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FAQs about Fancy Basses, Subfamily Anthiinae Selection
Related Articles: Fancy Basses, The
Sunburst or Fathead Anthias,
Related FAQs: Anthiines 1, Anthiines 2, Anthiine
Identification, Anthiine Systems,
Anthiine Compatibility,
Anthiine Behavior,
Anthiine Feeding,
Anthiine Disease,
Anthiine Reproduction,
Avoid "too skinny" specimens... Anthiines should be
fed meaty foods... several times a day.
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Fish Selection, Anthiines mostly
8/8/08
Dear WWM Crew,
<Alex>
First thanks for all of your help that you have provided me, you guys do a great
service!!!
<Welcome>
So I am starting up my 90 gallon reef tank, which will be mostly SPS along with
a few other LPS, Ricordea and Zooanthids to go along with it. I just wanted to
run my fish list by you guys to see what you think:
1) Evansi Anthias
2) Purple Queen Anthias
3) Bartlett's Anthias
4) Ventralis Anthias
<Mmm, would select amongst these, go with one, two at most species... of a small
odd number school... see WWM re Anthiines, Selection...>
5) Head Solon Fairy Wrasse
6) Green Mandarin
I have been reading a lot about the Anthias, and they all seem to get along with
their co species, but the general consensus is that they are naturally seen in
the wild in groups. So would this be an ok mix with all of these anthias, or
should I try and get a school of Bartlett's anthias, and forget the others?
<Better the one, or... as stated above>
Another question I had is if I were to go with this selection of fish, in what
order to you think I should add them, and how far apart should I let them get
used to their new environment before adding another fish?
AJ
<The Callionymid last. Bob Fenner>
Lyretail Anthias
Pair? 07/22/2008
Hi Crew,
<<Good afternoon, Andrew today>>
I recently purchased a male Lyretail Anthias for my 90 gallon. I was planning to
keep him alone but he is such a wonderful fish that I'm now considering buying a
female.
<<Hmmmm.. ok>>
I'm wondering if it would be OK to add a single female or if I would need to add
two+ females to spread the aggression? I know these fish can be aggressive
toward each other and want to make sure they can live together happily as a pair
before I add a female. I don't feel I have room for more than one female in the
tank so if a pair won't work
I'll keep the male by himself.
<<Given your tank size, and already placed male, I would give this a miss, as
adding one or two females will lead to a lot of aggression and the inevitable
mat happen, which I don't think is worth the risk>>
Thanks, Melissa
<<Thanks for the questions Melissa, I hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Anthias Selection – 05/27/08
Good Morning!
<<Hello!>>
Just a quick question for you guys.
<<Okay>>
I have a 75gal in the post, and I'm planning my stocking for it. There's gonna
be a dwarf angel, a chromis, a trio of yellow-tail blue damsels and maybe a
mandarin a year down the line.
<<Mmm, a mature in-line refugium should be on this list as well…and well ahead
of the Mandarin>>
I would also like to add a solitary Anthias (I believe my tank is too small for
a group?).
<<Considering the other occupants, yes>>
Would a single Anthias fare ok in this tank (with good water quality and
frequent feedings obviously)?
<<There are several species of Pseudanthias that can do well as “loners”>>
If so, my supplier can get: Evansi, Dispar, Lori or Fathead. Which would you
recommend, if any?
<<Of those listed the Lori is the best choice considering its tankmates, though
Pseudanthias lori will need some caves/overhangs to be able to get out of any
bright lighting. The others you have listed do not make for good selections due
being too delicate or too easily harassed by aggressive tankmates, in my
estimation>>
I prefer the Evansi or Dispar as I'm looking for something colourful to take
centre-stage in the water column along with the Chromis.
<<Better choices in my opinion; again considering the other fishes on your
proposed stocklist, would be either a single Pseudanthias huchtii or single
Pseudanthias squamipinnis (males of course)…or… if you don’t add more livestock
than what you have listed already, you could probably get away with a specimen
of Pseudanthias pleurotaenia>>
I think reading your site that the Fathead is probably the hardiest, but most
likely to hide?
<<It would probably hide no more than the Lori…but would likely be bullied by
the tankmates you plan to keep>>
Cheers,
Chris
<<Whichever Anthiine specimen you choose, I would make this the “first” piscine
addition to this tank. Regards, EricR>>
Re:
Anthias Selection – 05/28/08
Thank you so much for your
reply.
<<You are quite welcome>>
WetWeb really is the place to come for level-headed advice.
<<Ah! Thank you for the kind words>>
I've been umming and arring about the Mandarin for some time. I think that
unless I come across a healthy specimen in a shop that eats frozen/prepared food
in front of me, then I'll give it a miss.
<<Wise… And even then, it’s no guarantee it is receiving adequate nutrition for
its long-term health…they really do need a largish, mature system with plenty of
live rock for browsing…and all supported by a plankton generating refugium>>
After reading the faq's on your site I've decided to drop the idea of an anthias.
<<Honestly…considering the size of your system this too is a wise decision.
There are lots of interesting and hardy fishes that” will” do well in your
tank>>
I'll also drop one of the damsels,
<<Mmm…actually, a trio of these little bullies is likely better… to help spread
aggressions. Unless you are able to come across/obtain a “natural” pair>>
get a couple more chromis and a royal Gramma…so my new stocking plan is:
Dwarf angel
2 yellowtail blue damsels
<<I would keep this at ‘3’>>
3 chromis
Royal Gramma.
The dwarf angel I'm considering is a bicolour.
<<Can be difficult…>>
Well, my head says coral beauty would be a safer choice,
<<Yes… If a healthy/undamaged specimen is obtained. The Coral Beauty is
susceptible to damage from handling/transport…but can otherwise prove to be a
hardy aquarium specimen. I kept one of these in my reef system when I lived in
Ipswich, a number of years back>>
but my heart says bicolour!
<<My vote goes to my personal favorite the Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula).
These are little fish that are hardier than both of the previous species
mentioned and that adapt readily to aquarium life>>
What stocking order would you suggest?
<Hmm…Royal Gramma first…then the Dwarf Angel…followed by the Damsels (Chromis or
Yellowtail) in no particular order>>
Cheers again.
Chris
<<Be chatting, Eric Russell>>
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Anthias Stocking 04/11/2008
Greetings WWM Crew!
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
Great site. Indispensible. Kudos all around.
<<Many thanks>>
Some background info then my very first question to the WWM crew... 150g reef,
180lbs live rock, DSB, 8 Aquarium Systems model 1200 power heads w/ 6 of them on
2 Natural Wave timers, lighting is PC's & VHO, 632 watts total, sump, in-sump
skimmer, 16g refugium with 8 peppermint shrimp, Astrea snails and alternating
lighting. My interest lies mostly with as many varieties of compatible fish I
can house without overtaxing the system.
<<Sounds good>>
I also have soft corals such as star polyps, mushrooms and various leathers
along with a clean up crew of Blueleg hermits and Astrea snails. The system was
set up in 2001. At it's peak I had 5 Bartlett's Anthias (Pseudanthias
bartlettorum), 3 large Green Chromis (Chromis viridis), a pair of Maroon Clowns
(Premnas biaculatus), one Powder Brown Tang (Acanthurus japonicus), Hippo tang
(Paracanthurus hepatus), Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula), Emperor Angel
(Pomacanthus imperator) (no problems between them either since the P. imperator
was introduced as a juvenile after the Flame. He is now a sub-adult and
awesome!).
<<Good>>
Things were going along very well until I changed jobs that required a lot of
travel and then a very serious illness. Needless to say maintenance suffered and
casualties mounted. Surviving are star polyps, mushrooms, cabbage leather, the
Emperor Angel, Hippo Tang and the Maroon clownfish.
<<A shame to hear about the illness etc>>
About a year ago I became well enough and started to get the system going again
with a massive maintenance, water changes, lowered lighting wattage and photo
period to reduce algae problems, rotated LR to a quarantine system, cleaned it
of detritus and algae then returning to the display tank, cleaned, vacuumed,
scrubbed and re-arranged. I've done this relatively slowly so as to not shock
the survivors. I love them all. I did remove the Maroon clowns as the female
became increasing belligerent towards her tankmates as per their normal
behavior. However, this included the Emperor although, thankfully, no serious
fisticuffs. My issue with her also had to do with constantly digging up the DSB.
Current status:
Looking good again but still have not yet added back the VHO lighting nor added
any new corals. I'm running 384 watts of PC's right now. Fish are alert, active,
eating well and coral polyps fully extended. Since we're back on track I thought
it time to add a few new fish.
<<Really good to hear its all getting the glory back>>
I went to my LFS to browse but with the idea to get a few Green Chromis. Alas,
none
available. Ah, but he did have an immature pair of Tonozuka's Fairy Wrasse
(Cirrhilabrus tonozukai) at such a reasonable cost I couldn't resist.
<<beautiful fish>>
They adapted quickly, swimming all over the tank, alert and eating well. I can't
wait to see them mature! At the time of my visit he also had a very good looking
pair of Square-Spot Anthias (Pseudanthias pleurotaenia). I was tempted but
resisted the impulse since I know to go slowly. Plus, it was just a pair. I
would have preferred to add 3-5 at one time. The next week I visited the LFS
again and the pair of Square-Spot Anthias were still there. Still looking good
and on sale at a price even better than some online outlets! You know what
happened next, right?
