FAQs about Fancy Basses, Subfamily
Related Articles: Fancy Basses, The Sunburst or Fathead
Related FAQs: Anthiines 1, Anthiines 2, Anthiine Identification, Anthiine Systems, Anthiine Selection, Anthiine Compatibility, Anthiine Behavior, Anthiine Feeding, Anthiine
Fish injury? 8/20/17
<12 megs of blurry pix?>
This morning, I had to move rocks in my reef tank. Before moving anything, I
took some time to peruse the tank and plan out what I wanted to do. I know I
looked over my fish and didn't see anything noteworthy.
As I was removing rocks, inside a rock was one of my lyretails. As the Rick
broke the water surface, she gave a wiggle and dropped out of the rock and into
After I finished everything, the fish began exploring their surroundings when I
noticed several large, white clumps on the side of a lyretail. I can't say for
certain it was the one in the rock.
The white spots appear to be pieces of my white substrate stuck to her side.
<Might well be>
I'm not sure if this is an injury, gravel or if I should do anything about it.
<Does look odd. I would do nothing treatment wise here. Bob
Fish injury, continued 8/20/17
My last message was sent before I was through, sorry.
I wanted to add, the white marks seemed to be raised from the skin and run along
just one side of the fish.
Thank you for any help you can give me.
<As you state/d; likely substrate. B>
re: Fish injury? 8/20/17
I think it was gravel some of its off already.
<Ah, good. B>
Sick Anthias 3/7/17
We acquired 4 Lyre Tail Anthias from a private party on 2/24. The male died
within 24 hours of acclimation. The largest female had a small but noticeable
bump beneath the scales on its side. This bump has grown and come through the
scales. I've included a picture below.
<A very bad sign...>
- She is general population tank and her attitude is good
- We are daily dosing with garlic and Selcon
- Shrimp is cleaning her
- The area has gotten worse each day.
- Do we have to quarantine her?
<I wouldn't. This fish will soon be dead... VERY likely>
- Will the stress of catching him to do that be too great?
- Does he need antibiotics? what kind and how often?
- Can antibiotics be used in display tank with what we have. Fish, corals,
stars, anemone, snails, shrimp, crabs and feather dusters.
- Is she contagious?
<Can't tell from the information provided. I'd leave all as is and hope...
Re: Sick Anthias 3/7/17
I appreciate you reviewing my email. Any general thoughts on what it is?
<A result of physical trauma, moving... Now bacterial>
Re: Sick Anthias 3/7/17
Can we does DT with antibiotics just in case?
<To be frank.... not of use. B>
Hi there. Worried my 2 female Ignitus Anthias have parasites?
They have stringy white poop and are a bit emaciated....?
<This subfamily of basses very easily suffers for lack of nutrition... Need to
be fed a few times daily, or better still; have a large, robust refugium and DSB
with RDP lighting associated (plumbed in with) their main tank to provide live
food items. At the very least an automated feeder can be hooked up to provide
nutritious and palatable pellets during the day (Hikari and Spectrum are fave
brands). Are these fish parasitized? Can't tell from looking... a fecal sample
could be netted out, examined under a microscope... One could lace their foods
with anti-protozoal (e.g. Metronidazole) and anthelminthic (e.g. Praziquantel)
medications. These ideas are gone over/archived on WWM. Write back w/ specific
questions if something is not clear, complete after reading. Bob Fenner>
Re: Parasites? 12/22/16
Fish are fed twice a day with variety of Hikari and SF brands: brine, mysis,
Spirulina brine, plankton, PE Calanus, caviar, marine angel, marine algae,
spectrum pellets periodically, 3 colors of seaweed, all sometimes laced with
Selcon, but not always.
<I'd double plus the frequency here. Good food choices>
Tank is a Red Sea Max 650 (so ~175 total volume, 30 refugium), display is 3 inch
<I'd add an inch here>
almost 5 years old, refugium with live rock, sand and macroalgae with red LED
bulb running 18 hrs/day. Glass is covered daily with countless
copepods.......Male Ignitus is very round and healthy looking, only the 2
females look poorly.
<Mmm; maybe they're being "run ragged"... I'd add two more to split up the
Other inhabitants: yellow tang, regal blue tang, blue eyed Cardinal, fox face,
Royal gramma, dragon goby, yellow watchman goby, mated spawning percula clown
pair, green mandarin goby. I can try increasing to 3 or 4 daily feelings and
using the Selcon soak daily instead of only sometimes.
<Ah yes; good>
I believe I do have some Metronidazole. Just wanted to be sure that was ok to
use in display with all other fish, live rock, inverts, coral, etc.
<Mmm; am NOT a fan of such "shotgun" approaches. I myself would NOT be treating
I do have a quarantine set up and running at all times just in case if I need to
<Thank you again for writing so lucidly. Bob Fenner>
Re: Parasites? 12/23/16
10-4 got it. Thanks a ton Bob
<Welcome Julie; and please keep us informed. BobF>
Re: Parasites? 12/23/16
Will do, although I thought of one more thing, regarding adding 2 more Anthias,
I'm wary of doing that as this male seems pretty aggressive.
<Yes; the larger part of why I suggested a higher female to the one male ratio.
Your 175 should be large enough>
I had a single one when I added the 3 (it was leftover from a batch of 5 very
small juveniles that did not survive) and within 24 hours he bullied that single
one to jumping out of the tank and he was dead when I got home.
And this was months ago even before they were "sexed" really, they were only
about an inch and a half when I got them. So I'm concerned if he bullied that
settled one when he was a new addition to the tank, how much more so would he
bully new additions now that the tank is "his" territory.....I may try
increasing the feeding and using the Selcon every
day first for a couple months to see if that helps before adding more.
<Your concern is valid. I would (use two nets! Maybe a friend with another one!)
net out the male and hold him in a plastic floating colander (spag. strainer)
for a day or two, allowing the new females to settle in. Bob Fenner>
Re: Parasites? 12/23/16
Great idea. Thanks!
<Welcome Jules. B>
Chaos in my tank. Mysterious Anthias losses
Hi. I have a 90 gallon reef tank with a 30 gallon sump and
roughly 110lbs of live rock plus more in the sump. Livestock
includes two young black clarkii clownfish approximately 1 inch each, A
small 2.5 inch Bluejaw trigger, a lawnmower blenny, a diamond goby,
misc. snails, three emerald crabs, and a sea hare.
<What species is this Aplysiid? Most are NOT compatible for hobbyist,
reef use. See WWM>
A mixture of corals like birds nest, frogspawns, Zoanthids, and a few
<And READING re Zoanthids>
I was at the LFS and told the woman that works there that I don't have
any swimmers in my tank. The Clarkiis never go far from the rock they
are hosting. The Bluejaw trigger just chases his reflection in the glass
on the left side of the tank all day. The diamond goby moves sand like
he's building a skyscraper all day long. The lawnmower blenny picks at
my glass or just sits on a rock and looks at me. None of my fish swim in
the water. When people see my tank they think it's just corals and
rarely see any fish unless they stare at it for a while. So I asked her
for suggestions on a swimmer, someone who will be active in the tank. I
told her I'm not a fan of tangs. She suggested a foxface Rabbitfish and
a few Anthias. I usually take her word for things. (She's one of the
most respected LFS owners in the area). So I picked up 4 square Anthias
(1male and 3 females) and a foxface. I realized the next day while doing
research that they require a larger tank in general, or at least the
square Anthias do. I drip acclimated the fish (separately)
<I would definitely have run all through a SOP dip/bath; as gone over on
WWM... to exclude external parasites>
and quarantined them for about a week. After the week was up a I drip
acclimated them to the display tank. I put them in with the lights out.
The foxface appeared to take the transition quite well. The four square
Anthias were another story. Three of them did great and one just laid
down in the bottom of the tank. I figured she just needed some time.
This is how the tank stayed for the next two weeks. Everybody doing
great except for the female Anthias was always laying in the bottom of
the tank. She had no sign of illness and I had read that it can take
them a while to feel comfortable so I gave her time since she looked
healthy. I had an automatic feeder with NLS pellets feeding three times
a day and I gave frozen Mysis shrimp every night. Everybody was getting
food. The female laying in the bottom would never even try to get up and
get food. I came home one day and the Anthias were nowhere to be found,
any of them. The foxface was black and in the corner. I put some food in
the tank to see if anyone would come out and everyone came out to eat
except the Anthias. The foxface even turned back to yellow and came out
to eat. I started looking through the tank and found the male square
Anthias dead under a rock, then found two other Anthias laying in the
bottom alive but seemed scared. The fourth one I have yet to find. I'm
thinking the cleanup crew already disposed of it. Not knowing what's
going on, I didn't know what to do next. The next day another Anthias
died, and then... the last Anthias died. I spoke with the lady at the
LFS and she said I have a bully.
I know Clarkii clownfish can be super aggressive but these guys are
really young and small. The blue jaw has never messed with anyone and is
scared of just about everything. She said it sounds unethical but by
<buy> some cheap peaceful fish and see who is doing the bullying. I
thought it was a bad idea but didn't know what else to do. So I bought
five Blue Chromis.
<Not a hardy species>
I put them in two days ago. Two died the first night the other three
died the second night. Then the foxface swam around the corner covered
in what looks like ich. The foxface is now in the hospital tank in hypo
salinity with ParaGuard and the heater set to 80°F. Everyone else is
doing fine. All my water parameters are good Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0,
Nitrate <10, PH 8.2. I'm thinking someone is being aggressive but I was
keeping a close eye on the tank and never saw anyone not getting along.
Clearly I have an issue. Any suggestions as to who my bully is or what
step I should take next. Other than the Foxface, no one has shown any
signs of illness and this foxface is the first time I've ever had ich in
my tank and it's been running for 2 years with no issues. I quarantine
everything before putting it in my tank and I reef dip my corals. This
is the first time I've ever really had an issue and it's frustrating.
