Welcome To the World of Versatility!

By Joshua McMillen 

It seems to me that in this hobby there are few guarantees, and perhaps that is for the better.  We will never be short on methods to improve or problems to solve.  I believe that aside from the beauty of that which we keep, this is one of its greatest attractions. 

In this regard, we must be able to change, expand or adapt our systems to keep up lest our ideas be placed on a shelf until we can afford to implement them.  I would not be surprised to find this as a leading cause in the lack of improvements being made with our home systems.  As long as we brood on ideas, and we do brood, we can only hold onto so many before they are replaced by the constant influx of new ones.  In this article I hope to make at least one aspect of system design a little easier to implement, as well as completely rearrange at our leisure.

In system planning and setup, I feel there is but one major limiting factor toward this end: Plumbing. More specifically, sumps.  Upgrading our sump related equipment, integrating refugia, and any other number of desired changes to them is limited by the much needed system of baffles we employ.

Baffles, as we know, are the wall construction within the sump that moderate and direct the flow of water so as to force air bubbles to the surface, and form a pathway through the desired filtration on its way to the return pump.  Once fixed in place, however, we must either make changes as their construction allows, or remove them completely and recreate them.  Neither of these can be considered at our leisure.

Traditionally, these baffles are siliconed in place, presenting two problems.  First, we must match the materials being used (acrylic to acrylic, glass to glass, Etc.) and of course the obvious, once installed they cannot be moved. As an alternative, I propose a pressure locked/slip fit baffle system, which when properly installed is as effective as a fixed installation, while providing easy manipulation to incorporate a larger skimmer, refugium, pump, Etc.

For ease of explanation here, I am going to use an old glass aquarium as the sump vessel.  Though these can be installed in virtually any vessel that we use, it would change their construction slightly with the shape of each as you will soon understand. 

 

Materials and Tools Needed

1 sheet of ¼” Lucite (or any brand of acrylic sheet) measuring 24”x48”.  Try  your local home improvement warehouse or check the yellow pages under "Plastic Sheet, Rod and Tube". 2 rolls of Marine/Outdoor EPDM foam rubber weather stripping.  Be sure to choose EPDM.  Other materials may deteriorate in water. 1 sump.  Standard glass aquariums work great and every tried and true fish geek has at least one to spare! Power saw.  A saber saw is used in this article, but table saws are even better. Screwdriver, chisel or scraper and sandpaper. The materials listed above are enough for approximately 6-8 baffles, depending on size.

 

Step 1: Measure

In measuring for the width of your baffles, it is important to remember that you will be measuring the inside width of your sump.  This is key as the pressure lock depends on it.  Once you have your inside measure (for our example 11 3/4”), you will simply need to subtract ¼” to obtain the baffle width (thus 11 ½”).  This leaves a clearance of 1/8” on either side of the baffle.  Next, you will need to determine the height of the baffle.  There is no hard set rule on this as the entire operation of this system is open to alteration and adjustment.  Again, for ease of explanation, we are merely taming flow in this example.  When determining the height, measure from the bottom of the sump (yes, even for the “under flows”) as this will serve an important safety precaution during operation.

The baffle in the picture has been properly measured and cut.  The space shown will be filled by the seal.

 

Step 2: Cut

Above Left:  Although table and panel saws are necessary for all-acrylic fabrication, a saber saw does a fine job for this type of project.  Above Right:  Fine tooth blades tend to overheat and melt the Lucite, sometimes actually welding the two pieces back together.  Be sure to wear safety glasses! Below Left:  An "underflow" baffle with center cut out to leave supporting legs on each side.  Below Right:  Cleaning up the cut edge with a scredriver and then sand paper.

Cutting the Lucite will likely take some experimenting so be sure to take a few practice runs on a scrap section.  Though the label states to use a fine tooth blade, I found it to be much easier with rough, wood cutting blades.  This seemed to cut wide enough to prevent the edges from melting back together as the blade passed.  The cutting of the baffles is fairly straight forward with one exception; the under flows.  Once the initial rectangle has been cut, it will be necessary to cut an additional 1”x9” section (centered) out of the bottom edge.  This opening serves two functions.  It, of course, forces water to pass under the baffle, while the resultant “legs” on each side provide support.  This ensures that directional flow is always maintained, since the baffle cannot inadvertently drop or be pressed into the bottom of the sump.  

