Lyretail Anthias... comp., sel., sys.   9/27/07
I was thinking off purchasing some lyretail anthias
<Likely Pseudanthias squamipinnis>
for my 72 gallon tank.
Upon doing my homework all seemed to be well as this is the hardiest of the anthias but then I read some questions I found disconcerting about the
fishes attacking each other.
<Mmm, yes... they live in large to very large shoals in their wide geographic range... establish and challenge "pecking orders" and ranging males continuously>
Should I purchase 4 female Anthias for my tank with the assumption one would turn male or is it better to buy 3 females and one male?
<Either way... but definitely only one certain male in a volume of this (small) size>
I plan to QT them for a month
<Mmm, for fishes as these... small, continuous zooplanktivores... a shorter duration, even just a dip/bath and a prayer, may prove more prudent... to forego starvation and its ill-effects>
but will them being in the confined space of a 10 gallon QT tank lead them to aggression?
<Oh yes... and over-stress in general>
And lastly along with the 4 Anthias I have 2 ocellaris clowns, neon goby, blue-green Chromis and plan on getting a flame angel and royal Gramma. Is
this to much for my tank?
<Mmm, is right about some sort of maximum>
I have 100 lbs of live rock and a good skimmer.
Thanks for the help.
Adam
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Wrasse compatibility <Actually sel. to eat/control>, red bugs, <and comp. w/> Anthias    9/11/07 
Hi Crew,
Would you be able to help with the best choice for a small wrasse that likes to eat Acropora red bugs?
<Um, this is not how one deals with red bugs.>
From reading the FAQs it looks like the Six Line is an option, but I've seen them be aggressive and I have a trio of Bartlett's Anthias that I wouldn't want to be harassed. The tank is a 135G reef with 100+ lbs of live rock.
Can you think of a small, red bug eating wrasse (or other fish/invert) that would tend to be less territorial than a Six Line? And do you think I would need more than one bug-eater in this size tank?
<If you have a red bug infestation, you need to treat it with Interceptor. There's no aquarium fish (known to aquarists) that will solve this problem. See here: http://www.ericborneman.com/Tegastes-content/Dorton%20treatment.htm
And maybe here too:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acrodisfaqs.htm>
Thanks,
Tom
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Adding Anthiines/Compatibility Issues – 09/06/07
Hello Crew,
<<Howdy>>
I would like to start keeping Anthias (probably Bartlett's), but I am unsure if there will be compatibility issues with my current livestock. I would appreciate any opinions/advice you have.
<<I’m happy to share>>
Current setup: 150 gallon 3 year old lightly stocked reef, 160 lbs live rock, 2x250watt MH, Euro-Reef RS180, 50 gallon sump w/refugium.
Livestock :
1 Black Cap Basslet
3 Pajama Cardinals
3 Clown Gobies
2 Neon Gobies
1 Pearly Jawfish
1 Ocellaris Clownfish
1 Crocea clam
1 Derasa clam
Various Coral
Thanks for your help.
<<Adding some Anthias shouldn’t be a problem...and Bartlett’s are an excellent choice here. Do be aware they can be quite skittish when first introduced and might jump if startled/chased by other fishes (though I think this is a small concern re your stock list). This usually is not an issue once the Anthiines become established...and placing some plastic eggcrate material over the tank opening(s) for a week or two initially may help to keep them in the water where they belong. Regards, EricR>>

Dwarf Lion/Anthias Compatibility   4/22/07
Hello there.  Thank you, in advance for your help.  I have just spent hours reviewing the information on your site and have learned quite a bit.  I've also spent a fair amount of time over the last few weeks learning about the saltwater aquarium and how to choose compatible tankmates.
<Good>
To provide a little background, I have been running freshwater tanks for approximately two years, including a 55-gallon African cichlid tank which I have had for the past year and a half or so.
Now, here is my question.  I currently have a 46-gallon bowfront saltwater tank.  I currently have one Squareback Anthias (3.5") and five various Damsels.
<Yikes.... crowded already psychologically>
I have a small amount of live rock in the tank and will be adding more shortly.  I am interested in getting a dwarf lionfish.  If he outgrows the tank, I will start a larger tank (actually, I will move the stuff in the current to the larger tank and then re-start the smaller one), so that should not be an issue.  The question should be obvious -- will the lionfish eat the anthias?
<Possibly, yes...>
I have read varying answers on this topic, but have not found anything decisive on your site.  I plan to get a smallish (2-3") dwarf lion, which I hope would be small enough to give the anthias time to grow.
<Pseudanthias pleurotaenia/Anthiines period grow quite slowly... Dendrochirus et al. Pteroines... not so with much feeding...>
Also, I would love to hear some suggestions on other compatible tankmates given this setup.
Thank you, in advance, for your help!
-Marty
<Yikes... the list of possibilities is vast... Best for you to continue your quest by reading... checking your potentials with others, generating (ultimately) your own opinions. Bob Fenner>

