Cracked Acrylic Tank- RMF please comment 6/9/08
I just picked up
a used 500 gallon acrylic tank 8ft long 4ft deep 2ft tall.
<Wow,
that is a lot to pick up!>
After getting it home I noticed the bottom
panel has a few cracks.
<Yikes!>
The tank was made with 1/2in
acrylic except for the bottom which for some reason I really don’t
understand is only 1/4in.
<Cost likely, needless to say the bottom
(and the sides) are not thick enough material for this size tank. You
can see the results of this in what you have on your hands now. Think of
the bottom having the same function as the top brace, ¼” would never be
adequate for a tank this size. As for the sides, although many online
resources and calculators say ½” is enough, I am not comfortable with
any less than ¾” on a tank this size, even for the bottom. This tank in
½” will have a scary amount of bowing.><<RMF is in agreement...
particularly re the bottom... worrisome if not totally supported flat>>
With that being said is it possible to replace this with 1/2in or could
I just place another panel under that one and patch the cracks on the
inside also?
<Considering the panel is too thin to begin with, I
would simply replace it with thicker material, perhaps considering
cutting the height of the tank down in the process to a more appropriate
height for the material (20” or so, assuming there is sufficient cross
bracing on the top).>
Then there is always scraping the tank but my
wife would most likely kill me. Any help would be great.
<Do not
scrap the tank, you have gobs of usable acrylic. If you are at all handy
you can surely fabricate a more appropriate size using this material.
Good luck, Scott V.> <<RMF is
more inclined to go with the writer's suggestion here... and
anneal/solvent another piece onto the existing too-thin bottom... IF
this can be done practically... i.e., if the existing base is not too
uneven/non-planar>>
Acrylic repair 3/4/06
Hello Bob,
<Tony>
I would like your advice on repair of acrylic
tank. I have never owned an acrylic tank before. Just purchased an 180
gallon acrylic fish tank. The previous owner made 3 holes for pipes used
in an overflow sump. ( mostly for salt water). I need to plug up the
holes to house my Arowana. Any advise on how to plug up these holes..
Any suggestion would be helpful..
Thanks Tony
<I would make
these "temporary"... rather than affix the mentioned cover pieces with
solvent (as the rest of the seams)... By using Silastic (100% Silicone
Sealant) and "squares" of appropriately thick acrylic (look in the
"used/scrap bin" of a plastics dealer/fabricator), over-lapping the
holes by an inch or more, making a thin bead, smooshing the covers onto
the inside of the tank, over the holes, taping in place for a day or
so... Bob Fenner>
Re: acrylic repair 03/07/06
thank you for your help
<Oh, and I do hope/sense we will "meet
again" (same bat-fish channel plus), when you "uncover" these through
puts to make this tank part of a reef system. Cheers, BobF>
Melted acrylic 1/6/07
Hi,
I have a question
concerning a 200g acrylic sw tank. We had a problem with a T-5
light it shorted out and started a fire in our canopy and the light
was sitting on the corner of the tank and when we caught it (the
fire) it was too late
<You're very fortunate the house, folks
weren't injured as well... Am getting the chemical memory back of
such fires... Acrylics have quite/surprisingly low flash points...>
and we have a large indentation where the acrylic had melted.
<I
see this>
Can this be repaired?
<In this case, it does
appear so, yes>
And if so any suggestions on how to do it or
who to contact as we have no tank repairmen in our area.
<Yes,
can likely be burnished, buffed out... I would look in your local
"telephone directory" under "Plastics" and call folks who are listed
there locally who do fabrication...>
We are currently in
discussions with the light company and need a quote or
an explanation if it can be repaired.
Thank you very much,
Angie Lindsey
<At the very worst, the most damaged panel/s might
have to be cut away (yes, making the tank smaller) and new annealed
in their place. There was a national (U.S.) co. that in recent years
advertised doing "scratch removal" et al. work... but I am very sure
that a more local firm will be able to do this repair. Bob Fenner> |
|
Jim Dorsey, California Aquatics
Bob,
Oddly enough, Donna from
Dr. Kaplan's office [Pediatric Urological Associates] called and, as you
remember, you installed a Tru-Vu 75 Hex Tank in -oh about 1982.
