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FAQs About Soft/Shell Rot, Conditions In Turtles 14

Related Articles: Shell Rot in Turtles, Treating Common Illnesses of the Red Ear Slider (& other Emydid Turtles) by Darrel Barton, The Care and Keeping of the Red Eared Slider, Trachemys scripta elegans by Darrel Barton, Red Ear Sliders, Turtles, AmphibiansRed Eared Slider Care

Related FAQs:  Shell Rot and Conditions 1, Shell Rot 2, Shell Rot 3, Shell Rot 4, Shell Conditions 5, Shell Conditions 6, Shell Conditions 7, Shell Conditions 8, Shell Conditions 9, Shell Conditions 11,  Shell Conditions 12, Shell Conditions 13, Shell Conditions 15, Shell Conditions 16, Shell Conditions 17, &  Turtles, Turtles 2, Turtle Identification, Turtle Behavior, Turtle Compatibility, Turtle Selection, Turtle Systems, Turtle Feeding, Turtle Disease, Turtle Disease 2, Turtle Disease 3, Turtle Reproduction, AmphibiansOther Reptiles

Shell problem    8/22/12
Hello WWM Crew,
<Hi Jonathan; Sue here with you.>
I have a turtle with white spot on the top of the shell. It looks like it also has some green in it so I'm thinking that it might be some king of fungus. The turtle is about a year old and my girlfriend was the original owner and she gave it to me like that. I thought it was something that normal for that species its from Nicaragua and I have 2 red eared sliders. I did some research about it and this got me thinking that it wasn't normal. I'm new to turtles and I don't know what to do about it. I've also attached some pictures.
<It's very difficult to confirm fungus from a picture alone. From the close-up photo, it looks like your turtle is shedding its scutes. When this happens, water can get trapped between the old and new layers which can sometimes lead to fungus developing.  One way to try to confirm if it’s a fungus is to see if it rubs off with a cotton swab. If it does then it probably is. In either case it doesn’t hurt to assume that it is and treat it as such. Here's a link with instructions for treating (see the section marked, “Fungal Infections”):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm  >
Please help.
Thank You
<You’re welcome, Jonathan. I’m also giving you a link to our basic care article:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm  >
<Almost all problems with turtles can be traced back to diet or environmental issues. In the case of fungus, you want to make sure that you’re providing your turtle with an adequately sized warm and dry spot (88-90 degree F) that allows him to get out of the water each day and completely dry off.  Besides a heat lamp placed directly above the basking area, you should also have a UVB strip light above the basking spot. Turtles need BOTH types of lighting. Try to direct the lighting away from the water as this can make the water too warm (water should be on the cool side, only in the 68-70 degree F range) and can encourage algae growth. Also make sure you keep the water and tank nice and clean.>
<Try these suggestions out and see if they help. Good luck! ~ Sue>

Re: Shell problem    8/27/12
You are right, it seems to between the layers of the shell.  How can I take it off? Should I scrape it with something?
<If in fact it is a fungus and is not on the surface but instead between layers of shell, then I wouldn’t scrape away at the shell to try to get at it. You want the shell to shed naturally and you don’t want to accidentally remove one too many layers.>
<Fungus loves moisture, so what I’d suggest instead is to dry dock him for a while and limit his access to water each day.  Here’s a link with instructions for how to do that-
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >
<Refer to the section called, “Isolation and Dry Dock”. Of note in these instructions is to make sure he has access to not only a heat source but also UVB while you’re dry docking him; and also the instructions for how to provide him access to some water each day.>
<Then while he’s out, make whatever modifications necessary to his environment to prevent the fungus from reoccurring.  For example, make sure that he’s able to – and IS – getting out of the water for several hours each day to bask under heat and UVB.  If he hasn’t been doing that up to this point, you need to determine why -- i.e. water not cool enough to motivate him to get out to bask; basking area not warm enough for him or is too small for him to get his whole body entirely out of the water; no UVB light along with the heat bulb, water not getting changed frequently enough, etc. – you get the idea!  Though shedding can often “set the stage” for a fungus to develop, it’s the environmental factors that most often sway it in one direction or the other.  So whatever extent you can fix the environmental factors will make him much less susceptible to fungus in the future.>
<Hope this helps! ~ Sue>
<Jonathan - one more thing besides my recommendations below is to also try applying some antifungal cream to his shell using a toothbrush each day.  The link I gave you talks about this in more detail - see the section called "Fungal Infections". >

