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Bimaculatus aggression (Pseudanthias
Small Anthias stuck in overflow box 12/27/13
About Ignitus Anthias/Dispar Anthias... stkg./comp. reading
Anthias; stkg./sel., comp.
Anthias - compatibility and tank introduction
What I have: a 500g FOWLR with some soft corals that has been running for a year and a half. Started off with some of the hardier fish i.e.: Damsels and Clowns. After a year and a half this is my current stock list: 6 Chromis, 1 Bicolor Angel, 1 Flame Angel, 2 Firefish, 1 Long Horned Cowfish,
<Will grow quite large here in time>
2 Blue Damsels, 2 Four Stripe Damsels, 2 Yellow Tangs, 2 Regal tangs, 2 Ocellaris, 1 Six Line Wrasse, 2 Magenta Dottybacks = 26 fish in all (all within 2-4 inches) Now all these fish seem to be getting along quite well but for the occasional squabble.. for the most part there seems to be enough space to keep them all happy. However I am noticing that my four stripe damsel is getting more and more territorial these days and the damsels get aggressive and chase each other once in a while.
<Yes; tis their nature, particularly Dascyllus as you've noted>
The Dottybacks (porphyreus) were added last (just a week ago) and I've already seen one go head on with the 6 Line Wrasse, then they seem cool with each other again.
<Sixline's are akin to Jack Russell breed dogs... Big fishes in little fish's bodies>
Now where I live Anthias are rare. For the first time i managed to get hold of 10 lyretail Anthias <2inch long and have them in QT. They are happy and eating just about anything i give them (rotifers, Mysis, brine, flakes, NLS, etc).
<Feed them often; several times per day... be on the lookout for excessive bullying; move the alpha fish/es to the main system if so>
My QT then developed a crack and I had to move them to the fuge They seems to like it here with all the rock and moving water. I've always loved this fish but never had the opportunity to get them until now. Now that i have them i am terrified of having them slaughtered in the DT... in your experience do you think the damsels / Dottybacks pose a serious treat?
would the grouping of the Anthias deter bullying?
<Mmm, the size/volume of your tank, the swiftness and smarts of the Anthias should hold them in good stead. You've done well by isolating the new fish, letting them rest up, grow acclimated to the main system water. I doubt you will have troubles between them and the established stock>
I've had the Anthias in the QT/fuge for 5 days now. It is a very small space in comparison to the DT. When can I move them to the DT?
Should I remove the 4 Stripe or the Dottybacks before I move them in?
<I wouldn't try, no>
Catching anything in my DT is going to be a huge challenge. Or do you think they may all just get along given the space in the tank?
<Highly likely so; yes>
I almost immediately regretted adding the damsels and the Dottybacks when I got them, but at the time figured tank size would take care of any problems.
Thanks for taking the time to read this!
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Anthias - compatibility and tank introduction
Thanks so much for the response, wasn't expecting something so quick!
I've been dying to get them in the DT, they do look lovely. As of now they all get along with each other, no aggression between the Anthias. .
<Thus far; will/do "bicker" in time... problematical when/where crowded>
The only thing that concerns me is feeding. In my fuge I am able to drop food right above them and wait as they come and grab it, do you think they will notice/get to the food in a 500g DT with a bunch of other aggressive eaters?
<Yes; consistency... where, when foods are placed... what you do ahead of offering becomes imprinted on all>
In the fuge a couple will see the food and then trigger a feeding frenzy with the others.
On another note how many fish (<=3 in community fish) do you suppose I could eventually stock in my tank moving forward?
<Many choices... peruse what is archived on WWM for FOWLRs, large systems, the compatibility FAQs for what you've already stocked.>
I always wanted a high tank and built mine to be 6(L) X 4 (H) X 3(W). Its a pain to clean sometimes but has the aspect ratio of a large screen TV which is nice.
Re: Anthias - compatibility and tank introduction 3/8/13
Just wanted to close the loop on this and let you know what happened. I released all 10 Anthias in the DT and they are all doing extremely well.
Eating like pigs. The damsels go at them once in a while but they seem to be swimming in the top half of the tank most of the time in front of the wave makers and avoid the damsels in the lower sections.
<And you for this follow-up. BobF>
Re: Seastar Issue, and now comp., sel. of P. squamipinnis
Thank you for your response to my Seastar issues. I have decided that two Fromia milleporella stars will be the extent of my future Seastar purchases, I am selling my conch, and working double time in building up the pods in my refugium.
