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FAQs on Magnificent/Ritteri Anemone Health/Disease
Related Articles:
Magnificent Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones,
Anemones, Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones,
Related FAQs:
Magnificent Anemones, Magnificent
Anemone Identification, Magnificent
Anemone Behavior, Magnificent
Anemone Compatibility, Magnificent
Anemone Selection, Magnificent
Anemone Systems, Magnificent Anemone
Feeding, Magnificent Anemone
Reproduction/Propagation,
Anemones in General,
Caribbean Anemones,
Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Identification,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Feeding,
Heteractis malu, | 
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Re: BTA shrinking tentacles more info... Allelopathy
4/24/2009
Hi I sent you guys a question earlier this morning about my bubble
tip anemone problems. I sent a picture of him, and listed all water
and lighting other livestock etc. I did not mention the other corals
in my tank. I have been reading on your site all day and I'm
wondering if the brown, gold, and green Zoanthids in my tank could
be the problem.
<Mmm, yes>
I thought it was the new light bulbs. I will continue researching on
your site, but wanted to add to my earlier e mail that there are a
lot of Zoanthids in my tank, also some metallic green star polyps, a
toad stool,
and a mushroom.
<All these can be toxic to other Cnidarians... most so the
Zoanthids>
If the Zoanthids are the problem, should I get rid of them. Our tank
has been set up for a long time and they have multiplied a lot. Will
my BTA survive? What's the easiest way to get rid of them? Thanks.
Dawn D.
<Mmm, best for you to read: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above... till you understand your situation,
options, consequences. Bob Fenner>
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bubble anemone shrinking tentacles... Nope... sent
secondarily
4/24/2009
Hi Crew. Thanks in advance for your help. I am needing some help
with my bubble tip anemone.
<Not... see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Can't be sure from your image, but from the color of the pedicle,
the verrucae... this looks like a Heteractis magnifica>
I purchased him at my LFS about 2 months ago. I am in the process of
trying to correctly identify him using your web site, but when I got
him he had beautiful frosty bulbs with purple on the tips.
<Mmmm?>
He was fine, behaving and eating as I would expect based on the
research I've done about them. About a month ago we replaced the
bulbs in our aquarium. Compact fluorescents 2 each of 65w dual
actinics and 2 each of 10,000K dual daylights.
<How far away...?>
Our tank is a 90 gallon with a 15 gallon sump. No mechanical
filtration. 6 inches live sand, 110 lbs live rock, a pro clear
aquatics 150 protein skimmer in the sump, and a pacific coast
imports chiller that keeps the
temperature at a constant 78. specific gravity is always 1.024 with
water that has evaporated replaced each day with RO water from a
Kent RO unit. We do weekly 10% water changes. Calcium is about 400,
PH is 8.2-8.3. no ammonia etc. alkalinity is on the high side of
normal according to my test kit. The aquarium has been set up for
over 3 years. This is the first time adding a BTA. Also I change a
carbon pillow monthly in the sump. We have four ocellaris clowns,
one desjardinii tang, one regal tang, one yellow tang, a coral
beauty, and a male and female mandarin dragonet. Also a lot of
snails, some hermit crabs a couple cucumbers a skunk cleaner shrimp
and two red fire cleaner shrimp.
Anyway, since we replaced the light bulbs, our BTA has not been
well. His color on his body is still the same, brown, but his
tentacles have shrunken more and more until they are almost gone. He
still eats and excretes waste. I feed PE mysis shrimp mixed with
Cyclopeeze and formula two flakes daily to all tank inhabitants, and
I feed small chunks of shrimp and scallops from my local grocery
store to the BTA every few days. Usually he takes it.
Occasionally he lets it go. Are the lights the problem?
<Perhaps a contributing factor... This amount (intensity) of light
is insufficient for either Entacmaea or a Magnificent...>
Should I move him?
<I would try this>
He is attached to a large rock that can be moved lower in the tank.
