http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
Eastern Box
with fungus? 8/13/07
Hi, I've read a lot about shell fungus, but cannot find any pictures
of early stage fungus. My eastern box baby, Yurtle, has some white
between his scutes. This just developed in the past 2 weeks. The white
is dry and powdery, but doesn't rub off when I gently rub his shell with
my fingers. It looks nothing like the fungus pictures I've seen where
whole scutes are coming off, but I can't find any normal eastern box
peeling/shell shedding pictures to compare him with, either.
<The little bit of white at the seams can be so many things -- a fungus,
the beginning of a fungus, possibly bacterial but, believe it or not,
I've seen this under the scute edge turn out to be nothing but a water
spot. Terrapenes are not overly susceptible to fungus by the way -- it's
unusual to find anything but a very superficial case.>
I was going to get him some sulfa solution at the pet store and dip him
as a preventative, but I read online that it is dangerous to dip a young
turtle. I've also found conflicting information online, one site said
that land turtles rarely if ever noticeably peel, but another said young
box turtles noticeably peel. I believe he (or possibly she) is 12-18
months old.
<And I'm not a fan of over-the-counter pet store dip/remedies, either.
In most cases it requires HUGE amounts of the remedy to even approach a
therapeutic dose, so let's start simple: Try swabbing it with Vinegar,
allowing the vinegar to soak in for about 60 seconds and then rinse &
dry it. If it's a topical fungus you'll see a change for the better in
about three days. Search this site (Google box below - click
www.wetwebmedia.com) and search "Darrel" and "fungus" and you'll find
plenty of good advice. Apparently I talk about fungus a lot. Could
explain my social life. Hydrogen Peroxide and Betadine are all simple &
cheap treatments you can try for a few days each to knock back most
potential problems.>
He lives indoors in a 20 long terrarium filled with moss substrate and a
small rock drinking and swimming container, plus a UV light and basking
light that are on 12 hours a day. He is kept 67-70 degrees F at night
and 85-90 degrees during the day.
<Sounds like great care, Christina>
Does he have a fungus, is he peeling, or is something else going on?
Does he need to go to a vet? I've attached pictures, I apologize for the
poor quality, my camera is not the best.
<Fungus & bacteria is a hard thing to "see" in a picture, even a hi-res
one, so I wouldn't worry. Try the home remedies for a few days and let's
see what happens meanwhile, if it is a peel, that will make itself
apparent to us in that same time. Failing these having an effect then I
would say that a quick trip to a qualified Herp Vet would ease your
concerns.>
Christina Haller
<Darrel> |
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Turtle infection sounds
serious – 08/02/07
Hello again,
<hello, Pat>
I am writing to you again about my 5-year old female painted turtle with the
shell infection.
The infection is on her plastron. It is yellow and red. When I touch it, it
feels very soft.
<Not a good sign>
Right now she is in a dry utility tub and is put in water with ZooMed Turtle
Sulfa Dip every day
for 2 hours. She is being fed red peppers, nightcrawlers, cherries, and a
calcium supplement.
She is active and has a healthy appetite. What should I change! Her condition is
getting worse!
<Keeping her dry is a good first step. The next thing to do is to clean the
infected area with hydrogen peroxide and investigate it. This is hard to explain
in this format, but we need to get an idea of how deep the damage runs and if we
can wipe, rub or even scrape off as much of it as possible without damaging the
deeper tissue. What I have done is use an Exacto Knife that has been dipped in
Betadine (iodine/povidone -- any type or brand) to scrape and even cut away as
much of the infected or damage tissue as possible and then trying to clean out
the remaining wound. After that, coat the area in more Betadine. If there's a
little blood oozing out, you can pack it off with gauze or even paper towels.