As I may have mentioned, I currently have a 6 foot 125 gallon display with 40 gallon refugium and 40 gallon sump. I have 4 clowns, an indigo dotty back and a run of the mill cleaner wrasse. My intention is to add 1 male lyretail Anthias and two females, which I believe you indicated in your previous response would be ok for my size tank.
<These should be fine here>
A few questions have been on my mind, firstly are two females and one male going to be enough to distribute any aggression, or is that not a huge concern with Anthias?
<Not problematical w/ this species (Pseudanthias squamipinnis>
Are Anthias a dithering fish?
<Mmm, can be>
Fosters and Smith offer two types of lyretail Anthias, one they simply refer to as lyretail Anthias and another they refer to as Maldives Lyretails.
<Same (widely distributed) species:
The only difference that I notice, aside from price, is that the Maldives male appears orange, whereas the "generic" lyretail male appears more red.
<On close examination, this species shows more/less such differences here/there>
(I would prefer the red incidentally) and wonder if my perception is accurate.
I am also curious now as to whether the females from either region will be the same vibrant yellow color, or if their color varies from region to region as well.
Is there anything not commonly read about that would help me further with Anthias? Any skeletons in their closets?
<Not as far as I'm aware, and I've seen this species, collected it for the trade widely>
Also, I do like the look of a small school of blue green Chromis and was wondering if adding one in the future would be an option for me and if so, how many?
My only concern is that each time I have attempted this, they usually fight among themselves until there is only one survivor, I hate to see this and have read that it is common.
However I have not yet attempted a school in this size aquarium, I know that more Chromis will spread the aggression out, but am not sure if I have a big enough system, or enough room left, to hold the size school required.
<I give you good odds here>
I have seen beautiful blue reef Chromis, and was wondering if anyone has had better luck with these, or do they tend to pick each other off too?
<About the same>
I understand that I may just be better off stopping after the Anthias.
Incidentally, I have been tossing around the idea of moving my black ocellaris into a separate tank altogether to see if they will mate.
<Very common... in any size volume; easier to breed, raise young where in smaller, isolated settings>
One is clearly a very dominant female who has paired up with a little male.
Thank you as always for your advice!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
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Anthias/Compatibility 3/6/09 I have a 180-gallon reef tank with a Hippo Tang, Powder Brown Tang and 2 Ocellaris clowns. I would like to add maybe 2 or 3 different species of anthias. So far I am thinking of Dispar and Bartlett's. My question is should I get all male or all female? Or does it even matter? <Anthias do best when kept with their own species, I would not mix. One male to a harem generally works best. Anthias species all share the trait of being hermaphroditic. If a dominant male perishes, the largest female of the group will often morph to take its place. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm> Thanks for your help. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anthias/Compatibility 3/6/09 Thanks for the reply. <You're welcome.> Ok, so I will get all the same species and probably 3-4 females and then let one of them turn into a male on its own. Do you think Dispar would be ok or should I stick with Lyretail? <Will be up to you here. The Dispar is one of the hardiest of anthias and likely the most territorial. The Bartlett's usually commands at least double the price of a Dispar and is also one of the hardier specie of anthias.> Thanks again. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Midas Lyretail Compatibility Issue... Anthias stkg., beh. 2/27/09 Hi - <Hello Andy> I have a 150 gallon tank with 200# of live rock. I just added a Lyretail Anthias and he wants to desperately kill my Midas Blenny. <Mmm, yes... perhaps too similar, not wanting to share the same niches> From the research that I have done, I thought that the Midas was going to mimic the Lyretail. I also thought of the Anthias as quite a docile fish. <Well... for one, you really need to have more than the one... Pseudanthias squamipinnis is always found in good-sized shoals> Boy, was I wrong. The Anthias actually goes with an open mouth to bite my Midas in his own hole. I have never seen such direct aggression. They don't resemble each other except maybe a little shade of pink. What goes? <Displacement behavior... get more Anthias...> I tried to catch the Anthias but it's almost impossible to do so. It recognizes my net and scurries into the rocks. I can probably catch the Midas but I feel I am punishing the wrong fish. Do you think this "open mouth" aggression will stop? <Not likely enough...> The Midas is reciprocating, however, his fins are starting to tatter slightly and he hangs out in his hole a lot now. He's not going to die all of a sudden, right? <Quite possibly> I could catch the Midas possibly and then reintroduce him at a later time. Do you think that would work? I really prefer the Midas over the Anthias...I hope I am not stuck. Thanks, Andy <May not seem like a good idea, but adding a handful of subadult or female Pseudanthias squamipinnis is the route to go here... Read on WWM re Anthiine stocking... Bob Fenner>
