FAQs on Magnificent/Ritteri Anemone
FAQs on: Magnificent Anemone Disease 1,
FAQs on Magnificent Anemone Disease by Category:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...),
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
Tip Anemones, Anemones,
Related FAQs: Magnificent
Anemones, Magnificent Anemone
Anemone Behavior, Magnificent
Anemone Compatibility, Magnificent Anemone Selection, Magnificent Anemone Systems, Magnificent Anemone Feeding, Magnificent Anemone
Usual warning re allelopathy w/ other Cnidarians;
including Anemones, their own species...
New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Anemone help from South Africa. Anem. incomp. 7/31/16
I have a 250l Red Sea Max, that is matured.
I added a bta to my current setup which has 2 magnificent anemones
<Yikes... not good to mix large Actinarian spp.>
yesterday (clones). I do not have a qt at the moment.
This morning the bta and smaller magnificent were touching. I then separated the
bta this morning and put him in a basket, still in the main tank
The 2 magnificents are sulking and have turned a very dark cokour compared to
normal. I think this might be due to toxin from the bta. The bta was completely
I have removed the bta and put him in a bucket with a pump and airstone to
separate from main tank.
I am running some extra carbon Brightwell carbonit x3 and want to do a 30% water
change tomorrow morning when I can create enough water and prep it sufficiently.
Any other advice,?
<Yes, a treble dose of iodide-ate; a double dose tomorrow... and some (a tsp. or
so) of simple hexose sugar if you can find it (just one level for the whole
tank, dissolved in system water); glucose preferred>
Your response is appreciated
<And you; Bob Fenner>
re: Anemone help from South Africa
Thank you for the response,
I'm not sure what iodide-ate is and I don't think get it in
<Mmm; yes you can. Look for SeaChem's line>
For sugar can I use plain brown sugar or glucose syrup ?
Once again thank you
re: Anemone help from South Africa
Thank you for all the help and prompt response. Will pick up the iodide today
and the glucose syrup.
Will do a 30% or so water change.
The magnificents are already looking better.
We give the iodine to allow for an immune booster? And the glucose for energy?
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone help from South Africa
I did the water change now just waiting for everything to settle.
Thanks once again for the advice.
Il let you know if everything is ok.
Please see pics of the magnificents before and after
<Looking better. BobF>
Magnificent Anemones. Using WWM - 1/25/13
I recently purchased an anemone which is creamy coloured with whiter
<Very badly bleached... complete loss of Zooxanthellae... can
It is not that large about 12-14cms across. My two Ocellaris clowns
which have been without an anemone for seven months ignored it for the
first day but on the second day were both in it and never really leave
it, only for food. I wondered if they need to secrete more mucus over
their bodies before they can go inside one having been without an
anemone for so long.
<Sometimes communication takes a while. Sometimes it never occurs>
This is great as it give me so much pleasure to see them rubbing their
bellies on the tentacles. This leads me to believe that clownfish should
only really be kept with the appropriate anemone as I don't think they
will be complete without one. I have dived all over the worked and never
seen a clownfish in the sea without an anemone.
<They (Amphiprionines) always live in mutual symbiosis w/ one of a few
species of Actinarians>
I have a couple of questions, all may water param.s are good
except......my phosphates were about 0.3 so I have added Seachem's
Phosguard in a pouch which I hope will reduce the phosphate to
negligible levels within 2-3 days.
<I wouldn't do this... see WWM re>
How sensitive are they to Phosphates?
<Not very... and do need soluble HPO4>
Also my temperature is a little high, I live in the tropics and my
chiller is set for 30C Why 30C well with the aircon on during the day it
hardly has to reduce the temperature, lower temps and it is on much more
often and makes a noise and uses about 1amp. The anemone looks in good
order, but when I drop New Life Spectrum small pellets on it it does not
seem to respond.
<Needs meatier fare>
I noticed the anemone is sticky but looking at your site where I saw
"There are no naturally white-colored Magnificent Anemones...
<This is correct. Do occur in quite a few other colors though>
and it's rare for ones that are badly bleached to recover" do
you think it could be another species or is it doomed?
<Most likely the latter, but is also likely Heteractis magnifica... see
WWM re ID... the petechia on the column, its color>
Should I try another food?
I placed it about 15 cm.s below the water level between two rocks and it
has not moved in four days so I hope it is happy. It looks great. Please
find a picture attached. It is very close to a Goniopora, if they touch
will either be hurt?
<Oh yes. Bob Fenner, out diving in the Philippines>
Thank you in advance, Adam.
|Re: Magnificent Anemones.
Bob, Wow enjoy the diving, so you think it can regenerate Zooxanthellae and
<Yes; didn't I already state this? Can, not should. B>
Re: Magnificent Anemones.