Step 3: Apply EPDM

Left:  Carefully applying the EPDM strip to the edge of the baffle.  Right:  A bottom sealing baffle and under-flow baffle are shown.

This is the final step in construction of the baffle itself.  Simply put, it’s like using a sticker.  For the over flow walls you will be covering three sides; left, right and bottom.  The left and right sides should be covered from top to bottom and the excess cut flush at these edges.  The bottom should be covered from left to right, extended beyond the baffle, and cut off flush with the outside edge of the side strips.  This creates a full seal across the bottom eliminating any gaps at the corners. The under flow walls only need to be covered on the left and right sides, in the same manner.  The EPDM strips will add a ¼” to each side of the baffle making them wider than the sump vessel.  When installing the baffle, the compression against these will create the pressure lock. This will insure hold and create a water-tight seal for proper function.

Step 4:  Install and Test

Installation is a snap.  Using a small amount of water, wet the inside surface of the sump as well as the EPDM strips.  Left: Angle the baffle into the desired position.  While holding one end stationary, simply tap the other end into place.   Right:  Baffles in place!

 

Now my friends, you are finished. What you are left with is a fully functional yet extremely versatile system of baffles.  Make it what you will, removal and adjustment take only minutes.  Wonder if a refugium might be useful? Try it! Want that bigger skimmer you’ve been drooling over? Buy it!  It is now truly up to you!

A completed baffle system that can be easily rearranged anytime the owner desires!

Pressure Locking Sump Baffles 4/7/08
Hello Crew,
<Hello Ian.>
I am ever so grateful for the site, it is always the first resource I turn to.
<Great to hear!>
I would like to see if any of you had gotten feedback or had tried Josh McMillen's pressure locking sump baffle DIY project. I recently attempted,
and found it near impossible to "tap" the baffles inplace without displacing the EPDM. Argh! Would love to hear about other experiences that may cast light on my predicament. Thanks for everything!
-Ian
<First of all, I love this method and refer people to it quite frequently. I encourage anyone that is the slightest bit mechanically inclined to DIY a sump and this is by far the easiest and most cost effective method for a nice, finished looking sump. The EPDM being displaced can be a problem. Make sure the edge you are adhering the foam to is clean. Sometimes there can be oils from your hands or even residue from the saw blade used to cut the acrylic. A quick wipe down with denatured alcohol will solve this and help the EPDM stick to the acrylic. Next, be sure to lubricate between the EPDM and the glass to keep it from sticking and ripping off the foam. A little water will do the trick, if you have some water based lubricant you can use this also. It will wash off easily enough once you are done. If none of the above works you may have the acrylic cut too tight and need to narrow it a bit at a time until you get just the right fit. I have included the link below for the benefit of those that have not seen it. Welcome, I hope this helps you with your issue, Scott V.>

EPDM used in the Article by Joshua McMillen 2/23/08
Hello from Michigan.
<Hello from wet California.>
Where can I find EPDM from Joshua’s article regarding baffles. I have looked around the net but I want to be sure I am getting the right stuff. Internet sale would be great. By the way thank you Scott V for the very fast response to my baffle question!!!
<You’re very welcome. The EPDM can be found at just about any local hardware store. If you wish to buy online, Mcmaster.com has it for a little over $12 for a 50 foot roll. Part no. 93725K72. Have fun, Scott V.>