<My guesses, probabilities lie w/ the Anthias being weak to start with,
further weakened by the quarantine process (this species is NOT "open
water", but more inclined to hide); AND poisoning via the Aplysiid
and/or Zoas. Please do the suggested searching, reading ON WWM; and
write back w/ your further input. Bob Fenner>
Group of Anthias in Distress; guesses; need data
I have an established 250gal mixed reef, ideal parameters & community fish. I
quarantined 8 Anthias (as I do all fish) and they've been in the display over 6
months - haven't added anything wet to the tank in months. A couple weeks ago
the Anthias began hiding then dying, the male was the first to go - currently 4
left. I don't see any behavioral or visual symptoms of parasites or disease,
environmental stressors or malnutrition aside from hiding. I feed a variety of
foods from frozen to flake and 2x/day.
<Are these one of the (many) touchy species of Anthiines (in other words, which
one?)... Some, like Pascalus, do tend to simply die off as you relate.
Otherwise, my guess is on collection, handling damage manifesting itself here.
Many fancy basses die a few weeks later due to being mis-needled and other
too-fast decompression influences. Do you have pix of
just-died specimens you could share? What other livestock is present in this
system (poss. harassment)>
<As many welcomes. Bob Fenner>
Bartlett's Anthias with one severe Popeye
<Am wondering why so many of your words are run together? Sticky keyboard?>
Hi Bob and crew, Thanks for all your work in answering questions. I have an
Bartlett's Anthias with one severe Popeye. He is the dominate Male in a group of
three. He had PopEye a week ago and it appeared to go away. Just today the
PopEye was back and I wanted to see if using Epsom salt in the display tank is
the proper course of treatment and how much to use.
<Yes; about a level tsp. per five actual gallons>
If not the proper treatment do you have any suggestions. I had recently added
several new coral frags 9 days ago I added corals and a few days latter
he got PopEye.
<Unilateral I take it... almost always due to physical trauma>
The PopEye looked like it went away and he appeared to get better. 4 days ago I
added several other new frags and now he has it again and he is perching on my
live rock. He has been dominate and chases the other Anthias around. I am
thinking my moving things around may have caused him to get injured. Maybe ran
into something or chases them different because of new additions.
Other things that may have been going on:
Other changes to the tank have been my calcium was 350 and my alkalinity was 8.4
DKH and I have been raising it up to 450 and I overshot to 490.
<I'd leave [Ca] in the 300s>
My tank has 116 gallons of water and I had added 20 ml of calcium on one day
calcium went up to 400 and my alkalinity remained 8.4 DKH. I waited 2 days and
added another 12ml and calcium went to 490 and my alkalinity went to 7.6 DKH. I
did a 10% water change and my calcium went to 465 and my alkalinity went to 8.7
DKH. all my other reading were consistent Temp 77 degrees, PH 8.4, specific
Will I have any issues using Epsom salt in my display to treat the fish? Is this
<Shouldn't and yes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Bartlett's Anthias with one severe Popeye....
Thanks Bob for all your help.
It turns out my sticky keys from previous post was due to writhing in word
copying and pasting to my yahoo email, the conversion must have made the spacing
I measured the amount off recommended Epsom salt and it seemed like a large
amount - 23.5 tsp - so I added the Epsom salt, but only half of what is
recommended one day and added the rest the next day. The PopEye seemed to get
better, but now is back.
<Ah; yes... exopthalmic conditions; when allowed to persist, can be the Dickens
Searching the web it sounds like using the full dose is recommended and doing it
everyday until it gets better. Should I try again and give the full dose?
<Mmm; not w/o changing some of the water out... the MgSO4 is still there; in
Would you recommend doing it daily?
<Did I refer you to reading on WWM? Do you see the search tool? Use it
or the indices. BobF>
For how many days? I am concerned about adding that much Epsom salt to the tank
and what side effects it may have. Thanks.
Re: Bartlett's Anthias with one severe Popeye
Now: Bartlett's Anthias with Popeye both eyes
Hi Bob and crew, I have a male Bartlett's Anthias with Popeye. over the past two
weeks he had Unilateral Popeye. so I treated the tank with Epsom Salt, just one
treatment spread over two days. The Anthias' eye appeared to get better one day
and worse the next and then looking better again. He appeared healthy, other the
then Popeye, still chasing the females around and he has been eating well. Today
when the lights came on he would not come out from the rockwork. After searching
for him I found him perched under the rock work with Popeye in both eyes the
initial affected eye being twice as big as the Popeye in the other . What would
be a good course of action to take with this problem?
<Internal... action... bacterial most likely. Might have diffed (bonked on
something) both sides>
And if you recommend qt any suggestions to get him out? Thanks a bunch.
<Mmm; hope... patience? Two nets... Bob Fenner>
How long in QT 3/16/15
Thanks for taking the time to read my email.
I have a sunburst Anthias & a Mandarin in my 33G QT for a month now.
<This is far longer than is prudent for these species.... the "cross over" point
in advantage vs. not is about two weeks>
Both eat mysis soaked in Zoe & Zoecon and NLS pellets.
They have been through 1 round of Prazi too... They showed no signs of
disease... Before I purchased them they had both been at the LFS for 6 months
with no sign of disease as I had seen them there for that amount of time...
<Six months?! Wow>
I added a Moorish idol
<Yikes; not an easily kept species>
to the QT before I put the Mandarin and the Anthias in... The idol lasted a week
after I put the two new additions in... The
Idol had no signs of ich.. Ate everything is sight.. His streamer was growing
everyday. Then all of the sudden, over night I found him dead on the
bottom of the tank...
<Very common. See WWM re Zanclus>
It has been 3 weeks now with just the Mandarin & Anthias... With what I have
described to you, would you advise that the fish in QT would be ready for
transfer to the main tank?
My main tank has been set up for over 2 years now... It's a 187G (60Lx30Wx24H).
Thanks for your time,
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Anthias quarantine and a new tank
Hi all I am doing a new tank build and have a few hopefully easy to
answer question. I am adding some new fish and placing some other
dish from a different, 90 gallon, display into this new tank.
I have a new 93 gallon bare bottom tank
<I'd place substrate... rationale posted on WWM>
with fully cured rock that I purchased as dry rock and cured
<... no need to cure dry rock>
for 9 months. I have only added some Tisbe
pods to the tank, no clean up crew, no algae, no other inverts, no
The tank looks great. I purchased 3 Bartlett Anthias from divers
den live aquaria and all three fish look health. <y> I decided to place
them directly in the display tank. The Anthias eat like pigs,
sleep in the rocks at night and hand <g> out in and under rocks during
the day or swim around the tank in a group. The Anthias will
come out when someone walks by the tank looking to be fed. I feed
them 3 - 4 times a day.
<Good; but better if continuous live food supplied by substrate,
The Anthias have been in the aquarium for 9 days. They seem so good I
added some of my fish from my other display, 2 small Picasso clown
fish. I want the smaller clowns to get use to the new tank before I add
other fish from my 90 gallon display all of which are healthy:
Yellow Tang, Sailfin Tang and Mystery Wrasse.
Additionally, I will be adding an ORA Randall's Assessor from divers den
and a Hector Goby, the goby is from live aquaria, not dd, and will
be getting a separate qt.
I think this is a lot of fish but I do plan on doing 3 things
1 heavy skimming,-- still need to purchase skimmer so any
recommendations would be welcome looking at vertex omega 150 or an RLSS
6 or RLSS 8 2 heavy flow to suspend waste and keep off live rock
and future corals, looking to do sps
3. frequent water changes target water changes with a siphon hose.
so my questions
1. Do you see any problems present or future with my set up and have any
2. I am concerned the Bartlett Anthias may have flukes they look great
and nothing seems wrong other than I put them in display with no qt, and
no freshwater dip just drip acclimation to the display tank water. My
concern is when things "seem" ok they can go sideways pretty quick when
it comes to marine aquariums.
Should I do anything with or to the Anthias or the tank? Dose tank
with PraziPro? Pull out fish and qt?
<I'd leave all as is now... not worth the trouble, stress of removal,
nor the addition of vermifuge at this juncture>
Thank you in advance.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Borbonius mark, scam product/s
I am worried about my borbonius Anthias. He has a mark on his side
and i determined that his spots are not flukes/Ich.
<Mmm, no; this is due to a physical trauma... the other mucus spots
likewise... not patterned like neuromast destruction/HLLE... the fish
either ran into something or something ran into it...>
He had this mark for a month and is eating normal and acting normal.
The fish also has white bumps by the eyes. I tried ruby
<Worthless... see WWM re this scam, co.>
to see if it would help, but all it did was lower my ph in which i lost
a big xenia colony, a beautiful gorgonian, a plate coral, and my maxima
I'm worried that this could get infected.
My only guess that it could be a small bite mark from my
I do not see any real aggression from my clown, but she definitely bites
me when my hands in the tank (she knows how to go between my fingers).
Anyway enclosed are some pics that i took when he stood still for me.
Lastly, my parameters are all normal (ph, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite).
My salinity is 1.026 and temp stays consistent around 78. Thank
<No treatment advised; though you may want to move either this fish or
the female clown... Separate them. Bob Fenner>
I read through the archives before messaging, but didn't find anything
on actual treatment for disease in Anthias. I have a female Bartlett's
Anthias that has several small white salt looking spots at the
end of her tail only (suspecting Ich)
<Mmm, more likely flukes/Trematodes if confined just to the caudal>
in a 10 gallon quarantine for 3 days now. I did FWD her before going into
QT after purchasing. I know they are sensitive to copper so my question
is what should I do next?
<I'd dose w/ Prazi/quantel or other vermifuge>
Can I use Paraguard? I have 2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimps, should I just put
one of them in the QT with her before trying meds?
Should I continue to FWD her, if so how often?
<I wouldn't keep dipping>
Or maybe hypo @ what salinity?
She is otherwise healthy, eating Spectrum Thera-A and frozen Brine and
Mysis soaked in Selcon. I have also read that the Anthias shouldn't
really be QT'd for a full 4 weeks, so now with signs of disease I am
unsure which path to travel.
<Keep your eye on the fish, the area calm...>
I will be getting her a male next week for company too!
<Best in groups w/ only one (alpha) male... I wouldn't quarantine more
than one in a 10 gallon>
Thanks for any guidance! Have a great weekend, Ashley
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias dis.