<Yikes! Yes, a very nice fellow, and great office staff as I recall.>
Well, one of the kids knocked off the canopy [again] and we are having
trouble finding Aquaplex. Did Bill Montgomery finally get how of the
business?
<I don't think so... but... pls see below>
How can we do
that?
<Finally get out of the business? Wish I knew!>
Do you know
of any other acrylic canopy manufactures?
<Yes. Have San Diego
Plastics fabricate a sturdier replacement>
Thought you might get a
kick out of this one!
Check out are site @ www.californiaaquatics.com
Jim
<Very nice. Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Re: tuff acrylic
cleaning question, repair
Thanks Bob,
I ended up having to use
lighter fluid to clean this stuff off, it was caked on pretty good.
<As long as you're "right there" wiping off the excess (so it doesn't
melt the acrylic) this works pretty well>
I have another question. I
found two small chips on the corner of the bottom plate, about 1/4"
around and maybe 1/8" deep. The acrylic is 1 inch think at that location
so I don't think it will be harmful. Do you think that I can put some
acrylic glue in the chip just to give it some strength in that area.
<Might help. Have you considered adding some "square doweling" in the
corner. This stuff comes in stock sizes with two of the four sides
"square" and the other two a bit concave. You solvent (as in with
Weld-on) the two flat sides to the tank inside corners. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Repairing a hole in a sump
When I
recently tore down my tank I left a heater on in a small amount of water
in the sump. It is acrylic, It burned a hole in the bottom and side with
some bubbling of the acrylic. I was wondering if I could cut out the
affected area and glue some new plexi over the top of the cut out
area. It is a hidden sump so it doesn't matter what it looks like, just
cost a lot so I would like to recover.
Thanks,
Mike
<Actually, if the acrylic isn't too bubbled, you could just cut or have
cut some small pieces of sheet (look in an acrylic outlets "bargain" box
or ask for scraps, cut-offs...) and simply silicone them in place on the
inside, over the holes, damaged area. Bob Fenner>
Tank repair
I've a problem with the plastic trim on the top of my 55 gallon fresh
water aquarium. I've looked at many questions you've listed but did not
see mine, specifically.
It was a saltwater tank that crashed, so I
was cleaning it out thoroughly. While turning it onto its side, I
accidentally broke the cross member piece of plastic (part of the trip
on the top of the tank.) On my other 55 gallon tank, its the piece of
plastic that divides the top of the tank in order to accommodate two
separate lights. I put the tank back together, filled it with water and
began the pumping process, etc. There is a very large wooden light
holder that fits on top (lighting for salt and a 75-watter). When I put
this top in place, I noticed that the lid would not close correctly. I
looked at the front of the tank and noticed a slight bow to the plastic
strip on the front side and back side. I'm assuming that if the strip
is a bit bowed, so are the front and back sides. I noticed no leaks, but
for safety and peace of mind, removed half the water and shut down the
tank. Here's my question: given that the trim really doesn't support
the tank, per se, can I fill it back up and use a clamp to pull the
front and back sides toward each other? Just enough to remove the bow
and not crack the trim? At first I used duct tape and it did the trick
until the lights warmed the tape up and it began to expand. The clamp
won't be visible as the large light-holding top will disguise it. Also,
the clamp ends will attach only to the plastic trip, not the aquarium
Plexiglas. <Owen, "aquarium Plexiglas". I'm thinking this is an acrylic
tank. If so, just get a piece of acrylic, 1/4" thick, cut to the width
of the tank by about two inches wide, then with acrylic cement, fasten
the new cross member to the top of the tank. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks for your help.
Owen
Acrylic repair
Salty Dog,
Thanks for the reply and the suggestions;<You're welcome>
I'll give it a shot. Our pet shop here doesn't carry repair
parts....would Lowe's or Home Depot carry acrylic? <Owen, Don't know. If
they don't have it, try a glass repair shop. If they don't carry it they
can probably lead you in the right direction. Also, look in the Yellow
Pages under acrylic. Good luck. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks
Owen
Stocking 75 gallon Marine System & Covering Unwanted Holes
Hi WWM
Guys,
<Hello Spencer>
I have a 75 gal with live rock and a varied
number of snails that I got for algae control as per some articles I
read at WWM. My abalone and top crown snails died for some reason but
the rest seem to be doing fine. I have some hair algae growing on my
live rock but nobody seems to want to eat it. I'm thinking about getting
a lawnmower blenny or a black Sailfin blenny to finish up the rest of
the algae. Which is going to do better?