I am attaching a photo that I took of him this morning. At night
when the lights are out his disk expands like a big soft pillow full
of water, about 4 or 5 inches across, but the bulbs still stay
shrunken. His mouth is tight and smooth. Can you guys(and or girls)
help? Thank you so much. I love your site!
<Please use it. Bob Fenner>
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Sick Ritteri... many issues... A jokester? 12/27/08
Hello, We have had a Ritteri for about 15yrs. We had him in a 50 gallon
tank for many of those years, along with the rest of our reef
inhabitants. At one point several years ago we remodeled our room
and we changed to a 75 gal. tank. For a year or so all was fine and then
we had a water problem of some sort and he started shriveling up so we
tried to fix the water problem and put in Nitrate sponges and
phosphate sponges, we made sure our sump was working properly, and that
our protein skimmer was working properly...Everyone else in the tank was
very happy except him... In an last ditch effort to save him we put him
in our 15 gallon show tank [taller than most 15 gal tanks]. We have
mushrooms and polyps on rocks <Not likely compatible with the
Magnificent anemone> in there and they are doing beautifully. He
attached himself and for the last several years along with "Coral and
Marlin" the two clown fish that have been with him since we got them,
They have been happy. About a month or two ago we started having a green
water problem and the Ritteri is shriveling up and closing up, and
spitting out his stomach, and is almost flat.... we have taken every
test available to us. Salinity is 23, <Mmm, better to be near
seawater strength/concentration: 1.025> Nitrate was 0, <Is an
essential nutrient> Phosphate was less than 0.05 , Hardness [which is
too hard] 14... the Calcium is 540 <... Way too high... and your
Magnesium?> .....We did an almost 90 % water change. We used the Reef
water since it has no issues...about 60% of the tank, 10 gals or so. and
the rest, new salt water from our barrel. but the Ritteri wouldn't perk
up. Our little tank is green again, and we have ordered Algone for the
tank but it hasn't arrived yet. <I would not use an Algicide...>
So we put the Ritteri in the reef on the bottom...... We are watching
him , he is stuck to the bottom , but he's spitting up all this fluffy
looking stuff and all his tentacles are laying like a flat mum (the
flower)... <Bad> but he does not smell and none of the cleaning
crew are trying to eat him...What do we do? Thank you so much, Susan and
Bobert Arnett <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner.
Anemone problems, Ritter's 11/25/08 Hi there,
you have helped me out in the past, and I am back again. I just acquired
a Ritteri anemone, about 4" in diameter, <Mmm... "squeezed down" for
shipping likely... Heteractis magnifica in the wild are almost always
much larger than this> came shipped, arrived in good condition. I
have tons of live rock, checked up on your website, placed him high in
the tank. Cut back the water flow for now, he rolled around a lot and
now is where i think he wants to be, however my maroon clown has taken
interest in him and now is trying to move him. The anemone isn't
attached yet and it has been a few days. What should i do?? Thanks for
all your help. <Mmm... I'd remove the Clownfish for sure...
temporarily... to see if this "helps" the anemone to settle... H.
magnifica/Ritter's do "go floating about" much more than any other
symbiotic Actinarian species... Do make sure pump intakes and overflows
are effectively screened... heaters as well. You have read my piece on
this species care on WWM:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/hetmagnifica.htm
and the linked files above? This is not an easily kept animal... Bob
Fenner>
Injured H. magnifica 3-10-08 I purchased a magnifica today,
in the shop he was quite reluctant to leave his rock, thought taking
the rock was not a viable option as it was very large and covered in
e.quads. Anyway, he/she suffered a pretty bad tear during removal,
it is now in my tank (I wasn't sure what to do, I have 2 ocellaris
clowns in my quarantine and I didn't want them harassing it). The
tear runs right through its body and foot, almost to it's mouth but
not quite. most if its foot still seems functional and it is
expanding slowly (although it is looking like a BTA as it expands..