pink Red Eared Slider!     8/7/12
Hi Guys!!
<Hiya - Darrel here>
If you recall I wrote to you a couple of time before regarding sick RES babies in Russia. Well, those babies with RI have healed fully thanks to your treatment plans!
<Glad to hear it!>
Yesterday I came across a poor little turtle in a new friend's room who had no clue how to handle and build a habitat for RES. he had kept this fellow in a little 10litre tank with no filtration, no lighting! The red-pinkish lines on the edges of his scutes started appearing a month ago he said. The turt is a year and a half old. I've dry docked this tort in a tub in the sun (thankfully its summer in Moscow too) and setup a shade for him to hide.
The temperature is in the range of 25-32. i am going to put him for an hour everyday in a Flucloxacillin bath to help the fungus like  grayish slime off his shell from when he was in the water. Do I need to start Baytril shots for this fellow?
<I wouldn't do that - not at this point>
Or is the pinkish tint from the excessive fungus?? His scutes seem to be lifted off his shell to if you look at him from the back (didn't grab that pic) how long do you suppose this guy would take to heal if dry docked and given the antibiotic baths?
<I don't think that pink tinge is septic, so I wouldn't worry about it. 
Continue the baths for 14 days, the dry-docking for 6 weeks and see that he gets a healthy diet during his daily swim.  Tiny pieces of beef or chicken liver will give him vitamins, essential minerals and oils that will promote healing.>
<If he's active and eating and pooping and basking, you're doing all you need to do!>
Regards and cheers to your good work!

Turtle Shell turned white     8/5/12
<Hiya - Darrel here>
Our yellow bellied slider is approximately two years old and female.  About a month ago her shell turned almost completely white (like it's bleached).
Other than that, she is acting completely normal and eats well (mostly pellets with occasional fish and greens).  This seemed to happen not long after we had to separate her from another yellow bellied slider because she was eating the other ones legs (that turtle is amazingly doing fantastic - thriving and eating).  Is this something I should be worried about and is there something I can and/or should do?
<This is an uncommon occurrence, Robin.  White PATCHES on the shell can be one of three things:  Fungus, Bacteria or mineral deposits.   A complete loss of color indicates something else, but WHAT it indicates … that's tough.  The worst case is that the living material under the scutes has simply died … but I've never heard or seen of that - EVER - happening uniformly and suddenly.>
<You have several simple options.  1- Try to rub or scrape a small portion off.  See if it comes off, see if what comes off smells and see what the color is underneath.  2 - Try a small amount of vinegar on a Q-tip and rub a spot, see the reaction.  Even a small amount (2-3 drops) of chlorine bleach on a Q-tip and then rub an out scute on the side and see what, if anything, changes.  3 - A trip to the Vet for a quick exam.  The problem here, Robin, is that while your explanation is very clear, this is one that has to be physically seen to render an opinion>
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
<One last thought - look on the internet for a Turtle & Tortoise Club in your area.  Maybe you can find an experienced "old hand" that could take a look in person>

Females shell     7/29/12
Warmest greetings and thank you for your time, my 5year old +,female res Mayham has a shell that the part on top near her tail, flares up dramatically, instead of down as she has grown, was just wondering if its normal. Gina.
<No, it isn't normal, and normally means one of two things: poor diet (specifically, lack of calcium) and lack of UV-B (either a UV-B lamp over the basking area or several hours of direct -- not through glass! -- sunlight). Review, and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Females shell     7/29/12