They too, have adapted quickly, swimming out in the open, alert and eating very
well. Both male and female appear to "get along" or, behave normally as you
would expect from this species. The male will occasionally chase the female into
a cave or overhang if she lingers near him in the open too long. She looks none
the worse for wear and immediately peeks out from another crevice.
<<Do be aware that these are more a fragile fish of this family, seem to suffer
from "mysterious deaths" all too often>>
She appears cautious and alert for the male but no fear. Both will feed together
along with the rest of the population. Both cruise the entire tank and both may
be at either end or at the same end with the male above and the female nearer
the bottom. They have been in my system for 3 weeks at this point. So far, going
very well... Now we're getting to my question...
Whew! Ideally, I would like to house a small harem of P. pleurotaenia. I do
understand "ideally" and a captive system may not be compatible.
Would you say it safe to add 2-3 female Square-Spot Anthias with the current
pair? I have seen on the WWM site a recommendation to leave it at a pair in a
smaller system. Other sites simply say to house one male and X number of females
depending on system size. My concern is the addition of females after the first
pair. Even in my larger system.
<<I would just keep it as you are with the pair, i feel that adding anymore of
this SP. of fish, in your tank size is going to asking for issues. They are not
the easiest fish to keep as it is>>
Anyways, thanks for reading my story and I appreciate very much all your work on
this site. Regards, John
<<Thanks for all the questions, and nice story. Hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Anthiinae
Placement/Chaetomorpha Growth – 02/08/08
Hey crew,
<<Hello>>
This is my first time writing, though I've been visiting your web site for
almost a year now.
<<Welcome then… How may I assist?>>
Because of WWM and very a helpful LFS (ALL ABOUT FISH in Concord, CA) my 125g
long is a thriving soft/LPSs reef.
<<Ah, very nice to know>>
My current stock:
1- 6" Blonde Naso
1- 5" Emperor Angel
<<Do be aware, this tank is not large enough for the above mentioned fishes for
the long-term. As these grow they will need twice this volume to preclude
developmental/behavioral/health issues>>
1-2.5" Purple Firefish
1 large Colt Coral
1 med Frogspawn
Misc. mushrooms, hermit crabs, snails, etc...
I have a 40g ‘fuge (Chaetomorpha)
<<Excellent>>
Euro-reef RS100 skimmer
<<I do like this brand of skimmer… I have an (old?) CS12-3 that a couple of the
Sedra pumps just died on. I replaced all with a trio of the ER-modded Eheim 1262
pumps and WOW…falling in love with this skimmer all over again! …but enough
about me [sheepish-grin]>>
There are no water quality issues; I do 20g weekly water changes, sometimes
more.
<<This “is” about the single-best thing hobbyists can do for their systems>>
My Emperor and Naso are my "Pets" and will readily eat out of my hand.
<<Yes, can become quite “personable”>>
After several months of waiting, my LFS received 9 Bartlett’s Anthias (1 male, 8
female).
<<A very aquarium hardy species>>
Would this be too many?
<<Right now, no…but do keep in mind the future requirements of the tang and
angel>>
How long to qt?
<<I don’t recommend quarantine for Anthiines…best to place directly in the
display>>
I have a 29g FOWLR (6 months old or set up my 55g (would be bare) what would be
the best protocol?
<<As stated>>
Also I have read/heard conflicting facts on the growth of Chaetomorpha algae. I
have a very slow growth rate. I have 40 watts of PC lighting on a reverse cycle.
PO4 is undetectable, NO3 10-15 (API and Red Sea test kits) any thoughts or
suggestions?
<<A couple… Try boosting both light intensity (65w+) and spectral quality
(5000K-6500K), and flow (add a small powerhead for circulation) to the refugium.
Regards, EricR>>
Re: Anthiinae
Placement/Chaetomorpha Growth - 02/08/08
Thank you for your speedy response!
<<You are quite welcome!>>
I've been driving myself crazy over all of this.
<<Oh?>>
I have been putting together plans for a 240g long.
<<Ahh! And a much better home for the Naso Tang and Emperor Angel than the
125g>>
I have a Contractor building a stand/canopy for this tank size with matching
sides (to keep the wife happy about the whole thing, she chose color,
style.....).
<<Wise fella…>>
Constantly thumbing through your "Facts" for advise/set-up info before
transferring all livestock from the 125.
<<Do let me know if I can be of assistance re… I have a self-installed in-wall
375g reef biotope display with 75g sump and 55g inline refugium…auto top-up,
semi-auto water change, etc…and lots of opinions [big-grin]>>
No other livestock will be added; I know the Angel and Naso need their space.
<<Very good to know, mate. And that shoal of ten small Anthiines will be a sweet
little accent to these two very showy fishes>>
Hopefully much happier in a 8ft then in a tall 6ft.
<<Yes>>
When done would love to send you photo's.
<<Please do!>>
Once again, thank you very much.
<<Very happy to help my friend. Eric Russell>>
Anthias with black tips on
fins, beh. 12/16/07
Hello, I noticed within the past few days that one of my Lyretail Anthias'
bottom fins have a blackness on the very tips. I thought it may be the beginning
of fin & tail rot, but the fins are not tattered at all; Also he is behaving
quite normally, being very active as usual. Any ideas of what it is and what I
should do?
<Highly likely nothing... What species is this? Can you send along an image,
pic?>
Tank is 90 gallons, 75lbs of live rock, live sand, hermit crabs & various
snails. Two Lyretail Anthias. (No other fish. The tank is only 3 months old).
Skimmer.
I feed the Anthias Mysis shrimp (frozen), Sweetwater zooplankton, Cyclopeeze,
and sometimes they actually eat omega flakes with garlic.
<Is this Pseudanthias squamipinnis? Might be that one is "turning" into a
male... or more male... BTW, this and most other species of the subfamily
(Anthiinae) are better kept in small odd numbered shoals in such small volumes
as yours. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias with black tips on fins
Thanks for the quick reply, Bob.
Yes, the fish is a Squamipinnis and I am fairly certain that the other
one, which is orange, is the same species but female. The orange Anthias
was labeled as a Dispar at the LFS. Maybe you can confirm it for me from
the pics.
<Mmm, definitely not a Dispar... looks to me to be a sub-adult male of
the same species... Squamipinnis... note the colored dot on the
pectorals, the overall salmon coloring... Has progressed beyond being a
female... Likely a factor here in the more darkened fin margins of its
conspecific here>
I do realize after much reading on this site that a pair of Anthias may
not have been ideal, but these two seem to get along quite well,
swimming together and such. Every so often the male will chase and try
to nip at the female,
<Actually... the more male and less male...>
but the female just jets out of the way unbothered and sometimes even
nips back.
I also forgot to mention that there was a bruise on the male (same one
with the black tips) and thought maybe it could be related. The bruise
seems to be healing though; As of today it is almost gone.
<Enjoy them! If introducing other individuals... get smaller, definitely
unsexually differentiated or female individuals. See Fishbase.org,
WWM... for pix. Bob Fenner> |
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Help with possible bacterial
infection? Anthias hlth., sel. -11/18/07
Hello crew,
<Harry>
I had purchased 3 Bartlett's Anthias from a LFS. They were eating fine at the
store and looked healthy. I brought them home and put them in my 10G QT (small I
know) but I didn't know that Anthias need a bigger QT, I do now.
All was well for 5 days, then they stopped eating and were staying down at the
bottom and they were rapidly breathing and 1 was flashing on the bottom of the
tank I think. they showed no interest in food at all.
<I hope you moved them post haste>
Someone suggested maybe it was stress related due to the small space, so I moved
them to a spare 40g holding tank that has live rock, mushrooms and various other
coral that I don't know what to do with yet. The morning after I woke up to find
that 2 of the Anthias had no tails at all. It was like they rotted off or
something ate them off. Someone suggested maybe it was Marine velvet.
<Mmm, no. IF Amyloodinium they'd be dead>
I looked up the symptoms but I'm not sure. Could it have been aggression
related.
<Only barely>
The first Anthias to die out of the 3 looked normal its tail was intact, no
visible injuries. the other 2 who's bodies looked like they were rotting away
died the day after. Could it be bacterial in nature?
<After effect, yes... as in decomposition. Root causal, no>
I'm hoping that it is Marine velvet because a fallow period in the 40 will
eradicate it. Now what if it is bacterial or viral what do I do with all the
live rock and coral that is in the 40 that I infected. How do I treat the rock
and coral with out killing it. Will a fallow period work with bacterial
infections.
Any information on what it could have been would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Harry
<I have high confidence that the "cause" here is/was simply stress... Anthiines
almost always need larger quarters to feel safe... and Bartlett's are a highly
anxious species... By and large I advise simply placing them sans other
protocols, including quarantine, dipping... Bob Fenner>
Re: Life after ich, dither
fish – 10/18/07
Hi Bob,
<Stan>
I do have room (360 gallon tank). I have several Bartlett anthias on order.