Thanks for your response. I only see the spots on the tail thus far...
How long do I treat with Prazi/quantel if it stays on caudal?
<... just the one time likely>
If it spreads elsewhere, then is it likely Ich?
<Highly unlikely this is Crypt... would be all over the fish>
If so, do I treat with Paraguard or what do you recommend for Ich on
Bartlett's Anthias and for how long?
<... see prev. email... wouldn't treat w/ this product>
Also I was planning on 1 male and 1 female, should this be fine or
should there be at least 2 females and 1 male?
I have a 30 gallon QT for them instead of the 10 too.
<Ah good. BobF>
Anthias with Swim Bladder Concerns, needling
I am eager for some information on how to treat a swim bladder issue.
I have a female Square Block Anthias in QT and it has a significant issue
with its swim bladder. The fish has been in QT for three weeks and
eating well during this time but has been swimming at a nose down 45
degrees. It also has a bloated appearance around the region I would
expect the swim bladder to be.
Otherwise it looks healthy and is showing great colour.
<How long have you had this fish? If new, it was likely damaged in
collection/decompressing or needling its gas bladder (post surface) for
bringing it up>
My question is how to best deflate the swim bladder. Is there an angle
at which I enter the cloaca and how deep would I need to go.
<Mmm, not so sure it's a good idea to do so, nor for me to write how to
do this on the Net... a very fine (diabetes) needle (no syringe) can be
wetted (with saliva), inserted thus a cm. or so... slight pressure
applied to the fish's sides... obvious bubbles produced>
Are there any other tips on this one. I fear if I don't do anything this
fish is doomed to swim at 45 degrees and most likely suffer from this
issue. There are no signs of any other issues.
Thanks for your help
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
QT Anthias - 5/8/2012
Evening Marc, Bobby here
I am in the process of building up stocks for my new 1200L aquarium and I have the first lot of fish in QT. I would like to purchase some
Anthias (maybe lyretail or dispar). I have read up a bit and there is a lot of suggestion that putting them into
QT will cause more harm than good. I am however very concerned with the risk of
Ich getting into my new system (especially with the tangs I am putting in it). I have a number of 100L QT tanks available for quarantine.
A valid concern
What risks do I run with adding Ich to my new tank if I don't QT these fish.
As much a risk as any other fish
If I QT am I able to hypo the Anthias or will this cause other issues.
Hypo is certainly a good way to treat for the Cryptocaryon parasite although I have found that many people struggle to maintain the salinity correctly as well as fight potential PH issues
I am almost at the point of not adding them to my tank if they create even the slightest risk of adding a disease. Thanks from an over concerned aquarist and thanks for all the help you give out with this service.
One of the concerns with treating Anthias in a quarantine scenario is making sure they are fed enough and that water quality and oxygenation levels remain high. I have treated many different species of
Anthias in Qt with Cupramine and have
never had an issue. That being said, they were fed 3-4 times a day (Watch the ammonia levels), good water flow in the tank, and weekly water changes in a cycled QT tank. The Good news is that the Lyretails that you mention, (Pseudanthias
squamipinnis) are a very hardy species and a good one to start with. Make sure you start with individuals that are eating
Swim bladder issue 2/20/12
Hello Again Bob and crew!
Took a chance on a couple borbonius Anthias and one is
suffering from swim bladder issues. He's trying to get
down but he's stuck on top. Looks bloated with red
splotches on body around bloating, is there anything that can be done
to help him?
<Mmm... I'd needle this fish... via the
Re: Swim bladder issue 2/20/12
Thanks Bob, another reminder of why I'm in the coral biz! A
small syringe work?
<One for diabetes... the needle only>
I appreciate you setting me straight, I've been told it will
correct itself to hold fish vertical mouth up in water and
slowly squeeze belly..
<Don't do this!>
Just want to give poor fellas his best shot at making to my clients
Re: Swim bladder issue; collecting damage and Anthias hlth. f's
Sorry to bother you again! Helped the one down into the rocks and
he's been hiding ever since, haven't tried to get him out to
puncture the bladder.
Both are already accepting Mysis shrimp, can the fish regulate without
help or is it a given this will have to be done.
<Physoclistous fishes do have mechanisms for filling/emptying this
hydrostatic (and more) organ... but ones that are so damaged as to have
trouble, floating, often are much aided by needling. This is a stock
procedure in the collecting of many tropical fishes at depth>
On a lighter note was hoping you'd be out for Reefstock next month,
going to get on Jake to get you back out here!!!
<Ahh! I have a new "pitch" (presentation) on setting up a
new collecting station in Fiji... including a whole bunch of
<And you. BobF>
Sick Anthias 12/15/10
I have a sick Anthias.
<Is this your only specimen?>
At first, I thought it was injured, but after perusing through
your website, I'm afraid that it may be infected with a
<Mmm, "what came first...?" This fish appears
Please see the attached photo. My apologies for the off-focus,
but I think you'll be able to see the lesions. New lesions
seem to be developing daily. It comes out when I feed, but it is
not eating. Presently, it is hiding in the live rock. It has
shown the lesions for about a week.
My question is, how imperative is it that I remove this fish from
What is the risk of infection to the other fish, and how would
the infection be passed?
<Mycobacteria have been demonstrated to be quite prevalent in
captive systems... How to put this; most all aquarium fishes
"have" some present, but below symptomatic
I do have a UV sterilizer running - might this prevent the
infection from spreading?
<Indirectly it may well help, by improving water
Is there any chance that it will recover?
I've had the Anthias for just a couple of months (from
LiveAquaria). It arrived looking very healthy. My other fish are:
Blue-green Chromis, Pajama Cardinal,
<These two are also shoaling/schooling species>
Lavender Tang, Foxface, Pygmy Angel (Flame), Lawnmower Blenny (in
a 110 gallon reef tank).
Thanks for your time and help.
<Mmm, well... the one fish may just be lacking nutrition
(I'd supplement foods, add vitamin/HUFA mix directly to the
system/water as well), it may be overly-stressed by being kept
solitarily, in too small a volume... It might have gotten stung
or being poisoned by your Cnidarian life... I would not move it,
but would try the supplementation. Are you familiar w/ searching
on WWM? Bob Fenner>
Re: Sick Anthias 12/15/10
Thank you for your quick reply. I am feeling more hopeful about
I will look into supplementation as you have suggested. Yes, I am
familiar with WWM searching. Searching through the site yesterday
resulted in some pondering on my part. It is in regards to
feeding, both generally, and specifically to Anthias.
I always thought I was a little heavy-handed when feeding,
thereby creating excessive DOC and resulting in nuisance algae
(been scolded by other aquarist), but I saw on the site that one
aquarist who was feeding one frozen cube a day (same as me, for
about the same number of fish) was told that it was not
<Anthiines/Fancy Basses feed almost continuously during light
hours, particularly on incoming currents that bring
zooplankton... They need food a few times a day, even better, fed
more or less continuously through large, bountiful
It seems to be difficult to determine exactly what the proper
<Best gauged through the appearance, behavior of the
livestock. As mentioned, your fish has a low index of
I do have two hang-on refugiums on the tank, and the Anthias used
to hang out at the refugium outlet grabbing the 'pods as they
And it also comes out at night when I feed the corals twice per
week (Reef Nutrition ArctiPods and RotiFeast).
<Unusual to be feeding at this time, and a further indication
that it is starving>
Well, it seems I made a mistake thinking that this particular
Anthias species (Bicolor) would be fine as a solitary
<They are not really. All occasions I have found them in the
wild they have been living in groups, never alone>
That conclusion was based on the information from the LiveAquaria
When it was feeling better, it would hang out with the Pajama
Cardinal (who is the last of a group of six from way back. Same
for the Chromis - I have two left from a group of six from
several years ago.)
I guess now the challenge is to try to get it to eat.
Thanks so much.
Pop eye in school of pink Anthias
Hi WWM Crew,
Thanks for a very interesting site.
I have a school of 7 pink Anthias in a 40g quarantine system.
<Mmm, am a big fan of expediting the processing of Anthiines... They
badly suffer for being in small, unstable bodies of water>
The water quality is good, with 5g changes twice a week, and the system
has a great skimmer on it and a UV sterilizer. They've been in
there for about 2 weeks. About a week ago one of them began to show
some tail rot,
and a few days later a different one got pop eye in one eye. Now three
of them have pop eye, one of them in both eyes. The tail rot
doesn't seem to be getting any worse (and that one doesn't have
any pop eye). They are all still eating well.
<Could be "just stress"... or hypersaturation of gas...
likely via the skimmer>
My relevant water parameters:
I don't think this is environmental,
<I do... that there is more than one specimen thus afflicted points
and I don't think it's trauma related. So that means either
bacterial or fungal, right? My question is: how do you recommend I
<If these fish are "clean"... which is very likely the
case, I'd summarily move them to their permanent quarters>
The internet does not seem to have a consensus opinion on how to
<I would not "treat". Bob Fenner>
Question regarding Lymphocystis --
Your site has been immensely helpful to me as I get underway in
I've been in the hobby for 8 months and am having my first
brush with disease. A week ago I had three female lyretail
Anthias delivered to me.
One of them came with some white "stuff" on the edge of
her tail that I didn't notice until she was already in the
tank. I was hopeful that it would clear up on its own being in
the clean water, but the white "stuff" has grown even
<I see this>
At first I thought it was fungus, but then I read online that
fungus in saltwater fish is extremely rare. After doing some
internet research, I came across Lymphocystis. I think that's
what it may be.
<I do too>
It looks like cottage cheese on her tail. She is very active and
eating well. I read that Lymphocystis is not extremely
contagious; but whatever this is, is definitely spreading quickly
in my tank. My female flame wrasse, as well as pygmy angel, have
some white spots on their side fins,
<Mmm, these spots on the other fishes could be something else
and my male clownfish has some cream/pink-ish lumps on his side.
It has spread this much in a week's timeframe. Do you think
it could be Lymphocystis, or does it sound like fungus?
