're bossing
around and terrorizing your 10 pound Koi!>
<well OK, just because that happened to ME doesn't mean it will happen to you
... but ya never know...>
Thanks,
Lauren
Re: Red worm looking things in turtle/fish
tank – 09/13/07
Haha wow thanks so much! I've cleaned it out already and I'll keep an eye
out. If I have anymore questions I'll be sure and ask on here, if I can't find
an answer from google.
<By "find an answer from Google" we certainly hope you mean the Google Search
Bar at the bottom of our WetWebMedia Page after having checked the "WetWebMedia"
box, correct? Not Google "in general", right? The web "in general" is a great
place to buy a pair of socks or find out who thinks that aliens from the planet
Zordo have landed, but when it comes to things wet & living, please start here!
Not only do we know what we're doing, but the site gets better with every
question asked and answered!>
Take Care,
Lauren
<Darrel>
Map Turtle Queries
8/30/07
Hi,
<Hiya right back! -- Darrel here>
I'm just curious if I am caring for my Mississippi Map Turtle, as best I can? I
got him in March and researched thoroughly beforehand and afterwards but still
some things I'm unsure about.
<Wow! Just researching before you obtain makes you special, Melissa! Congrats>
He currently has a large 3ft x 2ft x 2ft tank (I don't know how many gallons of
water it holds, but takes ages to clean!), even though he's only approx 4.5
inches long from tail to head. We have just upgraded his tank as he's grown from
1 inch to 4.5 inches in just 6 months!! (..is that right for a Map Turtle?)
<That's fast .... way too fast. Map Turtles are actually one of the more
slow-growing turtles>
The tank is set up with gravel lining the bottom, sloping up to where the
basking rock is placed, with UV lighting which is lit for about 8 hours a day.
The water is heated to approx 90F and to the touch is always lukewarm. The water
is also filtered and pumped around the tank, which is filled with water to the
depth of about 8 inches.
<everything you have there is PERFECT ..... except the water. Turn the heater
OFF. Any room temperature YOU can stand is good for him. The point is to offer
cool water and a warm rock and let him choose between the two. With the water at
90 degrees you have his metabolism in over-drive and that's why he's growing so
fast.>
My main concern is with his diet, I feed him in the morning and some extra food
sticks through the day if he's searching the gravel. I give him about 10 food
sticks each morning and if they haven't all been munched by about 15 minutes, I
clear any that are left. I do give him washed, small pieces of lettuce and
cucumber (without the skin) but I'm not sure if these are okay? Therefore I only
feed him this once a week (although he seems to like it!) Would you suggest he
needs more/less green veg?
<They are omnivorous, Melissa and eat almost whatever is offered. The food
sticks are just fine -- as I wrote in an article (I'm sending you the link) I've
raised sliders, maps and cooters from hatchlings to breeders on nothing but Koi
food. Just like your food sticks, it's nutritious, plenty of vegetable matter
and just a fine food.>
I am quite squeamish, and couldn't chop up live earthworms, or watch him eat a
goldfish, so will he be okay just with food sticks and some veggies
occasionally? Or are there less 'messy' live foods I could give him that are
suitable for a Map Turtle?
<Goldfish aren't all that good a food for them anyway. And they don't taste very
good, either. Er..... ah .... um .... so I hear. If you feed him an earthworm
every so often, don't chop it -- just put it in there and walk away.>
He is a lovely turtle and I want to make sure I'm doing the best I can to take
care of him, He is healthy and does the usual "begging" every morning, splashing
water loads at about 6am!! He's definitely got us well trained! Even though he
can make a racket and takes time to clean, I love him to bits! Any help or
advice would be great to help my turtle, "Squirt", live the best life possible!
(Sorry for the massive email!)
<Melissa -- you're doing GREAT except for the heat thing, which I'm sure you'll
correct. Down below is a general outline on the water turtles (sliders, etc.)
and the main addition with regard to Map turtles -- is water quality. They are
far more susceptible to disease and debilitation from substandard water than
most of the rest of them, so keep cleaning that tank and tending to that
filter.>
Many Thanks
<You are most welcome!>
Melissa Tostevin (UK)
<Darrel Barton (Torrance, California, USA)>
<By the way, Melissa, I used my Word Editor to add a LOT of apostrophes to your
letter. Is there a shortage of them in the Old Empire?>
Yellow bellied turtle, UK... Sys. –
07/26/07
Hi
<Hi right back! -- Darrel here>
We have 2 yellow bellied turtles and they have started to get white patches on
the top of their shell. The water temp is 27 degrees and the basking light temp
when on is 30 degrees.
<Well, it's a good thing that your email address tells us that you're across the
pond (as we say) in Britain, otherwise you'd be having frozen turtles.>
<Come to think of it, Across THE POND is a pretty good pun for a fish & water
web site, huh?>
<For us yanks, as they call us, who don't read Celsius, their water temp is 80.6
and their air/basking temp is 86 degrees>
We also have 2 fluorescent strip lights which we keep on all the time, we feed
them in a different tank to
keep the water clean in the main tank, we have a floating basking area we have a
Fluval 2 plus water filter in the tank, we feed them on dry shrimp and
occasionally blood worms and live worms as a treat. Could you tell me why and
how they are getting these white patches and what we can do to prevent this
happening?
<For one thing, you're certainly making a good effort! Feeding in a separate
tank is a neat way, but very laborious one .. so congratulations on your
efforts. The white patches sound like fungus and my guess would be that with the
water being HOT (should be around 73f) and the air being COOL (should be around
92f) you've accidentally set up a perfect growing environment for shell fungus.
Not to worry, easy to fix!
Search this web site (see the search bar below on the main page and put in
"Darrel" and "fungus") and you can see what I've written before.
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtlefdgfaqs.htm
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshelrotfaq2.htm
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rescompfaqs.htm
There are just three -- and there's more. In fact, I'm now a bit depressed that
I talk about fungus as much as I apparently do.>
Could you also tell me anything else we can do to keep them happy, and how long
should we keep the basking light on for and how long can we keep the UVA and UVB
fluorescent strip lights on for?
<Sounds like you're doing very well. I'd have both lights on for around 12 hours
a day, but turtles are VERY forgiving about that: If the light sources are
shorter, they'll just bask more during the "on" hours. The only thing I'd do is
increase the temperature difference between water and land.>
They both feed ok and swim about without any probs.