<Ah, a good species selection here>
I also have a gold band maroon clown and a mystery wrasse in the quarantine
tank. I also have a firefish and a zebra goby the main tank as well. I will add
more smaller fish in the future. Thank you for all your help. My tank is looking
very healthy but keeping my fingers cross.
Stan
<Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>
Lyretail Anthias... comp., sel., sys.
9/27/07
I was thinking off purchasing some lyretail anthias
<Likely Pseudanthias squamipinnis>
for my 72 gallon tank.
Upon doing my homework all seemed to be well as this is the hardiest of the
anthias but then I read some questions I found disconcerting about the
fishes attacking each other.
<Mmm, yes... they live in large to very large shoals in their wide geographic
range... establish and challenge "pecking orders" and ranging males
continuously>
Should I purchase 4 female Anthias for my tank with the assumption one would
turn male or is it better to buy 3 females and one male?
<Either way... but definitely only one certain male in a volume of this (small)
size>
I plan to QT them for a month
<Mmm, for fishes as these... small, continuous zooplanktivores... a shorter
duration, even just a dip/bath and a prayer, may prove more prudent... to forego
starvation and its ill-effects>
but will them being in the confined space of a 10 gallon QT tank lead them to
aggression?
<Oh yes... and over-stress in general>
And lastly along with the 4 Anthias I have 2 ocellaris clowns, neon goby,
blue-green Chromis and plan on getting a flame angel and royal Gramma. Is
this to much for my tank?
<Mmm, is right about some sort of maximum>
I have 100 lbs of live rock and a good skimmer.
Thanks for the help.
Adam
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>
Adding Anthiines/Compatibility Issues –
09/06/07
Hello Crew,
<<Howdy>>
I would like to start keeping Anthias (probably Bartlett's), but I am unsure if
there will be compatibility issues with my current livestock. I would appreciate
any opinions/advice you have.
<<I’m happy to share>>
Current setup: 150 gallon 3 year old lightly stocked reef, 160 lbs live rock,
2x250watt MH, Euro-Reef RS180, 50 gallon sump w/refugium.
Livestock :
1 Black Cap Basslet
3 Pajama Cardinals
3 Clown Gobies
2 Neon Gobies
1 Pearly Jawfish
1 Ocellaris Clownfish
1 Crocea clam
1 Derasa clam
Various Coral
Thanks for your help.
<<Adding some Anthias shouldn’t be a problem...and Bartlett’s are an excellent
choice here. Do be aware they can be quite skittish when first introduced and
might jump if startled/chased by other fishes (though I think this is a small
concern re your stock list). This usually is not an issue once the Anthiines
become established...and placing some plastic eggcrate material over the tank
opening(s) for a week or two initially may help to keep them in the water where
they belong. Regards, EricR>>
Anthias/bioload and urchins - 7/20/07
I am currently stocking my 72 gallon FOWLR tank my current tankmates are 2
ocellaris clowns, 1 neon goby, 1 blue/green chromis, 1 flame angel (still in QT)
2 cleaner shrimp and various snails and emerald crabs. I will also be buying a 6
line wrasse and royal Gramma. I had intend on getting a school of chromis for my
tank but after purchasing 5 they started knocking each other off until only 1
was left. I was thinking about purchasing some anthias but because of the cost
and how sensitive they are to water conditions ( I am a newbie to saltwater-
tank has been running for 5 months) I was a little leery about purchasing them.
I think that I will though as with all the incredible help I receive from the
internet has turned a relative newbie into someone secure in running their tank.
Anyway I was wondering how many anthias I can purchase without overloading my
tank. I know I have to buy 1 male and the rest females. What do you suggest?
I was also interested in purchasing an urchin. I have done some homework on them
and I think they should be OK in my tank but what type of urchin would you
recommend for my tank. Thanks for the help.
Adam
>>>Hello Adam, Jim here.
Given all the fish you have, and the fact that you will be adding a Royal Gramma
and a Sixline wrasse (add the Sixline last) I think you're fully stocked.
My advice, for several reasons, (even though you haven't told me what species of
anthias you're looking at) let go of the anthias idea.
Cheers
Jim<<<>And the urchin? RMF<
Room for Anthias? 7/5/07
Bob,
Tank is 90 Gallon with a 25 gallon Sump. Currently Occupants are Foxface and Dog
Face Puffer (once he emerges from quarantine). Do you think I have room for a
trio of Anthias?
Thanks
Roy
<Might be bothered to munched by the true puffer... Do pick out a "good" species
if you go this route... See WWM re Anthiine Selection. Bob Fenner>
Re: Room for Anthias? 7/9/07
Bob,
Would I be better off then with a few Damsel instead of the Anthias or would
they just spook the Foxface?
Roy
<Either should work out... B>
Tangs and Anthias in a display at my fish
store 6/13/07
Hello!
I have been reading your FAQS/articles for a number of years now and have
finally encountered a question that I could not find an answer for on the site.
<There are, assuredly... lifetimes of these!>
I am in the final stages of opening a fish store and I have 3 large acrylic
tanks (they are 8 ft. x 4 ft. x 18 in., holding roughly 300-350 gallons of water
apiece, not including the sumps). These tanks will be for selling corals out of
<Mmm, please pardon (my usual) kibitzing... but why so deep? Cheaper, easier to
work in, illuminate specimens in shallower water...>
and I would like to keep in each of these tanks, a handful of 'show' fish which
won't be for sale.
<A good idea... to add interest, keep some pests (algae, snails, worms...)
reduced... Nice place for store "mascots">
In one of these I would like to keep Surgeons. My question is: what would be
your suggestions as to how many would be a good number and what specific types
of tangs do you think will do well together?
<Mmm, better for each tank/system to have just one species/genus really...
Likely a Zebrasoma, Ctenochaetus... perhaps a smaller Acanthurus...>
I have successfully kept (and still keep in my tanks at home) a yellow and
hippo/regal tang in a 125g for close to 5 years now, but I would like to have
something different and maybe not quite so 'common' for display at the store.
<I understand... there are several choices...>
I hope this is not getting to be too much but I would also like to keep a school
of Squarespot Anthias in the second of these three tanks, and was wondering what
your suggestions would be as to how big of a school I should have; and what
male:female ratio you would suggest. (The anthias would be the only fish in this
tank)
<Mmm, one alpha male... perhaps a couple of already not-quite so alpha males
along with... and an odd number of sexually indeterminate juveniles/females... a
total of under twenty>
(I know you're probably waiting for my questions about the third tank now, but I
really don't have a clue as to what I want to keep in that one yet....so if you
have any suggestions....) ;)
<Oh... this will come to you in time...>
Please feel free to edit my letter in any way you see fit, especially my
'subject' line as I couldn't really think of a completely appropriate way to
word it.
Thank you in advance for your time and your advice, it is very much appreciated.
Nicole
P.S. I would like to thank you all for your FAQS/articles on the aquatics
business as they have helped us tremendously in getting our business set up.
<Congratulations on your new enterprise! Please do send along your URL for our
posting, promotion when you have this up and going. Bob Fenner>
Anthias pairing 5/17/07
Hello WWM crew,
<Hi Allegra (the person, not Fexofenadine HCL I presume) Mich here.>
My question is about the idea of finding a mate for my Hawaiian Bicolor
Anthias. Bob F. had mentioned that this type of anthias is more likely to get
lonely and it would be better for him to have a female around (the fish, not
Bob).
<Heeeee! Perhaps Bob could give your anthias some lessons on charming the
ladies.>
Here's the rub...there isn't much coming out of Hawaii currently, so the search
is getting hard. What are the chances of a similar looking female, such as a
Bartlett, filling the bill?
<Not likely. A different species. Would you be happy with a monkey as a life
partner?>
I hope it doesn't take a couple of females or more to make this guy happy (again
the fish, not Bob).
<Heeheeeee! The fish may be happy with one, Bob on the other hand... >
Thanks,
Allegra
<Welcome! Mich>
Re: Anthias pairing 5/18/07
Hi Mitch,
<Hello again Allegra!>
I'm glad I brought some humor to your day!
<Me too! Thank you!>
You're right, my husband might act like a monkey, but I don't need to put a
diaper on him. ;-)
<Hee! Yet...>
I'll keep looking for Ms. bicolor anthias somewhere out there...(sounds
like a corny song).
<I hope you find her! Perhaps beneath the pale moonlight...>
Allegra
<Cheers! Mich>
Pairing Different Anthiine Species? –
06/04/07
Hi WWM crew,
<<Greetings Allegra>>
This question is about a Hawaiian Bicolor male Anthias I acquired a month
ago.
<<Okay>>
Bob F. had made a comment about finding him a girl given that this
particular type of anthias is more prone to loneliness when kept singly.
<<Indeed>>
Whether Bob is being sentimental or not,
<<Just a big softie...>><Am>
I would like to entertain the idea of a female joining him (the fish, not
Bob).
<<Ha!!! Bob will be soooo disappointed!>><Ditto>
Here's the rub...there is little being exported out of Hawaii currently,
<<Mmm, not the first time I’ve heard this...even my friend here in “the biz”
has stated same>>
so what is the chance a similar; say Bartlett, female could be introduced
instead?
