Cracked Acrylic Tank- RMF please comment
6/9/08
I just picked up a used 500 gallon acrylic tank 8ft long 4ft deep 2ft tall.
<Wow, that is a lot to pick up!>
After getting it home I noticed the bottom panel has a few cracks.
<Yikes!>
The tank was made with 1/2in acrylic except for the bottom which for some reason
I really don’t understand is only 1/4in.
<Cost likely, needless to say the bottom (and the sides) are not thick enough
material for this size tank. You can see the results of this in what you have on
your hands now. Think of the bottom having the same function as the top brace,
¼” would never be adequate for a tank this size. As for the sides, although many
online resources and calculators say ½” is enough, I am not comfortable with any
less than ¾” on a tank this size, even for the bottom. This tank in ½” will have
a scary amount of bowing.><<RMF is in agreement... particularly re the bottom...
worrisome if not totally supported flat>>
With that being said is it possible to replace this with 1/2in or could I just
place another panel under that one and patch the cracks on the inside also?
<Considering the panel is too thin to begin with, I would simply replace it with
thicker material, perhaps considering cutting the height of the tank down in the
process to a more appropriate height for the material (20” or so, assuming there
is sufficient cross bracing on the top).>
Then there is always scraping the tank but my wife would most likely kill me.
Any help would be great.
<Do not scrap the tank, you have gobs of usable acrylic. If you are at all handy
you can surely fabricate a more appropriate size using this material. Good luck,
Scott V.> <<RMF is more inclined to go
with the writer's suggestion here... and anneal/solvent another piece onto the
existing too-thin bottom... IF this can be done practically... i.e., if the
existing base is not too uneven/non-planar>>
Acrylic repair 3/4/06
Hello Bob,
<Tony>
I would like your advice on repair of acrylic tank. I have never owned an
acrylic tank before. Just purchased an 180 gallon acrylic fish tank. The
previous owner made 3 holes for pipes used in an overflow sump. ( mostly for
salt water). I need to plug up the holes to house my Arowana. Any advise on how
to plug up these holes..
Any suggestion would be helpful..
Thanks Tony
<I would make these "temporary"... rather than affix the mentioned cover pieces
with solvent (as the rest of the seams)... By using Silastic (100% Silicone
Sealant) and "squares" of appropriately thick acrylic (look in the "used/scrap
bin" of a plastics dealer/fabricator), over-lapping the holes by an inch or
more, making a thin bead, smooshing the covers onto the inside of the tank, over
the holes, taping in place for a day or so... Bob Fenner>
Re: acrylic repair 03/07/06
thank you for your help
<Oh, and I do hope/sense we will "meet again" (same bat-fish channel plus), when
you "uncover" these through puts to make this tank part of a reef system.
Cheers, BobF>
Melted acrylic 1/6/07
Hi,
I have a question concerning a 200g acrylic sw tank. We had
a problem with a T-5 light it shorted out and started a fire in our
canopy and the light was sitting on the corner of the tank and when we
caught it (the fire) it was too late
<You're very fortunate the house, folks weren't injured as well... Am
getting the chemical memory back of such fires... Acrylics have
quite/surprisingly low flash points...>
and we have a large indentation where the acrylic had melted.
<I see this>
Can this be repaired?
<In this case, it does appear so, yes>
And if so any suggestions on how to do it or who to contact as we
have no tank repairmen in our area.
<Yes, can likely be burnished, buffed out... I would look in your local
"telephone directory" under "Plastics" and call folks who are listed
there locally who do fabrication...>
We are currently in discussions with the light company and need a
quote or an explanation if it can be repaired.
Thank you very much, Angie Lindsey
<At the very worst, the most damaged panel/s might have to be cut away
(yes, making the tank smaller) and new annealed in their place. There
was a national (U.S.) co. that in recent years advertised doing "scratch
removal" et al. work... but I am very sure that a more local firm will
be able to do this repair. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Jim Dorsey, California
Aquatics
Bob,
Oddly enough, Donna from Dr. Kaplan's office [Pediatric Urological
Associates] called and, as you remember, you installed a Tru-Vu 75 Hex Tank in -oh about 1982.