<Here's a link with all MY basics:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
Other than THAT .... I think you're doing GREAT!>
thanks tink
<Hmm, yesterday I was called Putzakitty .. and today Tink. Hmmmmm>
Heated Turtles 6/29/07
Hello
<Hello back to you>
I just recently bought two baby turtles and provided them with everything. I
have an aquarium heater which keeps the water temp to ~78 Fahrenheit. The
basking area is set to 85-90 F. The problem is that my turtles don't seem to
bask a lot anymore. They spend a lot of the time in the water swimming, even
sleeping in the water. I just wanted to know if this was healthy. They are both
eating regularly and seem healthy. If there's something wrong with them, can you
provide some suggestions as to what I can do to make it better.
<Yes, I can. The water temperature is too warm and this dampens their desire to
bask. Unfortunately, without drying off it subjects them to opportunistic fungal
and bacterial infections that take root in the constantly wet skin. The water
temperature should be no warmer than 73 degrees. In fact, if you have the
turtles indoors you should probably take the heater out altogether. Unless their
water temperature drops below 60 degrees, they can regulate their heat just by
swimming or basking -- and the risk of them getting burned on the heater is
greater than the value of heating the water. SO .... just unplug the heater and
see how they respond over the next 7 days>
Thanks
<Yer Welcome, Darrel>
Silicone seal? Turtle sys. 5/29/07
Hi. I have a turtle and I keep her in a clear plastic storage container. In
the summer she has the identical set-up outside. This year I found a crack in
the bottom. I fixed it with General Electric silicone 1 will this harm the
turtle or should I just buy a new one or can you tell me what I should repair it
with
<Silicone sealant is generally safe to use in aquaria and vivaria. If in doubt,
check with manufacturer. Be sure and allow it to cure fully before putting it to
use (usually takes 24 hours or so) and then test with water to see if there are
any leaks. All this said, be sure and provide large enough quarters for your
pet. Turtles need space as they grow, and it may well be that this year a larger
vivarium is on the cards.>
Thanks Sheri.
<Cheers, Neale>
Pig Nosed River Turtle Questions, sys. 4/16/07
Hello guys, I hope you can bear with me and try to answer my questions, I am
really sorry I have so many questions and taking up your precious time. Really
appreciate your help and time and efforts! Thank you in advance!
My pig nose turtle has been really restless for the past month, swimming from
one end to the other in the tank and flapping water furiously but stopped once I
go over or pat it on its head. Last time it (I am still not sure of its gender,
I know a long tail and long nails at front flippers should indicate a ‘he’ but I
am not sure how long exactly is considered long enough.) used to calm down after
I fed it but food doesn’t work anymore so I really don’t know what my turtle is
asking for now. I have seen similar questions posted in the forum but the
replies did not directly explain this behaviour. I have varied the diet but it
didn’t help. I have kept the turtle for years and this hasn’t happened before.
There’s no hiding place for my turtle and I will try to get one because it’s
difficult to find a cave-like structure big and light enough for the glass tank.
My turtle is about 22cm from head to tail and 17cm in width.. Do you know how
old it is?.
< They grow very slowly and no literature is available on the growth rate of
this turtle.>
When I bought it, I believed it was just a hatchling, no bigger than about 10cm
from head to tail.
And is it also 80F for the water temperature for Pignose turtle?
< That sounds like it is in the range for this species.>
Can you tell me how many Celsius degree is 80F?
<Around 27 C.>
Should the basking area be higher in temperature?
< Generally the basking areas are always higher so the animal can increase its
body temp to fight disease and to aid in digestion.>
And aside from the basking light, do I also need another lamp for the tank?
< You need heat and another lamp to provide the proper lighting spectrum for
vitamin development.>
Are these two kinds of lamps different?
< Usually yes although some lamps can provide both heat and some UV radiation.>
And should I keep the lights on during the day and off at night?
< Yes.>
I also don’t have a basking area for it, because the water level of the tank is
about three quarter full and I have no idea how to build a basking area so high
above the water. If I keep the water level lower, will it deprive my turtle in
terms of swimming space?
< Yes try and build a shelf on which the turtle can get out on. ZooMed makes a
Turtle Dock for just such a situation but it is not big enough for a turtle like
yours.>
If I put it out in a tub for basking, is half an hour enough?
< Only the turtle itself knows how long it needs to bask.>
It doesn’t really get a lot of direct sunlight because I stay in a flat and have
no garden or porches or anything in kind.
Do I need to add a bit of water in the tub?
< This is a very aquatic turtle that in the wild would spend hours swimming
around in a big river. If you are going to confine it to a tube then I would
still and try to provide as much swimming are as possible.>
So sorry I have so many questions. I hope you can answer to them all. So sorry
to take up so much of your time and efforts, really appreciate any help given!..
Thank you soo soo much!
Lost and frantic owner, Jaz Singapore
< This is a very rare turtle and I believe on some CITES lists too. Very scarce
and very expensive in the U.S. The cool thing about these turtles is they look
and act like ocean sea turtles but are found in fresh water instead. They get
pretty big for a pet turtle. The shell can get up to almost 20 inches and they
can weigh up to 35 lbs. There is very little known about these turtles and
literature is scarce. Since they get soo big and are very aquatic I would try
and give them as much swimming space as possible. They may come out to bask
occasionally but I don't think they will use a basking spot very often. Some
people in the US that are fortunate enough to have this turtle have told me that
they are totally aquatic and don't require a basking spot. But I would still
provide UVB and UVA over the basking site to cover my bases. The basking site
should still be around 85 to 90 F. The water temp should be around 80 F. The
diet may need to be modified for minerals that it may not be getting. Try adding
a few vitamins to the food to see if that helps settle him down.-Chuck>
Basking Light For Turtle - 4/8/07
Hi, I have a 1 and a half inch long yellow bellied slider. We have a 60 watt
basking spot lamp. I don't know if it's UVA or UVB. Anyway, how long do I keep
it on? How does he sleep if it's on all night? Please get back to me ASAP.