Lyretail Anthias... comp., sel., sys. 9/27/07 I was thinking off purchasing some lyretail anthias <Likely Pseudanthias squamipinnis> for my 72 gallon tank. Upon doing my homework all seemed to be well as this is the hardiest of the anthias but then I read some questions I found disconcerting about the fishes attacking each other. <Mmm, yes... they live in large to very large shoals in their wide geographic range... establish and challenge "pecking orders" and ranging males continuously> Should I purchase 4 female Anthias for my tank with the assumption one would turn male or is it better to buy 3 females and one male? <Either way... but definitely only one certain male in a volume of this (small) size> I plan to QT them for a month <Mmm, for fishes as these... small, continuous zooplanktivores... a shorter duration, even just a dip/bath and a prayer, may prove more prudent... to forego starvation and its ill-effects> but will them being in the confined space of a 10 gallon QT tank lead them to aggression? <Oh yes... and over-stress in general> And lastly along with the 4 Anthias I have 2 ocellaris clowns, neon goby, blue-green Chromis and plan on getting a flame angel and royal Gramma. Is this to much for my tank? <Mmm, is right about some sort of maximum> I have 100 lbs of live rock and a good skimmer. Thanks for the help. Adam <Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>
Wrasse compatibility <Actually sel. to eat/control>, red bugs, <and comp. w/> Anthias 9/11/07 Hi Crew, Would you be able to help with the best choice for a small wrasse that likes to eat Acropora red bugs? <Um, this is not how one deals with red bugs.> From reading the FAQs it looks like the Six Line is an option, but I've seen them be aggressive and I have a trio of Bartlett's Anthias that I wouldn't want to be harassed. The tank is a 135G reef with 100+ lbs of live rock. Can you think of a small, red bug eating wrasse (or other fish/invert) that would tend to be less territorial than a Six Line? And do you think I would need more than one bug-eater in this size tank? <If you have a red bug infestation, you need to treat it with Interceptor. There's no aquarium fish (known to aquarists) that will solve this problem. See here: http://www.ericborneman.com/Tegastes-content/Dorton%20treatment.htm And maybe here too: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acrodisfaqs.htm> Thanks, Tom <De nada, Sara M.>
Adding Anthiines/Compatibility Issues -- 09/06/07 Hello Crew, <<Howdy>> I would like to start keeping Anthias (probably Bartlett's), but I am unsure if there will be compatibility issues with my current livestock. I would appreciate any opinions/advice you have. <<I'm happy to share>> Current setup: 150 gallon 3 year old lightly stocked reef, 160 lbs live rock, 2x250watt MH, Euro-Reef RS180, 50 gallon sump w/refugium. Livestock : 1 Black Cap Basslet 3 Pajama Cardinals 3 Clown Gobies 2 Neon Gobies 1 Pearly Jawfish 1 Ocellaris Clownfish 1 Crocea clam 1 Derasa clam Various Coral Thanks for your help. <<Adding some Anthias shouldn't be a problem...and Bartlett's are an excellent choice here. Do be aware they can be quite skittish when first introduced and might jump if startled/chased by other fishes (though I think this is a small concern re your stock list). This usually is not an issue once the Anthiines become established...and placing some plastic eggcrate material over the tank opening(s) for a week or two initially may help to keep them in the water where they belong. Regards, EricR>>
Dwarf Lion/Anthias Compatibility 4/22/07 Hello there. Thank you, in advance for your help. I have just spent hours reviewing the information on your site and have learned quite a bit. I've also spent a fair amount of time over the last few weeks learning about the saltwater aquarium and how to choose compatible tankmates. <Good> To provide a little background, I have been running freshwater tanks for approximately two years, including a 55-gallon African cichlid tank which I have had for the past year and a half or so. Now, here is my question. I currently have a 46-gallon bowfront saltwater tank. I currently have one Squareback Anthias (3.5") and five various Damsels. <Yikes.... crowded already psychologically> I have a small amount of live rock in the tank and will be adding more shortly. I am interested in getting a dwarf lionfish. If he outgrows the tank, I will start a larger tank (actually, I will move the stuff in the current to the larger tank and then re-start the smaller one), so that should not be an issue. The question should be obvious -- will the lionfish eat the anthias? <Possibly, yes...