<The material on the Anthiine pictured is likely Lymph, the
others... not. Judging by your descriptions and the rapidity of
I've enclosed a photo of the Anthias. It is not the best, but
it's very hard to get a clear picture of an active fish!
Again, the white on her tail looks like cottage cheese, and the
round parts keep growing larger.
Any help and advice you could give is greatly appreciated! Thank
you for taking the time to read this.
<Mmm... where to begin? Likely at the beginning... of
ID, prevention and treatment: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Peruse at your leisure... Do send along your further
observations, keep good notes of your actions. Bob Fenner>
Re: Question regarding Lymphocystis
Thank you so much for your quick response! I will read up on that
link you sent me and will let you know how my Anthias and other
fish are doing.
Re: Question regarding Lymphocystis -
Just wanted to give you an update on the Lymphocystis situation.
The Anthias with the Lympho. on her tail still looks the
<This viral syndrome often takes months to resolve, given even
excellent conditions, nutrition. Please read here:
and the linked files above>
The growths haven't gotten any larger (thank goodness!). The
flame wrasse looks better as well, so I think you are right, and
she has a little case of something else. However, my clown is
getting worse. He is covered in beige/pink patches and wart-like
<? Is this fish being stung by something? Please send along
so I do believe he has the Lymphocystis.
<Mmm, doesn't "look" like this>
He was always thin and kind of sickly, so I'm not surprised
he would catch it. So far no one else is showing any signs of the
Thank you for all your help and providing me the links to those
pages. They were very helpful!
White spot on Anthias (not Ick), Lymphocystis
I cannot seem to determine what is on my female Lyretail Anthias.
I have three small females in a qt tank for 6 days now. It
appeared on day 2 and seems to be increasing a little? They are
all super active and I feed them vitamin soaked Mysis three times
a day. It appears to be a little white bulge, maybe similar to a
little piece of cauliflower? I have furan two by aquarium Pharm,
would this be helpful to dose? I included a picture, not super
good but after 40 pics it's the best I got :)
<Looks like Lymphocystis to me, a viral infection that the
furan will not be effective against. While there is no real
treatment for this disease it does not usually cause problems
unless it grows over the mouth or gills which is not the case
here, and most likely will eventually fade as the fish's
immune system catches up to the infection.>
Re: White spot on Anthias (not Ick),
Thank you very much for the reply.
From a little research it seems my best course of action would be
to leave all three females in qt until there are no more signs of
the virus so this does not spread to my main tank?
<Lymphocystis is not terribly contagious, so there is not too
much risk there. If they are otherwise healthy at the end of the
QT period I would add them to the main tank.>
Dispar Infection 1/20/10
I Have a question for you regarding bacterial infection on
Anthias. I have been through the FAQ and I would like to show you
the specific problem I have as its not talked about in depth. The
Pictures are attached.
<I see one>
The tank is 3000L, and I have 4 x bicolour Anthias which have
been unaffected, eat anything given. The 4 x Dispar have been in
the system for 3 months, and also did eat according to what the
bicolour Anthias have shown them.
<Well-stated and related>
All the sudden, without warning, they developed a bump/line down
their right side, in the same spot on all fish, and then it went
red within a day or so, and now they are dropping off 1 by 1. As
I said the Bicolour are unaffected.
I have a few tangs in there, but I don't suspect a wound first and
then infection, as the damaged area is exactly the same spot on
the dispars, and I doubt this coincidence. Is there some sort of
bacteria that affects these fish, that seems to arise in the same
area or maybe internal organ?
<Mmm, I don't think so... given the time frame... having
these 3 months as you state>
I had a square block Anthias months ago which developed the same
red line, on the same area as this as well.
<Mmmm, me no likee>
They contract this problem very quickly and die within days.
<Am tempted to suggest some sort of "rapid onset"
(bacterial) necrosis syndrome... borne of "stress"...
the markings (though hard to make out) do remind me of
Mycobacterium (marinum)... DO take extreme care if/when placing
your hands/arms in the tank in any case... and DO see the Net,
re. As to "cure"... perhaps improvements in the
environment (aspects like ORP are greatly useful as measures),
boosting the immune systems et al. nutritionally (have you tried
Spectrum pelleted foods?) may be of use here.
Otherwise, I do encourage you to prepare, save, and share the
deceased specimens with a fish pathologist... There are a few
about... Have you access to a large library, college, with a life
science dept.? A cursory read through Ed. Noga's "Fish
Disease, Diagnosis & Treatment" is highly recommended.
Is My Anthias Sick or Just Lazy? (most likely the
first, unfortunately) -- 11/14/09
We have 3 female Lyre-tail Anthias that we put into our tank about 2
weeks ago. 2 of them appear absolutely fine and swim about all day
long. However, one of them tends to just hang upside down (mouth toward
the bottom of the tank, tail up) and just stays in one spot, but she is
capable of swimming, if another fish comes into her area, she'll
swim away normally. She is also taken to sitting in among the live rock
of the tank, not looking sick, but just being very still.
She also doesn't rush the food like the others. She might have a
tiny piece or 2 when they are fed, but not the way the others eat.
Overall, she looks fine, but her behavior seems abnormal. None of the
other fish in the tank (clown, 3 bar gobies, blue damsel, bi-color
angel and scooter blenny) seem to be picking on her.
<<Or at least that you have noticed>>
I just wonder if I should be concerned about her.
<<Probably, though there's little you can do here. This fish
may have been somehow damaged during capture/transport before you
acquired it 'or it may be suffering from an internal
parasite 'or it may be the target of the very normal
conspecific aggression displayed amongst this family of fishes and
especially among this particular species; and something that is
worsened when these fish are kept in a 'too small' display.
There is really nothing you can do for the first two conditions at this
point other than to continue to provide optimum water conditions, and
maybe a 'parasitic treated' food, though this latter is moot
once the fish has stopped eating well. The third condition can only be
improved by placing the group in a suitably large display (at least 6ft
in my opinion) if not already, along with increasing the number of
conspecifics (2-3 more individuals) to further dilute aggression.
Though this species is considered on of the 'more suitable'
Anthiine species for aquarium keeping, it is by no means an
'easy' fish to keep. For most hobbyists, especially if new to
keeping Anthiines, I like to suggest Pseudanthias bartlettorum
(Bartlett's Anthias) as a smaller, hardier, and 'slightly more
social' species of Anthiine which can be kept in a small group (5
individuals) in smaller systems (75g). Or if simply looking for a
schooling fish then try one of the much easier to keep, in my opinion,
social species of Cardinalfishes (e.g. - Apogon leptacanthus,
Sphaeramia nematoptera, etc.)>>
Thanks for any advice or thoughts you an offer.
<<Happy to share'¦ EricR>>
Bartlett's Anthias dying 7/23/09
I need help with my Bartlett's Anthias. I have two groups of these
fish, 1 male and several females in each group plus three separate
males. They were brought in directly from Hawaii.
<No... this species doesn't occur t/here>
They arrived in great condition and every one was drip acclimated to
the quarantine systems. Each quarantine tank
<Most Anthiine species I would not quarantine... better to at most
dip/bath and place in their permanent setting... Much more to lose than
gain by keeping in small settings, in small groups...>
was 30 gallons and each received at most 7 Anthias (1 male in each
group) which are all on the small side. From day one they have been
active, beautifully colored and eating 4 - 5 meals a day, rotating
between mysis, enriched brine, fresh chopped shrimp, clam, several
types of flakes and marine pellets. For the first several days everyone
was fine. After about a week, one fish started to sit on the bottom,
colors darkened, still eating.
Put into a hospital tank for observation and it died overnight. Two
days latter same scenario. Three days latter everyone was swimming and
eating still looking great, than literally from one minute to the next
another fish was sitting on the bottom, same as described except the
fish had red blotches along the abdomen that looked like bruises,
within an hour gone. a few days later another fish has the same red
marks but the skin looks as if it were sliced with a knife, This one
went into a hospital tank, Kanamycin, erythromycin dead in half an
hour. All the other fish still look great and eating everything
offered. A week later everyone still looked good and I am thinking the
problem has stopped. I just gave them their third meal and 15 minutes
later another fish is sitting on the bottom, with red bruise like
marks. I just turned of the lights, I am disheartened by the whole
thing, at 47 years old with more then 27 years of keeping marine fish
and corals I still cannot take the fish or for that matter anything
else dying lightly.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
<Perhaps, along with "simple stress", some delayed
"bruising" from collection, holding, shipping... Could be
expression of a bacterium (Myco...) or even a protozoan (need a
'scope...). At any length, the added stress mentioned above could
be avoided... I would not isolate this subfamily... Bob Fenner>
Re: re: Bartlett's Anthias dying
Thanks for the response,
I didn't mean that they were from Hawaii, rather the exporter is
from Hawaii, I got them as part of a bigger order tangs flames etc.
I put them in QT because I figured he is holding them and they were
exposed to who knows what.
As a rule should I avoid these fish, I have a newly set up 300 gallon
system and I wanted to add them.
Also the one fish sick right now, the red area is deepening into the
skin and the breathing is much faster, until I hear from you I guess I
will add Kanamycin,
<... misspelled. Please, read:
and the linked files above. BobF>
Also the females that are with him should I add them to the tank, leave
them for treatment?
Anthias question... hlth. 4/15/09
Hey crew! I recently purchased 3 Anthias from my LFS.
I brought them
home and kept them in qt for about 8 days. All fish were eating well
and looked fine so I acclimated them to my display tank. Now three days
later I have noticed a spot on the male Anthias:( It is only a small
the lateral line of this fish. Is there anyway you could tell me what
it may possibly be?
My display is a reef set-up, and I would hate for it to be anything
serious. Once again all fish are acting normal, eating and swimming
normally. This grain like spot is the same color of the fishes skin,
about the size of a grain of sand. Any help would be much
<I would not over-react at this juncture... But perhaps be reading
on WWM re parasitic disease of marine fishes. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias question 4/16/09
The species is Dispar, and it is a male.? Paired with 2 females of the
same genus and species.