Thank-you, Emily
< You should have a lamp for heat. It should heat the basking site up to at
least 85 F. The other lamp should provide both UVB and UVA. Check the writing on
the lamp and look it up on the internet to see what you got. They should both be
on during normal daylight hours, about 10-12 hours every day.-Chuck>
Worms In A Turtle Tank. Was: Changing Water In A Turtle Tank, The Easy Way
2/23/07
Thank you! I love the No Spill Clean 'N Fill I did my first full water
change in her new (used) 55 gal tank (I was wondering how I could possibly do it
regularly) it was great. And I've been feeding Stephanie in a separate container
to keep her tank clear - but now I've found some very tiny thin white worms in
her tank. I've noticed these before when there was sediment at the bottom of her
tank - I thought it was from uneaten food. Since I haven't put any food in
her tank I assume it's from a bowel movement. I had a sample tested and was told
she doesn't have any parasites. Have you seen this before?
Any ideas? Helen
< These could be worms from the sand or plants. They will not hurt your turtle.
If they are a bother then treat the tank with Fluke-Tabs. I am glad the water
change system is working.-Chuck>
Changing Water In A Turtle Tank, The Easy Way - 02/11/2007
Thanks for your help in the past, I have a new issue I need to discuss. I'm
getting sick and tired of all my turtle maintenance and frankly I haven't read
any solid pointers on handling all of the water for changes etc. If I empty half
of my tank every week (55 gal. approx. 2/3 full) that's about 12 gals, how do
people do it? I fill 6 one gallon jugs w/ water and let them sit overnight to
come up to room temp. Then I siphon the turtle water into a large container (it
takes to trips) and dump it into a utility sink then dump the 6 gallons of water
in, after I've rinsed out the filter media. And finally refill the 6 jugs to
leave overnight and dump it in the next morning. Do you have any advice for me?
Also, I'm thinking of using my old tank for feeding only, how does that work? Do
I have to change all the water and bring it up to temp every day? Thanks, Helen
<Go to DrsFosterSmith.com and order a Python No Spill Clean 'N Fill system.
Measure the distance between the aquarium and the utility sink. They come in
lengths up to 100 feet but you can always join two lengths together to make it
longer if you have to. Turn off all the power to the turtle tank. Attach the
hose to the faucet at the sink and set it to drain. Vacuum all the water out of
the tank and vacuum the substrate while you are at it. When the tank is dry you
can set the water temperature at the sink for lukewarm and then set up the
python to fill the aquarium back up to the desired level. Add water conditioner
as you are adding water to remove any chlorine or chloramines in the water. Then
turn the power back on and check the electronics. An aquarium filter is very
helpful to keep the tank looking good in between water changes. Place you turtle
in a wide container with some lukewarm water. Feed your turtle until his eating
starts to slow down. He is getting full so don't force any more food on him.
They can die from over eating. Usually when they eat they will soon defecate in
this container to make room for the new food. Just dump out the water. Do this
three times a week.-Chuck>
Turtle Dock - 02/09/2007
I am making a turtle dock out of PVC and plexi-glass. What glues do your
recommend? Would PVC cement ( Oatey's brand) be ok?
<I would use this between the PVC pipe itself and some Silastic ("Silicone") to
adhere the Plexi to the top>
Also, what is the difference
between silicone adhesive and silicone sealant?
<These are identical>
I have heard many different
things, and I do not want to kill the turtles.
Thanks for your help,
Katherine
<Just look for, buy one that states it is 100% Silicone... no additives (some
have mildewcides for tub, window applications). Bob Fenner>
Via Aqua Filters
Hi
This is a stupid question but I just moved into a house and the previous tenant had 2 turtles in a tank he said he would come back in a few days
and pick the turtles up and never did. I don't know any thing about filters or how
to keep marine life in general! Any way the water is all dirty so I figured the filter and tank needs
cleaning. The tank has a Via Aqua filter but I have no Idea where to begin and If I take It apart water just flows out. I have been to all my
local pet stores etc and no one know of these filters. I need to do some thing I feel
cruel keeping these turtles in the tank like that.
How do I go about Cleaning these filters?
<Mmm, easy enough... disassemble, rinse... sometimes renew activated carbon to rid the smell of those stinky turtles... Please see here:
http://www.commodityaxis.com/ResourceData.aspx?id=21 or contact Commodity Axis for more information re their canister filters. Bob Fenner>Turtles Need The Right Light 1/3/07
Hi , I need some help about the set-up of terrapin tank. From this website
and several others , I found out that basking spot is needed for terrapin but
currently I didn't have any UVB or UVA light installed. I recently have 3 small
terrapin in a rather small tank, approximately 25cm by 40cm, and I wanted to ask
whether is UVB and UVA really necessary ?
< Absolutely! This lighting prevents shell problems and helps the turtle develop
normally.>
Because from some other website , they say that placing your tank near natural
sunlight is sufficient.
<UVB and UVA is somewhat filtered out by glass. To make sure they get what they
need it is best to actually purchase the correct lighting they require.>
My question is, is it true that by placing the tank at natural sun light
sufficient for the terrapin ?
<Depends on many factors. Duration and intensity of the light are the big ones.
The sun moves through out the year. What may work today may not work in a few
weeks when then sun changes its angles for the seasons.>
If it is sufficient, should the tank be placed under direct sunlight or just a
spot whereby there is sun light? I hope you do get what I mean because my
command of English isn't very good.
< The hours off illumination should match the outdoor daylight hours. Longer in
the summer and shorter in the winter. If you keep you turtles indoors where it
is warm and limit there basking hours to the short winter time exposures they
will have problems. Turtle can live for 40+ years with proper care. I would
recommend that you invest the small sum required to give these little guys a
chance at a long health life.>
Also like several of the people here , I have 1 terrapin that's less active and
closes its eyes for a longer duration compared to the other 2 turtles.
When I hold it , it will open its eyes and clearly its not swollen and look
visually infection free. It mixes around with the other 2 terrapins and also
eats normally. Is it ok ?
< When I pick up a healthy turtle, it should retract into its shell for a moment
and then extend its legs and attempt to get away. Staying retracted in its shell
for an extended time does not sound healthy.>
Is my tank too small for them? They are about 3 cm (1"+) in length?
< Your tank is fine for them at the moment, but you will need a bigger tank in
about a year if you follow my recommendations.>
I hope you could reply as soon as possible as I love them a lot and I don't want
them to pass away like their friends and other terrapin I got from those shops.
< Spend a little money to get the right equipment a they will reward you with
years of entertainment.>
Is it true that they recognize their owner in time?