I hope I got the right one =\). Is there anything I can do to help
it recover? I feel pretty bad as it is, and to top it off the
aquarium is 2 1/2 hours away so replacement is not viable for a
while. I appreciate any help you guys can give, (btw, PH = 8.3,
ammo = 0, nitrate = 0, nitrite = 0). <Leave the anemone alone for
24 hours, then attempt to feed with minced meaty foods and Selcon.
Tearing this anemone during removal was irresponsible - more care
should have been taken. It is possible and relatively
straightforward to extricate an anemone with some patience, a credit
card, and some ice> Thanks, Oscar. <Anytime - M. Maddox>
Re: Injured H. magnifica 3-10-08 I am aware it was
irresponsible, unfortunately it was out of my control as it was not
me removing the creature.. <I would have complained, and not
purchased the animal after that abuse> Thanks for the help
though. should it still be able to eat if the tear extends to it's
mouth? <Maybe, maybe not - worth a try, with finely minced meaty
foods, or a turkey baster and Cyclop-eeze. Good luck, and avoid that
store from now on! M. Maddox> |
Failing Ritteri Anemone, Heteractis magnifica – 1/18/08 Crew,
<Hello Craig, Brenda here!> Some background info about my
situation: I have a 92 corner bow front and a 40G sump that was
moved in October, originally set up last July. I moved 30 miles and
switched from using tap water to RO water at that time, since my
local water didn't want to mix with salt or Kalk very easily. The 92
that was set up back in July was filled with sand, rock, and
livestock from a 54 corner bow front that had been set up for 2
years. The 54 and 92 housed the same mix of corals and fish until
recently, when I sold my Ritteri and pair of perculas. <Anemones
should never be kept in a system using tap water.> The tank has
the following mix of species, and this mix has remained relatively
unchanged for about 12 months, other than switching out one Ritteri
for two new ones and two Perculas for three Ocellaris. <How long
ago were the new anemones added? Why is the water cloudy looking?
Did you replace the sand bed, or rinse it?> It is important to
remember these animals have always been in the tank with my old
Ritteri and now with my new Ritteri as well. <The old anemone
made the move with the tank?> I know how Bob expounds without end
the risks of keeping a mixed reef, but all my animals are no less
than 6" away from one another and I have not had problems with
chemical aggression. <Unfortunately, chemical warfare is not
always visible until late stages. I agree with Bob on this. Do you
run fresh carbon in your reef tank? How often are you replacing it?>
* Two Ritteri anemones * LPS - 10 head green branching hammer, 2
head yellow frogspawn * SPS - 6 4-6" Acro, Monti, and Staghorn
* Clavularia - Daisy, Star polyps, and 2-3 other types I can't
ID......prolific on my rock, covering all told 30-40 square inches
* Pipe organ - 6" * Various Ricordea - 10-12 Actinodiscus, which
are not "hairy" or "knobby" * Juvenile Emperor (3") when he gets
bigger so will his accommodations * Black Ocellaris - three that
are 2-3" * Longnose Hawkfish - 3" * Snails, crabs, what not
cleaners The salinity was usually kept around 1.028-29 with the
old Ritteri, which was high, but the old Ritteri definitely
preferred these higher salinity ranges by demonstrating positive
behavior (not moving, remaining inflated) so I let the livestock
dictate the parameters and not the books and instruments. Now I have
two new Ritteri, an additional one was given to me since an extra
one was shipped in my order. <Shipping anemones is also very
stressful on anemones. This is no doubt adding to the poor health of
the anemone.> For the first month I only had the first anemone,
but after the LFS couldn't sell and couldn't provide enough light,
it came home with me. Given these anemones are often found in huge
associations in the wild, is it a problem to keep more than one in
my tank for now (yes, a fraction of the water volume...but they are
only about 6-8" inflated)? <It can cause problems.> The LFS
kept the anemones at 1.025 and the anemones seemed more inflated
there than in my tank, but that would be a very imprecise appraisal.