> I have read varying answers on this topic, but have not found anything decisive on your site. I plan to get a smallish (2-3") dwarf lion, which I hope would be small enough to give the anthias time to grow. <Pseudanthias pleurotaenia/Anthiines period grow quite slowly... Dendrochirus et al. Pteroines... not so with much feeding...> Also, I would love to hear some suggestions on other compatible tankmates given this setup. Thank you, in advance, for your help! -Marty <Yikes... the list of possibilities is vast... Best for you to continue your quest by reading... checking your potentials with others, generating (ultimately) your own opinions. Bob Fenner>
Hawaiian Bicolor Anthias... comp. 10/8/06 I recently added 4 Bicolor Anthias to a 150 G reef tank. All fish were happy and healthy in the QT. Now in the tank I have lost 1 and the other 2 have bitten tail fins. <Mmm, by whom?> One fish is perfectly fine. The only other inhabitants are a 4" Siganus (Lo) vulpinis and a very happy Vanderbilt Chromis. I have never seen any aggression from the Foxface. Is this an interspecies <intra-species> (Anthias) issue? <Might be... just one male here? Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthicompfaqs.htm and the linked files above where you lead yourself. If there's enough "cover" (rock piling) and only one alpha male, you should have been fine... The Chromis might be causing trouble when you're not observing. Bob Fenner> Thanks as always
Flasher Wrasses and Anthiines - 10/03/06 Would Blue Flasher or Carpenter Flashers make suitable tank mates for my Bicolor Anthias? <<I think they would, yes>> Tank is 150 G. I'd like to add 1 male and 2 females. <<Should be fine, though you may want to consider adding an additional female (1 male to 3 females) to spread the interspecific aggression a bit more thinly>> Thanks, Ken Kristofick <<Quite welcome. Eric Russell>> Chromis, Anthiine Compatibility - 05/05/06 Hi there WWM crew, <<Hello JoÃ£o >> I'm setting a 200 US gallon tank + 75 G sump and 27 G refugium (upgrading from a 55 G reef). <<Exciting times, eh?>> I'm planning on having 2 (mini) schools. One of Chromis viridis (5 or 7) and one of Pseudanthias squamipinnis or bicolor (4 or 5). <<Let me recommend the lyretails (P. squamipinnis)...quite hardy and very beautiful>> I've been reading that, as time goes by, the Chromis start to attack and ultimately kill each other when defining their hierarchy and tend to reduce their number down to 1 or 2. <<Mmm, I've kept groups of three for years at a time...don't think five or seven in a tank your size would be an issue>> People don't seem to be able to keep a group for more than a few months to 1, 1-1/2 years. Is that a fact? <<Not that I am aware...have seen tanks with five or more that fared quite well>> And what about their compatibility with the Anthias? <<Won't be a problem>> Looking forward to hearing your reply. Kind regards, JoÃ£o <<Cheers my friend, EricR>>
Cyano/control, adding sand and an Anthias 2/2/06 Hi crew! I love your site and visit it daily... just to make sure there is nothing I have missed. Keep up the great work! I am currently in the need of some advice, however. Tank specs as follows: 50 gallon, 20H x 18W x 48L 65lbs live rock 4 x 65 watt PC (two actinics, two 10K daylight) Ammonia/nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 10ppm PH - 8.3 at night SPG - 1.025 Calcium - 410 Alk - 4 MEQ (should this be higher?) <Mmm, no. This is right about right: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2002/chemistry.htm> This tank is a mini reef that has been up and running for 3 years. Mostly soft corals...leathers, mushrooms, zoos, button polyps, xenia, star polyps, and a couple of impulse LPS...one hammer and one open brain. The livestock is well and healthy...with most of the inhabitants doubling within the past year. The tank had been fine for the first 2 years it was set up...went through the initial diatom bloom that went away as the tank settled....and I never saw any other algal blooms....until now. lol I have what looks to be hair algae, but it comes off in clumps and feels slimy. I'm still confused as to what kind it is, and I've searched pics posted on here and still cannot ID it. The guy at the LFS told me it was probably due to high phosphates from my tap water. So I bought a tap water filter (all really I can afford at the moment) and some Ultra life Slime remover (ever heard of this?). <... yes, and not advised> I added the slime remover for a day, performed a 10gal water change in which I proceeded to scrub the algae off MOST of the live rock. I thought I had gotten it all, things were well in the world. However a few weeks ago....I upgraded my lighting to what is stated above. It used to be only 2 65 watt 50/50 PCs. And now the algae is back with a vengeance!! <Yes... just "recycled" the nutrients...