<They are really smart. After awhile they realize who is the one feeding them
and soon they will be begging every time they see you.-Chuck>
African Side Neck Turtle Care 12/31/06
Greetings, I recently found myself in possession of a African Side-Necked
Turtle, I was curious as to his/her requirements with temperature, food, UVB
lighting and wet/dry requirements? Also what size enclosure is suggested for
such a animal? I currently have him housed in a 15 gal. @ 85-86 degrees, I feed
him HBH turtle bite, Tetra fauna ReptoTreat Suprema, live crickets and he has a
little floating dock to bask on. He has a 7.0 UVB light and a Whisper power
filter to filter the water. I have searched for care sheets or information on
the web, but haven't had any specific luck finding the information. Just
tid-bits here and there. Best, Steve
< These are very hardy little turtles that come from muddy areas in East Africa.
They get about 8 inches and will need an aquarium or container about 30 to 40
gallons when an adult. They need a basking area that gets about 85 to 90 F.
Since they come from a warm climate they need to have their water heated to the
mid 70's F. They eat anything. Older turtles should get lots of vegetable matter
like kale and spinach. They are best kept by themselves. They tame down pretty
well over time. Be careful because the long neck can reach around and cause a
nasty bite.-Chuck>
Wise Parent Needs Turtle Knowledge 12/17/06
I want to buy a turtle for my daughter. However I want one that will stay
fairly small. Are there any breeds that make fairly good pets and stay under 6
inches at full growth?
Also what supplies will I need to purchase up front to provide good care for a
turtle?
Thanks Abby Michl
< First let me compliment you on checking in BEFORE you buy the turtle. Too many
times we get questions on turtle after they buy them. Check out painted turtles.
They don't get as big as red eared sliders, and only get about 7 inches long.
Red eared turtles get aggressive too. A painted turtle will go well in a 40
gallon aquarium that is half filled with water. They need to come out of the
water and bask to get the proper lighting and warmth to digest their food and
develop vitamins. They do well on a diet of commercial aquatic turtle pellets,
insects ,worms and green vegetables. Here is the check list:
1) 40 gallon aquarium for one adult turtle
2) Hood/Top with fluorescent fixture to keep critters out.
3) Porcelain Clamp light fixture to provide a heated basking spot
4) UVB fluorescent light to light up the aquarium and provide the right light
wave lengths
5) Basking Spot Lamp to provide heat for the basking site. Needs to be at least
85 F.
6) Water conditioner to remove chlorine from the water.
7) Water filter to keep the aquarium water clean
8) Basking site
9) Thermometer
10) Aquatic turtle food
11) Hand sanitizers
Turtles can carry bacteria that is harmful to humans. It is very important to
wash your hands and or sanitize them after handling turtles or cleaning the
cage. If this sounds like a lot of money and equipment just think that this
turtle may live for another 20 to 30 years! There is a very good book on water
turtles titled " The Proper Care and Maintenance of Water Turtles" by Phillipe
De Vosjoli. ZooMed distributes this book along with almost all of the items you
will need.-Chuck>
Canister filter problems with air locks on turtle tank 12/15/06
I'm in the process of setting up a 280 gallon turtle tank, in an aquarium
that used to be just fish. All was going well until I dropped the water level
about 9" below the top of the tank, tried to restart my Fluval FX5 canister
filter, and discovered that it is not strong enough to overcome the airlock.
<Ah, yes... actually the "draw" or vacuum is problematical here... Like most
canister filters, this ones pump is intended to "push", not pull...>
For the time being I am pushing water into the Fluval with an Iwaki
pump, but it is very noisy and of course the Fluval was not designed for such
use.
<Yes... and quite dangerous... could easily "pop" open the canister... flood
your floor... I would remove this pump, not use it>
What do people usually do to overcome this problem?
Frank.
<Mmm, many folks use internal filters with turtles... there are powered and
air-driven types you could use... do ask your LFS dealer (fish stores) what they
have, suggest here. These types of filters require about as regular... weekly,
cleaning as a canister. Bob Fenner>
46G Bowfront for Turtle? 11/23/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Is there such a thing in all the world as a 46 gal bowfront screen mesh top for
a turtle tank??
<No, you would have to custom make something like that. I don't think a
bowfront is the best tank for a turtle. It needs a longer footprint for
swimming room, not taller. A 55g would be much better & you can find screen
tops for them. ~PP>
River Tank 10-27-06
Hi Kathy, It's Pufferpunk (not Pufferpink but that does sound kinda
funny...)
Thanks so much for the reply. I'm a new turtle owner (just a few months), she
is an adult painted turtle. Can you explain about or send a link about the
river-tank system you mention? I have a huge canister filter but it does,
eventually, clog with plant bits.
<Here are a couple of pics of the 55g river tank kit I have:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Pufferpunk/TurtleRiverTank.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Pufferpunk/DwarfAfricanBullfrogHome.jpg
I'm sorry I don't have better pics. I think if you really search, these are
still being sold somewhere... There's a powerhead under the water fall, that
draws all the water through the gravel that's built up on the land side. It
goes over a water fall & through a river, back into the water 1/2 of the
tank. It's pretty cool. ~PP>
Thanks again, Kathy
Thanks so much for the reply. I'm a new turtle owner (just a few months),
she is an adult painted turtle. Can you explain about or send a link about
the river-tank system you mention? I have a huge canister filter but it
does, eventually, clog with plant bits.
Thanks again, Kathy
Turtle Surviving In the Outdoor Koi Pond 10/5/06
My wife found a tiny baby turtle in our yard in the spring, we named him Sal
Manilla. We constructed an enclosure in the shallow end of our koi pond, about
12" wide by 24" long, and about 8" deep. He's been there all summer, and grown
to around 2 inches in size on a diet of turtle pellets, koi pellets, blood worms
and brine shrimp. We had considered bringing him indoors for the winter, but now
are wondering if it might be better for him if we released him into the pond.
The pond is about 3 feet deep, 3000 gallons, and our koi survive the winter well
there.
Are concerns are due to cold winter (we can easily expect long stretches where
it will remain below freezing, and occasional overnight temps as low as 0
degrees F), his young age, and in some small part, also concerned he might
burrow into the gravel bottom and tear the lining of the pond.