Hawaiian Bicolor Anthias... comp.   10/8/06
I recently added 4 Bicolor Anthias to a 150 G reef tank. All fish were happy and healthy in the QT. Now in the tank I have lost 1 and the other 2 have bitten tail fins.
<Mmm, by whom?>
One fish is perfectly fine. The only other inhabitants are a 4" Siganus (Lo) vulpinis and a very happy Vanderbilt Chromis. I have never seen any aggression from the Foxface. Is this an interspecies <intra-species> (Anthias) issue?
<Might be... just one male here? Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anthicompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above where you lead yourself. If there's enough "cover" (rock piling) and only one alpha male, you should have been fine... The Chromis might be causing trouble when you're not observing. Bob Fenner>
Thanks as always

Flasher Wrasses and Anthiines - 10/03/06
Would Blue Flasher or Carpenter Flashers make suitable tank mates for my Bicolor Anthias?
<<I think they would, yes>>
Tank is 150 G. I'd like to add 1 male and 2 females.
<<Should be fine, though you may want to consider adding an additional female (1 male to 3 females) to spread the interspecific aggression a bit more thinly>>
Thanks,
Ken Kristofick
<<Quite welcome.  Eric Russell>>

Chromis, Anthiine Compatibility - 05/05/06
Hi there WWM crew,
<<Hello João >>
I'm setting a 200 US gallon tank + 75 G sump and 27 G refugium (upgrading from a 55 G reef).
<<Exciting times, eh?>>
I’m planning on having 2 (mini) schools.  One of Chromis viridis (5 or 7) and one of Pseudanthias squamipinnis or bicolor (4 or 5).
<<Let me recommend the lyretails (P. squamipinnis)...quite hardy and very beautiful>>
I’ve been reading that, as time goes by, the Chromis start to attack and ultimately kill each other when defining their hierarchy and tend to reduce their number down to 1 or 2.
<<Mmm, I've kept groups of three for years at a time...don't think five or seven in a tank your size would be an issue>>
People don’t seem to be able to keep a group for more than a few months to 1, 1-1/2 years.  Is that a fact?
<<Not that I am aware...have seen tanks with five or more that fared quite well>>
And what about their compatibility with the Anthias?
<<Won't be a problem>>
Looking forward to hearing your reply.
Kind regards,
João
<<Cheers my friend, EricR>>