Thank you for your time and response
God bless
<Happy to help! Neale.>

My baby sliders possible shell rot    7/21/12
I've included several pictures of my two female yellow belly sliders….I have not noticed any change in there activity. I clean there tank every 2 days. They have a diet of turtle pellets, lettuce and carrots. i also use a water treatment for the tap water.
I have noticed there bellies have been darkening lately. and one of them came to me with a wart like bump on her shell but it has improved greatly and fresh new shell is now visible.
The darkening on the bottom of the shell is what worries me, I have taken the following steps since i noticed the bottom of the shells.
<Some change in the colour of the shell is normal; as the animals age, their colours will become duller, muddier. So long as the shell smells clean and feels firm, don't worry too much. Use a fingernail to scrape at the suspect area of the shell; healthy shell will resist scraping and feel tough, like horn; soft shell will flake or come away as powder, and there's usually a distinct fungus odour as well.>
1. I have raised the wattage of the lamp to increase the heat, but i also leave a shaded area for them.
<Good. Heat isn't the only thing though; you must provide UV-B light as well. You can buy combination lamps. You don't want an ordinary UV light though, or UV-A, but specifically UV-B.>
2. I leave them in a clean dry tank for at least 2-3 hrs. depending on the weather
<Not really necessary, but if they don't mind it, then go ahead and do this. But otherwise, if the air under the heat lamp is warm, they'll dry off naturally.>
3. I never feed them in there living tank, i use a separate feeding tank.
<A good idea.>
4. I never fill the living tank with water level above the rock level to leave room for basking.
<Also good.>
I admit to having a tank which is too small for their growth, but we are working on upgrading their living quarters shortly.
what can i do to reverse the affects if any and any tips on what needs to be corrected in my turtle keeping?
<Do start by reading here:
Adequate calcium in their diet plus a UV-B light source are the two keys. Vitamin supplements help with the former, and a UV-B lamp supplies the latter. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: My baby sliders possible shell rot   7/22/12
Thank you so much for your prompt response.....I feel a lot better now, I checked but no signs of soft or smelly shells. I will keep an eye on them....Thanks again.
<Glad to help. Prevention is better than cure, so be sure to follow the tips on diet and UV-B. Cheers, Neale.>

Shell help!      7/1/12
Hi guys, I'm in need of your help and frankly am worried.
My brother bought a yellow bellied slider about a month ago. I took interest in the turtle about three days ago and saw that he had no suitable condition for the turtle to live comfortably. I took matters in to my own hands and buying him a 10 gallon tank with lights
<UVA and B? What re diet?>
 and basking area.

What I want to know is, if my turtle has developed some type of fungus or maybe have shell rot? He is what I imagine a month and a half to 2 months old. He has these white marks where the shell and scutes meet. I thought it was shedding but he smelled a bit ugly and the spots/marks are softish.
<Not good>