It is worth noting the LFS had dozens of 20G tanks plumbed together
with zooanthids, tons of Ricordea, polyps, and all manner of
actinarians: BTAs, LTAs, Condys, Sebaes, etc. <Ouch! This is
definitely not the best environment.> Here is the issue: as you
can see, both anemones don't seem to want to fully inflate. 1/4 of
the tentacles somewhere on the anemones are deflated at seemingly
all times. So I know that all animals within a species are
individuals and behave uniquely, and also these new Ritteri are
likely from a different location, since they have a purple mesentery
and my old Ritteri had a yellow body and thus they could be from the
Red Sea and prefer higher SG (like my old Ritteri). Even when I had
only the one newer anemone I noted this behavior, so the presence of
the second anemone is out of the question (they are also about 3
feet apart). The deflated areas change throughout the day, so tissue
damage is out of the question. Both anemones have eaten under my
care (they both prefer only tilapia...same as my old Ritteri) so
failure to feed is out. They are under 400W of halides at 14000K,
and do not move around (which of course is atypical for this
species). I have a Hydor 3 circulation pump (1200gph), two Rio 1200
with rotating deflectors (600gph) and a Mag 24 return pump with
central diffuser (~1800gph) so I don't think a lack of circulation
is an issue. <It doesn’t sound like it. However, if you don’t
protect the intakes of those pumps soon, you may have a bigger
problem if your anemone decides to roam.> I have even tried
turning down/off some of the pumps in case too much circulation was
an issue (though I have heard Bob admonish this is almost never
possible with non-laminar currents). I do run an Octopus NW200
skimmer for tanks up to 200G. Nitrate is around 5-10ppm. <It
needs to be zero.> Nitrite is 0, ammonia is 0, and phosphate is
0. Salinity is 1.027. Temperature is 80F. pH is 8.2. Basically, all
the parameters are the same as they were with the old anemone, but
these anemones do not seem to be altogether comfortable. <The
anemones are also a bit bleached.> I have experienced in the past
when an anemone remains less than fully inflated for extended
periods of time, it is not long for this world. I know reef animals
need stability more than anything else, so if I am going to change
one thing (other than livestock, which is the last resort) it is
going to be the specific gravity of the tank. Being osmotic
conformers, can anyone verify my hunches regarding the
osmoregulation feedback loop of anemones? So if the SG in the
surrounding water is lower than what the anemone wants, would it
deflate to attempt to raise the concentration of salts within its
tissues? Or is it the opposite? Do anemones have some sort of
mechanical automatic response when SG is changed? <Anemones don’t
do well with abrupt changes. Anemones do deflate to exchange water,
and to expel waste. However, I do not believe the anemone is
deflating because of a salinity issue.> I have observed changes
in inflation whether increasing or decreasing SG by .001 over the
course of an hour (always keeping it between 1.025-1.029). <A
range of 1.025 – 1.029 is much too large. When you increase or
decrease by .001 over an hour, what you are seeing is the anemone
acclimate it self to the change in chemistry.> Then they seem to
go back to their initial state of inflation. I don't want to play
guessing games with the SG of the tank and end up killing the
anemone, so before I take the step of removing all other inverts,
could you give me some perspective on how to feel about this lack of
inflation? I understand it's a common problem people experience when
new to keeping anemones, but I have been at this a while and the
answer evades me. I have attached three photos (glass is a little
foggy...water is clear). <Good!> There is one of each anemone
and one photo of the setup as whole, for you to see the spacing of
the animals. Sorry for the marathon email, you guys <and Gals>
are the ONLY reason I have had ANY success in this hobby. <Glad
you find us helpful.> You are also the ONLY reason I have such an
appreciation for these animals and their natural environs.
<Craig, I believe you have a couple of things going on that are
causing the poor health of the anemones. First, the tank was moved
in October, this is too new of a set up for anemones. I’m a bit
confused on how this transfer was done. Did you replace the sand
bed, or rinse? Anemones need established environments. I’m not
seeing an established sand bed. Second, both of your anemones have
likely recently been shipped, and likely both recently collected
before they were shipped. Wild collection and shipping is incredibly
stressful and many times deadly to anemones. Your fluctuating of
salinity is also not doing the anemones any favors. I typically
recommend 1.026 for anemones. This species is known to do well in
captivity at this level. However, I would not say that 1.027 is
necessarily bad for this creature. Stability plays an important role
here. The mix of corals you have could also be harming the anemone.