Every day, clean the area with Peroxide and then coat with Betadine. She'll need
to stay dry during this time, which means it's unlikely she'll eat, but if she's
otherwise healthy this won't be a problem.>
<In reality, Pat, if the infection is deeper than the surface, it may be past
time for home treatment and a trip to an experienced Herp Vet is in order and
possible a course of treatment with Baytril.>
<Best wishes>
<Darrel>
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Turtle Shell Question – 07/24/07
Dear Crew,
<Hiya -- Darrel here>
I have had my baby red eared slider for over a year (Fred, given to me by a
friend), and he seems to be quite happy and well-adjusted.
<Red Eared Sliders are generally happy, easy turtles.>
I keep him in a well-lit 10 gallon tank, with water temperatures usually at
78-80 degrees. Once a day, I feed Fred ZooMed hatchling pellets or Tetrafauna
mini sticks. At every tank cleaning and water change, I make sure to use the
appropriate amount of water purifier and add a D3 supplement. In addition to
this tank, I have recently set up another 10 gal placed directly in front of a
window to provide him with actual sunlight. According to the research I have
done, my setup should be enough to keep him healthy and happy. If there are any
changes you think I need to make, I would love to hear them.
<Just a very few things: His water temp is a little high (70-75 would be better)
and then he can get heat from hauling out of the water and basking. Your feeding
is good, water purifier, if you mean like dechlorinator, isn't necessary so you
can save your money on that.>
<The One thing I'd really mention is that glass filters out a good deal of the
beneficial UV rays from the sun, so make sure the sunlight he gets is DIRECT
somehow. Check the care link below and read about light sources>
When I first got him he had a red spot on the outer edge of his shell (I assume
due to poor previous treatment), but within two months it had gone and left a
missing chunk. He doesn't seem to notice it, and I don't believe its gotten
larger, so I wasn't sure about how worried I should be.
<You shouldn't be worried at all! As long as it's an old condition (and many of
them lose small pieces of shell) it's just no problem at all. -- But with that
said ... and looking at the pics you sent .... I'd have named him ....... NICK!
Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha! Get it? Nick? As in "a nick in the shell?" heh heh
heh>
I'm only 17, and my mom doesn't think it would be worth looking into further, so
this is my only real option. Mostly I would just like to know what caused this
problem and whether or not it could hurt him in the future. Thank you in advance
for your help, and I apologize if there was already information on your site
that I somehow overlooked.
<No apologies necessary, Laura. I gave me the first opportunity this week to
make a bad joke (I'm still chuckling over it) seriously, the nick in the shell
is no biggie -- he looks fine and you're taking good care of him, so I say just
keep up the good work. You've already covered the basics very well, but here's a
recap for you:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
Laura
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Texas Map Turtles and stress – 07/24/07
Hi,
<Hi right back>
It's again with another question about my two little turtles. I was going to
treat the little spots with vinegar first, since I have that readily available.
Well, I put them in two separate containers that are deep enough for them not to
climb out, but still gives them enough room to at least move around. I put a
piece of paper towel in the bottom as the container is some type of plastic and
I thought that might make them more comfortable.
<very thoughtful of you>
Well, they hated it. They panicked and started running (yes, aquatic turtles
know how to haul it when they need to; Whoever said turtles were slow never met
these two:)
<No question! All it takes is to look away for a second and they can be down the
hall, out the door and into the next block.>
Anyways, they even flipped themselves over a couple of times and just seemed too
stressed for me to keep them in that situation. I did get a chance to brush some
vinegar on them and let it soak in just for a few minutes before I put them
back. Is there something else that I should put them in so that they can't flip
themselves over? Is there something I can do to make them less stressed? I
normally feed them in a similar container that is a lot smaller, should I put
them in that?
<You can certainly try that, but in the end it doesn't make that much
difference. They may seem stressed, and I'm sure they are in their own little
turtle ways ... but it's not the kind of stress that will harm them. It's just
different. My advice is to keep doing what you're doing, try a different
container or different technique, but don't let it stress YOU out! THEY .....
lead very cushy and cared-for little lives and if the worst that happens to them
is they flip themselves over .... well .... let's just say that it's better for
them than to have been eaten by a bass. So do what you do and don't let them get
to ya!>
Thanks again!