Option 2 is a 5 gal aquarium. Do you think our turtle Sal has a decent chance of
surviving the winter outdoors in Rhode Island? After all, he was born wild...
You opinion would be greatly appreciated. Dave
< I would keep him indoors. The natural pond is made of a soil/clay bottom. If
the water gets too cold then he could bury deeper in the mud and increase the
insulation. Gravel is too porous and allows the cold water all the way through
to the bottom liner an offers no insulation.-Chuck>
Calcium Build Up On Shell 9/8/06
I've been doing my research and trying to get specific help for such a
case. My problem is: I have very hard water which does have a mineral build
up around my tanks glass as the water evaporates. I've had my two baby
turtles for around 2 months now. One is growing much larger than the
other it has nearly doubled the others size already) and has started
shedding. Along with the rapid growth and shedding it's shell has gone from
a nice green to a grey/green all over...his skin is nice and green still,
but I don't like the color of his shell. Now, I know that this is probably
due to the minerals in my water, but how can I get this under control before
they turn completely white? *smiles* And btw, the smaller of the two is also
starting to show signs of a greyish shell. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Mitch
< The only effective long term solution is to demineralize the water with a
very good R/O (Reverse Osmosis) unit. Figure out how much water you need per
week and buy a unit that at least will double it. Get one that has a
back flushing valve to prolong the membranes life. Lots of articles/FAQs on
R/O on the WWM site. Mix the R/O water with 25% tap water. The turtles need
some calcium in their water.-Chuck>
Canister Filter For Turtle Tank - 09/07/06
Hello Bob, I just found your site on questions and answers today while
doing some research on canister filter systems. My set up is for 2 red
eared sliders about 15 years old, 7 and 8 (inches approx.) in length. The
tank (50 gal) is about 80 % full of water. I have attached a ramp and a
flat dry area near the water line with ledgers and aquarium silicone (very
basic and not pleasing to look at but you can't have stuff the turtles can
fit into their mouths). I had an old AquaClear outside power filter hanging
off the back but it recently got dropped during a cleaning. It was doing a
fine job of keeping the water clear with the sponge and carbon but each time
the power went off it would get hot and stop. Luckily it never burned
out. I
probably should have done more research but as you know, you can't leave a
turtle tank unfiltered. Stinky! I would do complete water changes every 7
to 10 days to keep the glass clear and remove the turds. I purchased a
Odyssea CFs 4 and so far no problems. I have been doing research (belated I
know) on this product because I had not heard of it before. I worked for a
local pet store 20 plus years ago and it was not around then. Info that I
have seen suggests that the o rings dry quickly and the on off valves where
the hoses attach to the canister are not up to par (don't last too long leak
wise and break easily). It can still be returned for an exchange. You seem
to prefer the Eheim in the info that I have read. Would you suggest going
that route?
< This is a new filter that has had mixed reviews. It is cheap, somewhat
powerful and a little noisy. I think if your tubing is fairly straight then
there is less of an issue with the valves. With sharp bends on the tubing,
the valves can't hold the hoses intact and this stress and it creates cracks
and leaks. Eheim has been around for many years. Their filters are expensive
and not as powerful but they are well made and will last a very long time.>
Also the outlet part of the Odyssea seems to create a lot of foam. They seem
to be afraid of the foam. The falls from the AquaClear did not make
foam. I could lower the outlet into the water because the turtles do not
require aeration like fish, just filtration. Also would a sterilizer be a
good investment?
< Not needed for a turtle tank.-Chuck>
Thanks you for any information you might have to give me. Alethea
Small Soft Shell Turtle 8/30/06
Hi I have a soft shell turtle I have had it for nearly a year now and
its still about 5cm long is this normal?
< Soft shell turtle actually require some warmth. Your turtle should be close to
twice that size. Get a heater for the tank and set at 75 to 80 F. Feed foods
that are high in protein like fish, insects and worms.-Chuck>
Turtles Survival In Pond 8/19/06
Thanks. I have one more question. My friend has a pond at his home and its
in the woods a bit and its a natural pond with leaves, mud, fish, and a few
other sliders and other species of turtle. This pond is not heated and is over
6 feet deep in places. Could my turtles live in this pond year round with out
being fed by people and having to get fish and bugs themselves? I have released
a red eared slider in this pond a few years ago before I had any info
about if I could release or not without it dying. Also one of my turtles is a
6" red eared slider and the other is a small other species of turtle that looks
like the slider but has no red on its neck. What kind of turtle is it and can
this kind of turtle be released into this pond? Thanks for your time and your
help is very appreciated.
< Depending on where you live in the U.S., the red eared slider could be found
there naturally. I would not release any turtle into an area once it has been
established in captivity. In this friend's pond the turtle is subject to attack
by predators like raccoons. If your turtle is sick then it could make other
turtles sick too. This turtle could possibly cross breed with other turtles. If
you no longer want your turtle then offer it to a friend, school or pet shop
instead of turning it loose on the environment. There is a big problem with red
eared sliders competing with native turtles. Send a photo of the other turtle
for a species ID.-Chuck>
New Yellow Bellied Slider Turtle - 08/12/06
Hi. I found a turtle in my front yard the other day and I have some
questions. I read the FAQ's and found a lot of useful info, but I need to know
if I put Reptisafe in along with the little turtle-shape blocks? Or just one at
a time?
< The Reptisafe is a water conditioner that removes chlorine and some harmful
minerals. The Dr Turtle Sulpha Block adds sulfur to the water to inhibit
bacteria and acidify the water.> <<Can be mixed. RMF>>
Also, she swims and swims against the glass. Is this normal? Is she freaking
out? She was in a pond at one time as there is algae on her shell. I only have a
10 gal tank for now.
< Your new turtle is accustomed to being out in the open with lots of swimming
room. Now he is confined to a little 10 gallon tank and needs time to slowly get
use to his smaller tank.>
Thanks for the help and I do enjoy your site. Are you guys veterinarians or just
have a lot of experience? Sara
< I am a long time amateur aquarist/herpetologist with some experience and lots
of good books to look things up.-Chuck>
Hibernating Turtles 8/12/06
Hello. I have 2 red eared sliders and I have them outside in a pond.