Yes but opposite to what I captioned and sent to you from your site, perhaps
new info. Please update to avoid confusion. So the purple base will return
with green tentacles?
<... not necessarily these colours and not w/o good care... Please read
where you've been referred to... B>
Re: Magnificent Anemones.
Hi Crew, I have a system with some delicate fish, Majestic Angel etc two
pieces of Goniopora and I added the Magnificent anemone
<? Angels eat anemones>
only a week ago and it died today.
<... very typical>
My params are all good, slight phosphate 0.05, Nitrate a little high at 10,
the fish and the Goniopora are all fine. The temperature could be a problem
running between 30 and 31. The anemone was bleached but as previously
discussed this should not be an issue.
<? Of course it is>
Do you think it is possible it was already "dead" but did not show signs
or are they that sensitive to temp. I am upset as my Nemos loved it. Any
advice would be great I have read they are very difficult to keep. Regards,
<Am done telling you to read on WWM. Go elsewhere. B>
Re: Magnificent Anemones.
How rude as clearly mentioned previously I had read part of your site and it
conflicts what you now say in regards to bleaching. Also in regards to your
suggestion that the Magnificent Anemone needs Phosphates that are detectable
I find that hard to believe as I live by the Indian Ocean where the
Phosphate reading is Zero.
bubble anemone shrinking tentacles... Nope... sent
Hi Crew. Thanks in advance for your help. I am needing some help
with my bubble tip anemone.
<Not... see here:
Can't be sure from your image, but from the color of the
pedicle, the verrucae... this looks like a Heteractis
I purchased him at my LFS about 2 months ago. I am in the process
of trying to correctly identify him using your web site, but when
I got him he had beautiful frosty bulbs with purple on the
He was fine, behaving and eating as I would expect based on the
research I've done about them. About a month ago we replaced
the bulbs in our aquarium. Compact fluorescents 2 each of 65w
dual actinics and 2 each of 10,000K dual daylights.
<How far away...?>
Our tank is a 90 gallon with a 15 gallon sump. No mechanical
filtration. 6 inches live sand, 110 lbs live rock, a pro clear
aquatics 150 protein skimmer in the sump, and a pacific coast
imports chiller that keeps the
temperature at a constant 78. specific gravity is always 1.024
with water that has evaporated replaced each day with RO water
from a Kent RO unit. We do weekly 10% water changes. Calcium is
about 400, PH is 8.2-8.3. no ammonia etc. alkalinity is on the
high side of normal according to my test kit. The aquarium has
been set up for over 3 years. This is the first time adding a
BTA. Also I change a carbon pillow monthly in the sump. We have
four ocellaris clowns, one desjardinii tang, one regal tang, one
yellow tang, a coral beauty, and a male and female mandarin
dragonet. Also a lot of snails, some hermit crabs a couple
cucumbers a skunk cleaner shrimp and two red fire cleaner
Anyway, since we replaced the light bulbs, our BTA has not been
well. His color on his body is still the same, brown, but his
tentacles have shrunken more and more until they are almost gone.
He still eats and excretes waste. I feed PE mysis shrimp mixed
with Cyclopeeze and formula two flakes daily to all tank
inhabitants, and I feed small chunks of shrimp and scallops from
my local grocery store to the BTA every few days. Usually he
Occasionally he lets it go. Are the lights the problem?
<Perhaps a contributing factor... This amount (intensity) of
light is insufficient for either Entacmaea or a
Should I move him?
<I would try this>
He is attached to a large rock that can be moved lower in the
tank. I am attaching a photo that I took of him this morning. At
night when the lights are out his disk expands like a big soft
pillow full of water, about 4 or 5 inches across, but the bulbs
still stay shrunken. His mouth is tight and smooth. Can you
guys(and or girls) help? Thank you so much. I love your site!
<Please use it. Bob Fenner>
Re: BTA shrinking tentacles more info... Allelopathy
Hi I sent you guys a question earlier this morning about my bubble tip
anemone problems. I sent a picture of him, and listed all water and
lighting other livestock etc. I did not mention the other corals in my
tank. I have been reading on your site all day and I'm wondering if
the brown, gold, and green Zoanthids in my tank could be the
I thought it was the new light bulbs. I will continue researching on
your site, but wanted to add to my earlier e mail that there are a lot
of Zoanthids in my tank, also some metallic green star polyps, a toad
and a mushroom.
<All these can be toxic to other Cnidarians... most so the
If the Zoanthids are the problem, should I get rid of them. Our tank
has been set up for a long time and they have multiplied a lot. Will my
BTA survive? What's the easiest way to get rid of them? Thanks.