<I see... a good captive choice and sex ratio for a hobby system. I
would still hold off treating, moving. B>
Hunchback Lyretail Anthias ~ 01/07/09 Hello,
<<Hiya Mike>> I am having a problem where my female
Lyretail Anthias are developing a "hunchback" kinked
spine. <<Mmm'¦>> These fish were purchased
about a year ago from Live Aquaria. <<A reputable vendor,
in my opinion>> I have kept groups of Anthias in previous
tanks successfully and never saw this problem. <<Neither
have I>> When I noticed the problem, the Anthias in the
tank consisted of 2 female bimacs, 3 female Lyretails, and 1 male
Lyretail. Their tank is a 90g reef. I noticed two of the female
Lyretails developing the condition - one was definitely worse
than the other. The condition slowly progressed for months, until
one finally died in the fall. Now the second fish's condition
is deteriorating to the point of the first fish I lost - I expect
to lose it within weeks. I believe the final female Lyretail is
also starting to develop the issue. The male and the bimacs are
unaffected. <<Thus far'¦ Will keep fingers
crossed>> The effected fish are still eating well, but they
spend a lot of time resting on the substrate. When they do swim,
they swim with clamped fins and by wiggling the body.
<<Very bad signs>> The body is not carried
horizontally in the water column like it should be. I'm not
sure if something happened to these fish before I got them, and
it is developing as they grow, or if it is because of something I
am doing? <<The condition could indeed be genetic
(especially if these fish were collected from the same group in
the wild), but perhaps this could also be a bacterial infection
causing the curvature or *hunching* of the spine. This is often
the case with freshwater fishes, and though I haven't seen it
in marines (that I recall), I suppose it could be so. In fact, I
have heard that with freshwater fishes this is sometimes a result
of a TB virus infection. The best course here is likely to
euthanize this and any other fishes displaying similar symptoms.
There are several ways to accomplish this which you can read
about here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasiafaqs.htm . You
should probably also consider wearing gloves when
capturing/handling these fish>> They get fed a huge variety
of foods. <<Vitamin/nutritional deficiencies did also cross
my mind>> Until recently I was feeding a cube of frozen
food per feeding, twice daily. <<Just a single cube? I
would feed more. I would think at least two cubes for the
Anthiines you listed, alone. And depending on your overall
stocking plan, likely more. You will find that your fishes will
be healthier, more colorful, and probably less aggressive, if
*well* fed>> Basically I buy every type of frozen food and
cycle through them. I use Sally's San Francisco Bay Brand
(SFB) Emerald Entree, SFB Plankton, SFB Spirulina Enriched Brine
Shrimp, SFB Marine Cuisine, SFB Mysis, Hikari Bloodworms, Hikari
Daphnia, Hikari Krill, Cyclop-eeze, Roe (from an Asian grocery),
<Mmm, not likely Cyclops roe/eggs... but the adults. RMF>
Ocean Nutrition (ON) Prime Reef, ON Formula Two, ON Angel
Formula, and ON Special Formula VHP. I have them all in a stack
in the freezer and work my way through the pile. <<Very
good'¦ And this is an excellent assortment of foods.
But do consider feeding *several* at a time>> Recently
(about 2 months ago) I also added an automatic feeder feeding an
additional 4 times daily with a similar variety of dried foods
(mix of various Ocean Nutrition, Spectrum, etc pellets and
flakes). <<Ah, excellent'¦ Hopefully these
additional offerings are accepted by all'¦>>
This is a mixed reef with a focus on SPS, so water conditions are
pretty good. 35ppt, 420 Ca, 9 Alk, 20ppm nitrate (been trying to
get this lower for a while to no avail). <<Yes'¦
Doesn't (actually shouldn't) be zero, but should be less
than half this reading for this tank>> There was a time in
the past about a year ago, around the time that I got the Anthias
where the nitrates were much higher, enough to take a toll on
some of my stony corals. <<Uh-oh>> Not sure if that
could lead to something like this. <<Not directly maybe but
the stress on the fishes re, with subsequent depression of their
immune systems, may lead to such complaints>> Stray voltage
was suggested, but I've tested and the readings are low (also
have a grounding probe). <<Hmm, yes'¦ Another
possibility here then I think'¦ Consider the
possibility the ground-probe only worsens such problems by
*completing* a circuit and providing a continuous path for the
electrons. In other words, a *current of electricity* as
caused/provided by the ground is worse than any *stray voltage*.
Have a read here and see what you think:
>> I'm not sure whether this is a disease and could
spread, or is environmentally caused, or simply out of my control
all together. <<Not out of your control'¦ Just
need to determine the cause to come up with the best solution.
Right now, considering you do say you show stray voltage in the
tank, I would remove the ground probe and see what develops. If
the fish continues to worsen then I think you should consider
removing and destroying>> I attached some pictures of the
fish - notice the exaggerated curve in the beginning of the
lateral line. <<Yes, I see this. Definitely something
amiss>> Sorry for the long email, thanks for your time.
Mike Meyer <<No problem Mike. I will also ask Bob if he
sees this to add his spin on the problem here. Regards, Eric
Russell>> <Other than the probable influences
mentioned... lack or mal-nutrition, genetics, infectious
disease... possibly "old-age" is about all I would add
as a conjecture. RMF>
Concerns about carberryi Anthias 10/23/08 Dear
Crew, <Carolyn> Am at a loss to how to help one of my fish and
can't find anything in the FAQ that fully covers it, so here
goes... About 2 months ago I bought a shoal of 4 carberryi Anthias (1
male, 3 females), all of which went immediately into QT <Mmm, most
Anthiine species are iffy in terms of such isolation... there is a
question of balance, are they better off so accommodated or is it
better to hasten them along, place directly into the DT?> with a
Copperband bought at the same time. The Copperband showed signs of
illness within days and the Anthias removed to a second QT in case
there was any infection (the CB later died). All was fine, all Anthias
eating voraciously and on lots of different prepared foods (krill
Pacifica a firm favourite). <Good> About 2 weeks into QT, the
male Anthias began to look as if he was having swim bladder problems,
not feeding as well and swimming against the side of the tank as if for
support. On Bobs advice, all four were moved to the display tank at
that point to give them access to pods etc. <Good> The male has
never recovered and seems to be slowly starving - his belly is now
almost concave and his colour is very pale. <Rats!> The dominant
female has now changed sex and he together with the two females are
looking very healthy (good bright colouring, eating very well, fed
twice daily + a third time if I can work from home), plus all three are
growing well. Its the little male I'm worried about. I've come
to the conclusion that he'll probably never improve and will
eventually starve to death. <Is a common result...> He shows no
interest in food at all even when fed in isolation (which we've
tried in conjunction with SeaChem Para Guard which was recommended as a
good all round treatment?). The tank/water details are: ammonia and
nitrite 0, nitrate <5ppm, temperature 26 Celsius, SG 1.026 (tank
size 120 gallon). Is this also your opinion? If so, how is the most
humane way to deal with him - I don't want him to slowly die from
starvation. <Am given to not giving up... do you have a refugium
that you can move this fish to? This is what I would do. BobF> Many
thanks in advance, Carolyn
re: concerns about carberryi Anthias 10/23/08 Dear
Bob, Many thanks once again for your help - we do indeed have refugium,
as part of the sump system under the tank, so will move him across and
see if we can't bring him round! Carolyn <Ahh! Good. Let us hope
the food, respite there will help this fish to rally. Thank you for
this follow-up. BobF>
Unsure how to treat ill Anthias? 9/24/08 Dear Crew,
<Carolyn> Apologies if this comes up elsewhere - I've had a
read through the FAQs and articles but can't find the answer!
<May not "be there"> I currently have 4 small (2-2.5in)
Nemanthias carberryi in a QT, they've been in for 2 weeks but
I'm intending on keeping them in for another 3 (they were
originally in with a Copperband which died within 1 week of a suspected
infection, the Anthias were moved to a separate tank and the QT
restarted). All four fish have been feeding very well up until this
morning, when I notic ed the male wasn't showing any interest in
food. <Mmm, a couple of things... this genus is found in large
shoals (social animals) and don't generally do well in quarantine.
By and large I'm an advocate of perfunctory acclimation, placement
of Anthiines> He looks slightly paler than yesterday and his eyes
are definitely paler than the females (sex difference?), <Maybe>
and he's remaining in one spot rather than swimming with the
others. I managed to get a good look at him and he has brown tips to
his caudal fins. He seems to be breathing more rapidly than usual and
has very slight red marks on his snout. The tank is only small, approx.
30-40l so I do fairly large water changes daily (taken from the display
tank) <Good> to keep water quality good. Ammonia and nitrite are
0, nitrate is approx. 10-15ppm. pH is 8.3, temperature 78 Fahrenheit
and specific gravity 1.025. Despite eating the fish don't seem to
be getting any fatter. Is this a case where all I can do is keep water
quality high and hope for the best, or is there something I can do to
help this little guy? Many thanks, Carolyn <I'd move into the
main display. There may be somethings re this here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/anthiselfaqs.htm Bob Fenner>
Re: unsure how to treat ill Anthias? 9/24/08 Dear
Bob, Thanks for the reply - once again I owe you and the rest of the
crew my sanity! You truly are a mine of information, and I have to say
I'm looking forward to my next dives even more for learning about
each species through this hobby. <Ahh!> Best wishes, Carolyn
<And you, BobF>
Re: Angelfish in large aquarium, Anthias hlth., Damsel
sel. 8/13/08 Well, the other reason I'm hesitant to go the
Anthias route is quarantine. <By and large I would not quarantine
this subfamilies' members... Summarily dip/bath and place> I
know Anthias are typically hard to feed at first and require some room,
I'd hate to try to quarantine a school of 10 Anthias without having
any live rock or a big tank. I've got two 29g tanks I can use as
quarantine, so I could put 5 in each but still with them being such
poor frozen food eaters I think I might have some bad luck there.