Cyano/control, adding sand and an Anthias   2/2/06
Hi crew!  I love your site and visit it daily... just to make sure there is nothing I have missed.  Keep up the great work!  I am currently in the need
of some advice, however.  Tank specs as follows:
50 gallon, 20H x 18W x 48L
65lbs live rock
4 x 65 watt PC (two actinics, two 10K daylight)
Ammonia/nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10ppm
PH - 8.3 at night
SPG - 1.025
Calcium - 410
Alk - 4 MEQ (should this be higher?)
<Mmm, no. This is right about right: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2002/chemistry.htm>
This tank is a mini reef that has been up and running for 3 years.  Mostly soft corals...leathers, mushrooms, zoos, button polyps, xenia, star polyps,
and a couple of impulse LPS...one hammer and one open brain.  The livestock is well and healthy...with most of the inhabitants doubling within the past
year.  The tank had been fine for the first 2 years it was set up...went through the initial diatom bloom that went away as the tank settled....and I
never saw any other algal blooms....until now.  lol I have what looks to be hair algae, but it comes off in clumps and feels
slimy.  I'm still confused as to what kind it is, and I've searched pics posted on here and still cannot ID it.  The guy at the LFS told me it was
probably due to high phosphates from my tap water.  So I bought a tap water filter  (all really I can afford at the moment) and some Ultra life Slime
remover (ever heard of this?).
<... yes, and not advised>
I added the slime remover for a day, performed a 10gal water change in which I proceeded to scrub the algae off
MOST of the live rock.  I thought I had gotten it all, things were well in the world.  However a few weeks ago....I upgraded my lighting to what is
stated above.  It used to be only 2 65 watt 50/50 PCs.  And now the algae is back with a vengeance!!
<Yes... just "recycled" the nutrients...>
I'm assuming that I'm still getting phosphates in my water, and the light fueled another bloom?
<In part, likely>
I currently have no space for a sump or refugium, and run a hang on back Aqua C Remora and a millennium filter in which the media has been replaced with Chemi pure and PolyFilter.
I do 5 gallon weekly changes...and I really have no qualms over brushing the algae off the rock again.  I kind of enjoy killing off the buggers.  I have
also read that live rock loses it's buffering capacity and some of it should be replaced periodically?  
<Yes... posted on WWM>
I've had the same live rock for 3 years....would this be a smart move for me?
<Yes>
I'm also thinking of adding more sand to my display, but have read conflicting ways on how to do it.  I've read that you should do half first, and once that establishes, the other half.
<One approach... again, posted>
  I read somewhere else that you should not cover the existing layer of sand.  Since I would have to do it with my livestock STILL in the tank....would this be
feasible, or just leave the 1inch I currently have alone?
<I would add more... either slowly "sprinkling" on top of the existing, mixing in, or scooting old to the side, adding new there>
Well...I'm not done yet!!  I have my heart set on a Starburst Anthias. Current fish stock includes, 2 black clowns who are so busy trying to decide
who will be the male/female that they take no interest in anyone else in the tank.  One canary wrasse who is wrapped up in its own reflection, one
bicolor blenny who on occasion munches on the aforementioned algae, and one rusty angel who is king or queen of the tank.  There lies my concern.  This
fish hasn't bullied any of the other tank mates....but it is pretty boisterous come feeding time.  I was thinking I could add the Anthias with
about 3 Chromis to act as dither fish, in case the angel decides he wants to reign supreme.  I haven't added any fish in a year....so I'm a tad concerned
before I spend $40 on this Anthias.  ::sigh:: But the angel is my favorite.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
<Will likely mix, though hide in this setting>
I also have my heart set on a clam...and from what I've read, the lowest light requiring species is the T. squamosa.
Would I be able to maintain one with my current light set up, once the algae problem has been resolved?  
<Likely, yes>
That's another reason why I wanted to add more sand, I read they prefer the sandy bottom of the tank.  Also...would I need to supply phytoplankton?
<... I would>
Again I hear conflicting info....yes they need it, no the light is all they need.  Any help you could provide would be greatly
appreciated.  Sorry this has been so long and excruciating....I look forward to your reply.
Thanks, Karina
<Take your time... and enjoy the process/es... Bob Fenner>

Compatibility: Anthias, Tangs, etc. 8/9/05
Hey Crew! :-)
<Jenn>
I had a couple of questions on compatibility.  First off, my tank will be 225-gallons with a large sump and a "sensible" amount of live rock.  Not
into the "rock wall" thing some aquarists have going, I like more of a loosely packed "tunnel-ly cave" idea.
<Okay>
First questions relate to Anthias.  I'd like to have several in my tank as a focal point.  Rather than one individual of many types of fishes, I'd like
to play around with a few species, and keep them in pairs or schools.  For Anthias, I was wondering what a comfortable number would be for a school,
considering the space?  
<Depending on the species... a trio to a dozen or more>
Other fishes would be gobies, tangs, a pair of clowns, and perhaps some Genicanthus sp. angels.  Also, WILL the Anthias school in the aquarium??  
<Most species, yes... some are not schoolers>
Lastly (relating to Anthias) in a tank this size would two species co-habitate as they do on the reef?
<Could>
If so, then which two species might I have the best luck with?
<Many choices... best to use WWM, fishbase.org and pick out two that you can get, that are found in the same geographic area, habitat...>
If not, then how many MALES of one species are likely to establish themselves in a tank this size without encroaching on one another's' territory?
<One of each species>
Okay second batch relates to tangs.  I know the general consensus is one tang per species per tank.  But lately I've happened across several tanks
with 2 or more Acanthurus tangs in them, not to mention other species of tangs... and I've seen SEVERAL tanks with two to three Zebrasoma sp.  Now,
aside from the fact that this is impossible (hehe) how is it best/safely accomplished?
<Adding all at once, when small, and/or adding new ones that are much smaller...>
I'm thinking an achilles and a powder blue...
<Not easily kept...>
But if I can't be satisfied they'll live long, happy lives, then I'll opt for a regal instead of the powder blue and go that route.  So this is more of an
exploratory question, as I'm wondering how so many other people do it successfully. :-)
Thanks!
Jenn
<Is done... often... with space, hiding places... enough food. Bob Fenner>