He, for a month has not been in any type of light and has been eating pellets, shrimp, and krill. Also I try to clean his bowl/pond every other day. I'm really concerned, and I have gotten quite attached to Jenkins (my turtles name).
He eats normally and very aggressively, also he does not like to bask anywhere dry. (I assume because there is no difference in temperature.)
I would really appreciate any and all feed back! Any common household medicine i could use or maybe a certain diet.
Thanks from Mike and Jenkins!
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm
and http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshellrot.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Red Eared Slider; shell and system/care    6/28/12
<Hi Lauryn, Sue here with you.>
I have a RES turtle maybe 7 months old. Its name is Luna. Luna lives in a 10 gallon tank and is about 1 inch long. I have no clue if it is a girl or boy yet.
<You won’t know for sure until its top shell (carapace) reaches around 4 inches in length.>
I was writing you because around the crevices of its shell it has shiny grey lines. I was thinking it might have been shedding its scutes but it has been like that for about a month.
<That happens when they’re growing. As long as you don’t feel any soft spots it’s fine.>
Also when I bought Luna it had a spot on its shell, kinda white but greyish too. Luna still has the spot and it has grown larger. You can see the spot in the picture the spot's on the left side of the shell. Also Luna has some white spots going down the center of the shell and on the bottom of the shell it's kinda hazy.
<Unfortunately nothing discernible came through on the photos; the shell looked fine to me.  Is there any odor to the shell? >
I clean Luna's tank out fully every week
<Because it’s a smaller tank, I’d suggest more frequent water changes as there isn’t as much water is a small tank to dilute the food and waste.>
and have a filter, basking lamp, uva light,
<UVA is not adequate.  You MUST have a UVB; this is very important.>
and a basking rock.
<Good; just make sure she has no problem getting up on it and can completely dry herself off when basking on it.>
I give it pelleted food,
<That’s fine, just make sure you only feed her the pellets every other day and only as much as she’ll eat in 5 minutes or so, no more.  Then net up any uneaten food after that; this will also help the water stay cleaner longer. You should also net up any waste as soon as you see it as well in between the water changes.>
occasionally meal worms,
<We recommend earthworms instead and only one or two every month or so.>
and a calcium block for turtles. When I clean out the tank I dump out all the water, rinse off the rocks and the plant and the basking rock, also i rinse out the tank and the filter cartridge. I use a fish tank filter.  I am getting a Repti-filter very soon.
<Unfortunately even the filters made for turtles are often not enough (in fact many articles go so far as to recommend you DON’T use turtle filters for turtles!)  Whatever filter you do get, just make sure it’s the best mechanical filter you can afford, and one that’s at least (and preferably more than) 3 times greater than what it’s rated for. And even with that you’ll still need regular partial water changes.>
I also put Repti-safe in the water after I clean it.
<No need for this at all; plain tap water is fine. The tiny bit of chlorine that is in tap water will actually help a bit with the water quality.>
Luna lives alone. A couple days ago I looked in the tank and it had skin/slime looking stuff coming off of it. It's gone now though. At night when the basking lamp is off, I usually turn on the heater.
<Do you mean a water heater?  There’s no need for either at night, and there shouldn’t be any heater in the water at all day or night.  You want the water to be on the cooler side; around 68-70 degrees F, which is room temperature for most people.> 
I tried to clean Luna's shell with a soft bristled tooth brush, but it didn't really work. What's wrong with Luna? What should I do?
<Lauryn, I really couldn’t see anything on the photos you sent. However, from your description of white spots on the shell, slimy stuff on her skin and the habitat, it’s very possible that she (or he!) may be developing some surface fungus on her skin and shell.  So first, here’s a link that tells what you can do to treat it (and even if it’s not fungus, won’t hurt to treat as if it is):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >
<And next, make the changes I mentioned above to her habitat. The most important ones for her shell are to make sure that she basks for several hours a day, that she can get completely out of the water to dry off, that she has a UVB not just a UVA light above her basking area (UVB lights have both UVA and UVB), and that the temperature above her basking area is around 88-90 degrees F. Also remove the water heater if have one, and do more frequent water changes. You might also try feeding her in a separate enclosure (basically the less organic material in the tank the better). >
Thank you so much for all your help!!
<You’re welcome, I hope this did help! Try these things out and write us back if any more questions or concerns pop up. I’m also going to give you this link to our basic care guide to read over and make sure you have everything covered:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >

unknown spot on turtle shell    6/23/12
<Hiya - Darrel here>
Could you please diagnose this fungus looking spot on the turtle's shell?
<I can try>
He is a Mississippi Mud turtle.
<He certainly is!>
See image attached.
<Yer welcome!>
<From way over here, without being told if the spot is hard, soft, smelly or odorless - I can only guess the same as you - that it's a fungus.   Test this by taking a wooden toothpick (or something similar) and scrap the area.   A surface fungus will come off on the toothpick and when you put it to your nose, it will smell.   If it doesn't scrape, then you have two possibilities
1- That it's a fungus under the carapace.   If that's the case, you'll just "see" that there's a clear film over the area and you're not touching the material itself.
2- it's not fungal at all and could be a healing wound.   When the carapace material itself dies, the area becomes white and hard and bone-like (because, oddly, it's bone) and that is just the way the turtle lives.>
<If it's fungal, treat as in here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >
<If it's a scar … make up a really cool reason how it got it … like he got into a knife fight in a biker bar - and brag about it>

Re: unknown spot on turtle shell  6/27/12
Hi Darrel!
What a great reply...i appreciate the entertainment :)
I was actually sending this email on behalf of my boss but apparently he got everything straightened out over the weekend and the  turtle is recovering well.
<Yanno .. if we had a dime for every time someone wrote in asking for advice not for THEM but for "their boss" we'd have ... ah ... well ... a dime!>
It's amazing you figured out that he was a badass biker turtle just by looking at his spot!
Have a nice week,
<You too!>