Although my Lyretail Anthias I've had in the past always ate frozen
meaty foods just fine, I didn't notice them doing it for a month or
so, most of them just seemed to live off what was in the tank and once
they got really comfortable, then they started chasing around my frozen
bits of meat. I guess I better go read in your Anthias section, again
:) I haven't perused that section since I first discovered WWM 2
years ago. <New/er all the time> Larger species of schooling
damsels? Can you give a name or two of specific types so I can do some
research? <See... WWM... Perhaps just common Chromis viridis>
Now, not that I think for a minute you don't know what you're
talking about :) but I've got Semilarvatus B/F (2) in the tank, a
purple tang, a Desjardini sailfin tang, checkerboard wrasse and
hopefully soon to come a Emperor and Queen angel. Is there really a
species of damsel that wont frighten the B/F? <? Oh yes... there are
several (from the ME meaning many) schooling species that are
relatively easygoing> They are only about 3 inches right now. Very
piggish and healthy eaters, but I've just heard such bad things
about damsels. <Avoid the territorial "individual"
species...> I'll definitely send some pictures along of my
efforts. It might still be a while until I do some rock bommies but it
will make a good winter project. I wont be putting the two bigger
angels into the tank for at least another month, more likely 2 or 3, so
I've got some time to decide what course I want to take, or even if
I want to attempt two angels, I might still just stick with the
Emperor. <Ok> I don't know if you ever get tired of hearing
it, but I sure appreciate the work you and your crew do. I've
learned what scientists term "a freaking ton" and learn more
everyday. My fish and I both appreciate it, the former more than the
latter I'm sure. Grant <Ah, welcome! BobF>
Anthias community ailment, 3/22/08 I'm
losing Anthias (p. squamipinnis, I had 4), and am trying to
figure out why. The setup is a standard 120g SPS reef. It's 6
months old, but all transferred from a 3 year old 38g, plus some
new live rock. Parameters have been very stable and what
you'd expect for a hard coral dominated reef. The only
hiccup, and I bring it up in case it's potentially related,
was a recent dip in alkalinity (as low as 6dKH) when I changed to
new calcium reactor media, which wasn't as efficient with the
existing bubble count. Problem solved, back at 11dKH over a few
days. <Shouldn't be a factor...> A week ago, I lost 2
of the Anthias. One male, one female. That left two more females.
I later found one of their carcasses inside a hitchhiker
crab's cavern. The crab is unidentified, but clearly a meat
eater, with cerated, sharp claws. I had assumed he went hunting,
<Mmm, not Anthiines... and not two at once...> but
tonight's events lead me to consider otherwise. Tonight,
another female died. She hadn't left the sandbed all day, and
had been gasping heavily and listing. She seems unscathed
cosmetically, completely normal looking. This made me wonder if
the crab was only an opportunistic scavenger. <Very likely
so> Either way, there are no signs that the crab has made any
contact with this third Anthias. Currently, the fourth Anthias
remains active, but won't come out of the rocks much.
<Mmmm, are social animals...> I am forced to look at
internal health issues. All Anthias were eating wonderfully up
until they were missing. Colors were vibrant, bodies were nice
and fat. Do you know of anything that would systematically wipe
out an entire community of Anthias? <No... not really... Can
speculate though> The only other three fish in the tank
(Anthias were actually added first) are a mature Copperband
butterfly, juvenile Sailfin tang (a. veliferum) and small Foxface
(s. unimaculatus). These three fish are behaving completely
normal, and appear to be in perfect health. There have been no
signs of aggression in the tank. All fish have been perfectly,
socially active. Disease? Parasite? Pathogen? Another water
quality issue? This was all so sudden. Thank you for your
tireless efforts, Jason Wedehase <Mmm, due to the healthy
presence of the three other fish species... and the lack of other
symptoms, I'm given to guess re the possible involvement of
food here... What 'zooplankter' equivalent do you feed?
Has it possibly "gone bad"? Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias community ailment, 3/22/08 The
Anthias and CBB have always received the only thing they would
eat, frozen mysis, specifically PE brand. This is the main staple
of the tank, and every fish eats it as their primary diet. This
is also the exact same batch I use to feed an Aurora Goby in my
nano. Is there a chance the Anthias are more susceptible or
"weaker" than all the other fish? <Mmm, not much,
no> I started using this last batch less than two weeks ago,
and in this batch I mixed in a little bit of Cyclop-Eeze powder.
Perhaps the powder is bad. I'll replace the food immediately,
just in case. <A good plan... I would "enlarge" the
food selection here in any case. Mysis (is it relicta?) are not
nutritionally complete year in year out. B>
Anthiinae Placement/Chaetomorpha Growth --
02/08/08 Hey crew, <<Hello>> This is my first time
writing, though I've been visiting your web site for almost a year
now. <<Welcome then'¦ How may I assist?>>
Because of WWM and very a helpful LFS (ALL ABOUT FISH in Concord, CA)
my 125g long is a thriving soft/LPSs reef. <<Ah, very nice to
know>> My current stock: 1- 6" Blonde Naso 1- 5"
Emperor Angel <<Do be aware, this tank is not large enough for
the above mentioned fishes for the long-term. As these grow they will
need twice this volume to preclude developmental/behavioral/health
issues>> 1-2.5" Purple Firefish 1 large Colt Coral 1 med
Frogspawn Misc. mushrooms, hermit crabs, snails, etc... I have a 40g
'fuge (Chaetomorpha) <<Excellent>> Euro-reef RS100
skimmer <<I do like this brand of skimmer'¦ I have an
(old?) CS12-3 that a couple of the Sedra pumps just died on. I replaced
all with a trio of the ER-modded Eheim 1262 pumps and
WOW 'falling in love with this skimmer all over again!
'¦but enough about me [sheepish-grin]>> There are no
water quality issues; I do 20g weekly water changes, sometimes more.
<<This 'is' about the single-best thing hobbyists can do
for their systems>> My Emperor and Naso are my "Pets"
and will readily eat out of my hand. <<Yes, can become quite
'personable'>> After several months of waiting, my LFS
received 9 Bartlett's Anthias (1 male, 8 female). <<A very
aquarium hardy species>> Would this be too many? <<Right
now, no 'but do keep in mind the future requirements of the
tang and angel>> How long to qt? <<I don't recommend
quarantine for Anthiines'¦best to place directly in the
display>> I have a 29g FOWLR (6 months old or set up my 55g
(would be bare) what would be the best protocol? <<As
stated>> Also I have read/heard conflicting facts on the growth
of Chaetomorpha algae. I have a very slow growth rate. I have 40 watts
of PC lighting on a reverse cycle. PO4 is undetectable, NO3 10-15 (API
and Red Sea test kits) any thoughts or suggestions? <<A
couple'¦ Try boosting both light intensity (65w+) and
spectral quality (5000K-6500K), and flow (add a small powerhead for
circulation) to the refugium. Regards, EricR>>
Help with possible bacterial infection? Anthias
hlth., sel. -11/18/07 Hello crew, <Harry> I had
purchased 3 Bartlett's Anthias from a LFS. They were eating
fine at the store and looked healthy. I brought them home and put
them in my 10G QT (small I know) but I didn't know that
Anthias need a bigger QT, I do now. All was well for 5 days, then
they stopped eating and were staying down at the bottom and they
were rapidly breathing and 1 was flashing on the bottom of the
tank I think. they showed no interest in food at all. <I hope
you moved them post haste> Someone suggested maybe it was
stress related due to the small space, so I moved them to a spare
40g holding tank that has live rock, mushrooms and various other
coral that I don't know what to do with yet. The morning
after I woke up to find that 2 of the Anthias had no tails at
all. It was like they rotted off or something ate them off.
Someone suggested maybe it was Marine velvet. <Mmm, no. IF
Amyloodinium they'd be dead> I looked up the symptoms but
I'm not sure. Could it have been aggression related. <Only
barely> The first Anthias to die out of the 3 looked normal
its tail was intact, no visible injuries. the other 2 who's
bodies looked like they were rotting away died the day after.
Could it be bacterial in nature? <After effect, yes... as in
decomposition. Root causal, no> I'm hoping that it is
Marine velvet because a fallow period in the 40 will eradicate
it. Now what if it is bacterial or viral what do I do with all
the live rock and coral that is in the 40 that I infected. How do
I treat the rock and coral with out killing it. Will a fallow
period work with bacterial infections. Any information on what it
could have been would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Harry <I
have high confidence that the "cause" here is/was
simply stress... Anthiines almost always need larger quarters to
feel safe... and Bartlett's are a highly anxious species...
By and large I advise simply placing them sans other protocols,
including quarantine, dipping... Bob Fenner>
Re: help with possible bacterial infection? (Bob
Fenner), Anthiines hlth. 11/19/07 Mr. Fenner, <Harry>
Thank you for the great information. I'm surprised that they
would just "rot away" over nite due to stress <This
sort of rotting can proceed surprisingly quickly... is aided by
decomposers> but with this hobby I learn something new
everyday. What minimum tank size would you recommend for
QT'ing a species like Anthias that is more sensitive.
<Mmm, of this size animal... at least the volume and shape of
a 29 stock... A/the forty would be better> Also do I have
anything to worry about in the 40 that they were housed for 2
days before they died regarding "bad" bacteria.
<Mmm, no... with a few weeks time passing, these will
"die back" both in numbers and virulence> The 40 is
where they basically started to rot away a day before they died.
I have items that were sitting in there that I want to place in
my main tank. <I would hold off a week or so in placing
these> Regards, Harry <And you, BobF>
Re: help with possible bacterial infection? (Bob
Fenner) 11/19/07 Mr. Fenner, <Harry> Thank you for all
your help. it is greatly appreciated Regards, Harry <Welcome
my friend. BobF>
|Strange Growth on Dorsal Fin, Lymph likely
11/1/07 Hello Crew, <Ed> I have attached a photo of my
Bartlett with a strange growth on her fin. It has grown slightly
larger over the last couple of weeks. It doesn't look like
Lymphocystis to me, wondering if you had any clue what it could be
and what I should do about it. Thanks, Ed <It does look like
Lymphocystis to me... that or an idiopathic tumour of some sort
(not parasitic or infectious...). I might try purposeful cleaner/s,
bolstering immune systems nutritionally, or plucking the material
by hand... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaq2.htm
Fairy Basslet in hiding 7/8/07 Hello WWM!