Sara
<Darrel> |
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Baby turtle identification & care – 07/24/07
Hello,
<Hi there -- Darrel here>
Well my aunt got me a turtle while going fishing.
<I'll take that to mean she brought BACK a turtle from her fishing trip>
It's very small. I think it's a baby or that's just how there species look, but
to the point it just started eating its food today and it's been having this
clear floating stuff on it, and it wont come off.
<Sounds like it might be a fungus, but 'clear floating stuff' is a little vague.
Is it soft, like dead skin or hard, like a film on the shell? Please write back
with a more detailed description>
And what type of items am I suppose to put in there with it? I just don't know
what to do.
<Try this link to get an idea of basic care:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
and try this link to see if you can identify what it looks like:
http://www.xupstart.com/wwm/
Hope this helps>
Texas Map
Turtle Questions 7/19/07
Hi,
<Hiya right back>
First, I just want to thank you all for your site. I wish I had found it
before I got these two, but now that I know you are our there, I will
definitely come back whenever questions arise.
<Thank you -- we're freeway close & open 24 hours!>
I am having a few problems. I got two male Texas Map turtles from a
breeder. I had done a lot of research into their needs prior to getting
them, and you can see their current habitat in one of the pictures. I
chose this type as they are the smallest of the map turtles (males only
reach between 2-4 inches) and are known for their shy disposition. Well,
the breeder had sent me pictures of the remaining males he had left, and
I picked out the two I liked. I was hesitant at first because the one
that seemed very active and walking all around had a spot on his shell,
but the breeder reassured me that he was just shedding. And sure enough,
I discovered that young turtles shed fairly frequently. So I chose that
one and the other one that was of about equal size. They were slightly
larger than a quarter, and have grown a little in the month since I have
gotten them. They were 3-3 1/2 months when I got them, so now they are
4-4 1/2 months.
<Those are a couple of nice looking turtles! Did the breeder tell you
how he was differentiating the sex of hatchlings?>
I set their habitat up in a 28 gallon elliptical aquarium. It has a
basking spot on a turtle dock that gets up to 84 degrees. There is a
Reptofilter that I change frequently and an underwater heater that
maintains the water between 75-78 degrees. The gravel is also sloped so
that they can get partially out. I also put many aquatic plants in
there, which I know may be devoured, but so far they rarely eat them and
prefer to just hang out on them. I also have a light that provides UVB
7% stationed above the portion of their aquarium that is not covered by
glass as I know those rays won't penetrate through them. Their basking
spot is on a timer because I am afraid the lamp itself will get too hot;
they're used to it and I keep it on for at least a 1/2 hour after
they've eaten if it's on off at that time. The UVB light stays on for
about 12 hours a day.
<That's admirable attention to their needs and nothing cries out for
change here. The only things I'd consider are this: Map turtles
generally don't walk around on land the way Sliders, Cooters and others
sometimes do -- they're far more likely to just bask on logs or rocks
than to climb out on a bank, so the next time you rearrange things for
whatever reason, creating a log-like structure that arcs out of and back
into the water might be a bit more natural for them. Second, I'd lower
the water temp about 5 degrees.>
I feed them a large variety. I hand feed them around 3-4 Reptomin baby
pellets mixed with calcium powder at least once a day. I normally feed
them twice a day, which I will reduce once they get bigger and then feed
them every other day. They also get live ghost shrimp, Tucker eats live
snails (Peek-a-boo won't touch them), sometime feeder guppies, crickets
dusted with calcium powder. I have tried many different types of
fruits/vegetables but they don't eat them. I have read that as they grow
older they will want more plant matter, but right now they occasionally
munch on the plants, but very rarely.