> I'm assuming that I'm still getting phosphates in my water, and the light fueled another bloom? <In part, likely> I currently have no space for a sump or refugium, and run a hang on back Aqua C Remora and a millennium filter in which the media has been replaced with Chemi pure and PolyFilter. I do 5 gallon weekly changes...and I really have no qualms over brushing the algae off the rock again. I kind of enjoy killing off the buggers. I have also read that live rock loses it's buffering capacity and some of it should be replaced periodically? <Yes... posted on WWM> I've had the same live rock for 3 years....would this be a smart move for me? <Yes> I'm also thinking of adding more sand to my display, but have read conflicting ways on how to do it. I've read that you should do half first, and once that establishes, the other half. <One approach... again, posted> I read somewhere else that you should not cover the existing layer of sand. Since I would have to do it with my livestock STILL in the tank....would this be feasible, or just leave the 1inch I currently have alone? <I would add more... either slowly "sprinkling" on top of the existing, mixing in, or scooting old to the side, adding new there> Well...I'm not done yet!! I have my heart set on a Starburst Anthias. Current fish stock includes, 2 black clowns who are so busy trying to decide who will be the male/female that they take no interest in anyone else in the tank. One canary wrasse who is wrapped up in its own reflection, one bicolor blenny who on occasion munches on the aforementioned algae, and one rusty angel who is king or queen of the tank. There lies my concern. This fish hasn't bullied any of the other tank mates....but it is pretty boisterous come feeding time. I was thinking I could add the Anthias with about 3 Chromis to act as dither fish, in case the angel decides he wants to reign supreme. I haven't added any fish in a year....so I'm a tad concerned before I spend $40 on this Anthias. ::sigh:: But the angel is my favorite. Any thoughts or suggestions? <Will likely mix, though hide in this setting> I also have my heart set on a clam...and from what I've read, the lowest light requiring species is the T. squamosa. Would I be able to maintain one with my current light set up, once the algae problem has been resolved? <Likely, yes> That's another reason why I wanted to add more sand, I read they prefer the sandy bottom of the tank. Also...would I need to supply phytoplankton? <... I would> Again I hear conflicting info....yes they need it, no the light is all they need. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Sorry this has been so long and excruciating....I look forward to your reply. Thanks, Karina <Take your time... and enjoy the process/es... Bob Fenner>
Compatibility: Anthias, Tangs, etc. 8/9/05 Hey Crew! :-) <Jenn> I had a couple of questions on compatibility. First off, my tank will be 225-gallons with a large sump and a "sensible" amount of live rock. Not into the "rock wall" thing some aquarists have going, I like more of a loosely packed "tunnel-ly cave" idea. <Okay> First questions relate to Anthias. I'd like to have several in my tank as a focal point. Rather than one individual of many types of fishes, I'd like to play around with a few species, and keep them in pairs or schools. For Anthias, I was wondering what a comfortable number would be for a school, considering the space? <Depending on the species... a trio to a dozen or more> Other fishes would be gobies, tangs, a pair of clowns, and perhaps some Genicanthus sp. angels. Also, WILL the Anthias school in the aquarium?? <Most species, yes... some are not schoolers> Lastly (relating to Anthias) in a tank this size would two species co-habitate as they do on the reef? <Could> If so, then which two species might I have the best luck with? <Many choices... best to use WWM, fishbase.org and pick out two that you can get, that are found in the same geographic area, habitat...> If not, then how many MALES of one species are likely to establish themselves in a tank this size without encroaching on one another's' territory? <One of each species> Okay second batch relates to tangs. I know the general consensus is one tang per species per tank. But lately I've happened across several tanks with 2 or more Acanthurus tangs in them, not to mention other species of tangs... and I've seen SEVERAL tanks with two to three Zebrasoma sp. Now, aside from the fact that this is impossible (hehe) how is it best/safely accomplished? <Adding all at once, when small, and/or adding new ones that are much smaller...> I'm thinking an achilles and a powder blue... <Not easily kept...