Running fresh carbon may help this issue.> Regards, Craig
<Hope this helps! Brenda> | .JPG)
.JPG)
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Anemone problem I have looked at a very large amount of anemone
websites on the internet and I believe that you site is ranked as one of
the most informative in my opinion. <thank you... as it is
intended. I for one feel that most anemones should not be collected and
that most aquarists should not buy/keep them. We could talk for hours
about the reasons why. Simply know that for starters that they are
likely doomed to fail (assuming you can even get a healthy undamaged
one) if they are not kept in a species tank: no other cnidarians! No
coral and no other anemones> I have kept many anemones with not much
luck. They just all seem to slowly die. I hate that. <don't keep
buying them my friend> I currently had a big beautiful ritteri
anemone. <perhaps the most difficult of them all. They need full
reef lighting... more than most coral. How many aquarists are willing to
spend $1000 on a hefty halide lighting system just to keep a single
anemone. This... most climb the walls starving for light and die without
it or get torn/killed in a pump or overflow intake in their search.
Tragic> It seems to be big in the morning but as the day progresses
it just seems to get much smaller and tentacles begin to deflate. It has
plenty of light <250-400 watt metal halides?> and a moderate
amount of water movement. <very strong water movement needed here
too> The thing with all my anemones is when the begin to die, they
look like they begin to expel some sort of a smoky substance. Can you
tell me what that is? <one possibility is the expulsion of
zooxanthellae under duress> And is there anything I can do to help my
anemone? <natural sunlight supplemented with big halides, no
unguarded pump intakes, heavy feedings of micro sized ocean meats,
weekly water changes... essentially a species tank> thanks, Chris
<best regards, Anthony> Heteractis magnifica health 12/12/03
Guys, <Adam here this evening> I have had a magnifica for about 8
months (previous owner had it for 2years) <congrats on your success
with this difficult animal!> and all of the sudden the mouth has
protruded outward and it has not decreased in size. At night the mouth
comes out even further. <I have seen this behavior in other species
of anemones, and have always seen it pass in otherwise healthy
specimens> The anemone has not lost its color or its ability to hold
onto food (it does not eat food but holds onto it for about 10 min. and
then lets it go) <Good signs that the stress it is experiencing is
probably mild and still reversible.> It is about 12 inches wide and 2
clownfish host it one 3 inches long and one 1inch long. I have metal
halides and bombard it with current. <You obviously are aware of this
animals requirements in this regard. If it has been healthy for 8
months in your care, I suspect that you are meeting light and current
needs. My next thought goes toward water quality. Even if all of the
parameters you test for seem to be within acceptable limits, there may
be a water quality issue outside of the things we normally test for. If
this aquarium also houses corals, I would be suspicious or
allelopathy. If not, I would still recommend a couple of significant
water changes.> I use to feed it 3 times a week but for about 2 weeks
I have not fed it at all. Let me know what I can do to remedy the
situation. <I would verify that all measurable water quality
parameters are acceptable, and proceed with a couple of water changes
regardless of the results. If any large corals are present, I would
consider moving them to another tank. In the mean time, I would limit
feeding attempts to only enough food to see if the animal resumes
eating. When it does, you can increase the amount. If you don't ever
vary the food, you may try that also.> Thank you for your input
<Always a pleasure! Please do keep us updated. Adam> Alexander
Blanco Ritteri blues Good Morning, <hello> I have
a 50 Gal. tank that is 36"L X 18"W X 20"D, with 2 175 Watt Metal Halides
and 2 65 Watt power compact actinic blue lights. My tank is completely
cycled for almost a year now, and my water quality is exceptional ( I do
a 30% water change every two weeks, sometimes more often), and I have a
motion full tank with alternating wave action. My question is I have
purchased a 8"-9" Ritteri Magnifica about 6 weeks ago, I did the
acclimation properly for a week, and he was in good health when I bought
him. For about the lst 4 weeks he deflates himself for several hours a
day several times a day ( at no specific time period for any amount of
time) and he looks like a blob, but he isn't deteriorating, and then
reinflates himself for several hours again. I filter feed him only
twice a week, and he is hosting a percula clown, he hasn't moved since
the first day he was in my tank so I don't know if he is happy or
not. I also have a carpet anemone in my tank, but he is all the way in
the other corner of my tank, and he hasn't moved for 6 months. I am
beginning to wonder if I am pushing to much light or not enough, could
you help me please. < no you are not pushing too much light. This is
most of the time normal. they expel water and take in new. this is one
of the most hardest anemones to keep. the best way I have found to keep
them is by making a raised platform near the top of the surface and
place them there. turn off pumps for 10 minutes and he will stick if
healthy). they love light and also love to get hit with a lot of random
current. your should also try feeding him cocktail shrimp uncooked).