<<These Anthiines will coexist in an aquarium, but they never truly
“mix”...at least not in my experience. I’ve observed these two particular
species together; as well as other mixes, and though the two may “hang
about” with each other, there likely won’t be any true “pairing,” and thus a
lack of the “stimuli” afforded a true species bond. Very much unlike Bob,
who is quite happy when ANY female shows him a bit of attention...>><Heeee!
Tis so. RMF>
I hope it won't take more than one female to keep the boy happy (don't say
it!).
<<Er, but, um, okay...dang it!>>
Thanks for the help,
Allegra
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Lyretail Anthias For An Eight-Foot Display? 5/15/07
Hi crew,
<<Hello Matt>>
I would like to get a group of Lyretail Anthias for my 8x2x2 SPS reef.
<<A fine choice! One of the larger and hardier species commonly available and
are great for larger systems ... and is what I have in my own 8x2.5x2.5 SPS
reef>>
I have read/been advised to purchase anywhere between 6 and 12 fish.
<<Ok>>
What would your recommendation be?
<<I have 5 (1-male, 4-female) at the moment, and this is about as “few” as you
want for reasons of spreading aggression. I think a group of twelve (with only
one male) would be fine for your tank>>
I was thinking of 12, however I have read that if you do not get the ratio right
for a given tank size that you could end up with two females developing into
males and trying to split the harem.......
<<Not really... Even in an eight-foot tank, with these large Anthiines a single
male will control the entire tank. Inadvertently introducing two males would
result in the less dominate male being harassed to the point of starvation/death
from the continued stress, and is why I emphasize a “single male” for your
group>>
Whatever the number, my plan would be to special-order a group of females and
introduce them all at the same time.
<<This is quite acceptable...but let me suggest you acquire a “wild caught” male
instead. I have observed “tank converted” Lyretail males on several occasions
and their color/color patterns are noticeably different in my experience...and
while they are still beautiful fishes, they are never quite as
spectacular/intense as the wild caught males in my opinion. Most apparent on
the “captive made” males is the lack/lessening of color to the finnage as
compared to the wild caught males, most notably the missing “blotches” of red on
the pectoral fins...>>
Thanks,
Regards,
Matt
<<A pleasure to share. Eric Russell>>
Pseudanthias bicolor sel. - 04/20/07
Thanks Bob for the thumbs up. My only confusion is the repeated advise to
only keep 1 anthias per tank unless there is room for a "harem".
<Mmm, this species is a bit different from a/the "mainstream" anthiines... lives
amongst a rock patch... less inclined to one-alpha male assemblages...>
Are the bi-color's less aggressive towards each other, whether male or female?
<Yes>
Would another one fit into the stocking list of a 100gl tank?
<I do think so... and would make for a more interesting display... perhaps a
male and a smaller female. Do please see here re sexing:
http://fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=7874
BobF>
Appreciate the impute,
Allegra
Tang compatibility and introduction order 3/28/07
Hello WWM crew!
<Marc>
First off, let me congratulate you on your web site, there so much info found on
it (though it sometimes takes a long time finding it, since it is so huge, but,
hey, no big deal).
I currently have a 125 gallons reef tank (Perfecto, 72x18x22) with a 60 gallons
sump (with something like 50 gallons of water in it). My return pump is a
Velocity T4 (1500 GPH) which also feeds the refugium section of my sump (in
which I just added light with a small ball of Chaetomorpha). I have 2 Seio 1500
et 1 820 (for approximately 30X) for water motion. The filtration of this tank
is accomplished by approximately 140 pounds of LR (mix of Fiji, Sulawesi and
Brazilian) and a Beckett Protein skimmer (46" tall, diameter of 8") with an
Iwaki MD100RLT pump in recirculation and fed by a Mag7. It is lit by 2 250W MH
bulbs and 2 6' VHO (165W each).
Now for the livestock. I only have a couple of corals for now (the tank has only
been up and running since November 2006), but I plan to add more as it matures.
I have :
- Iridis wrasse (Halichoeres iridis)
- Yellow tail damsel
- Green clown goby (Gobiodon atrangulatus
- Lawnmower blenny (Salarias fasciatus)
- Banggai cardinal (Pterapogon kaudneri
- 3 peppermint shrimps (Lysmata wurdemanni, which made a terrific job on
Aiptasia :)
- 2 cleaner shrimps (Lysmata amboinensis)
- Several hermit crabs and snails
The 2 cleaner shrimps and the iridis wrasse were added 4 days ago. The cleaners
are doing great and have taken cleaning station on a rock (haven't seen them
clean a fish yet though). The wrasse is also doing good, besides the fact that
it had me worried the second and third day. It buried itself in the sand for the
night (which I've heard/read is normal for these fishes), but didn't come out
until 9 pm (my lights are on from noon to midnight)! Today, I don't know at what
time it came out, but when I came home at 5 pm, it was already swimming nicely.
It easily accepted frozen food, but was reticent with flakes for the first 2
days.
<Don't really eat much dried/prepared food>
So, my question was (sorry for the long intro!) : I wish to add tangs to my
setup (not right now, maybe in a couple of months) and would like your advice on
the species I've selected. I'd like to add :
- Achilles tang (Acanthurus achilles)
<Yikes... not easily kept in captivity, and very prone to protozoan complaints>
- Blue hippo tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)
- Desjardini sailfin tang (Zebrasoma desjardini
<A gorgeous species... but does get very large...>
My concern is mainly about the achilles (and a little about the hippo). I've
read/heard it wasn't a very hardy fish. What advice could you give me on that
fish?
<Mmm, just that... I would hold off for now on an Achilles... really do much
better in very mature, large systems... the other two would be okay here>
To reduce aggression between the tangs I plan to add all three of them
simultaneously. Do you think this is a bad idea?
<Mmm... well, I would likely place the Paracanthurus first... wait a few weeks,
then the Zebrasoma... not so much that they will fight to the point of real
damage, but the increase in bio-load, the change in dynamic with the other
livestock... less stressful to stagger here... and leave out the Achilles>
Also, some people told me the hippo tang needs a larger tank once at full size.
What is your opinion on that?
<Likely will be fine here for a very long time>
Here are the other fishes I would like to add (in the order I would add them)
- Pair of percula clownfish (Amphiprion percula)
- One or two purple firefish (Nemateleotris decora)
<Two would be far better than one>
- Green mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus)
- Bellus angelfish (Genicanthus bellus)
- A butterfly, probably a longnose (Forcipiger flavissimus or the longirostris)
- Tangs!
I would also like to introduce schooling fishes. I had some chromis before
(Chromis viridis). They are nice fish, but I'd like something more colorful.
I thought about anthias, but some can be hard and require frequent feeding to
ensure success.
<Mmm, do look around... seek out a grouping that are not "too" thin... there are
some quite hardy species for a setting like yours>
Which would you recommend and how many would you put in my setup?
<Please see WWM re the Anthiines... likely two species... Perhaps squamipinnis
and Bartlett's... but there are several other choices>
I also recently discovered the chalk bass (Serranus tortugarum) which gets along
well in groups. Do you have any advice on this fish?
<Mmm... well... I'd rather see this kept with other tropical West Atlantic
species, settings>
Finally, I'd like to know your opinion on my fish list and introduction order.
Anything that wouldn't get along?
Thank you very much,
Marc.
<Looks fine to me. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tang compatibility and introduction order 3/28/07
Thank you very much for your reply. Regarding the Achilles, if I do introduce
one in my system, it shouldn't be before quite some time.
<Correct>
I'll wait until my system has matured and it shall be my last addition.
<Very good... I do wish you were out here with me, diving in Hawai'i, seeing
this fish, going out with collector friends... feeling how soft-bodied this
Acanthurus is... how easily damaged... Perhaps only time, personal experience
will bring to your awareness the fragility of this species>
And on the anthias, these were the two species I retained. I might go with the
Bartlett's.
<Ahh, a good choice... do look for some "freshly arrived" grouping... 3,5,7
individuals...>
Again, thank you very much and keep up the good work,
Regards,
Marc.
<Welcome my friend. Am trying. BobF>
Ventralis anthias in my 90 gal – 03/15/07
Hi Bob,
In the last email I sent, you were saying it would be best to keep Ventralis
Anthias in groups for their health and happiness. In a 90 gallon tank would the
male become aggressive if I add a couple females, or should they settle in
fine?
<This latter>
I had bought the one male because I was concerned about aggression, in my
earlier times of marine aquarium keeping I had a rather scary incident with
squampinnis anthias and a 2 week "war" that ended with 4 dead fish (not
anthias) and 2 anthias left out of a group of 9! Needless to say I have been
much more careful with them ever since. I don't have any experience yet with
Ventralis Anthias, this species is new to me, the male I have is doing well so
far, not thin, very active and doesn't hide one bit in his quarantine tank.
With my fairly heavy stock list would you recommend more anthias?
<Mmm, well, more space would be of obvious advantage... You could try just one
(slightly smaller) female... if two, one decidedly much smaller than the others
(also female). Bob Fenner>
below is the copy of my previous email.
Brian
Anthiines for a 75 Gallon Reef - 11/07/06
Hey guys,
<<Gals here too...>>
I have a 75-gallon LPS reef with a 50-gallon breeder as my refugium.