<Yikes! Yes, a very nice fellow, and great office staff as I recall.>
Well, one of the kids knocked off the canopy [again] and
we are having trouble finding Aquaplex. Did Bill Montgomery finally get how
of the business?
<I don't think so... but... pls see below>
How can we do that?
<Finally get out of the business? Wish I knew!>
Do you know of any other acrylic canopy manufactures?
<Yes. Have San Diego Plastics fabricate a sturdier replacement>
Thought you might get a kick out of this one!
Check out are site @ www.californiaaquatics.com
Jim
<Very nice. Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Re: tuff acrylic cleaning question, repair
Thanks Bob,
I ended up having to use lighter fluid to clean this stuff off, it was caked
on pretty good.
<As long as you're "right there" wiping off the excess (so it
doesn't melt the acrylic) this works pretty well>
I have another question. I found two small chips on the corner of the bottom
plate, about 1/4" around and maybe 1/8" deep. The acrylic is 1 inch
think at
that location so I don't think it will be harmful. Do you think that I can
put some acrylic glue in the chip just to give it some strength in that
area.
<Might help. Have you considered adding some "square doweling" in
the corner. This stuff comes in stock sizes with two of the four sides
"square" and the other two a bit concave. You solvent (as in with
Weld-on) the two flat sides to the tank inside corners. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Repairing a hole in a sump
When I recently tore down my tank I left a heater on in a small amount
of water in the sump. It is acrylic, It burned a hole in the bottom and
side with some bubbling of the acrylic. I was wondering if I could cut
out the affected area and glue some new plexi over the top of the cut
out area. It is a hidden sump so it doesn't matter what it looks like,
just cost a lot so I would like to recover.
Thanks,
Mike
<Actually, if the acrylic isn't too bubbled, you could just cut or have cut some
small pieces of sheet (look in an acrylic outlets "bargain" box or ask for
scraps, cut-offs...) and simply silicone them in place on the inside, over the
holes, damaged area. Bob Fenner>
Tank repair
I've a problem with the plastic trim on the top of my 55 gallon fresh water
aquarium. I've looked at many questions you've listed but did not see mine,
specifically.
It was a saltwater tank that crashed, so I was cleaning it out
thoroughly. While turning it onto its side, I accidentally broke the cross
member piece of plastic (part of the trip on the top of the tank.) On my other
55 gallon tank, its the piece of plastic that divides the top of the tank in
order to accommodate two separate lights. I put the tank back together, filled
it with water and began the pumping process, etc. There is a very large wooden
light holder that fits on top (lighting for salt and a 75-watter). When I put
this top in place, I noticed that the lid would not close correctly. I looked
at the front of the tank and noticed a slight bow to the plastic strip on the
front side and back side. I'm assuming that if the strip is a bit bowed, so are
the front and back sides. I noticed no leaks, but for safety and peace of mind,
removed half the water and shut down the tank. Here's my question: given that
the trim really doesn't support the tank, per se, can I fill it back up and use
a clamp to pull the front and back sides toward each other? Just enough to
remove the bow and not crack the trim? At first I used duct tape and it did the
trick until the lights warmed the tape up and it began to expand. The clamp
won't be visible as the large light-holding top will disguise it. Also, the
clamp ends will attach only to the plastic trip, not the aquarium Plexiglas.
<Owen, "aquarium Plexiglas". I'm thinking this is an acrylic tank. If so, just
get a piece of acrylic, 1/4" thick, cut to the width of the tank by about two
inches wide, then with acrylic cement, fasten the new cross member to the top of
the tank. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks for your help.
Owen
Acrylic repair
Salty Dog,
Thanks for the reply and the suggestions;<You're welcome> I'll give it a
shot. Our pet
shop here doesn't carry repair parts....would Lowe's or Home Depot carry
acrylic? <Owen, Don't know. If they don't have it, try a glass repair shop. If
they don't carry it they can probably lead you in the right direction. Also,
look in the Yellow Pages under acrylic. Good luck. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks
Owen
Stocking 75 gallon Marine System & Covering Unwanted Holes
Hi WWM Guys,
<Hello Spencer>
I have a 75 gal with live rock and a varied number of snails that I got for algae control as per some articles I read at WWM. My abalone and top crown snails died for some reason but the rest seem to be doing fine. I have some hair algae growing on my live rock but nobody seems to want to eat it. I'm thinking about getting a lawnmower
blenny or a black Sailfin blenny to finish up the rest of the algae. Which is going to do better?