Last it could be the clown is harming the anemone. If the anemone is
small and the clown is big it can damage the anemone. the anemone should
be at least 5 times the size of the clown. hope good luck Mike H>
Thanks, Michael C. Arnold Re: Questions about my Ritteri
Thank You for your response, <welcome> I have a wave maker in my
aquarium that is set on rolling action. My clown is about 1" in length
and my Ritteri is about 8"-9", so I doubt it is the clown <I doubt it
too> Should I keep my lights on little longer, right now they are on
10 hours a day? <10 hours a day is good I would not go any longer
than that Mike H> Thanks, Ritteri Anemone 5/21/04
Hello Anthony <cheers Drew> Recently bought a nice Ritteri Anemone
from my LFS and was wondering about some strange things its does,
<this is such a beautiful anemone, but one of the most challenging
cnidarians (among all corals and anemones) to keep in captivity. They
require an extraordinary amount of light (halides ideally over 5 watts
per gallon) and powerful water flow with target feedings several times
weekly (finely minced meats only... no nig chunks) in a species specific
tank (no other cnidarians). Most become a statistic within a year, sad
to say. Please do take this advice to heart. I hope this works out for
you!> every night and hour before the lights go out it will lean
almost lay down into the current? seems odd to me but I can not find
anything on habits of an anemone other then they will wander.
<yikes... there is lots of info abroad (mostly negative) on the keeping
of this anemone. Dig deeper my friend> tonight he was leaning over
and just fell off the rock? SPG is 1.0235 ph is 8.3 - 8.4 temp
is 78 water flow is approx 1300 GPH 90 Gallon aquarium. for
lighting I just installed prior to buying him, 4 VHO bulbs all are
110 watts 2 Super actinic 2 Aquasun. <the water flow is
good.... but the lighting is not even close to par. The actinics are
just for aesthetics and offer little to no help here (I still like them
too though <G>). In essence, you have 220 watts (just over 2 watts per
gallon) to keep this anemone with only two white bulbs... and worse
still.... its VHO which is very attractive in my opinion, but only
penetrates weakly into the water column. Unless the anemone sits in the
top 8-10" of the surface, It is not getting enough light to even survive
the next couple of months. My advice is to switch to four 7k - 10k K
bulbs and force the anemone to stay near the surface (top 10"), unless a
halide fixture is a possibility> also like to mention that two True
Perculas have taken to him only a few days after he was put in the tank.