<<Neat!>>
I have a purple tang, yellow watchman goby (hardly ever see him), true perc.,
and a black perc..
<<Mmm, the tank is really too small for the purple tang...in my opinion>>
Is there any male/ 2 female anthias that you recommend for this system?
<<Pseudanthias bartlettorum (Bartlett's Anthias) are relatively small and
supremely hardy...as anthias go>>
Or what anthias do you recommend to keep one by themselves in this system?
<<The Bartlett's anthias can also be kept singly, and Pseudanthias squamipinnis
(Lyretail Anthias) are fairly hardy though larger Anthiines that will be fine as
a single specimen>>
Thanks,
Greg
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>
Lyretail Anthias...Females Turning to Males - 10/06/06
Good evening.
<<Hello>>
I recently purchased 3 female Lyretail Anthias, and they all appear to be
healthy and getting along with one another.
<<Excellent...one of the better/hardier species for aquarium keeping in my
opinion>>
I was wondering if the most dominant will eventually become male?
<<Indeed she will>>
How long does this normally take?
<<Hmm...have seen it begin almost immediately...completed in as little as a few
weeks time>>
I know all Anthias can undergo a sex-change when a harem's male dies, but I was
unsure about my situation because they were all female.
<<No worries mate, the dominant female will "convert." You may even want to
consider adding another female to spread the aggression among "pecking order" of
the remaining females. Having "too few' can sometimes be worse than having too
many>>
Sorry if this was a silly question.
<<Not at all my friend>>
Dan
<<Regards, EricR>>
Dispar or Purple Queen...Which Anthias Species
is More Suitable? - 07/22/06
Hello WWM crew,
<<Howdy Joe>>
Love your site and what you do for the aquarists world.
<<As Anthony C. was so fond of saying..."is a labor of love">>
I own both Bob's and Anthony's books "some of the best reading available
for the hobby IMO".
<<Am much in agreement with you my friend>>
I am currently interested in keeping some of the before mentioned
Anthias in my system and I want to know which would be better suited.
<<Not as flashy as the other, but a beauty in its own right, the Dispar
is much better suited for aquarium life over the Purple Queen. Do
peruse Bob's two-part article on Anthiinae here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm>>
And your advice in how to do so... My current system info is as
follows:
210 gallon acrylic bow front 60x30x30 with 50 gallon sump...mostly SPS
coral...lots of caves with a mix of Tonga branch and Fiji live rock
about 180lbs. 2x250 MH 14000K with 240W actinic on timers...
1/3 hp JBJ chiller temp between 77-79...Korallin calcium reactor...Red
Sea ozone 100mg with controller set at 25mg per hour...ASM G4
skimmer...2 Dolphin Amp-Master 3000 pumps one for return and one on a
closed-loop...25 gallons a week water change regimen with Instant
Ocean...all water parameters to SPS coral requirements. Tank is very
stable.
My current inhabitants:
5"Powder Blue tang
Pearly jaw fish
Synchiropus splendidus/mandarin
Red velvet wrasse
Midas blenny
Bicolor blenny
Pseudochromis fridmani/purple
Skunk cleaner shrimp
Coral banded shrimp
Sally lightfoot crab
3 Emerald crabs
Assorted snails
I feed a mixture of Cyclop-Eeze, oyster eggs, DT's phyto-plankton,
Selcon, Mysid, a pre-made angel/butterfly frozen food and Nori.
My wife and I really love these Anthias and would love to have 1 male
and 2 females, what do you recommend?
<<Considering your current stocking level/system size/setup, I think a
male Dispar Anthias with 3-5 females would be fine here>>
Thanks in advance
Joe
<<Is my pleasure to assist. Regards, EricR>>
Squareback Anthias...Not a Beginner Fish - 06/28/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I found your website last night and I've barely been away from it to sleep
since! I can't express how fantastic it is to discover all of the seemingly
impossible-to-find info on the saltwater hobby gathered in one place on the net.
<<Ay...gobs of info to absorb...>>
Thank you for saving me many headaches :)
<<Welcome...a collaborative effort>>
Though we had a reef tank years ago that thrived nicely, it's been several years
since and I feel out of the loop with all the current ideas and technology.
<<Yes...new ideas/discoveries/advancements...>>
My concerns actually arose while reading several of your previously answered
letters.
<<Oh?>>
My 55 gallon tank was cycled with 40 pounds of live rock and a couple hermit
crabs for 2 months. A couple weeks after the test kits showed my water was of
near perfect quality, with zero on ammonia and nitrites and very minimal
nitrates,
<<Mmm, would have expected this to be "zero" as well>>
I bought my first fish - a super cute Squareback Anthias (Pseudanthias
pleurotaenia) male.
<<A fish for advanced hobbyists...in my opinion. Often starve to death...or
just die "mysteriously"...>>
He's been in my tank for two days, off and on coming out from his cubby hole in
the rock.
<<No quarantine eh?>>
I tried to feed a pinch of frozen krill this evening, but he seemed frightened
by either my close proximity or the opening of the canopy lid.
<<My experience with this species has been that it is generally quite
bold. Perhaps the fish is still "skittish" from the stresses of
collection/transportation. Adding a couple small "dither" fish might help to
make the squareback feel more comfortable as well>>
I'd left him completely alone before trying to feed him so he could settle in,
and I figured it wasn't abnormal behavior when he didn't eat at the first
attempt.
<<Is not uncommon...but you need to keep trying to get this fish to feed. The
sooner it starts, the better>>
Are these fish too tough to keep for a semi-novice, and do you think my tank
specs are enough to keep him happy?
<<The tank sounds fine for a single specimen of this species, though ideally you
would have let it "mature" for 6-12 months before attempting this fish. But as
stated earlier, Pseudanthias pleurotaenia can be tough to keep alive. I would
like to suggest you obtain some frozen Mysis shrimp along with my favorite for
getting finicky fish to start feeding...glass worms...aka - mosquito
larvae. And give these a soak in Selcon prior to feeding>>
Also, if he does prove difficult to feed, should I try to gather a harem of
girly squarebacks to boost his ego??
<<I have seen this species kept in groups in large systems (several hundred
gallons), but I strongly recommend you don't try this in a 55...would most
likely end badly for all but one...even if they begin to eat. But adding a
couple small, hardy fish may go a long way towards getting the squareback to
begin feeding>>
He did eat some frozen krill at the store, and was swimming around happily
showing off his almost neon pink coloration.
<<Ah yes, a beautiful fish...one of my wife's favorites>>
The research I'd done on the web told me that these were somewhat hardy
individuals and that keeping one male in a 55 would be acceptable.
<<Mmm, differing opinions/degrees of "somewhat" I suppose...I would class this
fish as "somewhat difficult". Not impossible to keep...and a better choice than
some other Anthiinae that come to mind (Pseudanthias tuka, Pseudanthias
evansi)...but definitely not my first pick for a "semi-novice" with a "new"
system>>
However, on this site so many readers wrote to complain that their Anthias
wouldn't eat.
<<A common issue, yes>>
Also, it was mentioned numerous times that these are very social fish and
shouldn't be kept as singular specimens.
<<Mmm, with caveats...beginning with the size of the system>>
One letter even mentions that he didn't want to take these fish as the prize
he'd won because they are notoriously difficult to keep!
<<Sounds like maybe your research wasn't finished before you purchased this
fish?>>
I am by far not an expert in this hobby o' mine,
<<Neither am I...>>
but here's what's going on: 8 gallon water changes are performed weekly by my
hubby.
<<Lucky you <grin> >>
We have a ten gallon sump with a (I think) magma filter that runs carbon,
<<Magnum?>>
a Berlin skimmer that is by popular consensus archaic and near useless,
<<Better than some, worse than others...a much better performing AquaC
(Remora/Urchin) can be purchased for about the same money>>
and I'm working on finishing up an over-hanging refugium that will house the
usual fuge stuff - macro algae, live sand, bits of live rock and hopefully lots
of good bacteria and 'pods.
<<Wish you had done this "before" acquiring the Anthias>>
Temp is steady at 76, and SG is right on target.
<<What is "target?" NSW levels of 1.025/1.026 I hope>>
We did have a brown algae issue for about a week, but my cleaner crew seems to
have taken care of most of it.
<<Likely the natural algal succession of a new system>>
Thank you so much and sorry if I rambled on,
Jennifer
<<No worries Jennifer. Do try my suggestions for getting the squareback to eat,
but if it doesn't take food soon you may want to consider returning the fish to
the store. Good luck, EricR>>
Anthias Pair In 70 Gallon Tank? - 02/12/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
Is it possible to keep a pair of Anthias (of a smaller type) in a 70g reef cube
or would the male pester the female too much?
Thanks,
Ben
<<Is possible...Bartlett's Anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum) would be a good
specie to try this with. Regards, EricR>>
Anthias Question 11/30/05
Hello WWM Crew,
<Frank>
First I'd like to let you know how invaluable your website has been to me in starting my new hobby.
<Thank you>
I have set up a 55 gal. tank which currently has 1 Blue Hippo Tang, 1 Eel Goby and 2 Yellow-tailed Damsels (relatively non-aggressive as long as you
don't go near "their" cave) along with 40lbs of LR and a cleaning crew (snails, hermits, peppermint shrimp and a cleaner shrimp) and I was
interested in adding 2 or 3 Lyretail Anthias. Would this be too much of a bioload for my tank to handle?