They have plenty of basking space and shady places. I have been keeping them in
the pond for a few summers now and have been bringing them inside during the
winter. I was wondering if it is possible to keep them outside during the
winter
and if so do I need mud in the bottom or what should I do. Thank you
<Hibernating turtles can be somewhat challenging. First your turtles must be in
good health. Sick turtles do not usually survive a season of hibernation.
Secondly, is make sure they are well fed. They must have enough fat reserves to
last them through the winter. Do not feed them in the late fall when things have
already cooled off. The food will rot in their gut and cause problems. Depending
on where you live the pond needs to be fairly deep so that it doesn't freeze
solid. In the south a couple of feet may be fine. Deeper the farther north you
go. They need mud to bury themselves and to help insolate them. This year many
turtles came out of hibernation early because of an unusually warm winter and
early spring. Sudden cold fronts caught them already out and many turtles got
sick with respiratory infections.-Chuck>
Chinese Soft Shell Turtle in a Pond? 6/9/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a female Chinese soft shell turtle that I love dearly. I am moving into
my boyfriend's house and he doesn't want her. :(
<Guess you love the boyfriend more?>
I don't want to give her up, so I am trying to find a compromise to keep her
with me. I live in the UK, so its pretty warm here at the minute, but as you
know the winters can be bitter. So, my boyfriend has a pond, with nothing in it.
I was wondering if I could build an enclosure that was kept at a constant
temperature to house her in? I'm a designer and he is an electrician - I'm sure
we could come up with something!
Do you think so long as the temperature was controlled and the water filtered
she'd be ok? Are there any other considerations we should take into account?
<Would work but very expensive to heat, IMO. ~PP>
Thanks guys, I look forward to hearing from you
Rare Wood Turtle Needs Proper TLC - 06/07/2006
Hello Crew,
I just saw Brandon Heuyard's turtle pix & post of 4-11-2006 post . It is a
woodland turtle,...rare, possibly threatened. It is semi
aquatic, lives near stream & rivers. Needs a lot of good care, fresh water for
soak immersion which must be changed daily suggest & right
after defecation, food is berries fruit, earth worms, fresh lean beef cut up
small. If one wants to keep one, I suggest reading up on them, food, habitat & very important hibernation requirement for continued well
being. Not a child's fun pet , but a serious custody only. I do not
know how to reach & am not figure out how to access forum. Please post & you
may share email address with him. Ellen
< eplanner(AT)ix(DOT)netcom(DOT)com <<Replace the (AT) with @ and the (DOT)s
with . - just trying to avoid someone getting spammed. -Sabrina>>>
< Thank you for your concern and we will post on the site for all to
read.-Chuck>
Old Box Turtle 5/26/06
My name is Stacy I am 14.
Hi Stacey, Pufferpunk here.>
My sisters boyfriend found this box turtle on the side of the road on a rainy
day. When he got home he gave me the turtle. I noticed that my turtle has 2
holes in her shell.
<This is common with older turtles. Had some shell damage in the past but
should be fine & be able to live a long life with this.>
On his right back leg that he only has 1 nail on it and the other has all 3.
<Yes, you have a 3-toed box turtle with 1 deformed foot. No issues there.>
I was wondering what I could do to fix everything that's wrong with her.
<Nothing to fix. Just things that happen to a turtle in the wild. Be sure to
give it at least a 20 gallon tank, with a shelter on one side (an overturned box
with the side cut out will do & a water bowl large enough for it to bathe in on
the other side. Be sure to change the water daily, or it will be drinking poop
water. Mulch is a great substrate for them. It's cheap & you can buy large
bags even at most gas stations during gardening season. Just make sure not to
use cedar, it poisonous! Change every 2 weeks & hand clean any poop daily (most
will be in the water). You will also need a reflector lamp for warmth.
Food: dark green veggies (no iceberg lettuce--mostly water), any fruits. Frozen
mixed veggies (defrosted 1st, of course) work well. So do fruit cocktail, well
rinsed, for quick feedings. They love red foods. Canned dog food or dry soaked
in water. Crickets & earthworms (found in wild-box turtles tummies when
dissected), are a favorite treat. Dust the food with reptile vitamins (be sure
they have calcium in there, for the shell).
If kept properly, a box turtle can live over 30 years! ~PP>
Thanks a lot, Stacy Cline
Turtle Toys - 05/17/2006
I was wondering if you guys have any ideas for turtle toys. Our 2 turtles (Tank and Diesel) get bored. I was wondering if there were any toys made for
turtles or any thing that could be turned into a toy. Thanks, Lisa
< Turtles are always interested in food. I would recommend that you vary their
diet with live earthworms, crickets, mealworms and kingworms. If they are
somewhat larger you could add vegetable matter like spinach and kale. Zoo Med
has recently come out with a floating turtle log. It is a hollow floating log
that turtles can climb out on as well as go inside to feed. I am confident they
will love it.-Chuck>
New Birthday Turtle Questions 5/9/06
Hi! My friends just recently bought me a turtle for my birthday and I had a
couple of questions. First: They set up the tank for me and automatically put
the turtle in the water… is this bad?
< No turtle are used to being put directly into water.>
Should they have let the water settle?
< No, not needed as with fish.>
Second: The heater is lying on its side in the water. I have read that heating
rocks are not good for turtles. I was wondering if the turtle is able to climb
on it, will he burn himself?
<Pull the heating rock and replace it with a good basking with a proper light
bulb that will heat the area up at least 85 F and provide the required UVA and
UVB radiation.>
Should I rig it up differently?
< Yes as described above.>
Third: I have read through your website and wanted to know if when changing the
water, how exactly should I do this? Should I let that settle for a couple of
days before putting it in? What is the best way to go about this?
< Siphon or pour the water out of the tank. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with a good
water conditioner and fill up the bucket and then pour it in the tank.>
I want to do this the safest way possible for my turtle… please help!
A seriously concerned turtle parent!