Baffle Adhesion 12/31/07
Hey guys,
<And gals, hello Bill.>
Yes I have looked around on your site and everywhere but there are just too many different answers to this. I thought I had it figured out till now. My question is simply. I have a 20g glass aquarium that I am making into a sump. Simple question is what glue do you use??? If it is a glass aquarium then use glass baffles not acrylic as it will expand and can possibly break your tank.
<I wouldn’t worry about breaking the tank, just bonding the acrylic to glass if you plan to have water levels vary much from compartment to compartment.>
Is this true and also silicone will not adhere to the acrylic baffles to glass.
<It will for the simple purpose of a baffle, not a tank divider.>
Use glass for glass and acrylic for acrylic. Use silicone for glass and Weld-on for acrylic.
<For the strongest in each respective material, yes.>
Someone else said that the use of Marine Goop was better than 100% silicone for glass.
<No.>
Simply question and so many different answers. I just want to do it right the first time.
Thanks
Bill
<If you are looking to silicone in acrylic baffles in the glass tank just as a bubble trap, you will be fine. If you want to divide the tank and have a separate refugium that will have a significantly higher water level than the rest of the sump, use glass and silicone. There is an option of moveable baffles in the link below. Welcome, have fun with the project, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm

Pressure Locking Baffles For Sump Idea 7/6/07
Dear WWM:
Excellent article from Joshua on his method for sump construction.
Question - I found "EPDM Foam Rubber Weather Stripping for Doors & Windows". Is this the same stuff as "EPDM Marine & Outdoor Foam Rubber" mentioned in the article?
<Mmmm, possibly not...>
Don't know if the EPDM I found could be harmful as compared to the article's suggestion.
Thank you!
John
<A good idea to contact the manufacturer and ask... the EPDM itself should be safe/chemically inert, but there may be other materials involved (adhesives, coatings...) that you want to avoid. Bob Fenner>

Acrylic Thickness for Pressure-Lock Baffles - 03/31/07
Hello Crew,
<<Jeremy>>
I have a question about this article.      
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
Does the Lucite or acrylic have to be 1/4-inch thick?
<<Hmmm...>>
Could thinner acrylic work or would the weather stripping not hold?
<<I think the bigger issue is whether or not the thinner acrylic will "bow" too much under the pressure of the friction fit involved with this method.  If the acrylic does not prove to be too flimsy, the weather-stripping will probably hold long enough to put the baffles in place.  It is worth trying anyway...in my opinion>>
Thanks,
Jeremy
<<Happy to share.  EricR>>

Adhesive On EPDM Foam Rubber - 04/17/2006
Hello Crew!
<Hello Andy!>
Thanks for such an awesome resource. My question pertains to an article I read on your website regarding DIY sumps, particularly the way the baffles were set in the sump. Here's the link for reference:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
<Hey, I wrote that!>
I just wanted to double check on the EPDM foam rubber weather stripping used in the article. Is the adhesive on the foam safe for all types of marine life such as corals and other inverts?
<Yep! The same stuff they put on the foam padding to keep pumps from vibrating against your sump.>
If so, I will definitely be using this method, but I was just curious if there had been any discussion on the subject.
<Hmm...no discussions I know of...except this one! Thank you for reading my article, hope you found it useful.>
Thanks,
Andy
<Quite welcome. - Josh>

Glass Pressure-Locking Sump Baffles?   4/4/07
Is Josh in the house? Questions on Glass Baffles...
Hi,
<Hello Laura.>
I read your article regarding the Pressure Locking Sump Baffles and found it very interesting!  
<Laura this article was actually written by another crew-member; Josh McMillen (yes...there are more than one of us). Unfortunately Josh is not a participating member at the moment so he could not answer you personally. I'll be able to answer your questions though and I will attempt to track Josh down to see if he wants to/can add anything.>
I just have a couple quick, questions though.
<No problem.>
Will this
work if I am using a glass tank and glass baffles, or will the glass baffles
be too heavy for this to hold?
<You could use glass baffles, however for your average hobbyist, sheets of acrylic are probably easier to attain and cut.  Most glass offered to your average hobbyist is tempered and difficult to impossible to cut. My inclination is that Josh recommended acrylic because it makes for a much easier DIY project.  The only way you would easily be able to get the properly sized glass (unless you are familiar with glass/works) is from a glass shop...which would defeat the purpose of a DIY project for most.>
Also, will this method work for a high water
flow such as 1000gph?
<If done properly; yes, there are many aquariums in which 1000gph is not very high at all.>
Thanks so much for your help, and this wonderful
article!
<Again not my article...but I will attempt to CC the author.>
Laura
<Adam J.>