<Frank, hippos can attain a length of up to one foot in properly sized aquariums. Your tank will eventually be too small to add any more fish unless you plan on a larger tank in the future. Anthias really do best with one male and several females. A 125 gallon tank is minimum in my opinion. They are not easy fish to keep as most are rated moderate to difficult. Do research the
Anthias if you are considering these in the future.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks in advance, Frank
<You're welcome>
Overstocked or Over-rocked?
It's all About the "O"! 11/12/2005
Hello,
I've got a 40 gallon breeder tank and am currently curing 40 pounds of live rock in it. Once I cure it I'll put the rock I have from my 12 gallon
aquarium that has gotten sort of overstocked.
<... even less room after adding all this rock...>
The aquarium has a carbon filter and protein skimmer. Anyhow, would you advise putting a male-female
pair of Anthias, or a male and two females of possibly Lyretail Anthias, Bimaculatus Anthias, or Resplendent Anthias. They would be sharing the space
with a ocellaris clownfish, blue tang, green mandarin, a pair of banded coral shrimp, and two peppermint shrimp.
Brian
<Mmm, nope... not enough room for "any of the above".... If you didn't have any fish here, you might fit a Fathead Anthias in... Bob Fenner> Pseudanthias squamipinnis 11/9/05
Hi Bob,
<McBirneys>
I have been very careful with every item I have put in my tank. I need your opinion on your "favorite" Anthias, per information I was reading. I have a 150 gallon, and from what I was reading on your "animal
library" web page under Anthias, you mentioned 1 male to 4 or 5 females.
<For this, many other species of the subfamily, yes>
I then read on wet web that only one per tank, a lot of females (how many would that be?) or just a few in a big system.
<Yes to these inputs as well... as many females as you have space for are allowable... one per fifteen gallons or so...>
I have a reef/fish system and I did read they are very aggressive.
<Mmm, I would say not very aggressive... compared to some abstract scale for marine reef fishes>
Would my Nassarius snails, cleaner shrimp, and peppermint shrimp be in jeopardy?
<Doubtful the Anthiines will fool with any of these>
Would I not suggest this to people who have reefs?
<Au contraire! A great fish for color, behavior, compatibility... in many large such settings>
I work at a store in Las Vegas, and we try to not carry fish that would not work well in captivity.
<Good>
I have ordered some of these due to their hardiness, and I want to advise our customers as to the number in their
tanks.
<Mmm, you've covered it here pretty much... One definite male per... unless the system is several hundred gallons... as many females as they'd like up to a limit per gallonage...>
Obviously a small tank would house only one female. For myself, would 2 or 3 females in a 150 be okay.....(remember I have
shrimp).
<Yes>
Thanks and take care. Carrie :)
<Thank you Carrie. Bob Fenner>
Compatibility: Anthias, Tangs, etc. 8/9/05
Hey Crew! :-)
<Jenn>
I had a couple of questions on compatibility. First off, my tank will be
225-gallons with a large sump and a "sensible" amount of live rock. Not
into the "rock wall" thing some aquarists have going, I like more of a
loosely packed "tunnel-ly cave" idea.
<Okay>
First questions relate to Anthias. I'd like to have several in my tank as a
focal point. Rather than one individual of many types of fishes, I'd like
to play around with a few species, and keep them in pairs or schools. For
Anthias, I was wondering what a comfortable number would be for a school,
considering the space?
<Depending on the species... a trio to a dozen or more>
Other fishes would be gobies, tangs, a pair of
clowns, and perhaps some Genicanthus sp. angels. Also, WILL the Anthias
school in the aquarium??
<Most species, yes... some are not schoolers>
Lastly (relating to Anthias) in a tank this size
would two species co-habitate as they do on the reef?
<Could>
If so, then which two
species might I have the best luck with?
<Many choices... best to use WWM, fishbase.org and pick out two that you can
get, that are found in the same geographic area, habitat...>
If not, then how many MALES of one
species are likely to establish themselves in a tank this size without
encroaching on one another's' territory?
<One of each species>
Okay second batch relates to tangs. I know the general consensus is one
tang per species per tank. But lately I've happened across several tanks
with 2 or more Acanthurus tangs in them, not to mention other species of
tangs... and I've seen SEVERAL tanks with two to three Zebrasoma sp. Now,
aside from the fact that this is impossible (hehe) how is it best/safely
accomplished?
<Adding all at once, when small, and/or adding new ones that are much
smaller...>
I'm thinking an achilles and a powder blue...
<Not easily kept...>
But if I can't be satisfied they'll live long, happy lives, then I'll opt for a
regal
instead of the powder blue and go that route. So this is more of an
exploratory question, as I'm wondering how so many other people do it
successfully. :-)
Thanks!
Jenn
<Is done... often... with space, hiding places... enough food. Bob Fenner>
Squarespot Anthias stocking
Good morning Crew!
<Barbara>
I recently got a free 75g...haven't set it up yet but
I wanted to run a few questions by the experts before
I buy anything. I really like the Squarespot Anthias,
I would like to have a male in this tank. My plan is
to use some of the LR from my 55g reef tank to start
the cycle, add 6 to 8 saltwater acclimated mollies to
the tank to keep it going (and also I thought they
might provide a food source with their offspring). I
will then add 4 to 6 peppermint shrimp for the same
reason. I am also going to have some macros in the
tank. I'm also going to wait until the tank has
matured (3 months or so) before I add the Squarespot.
Sound good so far?
<Yes>
Eventually I would like to add as
tankmates, a long nosed butterfly and a dwarf fuzzy
lion (after the Anthias is bigger). I would appreciate
any thoughts or ideas you might have about this
arrangement.
Thanks!
Barb
<These should all go... I would try a small male Squarespot... added a few weeks
after placing maybe two small females here... Much more interesting... Bob
Fenner> How Many are Too Many...Part 2 (4/30/05)
Hi again,
<Hi. Steve Allen back with you.>
Would you recommend any other smaller Anthias that are easier to care for? There should be a lot more room in the tank soon anyway, because I am expecting the parrotfish to die, as it refuses to eat.
<I would not give up on it too easily. Be sure to try a variety of different foods. Perhaps you can find another aquarist or a fish store that can give it a try.>
Anyway, so what other Anthias would you recommend for this tank once the parrotfish is gone, that are easier to care for than
squarebacks?
<I would suggest that you check out the information about Anthias on WWM and in the book "Marine Fishes" by Scott W. Michael. No
Anthias is easy. They like room to swim and need to be fed several times per day. The best way to accomplish that is with an upstream refugium (search WWM) supplying a flow of microcrustaceans into the tank.>
Thanks for your help,
Joe Marano
<I hope it helps. Do the research and you ought to be able to find what you need.> Stocking and Sexing Bicolor Fancy Bass
Anthony,
I keep reading that Anthias should be stocked 1 male with the remaining being
female. How do you tell a male and female Bicolor? I know that the male is
larger in size but other then that, I can't find any color differences that
other members of the species show.
<Mmm, females are quite similar... a distinctive difference is their dorsal
fin structure and coloration. In females the third ray is extended, the second
and third in the males which are bright yellow at their ends... And it would be
better to have more than one female with your male... in a quite large (at least
one hundred gallon) system. Bob Fenner, who encourages you to read about
Pseudanthias bicolor on fishbase.org, where you can click on the image, see
other images, scan Googles crawl of Net images.>
Thanks,
Mark Johnson
Square Anthias
I don't have many fish in my reef. Considering putting in a male square
Anthias, and a few females. I know they can be solitary, and if multiple ones
are placed, should be placed at the same time and one male with multiple
females. The tank is quite large and peaceful (360g) so space shouldn't be too
much of an issue. Is this species ok with one pink male, and 3 or 4 females ? Or
should it just be one male, one female ? Thanks
Jim
<A great fish for the right setting. The cover of the hobby mag. FAMA has a
nice male shot I took in Australia a few months back for their August issue. I
would definitely go with a group of females in this size system... much more
"natural"... and will afford you and your livestock many more
interesting possibilities for such behavior. Bob Fenner>
Re: Square Anthias
Bob, thanks for the response. Just got 6 females and a male Anthias. One of
the females is 'orange', while the rest are yellow. The male is obviously pink
squared.
<An intermediary... "next" male in line...>
Anyhow, that orange one has a real faint square showing. I imagine it is perhaps
about to turn, or has just turned male ????
<Mmm, yes... sort of... subdominant>
Will the presence of the male cause it to just stay as a female or has it
already turned and they'll eventually be doomed together ???
<In your size system, likely stay a "non-functioning", not total
male>
Other than that, they are in excellent shape and have already started eating on
the Mysis. They are in quarantine for a few weeks until I put them in the main
tank.
As a side question, are male Anthias, one to a tank for same species or across
the entire genus. In other words, can a pair of ventralis Anthias peacefully
co-exist in a large tank ? Thanks
Jim
<Many males, harems of all species can coexist in large enough systems. Bob
Fenner>
- Anthias Selection -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
Hello guys, I saw a Ventralis Anthias in my LFS and was really impressed.