> But if I can't be satisfied they'll live long, happy lives, then I'll opt for a regal instead of the powder blue and go that route. So this is more of an exploratory question, as I'm wondering how so many other people do it successfully. :-) Thanks! Jenn <Is done... often... with space, hiding places... enough food. Bob Fenner> Anthias Hi guys, have an Anthias compatibility question. I have a large peaceful reef tank (360 gallons) that has 5 Anthias in it (one mail, 4 females). They are the square box type. I'm wondering if Anthias are territorial to other species of Anthias? <Generally, yes, but depends on species.> In other words, can I put another male and several females of another species like lyretail, bi-color, Bartlett's or something to vary it up a bit more. <Probably not with this group.> The tank is pretty lightly populated so stocking capacity isn't the issue - its whether or not they will get along in a 8ft tank. Thanks, Jim <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
-Compatibility follow-up- I wrote a few days ago about the possibility of putting a Genicanthus angel into a 90 gallon tank. You discouraged me (moderately) from doing this, which was more or less how I viewed things before I wrote you. I've decided to pass on the angel and now I'm contemplating a new possible alpha species, a male lyretail Anthias. <ok> The tank is just being set up and will be a reef system with mostly large polyped stony corals-- moved from a smaller aquarium. There is currently no refugium, but I have the space to add a small one and was thinking about doing so rather soon. <Any little bit helps!> Meantime, I work at home and feeding the Anthias several times a day wouldn't really be a problem. <Cool> Three fish-- a flame angel, a twelve-line wrasse, and a royal Gramma are to be moved with the contents of the smaller tank. My plan is to add a radiant wrasse, yellow Coris wrasse and perhaps some sort of blenny after the transfer is complete and the others are settled in, stable. Then, finally, the lyretail. Your opinion of this combo? I know the Lyretails can be aggressive, but other than the flame angel, I'm guessing he won't have much interest in the other species. <You should be fine> Suppose I made the blenny a Midas mimic of the female lyretail. Would you guess this would get much of a reaction out of the male squamipinnis? Would the blenny be inclined to swim with a male, or only the female(s) it mimics? Or perhaps neither in an aquarium environment? <Whoa, good question. I hope that you try it and can relay the experience back to us! I would suspect that they'd much rather hang out w/ the females, but I've never heard of anyone trying it the other way. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks for your time/answers Derek Milne
Anthias - Four Is A Crowd! Hello, I need to know if I could get away with adding a male Lyretail Anthias and 3 or 4 females? My tank is a 125gl AGA, with a 35gl sump ecosystem (lots of Caulerpa and copepods) for filtration 130lb of live rock. Water parameters are good. I run my protein skimmer on cycles. The coral I have are a Foxface and various mushrooms. My fish I have are a mated pair of maroon clownfish (f=4.5/m=2.0), Naso tang (beautifully, inches now) a purple tang (I know, blame my wife (4.5 inches) 5 green Chromis, 4 Talbot damsels all 0.5 to 1 inch, a cleaner shrimp and a mated pair of coral banded shrimp. I am a firm believer in if it isn't broke don't fix it . Tank has been set up for 10 months now. I would like to add a school of some sort, if that is not a good choice do you have any suggestion or should I leave it alone and let it be. <Well, it sounds like you are running a nice system! A lot of people are under the impression that it's desirable to keep Anthias in small groups. Usually, in all but the largest tanks (hundreds of gallons), this type of arrangement will lead to problems. Although found in large groups in the wild, it doesn't always work in captivity (at least, not for extended periods of time). I've seen friends try this, and it seems like they are always looking for "another female" to replace one that died "mysteriously". The only time I saw someone have success with this type of aggregation was in a (deliberately) over-crowded situation. This was neither humane or attractive. The fishes were more concerned with survival than in aggression...If you do try the grouping that you are considering- get them all at one time, and from one source...Quarantine and add them together...Personally, I think that your tank would be over-crowded if you went for a group like this...My call - leave this highly successful tank as it is! Do seek the advice and opinions of others, of course - but that's my two cents worth! Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F>