<The Lawnmower>
I prefer
the looks of the Black. I also have read article about hermit crabs
(scarlet or blue legged) and some guys think they eat algae like crazy
and some thing they are a waste. What is the consensus opinion?
<Don't think there is one>
One last question, I have only one corner
for my overflow and the last guy that owned my tank removed the quarter
sized punch-outs next to the inlet slots and some of my livestock gets
into my overflow then get stuck on my strainer and dies. Is their any
device which stops up the semi-circles that have been removed?
Thanks,
Spence
<I would cut or have cut a thin piece of acrylic
sheet, with overflow slots... and adhere (carefully, with acrylic
solvent... this in place on the face of your currently modified
overflow. Bob Fenner>
Acrylic seam is separating
Nice
web site!
I have an 18 months old 190 gallon thriving reef tank,
6Lx2Wx2H acrylic. The top seam, both front and back, is separating in
several areas (the side seams are fine).
<Yeeikes!>
My wife
and I had recently moved and the tank had to be moved and set up several
times within a 5 month period. This was probably the catalyst for my
current problem. I tried injecting weld-on #4 into the gaps with no
luck. I have read (on-line) that by trying to re-bond a seam will only
weaken the existing bond.
<Possibly>
Whether this is
true or not is probably not important at this point, though it does mar
the surface when the stuff drips down the front of your tank...very
nauseating, as I now have a small bow (12 inches) in the back and a leak
in the front.
I went down to my local plastics supply
store and discussed the problem with them. We decided that by bonding a
4 inch wide piece of 1/4 inch acrylic bent at 90 degrees to the front
and back of the top seams would be the best solution. Since the bent
pieces of acrylic will have a small radius on the inner side, it was
suggested that a product like weld-on #13 be applied to the gap caused
by this radius.
<Interesting...>
Hopefully you have
a good mental picture of what I am describing.
As I am writing this,
I realized that the outer edge of my tank forms a sharp 90 degree angle
and would need to be rounded off in order to accommodate the bent piece
being bonded to it. Round over sharp is not a compatible fit. Soooo...
I guess I'll start my questions off with this one:
What
is the best way to "cleanly" round off the top edge since I don't own a
router and would not trust myself to use one on my tank.
<Borrow or
buy a router>
Can weld-on #13, or a similar product, be used to bond
acrylic? If not, what can I use and how can I avoid a mess? I am
afraid that #4 dripping down the front of my tank will cause me to go
#2.
<Mmm, I would use the "thickest" (most gel-like) acrylic
weld-solvent that you can find>
It seems that I also need to seal
the tank seams from the inside as well. How can I best prepare the area
to be sealed and is weld-on #13 (or similar) the best product to
use? Small pieces of coralline algae and salt deposits have accumulated
in these exposed areas.
<Is the best, the surfaces need to be
absolutely clean and dry>
Are there similar products to weld-on?
<Not generally available to the consumer>
Finally, is there a better
approach to this problem. A new tank is not an option.
<Might I ask
who made this tank originally? Have you contacted them? Have you
considered just cutting, attaching square (on two sides) acrylic
doweling in all corner/joints? Won't take out the bowing (likely nothing
will), but is the best shot at stopping this tank from coming apart)>
The good news is that the area of concern is limited to the top of the
tank (so far). Our corals and fish can be no healthier, my wife is a
very good marine and freshwater aquarist (sp.) and because of this, I
get to believe I am as well.
I would really appreciate any help or
advice you can offer. I am picking up the supplies mentioned above
today but will hold off with any repairs until you respond... no
pressure intended... we have clamps holding things together.
Thanks,
Jim
<Jim, have someone or folks from the "plastics supply" come by
and look at your project... they may have clamps, other ideas to help
you here. Bob Fenner>