<They are pretty.> I occasionally hear of people putting a single one of
these into a smaller system (30-40 gallons, fish only). <You hear about it,
but do you hear about their long term viability? I don't.> Other times I read
about putting this type of fish in a larger system only. <That is my
recommendation.> Is the larger size necessary only when keeping multiple
Anthias? <No, it's important to the issue of water quality and physical
space.> Can a single be kept in a healthy, yet smaller environment? <Not
of this species, and really even the more hardy variety do better with larger
tanks, the super large tanks [200g plus] are necessary for groups/harems.>
Thanks for the tips.
<Cheers, J -- >
Pseudanthias evansi 9/28/04
HI all- Just was wondering if you knew of anyone keeping Pseudanthias
evansi successfully? I have experience with several species (Pseudanthias
bimaculatus, bicolor, bartlettorum, cooperi, and the fasciatus shown on your
website) and was wanting to try this one. <If you have been successful with
other Anthiines, you may be better equipped than the average hobbyist to
maintain P. evansii. Do keep in mind that there are many factors that make
these fish difficult. They often suffer from deep water collection, poor
handling and shipping stress. They often won't feed around aggressive
tankmates. Extended quarantine in suitable quarters is advised both to ensure
freedom from disease as well as to give them time to associate the keeper with
feeding. Multiple feedings per day are recommended (often required), and
sometimes all non-living foods are refused. This is a tricky one for most of us
with real jobs!>
When I have seen them in stores I have never seen one actually eat, but they
were usually singles or pairs. What do you think? Doomed? Thanks, John Boe
<Refusal to eat is generally a good sign to avoid purchasing any fish. However,
if you plan on making a dedicated, conscientious attempt at keeping this fish I
would not let this alone preclude your purchase. Lack of cover and excess of
activity in the retail environment may have a lot to do with refusal of these
fish to feed. Providing live foods in a quarantine environment with minimal
traffic, subdued light and plenty of cover may get them feeding. Contrary to
popular belief, attempting to maintain shoals of Anthias is folly. Constant
bickering usually ends with one surviving male and sometimes a female. I would
not suggest attempting more than a pair. These fish are most certainly doomed
in all but the most skilled, conscientious hands. Buying such fish always begs
the ethical question of saving these individuals vs. encouraging more collection
of a difficult species. Consider this dilemma and your skills carefully and
perhaps politely expouse the benefits of supplying customers with hardier
choices to your LFS. Lastly, do look for the recent print article by Scott
Michael on his top ten choices for Anthias in captivity (Aquarium Fish Magazine
I think). Scott's advice is top notch. Best Regards. Adam>
Randall's Anthias 9/17/04
I'm looking for info about the temperament and heartiness of
specifically the Randall's Anthias. I can't seem to find any
hobbyists who have kept them. Are they pretty new?
<not at all... but you have not found much info because they are a simply dismal
species to attempt to keep in captivity. Most conscientious aquarists will leave
these species in the ocean. They are very delicate, most always require live
foods (gut loaded prey is a must here)... they need dim tanks and very passive
tankmates. One male can be kept with several females in large aquaria (200
gall-ish)>
I've gotten as much info as I can about Anthias in general, but I know they can
vary from type to type. I won a complete setup at a raffle and five were
included.
<wow... how very irresponsible of the donor to show and offer these fishes as an
impulse/prize animal. Simply irresponsible - this is a very delicate species for
expert care only in mature tanks>
One unfortunately didn't make it, but the others are doing
well.
<they may hang in for some weeks or even months. It is very unlikely they will
survive to even see one year in captivity. Mark my words, my friend. You might
save them if you make this a species tank and focus as per above
needs/instructions>
I'm trying to decide if the four will be ok or if I should get
another three females (hopefully from the same batch) as soon as
possible. They will be in a 120 with 100g sump with few tankmates.
(probably a CBB and a pair of O clowns)
<please do not import/buy any more of these fishes my dear... not until you have
demonstrated an ability to keep the current ones (healthy over 6 months). Best
of luck, Anthony>
|
- Problems with Squamipinnis Trio -
Hello to all the marine mavens at WWM.
Quickly, the system: 5 y.o. 110g FO w/misc. inverts (2 Lysmata hermits,
snails and 140# FIJI LR, 190g total system 1 return through a 30g
Miracle Mud ref. and the other return through 40g 5" Deep Sand Bed
reactor tank (Nitrates 0). They dump to a sump with AquaMedic T 1.000
skimmer and AquaC Remora. Fish in tank are 1, 6" (w/o tail) Sohal tang,
3.5" Purple tang (they get along with little to no aggression! I'm
lucky!), pair of ocellaris clowns, 1 Banggai cardinal. Feed about 1/3
dollar-bill sized Nori sheet and calculator-button-sized piece of Marine
Supreme Plus or frozen Mysis once a day. I do a 30G water change about
every month. I have 2 separate quarantine tanks (30g and 10G) that run
always and move the AquaC to the 30G when quarantining newcomers so I
get no ammonia readings during quarantining. These tanks have Marineland
Penguin bio-wheel filters and get occasional water changes with waste
water from main system water changes so the bacteria keeps happy.
The perplexing problem:
I wanted to add some smaller, colorful swimmers to the community. Red
Sea natives if possible. After much reading in WWM and Hamlet-like
deliberations I purchased a male and two female Lyretail form a mail
order source (since the specimens at LFS generally look terrible). I
received a fine looking male, 1 fine female and 1 smaller female. I gave
them a 2 min, temp, pH adjusted FW dip with a few drops of Meth-blue and
put them in the 30G q-tank. After a day or two they were all eating
frozen Mysis piggishly 3 times a day. After about a week, the larger
female began chasing the male(!) until he hid all the time under some
PVC, behind a pump, etc. Came out to eat though and then hid again.
After a few days of this, he died(!) Now the large female and the
smaller female were left in the 30G for another week and the smaller
female started hiding all the time so I decided to get them in the
display since the 30G was maybe just too small and you advise in other
posts to get them in main system ASAP. So, in the main system they go
along well with everybody and even schooled around the clowns (because
of similarity of color?), but after a few days the larger female began
breathing heavily and hiding all the time and eventually died (about a
week in the main display) in sort of a cloud of white filmy smoke
surrounding its carcass. Now only the smaller female is left. Its
breathing was OK but eventually hid all the time and one day just
disappeared (week later).
Is there something toxic in the system and the others are just riding it
out or what? <Probably not... I will explain.> I feel like such a
failure. There is some BGA in main display and what looks like turtle
grass in DSB otherwise I just don't get it?!? <Unfortunately, schools
of Anthias rarely work. There is a dynamic that exists when they are in
huge groups as they are in the wild that gets magnified when small
groups are kept in captivity, and it seems the smaller the group the
quicker they all croak. Pretty much, the dominant female is always
trying to become the dominant male. The omega female [that's the one on
the bottom of the heap] is always getting it from the dominant male and
dominant female. In short, this is stressful for everyone, in your case
all three. Quite often this stress just accumulates, so what likely
happened to your fish was the end result of the stress. Your display
system just isn't quite large enough to house a school of Anthias. I've
seen them work in a 240, but even then there are random disappearances,
usually first from the bottom, and then the male who is replaced by the
dominant female. I think it's better to try just one, or go with Anthias
who are better known for peaceful pairing like the square-spots.>
John
<Cheers, J -- > |
Look before you leap/purchase
I RECENTLY PURCHASE A SQUARE BOX ANTHIAS AGAINST MY BETTER JUDGMENT. <Then why did you buy "him"? I take it this is a/the more colorful gender member> I HAVE HEARD THESE FISH ARE DIFFICULT TO KEEP. <Historically,
yes> I HAVE HIM IN A 75 GAL REEF
WITH ONLY TWO OTHER TANK MATES A SCOPAS TANG AND A CORAL BEAUTY. COULD YOU
GIVE ME SOME ADVICE SO THAT I MAY HAVE SOME SUCCESS KEEPING THIS FISH ALIVE?
DO THEY REQUIRE ANY SPECIAL CARE? WILL ONE BE ENOUGH ?
>>
<Better kept with a couple of females (yellow)... once trained on meaty food items (they're zooplanktivores in the wild>, in a peaceful arrangement (they should be the dominant species), in a large (at least a hundred gallons), with lots of water movement, good filtration, this species can live a good long while... Most die because of one of the above missing elements.
Bob Fenner>
Anthias, Mandarins.
<Kim, Lorenzo Gonzalez here, holding down the fort for Bob while he's underwater in Asia for a
couple weeks.>
I just purchased an Anthias, though I thought it was a purple queen I am
beginning to think it's not! He is most definitely no purple for one thing, but a brilliant orange. And there was nothing shy about him at all. I must say this fish was an impulse buy, my husband took me to the store to get my little
Singapore angel and he picked this Anthias out as well.