Anthias [Stocking] Concerns - Hello, wanted to say thank you for all your meticulous research on aquatic life, it's mind boggling sometimes going through it. I recently combined my 2 small coral nano tanks into one larger tank. I actually didn't remove the other tanks, much to my wife's joy, but instead plumbed them with ball valves and PVC to the larger tank- the tanks were a couple years old, a 20 gallon, for around 5 years and a 40 gallon going on 2. I dumped the gravel from the 20 into the 40, put a 150 HQI and 2x65watt actinics, put a SeaSwirl on the return and filled with macro algae- there was a lot of weird stuff in that sand, little shard-like glass needles in my hands, kept the rock in the 20 and used that as a QT for 6 Dispar Anthias. I used a skimmer on the 20, this tank is way too small for them I know- and I was sweating bullets, but I figured better a well established 20 then a new 55, which would have made catching these incredible swimmers impossible. Anyway, I did see a fair amount of activity in the refugium, and the only fish in the now display system where a 3" palette surgeonfish and a full grown scooter dragonet, he's a she, but don't tell my wife that, just upsets her that 'Scooter' might be a girl- yea, we name them, but 3 of our 4 cats are a derivative of 'Kitty', so not real original, but the thought counts. Anyway, I added the dispars, and everything seems alright, they are young, and all females, I know I may have problems long term, and I am prepared to deal with that using the refugium if I have to - catching could be a problem, hehe, but I'll figure it out. I had a good friend get me 6 Banggai cardinals, directly from England, had to pick them up in the box, rush home at 80 mph and put them in the QT, they all made it, little miffed, but ok. I feed the Anthias several times a day, have since day one - a Midas blenny somehow ended up in the display - sneaky little devil, but he seems harmless enough, thinks he's an Anthias - so does the tang now, (Dory) lame huh? Anyway, the display is 180 gallon, 30 gallon LifeReef sump/skimmer, 40 gallon hex refugium, the qt is turned off from the main system but runs on its own little skimmer. The Anthias, Midas blenny and tang all hang out with the stony corals on one side of the tank where the rockwork nearly reaches the surface, the other side of the tank is slightly calmer, a little less bright, more low lying caves and open upper space, I was hoping the cardinals would appreciate that side more, but who knows, anyway- that's it for fish, think this is going to cause me a problem? <Doubtful... they'll all get more brave in time and disperse.> I've actually kept corals for quite some time, but fish is a whole other ball game, they move! Ahh, I'm hoping I'm not overstocking, there's a lot of live food in the tank, and whenever I figure out how to make an autofeeder feed frozen foods, I'll get to go on vacation and see them for real! Till then, thanks and take care. Just getting worried that these two might not mix well in my size system - one is active and the other is kind of slow, one is a greedy pig, one is kind of slow - pretty, but slow - speaking of slow, baby neon gobies - they are just adorable, but painfully slow. So 6 dispar Anthias, 6 Banggai cardinals, 1 palette surgeonfish, 1 scooter dragonet - total water volume is around 240 gallons, total live rock is only perhaps 150 lbs, 100 of which is well established. I have a Rainford's goby that I might put in there, but other than that, no more fish - is this pushing the limit of my system? <No, you're doing fine.> I need to leave room for growth, they are all adolescent at best, but I would prefer not to stress the animals, if this is a bad idea, the cardinals can go in another tank, thanks for the info. <Think you are fine where you are... if you can stop adding fish at this point you'll be in good shape with room for the corals to grow and increase in bioload.> Aaron <Cheers, J -- >
Compatibility of Anthias Bob: Are the various Anthias species compatible? I am interested in having the Dispar and Square Box Anthias together specifically. Also, would they do well with a mated pair of maroon clowns and their host bubble anemone? >> >> No problem with the mix of Anthias if the system is VERY BIG, hundreds of gallon... otherwise the Square Box will be crowding the Dispars IMO, and both will leave the Maroons and their anemone alone. Bob Fenner
Mixing Anthias Just a real quick question.... can you mix
species of Anthias and have them stay happy? say if I had a
Pseudanthias truncatus and I wanted to put a Pseudanthias pleurotaenia
in with him. Would this be a good or a bad thing? Would they be happy
together or would they still need buddies of their own kind? <Most
Anthiines, the subfamily that is the "Fancy Basses" are
shoaling, haremic species (an exception? The Fathead, Sunburst Anthias,
Serranocirrhitus latus)... You can mix different species together...
they're found in "shared" territories in the wild)... but
most do better with more of their own kind in the small systems we call
aquariums. Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/anthiina.htm Bob Fenner>