< Turtles are not as touchy about their water as fish are. Just add the water
conditioner and pour it in.-Chuck>
Smelly Turtle Tank - 04/04/2006
Hello all, I tried searching your site and while I found people with
somewhat similar problems, none seemed quite so severe as mine (so I
apologize if this is a repeat
question). I have two Mississippi map turtles in what I seem to recall is a
20 gallon tank. The turtles are about fourish inches long (one slightly
larger). The
problem is this: I am having to clean the tank (and by clean I don't mean a
partial or complete water change, I mean empty the entire thing out and
scrub it
down) two to three times a week because the water gets very cloudy and they
start to stink horribly. I understand these type of turtles are relatively
high
maintenance, but I did not think they would be nearly this bad. The worst
time I cleaned them in the afternoon and literally that evening (say a
turnover
of four-five hours) the water was clouding already. Is this normal (I really
don't feel it is)? And if not, what am I doing wrong? Just a quick note, I
have
not changed what I feed them at all, I have started feeding them a little
more than I used to -3 times a day about 3ish pinches of ZooMed aquatic
turtles food-
(because they splash around at the top of the tank and eat like they are
starved each time I put food in). Water temps and such have remained
constant. I've had
them for nearly 1 1/2 years and this is the first time I've experienced such
a problem. Sorry for the long e-mail, just trying to get you as much info
as
possible. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
<As turtles get older they need more vegetable matter in their diets. If you
haven't already, switch to the adult turtle formula instead of the hatchling
formula. I suspect that they are passing much of this protein into the water
causing the ammonia spike. Try this, feed your turtles as much as they will
eat. In an hour then vacuum out all the water with a Python Water Changer
and replace it with fresh water. This will remove any uneaten food as well
as any new fecal matter. This should keep things cleaner for a longer time
period. A 20 gallon tank is small for two turtles of this size. Try to up
grade to a bigger tank with greater surface area.-Chuck>
Re: Tank Space For Turtles - 04/04/2006
Just a quick follow up question (the original should be included, so I hope
there is no confusion there).
About what size tank would you recommend for these two turtles (Mississippi map
about four inches)? And for
about how long would a bigger tank be ok for them (in other words, should I just
break down and buy a huge tank now)? Thanks so much for all your help.
< A rule of thumb that Zoo Med Labs recommends is the tank should be at least 5
times the length of the turtle. One four inch turtle needs 20 inches or
approximately a twenty gallon tank. Two turtles should have a 40 gallon tank.
Keep in mind that a female will get up to 10 inches while a male will get about
half that size. Two adult females need a 100 gallon tank while two males would
need a 50 gallon. Consider placing them outdoors during the summer.-Chuck>
Poor Painted Turtles - 03/22/06
I have 2 red eared sliders that I've been raising for about a year now and
their doing awesome but now my sister brought to me her 2 painted turtles
she got this summer and they have not grown at all! Their probably the size
of a quarter still. She never had a light or warm water or anything for them
and now I have to take care of them. I have no clue what to do with them and
I feel bad for them! All I have right now is one cage, so I put them in with
my red eared sliders. They're probably 3-4 inches and their a male and
female but I don't think their even one yet? Can they reproduce?
< Probably not until next year.>
Is it okay for the baby painted turtles to be in the tank with them?
< No, red eared sliders are very aggressive turtles and will hog all the food
and intimidate the smaller turtles to the point to they will not eat.>
What should I do to help them grow?
< Start treating them like you RES's when they were small and give them the TLC
they deserve.>
When I pick them up I can actually feel their legs moving through the center of
their shell on the bottom in the center. I think their not in good shape? What
can I do? Help me please!
< Start by giving them their own tank. Set up a basking site that gets at least
85 to 90 F. Start to give them ZooMed Aquatic Turtle food for hatchlings along
with some small washed earthworms. Basking and proper diet with start to harden
the shell and get them back on track.-Chuck>
Cleaning the Turtle Tank. - 02/16/2006
Chuck, Thank you for your response. We have done 100% water change (I'm
going
to hate my water bill this month) twice since I sent you the below
email. Within 2-3 days, we can't see the other side of this tank.
I did notice when I cleaned it, in the corners and by his heater and
dock there were orange/red particles. I've never seen or heard of an
orange algae. Also, describing it as "cloudy" is a bit misleading. His
water looks kind of like LA smog - a bit of a yellow/orange tinge to it.
Below you mention feeding him. We have been feeding him the same diet
and the same amount of food. Nothing has changed. We also scoop out
any left over food after about an hour. We also bought a brand new Fluval 4
filter and changed the submersible filter. I went to the pet store to look at
some algae kill products, but I don't want to hurt my turtle. Any more
suggestions?
< I don't think it is an algae problem. He is what I think is going on. Is your
turtle food and orange color? I am thinking that when the turtle bites into the
food it breaks down into fine dust like particles. This dust settles out in the
corners of the tank with little or no current. The dust starts to decompose and
feeds the algae and clouds the tank. Probably with the food particles. Instead
of feeding him the same food I would suggest a change in diet. For one week try
mealworms, kingworms, and earthworms and see if the tank clears up. If it does
then switch another brand of turtle food and continue to supplement his diet
with the occasional worms.-Chuck>
Keeping Turtles In The Dark 2/13/06
I know I am supposed to get a UVA/UVB light and a heat lamp for the basking
area, but at night when I go to sleep, should I turn off both, or just the
UVA/UVB light?
< Turn off all the lights at night.>
Also, I have been given advice to get a water heater that transfers heat from a
pad underneath the tank. Will that work ok, or should I put the heat source
directly in the water?
<Follow the manufacturers directions and use the product as it is intended. If
the pad is not intended for use under an aquarium then do not use it.>
One more question. As far as thermometers go, can I stick them on the inside of
the glass tank, or will that give me an inaccurate reading of the real
temperature of the water and the air?
< Follow the directions on the package of the thermometer for best
results.-Chuck> thinks Dan
Wormy Turtle Tank 2/13/06
Hi guys, I am lately finding very tiny red worms in the water when I clean
the
habitat of my RES? Is this a parasite? What should I do? Thanks, Therese
< Could be a parasite. Clean the tank and treat with Fluke-Tabs. This will kill
any worms in the water. If you still find worms then take a fecal sample to a
vet for analysis and further treatment if needed.-Chuck>
Turtle Care 02/12/06
Thank you so much that was really quick and great advise I have some more
questions, my turtles are now in a 20 gallon tank with a basking light and a UVB
light they are being fed ZooMed's pellets and meal worms I gave them tomatoes
today and they like them a lot I hope that was ok. They have a turtle dock in
there and an alligator that makes bubbles and some other decorations. Am I
doing everything right? Is there anything I can do better?