<The Lawnmower>
I prefer the looks of the Black. I also have read article about hermit crabs (scarlet or blue legged) and some guys think they eat algae like crazy and some thing they are a waste. What is the consensus opinion?
<Don't think there is one>
One last question, I have only one corner for my overflow and the last guy that owned my tank removed the quarter sized
punch-outs next to the inlet slots and some of my livestock gets into my overflow then get stuck on my strainer and dies. Is their any device which stops up the semi-circles that have been removed?
Thanks,
Spence
<I would cut or have cut a thin piece of acrylic sheet, with overflow slots... and adhere (carefully, with acrylic solvent... this in place on the face of your currently modified overflow. Bob Fenner>
Acrylic seam is separating
Nice web site!
I have an 18 months old 190 gallon thriving reef tank, 6Lx2Wx2H
acrylic. The top seam, both front and back, is separating in several areas
(the side seams are fine).
<Yeeikes!>
My wife and I had recently moved and the tank had to be moved and set up
several times within a 5 month period. This was probably the catalyst for
my current problem. I tried injecting weld-on #4 into the gaps with no
luck. I have read (on-line) that by trying to re-bond a seam will only
weaken the existing bond.
<Possibly>
Whether this is true or not is probably not important at this point, though
it does mar the surface when the stuff drips down the front of your
tank...very nauseating, as I now have a small bow (12 inches) in the back
and a leak in the front.
I went down to my local plastics supply store and discussed the problem with
them. We decided that by bonding a 4 inch wide piece of 1/4 inch acrylic
bent at 90 degrees to the front and back of the top seams would be the best
solution. Since the bent pieces of acrylic will have a small radius on the
inner side, it was suggested that a product like weld-on #13 be applied to
the gap caused by this radius.
<Interesting...>
Hopefully you have a good mental picture of what I am describing.
As I am writing this, I realized that the outer edge of my tank forms a
sharp 90 degree angle and would need to be rounded off in order to
accommodate the bent piece being bonded to it. Round over sharp is not a
compatible fit. Soooo... I guess I'll start my questions off with this
one:
What is the best way to "cleanly" round off the top edge since I don't own a
router and would not trust myself to use one on my tank.
<Borrow or buy a router>
Can weld-on #13, or a similar product, be used to bond acrylic? If not,
what can I use and how can I avoid a mess? I am afraid that #4 dripping
down the front of my tank will cause me to go #2.
<Mmm, I would use the "thickest" (most gel-like) acrylic weld-solvent that
you can find>
It seems that I also need to seal the tank seams from the inside as
well. How can I best prepare the area to be sealed and is weld-on #13 (or
similar) the best product to use? Small pieces of coralline algae and salt
deposits have accumulated in these exposed areas.
<Is the best, the surfaces need to be absolutely clean and dry>
Are there similar products to weld-on?
<Not generally available to the consumer>
Finally, is there a better approach to this problem. A new tank is not an
option.
<Might I ask who made this tank originally? Have you contacted them? Have
you considered just cutting, attaching square (on two sides) acrylic
doweling in all corner/joints? Won't take out the bowing (likely nothing
will), but is the best shot at stopping this tank from coming apart)>
The good news is that the area of concern is limited to the top of the tank
(so far). Our corals and fish can be no healthier, my wife is a very good
marine and freshwater aquarist (sp.) and because of this, I get to believe I
am as well.
I would really appreciate any help or advice you can offer. I am picking up
the supplies mentioned above today but will hold off with any repairs until
you respond... no pressure intended... we have clamps holding things
together.
Thanks,
Jim
<Jim, have someone or folks from the "plastics supply" come by and look at
your project... they may have clamps, other ideas to help you here. Bob
Fenner>