<They may or may not change -- turtles have a funny way of deciding on
their own what they will and won't do as they grow up. I'd reduce the
feedings sooner, though. Remember these little guys have a very easy
life -- YOU do all the work, so over feeding, growing too fast and being
obese is a major health consideration.>
Now to the problems they are having. They love me and always come up to
the glass when I walk by and we play the "chase my finger around in the
water and then get held" game. However, they seemed to fight and nip at
each other when I am around, like trying to get attention. Now I
normally stick both hands in, one for each turtle. However, I noticed
today and yesterday that they seem to fight even when I am not where
they can see me. They chase each other and bite at each others shells
and head. I am just concerned that one of them is going to get hurt. I
don't have room to separate them by getting a whole other set-up and
although I was planning on getting them a larger tank once they were
larger, I would prefer to wait on that as well. Is there something that
I can do to alleviate this situation? They never seem to have marks or
be hurt from this. I just want to make sure that doesn't happen.
<I've never known what goes on in their little turtle brains while
swimming around thinking their turtle thoughts. It's unlikely
territorial, since they're often found in groups in the wild (not gangs
-- just many turtles inhabiting the same area). To my knowledge there
haven't been studies on social structures of water turtles, but I've
always guessed that it's some sort of instinctive behavior -- they seem
to do it in phases and they survive. I wouldn't worry about it unless
you see some damage.>
Second problem, as you can see from the pictures, they have white spots
on their shells. I was told this was shedding, but the scutes don't seem
to be falling off. These spots are not soft, so I don't think it is
fungus. I did put in a sulfa block just to make sure they don't get an
infection. I just wanted reassurance that this is normal looking because
I really feel that these spots should have gone away by now (I got them
about a month ago.)
<My guess would be fungus -- keep in mind that the shells are porous
under a microscope and the fungus gets down in those pores, so it looks
and feels solid to our eyes. I personally have no faith in the sulfa -
water treatments. The concentration would have to be very, very high to
be effective. Here's a link to a previously described treatment for
suspected bacteria or fungus.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshelrotfaq2.htm>
Also, the dark area in between the scutes is increasing. Is that because
they are growing? Around the edge of their shells, it is lighter in
color. Is that normal? There shell is hard, yet on the edges can bend
slightly, is that because it is just thin from being so young?
<Yes and Yes. Everything here is just fine.>
I heard it would be a good idea to let them be outside (supervised of
course) for a couple hours a day. Is that true and what would I put them
in? Would they need like a bowl with water and a rock to get out on?
<Sunlight is an amazing benefit. Your care and attention so far is
exemplary, but read this article and read the comments about sunlight,
filtering and water temp. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
I know I am asking a lot of questions, but I would rather ask and find
out what needs to be done to help them, than end up with even bigger
problems down the road. If there is anything else you recommend for me
setup, please let me know. I want these two to have the best possible
life I can give them.
<Right you are. Reptiles, like fish, are very stoic. A sick animal often
shows no outward signs at all until they very suddenly appear SO sick
that saving them is practically impossible. Fish and reptiles are all
about that proverbial "ounce of prevention" being worth a "pound of
cure." So keep asking and keep up the good work!>
Thanks again in advance.
Sincerely,
Sara
<Happy to be of service - Darrel>
Re: Texas Map Turtle Questions – 07/19/07
Hi,
<Hiya Sara.
Thanks for the quick reply, I will try to do something for the white spots.
However, I see many different responses on the link you provided. One
recommended vinegar, another a type of athlete's foot cream, an another iodine.
Which do you suggest I start with?
<They're all valid -- I often start with vinegar because I can bet that most
people have that, whereas a trip to the store is a bit harder. Sometimes we're
responding to kids who likely don't have the resources to run to a store or make
a trip to the vet, etc. so that's why you'll see a wide variety of options. Me?
I'd run to the drug store for miconazole or such>
Also, this part of my question, was not replied to, possibly because it is just
the same as the white spots on the carapace. If it is, please forgive me for
resending it.
<quite right. From here, using pics, white spots look like white spots, so I
deleted that paragraph as redundant to our general readership -- I shoulda
notated as such, sorry.>
Sincerely,
Sara
<Darrel>
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