Long time reader, First time poster <Welcome. We are strangers but
once> I have had 2 Bartlett's Anthias for 3 yrs now. The male
appears in poor health. <Mmmm... like most Anthiines, better to have
in a larger number grouping... but this/these may well be reaching
senescence... old age> I have a 120 reef system with sump, skimmer,
good flow produced by close loop with sequencing unit and chiller. I do
bi monthly 20% water changes. Tankmates include a Majestic Angel,
<Mmm, this species needs more room than this... by about a minimum
of twice> 2 Ocellaris, 3 Chromis, 2 Banggai Cardinals. I feed 2x a
day every other day a mix of Mysis, Formula 2 frozen and Cyclop-eeze.
(small amounts, slowly....a 6 yr. routine) I also add locally
cultivated reef stew to my tank once a month.... yummy treats! My
problem is this, for the past 3 days the male Anthias has been hiding
in rock crevices around the bottom of my tank. <Perhaps age... maybe
something to do with the other fish/es...> The first day, he came
out to eat. Yesterday he did not come out during feeding time; however,
he did move about, but ate nothing ( I fed out of schedule to entice
him out ). Today, he is MIA. I assume he is in the back rockwork not
visible to me. <Maybe> I did notice that his color became more
intense during this time. The pink hue almost a hot pink. I thought
that perhaps his breathing was labored as well. I did look closely at
him and noticed NO evidence of injury or outward sign of bacterial
infection. I was hoping you would be able to shed some light on my
experience. Thank you for your dedication. Kim <Mmm, if there were
room psycho- and physio-logically in this system, I'd suggest
adding three or five more females of the species... As it is... just
waiting. Bob Fenner> Re: Fairy Basslet in hiding -- 07/08/07
Thank you for your reply Bob, <Welcome Kim> The male Anthias has
indeed found hiding in the back of the tank. I shooed him to a crevice
in the front of my tank. If/when he dies, I would like to easily remove
whatever portions my Jumbo Nassarius snails do not devour. <Okay>
As he was swimming to the front, he wasn't really swimming, he was
more like shimmying with his tail down and snout up. He is still fat as
ever and his color is extremely intense, I would say at least 2x or
even more....it's almost as if he's running a high fever 0_o
<Good desc.> Regarding possible harassment between tank mates. I
have a peaceful community for the time being. <Ah, good> I have
often thought about trading to my LFS the well mannered (reef tank)
Majestic that I have had for 5 yrs. (small for his maturity... maybe
6" in length), <This is likely "it" size-wise here...
Has been "bonsaied" by the size et al. restraints of this
system> I just don't know if he'll be placed in a better
environment and this bothers me. I have arranged my tank in such a way
as to provide the most possible lateral swimming area. I have taken
much grief on forums for my approach as I use less LR than is popular
today. I have 110lbs in my 120 AGA and 20 gal sump. <I see> Using
island and arches to provide the hiding spaces needed; I like to keep
my rock completely surrounded with brisk current keeping pores from
clogging quickly, not to mention more surface area for the biological
filtration process to take place. <Well stated; and done>
Apologies for my long windedness.( I could have gone on and on :) )
Thank you for your time. Kim <And you for sharing. Bob
Fenner> Anthias problems, incidental mortality 4/10/07
I have searched a great deal of information from your website with a
lot of success. I am starting to run out of ideas for my current
situation. Two months ago, I placed 19 disbar Anthias in my 265g reef
tank. I have two males and seventeen females. <A good number,
ratio...> I placed seven Anthias in the tank for one week, then
added 12 more one week later. Two weeks ago, I found two dead Anthias.
The following week I noticed that one Anthias started to die after
another. I now only have 10 left. I been feeding them Cyclop-Eeze,
mysis shrimp, and flake food at least twice a day. <Mmm, yes... best
to have a thriving refugium, other means for providing food organisms
almost constantly> They all appear to be eating quite fine when I
feed them. The other inhabitants in the tank are 6 blue/green Chromis,
green mandarin, and a purple fridmani. The other fish don't seem to
bother the Anthias at all. I have a 50g refugium and pumps that
circulate 1200 gallons of water an hour. I have approximately 400lbs of
live rock in the tank and three 175 watt metal halides for my various
corals. The current temperature in the tank is 74.6, the alkalinity is
90, and the calcium level is 420. I really don't know what else to
do. I would greatly appreciate any help that you can provide. Thank
You. <This reads like a/the not uncommon situation with this
subfamily... "Something"... perhaps an internal parasite,
starvation (previous to your acquisition), other challenge resulting in
the inevitable loss of a number/all members of a group... Does happen,
as stated, quite often... How to avoid? If there's facilities for
holding a population before your transfer... to assure their health...
At this point, bolstering food value by soaking in a vitamin/HUFA prep.
(e.g. Zoe, MicroVit...) is a good idea... Bob Fenner>
Bicolor Anthias in a 19 gallon QT 10/27/06 Hi Everyone! First I
just want to say how great your site is, I've been lurking for 4
months now and have learned a great deal from all of you! My problem is
I have a really big (5") Bicolor Anthias and 1 2" Flame Angel
in a 10 gallon QT and the tank gets cloudy after just one day! I read
that they need to be fed 2-3 times a day because of their metabolism
and he is eating everything I give him and whatever he doesn't like
the Angel is taking. How can I keep the tank clean? <Mmm... I see
your statement below re water changes... pretty much this/these and
perhaps more bio. and mechanical filtration... Adding a hang-on open
power filter> Besides doing 30% water changes daily of course.
Second problem is that he is a very picky eater, so far he'll only
eat brine or Mysis shrimp. I did all the testing this morning in tiny
quantities to see what he likes. Flakes and pellets, he picks up but
spits out right away. I tried 2 small chunks of frozen plankton (Hikari
brand) spit that out too. I know brine and Mysis shrimp are not good
staples but I don't know what else to try. Luckily the angel loves
it all! How long should I keep him in quarantine if he looks good?
Louise <At least two weeks... unless circumstances, appearances
indicate that otherwise the fishs health will be impugned. Bob
Disease Anthony, <Steven Pro in this morning before
running off to MACNA.> I purchased some Bicolor Anthias from Marine
Center, unfortunately since they claim to QT their livestock I added
them directly to my main tank. <They should have still been QT by
you again. There is always the additional shipping trauma to get them
through.> The 3 that I purchased from them died within less then a
week. Now the 2 that I have had for more the 8 months are looking bad.
<The first three that died could have had some initial conditions,
but living eight months points to something going on in your tank.>
1 is in my QT tank, he has medium to large white spots where the color
has faded, and is not moving much. The other went in the rocks and
stills looks ok but isn't as active as it has been for the last few
months. System water test ok: Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10 pH 8.2 Cal
425 KH 11 System temperature 79 degrees <All seems well> Any
suggestion, yes I know that I should have QT the incoming fish but I
always heard good thing about MC from your web site <As have I, but
like I mentioned above, being put in a little plastic bag and shipped
across the country is stressful. QT gives then time to settle down, put
on some weight, and show any signs of disease, before going into the
display where they have to compete. Now to your problem, nothing jumps
out at me. You have witnessed these guys eat, no one is picking on
them, you have a refugium, and plenty of room for everyone?> Thanks,
Mark Johnson <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Sudden Anthias Deaths Hello, <Good evening! Scott F. here
tonight!> I haven't written you guys for quite some time,
thought I had learned a lot and had things under control. You guys
helped me save my purple tang and maroon clown from a bad case of ich.
I just returned them a week ago to my main tank after two months of
leaving it fallow and everything is wonderful in there, so I decided to
purchase new fish. <Glad to hear that!> I bought a pair of
lyretail Anthias last night. I put them in a freshwater ph adjusted ,
methyl blue dip, temp. 78 for 10 minutes which is what I had dipped my
other fish for and I watched the Anthias the whole time for any signs
of discomfort but they seemed fine for the entire dip. <Great
procedure> Then I put them in my quarantine tank which I had tested
and all levels were great. Ammonia and Nitrite were zero, Ph 8.2, temp
78 and salinity 1.023. Soon after I put them in the male kept floating
a little to one side and then leveling himself out, then I came to look
at him again and he was upside down, I thought that was a very bad
sign, but then he righted himself again. Anyway the point of the story
is that today they are both dead and I thought I did everything right.
My question is did I leave them in the freshwater dip too long, or were
they sick from the get go? The guy at my LFS said they were doing good
at his store and were a healthy pair, they looked good to me as well,
although they kept hiding under the rocks at the LFS. What did I do to
kill these fish overnight, please if you have any idea, let me know so
I don't do it again. Thank you, Kylee Peterson < Well, Kylee-
first of all- don't be too hard on yourself. Your procedure was
excellent! Initial dips and quarantine are excellent ways to prevent a
variety of problems. Please don't let this experience change your
diligent efforts. The possibilities here are numerous. It's really
hard to say exactly what caused their sudden death. Typically, sudden
events like this are the result of some form of shock, brought on by
environmental changes, disease, or even poisoning. Perhaps they fell
victim to osmotic shock as a result of the dip...Sometimes, even the
use of prophylactic medication, such as copper, malachite green, etc.