Rot or Shedding?      6/3/12
Hello, Marjorie here! 
<Hi, Marjorie! Sue here with you.>
I have a question in regards to a Yellow-Belly Slider that I received as a gift six months ago.  She had not shed any scutes during the duration of the past six months, but I've noticed that she has begun to shed the ones on her plastron.
<They don’t always shed evenly at the same time. >
Since shedding those, I've noticed that a couple of the scutes on her carapace are beginning to lighten.  It is not severe, but it IS noticeable. Could she possibly have shell rot?
<Unless you’ve noticed the shell has some soft spots, foul odor, or the actual plates coming off and exposing tissue below, it’s unlikely your turtle has shell rot. The new shell growth will often look a bit lighter in color (before the old shell comes off it often gets a darker color to it). As long as the new shell you’re seeing is hard and looks healthy, you shouldn’t worry.>
As far as my setup goes, I have her in a 20-gallon tank, with a floating dock and UVB/UVA bulb.  The water stays around 75 degrees F, and her basking area is around 90. 
<This all sounds perfect so far!>
I have no filter, but am going to get one soon, and the tank is scrubbed and filled with fresh water every other day; it also is never filled more than half full.
<Sounds like you’re taking good care of her!>
As far as the baby herself, she has an insatiable appetite, and eats ReptoMin Floating Mini-Sticks,
<Very good. Just watch that you don’t give in to her 'insatiable appetite'! Overfeeding is the most common mistake people make with turtles. You didn’t mention her size but if her carapace is under 4” in length, just feed her every other day -  no more – and only as much as she can eat in 5 minutes or so – no more!>
and the occasional threat of a mini-krill or baby shrimp. 
<Would eliminate both; they have no nutritional value.>
She also gets an occasional mealworm (cut in half to allow easier digestion). 
<Good except I’d substitute earthworms for mealworms; they’re a more nutritious snack.>
She has had no past health problems, and is very energetic when she isn't basking.
<All good signs!>
Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures to offer, but practical advice would be helpful.
<Marjorie, it sounds like you’ve done your research and have all the basics down. Just make sure not to over-feed her. I’ll also give you this link to our basic care article to make sure you have all the bases covered:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
Thank you so much for taking the time to read my email, and have a nice day!
<You’re welcome, Marjorie; hope it helped. You’re doing a great job so far!>

Help - two (2) RES living in Malaysia. Hlth.    4/14/12
 Dear WWM Crew,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I live in Malaysia with limited vet treating exotic animals. I have been researching online and still could not confirm the problem of my Red Eared Slider turtles. I love and am very proud of them and want them to live as long as possible.
<We and they thank you for your caring>
Just a quick summary of what happened.
What made me extra concerned about their current condition is the death of one of my RES (8-inch) a few weeks ago at the 'vet'.
<Well, that will do it>
I do not trust the vet anymore because they did not even realized my RES was dead until I went to pick it up the next day.  They put my RES into a big tub resided by 30 gold fishes.
<Sick reptiles should never be kept in water.   They are best off in a warm dry place>
My RES had a 'puffy/ saggy' neck.  I didn't bother at first but then, I saw an ulcer growing on the area and later on, the ulcer turned from white to brown and then burst, no longer puffy but saggy skin. The process was not sudden, its neck was puffed since many years ago.
<But it WAS an indication that something was wrong>
It was still eating and running on the last day I had him in the tub. I suspected it drowned and died. When in the goldfish tub, it was struggling to float and I didn't know it couldn't swim.
<I'm completely confused.  The Vet put him in a tub with no basking area when in his care?  Here it sounds like YOU kept him that way>
Its dead body was like a statue, it stood steadily at the bottom of the tub, eyes turned blue, all limbs and head were out from the shell.
<Debilitated from years of improper care and too weak to struggle any longer>
Alrighty, now in the attached picture, you will see arrows pointing at problem areas of my living RES which confused me. I do not know if it is water retention/ edema or obesity. Both turtles have the same problem at both their thigh areas, the female (on top) being more serious.
<I would suggest that you know if you're feeding them more than you should:  They should have a vegetable-based diet (such as Koi Pellets) and all they can eat in 5 minutes, 3-4 times a week.  No more>
I have been keeping the female RES since I was seven (7) years old and I was totally clueless about how to care for the turtles. That probably explains the pyramiding.
<Actually their shells seem flattened.  I'd make sure they're getting enough calcium>
The female RES however survives and is now twenty-two (22) years old, 8-inch, been laying eggs every year the latest being Jan-12 (13 eggs) and Feb-12 (5 eggs). She loves eating and if I feed her only a little food, she will keep checking the butt of the male RES, waiting to eat poo.
<Yes … not very appetizing dinner conversation, however>
They both live outdoor in a big blue tub under the roof without any lamp or filter. Natural sunlight everyday with average temperature of 32-34 degree Celsius all year round. I change their water everyday.
<My only concern is that the water will tend to get too warm under those conditions.  If possible, find a way to shade the water so only the basking area gets sunshine>
Water height is around 3-4 inch.
<That will heat up very quickly>
I used to feed them only turtle pellets, but have recently cut down pellets and introduced vege and fruits. I feed them everyday. I noticed that they bask everyday.
Would you be able to confirm their problem?   Shall I add more water into their tub or dry dock them for a period? Can I feed more to the female RES because she might be pregnant and need to eat more?
<Try giving her (actually both of them) a calcium supplement.>
And also, I believe the bottom turtle is experiencing shell rot. The arrows pointed area has turned whitish. They bask everyday and I have been keeping the water clean now so I am hoping it will heal naturally. Is that possible?
<It's possible, but I'd dry-dock him for a month or so just to be sure.  As soon as his carapace REALLY dries out, you'll be able to spot and treat the fungus if it's there.  You would be shock at the number of times a case of shell rot turns out to be nothing more than water spots from minerals in the water>
It would be so much appreciated to get a reply from you. I let them out for a walk, bath and feed them everyday and my love for them is no lesser than a mother's love. 
Thank you.
<I hope we helped, Yann:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >

Painted turtle shell issues? Neale's try  2/29/12
I have a young painted turtle who has recently been developing some shell issues, can you maybe help tell me what they are?  In one of the pictures it shows a black spot with white in the middle on my turtles underside, the back has been there for a while but recently the white started coming and it looks like some sort of disease or infection.  Also my turtle's shell has began separating as well as turning upwards, although I know that the turning up of the shell is from a bad diet and eating too much but I'm not sure if the splitting of the shell has anything to do with it? 
Thank you, 
Veronica C
<Hello Veronica. The key thing here is whether the shell smells normal or musty. If there's any odour like mould or similar, then Shell Rot may be an issue, and you'll need to treat. If in doubt, consult a vet; but in the meantime, do read here:
Take some time checking the "holy trinity" of things that cause problems with turtle shells: diet (need a source of calcium); basking lamp (needs UV-B); and water quality (regular water changes and a filter essential).
Cheers, Neale.>
Painted turtle shell issues? Darrel's go    3/1/12

 Dear Crew,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I have a young painted turtle that has recently been developing some shell issues, can you maybe help tell me what they are?  In one of the pictures it shows a black spot with white in the middle on my turtle's underside, the back has been there for a while but recently the white started coming and it looks like some sort of disease or infection.
<That picture is certainly large, but the image isn't actually very clear.  It would help if you could send another.  In the mean time, a white from an infection will appear very clearly to be ON TOP of whatever coloration is present.   You can usually get a toothpick and scrape a tiny bit and the white will come OFF … or at least you'll see the background coloration below it.  Further rubbing with a cotton swab and some vinegar will usually result in a removal of at least the outer layer - if it's fungus.>
<It's easy enough to treat him for a fungal infection even if it's just a normal shift in color:  After he's been dry for a few days, the difference in texture between an infection and normal coloration becomes fairly pronounced.>
<read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/treating%20RES%20Dis%20DarrelB.htm >
Also my turtle's shell has began separating as well as turning upwards, although I know that the turning up of the shell is from a bad diet and eating too much but I'm not sure if the splitting of the shell has anything to do with it?
<The terms you use are a bit vague.  As they grow the outer edges of the scutes (the pieces that make up the top of the shell) do curl up a bit.   As each scute gets ready to separate, the edges will separate first.   The key here is that you can see the scute become milky-clear … like a fingernail … as it separates from the fresh scute below>
He has a heat lamp and a light that are left on most of the time also.
<Some clearer pictures would be most helpful>
Thank you,
<Yer welcome!>

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