<Mmm, best for you to read:
and the linked files above... till you understand your situation,
options, consequences. Bob Fenner>
Anemone problems, Ritter's 11/25/08
Hi there, you have helped me out in the past, and I am back again. I
just acquired a Ritteri anemone, about 4" in diameter, <Mmm...
"squeezed down" for shipping likely... Heteractis magnifica
in the wild are almost always much larger than this> came shipped,
arrived in good condition. I have tons of live rock, checked up on your
website, placed him high in the tank. Cut back the water flow for now,
he rolled around a lot and now is where i think he wants to be, however
my maroon clown has taken interest in him and now is trying to move
him. The anemone isn't attached yet and it has been a few days.
What should i do?? Thanks for all your help. <Mmm... I'd remove
the Clownfish for sure... temporarily... to see if this
"helps" the anemone to settle... H. magnifica/Ritter's do
"go floating about" much more than any other symbiotic
Actinarian species... Do make sure pump intakes and overflows are
effectively screened... heaters as well. You have read my piece on this
species care on WWM:
and the linked files above? This is not an easily kept animal... Bob
Heteractis magnifica health 12/12/03 Guys, <Adam here this
evening> I have had a magnifica for about 8 months (previous owner
had it for 2years) <congrats on your success with this difficult
animal!> and all of the sudden the mouth has protruded outward and
it has not decreased in size. At night the mouth comes out even
further. <I have seen this behavior in other species of anemones,
and have always seen it pass in otherwise healthy specimens> The
anemone has not lost its color or its ability to hold onto food (it
does not eat food but holds onto it for about 10 min. and then lets it
go) <Good signs that the stress it is experiencing is probably mild
and still reversible.> It is about 12 inches wide and 2 clownfish
host it one 3 inches long and one 1inch long. I have metal halides and
bombard it with current. <You obviously are aware of this animals
requirements in this regard. If it has been healthy for 8
months in your care, I suspect that you are meeting light and current
needs. My next thought goes toward water
quality. Even if all of the parameters you test for seem to
be within acceptable limits, there may be a water quality issue outside
of the things we normally test for. If this aquarium also
houses corals, I would be suspicious or allelopathy. If not,
I would still recommend a couple of significant water changes.> I
use to feed it 3 times a week but for about 2 weeks I have not fed it
at all. Let me know what I can do to remedy the situation. <I would
verify that all measurable water quality parameters are acceptable, and
proceed with a couple of water changes regardless of the
results. If any large corals are present, I would consider
moving them to another tank. In the mean time, I would limit
feeding attempts to only enough food to see if the animal resumes
eating. When it does, you can increase the
amount. If you don't ever vary the food, you may try
that also.> Thank you for your input <Always a
pleasure! Please do keep us updated. Adam> Alexander
Ritteri blues Good Morning, <hello> I have a 50 Gal.
tank that is 36"L X 18"W X 20"D, with 2 175 Watt Metal
Halides and 2 65 Watt power compact actinic blue lights. My tank is
completely cycled for almost a year now, and my water quality is
exceptional ( I do a 30% water change every two weeks, sometimes more
often), and I have a motion full tank with alternating wave
action. My question is I have purchased a 8"-9"
Ritteri Magnifica about 6 weeks ago, I did the acclimation properly for
a week, and he was in good health when I bought him. For about the lst
4 weeks he deflates himself for several hours a day several times a day
( at no specific time period for any amount of time) and he looks like
a blob, but he isn't deteriorating, and then reinflates himself for
several hours again. I filter feed him only twice a week,
and he is hosting a percula clown, he hasn't moved since the first
day he was in my tank so I don't know if he is happy or
not. I also have a carpet anemone in my tank, but he is all
the way in the other corner of my tank, and he hasn't moved for 6
months. I am beginning to wonder if I am pushing to<o> much
light or not enough, could you help me please. < no you are not
pushing too much light. This is most of the time normal. they expel
water and take in new. this is one of the most hardest anemones to
keep. the best way I have found to keep them is by making a raised
platform near the top of the surface and place them there. turn off
pumps for 10 minutes and he will stick if healthy). they love light and
also love to get hit with a lot of random current. your should also try
feeding him cocktail shrimp uncooked). Last it could be the clown is
harming the anemone. If the anemone is small and the clown is big it
can damage the anemone. the anemone should be at least 5 times the size
of the clown. hope good luck Mike H> Thanks, Michael C.
Re: Questions about my Ritteri Thank You for your response,
<welcome> I have a wave maker in my aquarium that is set on
rolling action. My clown is about 1" in length and my
Ritteri is about 8"-9", so I doubt it is the clown <I
doubt it too> Should I keep my lights on little longer, right now
they are on 10 hours a day? <10 hours a day is good I would not go
any longer than that Mike H> Thanks,