<Glad to hear you feel guilty about the 'impulse buy'... :-) >
I was not interested in Anthias in anyway...and from reading your information I am reminded why. Though this fish was a little more then most of my other tank inhabitants, he seems to be the nicest one in there! I worried about him the first night,
noting that he had ick on his pectorals and that his color was poor, but the next morning at feeding time....well you would never have known he was the same fish (by the way I really don't know if it's a he or a she but I named it Felix so it's a he)
<If she's not a he, she probably will be eventually, without a bigger 'he' around to keep her a she... Anthias are like that.>
His color was bright a fiery, his attitude about the food I put in there (plain old brine shrimp) was exuberant! In fact he eats better then the pair of lemon damsels that I have in
there. my tank
is a 60 gal with about 50 -60 lb of live rock and 40 lb of sand.) He seems to have taken the tank over and has even put the little six-line
wrasse in it's place, it kept pouncing on my scooter blenny. The most amazing thing is his curiosity, it overwhelms even the
wrasse. He wants to see everything!!! Last night I was mopping the
floor this was only his second night with us) and he followed me around the tank as if trying to figure out what the heck I was doing. It was really quite cute. And everybody else in the tank comes out now, I've seen more of my lemon damsels and my
wrasse in the last two days then I have in the last four months.
<The 'dither-fish' effect, in reverse! (Usually a bunch of small, 'stupid' fish are used to get a bigger, shy one to come around)>
But the true reason I wrote was that I needed some more info on this fish or just
Anthias in general, since I'm not really sure what he is.
<Go to www.FishBase.org and type in 'Anthias' in the common name search, to figure out which sort you have. Then read Bob's articles, and/or Conscientious Marine Aquarist.>
I usually research my fish to death, just ask the guy at the pet store, I think I drive him mad with all my questions. I have to write them down I have so many.
<That's sure a good practice, sure is. >
It took me almost 2 years of reading and research before I even set up my tank. But I wanted my husband to enjoy this thing too, so I thought I'll get this and see what happens....well now he's my favorite fish, and I want to keep him happy and healthy, and alive.
<Glad to hear you're both enjoying it so!>
Another thing I had to ask about was the dismal report on the dragonets, the whole reason for starting my tank was to in the end purchase on of these magnificent animal...but not to have it die. Has there been any good news on these fish? Is there anything extra I need to do?
<Yes. And I hate to say this: You'll need to get rid of the little wrasse, and the 'scooter blenny' (if it's the 'scooter' of the same family as the dragonet you so desire), before you purchase your Mandarin. The 60 gallon isn't big enough to produce food for all these direct competitors, even with the mountain of live rock you're piling up. You should wait until the tank is a year established, as well.>
I plan on having well over 100 lbs of rock before I even think of getting one (Though resisting has been VERY hard) I would really appreciate anything you could give me as far as information.
<You've got a great attitude, and a responsible approach to all this: very nice to see that. A crop of feather, bubble, cup (harder to keep) or common 'strap'
Caulerpa will help provide a breeding ground for the tiny creatures your future mandarin will need to eat. Quite good for the general water quality as well.>
Just as a side note: My tank is a 60 gal 6 mo old. It has a emperor 400 And power heads at each
end I will be getting a skimmer soon) There are 2 lemon damsels, a scooter blenny, a six-line
wrasse, a
Singapore angle, as well as a cleaning crew of sundry crabs and snails, and soon some shrimp.
<Sounds just like one of the tanks we have in the living room, even the Emperor 400, which we had leftover from our freshwater days. The only thing we have on there that you don't is a skimmer. Get one. I would highly recommend a Remora from AquaC. (www.proteinskimmer.com). Compact enough to hang between the wall and the tank, and very effective and safe. (no overflow) You won't believe what the skimmer will pull out of your water...
Best regards, Lorenzo >
Dispar Anthias
Dear Bob,
In looking at the last fish to add to our peaceful 140 gal. community (yellow tang, flame angel, sleeper goby, neon gobies, convicts, green
Chromis, royal Gramma, cleaner shrimp, soft corals, and SPS corals; I have seen the beautiful "Dispar
Anthias" from Hawai'i for sale at a fine retailer.
<A good choice in a small school... received "fresh", in good shape... and feeding>
They are about 2 to 2 1/2 inches, orange-pink and look a bit like a small grouper.
<Which they are! The subfamily Anthiinae is a part of the Basses, Groupers family Serranidae>
Can't find much on this species in books I have or searching WWM.
<Mmm, here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm>
Would you recommend it? How large will they become?
<Worth trying, about three inches>
As always, your advice is my direction. The fish I've lost was a cleaner wrasse bought on impulse without reference to TCMA or WWM where there was clear warning.
Howard
<You are aware, learning... and caring. All positive traits. Bob Fenner>
Anthias
Dear Bob,
Thanks for the information. I must have misspelled "Anthias"
<Ahh!>
on my search. WWM data and pictures are superb!
<Much more to come... soon, the capacity to make, show better, much larger scans... stay tuned>
I gather that I should either choose a single specimen or stock 3 or more of these beauties. Perhaps I should watt to find a species other than
"Dispar" species.
<Perhaps... most Anthiines better in odd numbered groupings... not singles. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again.
Howard
Anthias Fun
Hello WWM crew,
I need somebody to talk me off a ledge here. For two weeks I've been holding a 3.5"
Lyretail Anthias at my LFS.
<One week too long for my tastes. I would prefer to watch it and see if it was going to die from shipping stress. But once it was in the clear, I would much rather QT at home where I could feed it three times per day. Very few LFS have the time or inclination to do that.>
It has been in good shape for the entire time that they have had it - no disease, a little shy, but still well aware of its surroundings. Its belly is slightly pinched, but it chases after food very aggressively. I've had it fed a couple times while I watched, and I suspect that it is recovering from a fast due to shipping stress.
<Or just not getting fed at all.>
My best guess is that it was formerly a super male and has now regressed to subordinate male coloration...it still has just a little bit of the
super male appearance left, which I anticipate will fade.
Now, I know well and good how fragile Anthias are, and I've read the pertinent info on WWM as well as Scott Michael's articles, chat
transcripts, and books relating to them. Still, this appears to be an
unusually healthy specimen. Do you see any compelling reason so far to avoid it?
<Depends mostly on your tank and your husbandry. If you have read Scott Michael's works, you have a fair understanding of what will be required of you and your system. You will be the best judge if you can measure up.>
The complicating issue at hand is that I have an out-of-town move coming up in 2 weeks that will necessitate about 6-8 hours of time in the bag between tanks.
<You had my vote until here.>
The Anthias will be going into a 75 gallon, Berlin-style tank hooked up to a 30 gallon
sump/refugium. In the meantime, it will need to go into a 30 gallon standalone tank with a juvenile tomato clown, a 6-line wrasse, and a chalk bass. In your opinion, is this do-able?
<Definitely not the best situation.>
One last question...Michael's philosophy on the hardier Anthias species seems to be that, if you can't house a full harem, you're better off
keeping a solitary specimen rather than a small group. Do you agree?
<Yes>
Thanks for all your input...you guys run a great operation! Jason
PS - Picked up Anthony's book...great read, and very helpful. Any word on when Bob's next book will (finally) be released?
<We (Bob, Anthony, and I) will all be getting together over the next two weekends to discuss upcoming works. We will keep you all posted. -Steven Pro>
Anthias
Dear Jason and Anthony,
<<JasonC this time... greets,>>
For quite some time I had a pair of Pseudanthias evansi. Beautiful fish, they swam together. Unfortunately, I left a small opening in the aquarium lid and lost one, jumped out and perished (inexcusable carelessness). <<Bummer, do excuse yourself though at some point, this does happen to all of us at some point or another - I lost a harlequin tusk this way. If we don't make mistakes like this, how do we learn?>><Second,
other hand... RMF> The other is doing fine. <<Ahh good.>> I would like to replace his buddy. Can I add another of this
evansi species safely? <<Oh... good question - think it's a coin toss honestly. Often once territories are established, it can be hard to introduce new, same species fish... I think I would try.>> Other
Pseudanthias species? <<Odds are likely lower for a different species.>>
The balance of my community is peaceful: yellow tang, sleeper goby, green
Chromis, convicts, flame angel, cleaner gobies, and purple fire fish. Over 150 gallons. <<Ahh, this is a good size to make the attempt, at least a good amount of room to seek refuge from the potential aggression - which may never happen, mind you.>> Never had a disease process thanks to WWM advice on quarantine and water treatment. <<Ahh good, keep it up.>>
Howard
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Question: I have a mature 75 gal tank with both soft corals and fish and have a
few misc. questions that the books don't seem to agree or comment on.
- I would really like to get a cow fish. The big question, will the cow fish eat the
corals and the shrimps?
- I am about to purchase Chevron Tang and would like to know if it safe to add another
tang at a later date.
- I am considering getting a school of Anthias, any recommendations outside of the Dispar?
Bob's Answer: Hey Blithe, you're right, most books are not in agreement... and
if you ask me, many are obviously written by folks who have precious little practical or
scientific experience... Yep, the Lactoria (cowfish) will gladly munch all crustaceans and
some of your corals. Other tangs, even another Ctenochaetus should mix okay with the
Chevron. Just make sure they're larger or much smaller. Need to know more about you, your system to make broad generalizations re: the
Anthiinae. There is a huge range of survivability in the group (as large as any other fish
family), but I don't want to unduly influence browsers to try expensive fancy basses. Take
a gander at Scott Michael's new book for some pointers re: these miniature basses.
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