can be toxic to these fishes. There is also the possibility that these
specimens were stressed or in the process of contracting a disease
before you even purchased them. The fact that they were hiding in the
dealer's tank was a possible tip-off to some kind of condition. It
was certainly not your fault that the fishes died. It was probably a
combination of several factors, which combined to create this
unfortunate result. Don't be afraid to try again with these fishes,
but do select some individuals that are actively swimming about the
tank. Perhaps that might give you the "edge" that you need to
be successful with this fish. Good luck!>
Anthias In Trouble... I recently purchased a pair of square
Anthias from a trusted LFS (I say trusted because it is the only LFS
that I have never had fish problems with). Anyway, I have them both in
a quarantine tank, but the male (about 3.5-4 inches) is not faring
well. Initially, he was not moving around very much, just remaining
almost vertical near the side of the tank. Next he began to break the
surface gasping for air, and spitting water. Too, I have noticed long
strings of feces (sometimes brown, sometimes white) trailing off behind
him. These problems have since subsided. <Possibly sign of an
internal parasitic infection of some sort> Now it appears as if he
cannot right himself, sometimes sitting on the bottom, sometimes
sideways, sometimes upside down. Occasionally when upside down, he will
catch himself as if surprised, and will swim normally back down to the
bottom. <Hmm.. that sounds like an equilibrium problem of some sort,
possibly caused by improper decompression/collection procedures...>
I just noticed yesterday, that his right eye is swollen, and appears as
if the bubble on the eye is full of water (as it glistens as if
filled). <Well, that could have been some sort of trauma to the eye
caused by hitting his eyes on the tank walls or some other object.>
I have not seen the male eat, even when tempted (as suggested in one of
your threads) with live brine shrimp. He is not at the top anymore, but
just lying on the bottom, directly under the filter or next to an air
stone, almost motionless, usually not upright. His breathing appears a
little shallow. I do see him occasionally wave his fins about. The
little female appears perfectly healthy. <Sounds like he really
suffered during collection, and has had some possible medical
challenges as a result> In the quarantine tank are 1 sponge filter,
and three airstones (pumps). All parameters are perfect. I have been
keeping the lights in the tank off. <All sounds great> Any
suggestions? I hate to see this fish suffer. His mate tries to comfort
him, but she gets no reaction from him. Thank you. <Well, as far as
the swollen eye is concerned, you certainly can try Epsom salts in the
tank to help draw down the swelling. On the other hand, it seems like
the other possible problems that he is having are related to capture
and collection. You will just have to keep up the TLC. Provide him with
some more nutritious food options, such as Sweetwater plankton (a
"fresh" product that comes packed in water in a jar. Good
stuff!!! You can get it from Drs. Foster & Smith on line..). Keep
your water conditions optimum, and the tank well-aerated...Don't
quite on this guy...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Cloudy Eyes? Hi Guys <Scott F. your guy tonight> Done a
search but after spending an hour looking couldn't find the right
question/answer Had a Kashiwa Anthias with cloudy eye - Popeye - no
eye. Water conditions as good as they are gonna be.......no other fish
with problems. <okay...> Now another of the same batch of Anthias
has developed a similar problem. Is this parasitic ?? I was of the
understanding that this wasn't a contagious problem..........or am
I mistaken. <Well, sometimes these types of problems are a result of
water conditions. I know that you indicated that they were good, but
perhaps this was a result of poor environmental conditions somewhere
along the chain of custody from reef to store.> Is this likely to
have come in on the fish (if parasitic) and what can be done to
treat.........tank is around 1000G full of corals/inverts/fish so no
chemical treatment and no way can the fish come out. <Well, this
doesn't sound like a parasitic malady to me. Possibly you're
seeing a bacterial infection of some sort. It may be possible to treat
the affected fishes with antibiotic foods. Of course, I'd continue
to maintain excellent water conditions, and quarantine all new arrivals
for a minimum of 3 weeks.> Would love to hear your thoughts. Any
sites or links to research on this problem would be appreciated if you
guys know any. Regards, Steve. <Well Steve, I'm not aware of any
specific sites that specialize in disease, but you can peruse the WWM
site, or do a key word search on one of the larger search engines under
"fish diseases", and see what you can come up with. Good
luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Lyretail Anthias Bob, I spoke too soon! Approaching the 3
week mark in the quarantine process. The male Lyretail Anthias has
shown a 1/8" black spot on its right of the gill cover close to
the mouth. It almost looks like an ingrown hair. The spot protrudes
approximately 1/16". The Lyretail looks great and acts in a normal
mode. Went to the LFS and was told to treat with Formalin for a day or
so. Came home and then went to your Wet Web Media. Now I'm
confused. Should I try to treat the quarantine tank with Formalin? The
two females look fine. Or should I do a quick freshwater dip with
Formalin for approximately 10 minutes? I am always open to
recommendations. I was really hoping to place them in my mini-reef, but
now I am reluctant. Thanks again for your help <IMO, emphatically
just the dip and formalin... the Anthiines don't do well, neither
do quarantine systems treated with formalin/formaldehyde... likely to
do more harm than good as anything other than a dip/bath... and very
likely the "black hair thing" is no problem... Do get these
fish into a larger system, feeding ASAP... two weeks should be long
enough for this protocol/quarantine. Bob Fenner>
Sick fish Bob My male Lyretail Anthias just showed up with a
dark lump the size of a BB under his skin at the base of one of his
fins. It is making the fin stick straight out affecting his swimming a
little. He has seemed to have lost his appetite also. <Not good>
This is so strange he was doing great yesterday. He is in a reef tank
so there is no way I can catch him. Any idea what this could be and any
suggestions for treatment that will not hurt my corals? Can this spread
to my other fish? <Not likely catching... maybe an ulceration from a
parasite (internal)...> Thank you for you help Jason P.S. How do you
get compensated for all this work. Is there some place I can send you
some money for all your help? <No my friend. Your participation,
involvement, sharing here is more than enough. Bob Fenner>
Touchy fish acclimation and feeding Howdy Bob! <Howdy,
Chief! Anthony Calfo in your service while Bob sits in a corner trying
to crack brazil nuts open with his forehead> Because of all your
good counsel and website information, my personal contacts are at least
dwindling in their frequency. Thanks again, and I hope you will help me
with a two-part question. < I shall do my best> Because my local
LFS is dealing with some water-quality issues, and I still have a
backlog of pre-paid fish coming in, I have taken to having them notify
me ahead of their arrival (via air freight), and I go right down when
they get them in, and bring them home. Naturally, this isn't as
nice as if they had been living and eating there at the LFS for a
period of time, but it is my present reality. <we do the best we can
with what we can> Anyway, I carefully follow your guerilla guide to
acclimation of my new arrivals, but it is my impression that by the
time I remove them from their
mix, they appear more sluggish and 'wiped-out' than the ones
from the same batch who go through an 'LFS standard'
acclimation (of gradually adding tank water into their bags and then
releasing). Watching my fish in their cat-litter-box they just seem to
sit and sometimes their back end curls around a bit towards the front.
I don't want to stress them further, so I don't poke &
prod, and usually, after about 5 to 7 minutes, I gently transfer them
to my lights-out acclimation tank. Sometimes they speed away when I put
them in, sometimes they just seem to barely sink to the bottom, and
hang out. <quite natural> So, part 1 of my question is this: Is
this normal for a fish going through this kind of dip / acclimation
treatment, and (just for reassurance) is it still better because of the
reduced risk of disease than just mixing waters and releasing?
<indeed...cannot mix waters> Part 2. In last night's
delivery, I received a male/female pair of purple queen Anthias (they
didn't have lyretail). I know they are much more touchy fish, but
they were beautiful looking <Arrgghhh... not the best reason when
unprepared> and I had spoken to someone who had had three in a very
small and simple reef for a long while <more than a year and still
fat at that time?> , so I decided to give it a shot. They are still
sitting on the bottom of the acclimation tank, breathing OK, and
watching with their eyes, but not real motivated to eat. I am going to
try "first flake", <I'll eat your hat if they eat
flake for you.. hehe. Need meaty food...may even have to resort to
live> and Mysis shrimp, but wondered if you had any good ideas about
how to tempt one of these pretties into eating? <frozen mysids and
Pacifica plankton are good whole foods in the long run...a good
specialized homemade recipe like in Bob's CMA will be better. In
the meantime, try gut loaded live guppies or ghost shrimp if the fish
are large enough, or enriched live brine (Selcon) if still small>
Thank you so much for your help. Sincerely, Jim Raub <keep us posted
please. with kind regards, Anthony>
Truncate Anthias Hi, me again. <Cheers, Anthony Calfo in
your service> This time I have a question about an Anthias. His name
is Felix and he's the coolest little orange fish you have ever
seen, <I'll take your word on it although you really have no
idea just how many spoonfuls of recreational drugs I've done and
subsequently how many cool little orange fish I've seen. Of course,
I suspect yours doesn't have hands with opposable thumbs...hehe>
but he's not feeling well. <tell me about it, my friend>
About a month ago I did my water change and filter change and there
after he's been hiding. The water was a little cold as I use
purified sea water and it had been sitting by the door. I usually wait
about a day after getting the water but I had accidentally drained the
tank too much and had gone to get more water letting it sit for only
about an hour. Anyway he's hiding, and this fish was king of his
tank before!!! All the other fish, inverts, and coral are doing fine,
no one else was affected. One thing I should add is when the water was
tested last week (I do this on a weekly basis) the pH was low. After
adding some buffer Felix seems to be more interested in the world
outside his cave. He's even come out to perch on the rock in the
light. I can see that he has lost no weight at all so I figured he eats
off the water column behind the rock (I have a pair of threadfin gobies
that are doing the same thing). His color is still not great but at
least he's still alive!!! (I love this fish!) My question is should
I find another Anthias or should I buy a royal Gramma and try to play
on his aggression <another Anthiinae may be tolerable (females) but
never play on their aggression. Our tanks are too small. Try different
food too. With Anthiines you simply have to try Sweetwater zooplankton
(keep refrigerated). It is incredible for Anthias species> (My last
one was kicked around the tank for several months before he was
accepted!) (disappeared mysteriously after the addition of a new
powerhead?) I ask this because I cannot find another truncate Anthias,
Felix was a mix up as he came in as a purple queen. I would hate to add
another Anthias only to worry about it not having a proper buddy.
<yes. please don't mix species> I once tried to save a purple
square Anthias from a LFS, and Felix loved him, when his attacks were
ignored by the larger Anthias he decided this guy need love and
attacked everybody else who got too close. Or do you think that I
should try and see if I can't find another truncate? <try the
food first and slightly warmer water...then maybe a buddy if you feel
you must> My main concern is to keep Felix alive and happy, and
while he's alive, he's not happy. Thanks again Kim <his
behavior is not because of the single cool water event. That was
coincidental. Some aspect of water chemistry (like pH which should be
8.3 to 8.6 daily) is the real culprit most likely. Best regards,