Anthias
Hi guys, have an Anthias compatibility question. I have a large peaceful reef tank (360 gallons) that has 5 Anthias in it (one mail, 4 females). They are the square box type. I'm wondering if Anthias are territorial to other species of Anthias?
<Generally, yes, but depends on species.>
In other words, can I put another male and several females of another species like lyretail, bi-color, Bartlett's or something to vary it up a bit more.
<Probably not with this group.>
The tank is pretty lightly populated so stocking capacity isn't the issue - its whether or not they will get along in a 8ft tank. Thanks, Jim
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

-Compatibility follow-up-
I wrote a few days ago about the possibility of putting a Genicanthus angel into a 90 gallon tank.  You discouraged me (moderately) from doing this, which was more or less how I viewed things before I wrote you.  I've decided to pass on the angel and now I'm contemplating a new possible alpha species, a male lyretail Anthias. <ok>
The tank is just being set up and will be a reef system with mostly large polyped stony corals-- moved from a smaller aquarium. There is currently no refugium, but I have the space to add a small one and was thinking about doing so rather soon. <Any little bit helps!> Meantime, I work at home and feeding the Anthias several times a day wouldn't really be a problem. <Cool>
Three fish-- a flame angel, a twelve-line wrasse, and a royal Gramma are to be moved with the contents of the smaller tank.  My plan is to add a radiant wrasse, yellow Coris wrasse and perhaps some sort of blenny after the transfer is complete and the others are settled in, stable.  Then, finally, the lyretail.  
Your opinion of this combo? I know the Lyretails can be aggressive, but other than the flame angel, I'm guessing he won't have much interest in the other species. <You should be fine> Suppose I made the blenny a Midas mimic of the female lyretail.  Would you guess this would get much of a reaction out of the male squamipinnis? Would the blenny be inclined to swim with a male, or only the female(s) it mimics? Or perhaps neither in an aquarium environment? <Whoa, good question. I hope that you try it and can relay the experience back to us! I would suspect that they'd much rather hang out w/ the females, but I've never heard of anyone trying it the other way. Good luck! -Kevin>
Thanks for your time/answers
Derek Milne

Anthias - Four Is A Crowd!
Hello, I need to know if I could get away with adding a male Lyretail Anthias and 3 or 4 females? My tank is a 125gl AGA, with a 35gl sump ecosystem (lots of Caulerpa and copepods) for filtration 130lb of live rock. Water parameters are good. I run my protein skimmer on cycles. The coral I have are a Foxface and various mushrooms. My fish I have are a mated pair of maroon clownfish (f=4.5/m=2.0), Naso tang (beautifully, inches now) a purple tang (I know, blame my wife (4.5 inches) 5 green Chromis, 4 Talbot damsels all 0.5 to 1 inch, a cleaner shrimp and a mated pair of coral banded shrimp. I am a firm  believer in if it isn't broke don't fix it . Tank has been set up for 10 months now. I would like to add a school of some sort, if that is not a good choice do you have any suggestion or should I leave it alone and let it be.
<Well, it sounds like you are running a nice system! A lot of people are under the impression that it's desirable to keep Anthias in small groups. Usually, in all but the largest tanks (hundreds of gallons), this type of arrangement will lead to problems. Although found in large groups in the wild, it doesn't always work in captivity (at least, not for extended periods of time). I've seen friends try this, and it seems like they are always looking for "another female" to replace one that died "mysteriously". The only time I saw someone have success with this type of aggregation was in a (deliberately) over-crowded situation. This was neither humane or attractive. The fishes were more concerned with survival than in aggression...If you do try the grouping that you are considering- get them all at one time, and from one source...Quarantine and add them together...Personally, I think that your tank would be over-crowded if you went for a group like this...My call - leave this highly successful tank as it is! Do seek the advice and opinions of others, of course - but that's my two cents worth! Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F>