<Hi, you did not mention the type of filtration you are using or your
maintenance regime, but other than it sounds like you are in the right track,
they will need a larger tank in time. Best Regards, Gage>
Smelly Cloudy Turtle Tank 2/10/06
Hello, I have a 100 gallon tank with a Fluval 400 underneath it and I also
have a submersible inside the tank. It is complete with heater, basking
dock, basking light and fluorescent lighting as well. We've had Wilo for over 9
years now and we have noticed some changes in
his tank. It started to get very cloudy. We did a partial water change and
within a couple days, it was cloudy again. So, we did a complete
change of the water the weekend before last and within a few days, the tank
turned cloudy. Now we are used to the tank clouding up a bit
when we change the water, but it is never this bad and the cloudiness goes away
in a couple of days. This wasn't getting better, so we went
to the pet store and bought some water treatments, but that didn't work. So,
last weekend we took everything out (new turtle dock, new rocks, new
filter). I came home last night AND THE TANK WAS CLOUDY. It is driving us nuts.
So, since we have changed out everything inside the tank but the turtle
himself, could it be the turtle? Is there some kind of disease that would make
them smell bad and possibly cloud up his water?
He is a very healthy turtle and doesn't seem sick, but it's not like he can tell
me if he is or not. As advanced as Wilo (he is like a dog in a
shell) is for a turtle, he isn't all that. :-)
Can you help or are we being dumb? Thanks, Christine
< There are three things you need a filter to do. One is called mechanical
filtration. This is the removal of large visual particles you see in the water.
Next is chemical filtration. This is the use or reagents and resins to remove
undesirable chemicals in the water. The third and most important thing is the
biological filtration. This is a process of establishing the microbes needed to
break down smelly cloudy ammonia into less smelly nitrites and then finally
nitrates. First feed you turtle three to four times a week. Feed him until he is
full. After a half hour, siphon out all the left over food and any waste. This
will remove the largest part of the problem. Leftover food and fecal matter will
pollute a tank very quickly. Once a week vacuum the gravel while doing a 50%
water change. Clean the Fluval once every two weeks. Add carbon to the filter to
improve water quality. On the weeks you don't clean the Fluval you should clean
the submersible. If you clean everything all at once you will lose the good
bacteria needed to break down the waste. Bio-Spira from Marineland will put the
bacteria back in and help take care of the problem.-Chuck>
Turtle Questions - 2/4/2006
Do turtles need a shaded spot?
<They should have an area under the water out of the direct light. On land they
do not need one.>
I just bought a 29gal long tank, 2 small 1" RES's, have about 9"s of water (had
them with little water before) and a large floating a whisper filter up to 40gal
filter, floating large island and a night bulb and day bulb from Wal-Mart. Do
turtles need no light at all sometimes?
< They should have between 10 to 12 hours of darkness to reflect a normal day.>
Should I use the night bulb at night and day bulb in the day?
< The daytime bulb should contain UVA and UVB. There is no need for the night
time bulb.>
Should there be no light sometimes?
< Ten to twelve hours of darkness will allow them to get the rest they need.>
How soon (sidewise I guess) should you feed turtles small fish?
< Small turtles need a bigger percentage of protein than older turtles. I would
recommend that you stay away from the feeder fish and go with a commercial
turtle diet supplemented with washed earthworms, mealworms , crickets and
kingworms.>
What type of fish do they eat?
< In the wild they will eat whatever fish they can catch.>
Does it matter? I took all the rocks out now, now they have a lot of room to
swim?
They will probably appreciate the additional space.>
I will be buying another small island, so the 2 can bask in there own spot, good
idea?
<Yes if they will use it that way. Normally they go to which ever spot is the
warmest.>
What is the best temp? I've herd from 74-80 F?
< The basking spot should be at least 85 to 90 F. The water can be at room
temperature.-Chuck>
Thanks, Alex L
Turtle Care 2/7/06
Thank you so much that was really quick and great advise. I have some more
questions, my turtles are now in a 20 gallon tank with a basking light and a UVB
light they are being fed zoo meds pellets and meal worms. I gave them tomatoes
today and they like them a lot. I hope that was ok. They have a turtle dock in
there and a alligator that makes bubbles and some other decorations in there. Am
I doing everything right? Is there anything I can do better?
<As you turtle gets older he will need more vegetable matter,-Chuck>
Python Water Changer For Turtle Tank 1/22/06
Hi there! I have been reading these posts all night, and I am impressed.
This e-mail isn't to ask a question, but rather to suggest a new post. Many of
your readers have asked about keeping the tank clean. I have recently discovered
a little gizmo called 'The Python'. It is my opinion that EVERYONE who has
turtles should get one because they make life a heck of a lot easier. All it is
a tube that hooks to any faucet in your house and the other end goes into your
aquarium. You just switch the settings a bit and it sucks the water out of the
tank and puts in back in...all WITHOUT a pump!!! It is amazing. I have had my
RES for almost 6 years, and she is doing very well and always has. I don't know
why someone didn't suggest this to me earlier because it makes the weekly 30-50%
water changes MUCH MUCH easier. They come in all different lengths so it doesn't
matter how far away your sink is...so go invest...IT IS WAAAAAYYYYY worth
it!!!Melanie
< Aquarists have used these for years and they do work great. Happy to pass this
along to the turtle keepers out there. thanks.-Chuck>
New Turtle Found - 01/09/2006
Hi. I've tried the google search, but I need more detailed help and info,
please. =) I found a tiny baby turtle laying on the ground outside by my car
this morning. He was non-responsive and has been throughout the day. I have
never owned a turtle and I know nothing about them. Although I'm in FL, it's
been really chilly the last couple of days. (Thick sweater weather.) If I'm
cold, I know this tiny creature must be freezing. What can I do to nurse him to
health? He moves slightly if I touch him but he doesn't open his eyes at
all. He doesn't walk or swim, but, he did very briefly open his tiny mouth and
then he promptly shut it. Please help! =)
<Get the turtle in a shallow dish of fresh water. Just enough to cover his
shell. Provide a ramp on to which he can crawl out of the water. At the top of
this ramp provide a plant bulb that is hot enough to heat the spot at the top of
the ramp to 85 F. If the eyes are swollen or inflamed then treat them with Zoo
Med Repti Turtle Eye Drops. When his eyes are open and he starts to move around
you can feed him small washed earthworms or a commercial baby turtle food that
you can get at a local pet shop.-Chuck>
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