During the day he seems fine he is on a high point where he will receive
lots of light and current but on a separate pile from the main rock work
to deter wandering. sorry for the lengthy email just thought to pass on
info I thought that may help. Thanks. Drew <no worries... you are on
the right track. I wish you the best of luck!> ps. plan on buying
your book I found an autographed copy at my LFS and will be picking it
up shortly. <ah, thanks kindly :) Anthony> Ritteri
shock? Hello Crew, <Graham at your service.> Sent an email
about my ritteri falling off his rock, but received no response. one
thing i did notice though is its every night when i shut off the lights
it falls off and rolls across the bottom of the tank, I have left it and
it looks most unhappy so i always put it back on its rock where it seems
fine till the next night. <It's completely normal.> Guess my
question is, will the sudden change in light cause my ritteri to release
from his rock thus being blown off from the current? <No. As you
probably know, anemones have no central brain -- thus why they cannot
adapt to a certain environment. If your aquarium isn't fitting the exact
needs the anemone would encounter in the wild, the anemone will move to
find a suitable location. This move is commonly done during the night.
With that said, leave your anemone and let it roam around the tank where
it wants -- just make sure it cannot be sucked into a powerhead or
filter.> if so what can i do to prevent this with having to spend
extra money for a dimmer. <See above.> am running a icecap 660
with 4 110 Watt VHO lights 2 super actinic to Aquasun. Thanks as
always <Good luck! The Ritteri is a very difficult anemone to
successfully keep. It's important to maintain excellent water quality
and give the anemone ample amounts of lighting. You may also want to
feed the anemone foods such as krill, squid, silversides, lancefish,
etc. 3x weekly to give the anemone added nutrition. Take Care, Graham!>
Drew Ritteri Anemone Trouble Hello, I have a
question, I have a Ritteri anemone, for about 3 Months it has been doing
good until the past few days. It had moved to the top of the tank
and stayed there. I notice the bottom of the anemone is falling apart
(Dying) but the top looks excellent. The mouth is in good shape too. I
assume that maybe this is a light issue. It is a 29 gal. tank with
power compacts 100 watts,<I believe the light should be adequate
provided of course the tubes are changed yearly and one should be an
actinic.> <<No... RMF>> 10x on the water flow ( Which it moved it
self right in the path of) 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, ph 8.2, nitrate 20ppm
Only thing in this tank is a pair of maroon clowns, and some live rock.
Is there any saving this anemone? As I said the top looks great!. Is
there anything I could or should do, or is it too late. I would start by
doing a 20% water change with an enriched salt such as Reef Crystals.
Secondly, do a 10% change weekly, not just till things get better. Are
you using a protein skimmer? Do you feed your anemone? Please respond
for a more detailed answer. James (Salty Dog) Thanks, WWM Fan!
Ritteri Anemone Trouble Yes I was feeding it 3 times a week, The
lights were new, 1 Antic. I pulled it out the mouth was did not look
good and it was fouling the tank. It was Gone and nothing I could
do. I just do not know what happened to it. I do use a protein skimmer
and getting good stuff out of it. and in All my tanks I faithfully
do 20% a week, including my 180, and my 300. I haven't missed a water
change in 2 years. I always add my supplements. The food was Chopped up
krill, with chopped silversides and other mix. Thanks for your help, but
I do not think it was meant to be. The Maroons look lost. I think
they were wild caught. I have had them a year. they lay eggs, they
hatched a few times but did not live. I just do know what kind of
anemone to get them anymore. I had a nice bubble tip In there with them,
but It was too small. They beat the heck out of it, It almost died but I
moved it to another tank and it is doing really well. The problem is the
female is about 7" and very aggressive and protective of her anemone. I
barely could stick my hands in the tank to clean it. Thank you for your
time.<Hello Mr. Zielgler. One thing to keep in mind. Anemones are not
easy to keep. First of all, they don't ship well and that adds to
problems from the start. You must have done your homework on
anemone/clown relationship since the Ritteri is the anemone of choice
for the Maroon Clown with the bubble tip being second and long tentacle
anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis) being runner up. The use of metal
halide lighting is preferable for the ritteri. PC lighting is
acceptable for the bubble tip providing your tank is not deep. You
certainly are doing things right but you are just experiencing what many
of us have and that is realizing most anemones can't be kept in a closed
system for any long term duration. Every now and then a lucky aquarist
will get one that does exceptionally well under proper conditions. James
(Salty Dog) Scott
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